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» Do-it-yourself insulation of walls with expanded polystyrene from the outside: video. Polystyrene foam for insulating walls from the outside When is it better to insulate walls from the outside with polystyrene foam

Do-it-yourself insulation of walls with expanded polystyrene from the outside: video. Polystyrene foam for insulating walls from the outside When is it better to insulate walls from the outside with polystyrene foam

The main type of utility expense for residents of the private sector is heating. It’s easy to cut costs by insulating your house with polystyrene foam on the outside with your own hands. This material will not only save you from the cold in winter, but also keep your room cool in summer. In addition, it will maintain the integrity of the walls of buildings. It is possible to do such work with your own hands, you just need to select the right materials and not deviate from the technological map.

Choosing polystyrene foam

Foam plastic is the simplest and most convenient material for use. facade insulation, finishing them external walls won't be difficult. Manufacturers suggest using polystyrene foam in two types of slabs to carry out such work with your own hands:

  • Foamed. It consists of plastic balls filled with air using thermoforming. They are connected using a press or non-press method. Can be of different densities: from 11 to 35 kg/m3. Can be used as insulation for building facades.
  • Extruded. In production, the extrusion technique is used - pressing the molten mass through the molding hole of a special apparatus (extruder) under the influence of high temperatures. The dense, finely porous structure makes the material practically waterproof. Therefore, thermal insulation of the basement, plinth, blind area and foundation does not require additional protection from moisture. For the walls of a private house they are used only with an ideal ventilation system.

Pros and cons of each type

Which material is better? Insulating walls with foam plastic from the outside involves the use of specially designed slabs. The most suitable for DIY installation would be façade polystyrene foam brand PSB-S M-25F. Its density is 25kg/m3. You can purchase material of a higher density, but lower density is not possible. Insulating facades with lightweight polystyrene foam is undesirable; although it costs much less, it loses in design indicators: water resistance, vapor permeability, heat protection, durability.

You can correctly determine the strength of a sheet visually: the smaller and denser the granules, the higher it is. The looseness of the structure is especially clearly visible on the cut. As for the extruded look, it is better to choose slabs with L-shaped edges. Although they are more expensive, they prevent the formation of “cold bridges” that reduce thermal conductivity and destroy the building.

So as not to be deceived and acquire poor quality material, pay attention to the presence of factory markings on the ends of the sheets, fire and sanitary certificates, GOST indicators in the quality passport.

Preparing the building for cladding work

What needs to be done before insulating the facade of a house with polystyrene foam correctly? The first step is to clean the walls from dirt and make them as smooth as possible. Permissible differences from the plane - concavity and convexity - should not exceed two centimeters, so that in the event of an accidental impact, deformation of the sheet does not occur. If possible, the paint from the wall should be completely removed, rust spots. If there are metal parts, coat them with an anti-corrosion agent.

It’s easy to check the wall’s readiness for cladding by running your palm over it. If small particles fall off, you need to continue cleaning the surface. If this does not help, you should prime the surface or apply a thin layer of putty with PVA glue. It is better to apply the primer with a brush, but if it is very liquid, you can use a sprayer.

Finishing the facade with your own hands using ordinary foam sheets does not require preparation. As for extruded ones, they need to be processed for better adhesion to the wall surface. You can use a drywall needle roller, a stiff wire brush, or a simple stationery knife, which is used to cut small grooves. It is even easier to purchase corrugated slabs, but such material is more expensive.

It is advisable to sew up the external slopes with your own hands and install flashings before installing polystyrene foam boards on the façade of buildings. For the first, choose sheets that are thinner than for the main work. The insulation should extend beyond the slopes by about 2 cm. Then use it façade cladding docks quickly and accurately.

You should not cut sheets of expanded polystyrene on slopes flush with the facade wall. It is recommended to leave a protrusion for better joining with the main plates when installing it yourself.

Installing foam boards

The technology for insulating walls with foam plastic from the outside is divided into stages; do-it-yourself installation must be done sequentially.

Stage one - gluing the plates


Finishing begins immediately upon completion of the cladding of slopes and ebbs. How to properly install slabs on glue with your own hands:


It is important to know

When finishing with foam plastic is carried out, standards fire safety require the installation of special fire protection belts made of non-flammable mineral wool around window and door openings.

Stage two - securing with dowels

Before strengthening the insulation, you need to wait until the glue hardens. Otherwise, the sheets along the edges may begin to move away from the wall surface. Then you need to correctly perform the following operations:

  1. They improve the adhesion of the insulation to the wall with the help of mushroom dowels. They are hammered into pre-drilled holes to a depth of at least five centimeters. This must be done so that the dowel head is flush with the surface of the slab. Professionals recommend placing five “fungi” on each edge of the sheet and one in the center.
  2. Nails are driven into the “heads” of the dowels. If the heads stick out a little, you need to trim them with pliers.
  3. If there are gaps in the seams, you need to fill them with strips of polystyrene foam. Small cracks can be foamed with a special compound. Protruding joints are smoothed with a special grater or cut off with a stationery knife.
  4. At the end of this stage, the dowel caps and joints are treated with a special compound.

Stage three - installation of the grid

When insulating the facade with foam plastic with your own hands, you must definitely increase mechanical strength structures using a special facade mesh based on fiberglass. The mesh for reinforcing walls must be chosen dense and hard, and for corners, slopes and decorative parts - soft. It is recommended to strengthen all corner elements of the house with perforated aluminum corners.

After this, glue is applied to the surface of the slabs in a continuous layer approximately two to three millimeters thick. The reinforcing material is fixed at the top, then rolled down and immersed in the adhesive composition with a spatula. Each blade should overlap the adjacent one by about five centimeters, and at the corners you need to bend by no less than fifteen centimeters. The base is reinforced in two layers.

Apply another layer of glue on top of the canvas and carefully smooth the surface. As a result, the mesh should only show through the glue a little.

The final stages include treatment with a primer and subsequent finishing. It is correct to carry them out no less than two days after installing the façade mesh. You can decorate the walls with paintable putty or special plaster. Exist various techniques plastering, such as fur coat or bark beetle.

You should also know that in addition to the wet facade technology, there are also ventilated facades, but the use of polystyrene foam in structures of this type is not recommended, since rising air currents can contribute to the combustion of polystyrene foam.

A warm home is the key to a calm and pleasant life. Many construction technologies, in pursuit of cheapness, miss such a point as protection from the cold. If you are faced with such a problem, then insulating the walls with polystyrene foam yourself will help you make your house warm.

Definition of foam

House insulation with polystyrene foam began to be used relatively recently. Behind short term this material has confidently taken a leading place among other insulation materials. Polystyrene, with its low density, can withstand high mechanical loads.

But main reason The use of polystyrene foam for wall insulation is its high thermal insulation. After finishing your house with this material, you will be able to significantly save on heating. After all, foam plastic perfectly retains heat indoors.

If we compare the thermal insulation of this material with silicate or ceramic bricks, then initially the last material wins here. But when using a 25 cm sheet of insulation, polystyrene foam can replace three rows of bricks. The advantages of the material in question immediately become clear.

Characteristics

For each home you can choose your own type of foam. But the most common models are 15, 25, 35. Markings depend on the thickness of the material in millimeters.

  • Marking 15 is the least dense polystyrene, which has low thermal conductivity and is highly susceptible to various damages.
  • 25. This foam plastic is used in construction for insulating private houses. The material is comfortable to work with. It has good density and protection from mechanical damage.
  • 35. Usually used in those construction sites where significant load is expected. It has high density and good thermal insulation.

Less commonly used is 100 mm foam. Due to its density it can be almost finished wall. This material is usually used to maintain the original temperature in rooms, for example, in above-ground cellars.

Advantages and disadvantages of polystyrene foam

To the main positive aspects Do-it-yourself wall insulation with polystyrene foam includes:

  • excellent thermal insulation properties;
  • high level of moisture resistance;
  • protection from the influence of dangerous microorganisms;
  • simplicity and ease of installation process;
  • good sound insulation.

Naturally, in addition to its advantages, polystyrene foam also has a number of disadvantages. These include:

  • not too high strength indicator;
  • low fire protection;
  • toxic combustion products.

All shortcomings are compensated by the low price and good properties. Insulating walls with polystyrene foam from the inside with your own hands is quite profitable.

First steps and necessary tools for insulating walls outside

As with any job, careful planning needs to be done before starting. First of all, you need to take measurements of the walls and determine the zero point. If you are going to do the insulation of external walls with polystyrene foam yourself, you can ask the suppliers of materials to calculate according to your dimensions required quantity materials and advised what insulation density would be optimal for your home and your region.

At the next stage of planning, you need to stock up on the necessary tools for the job. To successfully insulate a house with foam plastic with your own hands, you need the following materials and tools: polystyrene foam, primer, glue, as well as a mounting profile, fixing foam, reinforced mesh and dowels. From the right tools It’s worth preparing a serrated and smooth spatula, a puncher, a plastic grater, and a hammer would also be useful.

Particular attention should be paid to ensure that the materials are suitable for outdoor use, and also have all the necessary certificates and protective treatment. When necessary funds For insulation of walls with polystyrene foam, assembled with your own hands, you can begin preparatory work.

Preparation of external walls

This stage plays an important role. The thermal insulation of your home depends on the tight fit of the foam. If the structure is new, then no special preparation is required; for old dwellings, a certain technology must be followed. Do-it-yourself insulation of walls with polystyrene foam should begin after preliminary work.

Only after removing all the interference and making high-quality preliminary preparations can you proceed to installing the starting profile.

Start profile

Do-it-yourself insulation of walls with polystyrene foam should start from the bottom. Initially, the lower limit is determined using a level and fixed using a cord. This line is clogged starting profile. Its purpose is to hold the first row of foam in a static position until it is fixed with an adhesive mixture.

Depending on the thickness of the insulation, the starting profile is selected. It is attached to the wall using plastic dowels and nails, as well as screws. Optimal distance between fasteners - 30-35 cm. At the corners it is contraindicated to fix the planks one on top of the other. For proper fastening, it is worth using plastic connectors that will protect the structure from deformation.

Adhesive solution

The next step in insulating walls with polystyrene foam with your own hands will be preparing the adhesive mixture. It is sold in bags anywhere hardware store. The entire preparation process consists of pouring the mixture into a suitable container, adding water according to the instructions and stirring using a construction mixer. It is not recommended to prepare large volumes of glue, as it tends to harden after 1-2 hours.

Beat the mixture at low speed until small lumps disappear completely. Afterwards, let the solution stand for a few minutes and mix again. The optimal container for glue is a large plastic bucket.

Installation of insulation

Depending on the evenness of the wall, there are several methods for applying glue to the foam. In the first case, when the unevenness is up to 2 cm, the method of dotted application of the mixture is used. A retreat of a couple of centimeters is made from the edges of the slab. Using a spatula, place a pair of 2 cm thick beacons in the center of the foam for better adhesion of the entire insulation. Then, with the same thickness, the mixture is applied to the entire slab with slight interruptions to avoid the occurrence of air jams. In the second case, with relatively flat walls, the glue is applied using a notched trowel evenly over the entire surface of the foam.

If you are planning to insulate the walls of your house with your own hands, it is better for you to invite an assistant. One will apply glue to the slab, and the other will place it against the wall. As already stated, installation should begin from the bottom, on a pre-nailed strip. Using one and a half, you need to press the foam evenly over the entire area. The gap between the plates should not exceed 3 mm. If for some reason it turns out to be larger, then the resulting crack is filled with foam or a strip of insulation is added. Excess glue must be removed immediately to avoid the above-mentioned gaps. Each slab should be leveled.

We continue to insulate the walls with foam plastic - we insulate the walls in the middle of the joints of the first level. The indentations must be at least 20 cm. Further work according to the studied scheme will go much faster. You just need to use the recommendations correctly. Insulating walls with polystyrene foam with your own hands will even bring pleasure in the process.

Additional fixation

Glue is not the only means of fastening foam boards. For more durable fixation of the insulation, special dowels are also used. This stage of insulating external walls with foam plastic with your own hands should be started only 3 days after gluing. During this time the mixture should dry.

The dowel should fit 5 cm into the wall. To do this, its length is selected taking into account the thickness of the foam and adhesive solution. The plate is fixed in the corners and in the center. You should first make certain holes in these places. Next, the dowel is inserted until it completely touches the insulation. The next step is to drive the umbrella 1.5-2 cm deep into the slab.

Laying reinforced mesh

Before you start installation reinforced mesh, all seams on the foam should be thoroughly rubbed. A special grater is used for this. Then the entire wall is treated with a primer.

To avoid cracks and ensure a better fit of the plaster, a reinforcing mesh is applied. After the primer has dried, you can begin to work. It is better to start from the corners of the building and slopes. A thin 2 mm layer of the mixture is applied to an area of ​​1 sq.m. A reinforcing mesh is inserted into it using a spatula. If the latter protrudes above the surface, apply another additional layer of plaster mixture. Each section of the mesh is overlapped with each other.

The next step is grouting the seams and priming the entire surface of the insulated house.

Final home insulation procedures

After reinforcement of walls, there may be the following types finishes:

  • siding installation;
  • covering walls with corrugated sheets;
  • painting;
  • decorative plaster;
  • other options.

If decorative plaster or painting is planned, then finishing putty is applied to the reinforced wall. That's it, insulating the walls with foam plastic from the outside with your own hands is completed. Now your house or apartment is reliably protected from any cold. In addition to external walls, foam insulation can also be used indoors.

Insulation inside

Before you start insulating interior walls foam plastic with your own hands, you should take into account such nuances as quality installed windows, openings near slopes. If there are defects and cracks, they should be eliminated first. Bad heating batteries should also be replaced with better ones.

The walls should be prepared in the same way as outside. Remove first old plaster, remove all bas-relief elements, remove screws and nails. Also need to be removed old paint job. If the walls have unevenness, then they must be leveled with a plaster mixture. That is, the main requirement for successfully insulating walls with foam plastic from the inside with your own hands is that the surface must be smooth, clean and dry.

To ensure that the area of ​​the recessed room does not decrease significantly, it is advisable to use foam plastic with a thickness of 20-25 mm. It is most convenient to start installation work from the far corner and, as usual, from the bottom. The last row has to be leveled with pieces of foam plastic. The insulation is installed using screws, 5-6 pieces per slab.

The next step is to hide the seams and caps of the fastening elements. If the gaps between the plates are small, they are filled with foam; if they are large, they are filled with strips of foam plastic.

After the work has been done, you can begin decorating the wall according to the plans.

Features of insulation of different houses

For all its similarity to buildings from different materials There are some nuances to how to insulate the walls of a house with polystyrene foam with your own hands.

Brick house. Probably, in terms of frequency of use, buildings made from this material are the most insulated. Thin brick walls cannot retain enough heat. The cladding of a building can be carried out using different methods. The first is directly on the brick, which makes it possible to save on the plaster mixture. When insulating walls with polystyrene foam is done with your own hands, the price per sq. m. m on average is 325 rubles. Therefore, it is beneficial to first level the walls and then lay the slabs, this will significantly save glue consumption.

Frame house. In such a structure, the insulation must be fixed between the sheathing. It is very important to carry out initial treatment to protect against moisture. For frame house Foam boards with a thickness of 50-150 mm will be optimal. Such insulation will be enough to provide the building with a good energy-saving effect.

Wooden house. In buildings of this type, it is best to insulate the walls with polystyrene foam yourself inside. IN in this case insulation, in addition to its insulating role, also has a soundproofing role. Foam plastic for wooden house used with a thickness of 40-50 mm. During the installation process, a small gap is left between the slabs and the wall, the purpose of which is to protect the wood from excess moisture. You can then lay drywall over the foam or do other finishing work.

Do-it-yourself insulation of walls with polystyrene foam inside an apartment, house or outside a building will allow you to be confident in the quality of the work if you have the talent and dexterity for this. Otherwise, you can always turn to professionals who will carry out the work responsibly and guarantee their quality.

This article is aimed at those people who have decided to insulate their home from the inside with polystyrene foam. Next, I will try to cover in detail all the nuances of this procedure so that you can complete this work as efficiently and effectively as possible.

Is it worth doing internal insulation with foam plastic?

Newbies often ask on forums: is it possible to insulate a house from the inside with polystyrene foam?

To be honest, I am generally against insulating walls from the inside for the following reasons:

  • This operation isolates the walls from internal heating, as a result of which they stop heating. This even leads in some cases to the appearance of cracks on the walls;

  • The dew point moves towards the room, as a result of which moisture forms between the insulation and the wall. This also negatively affects the durability of the walls;
  • the floor and ceiling come into contact with the cold walls, as a result of which it serves as a cold bridge. Is it true, this disadvantage appears only if the ceiling is concrete, because concrete, as is known, has high thermal conductivity;
  • house insulation, although insignificant, still reduces usable area inside the home. For small houses, for example, garden ones, this drawback can also be critical.

Therefore, most often the walls are insulated indoors if it is not possible to perform this operation outside or, for example, it turns out that external thermal insulation not effective enough.

As for foam plastic, this insulation is also not best choice For internal thermal insulation for several reasons:

  • expanded polystyrene is a fire hazardous material;

  • in the event of a fire, the foam releases toxins, which leads to poisoning of people inside the building;
  • has zero vapor permeability, as a result of which, after insulation, the walls stop “breathing”. Therefore, housing needs high-quality thermal insulation.

A good alternative to polystyrene foam is extruded polystyrene foam, which is often fireproof due to the presence of a fire retardant in its composition.

Therefore, I do not recommend insulating permanent residences with foam plastic. But if you need to insulate country house, which is used from time to time, or a balcony, then in general polystyrene foam is a good option.

The fact is that, for all its shortcomings, it also has some important advantages:

  • low price - you can find polystyrene foam at a price of 1500-2000 rubles per cubic meter;
  • excellent thermal insulation qualities - the thermal conductivity of expanded polystyrene is even lower than that of its competitor - mineral wool.

Frame insulation of walls and ceilings

There are two ways to perform foam insulation from the inside of walls and ceilings:

  • frame;
  • wet.

First of all, we will consider the frame method of insulation. In my opinion, it is the most optimal, as it allows you to level out some of the shortcomings of internal thermal insulation.

This process includes four main steps:

Preparation of materials

So, to insulate the house frame method you will need:

  • polystyrene foam - preferably with a low density (15 kg/m3), since it is cheaper and also has lower thermal conductivity;
  • antifungal agent;
  • waterproofing film;
  • wooden slats;
  • parts for assembling the frame - metal profiles and hangers, as when installing drywall;
  • material for covering the frame.

Preparing walls and ceilings

Before you insulate the walls with foam plastic from the inside, you need to prepare them as follows:

  1. first of all, free the surface of the walls from shelves, cabinets and other parts that will interfere with work;
  2. if there is any on the walls old finish, which peels off and crumbles, it must be removed;

  1. then treat the surface with an antifungal compound. To do this, you can use a paint roller or brush. You can find out the details of this work from the instructions on the package.

The ceiling is prepared according to the same scheme.

Insulation and installation of the frame

Now you can begin to insulate the walls.

Instructions for performing this operation look like this:

  1. To prevent moisture from accumulating between the insulation and the wall, a ventilation gap should be created. To do this, you need to fix the slats on the wall, placing them horizontally.

The thickness of the slats should be one and a half to two centimeters. As for the width, it should be such that you can subsequently attach hangers to the sheathing.

The slats should form several belts in half-meter increments, as shown in the diagram above. In addition, make a horizontal gap of several centimeters between the slats;

  1. polystyrene foam for insulating walls inside the house, although to a lesser extent than mineral wool, still absorbs moisture. Therefore, I recommend protecting the material with a waterproofing film.
    To do this, secure it tensioned to the slats. To fix the film on the sheathing, you can use a stapler.

It must be said that when insulating the ceiling, there is no need to create a ventilation gap; in addition, there is no need to use a waterproofing film.

  1. after this you need to indicate the position of the profiles on the walls and ceiling using straight lines. To apply them, you can use a painter's cord or a building level and chalk.
    The lines are drawn in increments of 60 cm. In this case, you need to retreat 10 cm from the corner;

  1. on the resulting lines it is necessary to indicate the locations of the suspensions at a distance of half a meter from each other;
  2. Now, according to the markings, you should install the hangers. As a rule, they are secured with dowel nails. During the installation process, make sure that the suspension is positioned strictly perpendicular to the profile lines;

  1. Now you can insulate the wall and ceiling. To do this, you simply need to pin the slab onto hangers, having previously made cuts for them.
    To fix the slabs to the ceiling, you can use foam glue or dowels. On walls, as a rule, the insulation is simply supported by hangers; subsequently it will be pressed down by the racks. However, it is temporarily possible to fix the slabs on the strips with self-tapping screws and wide washers;

  1. after this the frame is assembled. First, I recommend fixing the guide profiles to the ceiling and floor, as with a standard frame assembly for drywall. To ensure that the profiles are located at the same level, after installing the guide on the ceiling, draw a line on the floor using plumb lines;
  2. then the racks are inserted into the guides and fixed in the hangers using self-tapping screws;

  1. After this, along the perimeter of the ceiling, you need to install guides on the walls in a horizontal position. Next, profiles are inserted into these guides and fixed in suspensions on the ceiling.

Keep in mind that ceiling profiles may bend, so they should be leveled during installation. To do this, you can even stretch the threads between the outer profiles.

The frame can be made not only from metal profiles, but also wooden beams. In this case, the insulation is inserted into the space between the racks.

This completes the insulation. Now the last stage remains - this is the sheathing of the frame. For these purposes, you can use drywall, lining, plastic or other materials.

I will not describe this procedure, since you can familiarize yourself with it from other articles on our portal.

Wet insulation

Now I will tell you how to insulate a house with foam plastic inside by gluing it, i.e. wet method. This technology also includes several steps:

Preparation of materials

First of all, I note that to insulate walls and ceilings using the wet method, it is advisable to use denser foam than for insulation using frame technology. The fact is that in this case the material will not only insulate the walls and ceiling, but also perform load-bearing function, and also absorb all shock loads. Therefore, the best option is polystyrene foam with a density of 25 kg/m3.

In addition to insulation, you will also need:

  • adhesive for polystyrene foam, for example, Ceresit CT85. The same composition can also be used for rough plastering of insulation.
  • fiberglass mesh;
  • primer;
  • putty for walls and ceilings.

Installation of insulation

We will omit the process of preparing the walls, since I have already talked about it. The only thing I note is that before installing the insulation, the walls need to be primed using a brush or roller. Moreover, the primer is applied in two layers with a time interval so that the first layer has time to dry.

The instructions for installing foam plastic look like this:

  1. First of all, you need to prepare the glue. To do this, pour it into a bucket, fill it with water and mix thoroughly. The solution should have a dough-like consistency;
  2. then apply the adhesive solution to the entire surface of the slab, and then give it a relief with a notched trowel;

  1. Now place the first slab against the wall. Start installation from the bottom of the corner.
    Press the plate against the wall and adjust its position according to the level;
  2. then install the stove in the same way near the opposite corner and adjust it according to the level;

  1. After this, stretch a thread between the two plates so that the intermediate plates can be aligned with it. To do this, tie a thread to two nails, and then insert the nails into the ribs of the foam boards. As a result, the thread should pass strictly along the ribs;
  2. then glue all the intermediate plates;

  1. You should start gluing the second row from half of the slab in order to move the vertical seams. As a result, the insulation should be staggered.
    Further installation is carried out according to the same principle as pasting the first row. The only thing is to make sure that there are no vertical deviations of one row relative to the other. Thanks to this, the walls will be smooth;
  2. Using the same principle, you need to glue the insulation to the ceiling;
  3. After the glue hardens, the foam plastic must be additionally secured with dowels. Fasteners must secure the foam in the corners, as well as in the center.

Thus, 5-6 fasteners are required per slab. To save dowels, they can be placed at the joints of the slabs. Thus, one cap will fix several slabs at once.

The process of installing fasteners is quite simple - you need to drill a hole to the required depth, then insert the “umbrella” itself and hammer a nail into it. The nail is driven in so that the head is slightly recessed into the insulation.

At this point, the installation of the thermal insulation material is completed.

Preparing for rough finishing

Preparation for rough finishing is carried out as follows:

  1. Be sure to fill any gaps between the foam with adhesive foam or scraps of insulation;
  2. if there are differences at the joints, rub them with a special grater;
  3. all recesses created after installing the fasteners must be filled with glue;

  1. existing external corners must be protected from chipping and damage with perforated plaster corners . Glue them with glue and level them.

Rough finish

Now all that remains is to do the rough finishing of the ceiling and walls with your own hands, which is done like this:

  1. First prepare the reinforcement mesh. It needs to be cut into strips according to the height of the room and the width of the ceiling.
    Please note that the canvases on the walls and ceiling should overlap each other by 7-10 centimeters. In addition, the mesh must be wrapped at the corners;
  2. then prepare the glue and apply it with a notched trowel to an area equal to the size of one strip of mesh;

  1. Next, attach the mesh to the surface treated with glue, align it vertically (you can do it by eye), and run a wide spatula over it from above. In the process of ironing the canvas with a spatula, the mesh will be completely covered with protruding glue. The result should be a flat and smooth surface;

  1. When the adhesive composition has completely dried, it must be applied in a second layer about 3 mm thick. This will further protect the insulation from mechanical damage, as well as eliminate minor surface flaws;
  2. after the glue has dried, the walls and ceiling need to be primed again;

  1. To complete the work, you should putty the walls and ceiling. If the surface is smooth enough, use finishing putty, which is applied in a thin layer.

If the level of differences exceeds several millimeters, use starting putty.

At this point, the insulation of the ceiling and walls from the inside with foam plastic is completed.

A few words about floor insulation

Polystyrene foam can be used to insulate not only walls and ceilings, but also floors.

Moreover, there are two technologies for using it for these purposes:

  • dry – used for floors on joists;
  • wet - allows you to insulate a concrete floor.

Floor insulation on joists

To insulate the floor on the joists, you need to prepare the following materials:

  • polystyrene foam - you can use low-density boards, for example, 15 kg/m3;
  • waterproofing film;
  • wood antiseptic.

The work is carried out like this:

  1. if there is flooring on the floor, it must be dismantled;

  1. if there is no subfloor between the joists, it must be done. To do this, fasten the cranial bars to the joists and lay the slats on top of them;
  2. all details wooden structure treat with an antiseptic;
  3. then cover the joists and subfloor with waterproofing film;
  4. after that, fill the space between the joists with foam plastic;

  1. Lay another layer of waterproofing on top of the joists and foam plastic;
  2. to complete the work, lay boards on the joists standard scheme.

Insulation of concrete floors

To insulate a concrete floor with polystyrene foam, prepare the following materials:

  • Styrofoam - use the thickest brand for these purposes, i.e. PSB-S-35, since it has the greatest strength;
  • waterproofing film;
  • materials for pouring screed.

The insulation process looks like this:

  1. First prepare the base - clear it of debris and dust. You also need to remove areas that have crumbled and contain a sharp surface that can break through the film;
  2. Next, cover the floor with film, making sure to wrap it at the corners. Tape waterproofing joints;
  3. Lay polystyrene foam on top of the waterproofing. At the same time, try to ensure that there are no gaps between the plates;

  1. then cover the insulation with another layer of waterproofing;
  2. Now you need to pour the screed on top of the film according to the standard scheme. The only thing I recommend is to reinforce it with fiber, since the mesh can tear the waterproofing during installation.

This completes the insulation of the house.

Conclusion

From this article, you learned about all the main nuances of insulating a home from the inside with polystyrene foam, so you can safely get to work. I recommend watching the video in this article. If you have any questions, write in the comments, and I will be happy to answer you.

How to insulate walls with foam plastic from the outside
If the walls of a house are not able to retain heat, then no ultra-modern heating systems will be able to warm it up. At low temperatures in the room, the humidity rises sharply and fungus and mold quickly develop, affecting not only things and furniture, but also the building itself. Experts say that up to 30% of heat is lost through walls, so you should take care of their insulation in a timely manner.

Features of working with foam plastic
Foam plastic is one of the most popular and inexpensive materials. It is an excellent heat insulator, is not afraid of moisture, does not rot and is easy to cut using simple tools. However, this material very quickly loses its properties under the influence of ultraviolet radiation, so walls lined with foam plastic are never left open.

Another significant disadvantage of polystyrene foam is its flammability. That is why it is most often used in so-called wet façade systems, when a layer of foam plastic is covered with a layer of plaster fixed to a reinforcing mesh. This technology has gained great popularity due to its ease of finishing and low cost.

Important! Any tree is capable of absorbing and evaporating moisture, i.e. "breathe". Polystyrene foam has low vapor permeability, so it is not used for cladding a wooden house. In this case, it is better to use glass or basalt wool.

Finishing the house with polystyrene foam followed by coating with plaster (wet facade system)


“Wet” façade system with a decorative layer of plaster

Consumables

To cover walls with foam plastic you will need:
primer: saving is inappropriate here, it will not only reduce glue consumption and prevent the development of fungus, but also strengthen the surface and improve adhesion;
insulation: when laying polystyrene foam, part of the slab is spent on trimming, so for 1 sq. m of facade will need about 1.05 sq. m. m of polystyrene foam; its thickness depends on the climate zone;
glue;
6 mm dowels for fastening the profile;
dowels-umbrellas (“fungi”): for 1 sq. m will need 5-8 pcs.;
basement (for the bottom of the wall) and corner profiles;
reinforcing mesh: 1.35 sq. m per 1 sq. m of facade; It is better to take a mesh with a density of 140-160;
foam cutting knife;
building level;
putty knife;
plaster: its consumption is indicated on the packaging, but it should be noted that processing the slopes will take another 10%;
paint for facade works;
scaffolding, ladder, construction trestles or platforms.

Preparing the walls

Even perfectly styled thermal insulation material will not help to avoid heat loss in the presence of open air channels. Therefore, before starting work, you should carefully plaster or fill with foam all existing cracks. So that the solution can penetrate inside, they are first expanded to the required size.

To detect peeling sections of the wall, you should tap. The crumbling plaster, layers of soot and mold are removed with a metal brush. You can also use a special attachment for an angle grinder. To ensure that the foam lays flat, parts of the wall that are too protruding are knocked down. Grease stains are treated with a solvent. On painted oil paint On walls, to improve adhesion, it is better to make small notches with an ax.

Priming the walls

Concrete and brick walls are best treated with epoxy compounds for exterior use, which can penetrate deeply into the surface of the walls. For priming, you can also use mineral acrylic mixtures for building facades, which provide good adhesion.


Primer of walls

Glue selection

You can glue foam plastic to any walls: concrete, brick, plywood, etc. Before starting work, it is better check the quality of the glue. To do this, coat a small sheet with it, press it against the wall for a few seconds and leave until completely dry. If, after drying, the foam does not come off the wall well and small pieces remain on it, then the glue is of high quality and was chosen correctly.

Important! You should carefully study the instructions for use: the glue must be frost and moisture resistant.

To work with foam plastic, you can use any facade adhesives, silicone sealants or liquid nails. Polyurethane foam is used for tile joints. The composition for fastening foam plastic should not contain organic solvents (acetone, gasoline, ethers, etc.).

The most suitable glue is special composition for gluing foam plastic. There are several varieties of it:
1. Universal for foam, which is suitable for both gluing and reinforcement.
2. Glue for gluing. It has high plasticity and stickiness; when used, foam sheets do not slip during the drying process.
3. Adhesive for foam reinforcement: has high strength, but less ductility.


Bonding foam

Wall marking

Alignment at angles is not always possible, because they may have slight deviations. It is better to do the marking in the old fashioned way: using plumb lines (beacons). A load is tied to a string suspended on a dowel at a distance of 5-7 mm from the wall. After it stops swinging, the string is secured.

If irregularities are found that prevent the string with the load from lying flat, they need to be knocked down. You can apply glue or construction foam. Transverse (horizontal) markings can be applied using a hydraulic level and strings.


Aligning the wall with beacons

Setting up a starting profile

To support the slabs, a metallic profile. In addition, it is able to protect the foam from mice that like to live in the foam.

The profile size is selected according to the thickness of the insulation. Fastening is done with 6 mm dowels with washers at intervals of 30-40 cm. The corners of the profile are joined using the method of oblique cuts or using a corner connector.


Attaching the starting profile

Methods of applying glue

You can stick the sheet in the following ways:
at uneven walls it is better to apply a fairly large layer of glue around the perimeter of the sheet, as well as in several places in its center;
Using a notched spatula, spread the glue in a small layer evenly over the entire sheet; in this way, foam plastic is glued to smooth walls;
special glue for foam plastic, sold in cylinders, is applied around the perimeter and center of the sheet.

Foam insulation

Before starting work walls must be dry. If you glue polystyrene foam onto damp walls that have not dried out after winter, the adhesive joint will not be strong. When working in the summer heat, differences in day and night temperatures will also have a detrimental effect on the strength of the adhesive composition that has not yet dried.

All work should be carried out in the spring, about a week after the heating in the houses is turned off. You can glue foam plastic in the fall, when the ambient temperature drops to +17-18°C. You should not start work in warm, windy weather, as the glue will set too quickly.

It is not recommended to use foam that is too brittle: it is better to choose a material with a density of 20 kg/m3. The thermal insulation of denser sheets is less, so it is better not to use them for insulating external walls.


Finishing order

You can start gluing the foam one day after applying the primer. The slabs are laid with the long side of the sheet down, starting from the bottom corner. The second row should be offset, as when laying bricks (see photo). To do this, the first sheets of odd rows adjacent to the corners are cut in half. The most convenient to use are slabs measuring 0.5×1 m and 5 cm thick.

The gaps between the sheets are sealed with foam. Too much large gaps Can be sealed with styrofoam scraps.


Styrofoam gluing scheme

Additional foam fixation

For this purpose, “umbrellas” are used - special dowels for foam plastic having a plastic head. Their length is selected taking into account the thickness of the slabs. Metal fastenings, which can damage fragile plastic, are not used. In addition, the metal has a different expansion coefficient.


Dowels for foam plastic

To install dowels in a wall covered with foam plastic, holes of appropriate depth are made into which the dowels are inserted. They should fit into the foam by 1.5-2 mm.


Holes for dowels

The “umbrellas” are attached using an envelope: at the corners of the sheet and in the center. Thus, to secure each sheet you will need 5 dowels. The dowels must be included in concrete base to a depth of 50 mm, in brick wall by 90 mm. For example, when the width of the foam is 8 cm, “umbrellas” measuring 13-17 cm are used. After inserting them, they are additionally tapped with a rubber hammer so that each of them is recessed into the foam by a couple of millimeters.

Creation of a decorative and protective layer

A day after laying the foam, it is leveled using a grater. The corners of the house are additionally protected using reinforced mesh with a corner. It is attached with glue and pressed tightly to the jamb with an angle spatula.


Foam grout

Important! Walls insulated with foam plastic should not be left unfinished for a long time. Even after 2 weeks ultra-violet rays are already capable of damaging its top layer. If this does happen, the damaged surface is removed with a grater, and only then the wall is lined with a mesh.


Reinforced corner and corner spatula

Reinforcement of walls insulated with foam plastic is done using a mesh with 3-5 mm cells. The mesh is cut into strips of the required width. A special reinforcement adhesive is applied to the wall so that the mesh is buried in it. Its edges are secured last. After fixing the mesh to the wall with a spatula, it is leveled and excess glue is removed. Too much of it can lead to cracking.


Applying reinforced mesh

The second layer of glue is applied only after the first has dried. After 3 days, the reinforced layer is primed, plastered, and then a layer of façade paint is applied to the wall.