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» Types of connections of wooden parts. How to splice rafters along the length: analysis of options and technological rules. Gluing and fixing with clamps

Types of connections of wooden parts. How to splice rafters along the length: analysis of options and technological rules. Gluing and fixing with clamps

All photos from the article

Sometimes, when carrying out construction and other work using wood, it is necessary to make elements longer or wider, but very few people know how to do this correctly. That is why we will look at how to splice boards yourself and what methods and techniques exist. It is important to choose the option that is best suited in a given situation and requires minimal investment of time and money.

Basic workflow requirements

Before we begin to consider specific options for carrying out work, it is necessary to understand what factors will ensure that we obtain the expected result:

Quality of material Everything is simple here: it is impossible to make durable structures from low-quality wood, especially with regard to joints; if they have knots, damage from woodworms, mold and other problems, then there can be no question of any reliability and durability. Choose the most best elements so as not to waste energy and money
Humidity Another the most important parameter, which should always be taken into account. Only dry elements are suitable for work, since high humidity, firstly, it reduces strength, and secondly, it reduces adhesion adhesive composition when using it, and thirdly, after completion of the work, no one will give a guarantee that in a week or month the structure will not move or it will not crack
Connection Loads The choice of one or another connection option largely depends on this indicator; the greater the load, the higher the requirements for the quality of the connection and the more complex the process. Therefore, decide in advance which option will be used to ensure a good result.
Using a quality tool A lot also depends on this, especially when it comes to complex options when the connection is cut with special devices. They must provide maximum cutting quality and maximum accuracy docking, since reliability largely depends on this

Important!
Remember one simple rule that experts always use: to get best result It is necessary that the parameters of the elements being connected are similar; in other words, the same type of wood must be used.

Work options

All events of this kind can be divided into two large groups - joining boards in width and length; we will consider them separately and tell you which techniques are the most popular and how to implement them correctly.

Width connection

Of course, the simplest solution would be a panel splice option, so we will start with it, first present a diagram of the main options, and below we will describe them in detail:

  • The first method involves cutting out a cavity using a milling machine, which has a trapezoidal shape and allows the use of a key as a retainer.. The advantage of this solution can be called reliability, and the disadvantage is the need for milling machine or the presence of a manual milling cutter to carry out the work, hand tools you can't get by here;
  • Joining using an end block, which is connected to the ends of the board using the tongue-and-groove method, is used for elements of short length, since this option ensures high reliability of small structures. Again you will need it for work. With its help, it will be carried out quickly and efficiently;
  • You can make a cutout along the end, fit a strip under it and place it on wood glue, it's also pretty interesting option, which is suitable for small-sized structures;
  • The last two options involve gluing a triangular strip, only one of them cuts into the end, and the second option involves cutting the end at an angle, you need to choose what is best suited in a given situation.

But if you want to connect the board more securely, then one of the following methods will do:

  • The first option is called a smooth joint, which requires very careful grinding of the ends for a tight fit, after which they are lubricated with glue and connected under a press or using special ties. This solution is suitable in cases where high load bearing capacity need not;
  • Used frequently traditional version groove-ridge, here it is important to ensure the optimal configuration of the connection, so the width of the groove and, accordingly, the tongue should not be more than a third of the total thickness of the board, it is important to do the cutting very accurately so that the elements match perfectly, this will significantly increase the strength of the connection;

Important!
When working, a milling cutter is most often used, but cutters can have different configurations; you should monitor the condition of their cutting edges and sharpen or replace them in a timely manner, since the quality of the connection largely depends on the cleanliness of the processing.

  • You can use the option of cutting at an angle; it is well suited where special strength is not required, but elements that can be used for finishing, etc. need to be well connected;
  • The triangular tongue and groove is in many ways similar to a regular one, only the configuration of the ends differs. It is also important here that the elements fit perfectly together, as this will ensure both the accuracy of the pairing and its maximum reliability;
  • The quarter connection is simple - cuts are made at half the thickness, the length of the protrusions should not greatly exceed the thickness, the elements are lubricated with glue and compressed until the composition dries, this is a standard procedure for almost all options;
  • The last type is keyed joining, it does not differ from the option described above when carrying out work along the width, the requirements are the same.

Conclusion

Connecting the board correctly and securely means ensuring its maximum strength; it is important to follow all recommendations and use only high-quality materials. The video in this article will show some options for carrying out the work visually, and if you have questions or additions, please leave a comment.

Carpentry, construction and furniture products consist of various parts connected to each other in one way or another and mostly immovably. In some parts of collapsible and folding furniture, detachable connections are also used.

A part - a block, a board (plot), a shield - as the primary element of the product can be made from one piece of wood, from two or several pieces pre-glued together, and can also be veneered.

The connection of two or more parts forms a unit - a shield, a frame, a box, which are the structural elements of the product. From interconnected parts and assemblies, a simple carpentry product or a separate part of it is obtained - a plant, an assembly.

The parts are connected to each other by carpentry, glue or metal fasteners.

According to GOST 9330-60 "Wooden parts. Basic connections", the following groups of connections are distinguished:

  • by lenght- parts adjacent to each other at their ends; this connection is carried out by splicing or building up parts;
  • along the edges(coalescing) - two or more elements to obtain a wide detail;
  • corner end- parts converging at one angle or another to form the majority structural elements construction and furniture products;
  • angular median- a connection of elements, of which one either adjoins its end to the middle of the other (adjacency), or intersects it at one angle or another (intersection) to form basically shields;
  • box corner(box knitting) - wide elements; such connections are used when assembling boxes, boxes, etc. They can be end and middle (adjacent).

The simplest product or part is formed from conjugated elements complex product(unit), depending on the purpose of which the method of connecting elements.

Splicing and extension. Due to the relatively short length of joinery parts, not exceeding the usual length of the boards and bars used, splicing and building up in joinery work is used mainly only in the manufacture of joinery and construction products (handrails, cornices, plinths, etc.), as well as when replacing unusable parts parts are new.

Splicing and extension is performed:

  1. end to end when the elements are connected to each other with flat-cut ends at right or oblique angles;
  2. overlay half a tree (Fig. 181, a);
  3. round spikes, flat and oblique dovetail type (Fig. 181, b);
  4. wedge lock(Fig. 181. c).

Bonding is used mainly for connecting narrow elements in order to obtain a part of greater width; much less often, bonding serves to increase thickness. The front sides of the product are veneered - covered with valuable wood. When bonding, the following methods of connecting elements are used:

  1. Into a smooth puffer on glue(Fig. 182, a), which consists in the fact that the parts are tightly jointed with edges one to another and then glued together. After this, the parts are placed in special devices (workbenches, clamps, presses), compressed using screws, wedges, etc. and left in a compressed position until the glue dries. When compressed, excess adhesive is squeezed out along the joint line.
  2. On spikes and dowels(Fig. 182, b, c), when nests are cut out or holes are drilled in the edges of tightly jointed parts. into which rectangular spikes or round dowels are inserted. The thickness of the tenons should not exceed 1/3 of the thickness of the parts being connected.
  3. At a quarter(Fig. 182, d), when in the edges of the parts to be connected up to half their thickness and the same width are selected, longitudinal grooves - quarters.
  4. To the tongue(Fig. 182, d), in which a groove is selected in the middle in the edge of one part - a tongue of 1/3 thickness, and a ridge corresponding to the groove is selected in the edge of the other. The tongue and groove can be rectangular or trapezoidal (dovetail).
  5. On the rail(Fig. 182, e), which differs from a tongue-and-groove connection in that grooves are selected in the edges of the parts to be connected into which the lath is inserted.
  6. On dowels(Fig. 182, g), consisting in the fact that trapezoidal grooves tapering upward and along the length with a depth of 1/3 of the thickness of the board are selected in the parts to be connected. Dowel bars with a beveled edge corresponding to the profile of the selected groove are hammered into the grooves. In addition to holding the elements together, such a connection also serves as a means of protecting the shields from warping.
  7. To the tip(Fig. 182, h, i), which consists in the fact that on end edge of the shield, processed in the form of a tongue-and-groove of a triangular, rectangular or other profile, a block is glued. This connection is used to protect panels from warping and to cover the end, which is difficult to clean and finish.

Joining into a smooth fugue using glue can be done with both parallel and non-parallel edges of the boards being joined. The latter connection is more economical in terms of material consumption, since boards with edges sawn along the rung of the tree are used, but it is less beautiful and more difficult to implement.

Joining on tenons and dowels is usually performed without gluing, mainly to connect parts or parts of a product lying on top of each other in order to prevent their displacement. Performing this type of rallying, especially on spikes, presents some difficulties.

Joining in a quarter, in a tongue and groove and on a lath with glue is stronger, joining in a smooth fugue, as it gives large area gluing. Racking on a batten is more profitable than in a quarter or tongue, because the wood is not spent on forming a quarter or tongue, and the batten itself is usually made from waste.

The best and most durable look joining - connection with a trapezoidal tongue ("stitching"). Making such a connection with hand tools is extremely difficult and is rarely used. For this purpose, special stitching machines are currently used, receiving wide application in the production of furniture and packaging. A trapezoidal tongue connection can be made with non-parallel edges in both the longitudinal and transverse directions, which allows full use unedged boards with escape, giving a significant escape with other methods of rallying. The boards are arranged alternately in different sides the core side and the butt end, which prevents warping of the shield as a whole.

Corner connections. Connecting parts at an angle, i.e. knitting corners, is the most common type of connection in carpentry. The forms of these compounds are very diverse; they can be divided into two main groups: frame and box.

There are the following methods of corner connections:

  1. Overlay(Fig. 183, a), which is the simplest, but at the same time the least durable of all corner joints. At the end of each part to be joined, wood is selected up to half its thickness.
  2. Straight frame tenon(Fig. 183, b, c, d), which is the main type of corner connection of various parts in carpentry. Thorn- part of a bar or part is included in nest, selected in another bar or part. Shish is usually obtained by processing the end of a block. In accordance with the required joint strength, which depends on total area surfaces to be glued, the frame tenon is made single, double or triple. The socket into which the spike is inserted is open on one side (blind socket) and on both sides (through socket). A hole open on three sides is called eyelet or
  3. eyelet. The nest is in the middle part of the bar, and the eye is at its end. A through socket is usually made in cases where the product is painted with opaque paint, while a blind socket is made when the outer front side must be clean. If it is undesirable to have the end end of the tenon open, then instead of an eye they make a blind nest with darkness, that is, with a narrowed tenon. This hides defects when making a socket and increases the strength of the corner joint, since the tenon is clamped on four sides, and not on two sides, as in an eyelet.
  4. Oblique thorn"dovetail" (Fig. 183, e) - the connection is more durable than with a straight tenon. The tenon and eye are not sawed parallel to the edges of the bars; The base of the tenon is made equal to 1/3, and the end - 3/5 of the thickness of the bar.
  5. On the dowels(Fig. 183, g, h, i), when the ends of the bars are cut at an oblique angle. Bars of both the same and different widths and converging at any angle can be connected to the miter. To increase the strength of the connection, it is made halfway across the tree with a slotted or blind tenon (on a mustache with a hidden tenon), and sometimes with an inserted open or hidden tenon.

Trimming corner joints in bars with figured processed edges (mouldings) are made in two ways: the tenon joint is processed rectangular shape with trimming the figured part into a miter or making a tenon joint according to the profile of the bars being connected. The first method, which is simpler (but produces a less durable connection), is applicable when manual processing, the second is used for machine processing of parts, ensuring the necessary accuracy of execution.

Nodal connections in products painted with opaque paint are strengthened with wooden nails (pins) driven into drilled holes.

Adjacent connections(Fig. 184) are a type of corner joint: the end of one bar is adjacent to the middle part of the other. They are made with an overlay (half-tree), with a straight and oblique tenon, through or semi-secret. Sometimes connections are made on inserted round tenons (dowels).


Rice. 185. Box corner connections: a - straight open spike; b - oblique open spike; c - open dovetail spike; g - into the tongue on the insert rail; d - into a tongue and groove with an open and closed end; e - on insertable flat and round tenons; g - with a dovetail spike; h - with a hidden dovetail tenon; and - on the mustache with an insert strip; k - on a mustache with a comb; l - with glued boss

Box corner joints(Fig. 185) boards or panels are widely used in carpentry and furniture. They are made with straight and oblique tenons of the “dovetail” or “frying pan” type. The number of spikes depends on the width and thickness of the parts or shields being connected. There are tenons at the ends of both connected parts, and the shield - the part with the eyelet on the edge of the edge - has one more tenon than the corresponding adjacent part.

Box connections They can be through, deaf, semi-recessed and deaf with a clear mustache. Through connections are used for parts located inside the product, also on its front sides if they are covered with plywood or opaque paint. Parts that are open only on one side are connected in a semi-flush manner, and parts that are open on all sides are connected in a recessed manner. Box corner joints are also made with plug-in tenons, but such joints are the least durable.

Box connections(Fig. 186) are made with straight through tenons and grooves with a ridge: triangular, rectangular, trapezoidal (reward). Groove connections are used in cases where outside It is undesirable to have protruding ends.

Glue connection. In carpentry and furniture production, adhesive joints are used relatively widely. The connection with glue alone is strong enough, provided that the parts are properly fitted and properly glued together.

This method is used not only for joining parts into a board with a smooth fugue, but also for preparing plywood boards (gluing boards onto the face) and gluing plywood onto a frame, veneering and cladding (gluing plywood and boards different breeds) for producing thick parts (stands, legs, etc.) from thin bars and planks, as well as for gluing small bars to finished products (mouldings, baseboards, cornices, glazing beads, etc.).

Veneering. Pasting of plain wood with thin planks (cladding) and veneering - pasting of sheets (plywood) more valuable wood is special kind adhesive connection to improve the appearance of the product and increase its strength.

Depending on the production method, sawn, planed (knife) and peeled plywood are distinguished.

The parts are veneered on one or both sides; double-sided veneering significantly increases the strength of the product. Plywood is glued in one or two or more layers.

With one-sided veneering, the plywood is glued with fibers parallel to the fibers of the base (frame, frame or frame), and with double-sided veneering - mutually perpendicular.

Due to shrinkage or drying of the glue and warping of the plywood that dries out after moistening, the base - a board or shield - warps (Fig. 187, a) and a concavity is formed on the surface covered with plywood. This warping is greater, the smaller the ratio of the thickness of the base to its width. Veneering a well-dried block, the thickness of which is at least half the width, does not at all entail its warping.

Gluing plywood to the right (core) side of the block reduces warping of the base and, by creating a convexity on the right side, it is possible to compensate for the arching resulting from shrinkage of the glue and warping of the plywood.

Double-sided veneering (Fig. 187, b) does not cause warping of the part. In this case, the internal, non-front sides of the part can be covered with plywood of simple species, and the front sides with plywood of more valuable species.

It is often necessary to cover timber parts on three or four sides. In this case, plywood is glued to the wide edges, and plywood or solid wood lining to the narrow edges (Fig. 187, c, d).

The veneered surface is prepared accordingly: knots are drilled out and the holes are filled with wooden plugs; cracks and chips are sealed with wooden inserts or putty; the surface is precisely leveled. The ends, which are usually difficult to veneer, are either glued and then (after the glue has dried) lined with zinubel, or pasted over with longitudinal blocks.

Plywood for front and inner layers cut into pieces of the required length, its edges are jointed and connected (pulled) into a sheet (set) according to the dimensions of the surface to be pasted.

Plywood screed produced on the table. The sheets are laid out with jointed edges one to the other, attached to the table with small nails, the seams and the surface of the plywood at the seams are wide 15 mm lubricate with glue and apply strips of paper the width of 15 mm. After the gluing has dried, the nails are pulled out, the set is removed and glued to the board.

Using the wood texture and applying the appropriate arrangement (set) of plywood sheets, you can get beautiful drawing and give the veneered product an artistic look.

In Fig. 188 shown different kinds set of plywood.

According to the specified veneering and set, plywood sheets are prepared.

Face plywood is selected after it has been cut to size (with allowance) and its edges have been smoothed. The selection is made in one of the following two ways: the sheets cut from the trunk are laid out, turning over every second sheet (as if unfolding the leaves of an open book) or simply shifted without turning over. In the first case, one sheet will turn out to be facing upward with the core (right) side, and the other sheet - with the sapwood (left). In the second case, all the sheets will turn out to be facing upward with one side - the core or sapwood - side.

The first method (unfolding) is used for plywood with tough wood that is less susceptible to cracking. Spiky wood (for example, oak) cannot be placed on the face with the left (sapwood) side up, since when drying, the plywood sheet will warp, bending upward, while the sheets facing the left side down will be pressed tightly against the base when warping, and in this case the cracks will be barely noticeable. Therefore, when picking up the plywood, they move the plywood, turning all the sheets with the left side towards the base.

Connection of elements from different materials. For the production of furniture, currently used, in addition to solid wood, are chipboards and fibreboards, wood and other plastics, non-ferrous metals, etc. The connections of such materials with solid wood differ from the above connections.

Elements made of particle boards and fibreboards, which have a higher sensitivity to moisture, lower strength and an unsightly surface, are usually combined with valuable wood. The following connections are used (Fig. 189): pasting front surfaces veneer and planed plywood, width joints on a smooth reveal and on a plug-in batten, miter corner joints with plug-in strips and dowels, with a plug-in pilaster made of wood on a smooth reveal and on a plug-in batten, middle joints on a smooth reveal and on a tongue and groove, sealing edges with wood. The connections are secured using resin adhesives, screws and special clamps.

Laminates are attached to wood using carbinol glue or screws and clamps.

Connections with screws, staples and nails.Screw connection used in dismountable products, as well as in products subject to moisture, in which the adhesive connection is unreliable. Screw connections are sometimes used to simplify work when gluing or knitting parts is difficult.

Almost all fittings are secured with screws: hinges, hinges, handles, locks and various decorations, as well as some wooden parts: glazing beads, trims, etc.

Fastening with dowels(Fig. 190) is used mainly for fastening tenon joints. To fasten parts made of soft wood, dowels are made wedge-shaped, with a pointed end, and are made from hardwood; To fasten hardwood, round dowels made of soft wood are used. Pin thickness from 3 to 12 mm.

The dowels are driven into the holes in a glued and pressed joint. Their ends are smeared with glue and hammered in with hammer blows, while the hard dowel is pressed into the wood of the joint, and the soft dowel is pressed into the hole. With one pin, it is placed in the center of the connection, and with two, each of them is placed at a distance of 1/4 diagonally from the inner and outer corners.

Connections with metal clamps are becoming more widespread. The clamps used are very diverse.

Stitching parts using wavy plates (Fig. 191, a) consists of driving (deepening) half of the plate lengthwise into one part, and the second half into another. This is most applicable when assembling bars into a frame for subsequent gluing with plywood (hollow panel) or when assembling a massive board panel for the same purpose.

Mustache connection made using a steel plate driven into the parts to be connected (Fig. 191, b).

Rallying on the rings(Fig. 191, c) consists in choosing a groove for the ring in the parts being connected, into which a special ring is placed that tightens the parts being connected.

Metal fasteners to strengthen the binding of wooden parts, it is most often used in the form of a metal square placed on top (Fig. 191, d).

Along with metal fasteners, they use wooden squares, bosses or crackers (Fig. 191, e), secured with glue and screws.

Reliability and aesthetics complex structures made of wood largely depends on the correct choice of method of connecting it components. This is especially true for frame products and load-bearing structures, where safety parameters come to the fore.

High-quality connection of wooden parts is the key to durability, the basis for an attractive appearance of the product, an indicator of the skill and professionalism of the carpenter and joiner.

Selecting the type of connection

In general, there are a huge number of types of joints of wooden blanks, so we can only talk about some of them, the most common.

One of the easiest ways to extend a wooden part (timber, log, board) and increase its width is an end connection. There are several options for its implementation. A simple and functional half-thickness (half-tree) method is often used. Depending on the expected load on the part, the cut can be straight or oblique. In some cases, the joint is strengthened using figured cutouts - locks. This type of connection prevents stretching, twisting, and bending. This is how the beams are spliced ​​together for the purpose of lengthening.

Creating three-dimensional frames or wooden frames requires reliable connections at various angles. In this case, it is rational to use a tenon-groove or tenon-eye connection. The nodes at the junction of parts can withstand displacement, bending and compression loads. If the structure requires high tensile strength, the cutouts are made trapezoidal.

Additional connections of frame products, which impart rigidity to the structure, are implemented using T-shaped or cross-shaped connections. The main load at the joints is compression, displacement and rupture. IN special cases the structure is further strengthened metal corners, screws or nails.

To connect boards together into box-shaped structures at right angles, it is convenient to use a special box groove. As the name implies, this method is often used to create three-dimensional structures, including furniture boxes. A high-quality box joint looks monolithic, has an attractive appearance and can withstand impressive loads. While creating wooden furniture the connection is often used on dowels, dowels and dominoes (when the groove has an oblong shape, as opposed to a round dowel).

Tenon joint (tenon and groove)

The simplest and one of the most reliable is the tongue-and-groove connection. It is widely used in carpentry. In a similar way, wooden parts of window frames are assembled into a single whole, a wide variety of cabinet furniture parts and plywood sheets are made. The essence this method consists in making a tenon at the end of one part being connected, which is inserted into the groove of another part and fixed in it.

For work, it is convenient to use a special lamellar router; in the absence of one, you can get by with a simple hand tool. You will need:

  • hand saw with fine teeth;
  • electric or hand drill;
  • several chisels of different widths;
  • sandpaper;
  • measuring tool, square and pencil.

First, the blanks are marked. The parameters of the tenon and groove depend on the parameters of the wooden parts and the configuration of the product, however, it is worth considering several general recommendations.

Important! The thickness of the tenon should be approximately a third of the thickness of the part, the width should be 70-80% of the width, the length should be equal to the thickness of the workpiece being joined.

The groove parameters must also meet these criteria. In any case, it is important to ensure that the dimensions of the tenon and groove match. The parts should connect easily, without pressure, but not fall out under their own weight. There should be no backlash, cracks or distortion.

The groove is cut out first, this sequence is due to the fact that the tenon is much easier to fit into the groove than vice versa. Cuts are made using a saw, excess wood is removed using a drill, the bottom of the groove and the walls are leveled with chisels.

In most cases, only wood glue is enough to fix the parts; screws or nails will help ensure maximum strength.

Half-tree connection

Quite often used in carpentry various options half-wood joints (simple or straight lock). This type of assembly of wooden structures is characterized by ease of manufacture and high reliability. The following varieties are distinguished:

  • cross connection;
  • half-tree - dovetail;
  • gusset;
  • on the mustache;
  • half-tree splicing.

The first two methods are used to connect parts that intersect at right angles. Especially popular is the dovetail, in which the neckline is trapezoidal and the sides are not at right angles. The lock groove widens slightly from the end, providing a more reliable fixation. It should be noted that a tenon joint can also be called a dovetail if the tenons are cut in the form of trapezoids.

The second and third methods form a completed angle. Splicing is used if it is necessary to increase the length of the workpiece.

How to make a cross connection

One of the simplest is the cross connection. It is easy to manufacture; even a novice carpenter can master its intricacies. The work is performed in the following order:

  • markings are made. The parts to be connected are placed on top of each other. Using a ruler, draw a cutting line. Thickness markings are applied using a thickness gauge;
  • the first part is clamped in a vice. Hand saw, carefully, a cut is made along the lines to the mark left by the thicknesser. The workpiece rotates. A second cut is made;
  • the workpiece is removed from the vice. Using a sharp chisel and a wooden mallet, remove part of the wood between the cuts;
  • the second part is processed;
  • The planes are leveled using sandpaper or an abrasive stone.

Now you can join wooden blanks. The connection must be tight, without backlash or gaps. If the product is one-piece, the joints are coated with wood glue, and the structure is additionally reinforced with screws.

Forming miter angles

One of the best ways creating corners of various volumetric products is a miter joint. It allows you to create monolithic structure, hide the fibers of the end, thereby providing an attractive appearance. This method is suitable for a wide variety of products, but is most often used for the manufacture of frames and cabinet furniture parts.

To create a connection, cuts are made at an angle in each of the wooden parts, equal to half the angle at which the workpieces meet. Most often, this angle is right, therefore, cuts are made at 45 degrees, however, the angle can vary widely. The work is performed according to the following algorithm.

First, mark out the details. It is important not to forget that the markings are made along the long side, otherwise you may not guess with the dimensions.

On the edges that will be connected, draw a line at the required angle. Using a combination square, the markings are transferred to each side of the workpiece. Then the cut is made, for which it is better to use an electric miter saw, but you can also work with a hand tool. When working with a hacksaw, it is important to control the cutting angle; it would be useful to use a block as a guide.

The finished parts are placed next to each other, checking the accuracy of the fit. Unevenness will have to be smoothed out with a hand plane, and the angle will have to be adjusted using sandpaper. Wood glue is applied to both surfaces, and the product is fixed using clamps. Additional strength can be achieved using nails. When working with a hammer, it is important to control the impact force so that the workpieces do not move.

Particularly important connections are strengthened with the help of bars that are glued into internal corner. A joint that will not be visible can be additionally reinforced with a metal square.

The result of quality work will be a perfect seam. If a small gap has formed, it can be hidden by straightening the adjacent wood fibers using a smooth cylindrical surface. The shaft of a regular screwdriver is suitable for this.

Spike in eye

Angle and T-joints (example: T-joint window frame) intersections are conveniently performed using the tongue-to-ridge method. IN in this case the eyelet is made at the end of the vertical part, the cuts for the tenon are made in its horizontal component.

The work begins with marking the eyelet. The thickness of the workpiece is divided by three. With a thin hacksaw, cuts are made to a depth equal to the width of the other workpiece. Excess wood is removed using chisels, and the walls of the eye are smoothed with sandpaper.

Mark the second workpiece. The width of the tenon should be equal to the width of the first workpiece, the thickness should be equal to the thickness of the tenon. The cuts are made hand hacksaw, carefully control the depth and angle of inclination. Remove excess with a chisel.

The final adjustment of thickness is carried out using sandpaper. The parts should connect with light force and not fall apart under their own weight.

Thorn in socket

A more complex connection is the tenon-to-socket method. It requires more skill, but is much more reliable and durable. The scope of use is the same as in the previous case, namely T-shaped joints. The difference between this method is that the tenon is made at the end of the vertical part, and a socket is cut out in the body of the horizontal part.

This is one of the most common furniture joints. There are connections with a through tenon and with a blind one. The difference is that in the first case a through socket is cut out, in the second the slot is made to a certain depth.

Features of Japanese joinery

Carpentry art has reached unprecedented heights Japanese masters. Using traditional techniques, combining Various types connections, they create precise and reliable joints without the use of nails or other fasteners. The joining of various wooden parts is carried out solely due to the force of friction.

The reliability of these connections is based on precise cutting. The perfectly matched locking lines on both mating parts allow you to create a connection with impeccable precision. Complex lock configurations require a lot of experience, knowledge and ability to use the tool, but if you want, all this can be learned.

Placing the boards together

High-quality wood is expensive, and it is not always possible to buy a good board with the necessary parameters, and it is not always necessary. To make, for example, a tabletop, it is not at all necessary to look for a table-wide board; with carpentry skills, you can create the ideal wooden canvas with the necessary parameters.

There are many options for bonding. A board with a tongue and groove, the so-called lining, is widely used. It allows you to create smooth wooden surfaces of a large area. A simplified version of it is often used - a board with a quarter joint.

Joining on a smooth fugue (butt)

The simplest method that does not require additional elements. Side faces boards are jointed, it is better to do this in pairs, clamping both adjacent boards in a vice and processing them at the same time. This treatment will create a precise surface on which the unevenness of one board will be compensated by the unevenness of the other. Both boards are coated with glue and fixed until it hardens completely.

Bonding load-bearing elements

There are several ways to lengthen (build up) a board that is part of the supporting structure. The simplest and most reliable is a half-timber connection followed by overlaying reinforcing strips at the junction. Non-critical areas can be reinforced with plywood.

The same method is also used to join boards at different angles. Precisely made cuts of the jointed parts make it possible to do without reinforcing linings; it is enough to secure the boards at the joint with screws.

Cutting without residue means that the stacked logs will form an even angle, their ends will not protrude beyond the boundaries of the building; a separate type of it - warm corner. Cutting with the remainder, in turn, means that a weave of protruding ends will be formed at the corners of the building. The second method is more expensive in terms of the amount of material, but the building retains heat better and is more stable.

Exist various ways connecting wooden parts, the ability to determine the optimal one for a particular type of work will significantly diversify the range of products that a master can make. The right method will provide an attractive appearance product and guarantees the reliability of the three-dimensional structure.

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In this article we will review what options are available for joining wood products. And there are a great many such methods, from a simple butt connection to the most complex dovetail connection. It is important to remember that not all of them can be done independently, but the information below will definitely not be superfluous.

Reliable coupling is the key to strength and reliability for any design

We list the valid options

All of them are distinguished by their strength and complexity, for example, the cabinet body is assembled with a seam or butt joint, less often they use a “grooved” or “mitered” combination. But for the manufacture of a door frame or panel, the skill of tenoning is useful.

Below are the methods for joining wooden parts.

Butt connection of parts

Butt registration is called securing the edges. For this purpose, fasteners and glue are usually used. But the butt joint is not very reliable, so it needs to be strengthened, which is not so difficult to do.

It is advisable to strengthen the butt joint metal fastening: corners and screws

This method is usually used when assembling the front frame of a cabinet, where strength does not play an important role, since the frame parts are securely attached to the cabinet itself. Butt joints of wooden structures are usually reinforced with lamellas or dowels, which are able to align the individual parts during gluing.

Fastening parts “in a mustache”

This combination has some differences from the previous one. When gluing the surface, the parts are beveled at an angle of 45° relative to the axis. The miter connection of wooden parts also needs to be strengthened using additional fasteners.

For your information! Typically, this method of combining is used when it is necessary to connect two pieces of molding in a corner.

Strengthening the connection of wood parts

As mentioned above, you can strengthen it using ordinary wooden dowels. Dowel reinforcements are usually made using two dowels glued into one and the other end of the crossbar, into vertical posts, and into their corresponding sockets. There are specific instructions for making such connections:

We mark the sockets for the dowels:

  1. For clear markings, it is necessary to attach the parts to be fastened to each other.
  2. Draw a line with a pencil, marking the places for the dowels.

  1. Continue the line to the edge of each piece using a square.
  2. Drill out the sockets for the dowels:
  • In order for the nest to be located exactly in the middle wooden part, you must use a drilling jig.
  • To make the socket of the required depth, it is necessary to use a coupling for the stopper.

Advice! If you don't have a locking sleeve, you can replace it by placing a small piece of tape over the drill.

  1. Collecting details:
  • It is necessary to apply glue to the dowel and insert it into the corresponding slot of the first part.
  • We connect the parts together.
  • We clamp it.
  • Leave for a while to let the glue dry.

Strengthening the connection using lamellas

If we compare the types of connections of wooden structures, the lamellar connection certainly wins. Although the price of such connections will be a little higher, they are very easy and convenient to work with.

Lamels are compressed wood in the form of flattened balls. The nests for such balls are cut out using a special lamellar machine. This results in a perfectly shaped hole. And due to the fact that the lamellas are slightly shorter than the socket, the alignment of parts when gluing is more accurate. It is very uncomfortable.

The rafter system is the most complex and one of the most important elements of the house; the comfort and operating time of the building largely depend on the correctness of its construction. Calculation and design rafter system should only be done experienced builders or engineers with special training.

Designing a wooden rafter system is much more difficult than any metal structures. Why? In nature, there are no two boards with absolutely identical strength indicators; this parameter is influenced by many factors.


Metal has identical properties, which depend only on the steel grade. The calculations will be accurate, the error will be minimal. With wood everything is much more complicated. In order to minimize the risk of system destruction, it is necessary to provide a large safety margin. Most decisions are made directly by the builders on site after assessing the condition of the lumber and taking into account the design features. Practical experience is very important.

Prices for various types of construction boards

Construction boards

Why do you need to splice rafters?

There are several reasons why rafters need to be spliced.

  1. Roof length exceeds standard lumber length. The standard length of the boards does not exceed six meters. If the slope is large, the boards will have to be lengthened.
  2. During construction there is a lot left good boards 3–4 m long. To reduce the estimated cost of the building and reduce the amount of unproductive waste, these pieces can be used to make rafters, having previously spliced ​​them together.

Important. It must be remembered that the strength of spliced ​​rafters is always lower than that of whole rafters. You should try to ensure that the splice point is located as close as possible to the vertical stops.

Splicing methods

There are several ways to splice, there is definitely no better or worse. Craftsmen make decisions taking into account their skills and the specific location of the joint.

Table. Methods of splicing rafters.

Splicing methodBrief description of the technology

It is used on boards with a thickness of at least 35 mm. Enough complex method, requires practical experience performing carpentry work. In terms of strength, the connection is the weakest of all existing ones. The advantage is saving lumber. In practice, it is used very rarely on construction sites.

Length rafter legs increases with the help of an overlay. The cover can be wooden or metal. If the length of two sections of boards is not sufficient according to the parameters of the rafter system, then this method allows you to increase them. Butt joints have the highest bending strength and are widely used during the construction of various structures.

Overlapping. Two boards are fixed with an overlap. The simplest method is in the middle in terms of strength. Flaw - total length two boards should be greater than the design length of the rafter leg.

In this article we will look at the two simplest and most reliable splicing methods: butt and overlap. There is no point in touching the oblique cut; it is almost never used because large quantity shortcomings.

Requirements of building codes and regulations for splicing rafters

Inept splicing of rafters along the length can not only sharply reduce their resistance to bending loads, but also cause complete destruction of the structure. The consequences of this situation are very sad. Building regulations provide certain patterns when choosing the size of the fastener, its installation location and the length of the pads. The data is based on many years of practical experience.

Spliced ​​rafters will be much stronger if metal pins, rather than nails, are used to connect them. The instructions will help you make your own connection calculations. The advantage of the method is its versatility; it can be used to solve problems not only with lengthening rafters, but also with building up other roof elements. Specialized companies performed rough calculations and collected the data in a table, but only the minimum acceptable parameters are indicated in it.

  1. Diameter and length of studs. In all cases, the diameter of the studs must be ≥ 8 mm. Thinner ones do not have sufficient strength and are not recommended to be used. Why? IN metal connections The diameter of the studs is calculated based on tensile forces. During tightening, the metal surfaces are pressed against each other so strongly that they are held in place by friction. In wooden structures, the pin works in bending. Individual boards cannot be pulled together with great force; the washers fall into the board. In addition, as the relative humidity changes, the thickness of the boards changes, thereby reducing the tightening force. Studs used for bending must have big size. The specific diameter of the stud must be determined using the formula d w = 0.25×S, where S is the thickness of the board. For example, for a board 40 mm thick, the pin diameter should be 10 mm. Although this is all quite relative, you need to keep in mind the specific loads, and they depend on many factors.

  2. Board overlap length. This parameter should always be four times the width of the boards. If the width of the rafters is 30 cm, then the length of the overlap cannot be less than 1.2 m. We have already mentioned that the specific decision is made by the master taking into account the condition of the lumber, the angle of inclination of the rafters, the distance between them, and weight roofing materials and climatic zone of the building location. All these parameters have a great influence on the stability of the rafter system.

  3. Stud hole spacing. It is recommended to fix the fasteners at a distance of at least seven stud diameters; the distance from the edge of the board should be at least three diameters. These are minimum values; in practice, it is recommended to increase them. But it all depends on the width of the board. By increasing the distance from the edge, you cannot reduce the distance between the rows of studs too much.

  4. Number of tie rods. There are quite complex formulas, but in practice they are not used. Craftsmen install two rows of studs, taking into account the distance between them, the holes are arranged in a checkerboard pattern.