Wooden materials retain heat well, are environmentally friendly, and also have an attractive appearance. You can prepare a log house with your own hands.
To prepare a log house, you need to take the following tools:
Logs can be processed underneath to make the work being done safer. The construction of a log house takes place in three stages: the main part is completed, and then the middle and upper. Along the entire length, the log may have different circumferences, so you need to change the top and butt. If you make an edging, then the crowns will connect well and not form large gaps. The deck in the extreme part is trimmed on both sides to create a flat surface.
First, timber is harvested, having previously calculated required quantity and sizes of logs, these indicators depend on the width, height and length of the building. Therefore, before starting this work, it is necessary to make a drawing of the building with clear dimensions and calculate the amount of material. Preparation of a log house depends on the layout, type of fastening of logs, and their processing.
When completing a project, they note what shape the building will be, that is, it can be standard, which consists of four walls. Or maybe have unusual look, and include a larger number of load-bearing elements.
Logs are attached in two ways: in a “bowl” and in a “paw”; these types of groove construction differ. With the first option, strong wind does not affect the corner parts of the building, but more material is wasted when bandaging.
With the second option, less material will be needed, but the corner parts will be affected strong wind, and also making grooves is more difficult.
The building can be made of cylindrical and profiled logs. In the first case, the log is processed until it takes the shape of a cylinder; special machines are used for this. This material has a number of advantages:
The profiled timber has a rectangular or square shape when cut, and its processing is also carried out using a machine. At the final stage, the side parts of the log will be flat, and there will be special grooves at the top and bottom for fastening. This material also has its advantages:
For the manufacture of logs they use coniferous species tree. After harvesting the logs, the bark is removed and dried.
According to the drawing, markings are made on the territory, stakes are installed and the rope is pulled. Then a foundation is made in the form of linings, with dimensions of 1 meter in length and 1/3 meter in circumference. They are laid near the corner part of the proposed building using a level, and the load will be uniform.
Then they build an edging, choose where it will be located, and lay it with this part up, fixing the log with brackets. Using a plumb line, draw lines vertically; they will be the outermost parts of the edge. They stretch the rope along the edges of the log, make cuts, and cut off the material until the edge is completely obtained. The same work is carried out on the opposite part of the log.
After the foundation is poured, it must be left to dry completely.
Lay on the completed foundation waterproofing material, you can use roofing felt. A board with a thickness of 5 centimeters is installed on top, on which the crown will be located. To keep the building warm, tow is laid on top.
Then the initial crown is laid, in which the logs should have a larger circumference compared to the rest of the material. Before starting this work, notches of about 15 centimeters along the entire length are made on the log. In this case, the material will adhere tightly to the board.
After this, the remaining crowns are laid to the required height. Tow is placed between the elements of the crown, the logs are tied in the corner part, spikes are also used for a tight connection, they are placed at a distance of up to 1 meter. In this case, the building will have good stability.
First, mark the doorway, then install the logs using a dowel. Check using plumb lines vertical arrangement corner parts, the final window sill beam is installed on two dowels.
Then the crowns of the window element are laid, keeping the opening height to 130 centimeters. After this, the strapping is performed in the upper part.
After this, the elements for the rafters are prepared, for this purpose the logs are cut off, and about two edges are made on each of them. The elements are cut into the deck, and recesses for the rafter legs are made with a chisel.
When making rafters, there should not be many small knots in the log. Near the base of the rafters, a tenon is made by sawing, and paired installation is carried out.
Openings can be made in two ways: after the work is completed, and during construction.
In the first option, the installation of openings is carried out after completion of all work; for this, gaps are made in the crowns at the intended location. After installation is completed, these openings are cut out using a chainsaw.
In the second option, the openings are made during the process of laying logs; special bars and grooves are used for this; this method takes a lot of time and money.
Metal materials cannot be used as casing, as heat will escape through them. To install the socket on the end parts of the logs, a vertical tenon 50*50 is made on each side. They install a pigtail on it, with it reverse side the groove is located.
First, the beams are laid on the walls.
The beams are secured and the rafter legs are installed at a distance of 1 meter. A corner cut is made near the ridge for a tight connection.
Boards are nailed to the feet of the rafters or lathing is made.
Then lay the main roof covering according to the instructions for the selected material.
The ridge is covered with galvanization to protect it from strong winds and precipitation.
After completing all the work, I begin the interior finishing, namely the construction of floors.
The pillars are:
They are arranged according to their names, the thickest elements are the corner ones, the thin ones are the intermediate ones.
Corner posts are placed in a pocket, the depth of which is up to 7 centimeters. The remaining pillars are installed at a depth of about 3 centimeters. Up to three edges are made on the log house; after shrinkage occurs, they begin laying the remaining pillars.
At the end, the rafters are installed, for this they use walkways, jibs and nails as fastenings. The elements are laid on the walkways, top part fastened with nails. Spikes rafter elements placed in pockets, secured with jibs, and legs secured with staples.
After all work is completed, the building is left for 1 year to shrink. To prevent the doors and windows from skewing, and to prevent the material from deforming, it is necessary to make gaps that disappear over time. While shrinkage occurs, you can construct the floor or rafters for the roof.
After shrinkage occurs, tow fills all the resulting gaps.
When constructing log buildings, the following rules must be followed:
In order to build from a log house, it is necessary to select the desired processing of the log, prepare the material, build a foundation, put waterproofing material and boards on it, and lay the initial crown of the log house on them. Then they begin to build the remaining crowns to the required height, after that they make openings for doors and windows, make floors, and leave the building to shrink, after which the roof can be made. To prevent deformation of the material and openings, it is necessary to leave compensation gaps that are filled with tow.
If the work is done correctly, the building will be warm and durable.
Used by people for many thousands of years wooden houses, and their popularity in the 21st century is reaching new level. Before you build a log house from round timber, you need to know a lot of things. There are many advantages to this type of house: environmental friendliness, design, it warms up easily and retains heat for a long time, it breathes, so there is always fresh air inside.
Parameters for building a house from timber.
Tools and materials:
Diagram of a log cup for a corner cut.
At the very beginning, a foundation is made under the log house, and its depth may be minimal, but it will have to be raised high enough above the surface of the earth so that seasonal moisture does not destroy the wood. Shallow depth is optimal strip foundation, which does not require much effort and time.
To begin with, a trench is dug around the perimeter 35 cm deep and 40 cm wide, and at least 2 walls are formed inside to increase strength. After the required trench has been dug, you need to level its walls and bottom, so that the solution being poured will be highly reliable.
A 5 cm sand cushion is poured onto the bottom and watered. While the water dries (2-3 days), you need to prepare the remaining elements.
Now you need to make the formwork. It will require edged board 25x150 mm, and the height of the panels will be 0.7 m. It is advisable to make the formwork for the entire building at once, so that later you do not have to fill it in parts. All fastening of boards is carried out with nails, since with screws you will have to spend 2-3 times more time so as not to split the boards.
The reinforcing frame is fitted with a 10 mm ribbed rod. IN in this case the process looks standard:
Figure 1. Scheme for marking a log when chopping into a paw.
During manufacturing, you need to be careful so that the metal does not touch the formwork and sand. In order to lift the reinforcement above the sand, you need to use broken brick or special plastic stars. You need to weld rods on top in increments of 1 m in order to ensure a high-quality joint between the round timber and the concrete.
Now you can pour the concrete solution M300-350, after which you can safely leave it to dry for 28 days. After this time, the formwork is dismantled, and all open areas of concrete are laid with roofing felt and burned gas burner. Steel rods also need to be covered with waterproofing.
Tools and materials:
Figure 2. Connection diagram for a paw with a spike.
Now you can make a log house from round timber. There are only 2 cutting options that are especially popular: Russian and Canadian. Outwardly the result is identical, but in practice canadian bowl(Fig. 1) universal, because allows you to harvest wood in any season, and after shrinkage (up to 10 cm), cracks do not appear. There are 2 cutting methods - in the bowl and in the paw (Fig. 2), but because of its reliability, the bowl is especially popular.
There is a small nuance that not everyone adheres to, which is why wood is sometimes judged negatively: you need to shape all the elements with an axe, because... in these places the likelihood of rotting is reduced many times. In no case should you use rounded versions, because... During industrial processing, the protective layer is removed from wood. The only advantage of the rounded version is its thermal insulation, which is better than all analogues.
Glued laminated timber is an intermediate link, i.e. has intermediate strength characteristics, and at the same time average thermal insulation and weight. It differs in the method of joining - vertical. This method does not require cutting grooves along the edges, because it has a continuous groove along its entire length, into which the next similar specimen can be installed.
Scheme of a vertical section of an inter-crown connection.
After the entire frame is done, you can begin to cut down the doors and windows. Such a move is quite unusual in modern realities, but it is he who will ensure ideal quality. For strength, you need to lay one log in the center.
The house is ready, the windows and doors are installed, the roof is covered, but we need to finally delimit the internal and external spaces. To do this, all the cracks in the log house are caulked with tow. This process is carried out using an ordinary knife. Any finishing is fixed on top, but in the first 3 years it is better to use something simple, because... you need to watch the seams.
Expanded clay serves as insulation for the floor, but you can use any other insulation if desired. For expanded clay, waterproofing is initially laid on the ground, which will extend onto the walls, then there is a layer of insulation, and then waterproofing again, but with a downward bend. A screed is formed on top.
The stove is placed indoors at a distance of at least 15 cm from the walls, but it is better in the old traditions in the center of the room. This precaution will allow you not to think about possible fires.
Before building a log house from round timber, you need to know not only the quality of the wood, but also the cutting time.
To be sure of quality, it is better to take the simplest round timber from an axe, which does not undergo special processing with a tool.
It will last for several centuries if done correctly.
Refusing the services of professionals in the field of wooden house construction in part professional drafting drawings, be it a diagram of a log house for a bathhouse or a residential building, an ignorant customer does not understand how this can turn against him. The lesser evil will be the construction stretching out for years due to constant alterations. The worst is even scary to imagine.
Why might this happen? All due to the basic inability to read drawings and working diagrams, which are provided to the customer complete with the finished log house.
The essence of the working scheme
The rafter system receives special attention. And the most important! The assembly diagram of a log house is a document confirmed construction organization
If it suddenly happens that you have to defend your case in court, then the design of the house and the drawings of its assembly will be the main evidence. Therefore, before refusing the services of specialists, you should think about whether this will end in tears.
Now, having agreed that the drawing is important, the customer still will not be able to understand where to start dancing, that is, building. To do this, when purchasing a house kit, he is given a log house assembly diagram, which describes all stages of construction from the foundation to the rafter system.
So, let's look at them:
By agreement, larch can be used as the material for the first circle - it has earned universal approval as a material that practically does not interact with dampness. The diagram clearly indicates the sequence in which the elements are connected.
Of course, for a fee, but it's worth it. You can't hope for chance. The assembly manual will also offer recommended fasteners, since no screws or nails can act in this capacity.
Here are the main aspects of the content of diagrams and drawings. For some, this will be just a set of papers, but it’s worth understanding at least one of them in order to understand how to properly build your own house. Besides, it's interesting.
Here are common mistakes in reading drawings of a finished log house or house kit:
One thing can be said about what will happen if you neglect to read drawings and diagrams - nothing good. In the end, it is in the interests of the customer to build a house for his family, without delaying installation and doing everything right.
If, after all, a home-grown master does not heed the advice described above, then it is stupid to blame the manufacturer later - they will simply wash their hands when it becomes clear that the customer does not need their services. Well, if he still can’t cope with the job and decides to leave everything to the specialists, then the work will become more expensive. Remember this.
It is believed that log baths are the best, because wood can breathe, due to which there is a natural regulation of humidity and temperature. But in relation to baths, these and some other properties of wood create quite a lot of problems.
There is an opinion that a log house made of logs costs less than the same one made from profiled timber (it is better processed than regular timber and has locks that reduce the risk of cracks). If you look at the cost of one cubic meter of material, then this is true. But for the same project you will need much more logs than timber. If you take a 200 mm beam, then the wall thickness will be 200 mm and the height of the crown will be 200 mm. And if you take logs with a diameter of 200 mm, then a groove 10-12 cm wide is selected in it. And the thickness of the wall at the junction of two logs will be this 10-12 cm. And the height of the crown will not be 200 mm, but 100-120 mm. This is where the difference in the required volumes when purchasing emerges. Add the labor-intensive nature of the work, and it will immediately become clear why log cabins are often built from timber. If we talk about, then the dimensions in it should coincide to within a few millimeters. With such material, work progresses quickly: just the bowls are cut (most often with a chain saw), the insulation is laid and a new crown is placed.
When constructing a log house, a longitudinal groove is cut out in a log to “join” it with another
Another important fact: working with timber is easier. Especially with a profiled one. It has absolutely the same dimensions (if it is made well) and folds together without problems. And with a log, if it is not rounded, there is more than enough fuss.
The first thing you need to know is that a log house made of logs or timber (except laminated veneer lumber) must remain under the roof for at least 8 of the driest months. Most often they put up a bathhouse in December, Finishing work begin in August. But only if these are really dry months and they are in a hurry to start the sauna. If there is no rush, it is better to wait one and a half to two years.
There will be enough work for the drying time. After installation, the logs must be treated with solvent-based antiseptics. For example, Tikkuril has, and Teknos has Woodex Base. They will protect the wood from fungi and blueing. To prevent them from being torn during drying, the ends of the logs are coated with another composition from the same Teknos or its equivalent.
After the wood dries, the log is sanded, removing the bacterial treatment. This operation opens the pores of the wood, allowing it to be painted with high quality. Oil-wax is most often used to paint a log house. These funds also contain coloring pigment, which gives shade to the wood. Therefore, in addition to protective properties, they also perform a decorative function.
It's no secret that even in a well-made log house there will be gaps: it is impossible to cut out a bowl so that it perfectly follows the shape of the log. Still, some gaps remain. Moreover, during the drying process, they increase, and cracks also appear and deepen.
All these cracks are sealed - caulked. For this purpose they use a tool similar to a small flat spatula and a hammer. Moss or tow is placed in the cracks. Using caulk, tuck the tow into the crack, compacting it by tapping on the handle.
If the frame was assembled with moss (dried moss is laid between the crowns for compaction), then its ends hang out of the cracks. To prevent birds from snatching it away, it is tucked inside immediately after installation. There is no need to compact or be zealous. The purpose of this treatment is only to remove hanging ends. The caulking itself is carried out later - after six to seven months.
If the log house is placed on a jute tape or tow, the first caulking is carried out after the initial shrinkage of the log house - after six months. After this, you can install windows and doors in the log house. Secondary caulking will be needed in about a year. It usually requires less time and materials than the first time.
In general, as they say, a log house “drives” all its life. Therefore, it needs to be inspected periodically and the cracks sealed. In addition to the fact that the old ones become wider, the tow is taken away for birds’ nests. You have to periodically update the finish. But this is the case if the outside of the log house is not finished with anything.
Owners have quite a lot of problems. wooden baths and during operation: high humidity stimulate the development of various diseases and fungi. Treat wood with some strong chemicals chemicals Few agree: you can treat yourself at the same time. Therefore, even during construction, it is necessary to take all possible measures to ensure good ventilation:
In addition, after each visit to the bathhouse, it is necessary to create conditions for drying the entire room. This is not difficult to do: after steaming, throw an armful of firewood into the stove and open the windows and doors. Additional heat from the steam with a draft will dry the bath well.
The wooden bathhouse also has one more enemy: woodworms. If in the washing room and rest room the lining is most often treated against these pests with impregnations, then in the steam room they prefer to install it “as is”. If steamed at temperatures above 60°C, the larvae do not survive and there are no problems. But the Russian steam room provides for temperatures below this threshold. Then, if you notice traces of woodworms in the trim or on the shelf, you need to fry them. Heat the sauna “dry”, and raise the temperature to at least 80-90°C and hold it for at least an hour or two. It is necessary to ensure that the inside of the wood is warmer than 60°C. Then there is a chance to get rid of both adults and larvae without harming the wood.
If the problems are still local - there are few places where the larvae emerge, you can get by with a little blood: warm up the damaged areas. This can be done using construction hair dryer. Just don’t set the temperature too high—no higher than 150°C—even without charring, the wood can get a thermal burn and then quickly collapse. And you won’t understand why. So, set the temperature and warm up the beetle exit points (holes) and surrounding areas.
The peculiarities and difficulties of construction are not all the pitfalls. Saunas made of logs (and timber too) need to be heated longer than aerated concrete ones. The point is the high heat capacity of wood. Until it warms up, the air will not begin to heat up. But coming from the heated walls radiant heat It feels much more pleasant and is better perceived by our body, warming it to a greater depth.
But the fact remains: to prepare a steam room in wooden bath it will take more time and wood (all other things being equal). If we talk about a log bathhouse in which it stands, then the preparation time generally requires at least 3-5 hours. Sometimes more, sometimes less - depends on the wood, design and power of the stove. Moreover, in order for the temperature background to level out, several more hours must pass after the desired degree of heating is achieved. The owners of such baths even have a special term: the bath is standing. Total time preparation - 6-8 hours. Few city dwellers have such a reserve of time (and patience).
One point: in such baths there is usually no special insulation of the walls of the steam room. The ceiling can still be insulated, and even then, rather traditional methods- clay, sawdust, expanded clay. To warm up such a steam room metal stove it must be taken with a good reserve of power. But then it’s difficult to keep the temperature within the standards of a Russian bath - at 50-60°C.
At self-construction bath room Various building materials are used. Their choice is most often determined by one's own desire, which does not contradict the available material resources. The most popular building materials for construction are brick and concrete.
IN Lately most resort to using cinder blocks. But the priority for the construction of a real Russian bathhouse has always been wooden beams or logs. They have long been famous for the production of substances beneficial to the body that are mixed with steam. Making a log bathhouse with your own hands is a task that almost anyone can do. After all, building a bathhouse from wood beams is much easier than from any other building materials.
Materials, tools and accessories that will be needed to build a bathhouse:
First, you need to decide which building material will be used as the basis for the structure. Simple and rounded logs will require more experience during the construction of a bathhouse. Make a competent log house from wooden beam experienced builder. In this case, it is enough to follow the instructions described below. In this case, you don’t even need the help of a qualified specialist.
Before construction work First of all, you should choose high-quality wood, because the durability of the room depends on it, not to mention the ease of its maintenance. But choosing a good building material does not guarantee of proper quality, because it needs to be properly processed and prepared for use.
If you decide to make a log house from logs, it is advisable to extract them in the winter. It is not recommended to use young wood. In addition, after cutting down the tree, it is best to let it dry for 30-40 days. The logs must rest exactly in the same form in which they were cut down. It is necessary to start processing after the expiration of the period allotted for drying the logs.
Making beams yourself will require careful processing of the logs. First of all, you need to do a complete cleaning of the bark. In order to avoid cracks that may form when the bark is removed, it is necessary to leave strips at both ends of the log 15 cm wide.
Storing wood has some nuances that need to be taken into account:
An important process is the selection of logs for the manufacture of a log house.
During sorting, you need to keep only high-quality wood, simultaneously rejecting fragile and unreliable logs.
Inspect the building material being prepared for damage and cracks. If a bath house is built from such logs, it may collapse even at the construction stage, not to mention wear and tear during further use.
Pay attention to small dark blue spots. Their presence indicates that the process of rotting from the inside has begun, which is caused by fungal invasion. You should not take risks and use such logs; it is best to set them aside for heating a sauna stove.
The same should be done with wood that has been eaten from the inside by insects. It will be necessary to ensure that the affected and high-quality logs are kept away from each other, otherwise the infection may spread and damage suitable building materials.
The sauna log used to build the premises must have a smooth and uniform surface. This will save you from problems when laying logs during the construction of the structure. You should not immediately mix them with firewood, since such logs will still be useful for making small parts for doors and window openings, as well as for floors and ceilings.
In the process of constructing a log house, the type of trees that are used as building materials is also important. The lower level is best laid primarily from larch, and subsequent levels can be laid from cedar, pine and spruce logs. This is due to the increased resistance of larch to natural influences; it is more durable and tends to harden over time.
The walls of the bathhouse are more protected from earth moisture, but they require increased thermal insulation properties, so coniferous trees are best choice for their construction. In addition, they highlight useful human body substances, well saturated with steam.
The main convenience of constructing a room for a bathhouse is laying the beams directly on the foundation. This significantly simplifies and shortens construction time.
There are 2 methods of laying a foundation for a log bathhouse: strip and columnar.
The tape method involves arranging formwork along the edges of the entire area of the proposed building, which is subsequently poured concrete mortar. The level of foundation construction must be at least 0.5 m from the ground. This will help protect the lower level of the log house from moisture and rotting in the future.
The internal area of the base is filled with crushed stone or sand in the form of small strips. Laying the lower level of beams can be carried out only after the concrete solution has completely hardened, that is, after 15-20 days.
The columnar method is more common. In this case, at the corners and edges of the area, support pillars on brick base. The same pillars must be installed indoors, namely in places where there will be load-bearing walls. The interval between the pillars should be at least 150 cm. In some situations, you can expand it to 200 cm, but no more. All support pillars must be reinforced with concrete mortar at the base.
Regardless of the method of laying the foundation, it will need to be strengthened with reinforcement, which increases the reliability and stability of the lower level of the frame.
The main element of ensuring the durability of a structure is waterproofing. For this reason, it is necessary to lay waterproofing material in 2 layers. It is located between the base of the building and the lower level of the log house. First of all, the foundation must be covered with liquid bitumen, on which roofing material is laid. Once the structure has hardened, this procedure must be repeated.
The first level of beams is laid along the entire perimeter of the foundation base. First of all, you need to equip the base with slats that have been pre-treated with protective mixtures. Their thickness should be no more than 1.5 cm, they are placed at intervals of 25-30 cm.
Reiki provide reliable protection from moisture and rotting of the lower level of the log house, increasing the durability of the structure. The empty cavity between the slats is filled with heat-insulating material.
The main factor in laying the lower level of a log house is the almost perfect uniformity of building materials, so it’s worth choosing the most smooth beams. Otherwise, further construction of the building may cause many unwanted problems that will require extra costs time and effort to correct them. Uniformity should be measured with a building level; assessing the suitability of beams by eye is unacceptable.
For the lower level, you need to make beams taking into account the fact that they will be used as supports, that is, during processing you will need to select the thickest and most durable ones. Common size the log house for the lower level is 20 cm in diameter. The remaining bars must have a diameter of at least 15 cm. The length is selected based on the expected area of the room, and all bars must be the same size.
The bathhouse frame should not be laid too tightly, since in the future the beams will settle and compact naturally. There is no need to consolidate the basic level at all. As time passes, it will become denser high pressure upper level bars. This also makes it possible to update the lower level without forcibly dismantling the external walls.
At the corner points of connection of the beams, it is necessary to make special notches, which are designed to ensure the reliability of the structure. This process will require precise measurements, which are considered at the log processing stage. Having made the cuts correctly, you need to connect the beams into single design and fill the remaining cavity thermal insulation material between the foundation and the lower level.
The main level of the log house must be treated with protective mixtures on all sides, especially in places adjacent to the foundation. In addition to protective mixtures, it is recommended to apply slightly thickened technical oil to the bars.
After laying the lower level, you can move on to arranging the upper rows.
There are a number of methods for strengthening beams at the ends, but the most popular and in a simple way is cutting out notches.
Logs with excess length require cutting out notches in these places. There are 2 types of notches: one-sided and two-sided. The 1st type is made on the principle of cutting an ordinary bowl into half a tree, and the 2nd is due to cutting out notches different sizes at both ends, that is, in the fat tail or in the okhryap.
If there is no excess, corner cuts are made in the main part of the beams. In this case, you can choose the type of reinforcement without the presence of insert elements (into a paw or into a tenon). If the connection still implies their presence, then you need to use the half-tree method on an insert tenon. The simplest cutting method is the claw method, which will require less time and effort from the builder to arrange the cuts.
Choosing the most suitable method corner mount, you need to accurately measure all the logs, on the basis of which a template for cutting will be created. After this, you can begin processing the beams. First of all, it is necessary to make transverse cuts to half the diameter of the beams. Following this, you can cut out longitudinal bevels. It is worth considering that processing larch logs is much more difficult, since this species has a high density.
The walls of the bathhouse are erected in a certain sequence. The bars are placed and trimmed using building level and strengthened at the ends. The fastening elements are special wooden dowels or iron pins, which must be driven into the openings provided for them. The size of the openings must match the diameter of the fastening elements.
The interval between openings should be 1-1.5 m. The beams must be drilled through and up to half of the underlying log. Then you need to set aside the upper beam and hammer a pin into the opening of the lower one, the length of which is equal to the height of 2 logs. Before placing the top beam, you will need to lay insulation.
This method is used to lay all other rows, while the top 2 rows do not need to be strengthened. In the future, the upper beams will need to be removed to install the ceiling.
When designing a bathhouse, it is necessary to take into account the placement of windows and doors. During the construction of the building, small gaps are left in the marked places, which are subsequently cut out, forming openings of the required size.
Upon completion of the construction of the sauna log house, it is necessary to prepare the building for the subsidence period, which lasts about 6 months. To do this, you need to lay 4-5 cm thick boards on the top rows of the log house, which are covered with slate.
