Regarding ceramic blocks, or as they are also called - warm ceramics, there is a lot of controversy on the sidelines of construction. Some extol its virtues to the skies, while others bring us back to earth with their pessimistic moods.
In this article we will try to impartially evaluate all the advantages and disadvantages of this material, and also, using the video in this article for clarity, we will tell you how walls are built from ceramic blocks with brick cladding.
The main goal pursued by the creators of new structural wall materials is to increase the thermal efficiency of walls. A material that allows them to be erected quickly, without increasing their thickness too much and with minimal labor intensity is simply a godsend for any developer. And if at the same time it practically does not need insulation, then it simply has no price!
This is exactly how everything will be arranged with a relatively new look wall block, made from clay, and therefore rightfully called ceramic.
Everyone knows that ceramics are cold material. How did it happen that the thermal conductivity coefficient of a ceramic block is almost equal to that of cellular structural concrete?
Note: The thermal conductivity of the superporous block is equal to that of expanded clay and foam glass - and they are known to be full-fledged thermal insulation materials. In terms of thermal engineering, such walls are not inferior to wood, but at the same time they are much stronger and will last longer.
As for the strength of blocks made of porous ceramics, which skeptics doubt, nodding at the relative fragility of the material, we will always have something to answer them.
Opinion: Glass is also a fragile material, but it is not only used to make internal partitions and stairs, but also manage to completely glaze the facades of houses. Ceramic, like glass, does not like impact, but can be drilled perfectly - despite the thin partitions inside the blocks. And if you don’t hit the walls of the house with a sledgehammer, they certainly won’t be in any danger.
Today, all of the above types of wall ceramics are on sale, including finishing ones. Which ones to buy for building a house, you need to rely on local climatic conditions. It is on them that the thickness of the walls depends, as well as the need for their insulation.
... turns into two additional ones
Also, for the convenience of installing jumpers, you can purchase U-shaped blocks, which are shown in the picture above.
The thickness of the walls of the house is calculated based on what building materials are chosen for it. If this is a block measuring 380*250*219 mm, which, as already mentioned, must be insulated, then the total thickness of the pie for an area with an average winter temperature of -32 degrees will be about 640 mm.
Of them:
Note: The gap inside the wall pie is in this case necessary for ventilation of the insulation. Its presence will not only save the walls from freezing in winter, but will also prevent them from overheating in summer. That is why insulated ventilated facades are the most the best option for residential buildings.
In order for the air to internal space multilayer wall did not stagnate, and it could be ventilated, in brickwork leave vents. These are either quarter-brick windows at the bottom of the wall, or vertical seams unfilled with mortar (every fifth). To prevent insects or rodents from getting into the vents, they are covered with a plastic mesh.
When masonry of ceramic blocks is carried out without insulation - that is, if the brick fits tightly to the ceramic block, a steel mesh is used to bind them together. To connect them at a distance (if there is insulation and a ventilation gap), use fiberglass rods with sand tips, which are embedded in the masonry joints.
By the way, in ceramic block masonry there are only horizontal seams - the vertical edges of the stones are connected through the tight interlocking of the groove and the ridge.
Technologies for constructing walls of a private house are developing in three main directions:
Especially in areas with mild winter more profitable and easier to build a private house with single-layer stone external walls. Modern building materials make it possible to build a single-layer wall of reasonable thickness and required strength that is sufficiently heat-saving for the specified climate.
Compared to two- or three-layer walls, single-layer outer structure stone wall has the following advantages:
For example, in Germany, approximately 50% of private houses are built with single-layer walls made of autoclaved aerated concrete (gas silicate) or porous ceramics. According to this site, 10% of readers chose single-layer walls for their home.
Porous ceramics manufactured from raw materials and in a manner that is similar to the production of conventional ceramic bricks. The difference is that components are added to the clay-based mass, which form pores when fired.
Hollow large-format blocks and bricks are made from porous ceramics. The hollowness further increases the heat-saving properties of products made from porous ceramics.
Masonry of a house wall from large-format blocks of porous ceramics with brick cladding of the facade
The compressive strength of porous bricks is higher than that of blocks. But a brick wall turns out to be more thermally conductive compared to masonry made from large-format blocks. In addition, brickwork is more labor intensive. For low-rise construction up to 3 floors it is more profitable to use large-format blocks rather than porous bricks.
On construction market There are blocks of several standard standard sizes from which single-layer masonry can be made with a thickness of 25, 38, 44 and 51 cm.
When laying the wall, large-format hollow blocks made of porous ceramics Place the long side across the wall. The thickness of the wall is equal to the length of the block.
For single-layer walls, blocks with a masonry thickness of 38, 44, or 51 cm are used. For double-layer walls with facade insulation, the masonry thickness is most often chosen 38, 44 or 25 cm.
A single-layer wall made of large-format blocks of porous ceramics 44 cm thick with masonry on a heat-saving mortar will have a heat transfer resistance of 3.33 m 2 *K/W. Such a wall complies with Russian energy saving standards for private houses located south of the St. Petersburg - Kazan - Orenburg line. North of this border, blocks with a masonry thickness of 51 cm are used, or two-layer walls are chosen from blocks of porous ceramics, with a masonry thickness of 25 - 44 cm and facade insulation mineral wool or heat-insulating slabs made of low-density aerated concrete.
Except blocks standard size, produce small-format additional blocks - halves and blocks of a size convenient for dressing masonry in corners.
Porous large-format blocks, as a rule, have a compressive strength of 75 or 100 kg/m2 (M75, M100). The strength of porous bricks and small-format blocks can be M150, M175.
For construction it is advantageous to choose finished project house, which initially involves laying walls from porous large-format blocks. The horizontal dimensions and height of walls, openings, and piers in such a project will be chosen so that the need for cutting blocks is minimized. It is better to adapt the design of a house with walls made of other materials to walls made of large-format ceramics.
The side surface of ceramic blocks usually has a profiled tongue-and-groove surface, which allows them to be connected without masonry mortar in a vertical seam. This connection facilitates and speeds up the laying, but requires the mason to be careful - the joints of the blocks must be smooth, without gaps or distortions. When laying cut blocks, the vertical joint must be filled with mortar.
To reduce the air permeability (blowability) of the wall, The masonry must be plastered on both sides.
The blocks can be laid using ordinary cement-lime masonry mortar with a joint thickness of 8-12mm. But It is beneficial to use a heat-saving mortar for laying walls made of porous blocks. This solution has lower thermal conductivity than the traditional one.
A wall made of porous ceramic blocks 44 cm thick on a heat-saving mortar will have a heat transfer resistance of 3.33 m 2 *K/W, and when laying on ordinary mortar only 2.78 m 2 *K/W.
A wall built using a heat-saving mortar will cost more, about 10%, than masonry using a traditional composition.
It should also be taken into account that the heat-saving solution reduces the compressive strength of the masonry by approximately 20%. Therefore, the use of heat-saving mortar for masonry walls should be provided for in the project.
Masonry of porous blocks in two-layer walls with facade insulation is usually carried out using traditional cement-lime masonry mortar. A slight increase in the thermal conductivity of the wall in this case is not so critical.
Before laying on the solution The blocks must be moistened with water. This is necessary so that the water from the solution is less absorbed into the ceramics of the block. Otherwise, the solution in the joint will quickly lose water and will not gain strength.
Some manufacturers produce blocks with milled (polished) horizontal edges. This processing makes it possible to achieve minimal deviations in the size of blocks in height, no more than plus or minus 1 mm.
The laying of blocks with milled edges is carried out using an adhesive solution with a seam thickness of 2-3 mm. Installing blocks with glue increases the heat transfer resistance of the wall compared to laying with mortar.
In the European Union countries, laying milled blocks on polyurethane foam glue - foam - is gaining popularity. From regular polyurethane foam the composition is characterized by faster setting and less ability to increase volume. Laying on adhesive foam reduces bearing capacity walls
It should be noted that wall materials for single-layer walls have mediocre both mechanical and thermal properties. We have to improve them with various design tweaks.
A large-format ceramic block is pressed against an already installed block and lowered vertically onto the mortar so that no gap is formed in the vertical seam between the blocks. Hollow ceramic blocks are cut using special stone-cutting saws - hand-held or on a stone-cutting machine.
To lay communications in the masonry of the wall, you have to punch holes - fines. Horizontal and vertical fines along the entire length of the wall or the height of the floor are allowed to be made with a depth of no more than 3 cm. Short vertical fines located in the lower third of the floor height are allowed to be made up to 8 cm deep.
Deeper grooves weaken the wall's masonry. Therefore, their dimensions and location must be indicated in the project and confirmed by calculations. Deep and extended cuts are especially dangerous for walls less than 30 cm thick.
After laying communications, the grooves in the external walls are filled with heat-saving mortar.
Internal walls are bearing, taking the load from the structures lying above - floors, roofs, and self-supporting- partitions.
Domestic load-bearing walls erected simultaneously with the laying of external walls. Load-bearing walls must rest on the foundation. In turn, load-bearing walls serve as support for floors and rafter system roofs.
1 - load-bearing internal wall, 38 or 25 cm; 2 - thermal insulation, 5 cm; 3 - outer wall
Internal load-bearing walls connect with outer wall method of dressing masonry. To do this, insert a block of the inner wall, position 1 in the figure, into the outer wall, position 3, to a depth of 10-15 cm. The blocks are inserted not in each row, but every other row. In the second row of masonry, the inner wall block is simply adjacent to the masonry block outer wall.
Partitions in the house They serve only to separate rooms. They do not bear the load from the overlying structures of the house. The laying of partitions can be done simultaneously with the construction of external walls, but it is more convenient to do this after the construction of the frame of the house.
In any case, the height of the partition should be 2-3 cm below the ceiling so that the ceiling cannot put pressure on the partition. The gap between the ceiling and the masonry of the partition is sealed, for example, with a strip of mineral wool.
Non-load-bearing internal walls and partitions can be connected to external walls using galvanized steel anchors, placing at least 3 pieces in the masonry joints. along the height of the partition.
The basis for partitions made of masonry materials can be a ceiling or concrete screed floor on the ground. The ceiling or other foundation must be designed to bear the load from the weight of the partition. If necessary, provide reinforcement of the base by installing a monolithic reinforced concrete beam under the partition.
The thickness of the masonry is chosen based on need provide the necessary sound insulation between rooms. Solid, without doorways, partitions separating living rooms from other rooms in the house, it is recommended to make it from ceramic blocks with a masonry thickness of 25 cm.
Other partitions are made of ceramic blocks or bricks with a masonry thickness of 12 cm.
To improve sound insulation, vertical joints in the masonry of partitions and interior walls It is recommended to fill with solution.
If the foundation of the house is made of prefabricated concrete blocks, then a monolithic reinforced concrete belt must be installed on top of the blocks. The masonry of walls made of large-format ceramic blocks should be supported by a continuous strip of reinforced concrete.
The thickness of single-layer walls of a house made of large-format blocks is quite large: 38 - 51 cm. To reduce construction costs, the width of the foundation (basement) walls is made smaller than the load-bearing walls of the house. The wide wall of the house overhangs on one or both sides over the narrower wall of the basement. Vertically, the wall of the plinth falls behind the surface of the masonry walls of the house.
Without performing calculations, the width of the plinth wall can be made 20% narrower than the thickness of the masonry made of porous blocks. For example, with a block masonry thickness of 44 cm, the width of the plinth wall can be reduced to 35 cm. Reducing the width of the plinth wall by 30% is allowed, but must be confirmed by the designer’s calculations. The horizontal surface of the wall overhang above the plinth is plastered from below.
For guard ceramic walls at home from splashing water and moisture when snow melts, it is recommended to choose the height of the base above the level of the blind area at least 30 cm.
1 - compensation tape; 2 — seam reinforcement (if necessary); 3 - reinforced concrete belt; 4 - thermal insulation 10 cm; 5 — additional ceramic block; 6 - wall made of ceramic blocks; 7 - pillow from cement mortar not less than 2 cm. 8 - prefabricated monolithic, often ribbed ceiling; 9 - concrete screed 5 cm; 10 - thermal and sound insulation.
At the level of supporting the floors on load-bearing walls made of ceramic blocks, a continuous reinforced concrete belt is installed, pos. 3 in the picture. A continuous belt is installed on top of all load-bearing walls of the house. A monolithic reinforced concrete belt forms a rigid frame that absorbs the vertical and horizontal loads of the floors, as well as the upper floors, and evenly transfers them to the load-bearing walls of the house.
The installation of a monolithic belt is mandatory if the ceiling is made of monolithic or precast concrete. Reinforced concrete belt is also required in seismic hazard areas. The minimum dimensions of a monolithic reinforced concrete belt in section are 150x150 mm.
By the way, you can also use large-format ceramic blocks to install floors in your home.
The length of support of a prefabricated reinforced concrete, prefabricated monolithic or monolithic floor on a wall made of large-format porous ceramic blocks must be at least 125 mm.
Steel and wooden beams prefabricated floors are supported on a monolithic reinforced concrete belt with a width of 150 mm and a height of at least 100 mm. The belt is installed under the ceiling.
IN one-story houses beams wooden floor it is allowed to rest on a masonry of three rows of solid ceramic bricks. There is no need to make a monolithic belt in such houses.
1 - seam reinforcement (if necessary); 2 — additional ceramic block; 3 - thermal insulation 10 cm; 4 - window; 5 - masonry made of large-format ceramic blocks; 6 — reinforced concrete lintels; 7 - reinforced concrete belt; 8—frequently ribbed ceiling; 9 — heat and sound insulation slabs; 10 - concrete screed 5 cm; 11 - compensation tape.
As lintels over window and doorways, item 6 in the figure, it is recommended to use reinforced concrete products— crossbars specially designed for walls made of large-format ceramic blocks. Such lintels have dimensions convenient for placement in the wall and do not require adjustment to adjacent wall elements.
Heat loss through windows can also be reduced by using modern designs. When making heat-saving windows, the number of chambers in a double-glazed window is increased, special glass with a selective heat-reflecting layer is used, and the thickness of the window frame is increased.
It is recommended to install roller shutters on the windows of a private house from the outside. Closed roller shutters not only protect windows from burglary, but in severe frosts they reduce heat loss through the windows, and in the summer heat they reduce overheating of the house sun rays. It is better to foresee the installation of roller shutters on windows in advance, at the design stage of the house.
1 - mauerlat beam; 2 - monolithic reinforced concrete belt; 3 — additional block made of porous ceramics; 4 - masonry of the wall from large-format blocks; 5 - insulation boards
The roof of the house rests on walls made of large-format ceramic blocks through a monolithic reinforced concrete belt, position 2 in the figure. A continuous belt is installed on top of all load-bearing walls of the house. A monolithic reinforced concrete belt forms a rigid frame that absorbs the vertical and horizontal loads of the roof and evenly transfers them to the load-bearing walls of the house.
Walls made of warm ceramics Both the outside and the inside can be plastered with traditional cement-lime plaster.
For interior decoration Gypsum plaster solutions are also used.
Heat-saving plaster can be applied to the facade of the house in a layer of up to 10 cm. This will significantly increase the heat-saving characteristics of the external walls.
The facade of a house made of ceramic blocks is often faced with facing or clinker bricks. There is no need to create a ventilated gap between the wall made of ceramic blocks and the cladding masonry.
Watch the video tutorial on how to properly lay walls from large-format ceramic blocks.
Porous ceramic block for walls.
When building a house in areas with harsh winters, walls made of warm ceramics require additional insulation.
The outside walls are covered with a layer of highly efficient insulation - slabs of mineral wool or extruded polystyrene foam.
Foam glass slabs are glued to the wall masonry. Plaster is applied on top metal grid. The mesh and insulation boards are fixed with dowels to the wall. More expensive ones are used less often foam glass thermal insulation boards with double-sided fiberglass coating. Fiberglass provides good adhesion to cement-sand mortar and other building materials. Compared to traditional insulation, foam glass insulation is more durable, has increased compressive strength, does not get wet, does not burn, is environmentally friendly, is not damaged by rodents, and is vapor-tight.
Thermal insulation slabs made of low-density aerated concrete (gas silicate)- another one, comparatively new material, is gaining popularity for insulating facades. Some manufacturers have learned to make and produce aerated concrete with a density of 200 kg/m 3 or less, with a fairly high strength index.
When insulating walls, at the boundary between masonry and insulation, there is a risk of water vapor condensation and moisture accumulation in the wall.
When insulating walls with polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam or foam glass, it is important to choose the correct layer thickness. If the insulation thickness is too small, steam will condense and moisture will accumulate at the border with the masonry wall. The thickness of the insulation from these materials is selected based on the calculation of moisture accumulation in the wall. Consult local planners on this topic.
When insulating walls with mineral wool or aerated concrete, moisture accumulation in the wall does not occur regardless of the thickness of the insulation.
When choosing a method of finishing a facade, it should be taken into account that the service life of mineral wool and polymer insulation is much shorter than that of brickwork facing. For brick cladding, it is recommended to use a more durable mineral insulation - thermal insulation boards made of low-density autoclaved aerated concrete or foam glass boards with double-sided fiberglass coating, for example, trademark FOAMGLAS® BOARDS WALL BOARD W+F.
Thermal insulation boards made of autoclaved aerated concrete have a density of 100 - 200 kg/m 3 and a dry thermal conductivity coefficient of 0.045 - 0.06 W/m o K. Mineral wool and polystyrene foam insulation. Slabs with a thickness of 60 - 200 mm are produced. Compressive strength class B1.0 (compressive strength not less than 10 kg/m 3.) Vapor permeability coefficient 0.28 mg/(m*year*Pa).
Let us consider in detail why to fill the technological gap between the cladding and the Porotherm block with a solution based on perlite. And so, according to the Porotherm block laying technology, after the block is installed, the outer vertical seam must be carefully covered with mortar. Briefly, why this needs to be done, since masonry with a ceramic porous block is carried out with a groove - a ridge, and the block may not have the correct geometric shape or the worker will not place the block close to each other, then in the place where the groove-ridge will be there will be a gap, in other words, a gap. If you do not seal the vertical seam from the outside, but only plaster it from the inside, then closed convection will not work and the block will lose its thermal efficiency. In order to comply with the rules for laying a block, it was necessary to first raise the wall with a block, and then, when the seams were sealed, begin to lift the cladding. I do it the other way around, raise the lining by 2 - 3 rows of porotherm, then put the block down. This is convenient because you don’t have to install additional scaffolding for masonry work. facing bricks, because both forests and the work to build them cost money.
If you choose the most The right way first lay the block then the cladding, then here are some tips for you:
You may be wondering why I fill the gap with perlite mortar rather than regular mortar or leave it empty altogether? I decided to do this because the manufacturer recommends placing the ceramic porous POROTHERM block on a warm solution, and it is on perlite. I put POROTHERM 44 on a regular solution, but pouring those. I fill the gap with perlite mortar and close the vertical seams, additionally insulate the wall and remove cold bridges.
I made the pouring mixture as follows:
I took 2 buckets of M75 perlite for one batch, my bucket is 12 liters, a 130 liter concrete mixer, 1 bucket of sand, half a bucket of M500 cement, half a bucket of water, maybe more or less, and soap.
Now about the kneading process itself:
Pour water then, turn off the concrete mixer, set it with the hole at the top, carefully (perlite is very volatile), pour out two buckets of perlite, turn on the mixer and put it in the working position, turn for 7-9 minutes (perlite has this property, it first takes up water and begins to clump, then turns into mush) add water if necessary. After the slurry is obtained, fill a bucket of sand (do not mix with sand for a long time), the perlite is mixed with the sand, add cement and mix for no more than 2 minutes, it is no longer recommended that the perlite granules will be broken by the sand and the thermal efficiency will be lost.
Everyone involved in housing construction studies the connections between the level of housing, technical and operational properties building materials and them economic feasibility. POROTHERM blocks made from clay, water and sawdust, which burn out during firing, to create a porous structure - are environmentally friendly, have a high heat capacity and are capable of allowing evaporation to pass through. It's economical wall material large format, which can be used for the construction of even multi-story buildings.
Masonry is a system of masonry elements that are laid in a certain sequence and fastened with mortar. Complete system POROTHERM masonry allows the construction of buildings of any layout, using a variety of architectural forms. In addition to the porous blocks themselves, which have a vertical tongue-and-groove connection, it includes ceramic bridges, beam floor, floor slabs, facing bricks and dry mixtures for mortar and plaster.
Cement-sand or lime-cement mortar, usually used for brickwork, is not recommended for laying large-format POROTHERM blocks, due to the large difference in thermal properties. Otherwise, mortar joints, which are “cold bridges,” will negate the wonderful thermal insulation characteristics porous blocks. It is advisable to use “light” (thermal insulating) masonry mortars - more expensive, but with a higher bonding ability. From 20 kg of dry mixture, if the instructions are strictly followed, you get 30-32 liters ready solution. The consistency should be such that the mortar does not flow into the vertical holes of the bricks.
The thickness of the bed seam for POROTHERM blocks should be, on average, 12 mm - this is enough to equalize permissible deviations in the dimensions of the blocks. If the bed seam is thicker, the strength of the masonry will decrease. The solution must be applied so that the entire block lies on an even layer of the solution. When laying all load-bearing walls, external and internal, which are under static tension, the solution is applied to the entire surface of the bed joint. When laying walls and partitions that do not experience static loads, it is possible to use an intermittent bed seam.
Traditional masonry, with vertical joints filled with mortar, is used for load-bearing (external and internal) walls. The consumption of solution and working time in this option is very significant. Bandaging vertical seams into a “groove-ridge” is more technologically advanced, does not require mortar, and is used for the construction of external thermal insulation walls in one row. The blocks are laid end to end in a horizontal direction. The humidity of the entire masonry is less than with traditional masonry, so the walls dry quickly, acquiring the appropriate strength characteristics and level thermal resistance. Optimal thickness external walls is achieved by laying 510 mm thick POROTHERM blocks in one row. A more economical solution is possible if you use 380 mm thick blocks.
POROTHERM blocks require reliable waterproofing between the wall and the base. To do this, a waterproof solution is applied to the base and laid on top waterproofing membrane(2-3 cm wider than the intended wall). A layer of masonry mortar is applied to the waterproofing, thicker than the bedding mortar, and carefully leveled, starting from the highest place. And on top there is a thin layer of cement to prevent the blocks from immersing in the solution. First, place the blocks in the corners of the walls and connect them with a mooring cord on the outside of the masonry. Next, lay the blocks one after another, end to end along the cord, inserting them from above, along the tongue-and-groove direction. No horizontal displacements are allowed! Cutting blocks up to the right size Produced using a tabletop circular or chain saw. Ceramic blocks should not protrude beyond the foundation by more than 25 mm. After laying the full perimeter, give the first row time to dry, at least 12 hours.
Bonding is the most important static characteristic of masonry. The wall, if properly bandaged, will work as one structural element. Vertical seams between individual blocks in two adjacent rows must be shifted by at least 0.4 h (h is the height of the brick). Thus, for POROTHERM brick blocks with a height of 219 mm, the minimum dressing pitch is 87 mm. The recommended horizontal module of 250x250mm POROTHERM blocks provides a dressing pitch of 125 mm. For bandaging masonry blunt and sharp corners, POROTHERM blocks must be sawed.
Before applying the solution, wet the top surface of the laid row of blocks with water. Apply the bedding mortar over the entire surface of the wall, up to its outer edges, but if it protrudes outward, collect it with a spatula. Start each row by installing corner bricks and continue as described above. Make sure that the distance between the vertical seams of adjacent rows along the wall is 125 mm. Using a level and a plumb line, check the horizontal and vertical alignment of the stacked blocks, knocking them down with a rubber mallet if necessary.
The connection of external walls with internal walls, as well as with partitions, is carried out using perforated steel anchors, which are placed in the bed seams of every second row. Compliance is also important next rule: load-bearing walls must be at least 1 cm higher than the walls not experiencing load.
Since porous blocks and Russian façade bricks have the same multiplicity factor, the masonry of the load-bearing outer wall can be combined with the masonry of a wall made of facing bricks. If the bed joint of the wall masonry is 12 mm, the height of the facade masonry of 3 single face bricks will be equal to the height of the large-format POROTHERM block.
Porous POROTHERM blocks, under construction conditions, should be protected from moisture. The temperature during masonry production should not fall below +5°C. Do not use bricks covered with ice or snow. Must be protected from getting wet finished wall, otherwise water will accumulate in the vertical holes of the blocks, which will take a long time to dry. It is especially important to reliably cover the upper surface of walls and window sills with plastic film or tarpaulin to prevent, in the event of rain, the leaching of fast-soluble mortar substances from the seams.
