Insulation of the armored belt on the open veranda. In this article we will tell you how to insulate an armored belt outside the walls of a house. We have open verandas on each side of the house. One veranda is visible in the photo. Since when building a house from gas silicate blocks, an armopoy is required, we made it in the form of a monolithic continuous strip along the entire perimeter of the building. We lived through the first winter without completely insulating all the cold bridges. because The cold weather has already set in and all insulation work has been stopped. Over the next summer, we not only insulated the base, but also insulated the armored belt that runs along the open veranda.
To cut off the cold bridge at the entrance to the room - and with the cold bridge in in this case is part of a reinforced monolithic belt located above open veranda- it must be properly insulated. Before starting work, we carefully cleaned the reinforced concrete armored belt from construction debris, dust and dirt accumulated over the year with a stiff metal brush. Any detected remains of masonry mortar or other large irregularities were previously removed. A hammer or a sturdy scraper work well for this purpose. Then these places were also cleaned with a wire brush. After cleaning, we coated the entire insulated area with primer. For this work, “Universal soil for internal and external works"or any other primer and a stiff brush for facade works. 
We used sheets as insulation in the packaging. extruded polystyrene foam(EPS) "TechnoNikol" 30 mm thick - that's enough. EPPS - thermal insulation material, which does not rot, does not swell or get wet, does not shrink, and is durable. Manufacturers of extruded polystyrene foam recommend it for insulating foundations, plinths, blind areas, floors, flat roofs and other designs. To isolate the cold bridge, it is enough to insulate the armored belt at a distance of up to 1 meter from the entrance to the house. This insulation is sufficient to prevent heat loss at this point. However, for aesthetic purposes, we insulated the reinforced belt along its entire length: because it is visible both from the veranda and from the street, so we decided to make it the same size (the same thickness) on all sides. In order to purchase required quantity EPS, it is necessary to calculate the insulation area. You will also need a composition for reinforcing and fastening EPS boards to reinforced concrete beam, which is also an armored belt. We used "Glue-114" for thermal insulation boards made of polystyrene foam. Rules for use and the required amount of glue can also be calculated using the instructions on the package. And the last thing is necessary:
The reinforcing belt significantly increases the resistance of the walls block house loads from outside and inside. It combines the wall elements into a single structural complex and serves as a stiffening rib.
The armored belt needs insulation: in winter, cold air enters the building through it, and temperature fluctuations can cause the wall to collapse.
Insulation is always carried out from the outside, not from the inside. If it was not performed during the construction of the house, it must be performed when the house is already built and completed Finishing work.
If the difference between the width of the belt and the wall is sufficient, the insulation, together with the subsequent cladding, will be flush with the wall sheathing. 
Carrying out insulation work must be done with heat-insulating material of a thickness suitable for installing it in the gap between the reinforced belt and the wall line.
Experts recommend extruded polystyrene foam, since thin sheets of regular foam are very brittle.
If the distance is wide enough, it is better to use 80mm polystyrene foam. To ensure that the belt does not protrude beyond the plane, take into account the width of the skin:
The use of mineral wool as insulation requires a ventilation gap between the heat insulator and outer skin because it absorbs moisture.
When choosing a method of insulation, take into account whether there is a gap between the sheathing and the reinforced belt. 
Additional insulation is installed along the perimeter of the facade to the height of the reinforced belt. A building with two floors requires two insulation belts, if one is located between the floors, and the second is made under the Mauerlat.
The insulating part of the armored belt is equal to its height with an addition of 150 mm on each side. The heat insulator is installed with a margin of 15 cm from the upper and lower lines of the reinforced belt.
Insulation external walls house made of blocks is carried out as follows:
In order for the insulation to last longer, you will need to install an ebb with a drip, made of galvanized metal and coated with polyester, in the upper part of the belt. It is located with a slope from the wall. This element is needed to remove precipitation from the armored belt.
External insulation can be done using sprayed polyurethane foam. But this is a rather expensive material, requiring a special spraying apparatus, and is highly toxic. Independent work not recommended - you will have to hire a professional.
To carry out foaming, you will need to make holes with a distance of no more than 250–300 mm through the skin along the line of the reinforced belt. Foam is poured into every second hole. 
This method allows you to do high-quality insulation armored belt and will reduce material consumption.
Be sure to use professional foam - the insulating layer will last for several years and will not crumble.
Watch the video:
With proper insulation, in winter the reinforcing belt will not let through cold air and the building will last a long time.
Aerated concrete is an excellent alternative to brick. However, unfortunately, the strength indicator of aerated concrete blocks is much lower. The material does not hold fasteners on its surface well.
Masonry made of aerated concrete blocks has its own characteristics:
When conducting construction work with violation technological rules Cracking of blocks may occur under the influence of roof pressure.
Reinforced belt is called monolithic design located around the entire perimeter of the building. The armored belt protects the walls of the house from destruction and deformation under the influence of loads. The technology for strengthening the wall surface of an object involves laying a load-bearing belt between the floors of each floor and in the place of roofing.
To ensure the functionality of the armored belt, its structure must be:
Main components of the armored belt:
The purpose of the design is:
The design ensures strength and reliability load-bearing walls, increases the structure’s resistance to wind, temperature changes, seismic vibrations, soil shrinkage and the construction site itself.
The dimensions of the armored belt depend on the design feature building material to which it needs to be attached. The wall can be internal or external. For each category, builders consider their own specific requirements regarding the size of the structure.
It is possible to install a unloading belt for walls made of aerated concrete blocks in several ways:
When comparing these two methods, it can be noted that equipping walls with an armored belt using wooden formwork is technologically more difficult to implement. The second method, using additional blocks, is much simpler, but you will have to invest in it large quantity funds due to the use of expensive building materials.
The unloading belt is not laid:
In the case, it is enough to pour concrete platforms five centimeters thick under the beams, playing a supporting role, which will reliably protect building blocks from pushing.
IN reinforced concrete structures there's no point in additional protection due to the uniform distribution of the load on the walls
The formwork for the unloading belt is wooden frame. It is made from scraps of boards fastened together along the outside.
After the formwork is completely assembled, its lower part is attached to the wall with self-tapping screws, and the upper part with transverse board ties at intervals of eighty to one hundred centimeters. The screed is necessary to make the structure reliable, otherwise when pouring concrete, it may be deformed or crushed.
Before constructing the structure, you should first worry about purchasing the necessary building materials:
Construction tools used:
The technological process involves performing work in several stages:
Reinforcement is made from reinforcement rods with a diameter of eight to twelve millimeters.
The principle of the process is:
Knitting of reinforcing bars should be done directly in the formwork. In its finished form, the reinforcement frame is heavy. If the structure is assembled separately, it will be difficult to lift and place it. It is recommended to lay a layer of stones or bricks between the aerated concrete blocks and the frame of the unloading belt.
When purchasing dry concrete mixture It is necessary to use material markings not lower than M200.
If there is no product of the required characteristics in the store, you can prepare it yourself, using the following proportions in the ratio of components:
To increase the density of the composition, crushed stone can be replaced with gravel. After mixing the dry elements, you should in small portions add water, the amount of which should correspond to twenty percent of the total amount of the mixture.
The concrete pouring technology provides standards for the performance of work, which should be performed to obtain the desired functional result:
The formwork can be used not wooden structures, and the blocks are made of aerated concrete U shape Required condition This type of building material is characterized by the presence of an internal cavity, which is necessary for laying a frame of reinforcement and pouring concrete.
Tray-type blocks are laid the same width as the walls. It is convenient to install such a belt on external walls because it performs an additional insulating function, while eliminating the formation of cold “bridges”.
The method is simple and requires the prior purchase of building material - ten-centimeter-thick prefabricated blocks. Before purchasing, you should calculate the required amount of material based on the planned height of the structure and the perimeter of the object.
The loading belt can be designed using brickwork, reinforced with reinforcing mesh. It is less reliable than concrete and is applicable only for small outbuildings. To increase strength indicators brick construction It is recommended to use reinforcement or metal welded mesh.
Features of the structure:
Strengthening walls with bricks with built-in reinforcement mesh cannot fully replace adding reliability structural elements using a reinforced concrete analogue.
The most important feature of aerated concrete is its low thermal conductivity, which ensures that a structure built from it does not freeze, even at the lowest ambient temperature. Therefore, when constructing a reinforcing structure, it is important that it does not violate the thermal insulation properties of the house.
During the cold season, as well as during periods of sudden temperature changes, condensation may occur on the reinforced belt. In order to avoid this phenomenon, it is recommended to carry out work on insulating the structure.
Expanded polystyrene, polystyrene foam and mineral wool can be used as insulating heat-insulating elements. In some cases they use aerated concrete blocks
with partitions. When using mineral wool, a small ventilation gap should be left between the insulation and the facing surface.
Made of reinforced concrete.
The armored belt can be insulated either during construction (this is the surest way) or some time after construction is completed.
We will not consider the reasons for lack of insulation reinforced belt simultaneously with construction - there can be many reasons for this. Let's just look at all the options we know.
IMPORTANT! Insulation must be carried out only from the outside of the building!
In this case, you can effectively insulate the armored belt and, if the width allows, make insulation and further cladding flush with the cladding of the entire wall. To do this, you need to take insulation, the width of which allows you to place it in the gap between the reinforced belt and the wall line.
It is likely that you will have to use EPS, because... thin foam is very fragile. If the width still allows, use 80 mm polystyrene foam. To ensure that the belt does not stand out on the facade, you need to take into account the width of the cladding: facing brick. tile or plaster.
If you use mineral wool as insulation, do not forget about the need for a ventilation gap between the mineral wool and the facing brick.
In this case, it is necessary to perform additional insulation along the entire facade to the height of the reinforced belt. If in two-story house the reinforced belt is made between the first and second floors and after the second floor under the mauerlat, then two insulating belts will need to be made along the facade.
To make it look aesthetically pleasing and durable, you must follow some rules:
For external insulation, you can also use sprayed polyurethane foam (PPU), which can be closed on top metal profile. We do not recommend doing the work yourself, since it is very toxic (or rather, one of its components is toxic) and a spraying installation is required - it is better to use the services of specialized companies.
Through the cladding along the armored belt line, it is necessary to make holes for pouring polyurethane foam into the gap between external cladding and a wall (belt). The pitch between the holes is no more than 25 -30 cm.
Foaming is carried out alternately through one hole. That is, foam the odd numbered holes (1,3,5, etc.) first and wait until the foam hardens. Then you can foam the even-numbered holes. With this approach, you will be able to efficiently insulate the armored belt and reduce the cost of foam. Be sure to use professional foam - in the long run it will be more profitable than doing repeated insulation after a couple of years due to the shedding of foam.
An unusual new (for us) material is thermos paint "Isollat" is a liquid ultra-thin coating for thermal insulation of walls, facades, pipelines, building structures. A 1 mm thick layer of this modern material replaces 40 mm of mineral wool or 200 mm of expanded polystyrene.
“Isollat”, in addition to an extensive list of properties, helps to significantly reduce the thermal conductivity of structures. We did not use this material, but if you are interested, you can read in detail here: www.isollat.ru.
Get acquainted, study - perhaps you will be interested.
See you again, dear readers of our blog!
Which technology is best to use to achieve this goal?
What materials should I use?
Much will depend on the materials of the walls of the house and its design features. View all possible options it will be quite difficult, so we will focus on houses built from blocks, which are popular nowadays various types and insulation made of polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam.
To achieve optimal results, it is important to install thermal insulation correctly, protecting all parts of the residential building from the effects of cold.
Insulating a house from the outside operates on the principle of a thermos, capable of maintaining the temperature inside for a long time. In a thermos, this effect is achieved partly due to air gap surrounding the inner flask, in our case, insulating the outside of the house with polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam will help reduce heat loss.
The greatest effect can be achieved if thermal insulation is installed during the construction process, since it is more difficult to insulate a house efficiently if they are already living in it.
Ordinary polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam is suitable as good thermal insulation for block walls. But before you begin installation, you must complete the following: preparatory work:
For insulating the armored belt, pressed mineral wool 100 mm thick is best suited. It must be laid in such a way as to protect everything from freezing. structural elements the top of the wall. First of all, you need to pay attention to the mortgages mounted in the armored belt. After the trusses are installed and secured in the desired position, it is necessary to cut out parts from mineral wool in order to insulate the anchors on all sides that support the load-bearing structures of the roof.
The space under the heels of the trusses must be filled with concrete.
Insulation elements in this case will serve as formwork.
Protection of the anchor connection from the cold will not be complete unless it is covered with insulation on top.
It is also important to fill all the gaps between the heat-insulating parts with foam.
When all the truss fastenings are protected from the cold, you can cover the remaining parts of the armored belt with insulation, foaming the joints between installed elements thermal insulation (1), as well as their connection with concrete surface (2).
The next step leading to the installation of thermal insulation on the wall is the preparation of beacons that will help to correctly install the foam, creating a strictly vertical plane. For lighthouses, it is best to use 16 pieces of reinforcement about 30 cm long (4 for each wall).
The pin is driven into the wall at a distance of 10-20 cm from the corner (so as not to break off a piece of concrete). To do this, holes are pre-drilled with a hammer drill to a depth of 5-10 cm, the diameter of which must correspond to the thickness of the reinforcement. One pin needs to be hammered into each corner of the wall, at the top and bottom.
As you can see in the two previous photographs, a fishing line is stretched between the upper and lower reinforcement, which is important to set plumb. Its distance from the wall should correspond to the sum of three components - the thickness of the foam, the thickness of the layer of adhesive mixture and 2-3 mm of reserve, which will not allow the fishing line to touch the installed insulation. For 100 mm thick foam plastic, this distance is usually about 12-15 cm, if the wall plane is fairly level.
Between the vertical lines, movable horizontal lines are stretched, along which they are mainly oriented when installing thermal insulation.
The width of the galvanized profile must correspond to the thickness of the thermal insulation board. It is installed so that it lies on the horizontal surface of the foundation insulation.
The profile is secured using “quick installation” dowels (1), having first aligned its outer edge along a thread (2) stretched between the two lower beacons.
As you can see in the illustration, the profile is not mounted to the cinder block, but just below the level of the top of the foundation. Thus, by installing a 100 mm wide profile close to the concrete, you can expect that there will be a certain space for the adhesive mixture between the installed insulation and the wall. This is possible due to the fact that vertical surfaces the foundation and cinder block masonry are not at the same level, and there is a small step between them.
If the design of the building is such that the surface of the foundation and the wall are one plane, or if the profile is installed above the level of the foundation, then it will be necessary to make special brackets that allow you to leave some distance between the wall and the profile during its installation.
This space definitely needs to be filled polyurethane foam.
Please note: Mounting the profile so that its outer edge is strictly parallel to the thread will not be easy due to the fact that for the fastening element you need to drill a hole in the concrete through the metal of the side wall of the profile. Deformation of the sheet metal in one place can provoke a change in the shape of the product in its neighboring parts. Therefore, when doing this work for the first time, you may have to adapt. When driving in the dowel, you should also be careful not to bend the edges of the profile, which will cause it outer side may rise.
Once the preparatory work has been completed, you can begin installing the thermal insulation. For the first row of slabs, the previously installed guide profile serves as the basis. To fix the foam on the cinder block wall, use a mounting mixture intended for this purpose, which is pre-mixed using a mixer.
The finished substance is applied in the form of several blobs onto inner side insulation, evenly distributing them over the surface.
When installing the first row, the lower part of the insulation board is inserted at an angle into the guide profile, carefully bringing its top closer to the wall surface.
As you can see in the photo of the installation of the first row of insulation boards illustrating the insulation of cinder block walls, so that the fishing line does not interfere with installing the foam in its place, it must be temporarily pulled back. Later, when the bloopers touch the wall, you need to release the line and gradually press down on the top of the slab until a gap of about 1-2 mm is formed between it and the thread.
Please note: Once the foam has been pressed against the wall, it should not be pulled back. Distributing under pressure into narrow space, the thickness of the layer of the mounting mixture decreases, due to which it will no longer be able to perform its function. Therefore, it is better to press the slab against the wall as carefully as possible in order to line it up the first time.
Installation of the second row of slabs is carried out in a similar way, only without a guide profile. First, the bottom of the foam is installed at an angle, and then it is aligned along the thread top part.
To reduce the likelihood of errors, you can install a second row of two fishing lines.
When installing the second and subsequent rows of foam plastic, it will be necessary to cut parts from whole slabs for installation in window and doorways.
It is also important to install the insulation according to the principle of brickwork (each next row is shifted by half the length of the slab).
After the top row of slabs is joined to mineral wool lying on the armored belt (1), all seams between the insulation elements (2) should be foamed.
In addition, you need to strengthen the slabs with plastic dowels. To do this you need to perform the following 3 operations:
1.Drill a hole in the wall through the foam using a hammer drill.
2.Insert a mushroom dowel there.
3. Carefully hammer a plastic nail into the hole in the dowel.
Please note: Umbrellas must be installed in such a way that their caps do not rise, but are recessed 1-2 mm into the foam.
The places where the dowels are driven in must subsequently be covered with an adhesive mixture.
Of course, insulating a cinder block house using the method described above is not all that can be done to improve its energy efficiency.
You can also carry out a number of insulation measures inside the building and install a more economical heating system in it.
However, having implemented in the right way Only external insulation, you can already significantly save your costs during the heating season.
