Quite simple: the bunk bed you are about to draw will require concentration. The dimensions of any product depend on the size of the room, the height of the ceilings, the availability of free space, and blank walls. And the staircase to the second tier also requires space, so you will have to add 5-7 centimeters in width to the place where the staircase joins.
However, look at the drawings: there are several of them, it is possible that some option will be ideal. In other cases, adjust the dimensions.
For children, there are certain furniture standards: sleeping space - one and a half meters plus 8 cm, width - 70 cm plus 10 cm, the width of the space under the stairs adds an additional 5 centimeters.
I just want to shout: “Drawings to the studio!” But here it’s just the height that needs to be dealt with. The higher, the warmer: the law of physics, so you shouldn’t make the second bed or the upper tier of the loft crib right under the ceiling. Children love to play at heights, so make sure that if they fall on the floor, they will not receive life-threatening injuries. And it’s even better if only bruises and a couple of bumps are left, or without them at all: this is where the railings will come to the rescue.
But you shouldn’t make a low bed either: the child’s height is such that his head does not have to touch the upper sleeping place, and besides, adults also like to sit down on the lower floor with their child. The drawing must also meet these requirements, so measure the child’s height with the condition that he will still grow. And don’t forget about the ceiling: in Khrushchev buildings it is 2500 cm. Do you immediately subtract the thickness of the mattress? This is about 20 centimeters and only now begin competent calculations. Standard option– 180x80 cm.
Pine is quite acceptable for your own hands, besides it is soft and cheap. To build the frame you will need timber: 140x18 and 140x30. Thick plywood is used on the bed, but it’s better to buy a metal ladder. If you don’t have plywood, then you can buy chipboard, only laminated. It’s harder to work with, but it’s also possible if you have a power tool at hand.
Base under children's mattress– 185 by 90 cm, but these dimensions do not have to be taken into account: it depends on how much your child weighs and how tall he is. It is better to buy risers: the market offers steel pipes coated with plastic. Buy fasteners there, as well as plugs, so that curious children do not try to unscrew the washers and not collapse the structure.
If a second child has appeared in the family, then in order to save space in the bedroom and money in your wallet, a do-it-yourself children's bunk bed is perfect. The process itself requires the availability of the necessary tools:
Making a bunk bed with your own hands is not difficult if you have certain skills in such work. It is also important to have a good idea of the end result, which is a significant incentive. Knowing where the bed will be located, you can make sure in advance that it fits perfectly into the interior of the children's room. It is necessary to take into account the dimensions of the sleeping place and correlate them with the prepared materials. During the work you will need:
You need to carefully assemble a children's bunk bed with your own hands: it will serve the children well and, in a certain sense, will become another home for them.
Here it is better to cut once, but you need to measure seven times so that the product matches the interior and is reliable in all respects. The process is simple, but requires precision and accuracy in everything.
This operation applies to both the lower and upper tier. We firmly fix them with screws to the bars at a distance of thirty centimeters from each other
You need firm confidence in what size the sleeping place will be and on which side to install the vertical ladder. The size of the bed is larger than the sleeping place in length by about eight centimeters and in width by ten centimeters. The ladder increases the size of the product by approximately 4.5 centimeters.
To choose the optimal bed height, you need to take into account the height of the ceiling in the children's room. The distance between the second and first tiers is of great importance. There should be enough space for the mother to sit next to the child if necessary.
For the racks and stairs you need solid wood blocks and boards. The end panels are the same for the entire product, this simplifies their preparation. The width of the side panels is equal to the end panels, which gives the bed an aesthetic completeness. The dissimilarity of their connection with each other ensures the originality of the composition.
Based on the size of the mattresses that will need to be laid on the bed, then you need to increase the size on each side by two centimeters. This will make it easier to tuck in the bed linen. The convenience of the product is the most important guideline in this work.
As for the first tier, its lowest position as a new sleeping place can be established by taking as the basis for calculations the height that the baby overcomes with almost no effort on his part. Usually this is up to thirty-five centimeters for a child who has not yet turned three years old. Accordingly, the frame for laying the mattress will be lower by its thickness. But for the second tier, its maximum upper position is set taking into account the fact that an older child, whose bedroom is upstairs, can, if desired, sit down on the lower floor and at the same time not touch his head to the second flooring.
For the frame of a children's bunk bed, its reliability comes first, while the aesthetic side remains in the background. The beams must be firmly connected using screws. As a result, two frames approximately identical in appearance come out. They complement each other perfectly aesthetically.
You need to screw the board to the end and one side, taking into account the importance of this fastening. It is better to screw the self-tapping screws with inside and make sure they don't go all the way through the board. For short self-tapping screws, it is permissible to drill larger holes by using a depth stop on the drill.
The side is also placed on the second frame. It is best to hide the mounting holes with putty and, after drying, sand it with sandpaper. The length of the leg should be in harmony with the height of the fence. The main thing is that the leg can withstand the expected load.
You need to make a hole in the leg where the second tier will be attached, and approximately the same hole in the frame with a side. The leg still needs such recesses that would make it possible to easily hide both the hexagonal head of the screw and the washer. The hole should be of such depth that the screw, piercing the side and leg, is securely fastened in the beam.
A children's bunk bed has another discreet specificity. Under the ground floor you can make a small but quite cozy bed box and put many of the necessary things there, including sheets and pillowcases for the bed. A child can store his favorite toys in this box. The front panel of the drawer is not as long as that of the bed. Height – fully consistent front panel first floor, which aesthetically looks very good, complementing the design of the children's room.
Whenever we deal with construction, even if it is miniature construction, the choice of manufacturing technology and material comes first.
It is best to use a wooden board as the basis for the structure. Of course, its high-quality preparation requires some effort. It is necessary to level it using a plane, sand it with sandpaper, and then apply varnish to extend the service life of the product.
It costs nothing to establish the location of the racks if the walls are made of plasterboard. It is important to accurately determine the location where the hole is needed. Here you will need an assistant to support the frame from below, pressing it firmly against the walls.
Guide holes must be made by drilling the rack profile, drywall, and frame timber. It is necessary to prepare places for screwing in screws with hexagonal heads. There is no way to do this without a long drill. The screws must be screwed in so that they connect necessary elements and locked into the racks. The lower tier, that is, the frame with a side, is installed in a similar manner.
The fence is of great importance in the overall design, since it creates certain safety guarantees for children.
The fence can be made of durable boards that are secured to vertical posts. Here too, you should try to screw in the screws from the inside. Moreover, you need to keep in mind that there should be an opening in the fence for the stairs leading to the second tier.
A vertical staircase is easier to make and takes up less space compared to an inclined staircase. First of all, it is necessary to properly secure two beams that will guide the child’s movement when ascending and descending. The steps for it are securely fixed with 6 mm bolts. Bolts that are longer should be used when attaching the top step with synchronous fixation of the ladder to the bed.
Of course, the tree needs significant pre-treatment. If instead of wood, when making a children's bunk bed, you use laminated chipboard, then in this case some of the technological operations will remain on the sidelines of the process. Instead, you will only need to process and glue the edge onto the chipboard cuts. In practice, there will be a gain in time, appearance– will also gain a little.
Laminated chipboard has good characterization in terms of wear resistance and strength.
It is necessary to saw laminated chipboard outside, but the final work, with minimal dust and odor, can be comfortably carried out in the apartment. It is necessary to take into account the difference in quality and specificity of the material and make certain clarifications in the manufacturing technology. Essentially, they are not very significant. A children's bed made from a laminated board will be several times heavier than one made from a board, but the product will gain additional stability.
When using chipboard, you will need completely different tools than in the case of wood:
To make a children's bunk bed with good quality, you will need not only laminated chipboard as a material, but also edges, glue, sandpaper, and wood will only be needed for the ladder leading to the second tier.
A big advantage in this case is the limited number of technological operations during operation. They should only include
Bed fastening and finishing
Connecting the parts of a children's bunk bed is critical. It is best to properly connect the posts and side panels at the beginning of the process, then firmly fix the end panels to the side panels. The result is a strong and reliable supporting structure. The frame intended for the mattress rests on bars attached from the inside to the side panels.
The upper tier ultimately has two boxes: with narrow panels and wide end ones. Meanwhile, at the lower tier, the narrow panels at the end will already be outside the box. This is not in vain, because they have a special role. They are fixed with spikes and bolts in the lower part to the bed posts, covering the junction of the two levels, acting as a spacer, which completely eliminates the displacement of the posts of the lower tier in relation to the upper one. As for displacement in the direction of the longitudinal axis, inserted tenons are protected from it in the joint area.
In addition, all panels have additional fasteners; they are fixed to each other with insert pins and glue. They can be fixed to the racks using special furniture bolts with decorative heads. Similarly, you need to consider the fastening of the stairs leading up. The stability of the entire product also depends on it.
The finishing of a children's bunk bed has both aesthetic and practical significance. Meticulous polishing of the blanks before they begin to be assembled into a kind of two-story complex helps the new furniture fit into the existing design and increases its service life. The same can be said about painting with enamel using several layers. It’s beautiful, but it’s also good for the wood, which makes the product look even more attractive.
Beds are used in very different ways and every adult understands this. Hedonists prefer to recline on eight-seater negadromes in the company of beautiful odalisques, and a private in the Red Army dreams of a trestle bed closer to the stove. The middle option is a bed without any frills, but multi-purpose. A do-it-yourself chipboard bed can satisfy the needs of people of different classes and inclinations, if you think through its design.
This is the kind of bed we will make from chipboard.
Nature teaches us: The best solution is always the simplest. Minimum parts – maximum efficiency and strength. An example of this is amoebas, ciliates and other small rubbish. They are able to survive anyone, and did not care about changes in the situation. The base of our bed must be durable and indifferent, so we choose a box structure without legs.
If we take the average model with fitted standard sheet Laminated chipboard with the dimensions of the parts, then we will make it for a spring mattress of 2000x1400x200 millimeters. Such a bed can be considered a double bed if your belly does not interfere with tying your shoelaces, and your wife’s dress fits in her cosmetic bag.
The bottom of the bed in the photo is made of plywood - but this option is for mass production. In a single case, it is easier to purchase one sheet of laminated chipboard and one sheet of cheaper sanded chipboard. The bottom will be one piece, not composite, which is structurally much more advantageous.
If you are making a bed from laminated chipboard with your own hands, you will have to order cutting from companies equipped with a professional cutting machine. There is no point in spoiling materials yourself at home when it is possible to blame the failure on specialists and force them to redo defective fragments.
List of parts made of laminated chipboard 16 mm thick:
You will still have a bunch of scraps left from the laminated chipboard sheet, on which it makes sense to practice in subsequent operations, such as gluing the edges and drilling.
Details made of sanded chipboard (no one will see them):
Draw on a scale the location of the parts on each sheet and give the drawing to the sawyer - it will be more reliable.
Before making a bed from laminated chipboard, you need to clearly understand its design and determine the degree of reliability of the fasteners. The second picture shows the bed “in section” along with partitions. All ties are made using confirmations and are additionally duplicated with metal corners of 30x30 millimeters. The corners must be “sharpened” for 4x16 mm self-tapping screws.
Bed assembly diagram
Exactly these corners will serve as additional support for the bottom of the bed. As can be seen in the drawing, they need to be screwed along the entire perimeter of the box - that is, to the backs and sides. Naturally, the level of the upper “shoulder” of the corners should coincide with the height of the partitions = 300 mm.
From below to the backs and sides you can (but not necessarily) attach so-called “hooves” - plastic legs that protect the floor from scratches when moving the bed. They will also allow you to adjust the level of the structure standing on an uneven floor.
Important! This bed must be positioned in such a way that none of its corners “hangs in the air.” Under the weight of the spring mattress and the people themselves, it will, of course, stand on all supports, but at the same time, the tension in the material will create a threat of destruction.
An insufficiently level or lumpy floor is the main enemy of all chipboard products.
Our regular friends have already read about the method of edging parts at home. We'll give additional information to the rest.
A regular 16 mm thick melamine edge with an adhesive base is perfectly glued to the end of the parts using an iron heated to three-quarters of the power. Gently iron it several times and run a dry cloth over it to help the edges adhere better.
The edge is slightly wider than the laminated chipboard and the edges of the glued parts must be sanded with fine-grained sandpaper, after cutting off the excess plastic with a blunt knife. With a sharp one, you can easily damage the laminate, which will not add beauty to the bed.
Confirmats are not fundamentally different from standard self-tapping screws - the only difference is in size. We drill the plane through, with a diameter of 8 mm, and the end of the part to be fastened with a 5 mm drill and to a depth of approximately 60 mm.
The dimensions are indicated for 5x70 mm confirmations, which are easy to buy in furniture fittings stores.
It doesn’t matter at what distance from each other the partitions are mounted. The main thing is that they are parallel to each other and perpendicular to the sidewalls. About a third of the length from the backs - and without a micrometer.
Separately, neither the confirmation screed nor the corners will give you the required structural strength, so duplicate and don’t be lazy. The bottom can simply be placed on top, but it is better to place the bed “on the butt” and secure it with self-tapping screws, screwing it to the corners.
Actually, by this point it is already clear how to make a bed from chipboard with your own hands... All that remains is to put a mattress on the bottom, and on top of the mattress something attractive, like your beloved wife or a teddy bear. But that's up to your taste.
Here we sought to illustrate the ease of making any furniture from laminated chipboard for a person who is not afraid of a drill and a hammer. There is no need to overpay exorbitant sums when shopping in stores: once you understand the basic principle, you can build even the most exotic furniture options with your own hands.
Good luck to you.
A bunk bed is not just a resting and sleeping area for a child, it is a place where children will play, grow and develop. Because of this, children will often have disputes about who should sleep on the lower and who on the upper tier of the bed. For parents, such a sleeping place is also very beneficial. It takes up little space in the room compared to two beds facing each other.
DIY children's bunk bed
There are a lot of different models of beds. You can always choose an option that both you and your baby will like. But such a purchase has one significant drawback - it will punch a serious hole in family budget. Therefore, it is worth thinking about the possibility of making such a bed yourself at home.
This method also has a lot of advantages: the furniture will be made according to individual sizes and designs, and you can also save significantly on components and the work of the craftsman. And who doesn’t dream of earning the fame of a folk craftsman and master?
Children's bunk bed
So, before you start making a children's bunk bed with your own hands, you will need to determine the place in the room where it will be installed, as well as purchase a ready-made mattress and measure all the necessary dimensions of the future piece of furniture. But it is worth remembering that the bed is not made for one year, and therefore it is worth buying a mattress and making the bed itself to grow.
After the mattress has been purchased, you can begin drawing out a plan for the future bed, indicating all the parameters. And don’t think that you can do without a drawing and do everything by eye. It is difficult to make such a complex thing as a children's bunk bed with your own hands without drawings.
You should start preparing lumber for the bed based on the following dimensions:
Handmade items are increasingly gaining popularity. Including furniture. This will take some time, so you will have to be patient. But there are also many advantages to creating the necessary things with your own hands.
Surely you have already come across various ideas for creating sofas or other garden furniture from pallets. Interesting solution for use in different directions. But today we will talk about how to create furniture for your home.
In particular, how to make a bunk bed with your own hands.
Why is it better to make a bed rather than buy it? There are many answers. Let's start with the fact that when creating, you choose the material yourself, and you know exactly its characteristics: strength, reliability. Upon completion of the project, you will be sure that this creation will last a long time and will not fall apart the first time you use it.
Creativity plays an important role in preparing for work.
There are times when a buyer cannot find what he needs in a store. This is especially true for furniture: the size doesn’t fit, you don’t like the design, it looks sloppy, and many other reasons. There are two ways out of this situation: place an individual order or make everything with my own hands. By choosing the second option, you will not have to explain to the contractor what exactly you want and pay a huge amount of money to complete the order.
You can realize all ideas exactly down to the details.
And, of course, one of the main advantages of creating furniture yourself is satisfaction with the result of your own work. It's nice to know that you made the thing yourself.
By making furniture with your own hands, you benefit from:
The only downside is that the process will take longer than purchasing.
So, if you decide make a bunk bed with your own hands - let's get started!
There are many varieties of two-tier models - as much as your imagination allows. Let's look at the most popular ones.
The easiest to make. Consists of two tiers ( sleeping places ) and stairs. Suitable for a nursery with enough space.
This bed does not contain elements of other furniture and significantly saves space.
The sofa on the first tier diversifies both aesthetically and functionally. This model will save more space V room , because you won't need an additional sofa. It can be used as a bed or simply as a place to relax. Well suited for placement in the living room.
To make this model you will additionally need a sofa. It will be built into the structure.
In this model, drawers or shelves are attached to the stairs leading to the second floor, used instead of cabinets. In this case, it will take up a little more space in room than the traditional one.
You can save space by using linen closets or toy closets.
This option significantly saves space in room. Sleeping area located on the second tier, the lower one is intended for the work area. Usually it includes a work table, various shelves and racks. This design is usually chosen for older children (teenagers, students). Basically, such a bed is a single bed, but if desired, two people can be accommodated on the second tier. You can build it in a corner with two sleeping places On the second floor. An important condition When designing this model, strength is important.
The height of the ceilings should be taken into account, since the lower tier must be quite high.
There are various proposals to convert a bunk bed into a triple bed. If child still small, besides the apartment one-room , you can do it with double bed on the first tier. If this product is for baby – you can place both places at the top.
The bed option will depend on the design you choose.
Such models are very popular as they save a lot of space. It consists of a table, cabinets and sleeping place . A table or a mattress can be retractable.
If you don’t have enough free space in your room and your child is already going to school, you should think about this type of product.
We have figured out which models are the most popular and comfortable, now we will decide what is needed in order to start building a bunk bed.
First of all necessary draw a drawing. The most convenient option will take ready-made diagrams on the Internet, and, focusing on them, create your own project.
You will need to take measurements of the part of the room where the product will be located and determine the size of the structure.
The following data is used in the drawing:
If you are planning lockers, be careful about the distance you need to place them.
Photo ready-made options will help you clearly determine how to make a drawing correctly.
When choosing materials, consider your skills and the range of available tools. Chipboard or solid pine are excellent for work. Let's prepare the tools we need for the job.
You can use sheets of plywood for the base under the mattress.
Depending on whether you will cut the material yourself or entrust it to professionals, we select the set of necessary tools. The best option will cut the boards according to measurements using professional tools in a furniture workshop. Then all you have to do is connect all the parts.
We need instruments and devices for measuring and fixing. You can't do your work without a simple pencil.
For this you will need: a screwdriver, screws, glue, level, drill, hammer, Sander for processing finished product, blank material sawn according to measurements.
Making two-tier furniture is not difficult if you prepare all the necessary tools and remember your existing construction skills.
So, all preparations are completed, you can start making a bunk bed with your own hands.
Now let's move on to creating the back.
Make the second tier in the same way.
Using self-tapping screws and the method of connecting parts “under the countersunk”, attach the ladder to one of the racks.
If necessary, guards can be secured to the top bunk.
If the design involves the presence of drawers, then the ladder should be attached from the outside to the supporting structure rack . Now attach the drawers to the stairs according to the drawing.
It’s worth thinking about decor before production begins, as it can affect the project. Experienced craftsmen can make furniture in the shape of a house, car, or boat. You can attach “branches” instead of stairs, along which “young Mowgli” will climb to the second floor.
U experienced craftsman the bed looks like it came out of the pages of a fairy tale book.
A common option is to add a Swiss wall, athletic rings or rope. Beds with a slope in the form of a slide have earned great popularity.
You can implement any design depending on the imagination and skill of the master.
If you have built a classic model of a bunk bed, and only thought about the design later, then use any textiles for decoration: pillows, hanging decorations. attach the rope.
There are plenty of options that creative people will find it without difficulty.
In general, making a bunk bed with your own hands is not so difficult, moreover, it is profitable and beautiful.
We wish you success in your creativity!
1. Furniture in the interior of a children's room. (Fig. 1)
Choosing furniture for a children's room sometimes requires even more attention than sets for the living room or parents' bedroom. Unlike parents, children have only a children's room for self-expression and relaxation in an apartment or house. And how comfortable the child will be there depends on the arrangement of the children's room. At the same time, the decoration of the room can be modest, made using extraordinary decorative elements. But a children’s room can only be made truly original and cozy by the presence of original and high-quality furniture. ("Children's room with a fairy-tale pirate ship", "Bunk beds in the interior of children's rooms.", "Nautical theme in the interior of a nursery for a boy.", "Fairy-tale classics in the interior of a nursery. photo", "3 different options for mobile furniture in the interior of rooms . ").
Children's furniture sets vary greatly, and this diversity has been written about more than once in articles on this site. Photos will be presented in the text of this article various designs bunk beds and method of their manufacture. Bunk beds have long ceased to serve solely as a sleeping place. Having gone from the most simple models to complex ones, in the form of houses with slides, cabinets and elements sports corners Such models are increasingly taking their place in children's rooms. By using unusual designs of beds, you can organize a whole mini city and use it not only for sleeping, but also for studying, gymnastics and playing with friends. (“Photo gallery of 5 interiors of children’s rooms for girls”, “Photo gallery of 9 children’s rooms with podiums for teenagers.”, “Interiors for small children’s rooms”). . (Fig. 2, 3, 4, 5)
2. Making a bunk bed.
Even the most incredible models of bunk beds are based on the ability to make the simplest design. Having an idea of how its elements can be manufactured and assembled into one whole in the future, studying interesting options, it will be possible to recreate even the most fantastic houses - beds. (“We are building a podium. Photo in the interior”, “Children’s bed podium with bookcase”). (Fig. 6)
To get acquainted with the process of making a bunk bed, we will take as a basis a simple structure consisting of wood and plywood. (Fig. 7)
* The first stage is creating a sketch, calculating estimates and preparing materials with tools.
It will be much easier to make a bed if you have a drawing with dimensions on hand. It is impossible to assemble a bed in one day, and therefore it is especially important to record all the details on paper. . (Fig. 8, 9)
So, to make a bed you will need the following set of tools:
Measuring tools (tape measure, level, metal square, pencil or marker);
Chisel, saws;
Devices for grinding (sanders, sandpaper);
Screwdriver and drill;
Set of screwdrivers, pliers, hammer;
Stainless steel bolts, washers with plugs, similar nails, a set of drills;
Wood glue, paints and painting tools. (“Painting tools, brushes, rollers”, “Carpentry tools”, “Drill and screwdriver”, “Power grinding tools”, “Jigsaws, reciprocating saws, planes, milling machines”).
Based on the size of the bed (height - 1.48 m, length - 2.065 m, width - 0.9 m, height from the floor to the first crossbar - tier - 23 cm, height from the bottom to the top tier is 850 mm), materials must be prepared following:
For the racks you will need 4 pieces of beams with a cross section of 50 mm * 50 mm and a length of 1.48 m.
The side walls are made of boards measuring 100 mm * 25 mm and, accordingly, also in the amount of 4 pieces and a length of 2065 mm.
For cross ties, boards measuring 100 mm * 25 mm - 8 pieces ( external strips), boards 75 mm * 25 mm - 2 pieces (foot), and four beams 50 mm * 25 mm for internal planks (tiers). All of the above must correspond to the width of the bed, which means 0.9 m.
During production, you will also need support bars measuring 25 mm * 25 mm, 4 pieces each, 1.85 m and 0.9 m long.
To arrange the upper tier of the bed, you also need to prepare boards measuring 50 mm * 25 mm and 100 mm * 25 mm, 2 pieces each and 0.75 m long.
To make a ladder to the second tier of the bed you will need beams 50 mm * 25 mm, 2 pieces of each 1.25 m and 1.05 m.
In addition to wood, you will also need two sheets of plywood 1 cm in size and dimensions 1915 mm * 0.9 m. The bases for placing the bed on each tier will be made from them.
Important! The prepared material should be allowed to lie in the room for acclimatization for some time, and before you begin assembling all the parts, they should be thoroughly sanded.
* Stages of assembling a children's bunk bed. (Fig. 10, 11)
Michail RybakovTaking into account the fact that all elements are polished and of the required length, we proceed to assembling the structure and perform the following steps:
On all parts, marks for future fastenings are made with a pencil or marker. Such marks must be made carefully, especially if the bed is not planned to be covered with paint or dark varnish in the future.
It is more convenient to start assembly from the side parts of the bed. To do this, holes are drilled in the side panels and the joints are lubricated with wood glue. Now the elements are bolted together. You can also use metal corners. This will especially help in cases where the bed design is more complex. (Fig. 12)
In a similar way, the side panels are fastened to the transverse boards of the structure. Additionally, auxiliary holes are drilled, which are also coated in the places where the parts join. For this purpose, it is better to lay the bed on the floor and on its side.
The support beams also need to be secured to the pillars of the structure. They are fastened in the manner already described in increments of 15 - 20 cm. In the future, the base plywood will rest on these beams. . (Fig. 13, 14, 15, 16)
When starting to assemble the stairs, prepared external and internal beams are taken. Holes with a diameter of 25 mm are drilled in the internal beams. A pipe will be inserted into these holes, and thus we will get a ladder. The approximate step in this design is 21 cm. The internal bars are attached to longer external bars, they, in turn, need to be secured directly to the assembled bed frame. (Fig. 17)
The finishing touches remain. . (Fig. 18, 19)
Now you can start decorative finishing. A wooden bed can be painted or exposed acrylic varnish. Again, do not forget that the substances must comply with safety standards and are approved for work in residential premises. (“How to cover wood with stain”, “Stain for wood”, “Types of varnishes”). (Fig. 20)
Upon completion of the paintwork and its complete drying, you still need to secure the plywood bases and now you can use the crib.
At this point, the manufacturing and assembly of the bed can be considered complete. One aspect of calculating the size of the bed, or rather its height, remained unmarked. When calculating height, it is necessary to take into account the height of the child. The height of the bottom one should be sufficient so that when the baby gets up, he does not hit the base of the second tier.
3. Extraordinary options for bed designs and interior features of a children's room. (Fig. 21)
Having considered the manufacture of a bed of the simplest design, you can more carefully study other options. For example, a bed using plywood not only for the base, but also for the side walls can make the structure more interesting. The same applies to the use of chipboards. (“Chipboard in the interior. types and methods of processing”). . (Fig. 22, 23, 24)
Interiors with such beds can no longer look boring, but when complemented by colorful wall decorations they turn into a fabulous and unforgettable world. The finishing of the walls, as well as the ceiling, is done using traditional and simple materials, preferably natural or at least those that can withstand numerous wet cleaning. For example, painting water-based paint or wallpapering. Paintable wallpaper also works well as decor in children's rooms. This material can be painted several times, which is very convenient in the living rooms of little fidgets. (“Painting the ceiling”, “Wallpaper for the ceiling. Select, glue, paint”, “High-quality painting - beautiful walls in the apartment”, “Painting walls with water-based paint”, “Some nuances of choosing wallpaper for painting”, “paint for walls”, “Choosing wallpaper for walls”, “Gluing wallpaper from “A” to “Z””).
Particular attention should be paid to the floor covering. In order for children to be able to not only run and jump without harming the flooring, but also actively move something, it is necessary to use reliable, abrasion-resistant material. This could be laminate, linoleum or natural wood, but exclusively High Quality and safe for the child's health. (“How to choose linoleum. Types and features of linoleum.”, “Laminate in the interior”, “Types of parquet”, “Parquet flooring. selection criteria”, “Types of carpet. We lay the carpet ourselves”). . (Fig. 25, 26, 27)
Now about the structures themselves. The number of their types is endless and is limited only by flights of fancy. But there are still some distinctive features and here. And in the following collections of photographs you can clearly see them.
Bunk beds with slides. (Fig. 28, 29, 30, 31)
Now about the structures themselves. The number of their types is endless and is limited only by flights of fancy. But there are still some distinctive features here too. And in the following collections of photographs you can clearly see them - Bunk beds with slides. 28, 29, 30, 31) Michail Rybakov. (Fig. 32, 33, 34)
Beds of unusual and even marvelous shape. (Fig. 35)
In some rooms, corners are completely built up with beds, thus creating a room within a room. The photo shows two options for such mini houses. The peculiarity of these structures is that the component load-bearing parts are attached not only to each other, but also to the walls, ceiling and floor. . (Fig. 36, 37)
And finally, just interesting designs and themed interiors. Children's rooms for boys photo. (Fig. 38, 39, 40)
The main area in the children's room is occupied by beds. As children grow older, there is a shortage of free space in the room. A DIY bunk bed will help solve this problem. There are many design models that are selected based on the age of the children, the size of the room and personal preferences. Learn more about the types of bunk beds and their options self-made can be found in this article.
A bunk bed will help solve the problem of lack of free space in the room.
When designing a bunk bed made of wood or metal Special attention attention should be paid to the strength and stability of the structure. Here it is necessary not only to create comfortable sleeping places, but also to properly organize the stairs to climb to the second floor. On initial stage design requires thinking about where the staircase will be located. Next, the sleeping places are calculated and the distance between the tiers is calculated. These values are determined in such a way as to guarantee convenient operation of the structure in the future.
The distance from the lower tier to the floor level is selected based on a calculation that allows for comfortable seating for an adult. The niche that will be formed under the lower tier can be filled with drawers for linen or other things. The height distance between the beds should allow an adult to sit comfortably. This requirement is met not only for the convenience of parents, but also for the safety of the child sleeping on the lower tier, who should not hit his head on the upper bed when jumping up.
The top tier should not be placed too high. This will be dangerous for a sleeping child. He will also feel uncomfortable because the room above will be too warm for him to feel very stuffy.
The optimal dimensions of a sleeping place are considered to be the following: 160x70 cm and 180x80 cm. The recommended height of the structure is 160-180 cm. The height of the sides of the second tier should be at least 35 cm, which depends on the thickness of the mattress. The most acceptable dimensions for a staircase are width 39 cm, height 150 cm, distance between steps 25 cm.
The option of a 2-story bed is selected depending on the purpose, age of the children and their personal preferences. A younger child usually sleeps on the bottom bunk, while his older brother or sister occupies the top bunk. The two-tier design can also be used for one child. In this case, the sleeping area is located at the top. Underneath there is space for games, activities, or organizing convenient system storage
There are the following types of two-level beds:
A traditional DIY wooden bunk bed is the simplest design that can be made by any craftsman with minimal woodworking skills. For this model you will need a small amount of component materials. This design can be prefabricated or solid. In the first case, the upper berth, when installed on the floor, turns into a regular bed.
The second type of bunk bed is represented by a design with a folding sofa in its lower part. This is a very convenient and unusual model that allows you to organize a comfortable seating area and a place for receiving guests, which is done with the help of soft backrest. In this case, you will not need to purchase additional chairs for the room.
Helpful advice! Same-sex children can sleep on the pull-out sofa, and older children can sleep on the top floor.
An attic bed is convenient for a small room. The design consists of a sleeping area, which is located on the upper tier, and a work area located under it. A pull-out desk, bedside tables and cabinets can be provided here. You can also leave the lower space free by arranging a play area there.
For a large family with four or more children, you can organize a two-tier set consisting of two or more identical sections. Despite the fact that such a design will require significantly more material, the sleeping places can be carefully placed along one of the walls of the room, thereby saving free space.
The design with a retractable tier can be presented in several versions. In a do-it-yourself extendable bunk bed made of chipboard, the tiers are securely fastened together. In such a transforming bed, the lower tier with a sleeping place extends forward, to the right or to the left. This design is made with a height of 60-80 cm. The product can be a traditional two-level model with a ladder, in which another berth is pulled out under the lower bed.
The roll-out model has separate sleeping places. The lower tier is not attached to the upper one, so it can be rolled out and installed anywhere in the room. The result is two separate beds.
The most functional is the option, which are located under the lower tier. This model is successfully implemented in roll-out designs. An interesting variation is a sliding double bed, in which the sleeping place is hidden in a niche during the day, and in the evening it is pulled out for further use.
There is the most compact option, when there are two pull-out berths under the upper bed. When unfolded, this design resembles steps. Similar model will significantly save useful space, which can be used for games during the day. In addition, the cost of this triple bed will be much lower than the total amount spent on the purchase of individual stationary options.
Helpful advice! For the lower tier, it is recommended to purchase a thick mattress to fully insulate the sleeping area.
The model with a podium from which the beds extend out looks original and unusual. The podium can become a specific area of the room where you can organize a place for games or study. It is recommended to place cabinets for toys, linen and other things at the base. However, it is advisable to install such a design in rooms with high ceilings.
Another newfangled option is a grow-out bed, in which the sleeping places can be transformed, increasing in length. This feature of the model is used as the child grows older.
To make a bed, you can use natural wood, metal or wood-containing materials. The most durable of all options is metal. To make a bed, straight-seam thin-walled pipes, round bars or wire made of brass, iron, galvanized metal or carbon steel can be used.
Finished products have an aesthetic appearance and can withstand heavy weight. The disadvantages of the material include labor-intensive process manufacturing, requiring application welding machine, And high cost designs.
Solid wood is a difficult and expensive material to process. When working with it, you must have good skills in working with wood so as not to damage the products. However, the result is a solid wood bunk bed that is strong, reliable, durable and presentable.
Planed or edged boards are often used for the manufacture of structures, since this is the most economical and easiest to implement option. If designed correctly, such a structure can even support an adult.
Important! To create a strong and stable structure, it is important to purchase a well-dried board that will not subsequently deform.
An affordable option is MDF. Bunk beds from of this material They turn out beautiful and durable. However, an MDF product may break under heavy loads. This material is advisable to use for beds intended for small children, and you can also make backrests, drawers, shelves or decorative panels from it. For the same purposes, laminated chipboard is suitable, which is also not very large. bearing capacity.
Important! If laminated chipboard is used to create a bed frame or sleeping place, a sufficient number of supporting elements should be provided.
Furniture board is a durable, strong and reliable material. It is represented by a slab that is glued together from different blocks of natural wood. This perfect material for the manufacture of bunk beds, since it has a high load-bearing capacity. When working with a slab, it should be taken into account that it has internal tension.
When making a two-story bed, due attention should be paid to the sides and stairs. These elements are designed to ensure the necessary safety of the child. There are several options for stairs, which is shown in the photo of do-it-yourself bunk beds. A flat vertical structure is mounted on one side of the facade. At the same time, it acts as a protective side for the lower tier. This staircase does not have railings and is therefore unsafe for a small child. More suitable for children 5-6 years old.
A flat inclined or curved forward structure can be installed on the side of the bed or in front of its front wall. The element is equipped with safety railings and has flat steps that are comfortable and safe for the child. This option can be used for children of any age.
A staircase with steps made from drawers is multifunctional and easy to use. This design is most often used for, since it requires significant space. Its recommended length is at least 2.4 m.
The sides of the bed provide protection for the child from falling while sleeping. Their height can be 30-60 cm. The sides are made in the form of a lattice or a solid canvas.
When creating a design, accuracy and precision in work are required. Therefore, at the initial stage of manufacturing the product, it is necessary to make a detailed drawing of a bunk bed, which indicates its dimensions and components. For each individual unit, an individual diagram must be made with the exact dimensions of all its components marked. The general drawing shows the assembly diagram of a bunk bed and how to connect all its parts.
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Photos and features of the device. What materials are used. How to choose the right one. Sofa convertible into a bunk bed.
The basis for design calculations is taken. The size of the bed must strictly correspond to its dimensions. A perimeter allowance of 1 cm is allowed. The width of the backs of the structure must correspond to the width of the couch, taking into account the thickness of the longitudinal slats and the size of the overhang. This calculation is carried out for wooden structures. As for metal products, the double thickness of the pipe is added to the width of the bed, taking into account an allowance of 1 cm. The size of the longitudinal slats corresponds to the length of the mattress with an allowance of 1 cm.
Once the model has been determined, the manufacturing material has been selected and all the necessary diagrams and drawings of a bunk bed have been created with your own hands, you should begin manufacturing the component elements. To perform the work, you need to prepare tools.
If it is made of metal, you will need:
To create solid wood bunk beds you will need;
To make a metal bunk bed with your own hands you will need metallic profile 50x25 for creating frames for sleeping places, a profile with a section of 20x25 for making a slatted base for a mattress and metal elements with a section of 40x40 mm for the side racks. You will also need to purchase metal screws, screws, primer and paint for metal surfaces.
Based on the drawing of a children's bunk bed, you cut all the blanks to a given length with your own hands. Assembly of the structure begins with the creation of backrests in the amount of 4 pieces. The structural elements must be laid out on a horizontal surface and connected with a welding seam. After each step, it is recommended to check the angle, which should be 90 degrees.
Using a grinder from profile pipe 20x25 mm slats are cut for the mattress. Next, the base is assembled. On long frame parts, 12 metal strips are welded at equal distances from each other. Then it is necessary to connect the vertical posts in pairs, to which the backs of the lower and upper tiers are attached by welding. The result is two designs.
The frame for the mattress of the lower tier is welded to the first at a distance of 35 cm from the floor, and for the upper floor - at a distance of 95 cm from the lower level. All actions are carried out according to the drawing of a children's bed with your own hands.
In the places where the frames of the second rack are attached, it is necessary to weld two sections of a profile measuring 20x20 mm. They should be installed with some clearance, since the elements must fit tightly into the inner part of the profile measuring 50x25 mm. This technique will allow the structure to be transported in the future without losing the strength and rigidity of the connections.
The final stage is the manufacture of a staircase 36 cm wide. Using a grinder, all the component elements are cut from a profile pipe and welded together. The structure is attached to the bed using self-tapping screws.
After the bunk bed is assembled, all seams are sanded, the surface is cleaned of dust and the base is primed with a special compound. After it has completely dried, metal paint is applied to the structure in two layers.
A DIY bunk bed made of wood is a comfortable classic model that is very popular. To make it, you need to purchase high-quality, straight, well-dried wooden blocks, from which parts of the required sizes are cut. The most commonly used boards are pine. Their number is determined based on a detailed drawing of a do-it-yourself wooden bunk bed.
Helpful advice! Consumables should be purchased in reserve so as not to use rejected sections of the board.
For the traditional model, based on the presented drawing of a wooden bunk bed, it is necessary to make the following parts:
How to make a bunk bed? The manufacturing process can begin with the creation supporting structures in the form of a headboard and footboard. These elements are almost identical. The difference lies in the design of the upper part of one of the backs, taking into account the location of the fence railings on it. In this case, three blocks are made on the outer cover of the vertical post to secure the side protective enclosing element.
The footboard and headboard of a children's bunk bed are made by hand from pre-cut posts and crossbars. The supports are made of timber and parts that will cover the holes for fastening the structural elements and form a groove for further laying the side frame boards into it.
Based on the drawing of a bunk bed with the dimensions of all constituent elements, the production of side parts (kings) in the amount of 4 pieces is carried out. These parts will subsequently hold the slats of the structure. A longitudinal strip is attached to the inside, which is necessary to support the mattress, onto which bars are mounted at an equidistant distance from each other. Transverse slats are installed in the formed grooves to support the mattress.
Next, the second tier berth and fencing elements are assembled. The location of the steps (three in number) is indicated on the stand. When installing the lower step, you must ensure that its fasteners do not get into the locations of the screws that hold the side wall of the lower floor.
Then the side structural elements are connected to the drawers, as shown in the do-it-yourself bunk bed drawing. They must be installed in the gaps that have formed between the linings. Each side is screwed using four self-tapping screws.
After the frame is assembled, they begin to attach the handrail, ladder, steps and crossbar for the fence. All elements must be connected to each other. Then, using self-tapping screws, the structure is fixed to the bed posts. The lamellas are laid between the bars on the side frame boards on the solid assembled structure.
Traditionally, the staircase is made of three steps. Depending on its height, their number can be increased. In this case, it is not at all necessary to install only vertical design. The staircase can be inclined and located at any angle.
It is very easy to assemble. Steps are attached to a base consisting of two bars. In this case, the lower element is additionally connected to the stand of one of the backrests. Others are located one above the other. The steps can be fixed externally using a metal corner or installed in a recess. Any fastening element must be as closed as possible.
If necessary, a finished bunk bed for children can be sanded with your own hands to eliminate any roughness on its surface. Next, it is treated with a special impregnation and covered with stain or varnish.
Helpful advice! For reliability and to prevent the structure from tipping over, it is recommended to mount it on the wall.
There are many types of loft beds. For self-production, you can choose a model from the proposed options posted on websites that display detailed drawings of do-it-yourself bunk beds for children.
To create a classic loft bed (dimensions 250x115 cm) with one sleeping place, a ladder and an open play area, boards of different sections will be used. The assembly of a bunk bed begins with the manufacture of its left end side. To do this, cross beams measuring 5x10x95 cm are connected to racks of the same section with a length of 1650 mm, they are mounted in pre-prepared holes and fixed with glue and self-tapping screws. A ladder will be installed on this side.
In the same way, the installation of the right side is organized, which at the same time will become a protective fence. The next step is gluing the bars (5x5x190 cm) with dividing parts to the drawers measuring 5x15x190 cm, which are fastened with self-tapping screws.
Next, the end elements are connected with drawers and wooden elements for a fence measuring 5x10x190 cm. All boards are fastened with bolts. The result is a sleeping place measuring 1.0 x 1.9 m. It is necessary to lay lamellas on the timber. Bolted connections For reliability, you can fix it with wood glue.
The next step is to assemble a support frame-rack for the platform from boards measuring 5x10x50 cm and 5x10x95 cm. The frame must be attached to the frame landing using boards with parameters 5x10x50 cm and 5x10x10.5 cm.
The entire system is then mounted to the main frame using iron corners, which are screwed onto the inside of the structure. The area is covered with boards (5x10x65 cm), which are immediately connected with glue and then fixed with self-tapping screws.
Important! The heads of the screws should go several millimeters into the wood, and the resulting recesses are sealed with sawdust mixed with glue.
Next, the staircase is installed. To two side boards (5x15x100 cm), the ends of which are cut at an angle of 90 degrees, bars measuring 2.5x5x20 cm are attached in parallel. They should be located opposite each other on the side crossbars. Then wooden steps measuring 5x10x45 cm are mounted on them. Finished design is attached using metal corners to the podium, after which the strength of the stairs and bed is checked.
Finally, all recesses are sealed and the surface is sanded. All elements are coated with a primer, after which varnish or paint is applied to them.
To create a pull-out bunk bed, you can use laminated chipboard. The design made from this material is easy to manufacture and does not require special skills and experience from the craftsman. The first step is to create or select a ready-made drawing of a children's bunk bed with the dimensions of all elements.
For the manufacture of the main structural parts, laminated chipboard sheets with a thickness of 19 mm are used. For the lid and lower side of the podium, you can use a furniture panel 22 mm thick. All elements are made on the basis of detailed drawings of a children's bunk bed with your own hands. The photos clearly show every detail of the design of the appropriate dimensions. The components are fastened using screws, bolts and angles.
To create the top tier, you need two sheets of chipboard for the headboard and footboard, and you will also need two thin strips for the side walls. The retractable structure is made of parts of the same height. The length of this part should be 10 cm less than this value of the upper level.
The lower tier is equipped with wheels, thanks to which the bed can be moved freely if necessary. Used for lathing wooden boards 10 cm thick. For beds 1.7-2 mm long, there should be at least 7 such strips.
When there is limited free space in the room, and you need to arrange two or more sleeping places, a bunk bed comes to the rescue. Today there are many design options that are selected based on the stated requirements. Having completed a detailed drawing of a children's bunk bed, you can independently assemble the chosen model, which will fit perfectly into the interior and save space.
The question of how to make a bunk bed with your own hands often appears on the “agenda” due to the fact that standard apartments are not distinguished by impressive areas and spaciousness. Even if the children in the family are allocated a completely separate room, you should not clutter it with unnecessary furniture - it is better to leave more free space for games and sports activities.
Therefore, for a family in which two or more children are growing up, a bunk bed design becomes a real find. And it’s not at all necessary to rummage through online catalogs or run around furniture stores- it’s quite possible to make one on your own.
Nowadays, in the assortment of stores you can find many models of beds with two tiers, and on their basis it is quite possible to create your own version of a sleeping place with dimensions and a comfortable staircase suitable for specific conditions and specific location. In addition to traditional bunk structures, you can also make a loft bed, which will free up useful space in the room.
If we consider several various options, it will be easier to choose the most suitable design for your apartment.
This type of bunk bed is traditional and has the simplest design possible. It is quite accessible for self-production and will require a minimum amount of materials.
This model is perfect for a children's room and will significantly save useful space in it, which can be used to arrange a workplace or play area. In addition, the structure can serve as a good platform for intricate children's games, so it should be quite stable, and in some cases it is recommended to firmly fix it to the wall.
The big advantage of this model is the natural wood from which it is made, which is very important for a child’s room. Drawings and a detailed description of the manufacture of this bed model will be discussed below.
A bed with on its first tier folding sofa, will save even more free space in the room than a conventional two-tier design. If there is an ordinary bed on the ground floor, it will be uncomfortable to just sit and watch TV, since there is no comfortable backrest. Therefore, in addition to the above traditional version a bunk bed in a children's room will still have to look for a place for a sofa or two armchairs, which, of course, will take up enough large area. Well, if a sofa is built into a two-tier complex, it will serve as a sleeping place at night, and during the daytime it will create a comfortable corner for relaxing while sitting or lying down. In addition, when folded, this piece of furniture will not take up a single extra centimeter of space, and when unfolded, it will become a spacious, full-fledged bed.
Transformable bed
To make such a complex yourself, you will have to buy or use an existing one and attach the rest of the structure to it, which, by the way, will be stable and reliable due to the massiveness of the lower tier.
This version of a bunk bed, designed for three sleeping places and additionally equipped with drawers and shelves, will take up slightly more space than a regular traditional bed with two tiers. However, in a children's room you still cannot do without various cabinets and drawers for toys and educational supplies, for which an attached structure can be used, which at the same time serves as a reliable, stable one leading to the second tier.
And in this version there are even three sleeping places and a lot of useful built-in lockers The sleeping places themselves will take up an area that would accommodate one regular bed. As you can see in the illustration, the third berth is a retractable structure, which is hidden under the mattress of the first tier during the day.
Thus, three children will be provided not only with sleeping places, but also with their own drawers and shelves, and in addition - an excellent play complex into which such a two-tier structure can turn.
A bed with a double bed on the first tier can be used in one-room apartment, or in a two-room apartment, where it was decided to allocate one of the living spaces as a living room with a workplace. So, the first floor of the bed is reserved for an adult bedroom, and the second is intended for a child.
This version of the trapezoidal design will take up the area of the room, which is usually reserved for an unfolded sofa. To make it, you will need few materials, but due to the widely spaced legs and the large massiveness of the lower tier, the bed will be stable and durable.
A bunk structure consisting of four beds is an excellent choice for a family with four or more children. This option is more difficult to make, and it will require a lot of material, but the room will become spacious, and the bed will look neat along one of the walls.
The design can be modified and even increased to six sleeping places if it is installed the length of the room and another two-tier section is added, or two pull-out mattresses are installed under the lower tier.
The loft bed is also used for rational use usable space in the room and a kind of “camouflage” of the sleeping place. This option is suitable not only for small children - it is often chosen for adults, especially if the apartment consists of one room.
This design allows one area of the room to be used for dual purposes - on the second tier there is a wide and comfortable bed, and the lower platform of the first tier is a fairly spacious office, which provides everything for comfortable work.
An important condition for arranging such a structure is its strength, especially if the sleeping place is intended for two people. Typically, such a loft bed is additionally securely fixed to the wall.
The children's version of the loft bed is a whole complex that includes a table and a wardrobe in which not only toys, but also items of clothing can be stored. With some justification, such a complex can even be called a small room, which will become a favorite place for a child, since most children always try to create their own “secret” corner, building huts and houses from chairs and blankets.
By making this version of a bed with all the elements necessary for play and study, you can solve several problems at once and save on buying pieces of furniture for a child for many years, since the complex is suitable for both a five-year-old child and a fifteen-year-old teenager. Moreover, when starting to draw up a drawing, it is quite possible to include already existing cabinets and tables in it, which are perfect for the first tier of the structure.
Upon completion of the work, all elements of the loft bed are united in a common color that will be in harmony with the design of the entire children's room.
Further in the publication we will consider the manufacture and assembly of two different models of bunk beds - the “classic” type and the loft bed. However, many structural elements and their assembly principles are exactly the same, and in order not to repeat ourselves, first of all these nuances will be shown separately, using the example of an ordinary wooden bed. If these principles are mastered, then creating a second tier will no longer be difficult, of course, taking into account certain features.
In order for the product to turn out neat, it is necessary to perfectly accurately manufacture and process all the details. The instruction table below shows illustrations in which the master uses professional tools - they greatly speed up and simplify the work. However, the same operations can be carried out with an ordinary tool, which is available in almost any good, “handy” owner. Of course, you will have to put in a little more effort, and manufacturing will take longer, but it is still possible.
| Illustration | |
|---|---|
 | So, all boards must be planed, their surfaces must be perfectly leveled and adjusted to the required size. This illustration shows the manufacture of the drawer - the side panel of the supporting structure of the bed. |
 | To ensure that the transverse boards on which the mattress will be laid have reliable and strong supports, well-processed bars are attached to the drawers. |
 | Carpenter's glue is applied to the drawer panel along the gluing line of the timber. Then the glued element is placed on it. The timber is pressed well and tightened with clamps in several places. After the glue has dried, the parts are fastened with self-tapping screws through countersunk holes. |
 | A very important point is the manufacture of the side legs, since they bear a high load. In the future, the side and end panels of the bed will be attached to these elements. Therefore, they are usually assembled from two layers, one of which is the main one, and consists of a whole timber. The second layer is assembled from individual elements located at a certain distance from each other. |
 | This distance depends on the width of the drawer, the edge of which will be installed in the resulting groove. Separate pieces of timber are first glued along the markings onto a solid part, and then countersunk holes are drilled into them for self-tapping screws. |
 | Another point that causes difficulties is the creation of patterned forms on some parts, for example, when making semicircular backs of the headboard and footboard. In order to avoid mistakes and not draw unnecessary rough lines on the actual wooden part, it is recommended to make a paper template from which the form is transferred to the board with neat dashed outlines. |
 | Then, a flexible plastic strip is taken, which can be bent along the bend of the cut, and the finishing curved boundary of the cut is drawn along it. |
 | Next, the board is cut along the marked line using an electric jigsaw. This photo shows a professional stationary machine, but it is quite possible to use a hand tool. |
 | After this, the cut line is processed with a manual or stationary router, which will round the edges and rid them of protruding wooden fibers. In the same way, all the boards necessary to create the elements for the headboard and footboard are cut and processed. |
 | When all the parts necessary for assembling the bed have been made, you should try them on and make the necessary markings. |
 | Next, connecting dowels are manufactured or purchased ready-made. They can be round or flat, as shown in this illustration. |
 | The finished dowels are laid out on the parts to be connected. At the same time, it will be possible to visually estimate how many of them will be needed. |
 | In the places where holes will be drilled for installing dowels, with a simple pencil marks are made. It is easier to drill holes for round dowels by choosing a drill of the right size. If flat dowels are used for connections, then several holes are drilled nearby with a drill, which are then combined with a chisel or cutter. |
 | The dowels are inserted into the holes without glue for now, since it is first necessary to pre-assemble the structure to ensure that there are no distortions. |
 | After this, the bed posts are put on the free ends of the dowels. To completely sag the parts during assembly, a rubber or wooden hammer (mallet) can be used. |
 | Having made the connections of the parts of one of the sides of the backrest, proceed to mounting the second rack. |
 | Having collected individual elements beds, it is necessary to pre-assemble the entire structure of the “ground floor” to make sure that all the parts fit together exactly. |
 | Base boards are laid on the bed frame - this process is carried out to determine optimal distance between them. |
 | When the size of the gaps between the boards is determined, fragments of the block are cut along it and glued between the boards onto the support beam on which the base boards are laid. These elements will allow the boards to be in a given position without shifting, so they are simply laid without securing the edges with screws. |
 | After all the preliminary operations have been carried out and any necessary adjustments have been made, the entire structure is disassembled and reassembled, but “tightly”, that is, using glue. |
 | The illustration clearly shows how the bed posts are connected to the headboard panels using dowels coated with glue. |
 | The glued bed frame must be tightened with clamps until it dries completely, and then it is additionally fastened with self-tapping screws through countersunk holes. |
 | The illustration clearly shows the pieces of timber attached to the longitudinal support shelf of the drawer - between them the base boards under the mattress will subsequently be laid. |
 | The final connection of the drawer and the backs of the headboard and footboard is made with self-tapping screws. |
 | This illustration shows what cut needs to be made on the bottom of the baseboard leg so that the bed can be installed flush against the wall. |
So, having made all the parts that are necessary according to the specific drawing of the selected model, you can proceed to the independent creation of this original piece of furniture, using the shown principles of assembling the main parts and assemblies of wood.
This option for a bunk bed can be called the simplest of all existing ones, which is why it is worth considering.
Transformable bed Mobi
This figure shows the main design details in numbers.
Detailing of a “classic” type bunk bed This table shows the dimensions and number of parts, and this data should be enough even for a novice craftsman to make them, based on the instructions presented above, and then assemble a bunk bed from them.
| № | the name of detail | Part size, mm | Quantity, pcs. |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1. | Vertical racks. | 38x76x1730 | 4 |
| 2. | External covers for vertical posts. | 38 × 76 × 1730 | 4 |
| 3. | 38 x 140 x 2030 | 4 | |
| 4. | Longitudinal strips for laying frame boards, fixed to the drawers from the inside (not visible in the figure). | 32x44x1850 | 4 |
| 5. | Headboard/footboard top panels | 20 × 140 × 914 | 4 |
| 6. | Headboard/footboard center slats | 20 × 90 × 914 | 4 |
| 7. | Stair railing | 20 × 90 × 1510 | 1 |
| 8. | Stair steps | 20x64x482 | 3 |
| 9. | Fence strips - cut to the required size during installation | 20×90×1800 | 2 |
| 10. | Transverse mattress support slats (not visible in the picture), cut in place. | 20 ×76 ×1000 | 24 |
| 11. | 20 × 140 × 914 | 4 |
Below is an illustrated instruction table that shows mutual arrangement and connecting all the parts of the bunk bed. Based on the diagrams and text accompanying them, it will not be difficult to carry out independent installation.
(In some illustrations, dimensions are given in inches. Converting to millimeters is easy: 1 inch = 25.4 mm.)
| Illustration | Brief description of the operation performed |
|---|---|
 | This is the side supporting part of the bed - the drawer, designed to hold the transverse slats. There are 4 such panels made, they form the length of the upper and lower boxes of the bed. |
 | This figure shows the principle of assembling the headboard and footboard, which consist of posts and crossbars. In turn, the racks are made up of solid timber and separate sections that cover the holes in the joints of the parts and form a groove for installing the frame into it. |
 | Headboard and footboard assembly diagram with detailed details and dimensions. Here you need to pay attention to the fact that in the upper part of the back of the headboard, three separate pads are attached to the solid beam of the post, since the parts of the fence will be attached between them. For the back of the footboard, instead of three overlays, one whole one is fixed in its upper part. |
 | Assembled headboard and footboard parts. Based on the dimensions given in the figure, it will be easy to mark and assemble these bed elements. |
 | This drawing shows the details of the stairs and the railing of the upper berth. The staircase post indicates the location of the three steps. When attaching the lower step to the footboard post, you need to make sure that the fastening screws of the step do not rest against the frame fastening screws. |
 | Now, for the comfort of further work, you need to fasten the headboard and footboard with the lower and upper drawers. To do this, they are installed in the gaps left between the linings, and each of their sides is secured with four self-tapping screws. |
 | When the structure is firmly on the floor, you can begin installing the staircase handrail, its steps, and the railing bars. The elements are fastened to each other, as well as to the headboard and footboard posts, with self-tapping screws. Once all the items have been collected in single design, you can lay transverse boards between the sections of bars fixed to the frames. |
 | The last step will be to finalize the joints so that there is no burr left on them. Then all that remains is to clean the structure from dust, install it in in the right place, put mattresses on the sleeping places - and the bed is ready for use. |
I would like to add that it would be a good idea to secure the assembled structure to the wall, since children usually use it not only as a sleeping place, but also as a sports complex. To avoid unpleasant moments, it is better to ensure in advance that the structure is stable and safe.
Another bed option that will help save space in small apartment, even with only one room. As already mentioned, the space occupied by such a bed can be usefully used for various needs.
Loft bed
To make this loft bed model you will need the following materials:
The following parts must be manufactured and processed from purchased lumber:
| the name of detail | Part size, mm | Quantity, pcs. |
|---|---|---|
| Vertical racks. | 50×100×1650 | 4 |
| End boards of supporting frame | 50 × 150 × 950 | 2 |
| Cross boards at the ends of the bed | 50 × 100 × 950 | 4 |
| Fence boards | 50 × 100 × 1900 | 4 |
| Load-bearing side boards of the frame (drawbars). | 50 × 150 × 1900 | 2 |
| Longitudinal bars attached to the drawers from the inside for laying lamellas (not visible in the figure). | 50 × 50 × 1900 | 2 |
| Bearing bars for steps, the edges of which are cut parallel at an angle of 45 degrees. It is recommended to round the edges of the boards. | 25 × 50 × 200 | 6 |
| Boards for steps | 50 × 100 × 450 | 6 |
| Part of a vertical post located near the stairs. | 50 × 100 × 1050 | 1 |
| The side boards of the stairs (both ends are sawed at an angle of 45 degrees, the top edge on one side, the bottom edge on both sides of the board) see below. | 50 × 150 × 1000 | 2 |
| Boards for covering the staircase platform | 50 × 100 × 550 | 12 |
| Platform end boards | 50 × 100 × 500 | 2 |
| Boards for assembly retaining structure under the platform (vertical) | 50 × 100 × 950 | 2 |
| Boards for assembling a retaining structure for the platform (horizontal) | 50 × 100 × 800 | 2 |
| Cross boards-lamellas for supporting the mattress (not visible in the picture). | 120×25×1000 | 13 |
The diagram below gives a complete idea of what the finished bed will look like. In addition, it is possible to determine your own dimensions of the structure, since the bed may be larger or smaller than the option shown in the drawing, depending on the height and age of the child, as well as the size of the room.
Such a design can easily be modified into a more compact version; a side platform is not installed, but a staircase is installed instead, which will take up much less space.
The instruction table below will show the order of work and the dimensions that must be observed during assembly.
| Illustration | Brief description of the operation performed |
|---|---|
 | Based on the presented drawing, the left end part of the structure is assembled from prepared boards. The crossbars are also connected to the posts using dowels, which are placed in the drilled holes using wood glue, and then additionally fixed with self-tapping screws - their caps must be deepened into the wood by 2÷3 mm. A platform with stairs will be attached to this side. |
 | Next, the right end side of the structure is assembled in the same way. It differs significantly from the previous one, since it serves as one of the sides of the fence. |
 | The next step is to glue onto the supporting boards of the frame (tsars) and then screw them with self-tapping screws into the bars with delimiting board sections 30 mm long, between which the transverse slats will be laid under the mattress. Next, the end parts of the structure are connected with drawers and enclosing boards. All parts are assembled using bolts or dowels and screws. If dowels are used, they must be placed on glue. As a result, the internal area of the bed should be 1000x1900 mm in size. After this, lamella boards are laid on the protruding beam - the basis of the berth. |
 | The next step is to assemble the support frame-stand for the podium platform. It must be durable, since it will bear quite a large load. |
 | The next operation is to install the platform frame to the frame, and the entire structure is attached to the bed. To fasten all the elements of the podium, it is recommended to use metal corners that are screwed onto the inside of the frame. Here you need to take into account that the structure must be strong enough to support the weight of an adult. |
 | Next, the podium area is covered with prepared boards. It is best to place them on glue, and then screw them in with self-tapping screws, recessing their caps into the wood by 3-4 mm, and seal the remaining recesses with a mixture of sawdust and glue. All edges of the boards must be carefully processed until smooth, so that the possibility of causing one or another injury is eliminated. |
 | The next step is making the stairs, and it can be called the most difficult of the entire process of building a bed. The boards must not only be perfectly processed, but also their edges must be cut at an angle of 45 degrees, but at the same time the top is cut on one side, and the bottom on both sides. To make it easier to mark the places where the bars are secured under the steps, one board can be placed on the podium in a position in which the staircase will be attached to it. The steps should be parallel to the floor - this can be marked using a regular building level. Having marked one of the boards, mark the second one in exactly the same way, with complete symmetry. The marking points will set the direction for drawing lines along which uncut bars are screwed to the boards. Their edges can be trimmed after fastening - exactly at the level of the end part of the board. |
 | Next, step boards are laid and secured onto the fixed bars. To make it easier to work, first fix one board at the top and bottom - this will give the structure the necessary rigidity. After this it will be easy to screw on the remaining steps. All fasteners must be recessed into the wood, and the holes must be sealed with a mixture of glue and sawdust. The finished staircase must be securely secured to the podium and the structure can then be carefully tested. After this, all holes, sealed with putty made from glue and sawdust, are sanded with sandpaper. The next step is all assembled structure, optionally, painted or coated with water-based varnish. To make it easy to apply varnish or paint on surfaces, without being strongly absorbed into the wood, it is advisable to first coat all parts with a wood primer, which will create a film, filling the pores of the material. |
This publication presented the simplest designs of bunk beds that can be made even by a beginner. If you don't have everyone at hand necessary tools for wood processing, or there is not enough confidence that the process of precise processing of workpieces will go flawlessly, you can entrust this work to professionals by contacting a carpentry workshop, providing the purchased material and drawings with dimensions. The master will make all the parts, and all that remains is to independently assemble the structure at the place of its installation.
And at the end of the publication, another easy-to-make version of a children's bunk bed is shown in the attached video:
