First of all, let's figure it out - when do you need to grout tile joints? Typically, craftsmen advise starting this work no earlier than a day after installation is completed, but you shouldn’t put it off for long. And this period is determined for many reasons:
Traditionally, the color of the grout is selected according to the color of the tile. According to generally accepted design rules, more than two primary colors are not used in the interior of one room. Therefore, some deviations in the intensity of the shades of grout and tiles are allowed, but not a difference in color. When combining tiles of different colors, as well as when using decorative inserts, you should stock up on grout in the appropriate colors.
If you cannot find grout on sale that matches the color of the tile, then the problem can be solved by making it yourself. To do this, take a white mixture and add to it the required amount of color for water-based paint. By gradually mixing a certain color, you can give the grout the desired shade.
There is one secret here: the color of the wet solution is more intense than the one obtained when the mixture dries. When adjusting saturation, you need to remember this feature in order to select the desired color as accurately as possible.
For white floor tiles It is more prudent to immediately choose a light gray grout - since when using the floor it is very difficult to achieve its ideal whiteness.
Depending on what methods of grouting tiles you plan to use, you may need the appropriate tools: a container with a volume of no more than 1.5-2 liters (a small plastic bucket or bowl); a convenient metal spatula for mixing the finished mixture, a foam sponge, a clean rag and a bucket of water. But the main tool in the work will be a special plastic spatula with a rubber tip or more cheap option- rubber spatula, although such savings are not always justified.
As when calculating others building mixtures, the expected consumption of grout is quite difficult to calculate in advance. Even the numbers indicated by manufacturers on the packaging very often differ, and the most unpleasant thing is when the mixture unexpectedly runs out during operation, absolutely not justifying the declared consumption rates.
To reduce such costs when purchasing grout, you should consider:
For calculations, take as a basis the ratio of 400 g of mixture per 1 sq.m of standard size tiles laid, adding or reducing the amount of grout depending on the above conditions.
When all the materials and tools are ready, you need to understand how to use tile grout.
First things first, you need to prepare the mixture. This is done immediately before starting work, since the solution is not stored for long and hardens after 15-30 minutes. For the same reason, it is prepared in small quantities, especially if there are few skills in the work. Dilute the dry mixture clean water, according to the instructions. And at this stage it is very important to mix the components correctly, otherwise you can spoil the material - either a solution that is too thin or too thick is not suitable for work. After stirring the mixture, let it stand for about five minutes, and then mix thoroughly again. That's it, the solution is ready! Let's take the spatula!
When the processing of the tile seams after grouting is completed, the surface is left to dry completely. Usually, provided the average daily room temperature is 16-26 degrees and relatively low humidity, an hour or an hour and a half is enough. But a decrease in temperature by 3-5 degrees can delay this process.
As for the readiness of the floor tiles for use, although the grout in the joints dries in an hour, you can still walk or place furniture on the floor no earlier than three hours later. The fact is that small specks or sand that accidentally fall into a weak grout solution can disrupt the integrity of a neatly executed seam.
When the grout has completely dried, it’s time to remove the remaining white coating and finally put the tiled surface in order.
The intensity and amount of plaque on the tiles depends on how thoroughly the foam sponge was washed and how often the water in the bucket was changed. But even if the tiles need a good cleaning, it is not difficult to do.
The best and most effective way is to hose down a clean running water- fast, clean and no need to rub anything. But it is not always practical to use this method. Therefore, the “dry” cleaning method is more often used. To do this, use a thick, preferably felt, rag, which is used to rub the surface, removing the remaining mixture. The problem can only arise with cleaning the surfaces of grooved, textured or matte tiles. And here special cleaners will help, which can usually be found in the same stores where grout is purchased.
Floor repairs are always accompanied by laying the finishing coating. And this must be done in such a way that it pleases the eye, is practical and lasts a long time in different conditions: in apartments and houses, in enterprises, in shopping centers, offices, various organizations. Here decent result work. Technologies proven over centuries and many years of experience of builders allow us to successfully solve this problem and choose the right materials, for example, in rooms with high humidity or high traffic levels.
Tiles are often used as a finishing decorative coating not only for the floor, but also for walls, countertops, other surfaces, for facade works. This is one of the most practical and durable materials. A variety of textures, a rich palette of shades, the ability to combine and create various effects enable designers to create beautiful and stylish compositions that stun the imagination.
An important component of styling decorative tiles is grouting tile joints.
The grout performs the following functions:
Grout is sold as a dry mixture for dilution with water or in hermetically sealed jars as a thick paste.
The tiles are laid, left for 7 days - the time after laying, during which the tile adhesive completely dries, you can now start grouting.
To do this you need:
An important stage of preparation is right choice grouting and calculation of material consumption
Grouts differ in their composition, characteristics, and features of use.
When choosing, you should consider the following parameters:
The second subtype contains cement, various plasticizing, polymer and drying-retarding additives. This grout is used to fill narrower joints, 3-5 mm wide. You can enhance the waterproofing properties by diluting the powder not with water, but with liquid latex. The properties of the mixture allow it to be used on glazed tiles; the plasticizers in the composition make filling joints easier and of better quality. Cement grouts are recommended for use in dry rooms.
This type of paste is not used in environments exposed to aggressive chemical substances, constant exposure to water, for example, in production using acids, in swimming pools. The finished mixture sets quickly, so it must be used within 2 hours after dilution.
Epoxy resin and hardener can be combined with sand, coloring pigment, and Portland cement.
The cost of such a mixture is higher, but the advantages are obvious:
Epoxy grout is mixed immediately before work in small portions, its setting time ranges from 5 to 20 minutes. It is a viscous material and requires quick work and skill to apply.
The composition has been selected, you can go to the store, buy the mixture and grout the seams on the tiles. There is a special formula by which consumption is calculated grout mixture in kilograms per 1 m2.
Consumption (kg/m2) = (A+B) / (A+B) x N x D x Coefficient. x 10%
In this formula:
To dilute the solution from dry powder, you need a small clean container and a drill with a mixer attachment. The mixtures are diluted with water or liquid latex strictly according to the instructions on the packaging of the specific grout. Usually take about 200-300 ml of water per 1 kg of dry ingredients. Add water little by little, mix, then add another portion, so the whole mixture is gradually prepared. The consistency should resemble sour cream. If you pour more water than normal, a too thin mixture will crack, and a very thick mixture will not fill the entire seam, and voids will remain.
Using a mixer, thoroughly mix the composition until a homogeneous mass is obtained. You can add colored pigment or various decorative additives to epoxy and polymer materials according to the customer or designer’s plans.
It is better to dilute the first batch in small quantities to check the consumption, quality of the mixture, and setting speed. If you purchased ready-made grout, you need to put part of the finished paste into another smaller container, tightly closing the lid of the factory jar. The prepared solution cannot be stored for a long time, as it becomes covered with a film and loses its properties. Then you can no longer use it. It is recommended to dilute the portion so as to cover 1.5 m2.
Before rubbing, the seams are moistened by wiping with a wet sponge; there is no need to treat the surface with a primer.
Moisture applied to the spaces between joints ensures better adhesion when applying the mixture. For glazed tiles, this procedure is not necessary.
In rooms of permanent use (in the toilet, bathroom, kitchen), you can start grouting the joints 1 day after laying the tiles, so as not to torment the residents for a whole week. In other rooms you need to wait 7 days and only then grout. Before the main work, it is necessary to treat the gaps with an antifungal compound. After treatment, the composition dries within 24 hours.
The epoxy mixture is chemically aggressive; in order to work with it, protective equipment is required. You need to seal the seams with epoxy putty very quickly and deftly, otherwise it will harden and become unusable.
To apply polymer pastes, you need a syringe, which you can make yourself. To do this, you need to take a thick plastic bag and cut off its corner so that you get a small hole for the polymer to exit. Then put a little mixture and squeeze it out, filling the tile joints.
To work, you should prepare the following tool:
To properly joint floors and walls, you need to know the basic rules.
They are suitable for both cement mixtures and polyurethane:
After 5-15 minutes, the seams will dry a little, but will not harden completely, then you can level the seams with a hard sponge, evenly pressing on it so that the grout layer is lower general level tiles by 0.2 - 0.3 mm. The sponge should not be heavily moistened to prevent dark spots from appearing on the surface of the seams. Against the background of a lighter base tone, they look sloppy and can ruin the entire look of the finished tile. It is necessary to rinse the sponge after each seam formed. You can give the seam a neat look using a shaper or a piece of cable.
You need to use a special sponge to wash off stains and remaining mortar from the tiles; after hardening, this will be much more difficult to do. Special detergents are used to remove excess polyurethane grout. After a day, the surface will dry completely and harden. You can wash the tiles clean with any detergent.
Epoxy paste is more difficult to rub in as it is more viscous and hardens quickly. If you don’t have time to remove the remains, you will have to cut them off with a knife. It is recommended to entrust the application of such pastes to experienced specialists. If you decide to apply it yourself, you can first practice small area, test the mixture for setting time and prepare everything at once aids for the cleaning.
After the grout has completely dried, it is treated with various impregnations to improve its performance properties. Impregnations increase the water-repellent properties of seams, strengthen them, prevent the appearance of mold and mildew, and improve general form. The impregnation can be applied with a thin brush.
In corners and various hard to reach places The seams must be rubbed using a special small spatula. It is recommended to seal the gaps between the bathtub, sink, shower cabin and tiles with silicone sealant for reliability and better waterproofing. To prevent silicone from staining the tiles, protect the edges masking tape. Apply the sealant and level the seam using a wet spatula. Then remove excess silicone and peel off the masking tape.
To achieve a glossy, beautiful shine on the tiles, you can prepare your own solution from the following ingredients:
30 minutes after jointing, take one or more components, mix and dilute with water. Then soak a soft sponge in the solution and wipe the surface of the tile. At the slightest cloudiness of the solution, it should be replaced; we take a new clean portion. Then rub additionally with a dry cloth after complete drying. You can spray the tiles with glass and mirror cleaner.
Cracking of the grout can begin at any stage, even during the process of applying the mixture. Such deformation of hardening joints most often occurs when using cement mortar.
There are several reasons for cracking:
In this case, you need to urgently correct the situation, otherwise the entire gap will crumble over time. You can clean out the gap and renew the seam, but the cracks will appear again. Experienced craftsmen recommend rubbing dry powder into the cracked grout joint. Add dry ingredients to the remaining portion and stir quickly.
To prevent destruction, when preparing the composition it is necessary to achieve uniformity, the viscosity should be medium. After mixing the solution, wait 5 minutes, then thoroughly stir again. Do not open windows or vents for ventilation or use hot water when wetting.
It is important to read the instructions carefully and follow the indicated proportions.
When the main work of laying the tiles is left behind, you can begin its final stage - grouting the joints. This work plays a very important role, because high-quality grout will be able to mask defects in tile laying if they exist, and, conversely, poor grout will completely destroy the impression of a flawlessly executed installation. In addition, the empty spaces between the tiles with poor-quality grouting turn black over time from fungus and mold. Therefore it is worth paying attention Special attention the question of how to grout the seams on tiles to improve the overall appearance coating, as well as provide additional protection.
There are two types of grout for tile joints:
Cement grouts inexpensive and easy to use, and therefore the most popular in home use. They are presented in the form of dry mixtures with the addition of modified polymers and are diluted with water or latex before starting work. Modified polymers make the grouting material resistant to moisture, and this allows it to be used even on outdoor surfaces. open areas. Ready-made mixtures are also available for sale, which do not require additional preparation, but they usually cost much more.
If the seam during installation is wider than 3 mm, then it is better to purchase cement grout with the addition of sand, and if the seams are smaller, then it is recommended to use regular cement-based grout.
Safety tip: Cement grout can cause inflammation of the skin, eyes and lungs. Therefore, when working with these materials, be sure to wear safety glasses, a respirator and rubber gloves.
Epoxy grouts contain epoxy resin and hardener. Such compositions withstand mechanical, chemical and thermal influences well; they are much more stable and stronger than their cement counterparts, but they are also more expensive. They are used mainly in industrial premises. At home, it is reasonable to use such grout only if the width of the joints between the ceramic tiles is more than 6 mm (since it is quite viscous, it will not be able to penetrate into narrower joints).
Epoxy grouts are a mixture of 2 components: paste and catalyst, which are mixed immediately before use. The proportions of these two components must be accurate, so you need to use a scale.
Which grout is best for tiles? Experts recommend buying epoxy grout for ceramic tile joints, as it is more beautiful, stronger and more reliable. It will last up to 50 years, perfectly protecting the cladding from moisture, fungi and bacteria, as well as from exposure to chemicals. If you decide to buy cement-based grout, it is advisable to buy latex for it.
As for the color of the grout, it is a matter of taste: the grout can be matched to the main color of the ceramic tiles or you can prefer a classic light tone.
What should be the width of grout joints? This largely depends on personal preference. Some, for example, like narrow seams. Excessively wide joints seem to suppress the tile visually. Square ceramic tiles ranging in size from 10 to 60 cm will look neat with 3 mm joints. The irregular shape of the tiles becomes less noticeable with wider joints, but not more than 12 mm. A joint with a width of more than 12 mm will become stronger if you add coarse sand to the grout, but even this will not always protect it from cracking.
To the same extent, it is not recommended to make the seams too narrow, since it will be impossible to fill them properly with grout, as a result of which water can seep into the cladding. Good masters they know that the quality of the cladding will be at a high level if the joints are sufficiently wide, when they can be well filled with grout. This means that the seams will be waterproof and will also be able to absorb the deformation of the tiles during expansion or contraction. This ability of seams is reduced many times when their width is less than 1 millimeter.
How to properly grout ceramic tiles? First of all, check whether the glue is completely dry. Then we thoroughly clean the seams from residual glue, dirt and dust, and remove the remaining spacers. When working with unglazed tiles, they must be moistened before grouting, otherwise they will draw water from the grout mixture. Glazed tiles do not need to be wetted.
All grouting materials must be kept for some time in the room where the grouting work will be carried out. The optimal temperature for grouting is 18-25°C.
You can watch the grouting process in detail in the video below - grouting ceramic tiles video. It consists of the following steps:
Mix the grout with water or latex additives. Dry polymer grouts are mixed exclusively with water. In any case, add enough liquid so that the resulting mixture is easily distributed. This is important to remember, because excess liquid will weaken the grout (we adhere to the proportions indicated on the packaging of the material).
The grout is mixed by adding the dry component to the liquid
We mix by gradually adding the dry component to the liquid (at first we pour only three-quarters of the total amount of liquid). After mixing all the dry components with the liquid, add the remaining liquid in small portions, constantly checking the consistency of the grout. Mixing is done using a rectangular trowel or electric mixer. The stirrer must be completely immersed in the solution so that air does not get into the mixture, because air bubbles weaken it.
All components are mixed, most of the lumps are broken. Let the solution stand for 10 minutes to wet. Mix the grout again so that no lumps remain. If you need to prepare several portions of grout, you need to be sure that their composition will be identical. Therefore, when mixing new portions, we try to maintain the proportions and order of combining the components, and so that the color of the grout remains constant, when mixing the next portion, we add grout from each package to it.
Advice! When purchasing several packages of grout, you must make sure that they are all produced under the same serial number.
The finished grout must have sufficient density so that it remains heaped when distributed.
We spread the grout in a heap on the surface of the cladding.
The grout is laid out in a slide on the surface of the tile.
To distribute the solution, use a grout float (for walls or floors, respectively). Apply grout to the tile diagonally, holding the float at an angle of 30° to it. We try not only to cover the seams with mortar, but also to forcefully press it into the seams in order to fill them tightly, because their strength depends on the density of filling the seams.
The grout is applied at an angle of 30 degrees to the tile
We do not grout over the entire surface at once. First, distribute the solution over a small area (no more than 2 square meters) to find out how quickly this grout sets. If it sets quickly, you need to stop and clean it. Sometimes it is possible to distribute the grout over an area of up to 9 m2, and only then begin cleaning; in other cases, you only have to cover small areas and clean them.
The first grout removal is dry.
To do this, we use a trowel, holding it at right angles to the tiles and moving it diagonally towards the grout joints (so that the edge of the tool does not accidentally remove part of the grout from the joint). Once the excess has been removed, the grout should be allowed to set before cleaning. While we are grouting and cleaning, do not forget to stir the grout solution periodically so that it retains its softness before applying to the next areas.
During the grouting process, stir the grout solution periodically so that it retains its softness.
The second removal of the grout mixture is wet. When should it start? The time it takes for grout to fully set before wet cleaning varies greatly. It may take 5 minutes, or it may take 20 minutes or more. The rate of moisture evaporation from grout directly depends on the adhesive and tiles, the type of base, and weather conditions.
Wet cleaning of the cladding surface
For wet cleaning, you need a bucket of water and a sponge (it is advisable that the sponge has rounded edges - this will prevent grooves from forming in the seams). Use gentle circular movements to remove sand and cement particles. We act carefully to avoid the formation of grooves in the grout joints. We only clean at one time small area(1-2m2), wetting the sponge often enough to wash away the grout particles that have penetrated into the pores of the tiles. We try to rinse the sponge well and squeeze it out as hard as possible, shaking off excess water from our hands.
At the second stage, we inspect the grout joints so that they are all neat. Using a jointer, a toothbrush or a wooden stick with a pointed end, we level and smooth the seams.
Using jointing, the seams are aligned and smoothed
Then we trim their edges with a sponge. Ideally, the seams should be smooth on top, not convex, although most seams then become slightly concave, but this is acceptable. It is important that in the end they all turn out to be the same depth and shape.
The seams have been leveled, now all that remains is to thoroughly clean the surface of the cladding from any remaining traces of grout. We act carefully so as not to wipe the grout from the seams with a sponge. After this cleaning, any remaining grout must be completely removed from the surface of the tiles. The seams should dry in about 15 minutes.
Remove grout residue remaining on the surface of the tile using gauze or a soft, clean cloth.
The work is finished, place a sheet of plywood on the floor and do not allow anyone to walk on the floor until the grout is completely dry. Some grouts take up to two or more weeks to dry (check the drying time in the manufacturer’s instructions).
High-quality tile installation does not guarantee its long service life. Therefore very important stage grouting of joints between ceramic products. It is this final step that directly determines the final quality of the work done, the appearance of the composition, its operational capabilities, as well as durability. In addition, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of the room where the tiles are installed, for example, in the bathroom or kitchen.
The seams between tiles are the gap or distance at the junction from one ceramic element to another. There are certain and generally accepted standards, according to which the tile laying technology is carried out. The gap left between the parts is approximately 2 to 5 mm. However, these indicators take into account only the average parameters of the tile, and the larger it is, the wider the seams should remain.
This approach contains a rational grain, which is due to a purely practical aspect. In addition, it is necessary to sand the seam in the bathroom to prevent the penetration of moisture, which is detrimental to the base of the bathroom floor. As a result, it is the seams that are responsible for the condition and for how long the shower room will remain. Here are some more advantages of proper grouting:
The seam must be rubbed correctly so that no troubles occur during operation. To do this you need to select high-quality composition, having high characteristics. Today, this aspect is given less attention than required, however, this can cause very sad consequences. To select a suitable mixture, it is worth selecting according to the following parameters:
Wall joints between tiles can be treated with standard grout, special grout, or using varnish. After a certain period of time, the bathroom coating loses its quality, so you should choose a special mixture characterized by reliable adhesion of the composition to the surfaces. Thus, a composition with a loose structure is not suitable here.
For the removal of seams, mixtures packaged at the enterprise are usually used. On the one hand, it is very convenient, fast, and the selection takes a minimum of time, and is carried out for each specific case. In addition, being in its original packaging, the powder, unlike liquid solutions or varnish, can be stored for quite a long time. After all, it is not always possible to calculate the required amount of material the first time. Therefore, the mixture is poured in gradually, adjusting the density of the solution.
On the other hand, manufacturing companies offer ready-made and packaged formulations in special containers. Weak side This method of application means that it is impossible to store opened packages, i.e. you will have to use the entire mass or throw away the amount of grout that is not useful. Thus, mixing the composition for joints yourself is much more profitable than purchasing finished products.
Nowadays, making grout with your own hands is quite simple. An alabaster blank and a certain amount of water will do. Some time after stirring, a white substance forms and is applied to the seam. However, when drying, the mass may crumble, which makes it impossible to use on a long-term basis. Silicone, gypsum additives or varnish will not radically change the situation.
Worth knowing! To prepare high-quality grout, it is best to have the necessary experience. Otherwise, the resulting mass will be of poor quality, which will lead to it crumbling after drying. It may be better to turn to the purchased option.
In order to properly grout the seams between the tiles, you need to prepare the following list of tools:
When filling the container with water, you need to add grout solution to it in small portions. For this task you will need a medium-sized container, with the exception of when working with large volumes. The mixture is brought to a homogeneous state and applied to the surface with a trowel or spatula. It goes something like this:
Need to know! Rubbing seams on the wall and floor has certain differences. For example, the wall surface should be treated from top to bottom, with the sealant applied last. The flooring is filled from the far corner to the exit, similar to laying tiles.
Allow the bath to dry for 24 hours, then re-treat protective equipment, directed against exposure, rot, mold, fungus. This will significantly reduce the risk of various microorganisms for the most vulnerable areas. One way or another, moisture will accumulate on the surface of the bathroom floor; naturally, for it, the seam on the tiles will be like a river bed. So all that's left to do to complete the job is to apply epoxy resin.
After the bathroom has acquired its final appearance, it is necessary to take care of the attractive appearance of the room. You can use a grout marker tile joints to remove traces of putty. Usually the surface is rubbed down in 2-3 approaches; if the mastic has not yet completely dried, cleaning is postponed until it is completely dry.
Remains of the solution on the ceramics are removed using water and a spatula. Wet the excess and then carefully scrape it off with a scraper. Remaining stains can be removed with a damp cloth or sponge. If the tile has a ribbed or uneven surface, then cleaning is carried out with a toothbrush. At the final stage, it is better to use a glass cleaner that polishes the surface well.
Need to know! It is necessary to clean the mastic that has not yet completely hardened, otherwise it will be very difficult to soak it, and for products with a relief surface this becomes very difficult.
Caring for bathroom ceramics, for obvious reasons, differs from ordinary room. About once every two months, you need to carry out a thorough cleaning here using special or folk detergents in the form of lemon, vinegar, soap and others. Bleaching is carried out using hydrogen peroxide and soda. They cope well with harmful microorganisms, dirt and fungus.
Grouting tile joints is no less important process than the cladding itself. They do this not only for the sake of beauty, although this means a lot, but also in order to protect the finishing layer from the effects of adverse factors. High-quality grout does not allow moisture to pass through, prevents fungi from developing and dirt from accumulating, which prolongs the life of the tile. To properly grout the seams, you should familiarize yourself with the application technology in more detail, as well as find out which composition is best suited for the bathroom.
Tile grout (fugue) is a paste-like mixture or powder, which is diluted with liquid to a certain consistency. Such compositions differ in color, drying time, plasticity and other criteria, but they are all divided into only two types - mixtures based on epoxy resin and mixtures based on cement.
The main advantage of cement grouts is the combination good quality and low cost. These universal mixtures contain finely ground cement, coloring pigments, plasticizers and hydrophobic additives. They are diluted with plain water or liquid latex, which increases the adhesive properties of the grout. The finished solution is a plastic mass that is easy and convenient to work with, but it is used only for seams up to 5 mm wide.
For wider joints, grout with the addition of sand is used, and the greater the width, the larger the grains of sand. Sand reduces the shrinkage of the mortar after drying, so the seams do not crack. At the same time, sand-cement mixtures are not recommended for use on tiles with a glazed surface, since the sand may leave scratches on the glaze.
Cement grouts are produced both in dry form (powder) and ready-to-use. Buying ready-made mixtures is convenient, but not always profitable: if you do not have time to use everything up within the specified time, the remaining mixture in the bucket will simply dry out. This will not happen with powder; the main thing is to store it in a tightly closed container in a dry place. If moisture gets in there, it will no longer be suitable for use.
There are few disadvantages to cement compositions, but they are quite significant. Firstly, such grout has low resistance to moisture and dirt. Soap scum and dirt that fall on the tiles eat into the seams and spoil the aesthetic appearance of the cladding. Secondly, under the influence household chemicals, which is used for cleaning, the fugue gradually collapses, and after some time the seams need to be processed again.
cement grout
The main quality of such compositions is durability. In addition, this grout for bathroom tile joints is moisture resistant and does not shrink. Even after 10 years, the tile joints retain their original appearance. In addition to epoxy resin, the composition contains a filler, modifying additives and a hardener. Quartz sand of various fractions is usually used as a filler. The hardener is always packaged separately from the other components, and is added directly when mixing the grout. After mixing the components, a very viscous dense mass is formed, and working with it is quite difficult, even for specialists. But all the inconveniences are fully compensated by the quality of the seams obtained, their rich color and high strength.
Due to their low porosity, such joints do not absorb dirt and are much easier to clean than cement ones. In addition, epoxy grout for bathroom tiles is not affected by mold and is resistant to any cleaning agents. Its water resistance helps to increase the service life of the entire cladding, which cement compositions cannot boast of. Well, the disadvantages, in addition to the difficulties in application, include the high cost of such grouts and restrictions in use: minimum width The seam must be 6 mm, otherwise the viscous mass simply will not be able to penetrate deep into the surface.
If you need grout for bathroom tiles, which one is best? This question is relevant for everyone who has decided to do the cladding on their own. And, as practice shows, many people here make serious mistakes that affect the quality of the finish. So, here are a few main criteria that determine the choice of composition.
And, of course, be sure to take into account the thickness of the seam. For example, seamless tiles are laid with a minimum distance of 1-2 mm, and artificially aged tiles with uneven edges can have joints up to 15 mm. Accordingly, in the first case you can use cement grout, in the second - cement-sand with the highest filler fraction or epoxy.
Characteristics of grout from leading manufacturers
| Type of grout | Main characteristics | Average market value |
|---|---|---|
| Elastic, moisture-repellent, two-component cement-based mixture, ready for use. Used for seams up to 10 mm wide, has an antifungal effect. Forms a perfectly smooth surface that is resistant to abrasion. Available in 32 colors, including white, packaged in a 2 kg plastic bucket. Density 1.75 kg/d3. Solution viability 2 hours | 350 rub. | |
| Moisture-resistant mixture based on cement. Used for seams 1-6 mm wide, available in 40 colors. The composition has increased resistance to cracking and shrinkage, and is not prone to fading. Packing – 2 kg package. Density 1.15 kg/d3. Ripening time 5 minutes | 200 rub. | |
| Waterproof, easy-to-apply cement-based grout. Suitable for seams with a width of 1-8 mm. The color range includes 30 options. Packing – 2 kg package. It is distinguished by high decorativeness of the seam and resistance to fading. Density 1.8 kg/d3. The viability of the solution is 1 hour. Mixture maturation time 7 minutes | 205 rub. | |
| A one-component cement-based mixture with an antifungal effect. Used for grouting joints 2-6 mm wide. Available in 17 color options, packaged in bags of 1, 2 and 5 kg. Density 1.65 kg/d3. The viability of the solution is 1.5 hours. Drying time 24 hours | 100 rub. (2 kg) | |
| Waterproof multi-component cement mixture with polymer and organic additives. It is easy to use, resistant to shrinkage and highly decorative seams. Available in 7 color options, used for seams 1-6 mm. Packing – bags of 2 and 5 kg. Density 1.9 kg/d3. The viability of the solution is 2 hours. Mixture ripening 5 minutes | 148 rub. (2 kg) | |
| Two-component moisture-resistant mixture based on epoxy resin. It is distinguished by its strength, resistance to shrinkage, and very high decorativeness of the seams. The color range includes 103 shades, among which there are options with luminescent additives, sparkles, bronze and gold chips. Suitable for joints with a width of 3-15 mm, packaged in plastic buckets of 2.5 and 5 kg. Density 1.55 kg/d3. Solution viability 1 hour | 2500 rub. (2.5 kg) |
On the packaging of grouting compounds, manufacturers indicate the approximate consumption of the mixture per square meter. But there are tiles different sizes, the seams have different widths and thicknesses, so you have to calculate the quantity yourself. The easiest way to do this is using tables developed by specialists.
If suddenly you do not find the desired option in the table, use an online calculator. It is too convenient way, which allows you to calculate the required volume of grout with maximum accuracy. You need to take accurate measurements of the tiles (length, width, thickness), determine the approximate width of the joint and find out the density of the grout mixture (this information is indicated on the packaging). After you enter all the numbers in the appropriate boxes and click the “calculate” button, the online calculator will give you the result, to which you should add 8-10% in reserve.
There is another option - calculations using a formula. For convenience, let's denote the parameters by letters:
All dimensions are in millimeters, consumption is in kg/m2.
Calculation formula:
material consumption = (A+B)×C×D×P/(A×B)
For example, a tile has dimensions of 300x300x5 mm, a joint width of 3 mm, and the density of the mixture is 1.6 kg/d3. We carry out calculations using the formula: (300+300)x5x3x1.6/(300x300)=0.16 kg/m2.
Now, to find out how much grout is needed, you need to multiply the result by the total area of the cladding. For example, you need to cover a section of a wall 3x2 meters, which means the working area is 6 square meters. Let's do the calculations:
6x0.16=0.96
We add another 10% in reserve: 0.96+10%=1.056 kg.
That is, to process the seams you need to buy a little more than a kilogram of grout. If you have not yet decided on the tile, keep in mind that the smaller its size and the greater its thickness, the more grout mixture is consumed. Increases the consumption rate and relief of the facing material.
Learning to grout seams correctly is not at all difficult, the main thing is to have the desire. First of all, you need to remember that working with a fugue requires great care, because it is easy to stain the tiles, but more difficult to clean. Some types of grout can leave indelible marks on the tiles, which greatly spoils the appearance of the cladding. So if you take a fugu that is very different in color from finishing material, test it on one of the tiles first.
To do this you need to dilute a small amount of grout mixture (a teaspoon is enough), apply it to front side tiles and wait until dry. Now try to wipe the grout off the surface with a damp sponge: if there are colored spots left on the tile, it is better to replace the grout with a more neutral one or use an impregnate.
As a last resort, buy a bag for applying grout, which will allow you to distribute the mixture along the seam more accurately.
Before you start grouting, you should prepare everything you need:
Tools for grouting are available in every hardware store and are inexpensive. By the way, a mixer may not be useful - some manufacturers recommend mixing the composition manually, for example with a trowel or metal spatula. Information about this is sure to be in the instructions located on the package, so immediately read everything that is written there carefully.
According to the rules, grouting the tile joints in the bathroom with your own hands is done at least a day after finishing the tiling, but it is better to wait 2-3 days. During this time, the glue will have time to dry well and there will be no moisture left under the tile. Another important condition– the surface must be perfectly clean and dry. If you do not remove excess glue immediately after cladding, you will have to scrape it dry using a metal spatula or knife. Once the seams are clean, wipe everything down with a clean rag.
If the grout left marks on the tile during testing, before processing the joints it is necessary to protect the surface of the cladding using impregnates or fillers. This liquid formulations, which after application form a dense elastic film and prevent the dye from penetrating deep. Upon completion of the treatment of the seams, they are easily washed off along with the remnants of the grout. They are sold in construction stores, mainly in plastic container volume 1 l. This amount is enough for 10-15 meters of area, depending on the porosity of the material. One of the most popular is the German-made Sopro AH737 impregnate.
The drug is ready for use, it does not contain solvents or other aggressive substances, and has no pungent odor. Used at temperatures not lower than 5 and not higher than 25 degrees.
How to use the impregnate: pour the liquid into a wide container for convenience, dip the sponge, squeeze it lightly and carefully apply it to the tiles, avoiding getting the preparation into the seams. It takes 30 minutes to dry, but you should start grouting no earlier than after 2 hours. Overly porous surfaces are recommended to be treated twice.
Important! Uneven application of impregnate, especially in large quantities, leads to the formation of stains on the tiles that cannot be removed. And one more thing: the drug cannot be used on glass and PVC tiles.
Each type of grout has its own proportions for mixing, and they are indicated in the manufacturer's instructions. To find out how quickly the grout sets and how it is cleaned from the cladding, make the first portion of the solution small (200-250 g) - just enough for an area of 1-2 m2.
Step 1. Take a clean container and pour ¾ of water from the volume specified in the instructions.
Step 2. Add the dry ingredients in small portions, mixing the contents well with a spatula each time.
Step 3. Pour in the remaining water in a thin stream, controlling the consistency of the solution. Stir the mixture intensively until smooth. The finished mixture should be plastic, easily spread with a spatula.
Step 4. Leave the grout for 8-10 minutes, after which mix well again. Now the solution is ready for use.
Important! If kneading is done using a mixer, the rotation speed should not exceed 300 rpm. At higher speeds, air bubbles form in the solution, and this will weaken the solidity of the grout.
Method 1. Apply the grout to the tile with a spatula, take a grout float, apply it to the surface at an angle of 30 degrees and distribute the composition diagonally with even movements. Each section is passed 2-3 times, rubbing the mixture forcefully along the seams.
The harder you rub, the more tightly the seams are filled. The liquid is squeezed out from the solution, and the remaining components are compressed and form a solid, reliable barrier against the penetration of moisture and dirt under the tile.
Rubber spatula
Scoop up a little mixture with a rubber spatula and apply it to the seam in horizontal strokes. Then place the spatula at an angle to the surface and remove the excess with a quick movement parallel to the seam.
All strokes are made with force, carefully rubbing the mixture along the seams. If the solution is prepared correctly, there will be no problems with filling the joints. But if you make the composition more liquid than it should be, it will constantly crawl out and be unevenly distributed among the recesses. After drying, this solution shrinks greatly and the lining has to be processed again. This is another reason why the trial portion should be small. When applying epoxy grout, it is recommended to use a small metal spatula, since it is quite difficult to grind a dense and very viscous mass with a rubber one.
First, all seams are rubbed vertically, then horizontally, or vice versa. You should not process every tile around the perimeter - it will take more time, and there may be voids left at the joints. If the tile has holes for the outlet of communications, the gaps around the circumference are also sealed with a fugue.
Method 3. If the tile is quite porous and has not been impregnated with a filler, it is best to apply grout using a bag. It looks just like a piping bag, and the hole in the tip matches the width of the seam. Instead of a store-bought one, you can use a homemade one: take a thick plastic bag and carefully cut off the very tip so that the diameter of the resulting hole does not exceed the distance between the tiles.
Homemade “syringe” for filling joints with grout
The bag is filled with grout, the tip is inserted into the seam and the mixture is squeezed out, while simultaneously moving the bag along the recess. First fill the horizontal seams, then the vertical ones. To compact the mass, you will need jointing or a piece of smooth metal tube, the diameter of which is slightly larger than the width of the seam. After applying the mixture, you should wait until it begins to set, and then begin tamping, pressing the solution with force using the jointer. Excess grout is immediately removed with a spatula.
Wet surface cleaning
Regardless of the grouting method, after some time you need to wash the seams and the surface of the tile. This is usually done after 20-30 minutes, when the solution has set well, but has not yet hardened completely. For washing you only need pure water room temperature and a thick sponge. The sponge is moistened with water and the traces of grout are intensively washed away in a circular motion. Please note that the sponge needs to be washed as often as possible, as well as changing the water. You should not rub along the seam - this way you can wash off the excess, and you will have to seal the grooves again.
For an experienced craftsman, after washing, all the seams look perfectly even and smooth, but for a person without experience, as a rule, minor defects remain. To eliminate them, you need to re-mix a little grout and carefully inspect each joint. If you notice an error, apply the mixture, but only with a narrow spatula. It is not advisable to use a grout float or bag to fill small defects. After this, rinse the lining again with clean water.
Dry cleaning
When dry cleaning, the seam is smoothed and leveled using jointing. Can also be used for these purposes wooden stick with a sharpened end, a piece of rigid cable, even the end of a toothbrush handle. The main thing is to run it evenly along the seam to remove excess.
After this, the joints are wiped with a sponge. After a few hours, the entire surface should be thoroughly wiped with a dry, clean cloth to remove any deposits that have formed. Since this raises dust, which is quite caustic, it is better to work in a respirator.
Video - Do-it-yourself grouting of tiles in the bathroom
