Window opening in wooden house has always been one of the most complex construction units. With the advent of PVC windows, to the problems caused by shrinkage processes, an extensive list of new restrictions and requirements associated with the universal design of metal-plastic profiles was added. In this connection, installing plastic windows in a wooden house with your own hands should be done only after a thorough study of all the features of this technology.
Let us immediately emphasize that the principle of fastening PVC windows is fundamentally different from the method of installing classic wooden frames, so even experienced craftsmen who have not had experience in this area of construction work are advisable to study the relevant documentation and technological advice from window manufacturers.
You will find general information about the technology for installing plastic windows in our article, and today we will give step by step instructions for self-installation.
When preparing to install a plastic window yourself, you should pay attention Special attention preparation of tools and materials. Considering that in most cases, installation of windows in wooden houses is carried out on-site (dacha, Vacation home etc.), the absence of one specific key or device can create considerable problems.
Let's look at the main groups of tools that are needed to properly install a window structure.
From a mechanical point of view, plastic windows have a far from standard design, so the usual set home handyman will clearly not be enough.
Below is a list of mechanical tools required for efficient work with PVC profile:
Please note that a regular hacksaw may not be enough for cutting expansion profiles, since some types of extensions can be reinforced with metal. Cut this profile hand saw, of course, it is possible, but you will have to spend a lot more time on each detail.
Taking into account the above, it would be useful to supplement the above list with a mechanized version of the saw (a jigsaw or a circular saw), as well as devices for fixation (clamps).
It is advisable to take a clamp with a wide grip, since they may be needed not only for securing materials during cutting, but also for attaching expansion profiles.
An integral part of the technology for assembling metal-plastic windows is sealing using sealing tapes and polymerizable substances.
When installing PVC profiles with your own hands, you can use sprayers supplied with cylinders with polyurethane foam, but for professional work it is advisable to purchase a separate device, which will significantly reduce the cost of consumables.
We would like to separately emphasize that, in addition to polyurethane foam, when installing windows made of polyvinyl chloride, silicone is often used, which is extremely difficult to squeeze out of the tube without a special “gun”.
Any polymer sealant - and polyurethane foam is no exception - in the case of constant contact with outside air and moisture is destroyed quite quickly. To slow down this process, internal and external surfaces installation gaps must be protected with waterproofing (installed on internal surfaces, such protection is called “vapor barrier”).
This can be done either using special tape or through the application of special pastes (putties).
Depending on what type of waterproofing is preferred, the basic list of tools must be supplemented with scissors or a set of spatulas.
After the PVC window has been purchased and delivered, it is imperative to check the completeness and compliance of the actual dimensions with the parameters specified in the order.
Before starting a technical description of the work on self-installation of windows, we list the basic terms used to refer to the elements of their design:
As practice shows, window handles and other auxiliary fittings are often lost during transportation.
If the order included mosquito net– it is necessary to check the availability of fasteners for its installation.
In addition to completeness, the dimensions of the window and casing are checked for compliance. The main test criterion is simple - the installation gap should be no more than 2 cm (but not less than 5 mm!). It must be taken into account that when comparing linear dimensions, the above tolerances are multiplied by two. That is, if the internal width of the casing, for example, is 200 cm, then the total width of the frame should be no more than 200-2*2=196 cm.
In cases where the window was purchased with the expectation of adding extensions, measurements are made taking into account the mutual overlap of the locks.
Next, you need to select fastening pins, the length of which should be such that when fully screwed in, they do not pierce through the casing.
This requirement is relevant only for those cases when the window installation is carried out with drilling of the profile. However, it should be remembered that this installation method is a backup and is used only in cases where the window is mounted in a frame consisting only of embedded timber.
The main method of fixing a PVC window in an opening is installation on anchor plates, the purchase of which should also be included in the list of preparatory work.
The next stage of preparation for installation is disassembling the factory delivery kit. Despite the fact that window installation can be done without dismantling the double-glazed windows, we recommend using the option with complete disassembly, since it is much easier to install and center a light frame than a massive and inconvenient window unit to manipulate.
Below are step-by-step instructions for the disassembly and preparation process:
We would like to highlight the following nuances:
There are two different ways PVC installations do-it-yourself windows: with and without disassembling the window unit.
This difference is due to two factors: the window mounting scheme and the weight of the structure.
The first option is more universal and allows window installation in any way.
The second method is used only in cases where the window block is fixed in the opening using anchor plates. It is used for the installation of fixed windows, or for mass installation of standard format windows in a T-shaped casing.
Obviously, window installation without disassembly is an order of magnitude faster than with disassembly. However, due to the fact that most assembled metal-plastic window units have significant weight, only the first option is recommended for self-installation.
In order to correctly install the window yourself, you should clearly understand the main rule of installation operations of this type: the effectiveness of the window depends not only on the quality of the double-glazed window, but also on correct assembly the entire structure of the window unit, which includes several auxiliary subsystems.
In this case, “auxiliary subsystems” mean:
Particular attention should be paid to the position and protection of sealants. The figure on the right shows the basic layout of additional seals.
Please note that the seal around the outer perimeter of the window is installed only when installed in a reverse quarter. If the window is mounted in a conventional T-shaped casing (which is the most common case), then the slopes play the role of such a seal.
Now let’s look step by step at how to properly install PVC windows in wooden houses.
When dismantling windows in houses made of timber and logs, special attention should be paid to the safety of the frame, since making a new one will not be cheap.
In cases where the previous installation was carried out correctly, and the frames were fastened using self-tapping screws, the dismantling sequence consists of only three operations: removing the fasteners, removing the window block and cleaning the casing from the remains of the mounting foam.
Some problems may arise if the old window was nailed, to remove which you may need an additional tool - a nail puller.
It is important to consider that before installing a new window, it is necessary to inspect the casing frame. Namely: it is necessary to check for cracks, chips, as well as the absence of signs of rotting or woodworm damage. If any of the listed factors are detected, the pigtail should be replaced with a new one.
Let us note that regarding the replacement of the frame, you can find many conflicting recommendations on the Internet, among which there are those that claim that when renovating old houses, windows with metal-plastic frames can be installed without the frame. We consider this approach to be incorrect, since even an old frame with seasonal changes in humidity can create a displacement sufficient to jam or even destroy the window.
Of all the types of wooden buildings, only a frame house can avoid installing a sliding casing, but even in this case, the installation of the window is carried out in a ready-made wooden frame.
Unlike stone houses, in wooden buildings there is rarely a need for “pothole” repair of the installation site, since the casing almost always provides an even rectangular opening for fixing a new window.
The only exception may be a situation when it is necessary to insert a window whose dimensions are smaller than the previous one (the need for such a replacement often arises when renovating a bathhouse). In this case, preparing the internal opening consists of increasing the thickness of the casing strips.
The most common mistake made when installing Euro windows with your own hands is taking the original dimensions incorrectly.
Therefore, before you start fixing the window, you need to make sure that it actually matches the installation opening.
Fitting the frame is simple - 1.5-2 cm thick supports are placed on the bottom casing strip. The frame is installed on them, after which a visual assessment of the remaining gaps is performed.
If in any part of the window they exceed 2.5 cm, you need to think about correcting the geometric dimensions of the frame with the help of extensions.
Let us separately note one nuance - if the size of the gap between the frame and the casing is more than 2 cm, but less minimum thickness available expander, then there is a temptation to blow it out with foam without any size correction. Many people do this, after which they cannot understand why the expensive PVC window blows so cold.
It is important to remember: polyurethane foam is not a full-fledged heat insulator, and in no case can it act as a substitute for a window profile.
Once the size of the frame and the opening have been matched, you can begin the main operations.
Let's list them step by step:
Let us remind you once again what you need to pay special attention to when installing the frame:
The next step is to fill the installation gap with foam. Despite its apparent simplicity, this stage has several technical features:
Blowing is done from the inside, after which the seam is immediately sealed with pre-installed pieces of vapor barrier tape.
Avoiding lengthy discussions on the topic “which windows are better to install so that the savings are truly economical,” let’s formulate a simple rule: any window, even the most expensive, will not provide the declared characteristics if it is installed incorrectly.
Therefore, in addition to strictly following the above recommendations, you must avoid the following mistakes:
The Master Srubov company accepts orders for finishing, repair and restoration of log and lumber buildings, including the installation or replacement of windows. You can clarify the details of cooperation and order a surveyor’s visit by contacting our specialists using any of the communication methods published on the page.
Nowadays, with the ever-increasing prices of “life,” all sorts of thoughts about maintaining heat in our home enter our heads. Everyone knows that metal-plastic windows retain about 25% of heat, which means they will help save us a lot of money when cold weather sets in.
Installing a plastic window in a wooden house is not a tricky matter. Almost everyone can do this, having in their assortment the usual tools found in every garage. Do-it-yourself installation will help save money and nerves, since having workers in the house is not always a good thing. Let's look at the process in more detail.
First of all, you will need to take accurate measurements of the window niche. Moreover, the accuracy should be down to a centimeter, without “approximately”. If the measurements are smaller, you will have to knock off the wall; if it is larger, you will have to seal the space between the window frame and the wall. When installing PVC windows in a wooden house, the gap should be as small as possible. But it is worth considering that wood tends to expand, absorbing moisture. Subsequently, the window opening may be deformed. After all the measurements have been taken and written down on your sheet of paper, we head to a specialized company for the production of plastic windows.
When choosing a new window, you should focus your attention on 4 components of the window:
Double-glazed window. Glass is the most important component of a modern window. About 65% of heat loss passes through it. The most popular double-glazed windows are double-chamber ones, the chambers of which contain gas that has minimal thermal conductivity. Windows with additional film are now popular. The assortment includes transparent and darkened films. It further reduces heat transfer through the glass unit. It is better to install windows with darkened film on the sunny side.
Profile. An important role in the structure of a plastic window is played by the profile. The characteristics of the profile are determined by the number of air chambers, which serve to reduce thermal conductivity. Their quantity significantly affects the thermal conductivity of the window. If your wooden house is located in a place with a high noise level (for example, near a highway), then a six-chamber profile with double glazing will provide excellent sound insulation in the house.
Accessories. It must be made of high quality metal. The fittings can withstand considerable overloads, especially when the mechanism is used pivoting window with ventilation. The fittings are made of low-quality metal and will serve you well a small amount of time. With further long-term use, troubles such as sash misalignment, poor closure and leaks are possible.
Seals. Also, you should pay attention to the seals. They must be made of a special material that remains elastic under any conditions, be it frost or heat. Ordinary rubber loses its elastic properties when the temperature drops, and with prolonged exposure it cracks and crumbles.
All this should be considered before installing plastic window into a wooden house. If you choose all these elements correctly, then your Euro-window will not let you down and will keep home warmth. And remember that expensive is not always good. We must always choose the golden mean.
It's better to do it slowly, but first-class. Specialized workers do everything quickly, but they do not bother with the quality of the dismantling. Very often, they leave broken walls, broken old frames and glass.
When performing all the work on installing windows in a wooden house, there is no need to rush. You can do everything much more carefully, leaving all the elements intact and suitable for recycling. They will also be useful for a summer house or garage.
We remove the old window in the following sequence:
1) Remove the doors.
2) Take out the frame.
3) Remove the window sill and ebb.
You can skip this step, but serious problems may arise later. The casing will prevent the window opening from skewing. The material must be dry and durable, the thickness of the boards must be more than 4 cm. Otherwise, they will be deformed along with the opening. The width of the casing must correspond to the thickness of the wall.
Methods for casing:
The most complex and reliable is the first type of casing. But beginners who do not have special skills in installing windows prefer to do the casing with a backing block. To do this, you need to make grooves in the middle of the window opening.
You will need a circular saw, axe, chainsaw or chisel. Optimal size furrows 5x5 cm. Place on a block of the same size edged board and is secured with self-tapping screws or bolts. If a tongue-and-groove casing is used, then the T-shaped beam is cut out in advance and inserted into the furrow. The final stage Laying polyurethane foam is considered to be the gap between the casing and the wall. Since foam tends to collapse under the influence sun rays, the outside must be covered with foam windproof membrane, inside - vapor barrier.
Before final fastening of the frame, it is first necessary to try on the base in the window opening. If it is inconvenient to use a building level, you can use a plumb line. Then, using wedge-shaped blocks, we fix the frame in the window frame. This will help prevent the frame from moving horizontally and will make final fastening easier. 
For correct installation For windows in a wooden house, you should install fasteners with your own hands. The gaps between the frame and the opening should be within 1 cm. Most often, anchor plates are used. They are attached to the frame with self-tapping screws, about 3–5 cm long. Upon completion of all installation work, the gap between the frame and the window frame should be filled with polyurethane foam. If the gap is more than 2 cm, then foaming should be divided into several stages. Foam drying time is 10 – 12 hours.
After installing the frame, we install the sashes. The sash is a movable component of a Euro window, which allows it to be opened or closed. It is fixed on special articulated and movable elements (hinges) of the frame.
If the frame is set correctly and level, the sashes will fit perfectly. However, there may be some issues with gaps and locks. They can be adjusted with a Phillips screwdriver. The basic rule for installing sashes is to do everything evenly. If the side needs to be raised/lowered, then turn the bolts an equal number of turns. After each manipulation, you need to open/close the doors and try on the changes.
They installed the frame, screwed the shutters and gave installation materials harden a little. Now we have reached the final stages of instructions for installing windows in a wooden house with our own hands. It remains to complete some finishing touches and you can celebrate the victory.
First, you need to select and install correct window sill. There are several common types of window sills
Let's look at how to properly install a wooden window sill in a log house.
Step 1: Material Processing. To begin with, it is necessary to thoroughly treat our window sill with a moisture-proofing compound, which will protect it from the premature appearance of rot and damage to the window sill. The window opening must be cleaned of dust and dirt deposits, and, if possible, treated with the same composition as the window sill.
Step 2. Installation of the window sill. The wooden window sill is attached to nails, which must first be driven into the bottom beam of the box. After leveling the window sill, using wedge blocks, tighten the screws on the front side of the window sill until they stop. Any voids that remain should be filled with foam. After drying, cut off the excess.
Choose the wood for your window sill carefully. It should not be overdried or have chips or cracks. Wooden window sills are well suited for any log house. They will also serve as a good shelf for various plants or small things. 
After complete installation of the window sill, we proceed to installation wooden slopes. The process of installing window slopes from the inside is completely identical to installing slopes from the outside, and will not pose any problems during the work.
This is the final chord in installing windows in an old wooden house. Let's consider all the processes step by step.
Step 1: Sidebars. To begin, we attach the side panels using self-tapping screws. It is advisable to place the panel fastening points where the decorative corner will be installed, which will cover all the screws. So we will save as much as possible aesthetic appearance panels. Then, using the same analogy, we finish the upper window opening. 
Step 2. Sealing the seams. We coat all seams and joints of panels with sealant to prevent moisture penetration. Additionally, it can be treated with a moisture protective agent.
Step 3. Installation of corners. After all the seams and joints have dried, we carry out installation decorative corners. They can be attached using liquid nails, a construction stapler or foam. All work on the installation of the window sill and slopes should be carried out after the structure has completely dried. This means that you need to wait at least 12 hours after installing the window.
If this is your first time installing, the process may seem quite complicated. It’s better to immediately watch a video on how to install plastic windows in a wooden house. The main feature of wooden structures is their environmental friendliness. Wooden beams tend to “breathe”, age and shrink. This is main reason, which makes it difficult to install windows and doors in a wooden frame.
Shrinkage occurs due to loss of moisture from the wood. This is especially noticeable in the first 4 years. We need polyurethane foam to compensate for minimal shrinkage. By casing, we make the window opening independent of the walls. The socket limits the movement of the log vertically, thereby ensuring normal, uniform shrinkage and does not interfere with the breathing of the log.
So we figured out how to properly install a window in a wooden house. There is nothing complicated about it. Everything is elementary simple and clear if you carry out all installation work using proven technologies and simple step-by-step instructions.
Glad to be useful to you again, my friends!
After examining my windows in a wooden house, I came to the conclusion that it was time to replace them. I have not yet encountered such a process, so the lack practical experience I made up for it with the help of other people’s knowledge: I searched through a bunch of forums and websites, and through friends I found people who had already done similar work. Then I made a number of conclusions and determined the algorithm for my actions when reinstalling windows. Next, I will present everything sequentially.
First of all, I measured the windows and ordered new ones, providing the exact dimensions. While the order was being fulfilled, I began dismantling the old frames and then clearing the openings of accumulated debris. Upon receipt of the windows, I installed window sills and prepared double-glazed windows for installation. I placed the structures in permanent places and secured them. Of course, in reality the process was not so quick and easy, but there is nothing overwhelming about it - I managed it and you can too.
When installing plastic double glazing You can’t do without a level and a plumb line in the frame of a wooden house – if you want the window sashes to move smoothly, not open under their own weight, or jam. Then never fix a window without making sure – not by eye, but by level – that it is level.
To ensure that the work involved in inserting the window into the opening and leveling does not go down the drain, it is necessary to fix the leveled structure with mounting fasteners.
Most best option– 6 pieces for each window. They can be ordered in the same place where you submit your application for the production of double-glazed windows.
There are technical slides for these fastenings on each side of the window, so there will be no difficulties with the correct placement of the plates. Each plate has holes for self-tapping screws. Is it possible to do without plates? Yes, if you want to drill through it when attaching the frame, which will cause depressurization of the chambers in the profile. Personally, I am against such barbarism - I need windows not only for beauty, but also for reliable protection from cold and moisture. And tell the installers, if you don’t install them yourself, to install the windows according to the rules. Only in this case will the expectations from plastic double-glazed windows in a wooden house be fully justified.
I highly recommend removing the window sashes from the frame before installing it in the opening. This won’t take much time, but it will save a lot of effort: without it, it will become much lighter and directing it to the right place will be easier.
Algorithm for installing a double-glazed window into an opening wooden house:
When screwing in each self-tapping screw, do not hit the ridge of the log into which the pigtail rests. To avoid loosening the screw, screw it in slightly at an angle.
After fixing the frame, foam it along the contour only after hanging the sashes - they will prevent it from bending under the pressure of the hardening foam. If the sashes are not installed before this, then later there will be problems with the movement of the vents even in a perfectly installed frame.
After leveling the frame horizontally and vertically, a 2 cm thick gap should remain on each side of the entire structure for filling with foam. The height of the distance between the top panel of the frame and the first log is no less than 5 and no more than 15 cm - the gap will prevent the wood from pressing on the windows after the frame shrinks.
Before pouring the foam, a control check is required to ensure the correct installation of the entire structure. They focus on the “behavior” of the open sash: it should not independently go further than it was opened, or try to return back, obeying its weight, and not you.
This is a short educational program on the topic of installing plastic double-glazed windows in a wooden house. I hope that my advice will help you in your noble and exciting endeavor.
I wanted to install plastic windows in my country wooden house. Everything that will be described below is a verbal presentation of my experience in independently installing double-glazed windows in a house made of timber.
There are several reasons:
In order for the installation result to please you for many years, you need to adhere to the step-by-step algorithm of actions recommended below.
Regardless of who will install new double-glazed windows in wooden building– you or invited employees – It is permissible to install new structures only on a rigid foundation. I was lucky: the window casings in our house were replaced a couple of years ago, so the wood was flawless. That is, I did not find any wormholes, rot, cracks, dents or chips on it. Therefore, when ordering double-glazed windows, I indicated the dimensions of the new windows, taking into account that the boxes would remain. If in your case the condition of the frames turns out to be not very good, but your housekeeping will not allow you to throw them away, then the dismantled items can be used as the basis for a mini-greenhouse.
Don't know how good and bad the boxes under your windows are? All the same, do not allow either yourself or your employees to break them out “with meat”. You will always have time to use it for firewood. The same applies to glass: there is no certainty that they will not crack during dismantling, so take it out first - they will also find a use. I was lucky again: the frames were still strong, so the structures were removed without removing the glass.
Walk around the entire perimeter of the frame with a dry brush or clean rag to sweep away anything remaining after dismantling.
First on permanent place define a plastic window sill, which is “charged” with serving as the basis for the rest of the structure. Hence the “legs grow” of the requirement to install it perfectly level and horizontal. A regular building level will help determine how correctly it is installed in a vertical and horizontal position. To adjust its location taking into account the level readings, use cut strips of plastic or wood chips (the latter only if they have been treated with an antiseptic). To stabilize the window sill, make a notch on each side of the box, going 8 millimeters deep into the wood.
Secure the window sill with self-tapping screws, screwing it to the bottom of the window frame. Fasteners are placed with a two-centimeter indentation from the outer end of the window sill and with a mandatory backing under each washer. It will prevent the self-tapping screw from breaking through the fabric if you overdo it when tightening the fasteners. Don't worry that the fasteners will spoil the overall impression - they simply won't be visible.
I recommend before you start installation work put the handle. But the film can be removed later - this way there is less chance of leaving unattractive stripes on the surface of the plastic. You only need to tear off the adhesive strip where the handle is installed. When placing the lever on the sash, hold its long part parallel to the window sill.
After installing the window, this position of the handle will correspond to the mode of opening the entire sash towards itself. When the handle is moved with the end down, the sash will be locked; upward - only the narrow upper part of the window can completely move away from the frame panel.
Having secured the handle to the panel with a pair of bolts, you need to turn it end down. On the side posts, mark the holes for fastenings that will hold the window within the frame.
We place the assembled structure in the opening, making sure that on both vertical edges the intermediate distance from the frame to the sides of the glass unit is the same (about a centimeter). At the same time, remember that the horizontal direction is given to us by the window sill that was previously strengthened in the correct position. If it is inconvenient to use a level due to the presence of decor on the outside of the wall, then use a plumb line.
While the person helping you holds the frame, you must wedge a centimeter-wide spacer bar between the frame and the window frame. Their presence is necessary for the stability of the structure being fixed at the moment of connecting the glass unit to the frame with self-tapping screws. If you are lazy or forget about the bars, you can cause the window to move to the side during the fastening process. As a result, the doors will then be difficult to open and close.
After wedging in the bars and placing the glass unit strictly according to the level indicators, secure the inserted structure in the box with self-tapping screws, not forgetting to screw them in on each of the four sides.
When inserting a self-tapping screw, you need to ensure that its location is in the free space between the window and the frame itself.
Then, during periods when the house “walks” under the influence of climatic influences and seasonal changes, the windows in it will not warp.
Installing a window in a wooden house using a self-expanding tape in the video:
First, take care of maintaining the passage of the drain holes - install adjusting plates between them that will prevent condensation from accumulating from the window. Then insert the double-glazed window into the opening of the box so that there is free space around the entire perimeter between the two structures. It is necessary to maintain the integrity of the glass in the frame when the frame will move behind the house in the spring or winter.
If the glass unit fits tightly to the frame (minimum gap of 5 mm), file a claim with the manufacturer of the structure. A decent contractor should respond by offering an appropriate solution to the problem.
Having inserted a double-glazed window into the box and aligned the first one on four sides with respect to the last one, secure its location with plastic beads with profile spikes. These “spiky” strips are very easy to install: just push them with small taps into the openings. When the bead's spines reach the grooves, you will hear a characteristic click.
Having achieved a fixed and correct placement of the double-glazed window in the box, fill the voids between these two structures with polyurethane foam, treating the cracks from the inside and outside.
Remove any frozen excess by trimming with a knife.
Having made sure that the work was carried out correctly: the grooves are closed, the sashes move only under the pressure of your hands, you can begin installing additional fittings, trims and drainage systems.
All difficulties with installing windows in wooden houses have one root: the instability of wooden structures throughout the entire operational period. Without taking this factor into account during the installation process plastic structures, be it window or door, it is quite possible to find yourself in a situation where the new “joinery” fails without working for even a year.
How do wooden houses differ from others? Wood loses a lot of moisture in the first years after the construction of a log house. A year, as some say, is not enough for the final drying process. In the best case, the walls of the house will take their final size in the sixth year after their construction. But in some regions the process of “walking” of houses never ends.
On average, the height of the wall can decrease by 4-5 cm. And what will happen to the double-glazed windows that were installed in the box in such a way that there was only 2-2.5 cm between the sides of these structures? Do owners of wooden houses really need to forget about dreams of plastic windows? Of course not. You just need to follow a number of technical recommendations.
First: do not neglect the casing. It is also called a pigtail. Thanks to it, any windows become independent from exposure, within reasonable limits, load-bearing walls building. Whether they shrink or become slightly bent, this will not affect the integrity and functionality of the window.
General technical characteristics of the casing:
What is casing? The most common option is to make square vertical grooves with a side of 5 cm in the ends of the logs and then seal them with bars of the same size. But such treatment of the walls around the opening is only suitable for preparing a place for wooden windows. To prepare an opening for plastic double-glazed windows, you need to make a ridge at the ends of the logs, and then install a window carriage with a groove on it. The presence of a tongue and groove will ensure that the logs slide without harming the window frame.
What is a window carriage? These are vertical bars with dimensions of 15x10 cm, with notches on the edges. The depth of the cuts is 5x5 cm, they are made for inserting jumpers topped at the ends with spikes in the form of 15x5 cm planks.
The assembled casing is 7-8 centimeters below the window opening. This gap is left due to possible wall shrinkage. When the pigtail is assembled in the opening, it is then covered with rolled tow, and carriages are stuffed on top. After such a procedure, neither creaks from shrinkage nor drafts from under the window are scary.
Then you need to make the lower jumper and also stuff the carriages onto the comb with tow. Insert the upper jumper into the hole from above, and then lower it into the groove. Then strengthen the structure with self-tapping screws, making sure that they do not touch the ridge - this is important for maintaining the resulting structure’s relative freedom. After All cracks found between the window frame and the walls must be filled with tow.
You can also insert metal-plastic double-glazed windows into this design without fear that they will jam when the house shrinks. When installing, do not forget that noise, heat, and vapor barriers also need to be taken care of.
The gap between the log house and the casing must be filled with thin strips with wound tow fibers.
When the house begins to shrink noticeably, knock out the slats to replace them with new ones. To make this process easier, I strongly recommend attaching the top casing only to the casing. If you need it, carefully remove it, change the filling, and secure it in place.
When I conducted seminars, I often encountered bewilderment about the need for a window installer to understand the technology of constructing wooden buildings. What's strange about this? Without this, the installer will not be able to install the window in such a way that it will serve without complaints for years. In other cases it is impossible to do without casing.
If you are hired to install plastic double-glazed windows in a wooden house, find out the presence of casing. If it is not there, and instead of a frame there will be a frame from an old window, tell the owner that he has two options. Either he agrees to modernize the window opening for casing and the windows are smaller than planned, or the person will receive windows in old frames without casing, but without your guarantee for a quality result. Since even old wooden houses always “walk” and to resist this, it is better to always take this factor into account when installing windows. And don’t forget to indicate in the contract that you disclaim all responsibility for the future life of the windows.
Remember: everything wooden buildings shrink. And this fact must always be taken into account when installing plastic double-glazed windows in a log house.
The strongest shrinkage processes of wood occur in the first two years after the construction of the log house is completed. Each meter of masonry shrinks by 1.5 cm. And this is a very large value to ignore when equipping a wooden house with plastic windows.
The durability of the plastic window and the level of comfort during use depend on how professionally the casing is carried out. It provides the window with a safe position during the period when the house is once again slightly deformed due to fluctuations under the influence of changes in humidity or temperature.
What is casing? This is a box made of thick boards. It is inserted into the window opening, secured using a certain technology, and only then they install the PVC double-glazed window. The box itself is held inside the opening using side grooves.
In the process one cannot hope for technical qualities polyurethane foam, other fastening methods.
A gap must be left between the structure and the upper lintel of the window opening, the value of which should be greater than the expected shrinkage of the wooden wall.
How to make a pigtail:
Do not be intimidated by the work of installing plastic double-glazed windows in a wooden building. If you follow the correct algorithm, you can insert a modern window into a log house of any age with your own hands.
First of all, determine the distance to the window from the floor. Most convenient option, if the window sill is slightly higher than the horizontal plane of your desk. If there is none nearby, then use a distance of 80-90 cm.
Determine the lower and upper boundaries of the window opening using a water level. Top line should pass 13 +1.5 cm above the top border of the glass unit, the difference on the sides should be 12-14 +1.5 cm. Leave an allowance of one and a half centimeters to seal the cracks with construction foam.
Having decided on the size of the opening, take measurements for the future window. Observe extreme accuracy both when installing the casing and when taking parameters for the design of the double-glazed window itself. Qualitative measurement is one of the most important nuances that affects the quality of all subsequent work on installing a double-glazed window into the window opening.
After bringing the opening to the desired condition, start tenoning the ends of the logs facing the window. The rough window is trimmed with jute on the sides and bottom. Make the casing only from well-dried wood, sawn into bars. Make connections with self-tapping screws, and cover the points of convergence along the joints with sealant. Fill the gaps in the window with tow.
For information about casing and trim when installing PVC windows in a wooden house, watch the video:
The finished metal-plastic structure is placed after being ideally pulled out in the foreground or deepened into the wall. The main product is secured with self-tapping screws, screwing them into specially prepared grooves.
It is permissible to install a metal-plastic window of any configuration in an ordinary wooden house, but not made of timber, if you know how to properly frame it, take measurements and select the appropriate fittings.
When selecting tools and other materials, do not take self-tapping screws longer than 12 cm. Such “stings” will definitely go beyond the frame and dig into the main building, which is unacceptable given the mobility of a wooden house.
To waterproof the external seam, you can use acrylic sealant without additional components in the composition, sealing tape that self-expands after being placed in place, or regular vapor-permeable tape. Such protection will extend the service life of the polyurethane foam and prevent the formation of drafts.
By inside seam lay a vapor barrier tape, securing it with special glue. And only then the seam is treated with polyurethane foam.
Reading time ≈ 12 minutes
Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) is currently very popular - it is affordable, holds heat well and does not lose geometric parameters. Against the backdrop of rising energy prices, such materials are almost a panacea, so installing a plastic window in a wooden house with your own hands is of interest to many people. In the article, in addition to installation instructions, you will find photo and video materials that will help you cope with the task.
Log house with an attic in the process of glazing with PVC windows
In order to choose a good plastic window that is suitable specifically for your case, you will have to pay attention to several parameters. Do not neglect these indicators so that during operation you do not have any complaints about the manufacturer or even force majeure circumstances.
Single-chamber (left) and three-chamber (right) double-glazed windows
The production of double-glazed windows involves not only different manufacturing technologies, but also different glass - this directly affects their performance characteristics. Below you will see what they are:
Note. Also, double-glazed windows are distinguished by the number of chambers. For regions with a temperate climate, one- and two-chamber packages are popular, in cold zones - three-chamber ones.
Video: The glass unit formula determines the choice
Five-chamber profile made of metal-plastic
The functionality of PVC profiles for windows can be determined by six parameters, including:
Below you will find step-by-step instructions for installing plastic windows in a wooden house. This is not difficult, but it will require the presence of certain carpentry tools - I will not write them out separately and you will learn about them as you read.
Removing old windows
I suggest special instructions for dismantling old windows from the opening, so as not to damage those elements that will remain in use. But this only applies to old houses, where there are already window openings with jambs and they meet your needs - in a new building this point is not relevant.
First of all, you should remove all the glass - to do this, remove the glazing bead and all the nails that did not come out when eliminating this profile. Sometimes the studs are invisible, so to make sure they are present or absent, run a knife or screwdriver at the place where the beads are installed, lightly pressing against the glass. If you stayed there fastening material, then the blade will definitely trip over it, and then, as they say, it’s a matter of technique.
In some cases, in order to seal the windows as much as possible and get rid of drafts, the glass is glued to the frame with silicone or silicone sealant. In such situations, all attempts to pick up the glass with a knife in order to tear it away from the frame are doomed to failure. There is only one way out - to break the glass, but it can fly apart and hurt you. To avoid this, glue wet newspaper onto the glass and break it - all the fragments will fall nearby and will not fly apart.
The frame is supported by nails, which are also very difficult to pull out - it is much easier to cut vertical frame profiles with a hacksaw, as shown in the top photo. After this, use a nail puller to pick up part of the cut vertical and tear it off. Perform a similar operation on the opposite side, and then tear off the cross sections with a nail puller. The opening is ready and you can insert a plastic window.
This is how a groove is made for the casing tenon in the embedded block
First of all, you should cut out the window openings and there are two options. If the plastic windows are already ready, then, of course, you will have to focus on their sizes, but this is the exception rather than the rule. Usually, the window (door) openings are cut out first and only after that the window dimensions are taken or a representative of the company where the windows will be made is invited (this is a free service).
Casing into the embedded block (left) and into the deck (right)
First, let's look at the features of installing a casing (plug). Casing into a deck clearly involves cutting a tenon along the verticals of the opening, and making a groove in the box for this tenon, as shown in the image at the top right. But we will focus on the pigtail with the embedded bar - it is more popular.
There are more options with an embedded block. A groove is cut in the opening according to the size of the block (usually 50x50 mm) and the block is driven into it without nailing it, and a distance of 3 cm is left at the top for shrinkage of the house. But sometimes they make a so-called monolith spike, this is when the spike is one piece with the vertical of the casing. In both cases, the logs or beams, when the wall shrinks, will simply slide along the tenon without deforming the window frame.
A jute or felt tape is nailed to both sides of the inserted block with a stapler - this is necessary for sealing and. Now you can screw a rough box to the block, which is most often assembled from a 50x100 mm pine board. In this case, it is best to use wood screws 75 mm long - they are guaranteed not to pass through the block and will not reach the edge of the opening. If this happens, a log or beam may hang on the screw, which will lead to the formation of a gap between the logs.
Now the upper and lower crossbars are inserted, but if at the bottom it is laid between vertical boards, then at the top it is placed on them. The gap left should be 3 cm, which means that the distance from the end of the vertical to the top of the opening is 8 cm, that is, the jumper, having a 5-centimeter thickness, will leave 3 cm of free space after installation. It is best to fasten the boards of the rough box together with metal corners. Now we are talking about installing a plastic window in a wooden house with your own hands, so below you can watch a video about how a window frame is made.
Important! The use of polyurethane foam in this case is unacceptable! The foam will glue the box with the opening, which will prevent the logs from sliding freely along the block during shrinkage.
Video: Window or casing of an opening - protection against building shrinkage
PVC window sill
After installing the rough frame (casing), you can begin installing the window sill - this is the first step for assembling a window within the opening. The fact is that the window sill is not adjacent to the transverse profile from the side, but the frame is placed on top - there is a special recess there. But for strength, you should make a 5-8 mm cut on the sides of the box and insert the window sill there - this way it will hold much better. To level the horizontal level, plastic plates are used as stands (mention them when ordering the window if you are installing it yourself).
Self-tapping screws with press washer
The window sill element must be attached to the bottom of the window opening with self-tapping screws, departing 20-25 mm from the edge of the plastic panel, and subsequently the heads will be covered with a frame profile. To prevent the screw head from pushing through the plastic, you need a version with a press washer without a rubber gasket, as in the top photo.
Installation of a plastic window in a wooden house
PVC frames are always covered with a protective film, but according to the installation technology, it is removed only when the window is finally inserted - this protects the plastic from scratches and contamination. To prevent the shutters from opening (this interferes with installation), screw the window handles and place them in the “closed” position (vertically down).
On vertical and horizontal window profiles, holes are drilled on the installation line of the double-glazed window with a diameter 1 mm larger than the diameter of the fastening screw. Most often, the screw is 5 mm, and the hole is made 6 mm. The caps must be recessed into the plastic, so a 10 mm drill is used to make a countersunk to the depth of the metal profile. You need three holes on the sides, and two at the top and bottom, with a distance of 50-60 mm from the corner.
At the bottom, the frame is placed directly on the window sill, but at the top and on the sides there should be a gap of about 10 mm or a little less. Therefore, to screw the frame evenly, use wooden spacers (they are easy to make yourself). When everything is screwed in, check the vertical and horizontal levels, as well as the function of opening and closing the doors, so that there is no distortion.
If the sash closes normally (there is no friction anywhere and there is a tight connection), then close the window and insert double-glazed windows. It is unlikely that it will be possible to press the glazing bead with your hands, therefore, in order for this profile to fit tightly into the seating groove, it is finished off with a rubber hammer. Now all that remains is to blow out the gap between the frame and the rough frame with mounting foam, and you can open the sash the very next day (a precaution against warping the profile). All that remains is to make slopes inside and outside, as well as install platbands, but this is after the final shrinkage of the house.
In fact, installing a plastic window in a wooden house, except for the construction and installation of the casing, is done in the same way as in a brick, block or monolithic building. But attentiveness is needed in any case, so try to remember all your actions and, if necessary, read the article again. You can also print out the installation process on a printer and keep it in your pocket while you work for use as needed.
Shrinkage is a natural and inevitable process in all wooden buildings. In this regard, installation of plastic windows in log houses different from the standard installation. The highest percentage of wood drying was observed in the first two years after the completion of the log house. The height of the walls, as a rule, is reduced to 1.5 cm per meter of masonry. How to insert a plastic window in a wooden house? What devices are needed to achieve this goal? The answers to these and many other questions are presented in this article.
The main stage of installing double-glazed windows in a wooden house is fixing the frame in the window opening. The casing ensures the independence of the windows from the load-bearing walls of the structure. In other words, when the frame shrinks, the window structure remains “intact” and is not subject to deformation vibrations. The window frame takes on all shrinkage loads and strengthens the walls of the building in the area of the opening.
The casing is a box made of thick boards. Install it in the opening, after which installation is carried out PVC structures. The box is held in place by grooves located in the side posts. It is unacceptable to use any fastening elements, including polyurethane foam. A compensating gap is left above the structure itself, designed for the maximum amount of shrinkage of the logs.
There are several options for installing the pigtail:
Preparing window openings
It is quite possible to install high-quality plastic windows in an old wooden house with your own hands. The main installation rules are to follow the sequence of actions and take into account the construction features.
First, measure the distance of the window from the base of the floor. The most optimal parameter is 80-90 cm. Ideally, the window sill is installed above the desk, the standard height of which is 80 cm. The upper and lower boundaries of the window opening are marked using professional tool– water level. Its height should exceed the same parameter of the inserted plastic window by 13 cm, and its width by 12-14 cm. Plus, 1.5 cm is left on each side for sealing with polyurethane foam.
The next stage is preparing the window opening (measurements, installation). Using a building level, markings are made for cutting it. Maximum accuracy is especially important in measurements and installation of the casing itself. The quality of the installation work will depend on this. After the opening is ready, a tenon is cut out at the ends of the logs on the sides of the structure. The lower and side parts of the rough window are sheathed with jute.
A casing is made from well-dried wooden blocks, the installation of which is carried out starting from the window sill. The structural elements are fastened together with self-tapping screws, and the joining areas are treated with sealant. The small gap in the socket is filled with tow.
The finished window is installed either perfectly aligned with the front edge or slightly recessed into the house. Fix the frame to the previously fixed structure using self-tapping screws, having previously drilled holes for them. You can install double-glazed windows into a wooden house (not made of timber), taking into account all the details. We are talking not only about the accuracy of markings and the choice of high-quality material for casing, but also about the correct selection of fasteners for fixing the window. It is not recommended to use self-tapping screws whose length exceeds 12 cm. Such fasteners will easily pass through the frame and violate the integrity of the log building, which is unacceptable according to the “construction” rules.
External seam waterproofing can be done different ways: vapor-permeable or self-expanding sealing tape, one-component acrylic sealant. They will protect the polyurethane foam from moisture and direct sunlight. On the inside, the seam is covered with vapor barrier tape. Glue it until foaming to the end part of the frame with a thin strip. After the seam is treated with polyurethane foam, the protective paper from the adhesive strip is removed and glued to the casing. The window sill is installed and the starting profile is screwed to the edge of the frame before the sealing mass hardens.
