Wall insulation carried out as , so .
If it is necessary to insulate walls, then, as a rule, choose one insulation option: either from the inside load-bearing wall, or from external.
It is also possible to insulate a wall on both sides, but this is not always necessary: insulation options are selected based on climatic conditions, construction features, and individual preferences.
Indoor insulation is installed on the inside of the building.
The disadvantages of this option are the following:
Internal insulation of the walls of a house is good because:
At internal insulation it is necessary to install a reliable vapor barrier inside the building.
Insulation of walls from the outside is carried out with outside building. With this option, thermal insulation is maintained effective area structures, there is no need to install a vapor barrier layer. However, if the cladding of the building has already been completed, it must be dismantled.
External insulation
Before insulating the walls of the house and attic, it is necessary to correctly lay the layers of the cake. A pie wall is sequentially laid layers of materials, which serve to ensure a comfortable microclimate in the house.
Pie wall elements wooden house are:
wall pie
For all wooden wall elements it is necessary to use quality wood, which must be dried naturally. In addition, materials should be chosen of high quality and durable so that the walls perform their functions for many years.
For proper internal insulation of a wooden house, they are used insulation materials that, while maintaining thermal insulation properties, do not cause unpleasant odor, fireproof and environmentally friendly.
The most common options for internal insulation are:
Comparative characteristics of thermal insulation
The type of insulation should be chosen based on the characteristics of the building, climatic conditions, and the purpose of the building.
In wooden beams dried using the appropriate technology, cracks form that need to be sealed.
Means for sealing cracks are:
NOTE!
Insulation at the joints of timber is carried out using sealants, mixtures or adhesive shavings. If the wall is made of logs, then the joints should be sealed only with fibrous materials.
Wood requires constant care and timely sealing of cracks that may appear over time. Regular wood inspection will help prevent the gap from growing, which can reduce the insulating properties of the walls.
Sealing tow
Sealing with sealant
For the sheathing of walls inside a wooden dacha, wooden materials are used. Metal lathing is installed when the wall is covered with moisture-resistant plasterboard.
Lathing installation work includes row preparatory work in the following order:
Installation of the sheathing starts from the corners: using self-tapping screws, the corner posts are installed in place, their vertical position is checked with a level. Next, from the corners to the center, the remaining sheathing boards are attached along the entire perimeter.
The next step is to install strips around the wall openings.
CAREFULLY!
All wooden elements the lathing must be treated with solutions against mold, mildew, and moisture.
After installing the lathing, a layer of heat-insulating material is laid.
Installation of sheathing
When insulating walls internally, it is necessary to install a vapor barrier and waterproofing layer.
Vapor barrier materials can be:
The vapor barrier layer is produced taking into account the specifics of its installation:
Installation of vapor barrier
A waterproofing layer, which protects against moisture coming from outside, is laid on the wall. Laying nuances:
Wall waterproofing
Most popular waterproofing material is roofing felt. Vapor barriers and waterproofing must be installed to prevent condensation and ensure dryness of the wall pie. Now let's look at ways to insulate walls from the inside.
Before insulating the walls from the inside, it is necessary to secure the sheathing.
Mineral wool is a material that has good thermal insulation properties, is easy to install and durable.
It is necessary to lay mineral wool slabs between the sheathing boards in such a way that no gaps are formed.
Besides:
Mineral wool should be laid in an even layer: without creases and waves, if the installation is multi-layered, the joints should not overlap or form cracks.
After the insulation is securely fastened, a vapor barrier layer is laid on it.
Insulation with mineral wool
The installation technique with polystyrene foam is quite simple, and if done correctly, it can provide reliable thermal insulation in the house.
Insulation with expanded polystyrene occurs in several stages:
Insulation with polystyrene foam
Modern thermal insulation polyurethane foam is very well suited for insulating a wooden house from the inside, however, it requires compliance with certain requirements.
First of all, it is necessary to clean the walls from dust and sawdust, protect the floor, windows and doors with protective materials.
Insulation using polyurethane foam
Thus, insulation inside can be done quite effectively. If you carry out all the stages of laying the cake materials using proven technology, you can achieve good result: the walls will retain heat well in the room and thereby create favorable microclimate indoors on cold days.
Video instructions for insulating the walls of a private house:
In contact with
External thermal insulation residential building includes insulation of walls, roof, door and window openings, as well as foundation and sewer pipes. If insulation is carried out partially, it will not give the expected effect and significant savings. Only a full range of work will allow you to create maximum comfort in your home, even in the most severe frosts. Thanks to modern technologies, it is becoming increasingly easier to insulate a house from the outside with your own hands.
External thermal insulation of the roof is carried out during the construction stage. If the house is already in use, then it is more advisable to insulate the attic and inner side rafters For external work you will need very little: insulation, waterproofing film and lumber for sheathing. Foam plastic, polystyrene foam boards or mineral wool.
On rafter system A film is laid on top for waterproofing. Work begins from the eaves: the film is secured along the roof with a horizontal strip, fixing its edges with staplers to the wood. The second strip is laid overlapping, and construction tape is glued along the seam. The film is laid loosely, with sagging up to 2 cm between the rafter beams.
From timber 10x10 cm and cross slats knock down the sheathing over the film. The beams are nailed at a distance of 30-50 cm, depending on the type roofing. Vertical rows must coincide with the rafter beams and be attached to them. All wooden elements must first be treated with a primer deep penetration.
Insulation is tightly laid in the cells of the sheathing. For cold regions, laying in 2 layers is recommended, and the insulation should not protrude above the beams. All gaps that formed during installation must be thoroughly foamed, otherwise warm air will escape through them.
Sheathing boards are nailed onto the beams protruding from the heat-insulating layer. Then, if polystyrene foam boards are chosen as insulation, proceed to the installation of the roof. If the insulation was carried out with mineral wool, first cover it with a protective film, and then lay the finishing coating.
The process of insulating walls is the longest, because the working area is quite large. The whole process is divided into three stages - surface preparation, laying insulation and finishing. The facade can be tiled, decorative plaster or made ventilated.
For insulation you will need:
The walls are cleaned of peeling paint, plaster, whitewash, wires and external switches are removed, lighting- anything that can interfere with work. Brick and concrete surfaces are checked using a level, and unevenness and cracks are sealed with mortar. Before insulating the walls, it is advisable to replace or insulate the windows and seal the joints around the perimeter of the openings. Wooden walls must be cleaned of dust and moss, and then covered with 1-2 layers of antiseptic primer.
The next step is performed if the insulation is mineral wool. For polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam boards and polystyrene foam, the sheathing is not installed. Assemble the sheathing frame from 60x80 mm timber or special aluminum profiles. The timber must be well dried, without dents, bends, or traces of mold. Before installation, it is impregnated with an antiseptic primer mixture.
The beams are nailed to wooden walls; they are secured to concrete or brick walls using anchor dowels. The distance between the sheathing posts should be less than the width of the insulation by a couple of centimeters. This will allow you to insert the material as tightly as possible and avoid the formation of cracks.
Mineral wool slabs are inserted between the beams, being careful not to deform the corners. The thickness of the thermal insulation layer should not exceed the thickness of the beams. In cold regions, it is recommended to install a double layer of insulation, selecting the appropriate thickness of the timber.
Polyurethane foam boards and polystyrene foam are fastened differently. First, a stop bar is screwed along the wall, 10-15 cm away from the ground. The planks are overlapped together and connected at the corners with a special profile. Foam boards are applied to the wall, resting the bottom edge against the bar. Each plate is fixed to the wall with fasteners with caps. In the second row of insulation, the slabs must be shifted so that the seam falls in the middle of the bottom sheet.
A fiberglass reinforcing mesh is glued onto polystyrene foam and polyurethane foam sheets. After this, decorative plaster is mixed and the walls are finished. Instead of plaster, you can tile the walls. The use of mineral wool implies the arrangement of a ventilated facade, although certain types of mineral wool can also be plastered.
A polyethylene film or special film is fixed on top of the mineral wool. windproof membrane. Fix it to the wall surface using a stapler. Then a horizontal sheathing of boards is nailed onto the timber sheathing. You need to leave a small gap between the boards. After this, an end strip is installed along the outer perimeter of the house and the walls are sheathed with siding.
Insulating the outer part of the foundation prevents heat leakage in the basement, reduces the formation of condensation on the basement walls, and protects against dampness and mold development. Perlite bitumen slabs, sheets of polyurethane foam and expanded polystyrene, foam glass, as well as sand and expanded clay are used as insulation.
It is most convenient to waterproof the foundation during the construction of the house, otherwise you will have to dig a trench around the perimeter of the building. The foundation area is cleared of soil, a primer with high adhesion is applied, and the surface is allowed to dry. Next, the foundation needs to be covered with two layers liquid waterproofing. To do this, use either a polymer mastic or a two-component cement mortar with a rapid hardening effect. The layers should be uniform, without gaps.
The next stage is performed 5-7 days after applying the waterproofing. To attach the thermal insulation layer, glue is used, bitumen mastic or mushroom dowels. Insulation boards are lubricated with an adhesive solution and applied to the surface of the foundation. The seams are made as tight as possible, and excess glue is removed immediately. After covering the entire area, a reinforcing mesh is glued on top of the insulation.
Apply to the reinforcing mesh cement plaster and level the surface. On the protruding part of the foundation you can make decorative finishing, for example, a “fur coat” from the same solution. After this, the trench is covered with sand, expanded clay or small slag, sprinkled with earth on top and compacted. To avoid erosion, it is recommended to make a blind area with a width of 1 to 1.2 m. In areas where the level groundwater too high, an additional drainage system is required.
When thoroughly insulating a residential building, you cannot ignore the veranda and other extensions. The wall and adjacent structures are unprotected, so a significant part of the heat escapes outside. Many verandas are built on columnar foundations, leaving space between the base of the extension and the ground, which also increases heat loss.
Thermal insulation closed veranda is in many ways similar to insulating a balcony or loggia. First, the outer walls of the extension are cleaned and leveled. A trench 40-50 cm deep is dug along the perimeter, the space between the support pillars is closed brickwork or slate sheets. Foam plastic is glued to the slate, covered with a reinforcing mesh and plastered cement mortar. After the plaster has dried, the trench is filled in and compacted.
Then the surface of the walls is primed and the insulating material is attached using glue or disc dowels. The areas adjacent to door and window openings are coated with sealant. The thermal insulation is covered from above either with a sheathing of boards or a reinforcing mesh, and then the walls of the veranda are finished.
Every house has water supply, sewerage and heating pipes. Many of them are located outside the house and require mandatory insulation. The following materials are used for their thermal insulation:
It is especially important to properly insulate the sections of pipes at the exit from the soil and the entrance to the wall of the house.
There are two ways to do this.
When insulating walls and pipelines entering them, it is necessary to ensure a tight and reliable fit of the surfaces; it is best to foam the insertion point.
If all surfaces are insulated according to the rules, the effect will be noticeable almost immediately. Usually, external thermal insulation is enough to keep the house warm and comfortable. Internal insulation is carried out only when for some reason it is not possible to do it from the outside.
Many people face this problem: heat is not retained in a heated room; the reason for this may be the dissipation of thermal energy through the walls. How to deal with this? How to keep warm inside the house? How to insulate a house? What is the best way to insulate a house from the outside? For this purpose, the house is insulated. Most the right decision It will be necessary to insulate the walls of the room, their outer part, you can use any heat insulator for this.
It will be able to create protection for warm indoor air from external cold and will effectively maintain the necessary microclimate of the room. Also, the advantages of insulating external walls include their protection from water vapor and light radiation, which will significantly extend their service life.
What is the best way to insulate the outside walls of a house? What is the best way to insulate a house? How to insulate stone house, brick or wood? High-quality thermal insulation is the key to comfort and coziness of a private or country house.
How to insulate a house with your own hands? How to spend good thermal insulation and do it in the best possible way?
There are three main types of thermal insulation work in a private house:
The considered options represent a general direction; in each of them there may be certain changes associated with the use of certain materials as insulation. The modern market for thermal insulation materials is quite wide and some of them may require a different installation method.
Also, the choice of heat insulator and its parameters depend on the material from which the walls of the house are made. As an example, let's look at the principles of installing insulation for wooden, brick and concrete walls.
How to insulate? Any heat insulator has certain properties, but in any case it will be able to keep your home warm. They differ in price, in the material from which they are made and in such parameters as moisture resistance, vapor permeability and thermal conductivity. Insulation materials that are presented on construction market: expanded polystyrene, mineral wool, polyurethane foam, basalt slab and cellulose insulation.
The use of one or another insulating material is related to climatic conditions, installation method and thermal conductivity coefficient. When calculating, the width of the load-bearing wall, the thermal conductivity of the insulator, and the internal temperature of the room are taken into account. Then you can begin installing the insulation. How to prepare a wall for installation of insulation?
Let's look at the instructions:
You should use a primer that has the property of deep penetration into the wall, choosing one type or another depending on the material from which the surface to be primed is made.
Can be executed different materials. How to insulate the outside walls of a house? How do the materials differ from each other?
Using polystyrene foam as insulation. How to insulate a house from the outside using polystyrene foam? It is necessary to properly insulate according to the instructions.
Installation instructions for this heat-insulating product:
It should be noted that the sheets of each subsequent level are mounted in brick order, that is, the seam of the lower level is located in the middle of the sheet of the next row. This is done so that the sheets of the bottom row hold the top ones.
Expanded polystyrene is best suited for insulating walls made of brick and concrete. This installation of insulation also has its negative sides. For example, this material has low permeability to water vapor, as a result of which condensation that will accumulate in the wall can lead to it getting wet over time.
To avoid this, before installation work After installing the insulation, the walls must be thoroughly dried. It is also important to keep them dry during use. If all this cannot be achieved, then in this case It is better to use a method of installing insulation that provides for its ventilation.
Remember that ultimately there should be no place left in which the polystyrene foam will be accessible, otherwise small rodents may damage it and also affect it environment, which will lead to damage and reduced properties.
Thermal insulation of a house can be done with your own hands using polystyrene foam.
Many are inclined to believe that it is better to insulate walls with mineral wool. Mineral wool is another popular insulation material. How to insulate a private house using mineral wool? The installation of this insulation is similar in its technological procedures to thermal insulation made using basalt or cellulose slabs.
Installation instructions for mineral wool:
Some mineral wool options can be coated with plaster after installation. construction mesh or install a special vapor-permeable insulating film. Then you need to strengthen it and the heat insulator with additional wooden beams, after which it is installed facing material. Lining, various sidings, tiles and facing bricks are suitable.
This type of house insulation, three-layer ventilated, has proven itself in all climate zones. It is especially suitable for walls made of wood, as it allows the product to breathe and not become damp.
How to properly insulate a house using polyurethane foam? When installing this insulation, you must adhere to the same frame structure, as with insulation with mineral wool and installation of wind protection. In this case, polyurethane foam is foamed onto the wall in a space free from the frame under the film, forming a very strong connection with the wall, thanks to this, excellent result to preserve heat indoors.
But there is one drawback - when using this type of insulation, when installing on vertical walls, it is difficult to form a layer of the same thickness, so it is most often used on horizontal surfaces such as ceilings or roof slopes standing at a slight angle. Insulating walls with polyurethane is not difficult. It is necessary to insulate a house (budinka) using additional products.
Insulation of the walls of a house from the outside can be carried out using basalt slabs. When installing this heat-insulating product, it is necessary to additionally apply a vapor barrier film.
Laying this protective film carried out on bars that have a horizontal position, and between the rafters. Then it is necessary to seal the resulting joints. Sealing is done using specially designed tape. The layer should be 200 millimeters. Next, a layer of wind protection is laid, and a covering of lathing is made using beams. This is done in order to provide ventilation.
Before starting insulation external walls With this material, it is necessary to make a covering of laths - this differs from the thermal insulation of the internal walls of the building. A gap must be left to ensure ventilation. The basalt slabs are attached using self-tapping screws. The final stage of installation includes finishing the surface with siding or some other coating.
To insulate outside walls basalt slabs, you must strictly follow the rules. Insulation of a private house is often carried out using basalt slabs.
How to insulate walls using cellulose? Cellulose can be installed using three methods: mechanical, dry, wet.
The first mounting method involves the use of specially designed equipment. Insulating external walls with your own hands mechanically is quite expensive. Mechanical method has high performance. This method gives the walls the opportunity to “breathe”. Therefore, there is no need to apply a vapor barrier layer.
The dry installation method is used only for thermal insulation of horizontal surfaces. How to insulate walls from the outside using this method? The insulation product is applied to the walls manually without the use of special equipment. First, the cellulose must be fluffed, this is done using a drill.
Then it must be poured out of the container onto the surface. Next, it is compacted. If, after all, the insulation needs to be applied to a vertical surface, then the work will take place in two stages. First you need to build a wall from the frame, the height of which should be 50 centimeters. Then you need to pour in the thermal insulation product and compact it. This is how other parts of the walls are also insulated.
Wet method - it is used for thermal insulation of vertical structures. First, the cellulose must be moistened with water. Thanks to this procedure, the cellulose will set without problems.
All insulation methods can be used to insulate a private house from the outside. Or it will be insulation of a country house.
What is the best way to insulate a house from the outside? There are various materials for insulating walls outside. Each thermal insulation material has its own advantages and disadvantages. The main thing is that it is cheap, inexpensive, but of high quality. Use the material for insulating the outside of your home that has high technical characteristics.
We hope the description of each of them will help you do right choice. Insulation of walls from outside - important element in achieving overall comfort. You can insulate a house from the outside with your own hands without any help. You will achieve maximum comfort and coziness in your home.
For summer residents and owners of private houses, the question of how to insulate a house from the outside and with what remains one of the most pressing. How to properly insulate a house? Proper insulation of external walls not only creates a positive microclimate inside the home, but is also very economically beneficial. After all, the need to constantly use heating systems in cold weather is eliminated - therefore, you pay less for electricity. The second aspect is the constant “correct” temperature indoors, the absence of humidity and, as a result, the elimination of the appearance of fungus, mold, and putrefactive processes.
You can insulate the outside of your house with your own hands using various modern materials. Initially, you need to look at what the walls of the house are made of, and then decide on the choice of insulation. Each insulation has its own fastening technology. External thermal insulation is also good because it does not reduce the volume of the room, does not provoke the accumulation of moisture, and prevents “sweating” of the walls. Let's consider the most commonly used insulation materials and the specifics of their installation, methods of insulating a house from the outside.
Insulate the house from the outside with polystyrene foam - rational decision. This home insulation is good for everyone: it is lightweight, inexpensive, and does not require the use of any special technologies or tools.
Installation steps:
As for houses made of timber, before insulating a wooden house from the outside, carefully examine the surface for holes and cracks, and then seal them with mineral wool, polyurethane foam or ecowool. There should be no drafts or air pockets.
Before we begin describing the characteristics of another insulation material, it is worth clarifying some nuances regarding foam plastic. To the frequently asked question: is it possible to use it to insulate a house from the outside, the answer will be positive - yes, it is possible.
It is characterized by fairly good thermal insulation parameters, but there is an opinion that it is short-lived, has high flammability, and is unsafe from an environmental point of view.
Let's look at these factors in more detail:
Very often you can hear the question, what is the difference between polystyrene foam and penoplex? These thermal insulation materials are indeed practically the same: both have a light weight, moisture resistant, do not rot, afraid of solvents, acetone. Both have a “related” origin - the method of foaming polystyrene. In appearance, their difference lies in different colors– penoplex has a yellow-orange color. But when the question arises, what is the best way to insulate the outside walls of a house with foam plastic or penoplex, the latter demonstrates higher density, moisture resistance, and air tightness.
If you live in the zone high humidity, then when choosing insulation for external walls it is better to opt for penoplex. The same mineral wool in such conditions is completely unsuitable for insulating walls and foundations.
A short list of penoplex characteristics:
In turn, foam plastic:
Otherwise, they are almost the same, the choice is yours with what to insulate.
Now let's look at what is better to insulate the house from the outside, foam plastic or mineral wool? Again, the choice is always determined by many factors: price, climatic conditions, the material from which the house was built. For example, mineral wool is optimal for a wooden house ( stone wool, glass wool), it is a non-flammable building material. When working with mineral wool, you should wear protective clothing, gloves, and a respirator.
If we consider the characteristics of both insulation from manufacturers, approximately the same thermal conductivity parameters will be indicated. In fact, this is not entirely true - foam plastic when insulated shows top scores. It can only be compared with dense balsalt wool in slabs - one of the varieties of mineral wool. In terms of ease of installation, foam insulation also wins: no protection when working with the material, low weight, no dust during processing. Plus, insulating with polystyrene foam is cheaper than using mineral wool.
Mineral wool performs better at joints, cold bridges are practically eliminated, while polystyrene foam suffers from this. The problem is solved if for certain stages of work you choose sheets with an L-shaped edge. How to insulate the walls of a house from the outside, if they have uneven surface? Mineral wool is good because it can be cut into fragments of any shape and size - this is very convenient when insulating uneven walls. For foam insulation, the surface must be flat.
Sometimes they are used together, this technique is called multi-layer thermal insulation. In such cases, the foam should be located under the mineral wool. Mineral wool should act as the top layer.
Some modern building materials used to build houses initially have high thermal insulation properties. Often the manufacturer assures that a house built from this material will not require additional insulation. This is not always the case; let’s take, for example, aerated concrete - an excellent environmentally friendly building material with a cellular structure. It really has high thermal insulation performance, but it also needs insulation.
How to insulate a house made of aerated concrete from the outside? Due to their high vapor permeability, polystyrene foam or penoplex should be immediately excluded. If there is a disruption in air exchange between the interior and external environment, condensation collects at the boundary of the wall and the thermal insulation material (which is why it is constantly wet). If aerated concrete gets wet, it will develop mold, fungi, and putrefactive processes. In this situation, polyurethane or mineral wool in the form of mats would be appropriate as insulation.
Initially, the surface of the wall is cleared of debris and then primed. Any unevenness is plastered with a special mixture.
Installation steps:
The presence of high-quality waterproofing is extremely important for walls made of aerated concrete, since the porous structure actively absorbs moisture. When insulating such a house, you should exclude dowels and screws, since any minor chips or cracks can lead to disastrous results for the entire structure. Suitable adhesive mixtures or chemical anchors may be used.
Now let's look at how to insulate a house from wooden beam 150x150 outside. In theory, it would also be possible to use polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam here, but there is one “but” - they are not suitable for wooden houses due to ventilation requirements. Mineral wool allows air to pass through well and at the same time provides thermal insulation. In turn, polystyrene foam provides a reliable barrier to cold, but does not allow free air exchange, which is important for houses made of timber. If wooden walls are insulated with it, then after some time fungus and rot will appear on them, especially since in winter there will be nowhere to escape the condensation.
In addition to mineral wool, you will need waterproofing, a construction stapler, self-tapping screws with anchors, and a protective antifungal agent, which will need to be used to pre-treat the surface of the walls.
The installation steps are as follows:
Mineral wool should be placed tightly, without through gaps. Vents should be left below, near the foundation and above, under the roof overhang, to ensure air circulation and steam removal (so that condensation does not settle on the vapor barrier layer).
What is the best way to insulate the basement of a house from the outside? The base also absorbs precipitation, which means that the insulation for it must have reliable waterproof qualities. This part of the house can be insulated using foaming agents, mineral wool, and polystyrene foam. Each of them requires an individual approach and installation features. However, the best and easiest to work with is polystyrene - durable, strong, and moisture-resistant. In all respects, this material is the most advantageous among other insulation materials.
Before installing polystyrene boards, the surface must be treated with a primer. Fastening is done on top of the waterproofing layer, with polyurethane glue or using bitumen-polymer mastic. It is important that glue mixture did not contain solvents - this destroys the material. The thicker the slab you choose, the better the insulation will be.
Any house, no matter what it is built from, needs proper insulation. The answer to the question of how to insulate a house from the outside and with what will depend on many factors: the original material of the building, the atmospheric characteristics of the region, the cost of the insulation. In any case, it is better to spend money once on high-quality insulation outside than to give heat to the street for years and heat the house around the clock.
You can learn how to insulate a house from many sources, construction crews who specialize in this will also tell you a lot of things in detail. But all this - thermal insulation according to the rules - requires a lot of money.
Very often it is necessary to insulate an old house or a country house, perhaps not so durable, and not very beautiful, but as cheaply and quickly as possible. The most cheap insulation, by the way, from natural materials, which were used by our grandfathers...
You need to decide to what extent to insulate the house. For example, to make it a little warmer, or noticeably warmer, or to insulate it so that heating becomes 3 times cheaper (for example), and in winter the temperature inside rises to +25 degrees without stress on the heating side. Those. thermal insulation measures will be economically feasible and will quickly pay for themselves.
It is advantageous to insulate according to last option, i.e. the highest quality. And half-hearted solutions are a waste of time, effort and resources.
Therefore, you will have to forget about all sorts of old blankets, bedding, and 5 mm thick penofols as insulation. The thickness of the insulation should be measured in tens of centimeters, then it will be warm, and saving on energy resources will “inflate your pocket.”
But how can you insulate a house at an extremely low cost? If you buy cotton insulation in hypermarkets, it won’t be cheap; if you replace windows and doors, it will be even more expensive. Let's try to make sure that the insulation is as inexpensive as possible.
The lion's share of heat can escape through windows and doors due to cracks and drafts. Insulating a house should begin by installing seals where anything opens. Nowadays it is not difficult to choose an adhesive-based sealant. 
It is possible that there are simply gaps in the frames, trays or along their perimeter. Then all of them need to be sealed with sealant or in combination with fabric, and from the street side too.
Very often there are gaps where the glass meets the frames. Scotch tape won't help much here, although you can use it. But it’s better to take out the glass and put it on sealant.
The issue of windows and doors is the basis of heat conservation. The best solution is to insert modern frames with double-glazed windows, but this action will be the most expensive. 
You need to think about which windows can be covered from the outside with plastic film for the winter so that the illumination and visibility to the street are not greatly affected. From the film it turns out " homemade double glazed window"if you pull it 1.5 - 2 cm from the glass, and at the same time make the connection with the frame airtight. To help - glazing beads, small nails, possibly sealant, after which heat leakage through this window will be reduced significantly.
Old doors, especially metal ones, are a serious bridge of cold (a place where heat escapes from the house). And if the outline of the door is already sealed, then all that remains is to stick 5 cm of dense foam plastic on top of the door leaf. As a last resort, nail a cotton blanket or felt at least 3 cm thick.
You shouldn’t bother with wall insulation if the issue with attic floor and floors. Walls are not so decisive, and besides, they won’t work out cheaply. And on a horizontal surface you can put any insulation. 
To insulate ceiling and floors as cheaply as possible, all that remains is to collect fallen leaves from all over the area, and also, if possible, straw and hay.
But these organic materials need to be mixed with crumbly lime to prevent biological destruction and reduce the desire of rodents to settle in such a comfortable environment. However, it is no secret that the hayloft in the attic has been used since ancient times as...
In the attic you need to store a layer of natural insulation at least 35 cm thick to get the effect. Can it be replaced? Yes, the cheapest option is to replace it with polystyrene foam with a layer of 15 cm or more for a temperate climate.
You can use the cheapest one with the lowest density. But it needs to be laid in several layers, with offset seams between the sheets in the layers, so that cold bridges do not arise along the cracks. If you cover the foam with plywood and then a board, you can walk on it...
When insulating the ceiling of a house, a vapor barrier is needed. Otherwise, we risk getting the insulation, even the foam, wet, because the steam will condense just inside its layer. Therefore, first of all, the attic needs to be completely covered with plastic film. The same goes for any layer in the attic.
Carrying out work on floors is not fundamentally different from ceilings. First, a vapor barrier on the side of the house, then 10 cm of polystyrene foam or 25 cm of natural insulation. But how to place it all? 
The insulation of finished floors depends entirely on their design. The low underground is covered with insulation on waterproofed soil. Otherwise, the insulation is placed between the joists on the panels, ventilated from below, and insulated from the side of the house by water vapor.
If it is not possible to open the floors, then all that remains is to lay something on top of the existing ones wooden floors. Then make a double floor? But it will be more expensive. "Rags" won't help. Even felt 1 cm thick will help little. But when hopeless situation and it applies.
The cheapest and easiest way is to simply lay polyethylene on the existing floor, then the same foam plastic but with a higher density of 30 kg/m cube 5 cm thick in two layers with bandaging of the seams, and simply lay a platform on it from tongue-and-groove joined boards. But at the same time, the lower old floor will quickly dry out, especially if the ventilation from below is poor...
If the loss of room height when laying a new layer on the floor is not acceptable, then maybe it’s still worth doing major insulation of the floors from underground, at least in one room to begin with...?
Why did they make the pile? At least a quarter of the heat leaving the house was saved by heaps - stored hay, straw, under the boards around the perimeter of the house. This reduced heat loss through the walls, foundation and floors of the house. Now the rubble can be partially replaced by a blind area insulated with extruded polystyrene foam.
Thermal insulation of the ground around the house and the foundation itself is not only a reduction in heat loss, but also measures aimed at preserving the house and increasing its durability. More information about measures against soil heaving can be found on these pages.
If we're talking about O wooden house, then it’s most likely not worth insulating the walls. 20 cm of dry wood is equivalent in thermal insulation to 5 cm of polystyrene foam. Almost the norm for walls in temperate climates. But if the walls are stone, brick, reinforced concrete, then you need to insulate them.
The problem is that it won’t work out cheaply with walls - you need modern insulation, which must be fixed to a vertical surface and protected from atmospheric influences. The insulation must be more vapor-transparent than the wall, therefore, for wood and foam concrete, mineral wool is needed, and for brick and concrete, ordinary polystyrene foam can be used.
You can insulate the walls yourself, so you will only have to spend money on materials. If you don't rush, you can insulate the walls in more than one season. But it needs to be done efficiently, in compliance with technology.
You can find out how the walls of a house are thermally insulated at this resource. Here, for example, let us recall key points How to inexpensively cover a wall with foam plastic.
A short review about inexpensive home insulation provides only primary knowledge about the technologies used. During the work process, many questions will arise that cannot be addressed in one article. You need to know that thermal insulation measures in themselves are not complicated, so you can take on the task yourself, which means saving at least half of the money costs.
