Stairs.  Entry group.  Materials.  Doors.  Locks.  Design

Stairs. Entry group. Materials. Doors. Locks. Design

» Installation of insulated doors. The secret of self-insulation. The whole process consists of several stages

Installation of insulated doors. The secret of self-insulation. The whole process consists of several stages

In winter, when severe frosts Ice, frost or condensation may appear on the inner surface of the door - this indicates freezing of the entrance metal door. What to do in such a situation? The difference in temperature outside and indoors leads to such consequences and indicates poor thermal insulation of the door. Therefore, we will consider in detail how to insulate a metal door in a private house and apartment.


Metal by itself cannot serve as a heat insulator, i.e. it has a high thermal conductivity coefficient. Honeycomb cardboard, which is used to fill most cheap ones, e.g. Chinese doors also fails to cope with the function assigned to it. And it doesn’t have such a task; it is designed to reduce the weight of a metal door.

In rare cases, a cavity door leaf filled with insulation, but it is impossible to check its presence in doors in the middle price range, so you have to take the seller’s word for it, and then think about how to insulate an iron door with your own hands.

It's obvious that simple ways Like sticking a seal around the perimeter of the door leaf can do little to help in this situation. A more serious approach is required here, in particular, to insulate the entrance metal door in accordance with all the rules for carrying out thermal insulation work.

Do-it-yourself insulation of a metal entrance door

The process begins with the selection of the optimal thermal insulation material, which determines the effectiveness of insulation and its duration.

How to insulate a metal door

Types of insulation:

Penofol

Thanks to the reflective ability of the foil layer, it retains almost all the heat in the room. Used only as additional material.

Rigid insulation

These include polystyrene foam and expanded polystyrene (penoplex). Their advantage is ease of installation and relatively low price. Since it is not hygroscopic, it does not require additional films. This is the only suitable option for installation in a cottage, country or rural house. After all, in in this case the door serves as a barrier to low temperatures and wind, which is not observed in apartment buildings, where the door opens into the entrance.

Note. Choosing thermal insulation material, give preference to penoplex (expanded polystyrene). It is an order of magnitude denser than polystyrene foam and will provide the door with much more effective insulation.

Soft insulation

This category includes glass wool and mineral (basalt) wool. Their difference is only in the raw materials, in their thermal insulation characteristics they are not much different. Mineral wool is characterized by environmental friendliness, Fire safety, the ability to vary the installation height without additional trimming.

Cotton wool is sold in rolls or sheets, which makes it possible to cut blanks from it required sizes and place them in cells formed by the stiffening ribs of the door itself. To provide the desired height(thickness of insulation) it is enough to simply press down the material (press cotton wool), the thermal insulation properties will not be affected.

But cotton wool has a drawback that prevents it from being recommended for installation in iron doors for private homes. Because With different sides doors operate at different temperatures, and sometimes the difference is up to 40 ° C (-15 outside and +25 in the house). This leads to a shift of the dew point inside the insulation, and the wool gets wet. The effect can be neutralized by installing a hydrobarrier film.

But, nevertheless, professionals do not recommend insulation iron door cotton wool in a private house. It can become an acceptable option only if the entrance door to the apartment is insulated, since in this case there is not such a big difference in temperatures (it is much warmer in the entrance than outside).

Inflatable insulation

Presented with polyurethane foam. Spraying makes it possible to fill all the cracks, but has a high price.

Thermal insulation of luxury metal doors is carried out using three types of materials: foam plastic (main material), penofol (additional), polyurethane foam (filling the voids of the stiffeners and frames).

Note: a set of materials, which can be found in stores, for insulation outer door made of metal is of little use, because They use dermantin, foam rubber or synthetic winterizer as insulation.

Additional materials for door insulation

  • liquid nails, hardware, polyurethane foam - when insulating with rigid insulation;
  • hydrobarrier film, vapor barrier, adhesive tape - when soft;
  • sheet of fiberboard, plywood, OSB (for cladding, if the door leaf is non-removable);
  • decorative material for finishing: dermantin, MDF panels or plastic panels;
  • seal (rubber, silicone).

Tools you will need: tape measure, drill, jigsaw, screwdriver, pencil, stationery knife.

Note. When working with glass wool, you need to take care to protect your respiratory tract, hands and eyes (respirator, gloves, goggles).

Frame structure inside the door (stiffening ribs)

After the door leaf is disassembled, it may turn out that there are no stiffeners in the door cavity, then they will need to be made.

For this, a metal profile or corner with dimensions corresponding to the thickness of the door is used. Its widespread use is due to the fact that it is easier to weld metal to the metal surface of the door.

However, many masters agree that it is better to use wooden beam, because Wood has lower thermal conductivity. The difficulty when working with timber is that it is difficult to fasten it securely enough without damaging the front layer of the door leaf.

How to insulate a metal entrance door in a private house

Insulation technology steel door from the inside will be described in several stages, in the form step by step instructions so that even without experience in construction you can do the work yourself.

  • the door leaf is removed from the hinges. Masters are able to perform work “by weight”, but for a beginner this can cause difficulties;
  • all overhead elements are dismantled. These include: lock lining, handle, peephole;
  • The casing on one side is dismantled. If the door is collapsible, i.e. it can be opened without disturbing one of the layers, then the dismantled plane of the door is set aside and then installed in place. Otherwise, one of the sides of the door (usually the inside) is cut off and subsequently replaced with a sheet of chipboard and finishing material;

Note. When planning to insulate a Chinese metal door, be prepared for the fact that it will not be possible to disassemble it. You'll just have to cut one of them front sides canvas and replace it later with an overlay made from a sheet of chipboard.

  • If there are stiffening ribs inside the door cavity, you can begin laying insulation. Otherwise, you need to take care of their arrangement;
  • formation of internal sheathing. To do this, first make a frame to which the stiffeners are mounted. Metallic profile is welded, and the beam is fastened with hardware so that the integrity of the front covering of the door is not compromised.

Advice. It is not recommended to make only longitudinal or transverse frame cells; it is advisable to use a combination of them. Especially if we're talking about about insulation with soft insulation materials, which tend to settle (fall down) during operation.

  • Insulation is placed in the cells of the frame. When laying, you need to ensure that it completely fills the entire space of the cell, while corresponding to its height;
  • When insulating with foam plastic, it is cut into blanks of the required size, liquid nails are applied to the blank and glued to the surface of the door. If there are gaps, it is recommended to fill them polyurethane foam;

How to insulate a metal door with polystyrene foam - video

  • when insulating with cotton wool, work begins with laying the film, which should occupy the entire inner surface of the door and extend beyond it by 150-200 mm. Next, the cotton wool is cut into pieces of 10-15 mm. larger than the size of the cell (expanding a little, the cotton wool will easily fill them) and placed in the cells. Then the cotton wool is covered with a second layer of film, and the folds from the bottom layer of film are wrapped on upper layer films and sealed with tape. Thus, the cotton wool turns out to be in a case, which will become reliable protection from moisture.

Note. If the cotton wool is not protected, it will get wet and conduct heat; in addition, it will come into contact with inner surface doors. And constant exposure to moisture on metal will sooner or later cause it to rust. Moreover, the average door does not have internal corrosion protection.

  • the insulation is covered with penofol (if the door is facing the room) with a reflective layer into the room;
  • if the door leaf is disassembled without problems, then the second removable part is installed in place, and the insulation of the metal door can be considered complete. But often, it is necessary to prepare a covering sheet that will replace the panel removed from one side of the door.
For these purposes, chipboard or plywood is used. To prepare the workpiece you need:
  • transfer the dimensions of the door leaf, including the peephole and lock, onto the sheet;
  • cut out a template;
  • screw the sheet to the door frame with self-tapping screws;
  • eliminate irregularities, protruding edges, and also grind off the edges of the sheet a little.

Note. Fastening cladding panel performed from bottom to top. This way it will level out as you screw it in.

  • The latter is used for decorative upholstery or door trim and installation of previously removed elements and fittings.

The result of all work will be an insulated metal door, which will reliably protect the premises from heat loss.

Now you can hang it back on the hinges and check the functionality of the handles and lock.

But it is worth noting that insulating a metal door only in the area of ​​the door leaf is a small part possible works on thermal insulation of doors.

One of the sources of heat loss is the door frame. In most cases, it is hollow, which means it transmits heat well.

Insulation of metal door frames

Insulation door frame It is performed by blowing polyurethane foam inside the metal profile.

It's easy to do. It is enough to drill holes in the frame profile (not through holes) at a distance of 400-450 mm. The diameter of the hole is equal to the diameter of the tube from the foam container. After this, the cylinder tube is inserted into the profile and the foam fills the free space. Material prepared for the website www.site

Note. In the same way, you can insulate the metal stiffeners in the door cavity immediately after installing the frame.

Upholstery and insulation of an iron door - video

Additional insulation of the entrance metal door

In addition to the work performed, there are two more directions through which heat escapes outside (blowing from under the iron entrance door):

  1. through a loose fit of the door leaf to the frame. This problem can be eliminated by gluing a rubber seal around the perimeter of the door;
  2. through door slopes. In this case, you will have to dismantle the slopes and inspect the safety of the foam that was used. Restore foam if necessary. Then make a new insulated slope.

All work on insulating street or apartment metal doors can be done independently. But if you are afraid of making a mistake, it is better to order the services of a master. The cost of his work will be from 1,500 rubles. (excluding material cost). And the final price will be determined taking into account the type of door, the complexity of dismantling one side of the door leaf, the presence of stiffeners, the type of seal and the type of finishing material.

However, the costs of insulating external doors made of metal are always justified, since they entail a significant reduction in heat loss through the doorway and avoid the appearance of condensation on the surface of the door, which leads to the destruction of the door leaf.

A modern metal entrance door is actually complex design, where iron is just a shell. The cavities of the leaf can be filled with insulation, since the main function of the door is to retain heat. But there are often heat leaks, not only in private houses, but also in apartments. In addition, inexpensive metal doors have ordinary tin as a body, and instead of insulation - cardboard honeycomb.

Reasons for heat loss in the house:

  1. Thin walls. Folded in the classic way walls from several decades ago that do not have insulation begin to freeze over time. As a result, the thermal insulation of the house deteriorates.
  2. Cracks and crevices. When a heavy structure shrinks, cracks form on the walls, which over time, if you do not pay attention to them, turn into huge gaps. Such gaps are also called cold bridges.
  3. Technical openings(old doors and windows). Over time, the wood dries out, thereby forming colossal gaps where the boxes are installed. Windows that are not properly insulated are one of the key sources of heat loss. And the door, if it is made of sheet metal and does not have necessary insulation or a low-quality Chinese design, inside which there is cardboard instead of a heat insulator - this is the direct cause of colossal heat losses.

A metal door that does not have proper insulation is a direct source of cold in the house

That's why Door insulation is an important component of thermal protection of the entire house. But before you implement your idea, find out the exact reasons for the loss of heat, so that you don’t end up wasting time and energy on insulating the doors, and the reason for the uncomfortable microclimate lies in the cold bridges formed through the cracks in the house.

Important! The thickness of the iron door leaf is not an indicator of the thermal insulation of the door. A thick layer of metal is, first of all, protection against penetrations and only then a heat insulator (provided that there are no cracks in the structure).

Sometimes heat can be lost not through the leaf, but through the cracks of the iron door frame

Choosing insulation

The insulation on the door not only protects the room from the cold, but also insulates the rooms from extraneous noise, which is quite important in apartment buildings. Therefore, when choosing a ready-made door design It’s worth asking about its contents.

Penofol

Penofol equipped with a reflective foil layer, thanks to which all the heat remains indoors. But, as a rule, it is used only as an auxiliary insulation material.

Rigid (sheet) insulation

Sheet heat insulators (penoplex, polystyrene foam, etc.), good for ease of installation and low cost. Since the material is not hygroscopic, it is not necessary to attach a vapor barrier and moisture-proof membrane when installing it.

When choosing rigid insulation, give preference expanded polystyrene (penoplex). He significantly denser and stronger polystyrene foam, besides insulates more effectively.

Soft (rolled) insulation materials

Rolled or sheet soft thermal insulators include glass wool and mineral wool. They differ only in the base; their thermal insulation characteristics are approximately the same. Material environmentally friendly, non-flammable, allows you to independently choose the installation height, eliminating additional trimming. These advantages make cotton insulation especially popular.

Illustrative examples of heat loss

The material is sold in rolls or slabs. From rolled wool You can cut out elements of any shape and size, and to reduce the thickness of the insulating layer, just press and fix the material.

Vata deficiency - high hygroscopicity. The material is afraid of moisture and if the insulation absorbs water, it loses its heat-protective properties. Experts do not recommend using this insulation for doors, since with a high contrast of external and internal temperatures, the likelihood of the insulation getting wet is extremely high. However, the option is quite acceptable for front door to the apartment.

Inflatable (sprayed) insulation

Video - Visual process of insulating a metal entrance door in a private house

With the onset of frost, it can be difficult to keep the house warm if there are loopholes for cold air. A poorly insulated door is one of the main sources of heat leakage. Most often, old structures - doors - suffer from unsatisfactory tightness. modern models have a layer of insulation and seals. But over time, even the highest quality material wears out and loses its properties. Every owner of a house or apartment has to face the question of how to insulate a wooden door. The solution to this problem is simple. It is necessary to eliminate the gaps between the door frame and the opening, install a seal around the perimeter of the door leaf and insulate the leaf itself.

Wood is a material that has low thermal conductivity and should not allow cold to pass through. Why then might it be necessary to insulate a wooden entrance door? Here are the main reasons for poor sealing:

  1. Cold holes often appear at the junction of the doorway and frame. During installation door block all gaps are filled with polyurethane foam, which ensures good thermal insulation. Over time, the properties of the foam are lost and it collapses. This process occurs especially quickly if the foamed area has not been plastered or covered with a casing: sunlight is harmful to the foam.
  2. Another reason is the gaps between the box and the canvas. They may not appear immediately, but only after a certain period of operation. The formation of cracks is promoted high humidity, low-quality raw materials used to make the door, unprofessional installation, and simply a long service life.
  3. Door leaf insulation becomes ineffective over time, especially if it was selected without taking into account operational requirements. For example, mineral wool does not tolerate moisture: it is pressed, gets wet and loses volume, completely losing its heat-saving properties.

Materials for insulating a wooden door

To perform insulation wooden doors, you need to prepare the material.

Insulation for door leaf:

  • mineral wool (if the structure does not go directly onto the street);
  • foam rubber – inexpensive material, but not very durable;
  • Izolon is a modern insulation material with excellent performance characteristics;
  • foam sheets are a lightweight material that retains its volume and shape well over a long period of time;
  • expanded polystyrene - characterized by a long operational period and low level of thermal conductivity.

Polyurethane foam is necessary to eliminate drafts through the junction of the door frame and the opening.

The seal is necessary to insulate the door around the perimeter:

  • Foam tape of various thicknesses with an adhesive base. It is inexpensive, but quickly breaks down.
  • Silicone sealant is environmentally friendly. At the end of its service life it begins to tear and becomes sticky.
  • Rubber tape is a universal seal with excellent characteristics.
  • Thermoplastic elastomer seal is the most durable and durable material. The disadvantage is the complex installation process.
  • The polyurethane self-adhesive seal is easy to install and has good technical characteristics.

For decorative design door leaf and protection of insulation from street moisture and air will be required upholstery: leatherette, eco-leather, natural wood lining, laminated MDF. Related materials, which are necessary for the work - upholstery nails and wire.

Preparatory stage

Do-it-yourself insulation of a wooden door begins with measuring the door leaf and purchasing material. The door must be inspected in order to identify defects and eliminate them:

  • If the hinges are weakened and the door begins to sag under its own weight, you need to secure them with new screws or replace the fittings.
  • You should immediately take into account your method of insulation. If it leads to an increase in the weight of the structure, it is necessary to install additional hinges on the door leaf.
  • If the door leaf closes tightly due to deformation, and replacing the hinges does not eliminate this defect, treating the edge of the structure with a plane will help fix it.
  • It is necessary to check the condition of the sealant between the frame and the opening. Delete if necessary old material and foam the cracks with new sealant.
  • Restoring a door is a convenient opportunity to replace old fittings - eyes, handles.

We will need:

  1. roulette
  2. scissors
  3. hammer
  4. screwdriver
  5. construction stapler with staples

To install the seal, it may be necessary to insert a groove, so it’s good if you have a corner one on your farm. Sander, equipped with a cutter.

Insulation of the door leaf

What is the best way to insulate a wooden entrance door with your own hands to ensure the maximum degree of thermal insulation for the door leaf? The most effective would be to insulate the structure on both sides.

Upholstering a door with leatherette is a simple and popular method. It is most convenient to do the work when the door is removed from its hinges, but with some skill you can also work with the door hung. The process goes like this:

  • the door leaf is freed from fittings;
  • the insulation sheet is cut so that its dimensions exceed the door area by about 10 cm on each side;
  • using a construction stapler, attach the insulation to the surface of the door, trim off the excess;
  • leatherette is attached over the prepared insulation with upholstery nails;
  • a roller is formed from excess leatherette hanging along the perimeter of the canvas;
  • decorate the surface using wire and upholstery nails;
  • return the fittings to their place, hang the door.

Sometimes it is more expedient to insulate a door in a private house with polystyrene foam or polystyrene, covering it with clapboard or laminated chipboard. In this case, the door leaf becomes thicker and heavier. For this method, you need to assemble a wooden frame and attach it to the door leaf. There will be a layer of insulation inside the frame. Its thickness is selected so that it matches the width of the plank. Since foam plastic is a dense material, and when laying it there will still be small gaps, all gaps between the individual pieces of foam plastic and the frame are filled with sealant. After cutting off the cured sealant, you can begin covering the door with the outer material. You can do without a frame. In this case, the foam is glued directly to the canvas, and then the door is sheathed with leatherette.

Seal installation

The seal will ensure a tight fit of the door to the frame. Installation of the seal is quite simple, since it is usually a material in the form of a tape, one side of which is coated with a special adhesive composition. It will be more difficult to select the desired thickness of the seal: if the thickness is insufficient, the material will leak cold air. Excessively thick is also not a suitable option. If the door is difficult to close, this can lead to the handle becoming loose and the lock breaking. How to insulate a wooden entrance door with a sealant correctly? Here's the procedure:

  • Determine the size of the gap between the door and the frame. If the parameters exceed a few mm, you can begin installing the seal.
  • If the sealing tape has an adhesive base, it is simply glued along the perimeter line of the frame so that it is located as close as possible to the outside of the door leaf.
  • The silicone seal is attached using a construction stapler.
  • If there is a need to install a seal with a minimum gap size, use a grinder to cut a small groove around the perimeter. In order to accommodate a two- and three-layer seal, the groove dimensions must be 3–4 mm wide and 1–2 mm deep.

Door insulation with rollers

A dense roller made of leatherette strip with insulation inserted inside is designed to seal the joint between the jamb and the door leaf. Do it as follows:

  • The sides of the door leaf are measured, after which 4 strips are cut out of leatherette. Their length should correspond to the parameters of the length and width of the door leaf, and the width should be 10 cm.
  • The strip is attached with upholstery nails or a stapler to the edge of the door so that the wrong side is on top.
  • Next, the door is insulated and upholstered with leatherette, and a roller is formed.
  • A roll of insulation is placed into the prepared leatherette strip, the leatherette is wrapped and secured along the entire length of the perimeter.

This simultaneously creates a warm door leaf and a sealed gap between the jamb and the door leaf.

Video

A wooden door, insulated with your own hands, if you follow these simple tips, will reliably protect your house from both drafts and street noise.

Wood and its products excellent material for making doors. Its significant disadvantage is its susceptibility to moisture. As a result, the door may warp and shrink. As a result, the door frame does not fit tightly to the opening - gaps form, and cracks appear in the door leaf. Therefore, the question of how to insulate a wooden entrance door with your own hands is practical significance. Methods of insulating a door come down to combating cracks and gaps through which drafts penetrate and heat escapes.

An effective way to increase the thermal insulation of a door structure can be:

Installing a second door will help save heat

  • insulation using sealing profiles;
  • sealing doors with rollers;
  • insulation of the fabric with upholstery insulation;
  • installation of insulation.

An additional method of insulation wooden door in a private house - installing a second door at the entrance to the house. For inexpensive doors, this is an advantageous alternative to using polyurethane foam, isolon, or wood fiber.

The greater the temperature difference between the outside and inside the door, the higher the heat loss. The space between the doors - the vestibule - is constantly filled with heated air, so when installing additional door at the inlet, heat loss is minimal.

This method is not always suitable for apartment owners and will not eliminate drafts. To prevent cold air from entering the room, at least one door must also be insulated.

Mineral wool, corrugated cardboard, polystyrene foam, foam rubber, polyurethane, and wood fiber can be used as insulation.

Insulation using sealing profiles and insulation materials

Seals effectively eliminate gaps between the frame and the doorway. As a result of operation wooden structures under the influence of humidity, the volume of the door can decrease by 10%. This applies to wooden doors of a prefabricated design. For example, paneled doors can also warp. Therefore, an excellent way to insulate a paneled door is to provide a double sealing circuit: a rubber profile and special seals.

Rubber and foam rubber are usually used as a seal. Foam rubber lightweight material It also has good thermal insulation properties. Convenient for work operations, protects the home from the penetration of cold air and prevents heat transfer. However, its use is not recommended. It is highly flammable and during combustion produces a toxic poison that is dangerous to human health. To avoid dangerous situations It is advisable to opt for a rubber seal.

Insulation using sealing profiles involves gluing a rubber seal around the perimeter of the door frame. To completely eliminate drafts, the door leaf must fit tightly to the door frame. To do this, you need to choose the right thickness of the seal.

The thickness of the seal depends on the size of the gap between the frame and the door leaf. Measurements are taken in compressed form. The length is equal to the length of the door perimeter. And the width is selected according to the width of the area of ​​their contact.

If the sealing material has been selected and all the necessary measurements have been made, you can begin insulation. To do this, moving around the perimeter of the box using paper from the adhesive part of the seal

The work itself is very simple. It is necessary to gradually separate the paper from the adhesive part of the seal, moving along the perimeter of the door frame. The seal is secured by simply pressing your hand.

You might be wondering how to insulate the front door to a bathhouse or steam room? .

Sealing doors with rollers

Allows you to get rid of drafts and reduce heat loss in your home without additional work.
A roller is a small strip of leather or dermantine, inside of which there is a seal. You will have to make the roller yourself. The service life of the roller will depend on how correctly you chose the material and insulation, the installation location and installed it.

Manufacturing and installation rules:

  • the material of the roller must match the material of the door upholstery;
  • The width of the strip should be twice as long as the width of the door frame.
  • how more durable material insulation, the longer the roller will last.

Wool and felt are susceptible to moisture, which can cause cavities to form inside the roller. As a result, such sealing is of little use, and the roller itself wears out quickly. Batting can be recommended as a roller filler and insulation material. Its structure is more uniform.

  • In order to ensure effective protection to prevent heat loss, the roller should extend beyond the edge of the canvas.
  • Accuracy. The rollers should be evenly spaced around the entire perimeter of the door leaf and secured with nails. Chaotic fastening and uneven edges lead to the fact that the rollers quickly become unusable.

The procedure for manufacturing and installing the roller:

  1. We cut out strips of the intended length from the material.
  2. We roll up the material and place the selected seal inside it.
  3. We twist the strip.
  4. We nail the resulting roller to the edge of the canvas so that the loose ends of the bundle are placed inward.
  5. Next, mark the installation location for the next roller and repeat the operation.

Upon completion of the work, we obtain hermetically sealed insulation, which effectively protects against drafts and prevents heat transfer.

Foam insulation

The traditional way to insulate a door is to lay insulation. To insulate inexpensive Chinese doors, cheap materials are used: foam rubber, corrugated corrugated board, mineral wool, polystyrene foam. The most popular insulation material is polystyrene foam.

Advantages of polystyrene foam:

  • Has a homogeneous structure. In it, unlike using mineral wool There are no internal cavities, which provides effective protection against cold air flows.
  • Has excellent thermal insulation properties. The thermal conductivity of polystyrene foam is comparable to isoprolol, and the cost is 6-8 times lower.
  • It is not susceptible to moisture and is able to retain its properties after prolonged exposure.
  • Durability of use.

Results

To achieve optimal results, foam insulation is carried out from the inside and from outside doors. A synergistic effect is achieved by combining and simultaneous use of several insulation methods. This will keep your home warm and cozy.

The first autumn cold has arrived unnoticed, and if in your apartment or country house It’s become uncomfortable like autumn; if you take a close look at the front door and windows, you’ll most likely have to start insulating them. We won’t touch the windows now, let’s talk about the door, since this is where the most problems occur. Especially if the door is wooden and has served for many years.

Insulating a wooden front door is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance: having a simple tool and more or less stable handling skills, your personal desire and our advice will help correct the situation and meet the cold winter with dignity.

So, there are, by and large, only two ways to insulate the front door:

  1. Sealing the door frame in the areas where the door leaf adjoins;
  2. Insulation of the door leaf using thermal insulating materials.

Door seal

To seal the doorway, you will need to purchase a special rubber seal. This sealant, in the form of a tape rolled into a roll, is widely available and inexpensive, and has an adhesive base on one side, which greatly simplifies its installation.

Before going to hardware store or to the market, you should measure your door along the perimeter, the length of which will correspond to the length of the insulation you are purchasing. Pay attention to the width of the folds: folds are the place where the door leaf adjoins the frame, and it is obvious that the width of the insulation should be similar or slightly smaller. Try to determine the width of the slot gaps - the sealing tape, due to its thickness when compressed, should completely cover the gap.

Having the results of simple measurements in hand, you can choose the right rubber seal, which is very easy to install. We seal the doorway in parts - top part along the width of the door, having previously cut off the corresponding piece of tape, then vertical sections along the height of the door and, finally, the lower part. To glue a strip of insulation, you need to carefully press its adhesive side to the folded part, gradually removing the protective paper strip. Make sure that the seal lies evenly, without distortions, along its entire length.