Unfortunately, upon acceptance hot bath We always don't have enough time. The rhythm of life is so great that it is not possible to devote an hour of time to the bathroom almost every day. Think about how many times over the last six months have you enjoyed hot foam? Probably once or at most twice.
And the rest of the time you just climb into the bathtub under an impromptu shower and vary between the narrow and smooth walls of the container. So, wouldn’t it be better to save yourself from such torment and install a shower?
Modern shower cabin
Today, plumbing manufacturers offer a lot of options both in price and design. You can purchase simple shower cabins consisting of a tray, doors, and the walls are the walls of the bathroom.
Or more complex designs– shower boxes. They represent a limited and completely isolated space, consisting of a pallet of various sizes, doors, walls or additional functions such as hydromassage or .
However, not all of us can afford such large-scale showers, both in size and price. Therefore, our craftsmen suggest you make a tray for a simple shower stall yourself.
The question is especially relevant for little ones Khrushchev's apartments, where the bathroom does not allow you to place not only a bathtub, even just an acrylic tray.
Shower box
Of course, you can go the simple route and bury the finished pallet in the floor during the bathroom renovation. However, remember, an enamel tray will slide, but an acrylic one is easily scratched, may become fragile and may lose its color over time.
Buying a tray made of ceramics or marble will not justify itself, because we want to save money, but this cannot be achieved with such materials.
Steel pallets will also not be a joy for you: today they are made of thin steel, it makes noise, and the enamel on the surface quickly cracks.
Therefore more practical solution There will be a pallet made of brick and finished with tiles.
Advantages of a do-it-yourself pallet:
As you can see, making a pallet yourself is your chance to show off your plumbing and design skills. Not to mention that this is a chance to save money and maintain the family budget.
To properly direct your strength, you must imagine what you have to do.
So, the design of a homemade pallet consists of a concrete base (or brick), trimmed with tiles, and there is an outer wall to prevent water from getting onto the bathroom floor.
There must be a drain inside the structure to drain water into the sewer.
The concrete/brick base must be treated with a cement-based waterproofing material and only then can you begin tiling.
During work you will need:
Basically these are all the materials that should be useful during work.
Handmade tile shower tray.
To cover the shower tray you will need the following materials:
All of the above tools will be needed at the last stage of finishing the pallet.
To ultimately make a high-quality, reliable, attractive and, most importantly, durable pallet, follow our instructions.
Step No. 1: preparing the surface for the pallet
The first step should be performed at the earliest stage of a bathroom renovation. Try to do it before finishing the walls and floor.
So, clean the floor, sweep it. Treat the area where the pallet will be, that is, the floor and walls, with waterproofing material. Experts recommend using bitumen mastic.
Carefully treat all joints shower tray with walls and floor.
Protects surfaces from mold and dampness. At the stage after drying waterproofing material Usually a floor heating system is installed.
Waterproofing will protect surfaces from mold and dampness.
Then lay greenhouse film on the treated area - this item is optional.
Step #2: laying the base
When the waterproofing layer is completely dry, begin to form the outline of the future pallet. Classic size for pallet: 90x90 cm.
To do this, use sand-lime or regular brick. Experts recommend purchasing red brick, as it is resistant to moisture.
For laying bricks, use cement mortar or any other purchased in a store. Don't forget to place it on the base metal mesh to strengthen the structure.
When installing the lower part of the pan, be careful: the water outlet should be at a 30-degree angle, and not at 900.
Now leave the tray for three to four days.
Step #3: second part of pallet laying
After several days have passed, cover the pallet with waterproofing material again (bitumen mastic). This way, you will increase the moisture resistance of the future structure.
Make the sides of the pallet a little higher by about one brick. Then make a cement screed both inside and outside the structure. Make the screed based on cement and sand with admixtures of crushed stone.
Making a screed
The bottom of the pan should be made with a slope of 1–1.5 cm towards the drain hole. Use a spatula and trowel to level the surface.
To simplify the work, use plaster beacons, but do not forget to remove them later.
When cement strainer dry, treat the entire surface of the pallet, both inside and outside waterproofing mixture. So, moisture will not get into the layers of the screed and will not destroy the brick.
Step No. 4: leveling the structure
When the surface of the tray is completely dry, apply a leveling mixture to it. Don’t forget to make a smooth and easy depression around it so that the water flows freely into the drain.
Almost the last preparation of the pallet: when the leveling layer is dry, apply the waterproofing material again. Don't neglect it so much frequent use protective layer. This way, you protect yourself and your neighbors below, who probably won’t have yellow spots on the ceiling.
Step #5: finishing the outside of the pallet
Prepare adhesive composition according to the instructions indicated on the packaging. Be careful: you may have to prepare the glue several times. There are mixtures that quickly deteriorate if not used within a few hours.
You need to lay the tiles from the far corner, which is visible when entering the bathroom. Be sure to check with your consultant or read on the glue packaging what exactly you need to apply the adhesive composition to: on the surface or on the tile.
Check every tile building level. To ensure proper installation, tap the tiles with a rubber hammer.
When laying each subsequent tile, do not forget about forming the seams using crosses.
Step No. 6: final finishing of the pallet using grouting
After full installation tiles on a pallet, all seams must be protected. For this you will need grout and a rubber spatula. Choose a mixture that is not only waterproof, but also antibacterial.
Fill all the seams with a special waterproof mixture, remove the remainder with a clean cloth. To ensure that the seams are uniform and uniform, go over them with the reverse handle of a rubber spatula.
Step #7: finish
Wash the entire pallet with a wet cloth, thereby removing all remaining adhesive or grout from the cladding surface.
When the grout is completely dry, the tiles need to be washed again and wiped dry.
The shower tray is ready, you can use it in a few days.
Ready shower room.
Remember, you can use mosaic instead of tiles. Today it is sold in whole sheets, which are laid on an adhesive composition. In the same way, apply glue to the mosaic sheet with a spatula and apply it to the surface of the pallet.
After laying the mosaic, also seal the seams, only in this case, remove the remains immediately, because then it is almost impossible to remove them. After drying, also wash the lining and wipe dry.
All you have to do is remove the metal cover from the drain and install glass doors and taps. After three days, your shower is ready for use.
To make a pallet with your own hands you will need two weeks, no more. But at the same time, how much less money you will spend! Don't be afraid to experiment and you will succeed.
Before making a shower tray, you should waterproof the underlying surface. This is all the more difficult because the coatings can be different. This is not always the case concrete slab or screed, as in a new building. IN old apartment a pattern of tiles may already be laid on the bathroom floor. Then you stand and think: leaving it as it is means you’ll probably wet your neighbors; do it on top of ceramics... what composition? The base largely determines the degree of adhesion of building mixtures. And folding a shower tray with your own hands is not so difficult.
For construction you will need some bricks, cement, tile adhesive, and grout. And the cladding is done with mosaics or full-size ceramic tiles. Sometimes the solution is poured in the center, and this is where the process ends. Moreover, many create around the perimeter removable formwork made of wood required height, and the perimeter is also made of concrete. The point of this procedure is that it is possible to obtain a given strength grade, on which the water permeability of the base directly depends. For example, only heavy concrete is used for building foundations.
For waterproofing, mastics of various types and impregnations are used. The first name causes rejection among untrained users. According to the majority, mastic is something soft that is used to rub school parquet. So that it looks beautiful and the bug doesn’t eat it. Therefore, constructing a foundation on mastic is impossible.
Much depends on what the floor material in the house is. Is it concrete, brick, wood or metal. In each case, the types of waterproofing measures will be different. And a tile shower tray is not always appropriate.
This is a fundamentally wrong opinion - what was voiced above. There are different types of mastic, but construction mastic is specially made to withstand mechanical deformation. Most of these building mixtures are used for external waterproofing of building foundations. You can imagine the stress there in winter. And bitumen mastic must successfully withstand the vagaries of the weather. Let's look at an example to make it more clear. Slavyanka bitumen mastic is available for sale at a price of 1,500 rubles per 9 kg bucket:
What can we say? We would also be interested in the adhesion strength to acrylic polymers and paint. For the reasons that many will not want to tile the pallet, but will prefer to buy it ready-made. In this case, waterproofing of the foundation is carried out only in the area of the siphon and along the path of the sewer pipe.
Many people do not quite understand what tensile strength is. This parameter characterizes the ability of the coating to withstand mechanical pull-out loads. Surely the given values should be enough for a home shower tray, but you can do some calculations. Let's say the lowest adhesive strength is 0.4 MPa or 400 thousand Pa, which corresponds to 400 thousand newtons per square meter. The area of the average pallet ranges from 80x80 to 90x90 cm. Let's take the smallest of these parameters.
With a pallet side of 80x80 cm, its area is 0.64 square meters. That is, the peel strength of the entire surface will be 256,000 N or approximately 25.6 tons. We believe that it is not a fact that even an elephant will be able to roll our pallet on the bathroom floor if it is glued with such mastic. Thus, all concerns regarding the softness of the mastic are completely unfounded. Ahead of the readers' train of thought, we note that there are not only bitumen mixtures, but also cement ones. And their characteristics are no worse.
Penetrating waterproofing works on a completely different principle. The substance penetrates deep into the concrete, forming insoluble crystals with hardening products cement stone. This type of waterproofing is designed specifically for walls and floors. We stated above that Slavyanka mastic is not the most economical material for waterproofing walls. Please note that all characteristics are centered around mechanical strength, and only one of them concerns water pressure. This is due to the fact that the foundation of the building is affected by frost heaving, and underground sources are not very powerful.
With specialized compounds for pools and containers, everything is completely different. Calmatron manufacturers claim that a bathroom floor coated with their composition increases the water resistance rating by 2-4 units. For convenience, let’s convert this to MPa to compare with bitumen mastic. Each unit corresponds to 0.1 MPa, which is an order of magnitude (10 times) higher than the parameter given above. That is, treating concrete with Kalmatron gives an effect up to 40 times greater than for bitumen mastic. The hardening time of one layer ranges from 15 to 180 minutes.
What's the catch here? You need to check with the manufacturer for applicability. construction mixture. Judging by the description, it only works for concrete. And even more precisely - for cement. That is, you cannot strengthen brick and wood with it. It is necessary concrete base(the floor screed in the apartment meets this condition). All other things being equal, Kalmatron's consumption is lower (1.6 kg per square meter), and the operating temperature range is much wider. It remains to clarify the price.
On average in Russia, Kalmatron is sold at 75 rubles per 1 kg. For 1,500 rubles you can take a whole bag and process about 12 square meters surfaces. It turns out cheaper than bitumen mastic. Because the specialization of the material is completely different. There are other mixtures on the market that operate on a similar principle.
The essence of the idea is that the production of a waterproofing layer can be done different materials. The base plays a big role. Calmatron is not suitable for wooden base(judging by the description), and bitumen mastic will generally be suitable. Because the operating principle is different. Penetrating waterproofing reacts with the products of hardened cement stone, and the mastic forms a surface layer, the main thing for it is to cling to the base.
The catch is that manufacturers of penetrating waterproofing do not provide tensile strength characteristics. Of course, they should be acceptable, but I would like to see specific numbers. In this case, the compressive strength is given and amounts to 25 MPa. This is less than most bricks and corresponds approximately to concrete grade M250.
Based on the cost of materials, we can conclude that you should work economically. You can often see a scheme in which the floor is first covered with mastic, then it is applied on top under the tiles. There is no logical explanation for this. Except that the bathroom floor is completely damp. This doesn't happen in the average home. Moisture rises through the capillaries of the brick, which affects the durability of the structure. This is why the base is processed.
We have already said that a concrete base is much easier to use. If only because waterproofing materials are cheaper for it. There is an opportunity to collect small granite, gravel or even rubble somewhere; you should not neglect this. Making waterproof concrete from a high grade of cement using a properly selected recipe is not a complicated process. An additional advantage is that the dimensions of the brick do not affect the design process in any way.
Generally speaking, a homemade concrete pallet can be poured in one piece. Weight is calculated using typical formulas (depending on the brand). This works especially well on a vibration stand. The only problem here is that you need a powerful machine to shake such a huge thing. After installing and covering the pallet with a layer of waterproofing, it is faced with mosaic or other type ceramic tiles. The tray can be formed directly with the drain, leave a special edge for the corner, mounting holes (for mounting on the bathroom floor, like a toilet), and so on.
You see that the question of what to make a pallet from in the house is not as simple as it seems at first glance. On the one hand, brick structures have proven themselves well. On the other hand, their correct assembly is very difficult. This does not mean masonry with bandaging of seams, but the complexity of waterproofing work.
The strength of the board is not very high, and the wood will not escape the process of rotting. That's why installing a pallet in in this case has its own characteristics. In a private house, it is better to choose a structure that is as light as possible, and make the foundation in such a way as to ensure by simple means dry bathroom floor. At first glance, it does not seem possible to fulfill these requirements.
In fact, it is still possible to install the cabin in wooden house with an underground floor and other delights of village life. In this case, the main tasks are as follows:
Amateur craftsmen offer the following to install a shower cabin in a wooden house non-standard solution. The pallet is bought ready-made in the store, but without legs, or the legs are not involved in its installation. Instead, a frame is assembled from polypropylene pipes. It consists of two frames running along the perimeter (top and bottom). Installing a shower tray on such a foundation means solving several problems in the bathroom at once:
Polypropylene pipes are very simply attached to the floor and serve as the basis for hanging a decorative base. The corner can be bought in a store made of polycarbonate, which will further reduce the weight of the entire structure. You can rant for a long time about the fact that the fan is supposedly difficult to install, but readers should also be aware that for wooden houses Special ventilation (supply) valves are sold for installation into walls, including those with controlled flaps and other features. It doesn't cost anything to set this up to track humidity levels.
In a wooden house, a tiled shower does not always look its best. At least due to its large mass. Of course, no one forbids covering the base with mosaics. Finally, we note that when making a foundation from polypropylene pipe, you need to provide some kind of support for the center of the pallet. Otherwise, the product will easily be crushed underfoot. In this sense, it is sometimes useful in the store to pay attention to deep pallets, which are equipped with supporting metal profile. And then try the option with polypropylene pipes.
Showers have long been a part of the lives of most citizens. But there is one important problem - if you take an economy class cabin ( up to 30 thousand rubles), problems with its quality will be visible after the first month of use. What to do if funds for repairs are limited, but you want a shower? It's simple - you need to make a shower cabin with your own hands!
At first glance, this is a rather complex process that requires skills. Indeed, making a shower room from bricks and tiles will not be easy. But thanks to our detailed instructions, accompanied by photos, and comments from our expert, everything is quite doable.
Planning and preliminary calculations are perhaps the most important stages repair. Accuracy and compliance with all standards are very important here, neglect of which can lead to wasted money and time.
When creating a floor plan, it is very important to mark the installation locations of the shower, sink, technical appliances, cabinets, niches, etc.
In addition, the layout of water supply, sewerage, and electrical wiring systems is schematically depicted.For the shower stall, it is worth making a separate diagram, in which you indicate the type of sewerage system, location of the drain, fixation of the shower stand, doors ( if their presence is assumed in the design).
Be sure to provide for the wiring of water supply pipes and electricity, if necessary, in advance.
You can make such a booth in a private house ( maybe not in a wooden one), and in the apartment.
In hardware stores you can purchase a ready-made shower tray made of acrylic or cast iron. Its advantage is ease of installation and minimum costs installation time. However, there is a serious drawback - size limitations. In addition, its installation still requires bricklaying work.
Therefore, we offer the most common option - to make a shower tray out of brick with your own hands.
This method is much more reliable and practical, especially if the work takes place on initial stages repair.
Initially, the installation location of the ladder is determined ( siphon). As a rule, it is recommended to install it in easily accessible places, which will simplify its routine inspections and replacement procedure ( drains and siphons often break).
We draw a diagram on the floor for accuracy of future installation, and also install and secure the drain at the level of the future floor of the shower tray. We fix the drain pipe with cement mortar. Be sure to maintain the slope of the pipe, at a rate of at least 1.5 cm per 1 meter of pipe.
Comment from our expert:"Yes that's right. But I would also give this advice - when designing a shower stall, it is better to focus on the size of the tiles with which the shower stall will be covered. Because sometimes you can make the corner of the partition smaller and you won’t need to cut a lot of tiles.”
Now, we lay the first row along the marked line on the cement mortar. The bricks are placed on edge, this will be the front part of the future pallet.
After the first row of the brick pallet is ready, the floor is laid on the rough subfloor. thermal insulation material (expanded polystyrene). For stronger fixation to the base, you can use polyurethane foam.
It is advisable to put something heavy on top of the insulation so that it sticks more tightly to the floor.
In our example, brick was used. It is also recommended to “foam” the polystyrene foam at the corners and joints to insulate it.
Now, it’s time to mix the mortar for the internal rough screed, with the addition of expanded clay. The proportions of such a screed are standard: 3 buckets of sand – 1 bucket of cement – 4 buckets of expanded clay.
The finished mass is poured into the shower tray, while the master must take into account the slope converging to the drain. You need to maintain a level of 10 mm below the drain neck. The setting and initial hardening time is a day.
After 24 hours have passed from the moment of pouring the rough mortar, you can begin the finishing self-leveling screed, while also monitoring the safety of the slope.
The hardening time is also a day, then you can begin control measurements. We pour the leveling screed into the level with the neck of the drain, but leave a slight slope.You can check the efficiency of the drainage system, as well as the correct design of the pan, by pouring a bucket of water into it. If all recommendations are followed, all available water should go down the drain.
A shower partition is a wall that prevents water from directly entering the room, as well as from splashing onto plumbing fixtures and household appliances. The main material for this process will still be brick.
Initially, vertical guides from wooden beam, which can be used to more accurately maintain the level. This is not a mandatory item, but experienced craftsmen We recommend doing this for convenience.
Mix the mortar for laying bricks. Standard proportions for bricklaying: 1 part cement to 4-5 parts sand. Add water by eye so that the solution is not too liquid.
Comment from our expert:“If the installation is being done by a beginner, then you can add a little bit of any detergent to the solution, which will prevent it from drying out quickly. In such conditions, it is much easier to make adjustments and correct errors in installation, if necessary. Detergent will not affect the quality of the mixture and its final properties. Literally 100 grams is enough for a large bucket of solution.”
The brick wall is laid out edgewise, while the principle of “taking a run” is observed. With each laid brick, the level is checked horizontally and vertically.
Regarding the height of the wall - as a rule, a distance of +30 - +40 cm is maintained from the level of the shower head.
In order not to spoil the coating of the pallet, it is better to cover it with cardboard.
To strengthen weak points, reinforcing “punched tape” is used, and between the rows of bricks, on the wall side, it is recommended to fasten pieces of reinforcement. They are intended for connection brickwork with the main wall.
This process is carried out by drilling holes in the wall and placing reinforcing scraps in them, 20-30 cm long, later they are walled up with mortar and the protruding part is held together brick wall from the main one.
The laying of metal parts of the parts occurs every 2-3 rows.
Having completed the construction of the partition, all that remains is to remove the wooden guide bars and wait for the solution to harden. This will take about 48 hours. The final time for complete setting may vary depending on the microclimate in the room.
It is better to use compositions based on bitumen mastic as a waterproofing material. This product treats the entire surface of the cabin - walls, floors, partitions. Application takes place in 2 layers, with an interval of two hours between them. We will not describe in detail here how to do everything correctly; we have a detailed, complete article on waterproofing with examples, tips and photos.
Regarding tiling a shower stall, we will also not describe the process in detail in this article, because... There is a separate article on this topic, and the only difference here is more cut tiles.
First we finish the shower walls, then the floor.After all surfaces are tiled, you need to make a small side of the same at the location of the door. This will prevent water from leaking out. This is done simply by applying a slightly larger layer of tile adhesive.
Installation of fittings is carried out after all work on the construction of the cabin structure has been completed.
As accessories, you can choose ready-made shower stands; they are a system consisting of a mixer, a watering can and a watering can tropical shower. Such systems are widely available in hardware stores specializing in plumbing equipment.
The final design and set of configurations directly depends on the user’s preferences. The main thing is to pay attention to the quality of workmanship, the material of the parts, and the availability of documentation. It is these factors that influence the efficiency of the system and guarantee its durability.
Regarding the need to install doors, there is no consensus on this issue.
There are options here:In our example, we hung a regular curtain.
As ready-made options The doors presented in stores are made of polycarbonate and high-strength glass. They guarantee maximum lighting levels and are easy to clean. If desired, you can do individual order, with the application of images and textures that will complement the interior.
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A small bathroom area is a common phenomenon. And if the bathroom is also combined, then unless there is an urgent need, having a bathtub there does not make sense. In such a situation, converting the bathroom into a shower is the optimal solution that will make the bathroom more spacious. The simplest technical solution is to install a shower stall. However high price shower cabins with a tray limits their popularity, so when arranging a shower room, the question arises of how to enclose the shower in order to protect the space from splashes of water.
A solution to the problem may be to purchase a cabin that is not equipped with a pallet, and then make a pallet for it yourself. But the cost of a cabin even of such a lightweight configuration is not publicly available, so a movable one will help protect the adjacent space from splashes. decorative curtain, hung on a guide pipe attached to the wall. The absence of cabin walls is compensated for by handrails fixed to the wall in case of a fall. An independent tiled shower tray will help you deal with water on the floor.
Two ways to build a shower tray with your own hands:
The first method is easier to implement, but the price factor will also not suit everyone. Therefore, let’s consider arranging a pallet with our own hands.
Volume upcoming works Let's divide it into stages:
When they produce in the bathroom major renovation, a plan is drawn up for the location of plumbing, to which water supply and sewerage will subsequently be attached. In this case, constructing and arranging a pallet with your own hands is not difficult, since technologically they will be rationally included in the overall scope of work.
If the construction of a tray for installing a shower cabin is carried out in an already equipped bathroom, then its location must be linked to the existing water supply and sewerage systems, which imposes certain restrictions. Optimal place for a shower in the bathroom - away from front door and closer to the water supply and sewer system.
The pallet can be rectangular, round, oval or angular in shape, and its dimensions in plan range from 70 cm to 110 cm and above, as they depend on the size of the room, as well as the build of the users. The height of the curb (side) of the pallet can be from 5 to 25 cm and depends on the age and taste of the residents.
A rational solution may be to construct a pallet with the possibility of installing a specific model of cabin without a floor on it in the future. In this case, they study the range of cabins and take measurements of the dimensions of the model they like in plan.
Having decided on the shape and location of the pallet, mark its outline on the floor with a marker or chalk.
Having the markings of the future pallet, you can calculate the need for materials for its construction, arrangement and finishing. If you plan to do the cladding with tiles, then you need to buy it with a margin of 10%. For reasons of strength, the drain is made of metal, with a water seal to isolate it from the main volume of the sewer system.
To waterproof the subfloor, use roofing felt, thick celluloid film or rolled bitulin. Bitumen mastic is used to treat joints.
To install floor thermal insulation with your own hands, use extruded foam sheets 3-4 cm thick, the density of which allows you to withstand the load from a person standing on it.
Tile adhesive must be waterproof. The adhesives “Unis Plus”, “Unis Pool”, “Litokol K 80” and “Ceresit SM 11” have a high degree of water resistance, which have proven themselves in rooms with high humidity and direct contact with water. Choosing any of them will be correct.
The mixture for grouting tile joints must also be moisture resistant. This quality is possessed by the Ceresit CE 40 aquastatic mixture, which additionally contains antifungal additives that prevent the formation of mold and blackness in the seams.
For safety reasons, the tiles for finishing the pallet should not be slippery, that is, its coefficient of friction should be 0.75 or higher. The resistance of the tiles to chemicals must be grade A or AA. The back of the tile should be marked with a cross-hatched foot to indicate “for flooring.” These characteristics must be printed on the ceramic packaging.
The side of a pallet of the required height can be laid out of brick, using waterproof tile adhesive instead of cement-sand mortar. Then the outside of the masonry is rough plastered with cement-sand mortar, and the inside is covered with a layer of waterproof glue “Unis Pool”, “Litokol K 80” or “Ceresit SM 11” 5-10 mm thick. The plaster and glue are allowed to dry for several days, after which the subfloor is waterproofed.
The side can also be made by pouring concrete into the formwork, assembled with your own hands along the outer contour of the marking, but this method takes more time, since it will take 3-4 weeks for the concrete to harden and dry. After drying, waterproof the subfloor.
Let's consider a situation where the tiling of the walls in the bathroom is finished (except for the two bottom rows), and you need to make a tray with your own hands.
The area for installing the pallet must be dry. We treat the platform, the junction of the inner surface of the side with the floor, as well as the adjacent walls up to the third row of tiles with two layers of bitumen mastic with a drying interval of a day. After the second layer has dried, lay down two layers of celluloid film in stripes with stripes overlapping 10 cm on the walls and 5 cm on the side and on each other.
The film layers are placed crosswise to each other, the overlaps are coated with bitumen mastic. Another layer of bitumen mastic is applied on top of the second layer of film, and a layer of extruded foam 3-5 cm thick is laid on top of it for thermal insulation. The joints of the foam with the side and among themselves are filled with silicone sealant. The mastic with sealant is allowed to dry for a day.
The lower part of the drain is placed in place, connected with a slope of 5% to the sewerage system with a 135 degree outlet, temporarily fixing it with improvised means. The assembly of the drain joints with the sewer pipe must be done at silicone sealant. Important! The quality of the elements connecting the drain to the sewage system must be high, since their replacement in the event of failure without damaging the finish will be impossible.
A screed with cement-sand mortar 3-4 cm thick is made on top of the thermal insulation, indicating the slope of the surface towards the ladder. Starting from the second day, the screed is watered with water for 3-4 days, then it should dry completely. The dried screed has a light gray color. After the screed has dried, inner surface The curb, as well as the wall up to the third row of tiles, are primed with two layers of waterproofing primer Ceresit ST-17, “Iceberg VD-AK-013” or an aqueous solution of latex (DVHB-70) in a ratio of 1:3. The first layer of primer dries for 6-8 hours, the second – 12 hours.
At making the right choice materials, laying tiles on a pallet is no different from tiling other surfaces. Good choice mosaic is used for cladding, since many mosaic seams increase the coefficient of surface friction, making the floor safe. In addition, the small format of smalt allows you to lay out oval surfaces of complex configurations with ceramics yourself.
When the pallet is lined and dry, finish laying the bottom rows of tiles on the walls.
Bathroom renovations often involve replacing plumbing fixtures. Installing a shower cabin with your own hands is possible, but if your budget is limited and there is no money to buy an expensive shower box or bathtub, you can make a shower tray with your own hands.
This solution also allows you to show your own individuality and creativity.
But it is not always possible to install such a tray in the bathroom.
In old buildings, bathrooms are very small, and in order to fit all the necessary plumbing there, you can make a small and unusually shaped shower tray from brick, concrete or tile.
To make a shower tray yourself, you need to carefully prepare the place where this structure will be.
Important! Before installing the shower tray, it is necessary to carry out high-quality waterproofing of all surfaces that are in close proximity to the planned structure.
One of the most common shower trays that are made at , are trays made of brick and concrete.
Such pallets can be made of any shape and size. A tray made of concrete and brick is an excellent alternative to an expensive shower box.
Materials and tools required to construct the pallet:
In order to make a shower tray with your own hands, you need to properly prepare the base.
Photo: site preparation It is better to make the pallet before the walls and floor are completely finished. In places where the pallet adjoins the wall, it is also necessary to treat the wall with waterproofing to avoid the appearance of mold.
Photo: waterproofing The waterproofing is applied with a paint brush in a thin layer, first under the screed, then on top of the screed and immediately before the cladding.
To keep the floor in the shower warm, you can lay it under a finishing screed. electrical system"Warm floor". Such a system is installed not only under the pallet itself, but also around it.
Photo: heated floor system After the first layer of waterproofing has completely dried, you can begin to form the outline of the brick shower tray.
Photo: brick outline Both ordinary brick and silicate brick are suitable for this. The brick is laid on a cement-sand mortar (or a special mixture that is sold in any hardware store). It is also necessary to lay a metal mesh on the base so that the base is very strong.
Photo: water drainage system Important! The water drain must be High Quality, since after the construction of the pallet is completed, it will no longer be possible to replace it.
After this, you can install construction beacons and pour rough screed. For a rough screed, you can use a cement-sand mortar with the addition of crushed stone.
Photo: screed The pouring area is small and a trowel or spatula is used to level the surface. The solution must be compacted using a trowel, immersing it edgewise into the solution with precise movements.
After the rough screed has dried, the surface must again be treated with a waterproofing mixture. This is done to prevent moisture from getting into deep layers of concrete or onto floor slabs.
Photo: waterproofing again Also high-quality waterproofing will help prevent the appearance of mold and mildew not only in the bathroom, but also in adjacent rooms.
Then a self-leveling mixture must be applied to the dry surface. You need to make a smooth depression around the drain so that the water drains smoothly. It is better to purchase a high quality metal water stack.
When the layer of self-leveling mixture has completely dried, you need to apply waterproofing again. This layer of waterproofing must be applied with particular care, especially where the floor meets the walls and around the water drain.
For special safety, it is better to make the sharp edge of the pallet smooth, semicircular.
The next step is to line the shower tray.
To cover the pallet, you can use ordinary ceramic floor tiles, but a mosaic will look more beautiful.
Materials and tools required for tiling a shower tray:
Photo: tools for laying tiles Before starting installation, you need to prepare an adhesive composition. It is prepared using a drill with a “mixer” attachment in the exact proportions recommended by the manufacturer.
Photo: adhesive composition for laying tiles Laying tiles must begin from one corner. For high-quality styling the adhesive mixture is applied to the surface with a notched trowel, the tile is laid on the adhesive and pressed down.
Photo: laying tiles To adjust the level, use a rubber hammer, tapping in the right places. The evenness and uniform size of the seams can be controlled using special plastic crosses.
After installation tiles the entire surface must be filled with a special mixture. It serves to prevent water from getting under the cladding.
The mixture is being prepared in small portions and rubbed into the seams using a rubber spatula.
Next, you need to rinse the entire surface with a damp cloth to remove any remaining grout. To make the seams the same, you can go through them reverse side spatula ( plastic handle special spatula is designed for this).
Photo: finished pallet After completing all the work, the surface of the tile is washed again and wiped dry.
Mosaic is very beautiful finishing material, which is usually used for lining shower trays, or for solving other design problems.
Photo: plastic and glass mosaic For bathroom Mosaic comes in glass and plastic. You can use any mosaic for the pallet.
For mosaics it is better to use an adhesive composition white. Laying the mosaic begins from one corner.
The adhesive composition is applied to the surface using a notched trowel, and the tile is applied. The tile is pressed a little, and excess glue must be removed immediately.
In the article: read detailed instructions about the installation of polypropylene pipes.
For ways to hide pipes in a toilet, watch the video.
Installed acrylic bathtub on a frame with your own hands, fits perfectly into the interior of a modern bathroom. How to do it? .
Trimming of tiles is carried out construction knife or with scissors, since the base of the mosaic can be paper or in the form of a mesh.
Photo: mosaic installation After laying the mosaic, you can begin grouting the joints. The seams are rubbed with a special waterproof grout mixture using a rubber spatula.
Grouting the joints on a mosaic is a very important moment, which must be carried out very quickly and any remaining grout should be wiped off immediately.
Photo: wash and wipe dry After filling the joints, thoroughly wash the lined surface and wipe dry.
