The article will be useful to those who plan to independently complete the interior decoration of bath rooms. Detailed step by step instructions with photos will help to produce cladding and cladding with high quality and in compliance with construction technologies.
A classic Russian bathhouse necessarily contains such rooms as:
If the area allows, modern buildings will be equipped with a separate recreation room, a billiard room, a swimming pool, a veranda, a barbecue area and even a full kitchen.
Despite fashion trends, the basic requirements for a bath remain unchanged:
The functionality of bath rooms largely depends on the correct finishing. Even if your structure is built from rounded logs, and the walls from the inside look beautiful and aesthetically pleasing, it is recommended to carry out interior finishing of the bathhouse, as this will significantly extend its service life.
Each room has a number of features that must be taken into account when choosing materials and cladding methods.
When decorating a steam room, the following nuances must be taken into account:
A universal cladding option for a steam room is a cladding board, which must have the following properties:
Of all the variety of linings, panels made of linden, aspen, cedar or African abashi wood are suitable for use in a steam room. When choosing a cladding material, pay attention to the quality of the wood - well-dried and hewn, without knots or nicks on the surface, it will serve reliably for many years.
The lining in the steam room is not treated with varnish, paint or antiseptic. These substances are toxic and, when heated, can negate all the benefits of bath procedures.
Before covering The cheapest material for these purposes is mineral wool, which is what is most often used for finishing. Often, insulation such as basalt wool is used. It is more durable, as it is not subject to damage from high temperatures. However, cork agglomerate is considered the best insulation for baths. It is anti-allergenic, not susceptible to rotting, burning and fungus.
The floor in the steam room is made warm, non-slippery and pleasant for walking with bare feet.
In the washing department, you usually not only rinse your body; here you can relax after a hot steam room, have a relaxing massage, or apply products to care for your face, body, or hair. The convenience of the premises for carrying out various procedures must be taken care of already at the stage of construction and subsequent finishing.
The washing area is faced with either ceramic tiles or wood. Moreover, if deciduous varieties of lining were used in the steam room, then in the washing room they give preference to coniferous species - larch, spruce or pine. The resin they contain has moisture-repellent properties and protects materials from rotting.
Particular attention is paid to the floor; it should not be slippery or cold. It is preferable to fill the base in the washing room with concrete, on which tiles are laid. Although it is also possible wooden version floor.
To prevent slipping on a wet surface, it is recommended to lay the flooring on the tiles in the form of removable wooden logs. They should be dried after completing the bath procedures.
Wood flooring on tiled floor- photo
Along with the washing room and steam room, in the rest bath rooms saved high humidity air. Here you can use both deciduous and conifers wood for finishing. The following materials are also used:
A combination of different types of finishes is common in such rooms, for example, wooden lining, tiles and natural stone.
porcelain tiles
During operation, the ceiling is exposed aggressive influence hot steam and high humidity. It is important to protect the floors with vapor and heat insulation to prevent damage to the materials. Aluminum foil or a construction membrane is often used for these purposes. They are equally effective at ensuring they are sealed.
For vapor barrier, do not use foil with cotton wool glued on it. It is much thinner and less convenient when carrying out cladding work. Also, do not use foil with polypropylene foam attached. It is toxic when heated, so it is not suitable for use in bath rooms.
It is important to carefully seal all joints with aluminum tape. If during the process of attaching the material you inadvertently damaged it, immediately seal this place, then you may forget to do this and the vapor barrier will be damaged.
In the steam room you need to lay out a hole for the pipe. It is equipped with a box made of thin sheet of stainless steel, which is filled with expanded clay.
The ceiling above the stove is additionally insulated with a steel sheet, which protects the wood from excessive heat.
Step 1. Slats with a cross-section of 2*4 cm are sewn onto the ceiling with a lathing pitch of 40-45 cm. In the places where the frame is attached, it is necessary to provide gaps for ventilation of at least 10 mm.
Step 2. The slats are placed horizontally on the walls, the direction is perpendicular to the lining.
Step 3. Wooden panels begin to be attached from one of the walls. The groove of the first plank is directed outward and the tenon of the next one is driven into it. It can be the other way around, there is no fundamental difference.
On a note! When installing, use pads and a mallet to avoid damaging the material.
Step 4. The planks can be fixed with special clamps; they are attached to the rail with nails or screws. But the simplest and most convenient way is to use a construction stapler. It reliably fixes the lining and significantly reduces installation time.
Step 5. Gaps from the walls of 2-2.5 cm are left on the sides. This provides additional ventilation and prevents deformation of the finishing material. The gaps are subsequently hidden by the baseboard.
The first and final panels are nailed with nails with a small head. They are hammered in at an angle, the head is completely driven into the wood using a hammer.
It is important to ensure the verticality of the slats, which is checked after installing each panel using a level. Instead, you can use a simple construction meter. IN in this case you measure the distance from the wall to the edge installed panels on one side and the other.
If there is a discrepancy in measurements, the lining is carefully tapped to the required level. To do this, use a small piece of the same panel, which is inserted into the groove and a mallet (or hammer).
The panels are also trimmed in the following way: a wooden overlay is fixed, under which a pointed sliver is carefully hammered.
The walls in the steam room are decorated with wood. In other rooms you can use tiles or stone.
Basic installation equipment wood panels on walls is no different from attaching them to the ceiling.
Step 1. We fill it horizontally along the entire perimeter thick timber– every 80-100 cm.
Step 2. We lay insulation from mineral wool. We cut the insulation to the required sizes with a sharp knife. We lay it between the beams without compacting it.
Step 3. We lay a vapor barrier and carefully seal all joints with aluminum tape.
Note! Carefully monitor the quality of insulation in the corners.
Step 4. To provide a ventilation gap, we stuff the spacer strip. Sheathing is always performed at an angle of 90 degrees to the lining strips. Thus, if you plan to place the panels vertically, the sheathing is nailed horizontally.
First, frame vertical slats are installed at the corners of the wall, the accuracy of their fastening is controlled by a plumb line. To evenly arrange the horizontal slats, you can pull the cords at the top and bottom of the frame slats, that is, near the floor and above the ceiling.
The next strip is inserted after 40-50 cm, and then the remaining strips are attached around the perimeter, with the same step. Constantly check the evenness of the installation with a level or plumb line.
Step 5. Doors and windows are lined with separate bars.
Step 6. Let's start attaching the panels.
When covering walls in bath rooms, it is recommended to mount the lining vertically, starting from one of the corners. This will ensure that moisture quickly drains onto the floor, without trapping it in the grooves of the panels.
If you decide to do horizontal finishing, then lay the boards with the tongue facing up so that moisture does not accumulate in the grooves. With this option, start fastening the boards from the ceiling, and not from the floor. The lathing is nailed vertically.
Wooden panels are fastened using clamps, regular nails, or a construction stapler. When using nails or self-tapping screws, they should be inserted at an angle of 45 degrees, with the head completely buried in the wood.
Be sure to leave 2-3 cm gaps when attaching the lining from the ceiling and floor for ventilation.
Often the lining has to be trimmed. For these purposes, use a saw with small teeth or an electric jigsaw.
Before attaching the last batten, it is cut to the required size and attached to the sheathing. On the first panel of the next wall, the ridge is cut off and installed flush against the last batten of the first wall. Corner trimming requires special precision. The main thing here is to determine the required angle and draw a cut line before sawing. Adjacent angles The panels should fit end to end, without gaps.
vapor barrier
Special attention must be paid to insulating the stove from the wall. For these purposes, you can use one of the following options:
Often the walls in the washing department or in rest rooms are finished with moisture-resistant ceramic tiles. It is made from environmentally friendly, non-toxic materials that are safe for health when heated, do not absorb moisture and give a beautiful and modern look to the room.
Step-by-step installation instructions tiles on the walls in the bathhouse includes the preparatory stage and cladding.
If the walls are brick or cinder block, then they are cleaned of dirt and dust, rough plastering is done, and unevenness is leveled with mortar.
Wooden walls are covered with waterproofing material - roofing felt or roofing felt. It is nailed down with a construction stapler, and a fine mesh net is sewn on top. The preparatory work is completed by applying cement mortar, which completely covers the metal mesh.
A perfectly even wooden beam is nailed at the floor level, from which the final finishing will begin. You can use a metal UD profile, which is mounted level along the wall.
To control vertical rows, use a regular plumb line or laser level.
To attach the tiles, you can use either a self-prepared solution of cement and sand (in a ratio of 1/5) or ready-made glue. It is more convenient to use industrial glue intended for baths; it can withstand large temperature changes and high humidity.
Before starting work, the tiles are immersed in a container of water and left until all the air comes out of it. This will provide better adhesion to the solution.
Start facing from below, from the attached level.
It is important to lay out the first row perfectly evenly, since the quality of all subsequent cladding will depend on it.
Using a notched trowel, apply the adhesive to the back of the tile or directly to the wall. The tile is pressed against the wall, the glue should protrude slightly beyond its edges. To ensure that the square sits perfectly straight, align it with a rubber hammer.
Keep an eye on the gap between the rows of tiles; it should be the same along the entire length and height. To do this, when adjacent rows are laid out, plastic crosses are placed in the gaps in the corners of the tiles.
After 2 days the glue will dry completely and you can remove the level.
The gaps between the rows are filled with grout, which matches the color of the cladding. It dries in 11-12 hours.
The final stage is cleaning the walls from grout residues and other contaminants. The tiles are thoroughly washed and wiped dry.
Tiles create a lot of space for creative expression. It can be laid out in even rows, offset or diagonally. For beginners, the simplest and fastest option is recommended, when the squares are located exactly on top of each other.
The running drawing looks like this.
Laying tiles in a “running start”
Facing diagonally.
To create complex combinations of tiles of different colors, it is recommended to first lay out a pattern on the floor, then outline a diagram on the wall, and only then proceed with finishing.
heat resistant tile adhesive
Heat-resistant terracotta tiles are a popular solution in bath rooms. It is moisture-resistant and durable, can withstand high temperatures and allows you to create an original and beautiful wall design.
The technology for laying it is somewhat different from facing conventional thin ceramic tiles. Terracotta is a heavier material and requires special glue or mastic.
Below are step-by-step instructions for tiling with terracotta flagstone.
Be careful when handling the gun. If mastic does get on the decorative surface, do not try to wipe it off immediately. Wait 2 hours, then scrape off the dried compound without rubbing it.
If the floor is made of wood, then it does not require any additional finishing.
Start facing from the corner. Unlike wall decoration, an ideal horizon is not created on the floor, i.e. the tile is located at a slight slope towards the drain hole.
Before applying the solution, mark the location of the squares on the floor using a level.
Photo - laying tiles on the floor
On independent finishing Baths take a lot of effort and time. It is necessary to solve a number of important problems - what material to choose, how to attach it correctly, how to ensure safety during operation and create a cozy and harmonious atmosphere in the premises. The recommendations and step-by-step instructions given in the article will help you cope with the task and, after completing all the work, enjoy a good and complete rest during bath procedures.
Tile on the floor - photo
Finishing– the final stage of construction. It is incorrect to include insulation work in it. When it comes to tiling floors, walls, ceilings, installing doors and windows, painting surfaces, this can be called finishing. We need to somehow define the terms if we want mutual understanding.
This article will focus mainly on interior decoration steam rooms, but the finishing will also be partially affected washing If the site has topical articles that address a particular issue on the subject, read it, you’ll probably find it there helpful information, and for your convenience we have provided links.
If we're talking about O finishing options for finishing a steam room in a bathhouse, then it would be worthwhile to somehow classify them and talk about them from different points of view. That is, we can talk separately about floors, walls, ceilings, doors and windows, or we can talk about materials. This is what we will try to cover below.
In a paired room, the floor comes in three versions:
The latter option is not intended at all for walking on it with bare feet, but people also walk on this floor in rubber slippers or on ladders. We mention it here only for the sake of completeness. Although, if you paint it with something waterproof... In general, be that as it may, there are three working options for installing floors in the steam room. Wooden floor can be torrential or dry, You can read about the features of both options.
We will not touch on how to make this or that floor, we are only interested in what it is and what it looks like in the end.
poured wood floor- These are boards fixed to joists without joining. The gap between adjacent boards is up to 1 cm.
Dry floor, on the contrary, is a very tightly joined boards, most often tongue and groove.
Both floors can be painted after completion of installation work either acrylic varnish , or impregnation for sauna floors. This will make the floorboards water-repellent and the floor itself more durable.
Tile is also fully present in the steam room, because no one wants to change the floors every 5-7 years, as is the case with the pouring option, and a dry floor can also deteriorate - it’s still wood, and it’s not particularly friendly with water (except species such as larch).
IMPORTANT! The main argument against tile floors is that they can cause you to slip. But there are enough tiles on sale that have a rough surface that prevents slipping.
Concrete… If the screed is made of high-quality concrete, then water will not harm it for a very long time. But it will also look as if the finishing of the steam room in the bathhouse was left halfway. To give it some finality, we would advise painting it with paint for concrete pools - everything will somehow be prettier.
It's not in vain that we united walls and ceiling into the same category - they are usually made from the same material.
If regarding the floors there was still some variability in the choice of material for finishing them in the steam room, then for the walls and ceiling in a standard bath there is only one material - tree. And it is right. Firstly, tradition, secondly, useful, thirdly, pleasant and beautiful.
But in general, the design of a steam room in a bathhouse, if we talk about walls and ceilings, comes down to choice linings. True, some leave the walls made of timber or logs unsealed, but this is only if the timber or logs are thick enough or the winters are moderately frosty, which is why it is not cold in the steam room.
But There are a lot of types of lining, so that those who do not want the standard option have plenty to choose from.
ATTENTION! To begin with, let us clarify that imitation timber and blockhouse (imitation log house) are also types of lining. After all, this word essentially means just a profiled board, and it can have many different profiles.
euro and non-euro
First of all, it varies tongue-and-groove connection design. Based on the differences between them, such types of linings as standard (according to Soviet GOST), eurolining, and “American” are built.
Secondly, they may differ profile front side slats. The presence and absence of chamfers, the degree of rounding, various protrusions and depressions create all the variety of surfaces finished with these boards.
It is also worth taking into account the presence or absence of ventilation grooves on back side lamella. They were not included in the Soviet standard, but they are needed, and the eurolining has them.
ADVICE! For those who want to creatively approach the interior decoration of a steam room in a bathhouse, we can recommend combining several different profiles, for example, smooth with or without a chamfer and some of the carved profiles.
You can read more about the types of lining and cladding methods in this.
Of course, there is also finishing around the stove in the steam room of the bathhouse, and it is made, in particular, from tiles - ceramic or natural stone. But we will talk about this in a separate chapter below.
For doors and windows, the most important thing concerns not so much the design as the right choice wood
After all, you can’t put a plastic door in a steam room, unless glass, which are made for a sauna, of course (that is, with a healthy gap under the door needed for ventilation of the sauna). But if you file the box, you can put glass door and in the Russian bathhouse. And you won't have problems closing the doors.
But if the door is made of wood, then high humidity will affect it primarily change in wood volume, that is, it will change the dimensions of the doors. And they will periodically not fit into the opening.
To avoid such problems, you need to choose a tree that is least deformed by moisture. And it's very affordable - it's a common Linden. By the way, it is worth making not only doors, but also shelves from it, and some people will prefer linden lining. The properties of wood will be discussed below.
Since buildings are made of different materials, the owners are interested in whether there is any difference in how to decorate the steam room in the bathhouse, say, from brick or foam concrete. Basically, there are no differences even at the level of construction of the insulating pie, and the finishing does not depend on what the walls of your bathhouse are made of.
However, options do exist.
timber or log- a material that in itself has excellent decorative qualities, so there is no point in hiding it under the skin, unless your area is in the Arctic cold, that is, if the thickness of the log or beam is enough to keep warm.
In this case, the owner's main concern will be insulation of joints between logs or beams, them sealing(which we’ll talk about separately). In addition, finishing works include protection log walls from various misfortunes (fire, water, insects, fungi and bacteria) and identification decorative properties wood - both are done using impregnation
BUT! In the steam room, protective measures are limited to antiseptic on the lower rims and impregnation for the walls as a whole, which will protect them from water.
A well-sanded log has a beautiful “moire” pattern, which can be made more visible with the help of varnish or impregnation. There is a site on our website that talks about paints and varnishes that are acceptable for processing steam rooms.
The finishing of a steam room in a bathhouse built from the materials listed in the title will in the vast majority of cases be reduced to cladding clapboard. This is the easiest way to make the interior “wooden”. In addition, lining is a convenient and affordable material, and the difference in profiles gives the owner the freedom to choose according to his tastes.
Baths not built from wood are accepted insulate. In this article we will not describe the thermal insulation pie - you can read about it in this one on our website. However, let's spoil it: methods of thermal insulation finishing of a steam room in a bathhouse made of aerated concrete, foam concrete, etc. are the same. And the lining is the final stage of this finishing.
The lining is attached to the counter-lattice. There are several ways to attach it inconspicuously. Previously, this was most often done with finishing nails through a groove, but this is hard work, especially when compared with the modern method of fastening to staples or nails using a pneumatic gun through clamps. As an option, you can attach it to self-tapping screws.
IMPORTANT! Clippers do not replace fastening with nails or staples, they only simplify it. A nice and convenient addition.
Watch the video, which clearly demonstrates the method of fastening the lining using clamps:
Regarding the finishing of the steam room with clapboard, it is worth saying one more thing: there are two mounting options - vertical And horizontal. Accordingly, the counter-lattice should go in a perpendicular direction.
Since we are talking about a humid and hot room, it is worth noting that vertical fastening of the lining is not optimal. Each individual lamella with this arrangement is moistened unevenly, which leads to stress inside the wood. In the future it may crack.
In the same time horizontal fastening makes the lamellas moisturized more evenly. The main thing is not to forget when fastening that the groove should be on top, and the tenon should enter it from below. Then water will not flow into the lock.
In addition to the above, the described types of lining installation also have this feature: vertical fastening visually makes the room appear higher and the horizontal one lower.
Let's briefly look at the materials suitable for finishing bath sinks and steam rooms.
In the photo: finishing the steam room of a bathhouse with wood (lining)
For flooring, you can use more resistant species, for example, larch. Conifers should not be used because of the resin they contain, which flows out when the temperature rises. But on the floor the temperature is usually low, so there are no restrictions.
However, it is worth saying that linden trees And aspen low resistance to rotting and biocontamination (for example, fungi). Therefore, we still recommend additionally protecting surfaces made of this wood with impregnations and varnishes.
IN car wash there is no point in using wood unless it is design solution. In this case, it is worth recommending conifers– they are more resistant to water.
An option for decorating a steam room in a bathhouse is stone tiles. Of course, we are talking only about partial finishing, for example, near the stove (more on that below).
What types of stone are best suited for finishing walls in a steam room? You will be surprised, but there are practically no restrictions here th - the main thing is that it is not rock salt, for example. But pink Himalayan salt is often used as interior decoration. Of course, it will not dissolve as quickly as table salt in a pot of soup, but its composition is the same as salt in a salt shaker.
The wall behind the stove, of course, heats up, but the stones are quite capable of withstanding such temperatures without harming themselves. But the situation will change if you decide to cover the stove with the same stone. The temperatures there are somewhat different. And it’s worth focusing at least on those stones in which ready-made stoves are sold, for example, soapstone .
As an option, you can decorate part of the steam room not with smooth tiles, but with chopped pebbles or cobblestones, which are mounted on the solution with the convex side up. It turns out to be quite a nice decor. As you can see, even street cobblestones can come in handy.
On the picture: interior decoration steam rooms, baths with stones around the stove
IN car wash You can use stone, but this is rarely done, because it is easier and cheaper to cover the walls and floor with ready-made ceramic tiles.
The tiles in the steam room are used either on the floor or on the wall behind the stove. As for the floor, rough tiles behave best here, for example, Metlakhskaya In general, it can be recommended for wet areas. But it is better not to consider all varieties of smooth glazed tiles as a covering for the floor of a steam room.
IN washing It is also better to use rough tiles on the floor, and for the walls... here, in general, you can see more clearly how sober visitors will wash in your washroom. If not particularly so, then give up smooth tiles there too, eliminating unnecessary opportunities for injury.
In the photo: finishing the shower room of the bathhouse with tiles
This is worth a special mention finishing material, How sealant for a steam room in a bathhouse.
Sealants in a steam room can only be used in two cases: if it log sauna and needs to seal the joints between the logs, as well as seal the cracks in the logs themselves, and the second option is to seal the joints, for example, foam glass, if it is used as heat insulator.
In the first case, we can recommend special sealants for wood that have a certain elasticity, because wood tends to constantly change volume under the influence of moisture. In addition, it is worth asking the sellers which wood sealants can withstand steam room temperatures well (name the numbers at which you are used to steaming).
We came across a report from one bathhouse owner in which he praised the wood sealant Perma-Chink, which he used for seams and Check Mate for sealing cracks. However, we cannot say with certainty that this was not promotional material.
As for the sealant for the heat insulator, then you need to take silicone without impurities, for example Ottoseal S 73.
The space around the stove needs special finishing for the reason that the proximity of the hot stove to the combustible material of the walls (the same lining) can lead to fire.
Fireproof board for finishing walls when installing a sauna stove
Therefore, thermal insulating material is usually placed on the wall, for example, mineralite or superizol(mounting on ceramic bushings is desirable). A stainless steel sheet can be attached to reflect heat.
If the walls are not made of wood, you can protect them with heat resistant tiles Since tiles are used for lining stoves and fireplaces, you can find many varieties on sale, from which the seller will select the right one for you.
Of course, stove tiles are more than suitable for wall decoration, but they can be more expensive, so it’s worth measuring the heating temperature of an object located at the same distance that will separate your stove from the wall.
And one more thing - you need to take into account that in the bathhouses on your personal plot in winter, if not used for a long time, the temperature can be below zero.
Some types of tiles are not intended for sudden changes in temperature when heating a bath - this issue should also be clarified with the seller. If you choose the wrong tile, it will crumble.
Finishing the steam room of the bath
Interior decoration of the steam room and washing room together
Finishing the steam room like a sauna inside
Antique finishing of baths and steam rooms
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We have many other interesting and informative materials devoted to a variety of issues related to the bathhouse. We recommend using it to search for material of interest.
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High-quality finishing of a bathhouse with your own hands is only possible if you use suitable materials, as well as subject to the correct sequence of work.
There are no special tricks in the process, but errors in installation still occur quite often. So that you can avoid unpleasant consequences such errors, we will try to provide a fairly detailed algorithm of operation.
Before finishing the bathhouse with our own hands, we must purchase everything we need. Therefore, even before installation activities begin, it is necessary to decide what materials will be used. The range here is very extensive, so in this article we will consider the most effective option from our point of view.
The interior decoration of the walls of the bathhouse should provide not only a beautiful appearance of the premises. It is very important that the walls do not allow heat to pass through, and that moisture does not get inside the enclosing structures. Based on this, we will select all the details of our finishing.
We will need:
Advice!
When choosing wood, you need to pay attention to the resin content.
For example, no matter how attractive the price of a pine board may be, it cannot be used for our purposes: as soon as we heat the bathhouse, the tree will immediately begin to “cry.”
In addition, we will need fasteners for all these materials, as well as finishing parts - baseboards, moldings, etc. It is desirable that these parts be made of the same wood as the lining itself: this way they will expand more evenly when heated, and we will avoid the appearance of cracks.
Finishing a sauna with your own hands necessarily requires insulation and vapor barrier of the walls. This way, firstly, we will retain the heat received from the stove and reduce heating costs, and secondly, we will normalize the humidity regime and protect thermal insulation materials from exposure to water.
The work is carried out according to the following scheme:
Advice!
More can be used thin beams, but in this case it is necessary to place support blocks under them.
This is done in order to provide the necessary gap for placing the insulation.
We also cover the insulation between the joists with waterproofing material. As an alternative to foil film, you can use polyethylene or kraft paper.
After completing the arrangements for the thermal insulation layer, you can begin installing the plank sheathing.
And here it is important to choose the right orientation of the board:
Note! The bottom row of horizontal sheathing begins to rot much earlier than all the other boards. Therefore, it must either be replaced periodically or impregnated with antiseptics at least once every few months.
Using this scheme, you can decorate not only the steam room, but also the shower room, dressing room, rest room, etc. Naturally, when working with these rooms, it is necessary to lay a smaller layer of insulation, since the need for energy saving will not be as urgent.
Finishing a bathhouse with your own hands, carried out according to the proposed scheme, ensures that the room maintains a comfortable microclimate for a long time. In addition, compliance with the given recommendations is insurance against the formation of fungus and rotting of the sheathing. The video in this article contains Additional information, which is also worth reading before starting work.
The finishing of a bathhouse differs in many respects from that of residential premises, both in the materials used and in technology. The most important thing you need to know when starting to decorate the inside of a bathhouse is: You can’t build a turnkey bathhouse and then think about how to finish it. The finishing of the bathhouse is carried out in combination with insulation and insulation, and as for the floor, also as part of the work on its installation. Reason – special conditions microclimate of the bathhouse and the stay of people in it.
The cornerstones of insulation are that the vapor barrier is applied on the wetter side, and the insulation on the cold side. In the bathhouse, both of them regularly find themselves inside, just, so to speak, in operating mode, during washing. So you need to insulate yourself from the inside? But in winter, the bathhouse periodically freezes completely, and then how can you prevent the building structures from becoming damp?
The second point is the bathhouse spirit. Not everyone could afford to build a “original” bathhouse in the old days, but in our time it is available to only a few. The sauna is not breathable - just a heat chamber and the health benefits from it are, to put it mildly, questionable. So how can you still steam in a building made of available materials, which is possible to build and equip on your own?
Finally, the main rooms of the bath are the washing room and the steam room.. In them, in addition to sudden changes in temperature and humidity, there is always a copious spill of water on the floor and walls. How to avoid unsanitary conditions in such conditions? All these tasks are taken on by finishing the inside of the bathhouse. Of course, it must also perform its usual functions, decorative and ergonomic.
Large public baths Since Ancient Rome, they were and are now often finished with mineral materials - stone, tiles. They are definitely not suitable for a small bathhouse: as the size of the building decreases, per unit of its volume there is an increasing area of external surfaces, and with it heat loss. Then, to make a stone bath breathe, it needs high, from 4-5 m, ceilings and well-designed ventilation and hot air supply systems; The design of the Roman baths still fascinates engineers and builders.
Have you been to the hammam? How high is it from the heels of the person standing in pairs to the lowest point of the ceiling? If less than 4.2 m, then what kind of equipment is hidden in the technical premises? How much does it cost, consume fuel and electricity? In a private household, the interior decoration of the bathhouse should, without alternative, be wooden. This makes it difficult for it to achieve proper hygiene, but there is no other way to install a healthy sauna with dimensions less than approx. 12x16 m no.
The structure of the bathhouse can be brick, foam and gas blocks, wooden beams, frame or log; We don’t touch on such exotic things as, say, an earthen bath. Except for one of these cases (see below), the structure of the bathhouse itself is not capable of breathing as a bathhouse should. Bathhouse builders charge about... 500 thousand rubles for the final finishing of a 4x6 m turnkey box, and materials account for no more than 20-25% of this amount! It follows that decorating a bathhouse with your own hands is at least economically justified. Now let’s summarize what we should get technically:
The simplest decoration of a Russian bath is simply its absence, see fig. More precisely, the absence of a continuous finish: a bathhouse made from wild logs selected to size breathes perfectly on its own thanks primarily to the open ends of the logs - along the fibers the tree absorbs and releases water vapor several times faster than across the layers, but it warms up from thermal radiation and from contact with heated air evenly. Therefore, in the original Russian bathhouse, the required ratio of temperature and humidity is automatically maintained. wide range flow intensity.
The original Russian bathhouse comes in 3 types - vigorous, made of oak, kondovaya, most often made of pine, and light, linden. The latter is the most useful, but if linden timber appears on sale, it is prohibitively expensive. A complete replacement for it in terms of sanitary and hygienic indicators, but only for 5-7 years, is poplar. Steaming in a vigorous oak bath is not for everyone’s health; It is definitely not recommended for women and children.
A pine bathhouse without interior decoration will be useful and quite fragrant if it is made from ordinary commercial pine-dried chips. Expensive, but extremely resistant to moisture, rot and pests, pitch pine is used for 1-2 lower crowns. However, the pine bath must first be “burnt”, the remaining volatile substances must be expelled from the logs, and the heavy fractions of resins must be forced to bituminize. To do this, in the summer, in dry hot weather, in the new bathhouse, in the morning, open all the doors, entrance and interior, windows, upper vents (see below) wide open and empty all containers, including the waste pit, if it is under the floor. Then the stove is heated to maximum until lunchtime; here for the first time you need an eye and an eye - suddenly there is something wrong in the fireproof cutting of the pipe (also see below). After lunch, the firebox is stopped, the bathhouse is allowed to cool until the next morning, and this procedure is repeated 3-5 times. If the weather turns bad, it’s okay, a break won’t hurt.
However, you can use a Russian log bathhouse without additional finishing only if the log house is properly caulked. Since ancient times, baths were caulked with moss, but now the best option– jute. During the construction process, the crowns are caulked in a stretched strip (see figure on the right), and after dry shrinkage of the frame, the cracks are hammered into the set with jute rope (top left photo in the figure above). If the bathhouse is built in compliance with these requirements, the floor in it is also laid as it should be, see below, and properly burnt, only decorative functions remain behind its finishing; you just need to leave more wall surfaces free and not cover the outer and inner ends of the logs.
The northern country of Finland has never been rich in forests suitable for building a bathhouse. The abundant spruce there is not the best option in this case: it is difficult and time-consuming to remove resin from its solid mass. Therefore, the Finns initially assigned the medical and health functions of the bathhouse to its less expensive internal lining: The traditional finishing of the sauna is a plank stand made of seasoned spruce boards, see fig.
Avid Finnish sauna lovers, having steamed in their own and in a real Russian sauna, say: yours is better. Not by much, but it still feels better. However, a sauna is much simpler, cheaper, can be made compact, even in the nook of a city apartment, and even mobile, which is what determined its wide distribution. The design of the sauna is very plastic, therefore, if you want to get a sauna, then when finishing using the methods described below, use seasoned air-dry spruce for the cladding.
So, a properly equipped bathhouse made of any material other than solid logs should breathe like a bathhouse, thanks mainly to the decoration of the walls. It is more necessary for the ceiling to prevent heat loss so that the air under it does not become oversaturated with moisture, but, having cooled slightly, immediately flows down to the floor. The floor gets the most: it must be safe, i.e. non-slippery, hygienic, warm, especially resistant to rot, mold, pests, ensure the drainage of spilled water and at the same time do not interfere with the ventilation of the subfloor, otherwise the entire structure will become damp. And, as you know, it is strongly not recommended to make the base of a bathhouse higher than 200 mm.
Note: To finishing works You can start in the bathhouse only after the foundation and the box on it have settled. The timing of technical breaks for shrinkage depends on the design of the foundation and the structure of the bathhouse.
You need to learn from simple to complex, but in practice, for complete success you need to deal with the most complex cases first. Therefore, let's go, firstly, as is customary in construction, from bottom to top, from floor to roof; secondly, since there is a stove in the bathhouse, it will be necessary to bring in the principle “from the stove”. That is, we will carry out the interior decoration of the bathhouse in this order, assuming that the box with windows and doors is already on the foundation:
Note: The overhead vents in the bathhouse are often forgotten, but in vain. Especially in a steam room, they can be vital for instantly releasing steam in case someone becomes ill. An unheated bathhouse must be kept with the top vents open to avoid dampness of the walls.
Sauna stoves are a separate topic, and brick sauna stoves are a separate topic. Here we will focus only on the fireproof cutting of the chimney, because... Without it, it is impossible to begin further arrangement with it, and no one has yet come up with hanging chimneys without a stove.
A brick sauna stove is heated intensively, but not constantly and not for long, so the danger of soot ignition in it is low. Therefore, the cutting of its chimney is not made wide, but in 7 rows; For order, see pos. 1 pic. A hatch is cut out in the attic floor for cutting, pos. 2, and perform additional insulation with vermiculite, pos. 3. In the case of using a widened groove, the hatch is expanded accordingly and additional insulation is then no longer needed, on the right in pos. 3. Cutting a passage through the roof is common, but that’s another topic.
The beams of the subfloor of the bathhouse should be supported by concrete pillars from 200x200 mm or brick pillars from 380x380 mm. An anti-heaving sand cushion with a thickness (thickness) of at least 300 mm and extending beyond the contour of the column from 150 mm is installed under each column. The installation step of supports is no more than 1.2 m along the long side of the building and no more than 2 m along the short side. If the frame of the subfloor is spinal or lattice (see below), then the arrangement of supports is drawn up so that there is a column under each cross of the beams. Because Since the base of the bathhouse is low, it is in all respects convenient to use ready-made concrete foundation blocks 200x200x400 mm without teeth, with smooth ends, for floor supports. The columns are leveled horizontally along the foundation by adding and compacting sand pads and, before laying the floor beams, they are covered with 2 layers of waterproofing, just like the foundation.
The ideal material for the floor beams and 1-2 lower crowns of the frame is healthy straight-grain pitch pine, freshly cut in mid-spring. Bark beetles, wood borers and fungi do not touch this: they will choke in the resin. The abundant resin in it will be bituminized by the end of summer, and the tree will become resistant to moisture, rot and pests no worse than bog oak. The tar does not require any pre-treatment, but, unfortunately, this material is very expensive, and in many countries logging during the spring sap flow is generally prohibited.
It is better to use larch for beams and subfloor boards: it only needs to be impregnated with fire retardants and biocides with inexpensive and safe solutions of borax and boric acid; Larch is not afraid of water anyway. Oak too, but it is more expensive, and the bath does not need additional strength. Other industrial wood for flooring must also be impregnated with water-repellent compounds - water repellents. Of these, only expensive refined mineral oils and no less expensive synthetic ones based on silicone are suitable for baths. ABOUT bitumen mastic and even more so, it’s better to forget about surrogates like working off, if we are talking about a bath.
Note: all without exception wood materials To finish the bath, before use, they are brought into it and left for 1-3 days for acclimatization. Otherwise finished design one of them will almost certainly soon warp or dry out.
If the width of the bathhouse structure is more than 4 m, the subfloor frame needs a spine frame (item 1 in the figure) or a lattice frame made of 150x150 beams. In this case, its beams crash into each other halfway through the tree. The frame, like the entire floor of the bathhouse, is made floating with a deformation gap around the perimeter of 20-40 mm. The gap is not tightly filled with jute rope or mineral cardboard.
In a bathhouse up to 4 m wide, the base of the subfloor is made of beams made of 150x50 beams. After cutting to size, cranial bars 40x40 or 50x50 are stuffed onto them below, and the beams are laid out in places with increments of 400-500 mm, pos. 2. The beams are secured from displacement with pieces of the same timber, cut according to a template, pos. 3. In log buildings, it is permissible to lay floor beams in the grooves of the lower crown of the frame freely, without inserting, pos. 4, with a gap along the groove contour of 4-6 mm. Next, the cells of the beam structure are filled with subfloor boards, pos. 5. They are attached to the skull blocks with galvanized or phosphated nails or self-tapping screws.
The subfloor of the bathhouse should be laid across the spans between the beams from pieces of boards cut to size. As we will see later, then when laying the finished floor, the cracks in it and in rough floor will turn out to be perpendicular, which will facilitate the very difficult task of insulating the bathhouse floor.
The second feature is that it is better to take cheap debarked slab on the subfloor of the bathhouse and lay it with its convex sides up. The outer dense and resistant layer of wood in the slab boards is not damaged, which will give the floor durability, and the convexity of the boards will prevent stagnation of water spilled on the floor. The slabs, due to the reduction in the thickness of the trunk from bottom to top, converge to one end, so the subfloor is assembled from the slab by picking up boards and laying them alternately with thin ends in one direction and the other.
Finally, finished floor joists 50 mm wide without insertion are installed on the floor beams, pos. 6. They are also fastened to the beams with galvanized or phosphated steel corners from 30x30x2 and also corrosion-resistant screws from 6x25. “From” in the first case refers primarily to the thickness of the metal of the corner, so that it will last for at least 15 years under sauna operating conditions.
The height of the logs under the finished floor in the bathhouse is taken to be different for different rooms: 50 mm in the washing room, 75-100 mm in the dressing room and relaxation room, and 200 mm in the steam room. Why - see below.
So why are the floor joists in the bathhouse different? First of all, because it is possible to apply the usual floor insulation scheme (see figure on the right) in a bathhouse only for the dressing room and rest room. In the steam room and washing room it is necessary to spill on the floor hot water; In principle, only extruded polystyrene foam (EPS) is capable of maintaining its qualities and not becoming a source of rot in such conditions from insulation materials, but it, like other types of foam plastic, is seriously discredited according to recent studies.
Not long ago, experiments were completed in several countries (Holland, Canada, Russia, etc.), at the beginning of which foam plastic slabs different types were placed on the walls from various building materials and walled up under plaster of different compositions. After opening it 10 years later, it turned out that from the original foam thickness of 80-100 mm, there was... 17-23 mm left!
As it turned out during the analysis, foam plastics are destroyed into liquid styrene, which evaporates under the influence of subtle traces of chemically active volatile organics in the air, down to the components of the aroma of flowers and the smell of pine forests. Industrial emissions and gasoline fumes are, of course, even worse. Speed chemical reactions and vapor diffusion into solids depend on temperature according to power laws, so foam insulation in a bathhouse is unlikely to last 10 years even under concrete, which seems to be something many users have already encountered.
It follows that for insulating the floor in a washing and steam bath there is only one method left: air-to-air, like a gas view in bell-type stoves. Its essence is that a cushion of cold dense gases/air holds warm ones on top, but to do this it is necessary to exclude convection by limiting the contact area of the cold and warm layers. The stronger the effect, the greater the temperature difference and, consequently, the density of the cold and warm layers.
The design of the floor with cells made of lags intersecting with beams and cracks of the rough and finishing floor prevents convection, holding it above the floor warm air. Raising the floor of the steam room above the washing room by 150 mm is necessary due to the temperature difference in them. In a steam room, the less heated air cushion in the floor is more stable and warmer than in a washing room. Leaking there from below, it feeds the cooled air in the floor of the washing room: there it, finally cooling down, goes into the underground. The temperature difference at the top and bottom of the washing room is much smaller; convection through the floor can go through narrow gaps and the room will quickly get cold.
As for the elevation of the floors of the dressing room and rest room, it is sanitary standards should be from 3 cm. This value was obtained from the statistics of pipeline accidents in bathrooms - per 1 sq. m of floor in such cases, up to 25 liters of water are poured out. A layer of 3 cm per 1 square. m gives 30 l, i.e. with a margin so that it does not flow into the living rooms. For a bathhouse, this calculation is not valid, but the norm is the norm, and there will be no harm from an elevation of more than 3 cm. Finally, the outflow of the “cold” (which is warm for other rooms) air cushion from the floor of the steam room will warm up the floors of the dressing room with the rest room.
As you can see, the critical point of insulating the bathhouse floor is the washing room floor. If you make it, as is often advised, inclined with point surface drainage, this is not the optimal option:
The floor of a washing room with a dispersed drain and a catcher in the underground, pos. 1 in Fig. In addition, this design makes it possible to additionally insulate the subfloor with a layer of expanded clay under concrete screed. It is best if the catcher covers the entire area of the bathhouse. If not, it should extend under the steam room, and its wings should extend under the dressing room and rest room by at least 60 cm.
The slotted floor in the washing room is made of larch or oak boards with a rounded edge, pos. 2. Slots at pos. 3 shown maximum permissible width so that you can catch a small object that has fallen into the underground with your fingers, a hook or tweezers/platypuses; In general, gaps of 0.5-1 cm are enough for the floor in the washing room to work as it should.
It’s easier in a steam room with a finished floor - here there is a burst of drainage only if they are poured out of a gang, and the underground heats up well. Therefore, the floor of the steam room can be laid from the same boards as in the washing room, laid end to end.
If, when laying floors in a bathhouse, one had to think more about their own functionality, then on the walls one cannot ignore the structural features of the bathhouse and the decorative qualities of the finishing. First of all, you need to decide which wood finishing is better: moldings made of natural wood or MDF, which is more resistant, but does not exude useful substances (for example, phytoncides). In any case, at the same stage the type of insulating material is determined. The choice depends on the properties of the material of the bath structure - timber / galvanized logs, frame / foam blocks, brick / aerated concrete blocks. The structure of a bathhouse made of monolithic foam concrete has the same properties as those made of foam blocks.
It is usually recommended to insulate a bathhouse with mineral wool, as well as living quarters, which is not the best choice: mineral wool is hygroscopic, when wet it loses its insulating qualities and irreversibly cakes. Based on its range of properties, the best insulating material for a bathhouse should be considered cellulose insulation – ecowool. Much has been written about its merits; For a bathhouse, the main thing is that ecowool practically does not lose its insulating qualities after 72 hours of exposure to an atmosphere with 100% humidity. In addition, ecowool is blown into cavities without much difficulty using a manual blowing machine, which can be rented, see fig.
Insulation with ecowool is more expensive than with mineral wool, by about 25%. But let’s take into account that the area of the insulated surface decreases squarely as the size of the building decreases. If, for example, when insulating a house of 100 square meters. m of ecowool, the overexpenditure of funds is 100 thousand rubles, then for a bathhouse of 20 sq. m. m (4x5 m), its absolute value will decrease by 25 times and amount to 4 thousand rubles, which will not be visible in the estimate for the bathhouse.
In general, ecowool was purposely created for insulating baths, but in the future we will still focus on the more popular mineral wool. Just keep in mind that for ecowool, foil vapor barrier can almost always be replaced with glassine or kraft paper, and where this is not possible, it will be specifically indicated.
They are often confused or considered the same material, so let’s clarify: foam concrete absorbs vapor and liquid water a lot and quickly, but just as easily gives off moisture. Aerated concrete is vapor permeable almost like wood. It draws liquid water into itself slowly and in a smaller volume, but, once damp, it dries no better than a brick.
You can use a clean-edged board to decorate the walls of a bathhouse in any way you like, but you won’t be able to do without cracks in them. Washing and steam room walls can only be covered with simple tongue-and-groove boards standing up: the shelves and tongue-and-groove pockets of horizontally sewn boards will become moisture catchers and sources of damage to the wood.
When covering walls in a bathhouse with clapboard, it is not so much the material that matters as the profile of the board. For plating horizontal belts the Standard profile is more suitable, at the top in Fig. on the right or Softline (with rounded chamfers) without a ventilation groove on the back side: ventilation of the skin will be ensured vertical arrangement sheathing slats, see below. For standing cladding along a horizontal sheathing, you need profiles with a wide ventilation groove in the center; crossing lathing in a bathhouse is unsuitable, because Ventilation of the casing will be poor in any case. Also unsuitable are profiles with narrow ventilation slots, shown below in the figure: they are intended for installation without sheathing on smooth walls in dry rooms.
Saunas made of rounded logs and timber, compared to the original Russian ones, breathe more often and deeper, because... in both cases, the top dense layer of wood is cut off and its pores are open over the entire surface of the material. Baths made of foam concrete/foam blocks and frame ones breathe the same way, but they become damp faster and lose their heat-insulating properties; dry also quickly. Compared to humans, they are easily out of breath and catch colds, but recover easily. A bathhouse made of gas blocks breathes easily and deeply, but if you have already caught a cold, i.e. damp, sick (dries) for a long time and severely. A brick bathhouse breathes shallowly and heavily, and suffers just like an aerated concrete bathhouse.
Internal lining made of oak or beech can deepen and slow down the breathing of a bathhouse; to a lesser extent - from ash and maple. To make it faster and lighter - from linden, alder, aspen; finishing the steam room with wood of these species will be the best. Birch and hornbeam are easily affected by fungi and pests, just like a wet nut. Of the conifers, seasoned pine after “burning” as described above is suitable for a very average bathhouse. Other rocks advertised for finishing baths have not yet been properly tested for the leakage of substances that are not beneficial to health, with one exception.
This exception is Cryptomeria japonica; it goes on sale under the name koto or kote. The Japanese use koto to make their baths, fonts and other washing accessories. The cryptomeria finish in itself can give the bathhouse smooth, deep breathing and a healthy spirit. Cryptomeria is resistant to diseases and pests, grows quite quickly, and renews well. Therefore, its technical culture has already spread quite widely, and lining made from cryptomeria is cheaper than linden. Its color is light, slightly darker than that of maple; fine texture. In addition to the steam room, koto wood is suitable for finishing a wash room. Keep in mind.
Schemes for covering bathhouse walls with wood molded materials are given on the left in Fig. Let’s immediately pay attention to the sidebar: you can’t line the walls of a bathhouse with a herringbone pattern, as rot will come from the pockets under the paneling. At pos. 1 – diagram of the internal lining of the walls of a bathhouse made of timber, rounded logs and foam blocks. The thermal insulation properties of such a bathhouse are good, the vapor permeability of the walls is close to optimal, so a foil vapor barrier under the casing is sufficient to protect the building from condensation soaking during the cooling of the bathhouse. MDF lining is suitable for cladding. The foam block bath will additionally need to be protected from the outside from getting wet without losing vapor permeability, see at the end. The lining for its lining requires wood, which makes the bath’s breathing heavier, see above. Vapor barrier is necessary for any insulation material.
At pos. 2 – diagram of the internal lining of a bathhouse made of other materials, including gas blocks. Their thermal insulation qualities are high, but this material must be protected in every possible way from liquid moisture getting on the wall, even for a short time. For this purpose, finishing a washing bath made of gas blocks necessarily includes in its structure waterproofing made of a microperforated membrane (roofing film): membrane waterproofing retains the smallest droplets of condensate, but allows water vapor to pass through, which then migrates through the wall to the outside. This will, of course, make the gas-block bathhouse rather difficult to breathe.
When constructing a log house, a bathhouse made of timber with natural humidity (the cheapest) should be caulked into a stretch, see fig. on right. In a bathhouse made of bricks and foam blocks, the lathing under the cladding is mounted on bare, leveled walls, pos. 3 in Fig. higher. Then they install/spray insulation and apply a metalized vapor barrier - foil insulation, etc., encircling it around the sheathing slats. Place the sheathing slats on top of the insulation, as in pos. 6 – a serious mistake: through their fasteners, moisture will penetrate into the insulation and the wall; The fasteners for the sheathing and insulation clamping strips are small, they do not pierce through the sheathing, see also below.
The overlap of the insulation strips (tapes) is 15-20 cm; The joints are taped with special tape. The upper tape should overlap the lower one to drain possible condensation. If the roof of the bathhouse is insulated, then the likelihood of condensation at the top along the contour of the wall is higher than on the ceiling. In this case, before rolling out the last tape of wall insulation, the ceiling is insulated (item 6), and the last tape overlaps both the previous wall and the ceiling insulation.
The actual lining of the walls of the bathhouse has no significant features, except for one thing: finishing the steam room in the bathhouse with clapboard should be done only and only with standard fastenings - gluers, see fig. Temperature jumps in a steam room can reach 80 degrees in the Moscow region and more than 100 degrees in Siberia; thermal deformations will also be of a corresponding magnitude. Any acceptable in living rooms simplifications and reductions in cost, such as small nails driven obliquely into the groove of a tongue and groove, in a steam room will soon lead to warping of the sheathing, damage to the insulation and soaking of the walls.
Ventilation vents under the ceiling of the bathhouse - upper vents - are necessary, as mentioned above, to keep the temperature and humidity of the unheated bathhouse equal to the outside ones and so that steam can be quickly released in emergency cases. But it is impossible to make them in the form of simple ventilation windows with blind hatch covers: during thermal bath procedures, condensation may fall in the ventilation passage, which will immediately go into the wall and/or insulation. Therefore, the top vents in the bathhouse are made with inserts made of wall material (see figure on the right) or, say, foam plastic, in this case it is quite applicable.
The simplest way to install metal sauna stove shown in pos. 1 Fig., but this is far from optimal: there is no appearance, and the risk of injury and fire does not decrease, because the fence is flammable and permeable. A solid brick fence (item 2) is more reliable, but takes more usable area, an excess of which is not observed in homemade baths. Brick oven, pos. 3, in addition, requires laying a foundation for it and long technical breaks for its shrinkage and the structure of the furnace. It would be best, perhaps, to install a sauna stove in a niche lined with artificial stone (item 4) or porcelain stoneware; both are firmly glued to the wood using appropriate mounting adhesives.
Currently, there is a wide range of chimneys for stoves based on sandwich pipes on sale. They look neat, inset at the top left in the figure:
But, firstly, they do not eliminate the need for plumbing, welding and construction work, as can be seen from the diagram in the center in Fig. There are also plenty of other difficulties and subtleties when installing a sandwich chimney (see video).
Secondly, many happy owners of “cool” chimneys have experienced cases like the one whose consequences are shown in the inset at the top right. Manufacturers are not deceiving consumers here, but the latter, choosing cheaper ones, unknowingly connect to sauna stoves sandwich chimneys for fireplaces, which are absolutely unsuitable for sauna conditions. And for a sandwich chimney that is more or less suitable for a sauna or heating and cooking stove, you need to pay at least 30 thousand rubles.
Meanwhile, there is a way to make a simple and safe chimney for a sauna stove with your own hands, spending no more effort than installing a branded sandwich, and many times less money. This is the lining of an ordinary steel chimney. How it is produced is shown in pos. 1 Fig., and what it looks like in real life - in pos. 2 and 3. If the pipe under the bottom of the sleeve is red-hot, the temperature of the attachment points of the brick cutting base plate at +60 in the room will not exceed the permissible for wood +95. Insulation of the base plate from below is necessary so that during a weak firebox or at the beginning of heating a cold room, soot deposition in the chimney does not increase and/or acidic condensation does not fall out.
The task of the bathhouse ceiling, as stated above, is quite simple: it must prevent heat loss through itself, so that convection in both the heated and cold bathhouse occurs without reaching dew in the rooms. Therefore, the ceiling of the bathhouse is made of the usual hemmed ceiling from the same board or lining as the walls, according to the standard scheme shown with dimensions on the left in Fig. Option for 2-stage ceiling insulation for a bathhouse with a warm attic, habitable attic or home bath given on the right there.
In all respects, it is advisable to install light frame partitions on any bathhouse on a clean floor. Their heat and sound insulation can be foam plastic, because... This design is completely repairable. There is only one limitation: the cladding is made of the same materials as the walls; plywood, fiberboard, and gypsum board, even if they are moisture resistant, are unsuitable; they are not for bath conditions.
The second thing that has more to do with the decoration of the bathhouse than with its equipment and furniture is the shelves. Diagrams and dimensions of bath shelves for steam rooms of different sizes and layouts are given in the figure:
As for their design, the simplest thing would be a set of ordinary grated drains made from rocks suitable for baths deciduous tree(see above).
Such loungers are laid on wooden runners, installed on the walls in the order of their covering, see fig. on right. This solution makes it possible to configure the shelves as needed or completely remove them for cleaning, sanitizing or repairs.
According to safety regulations, the entire bathhouse is classified as a particularly dangerous premises in terms of the degree of electric shock and fire hazard. In such conditions, a general power supply of 12 V and waterproof lamps are acceptable. Everything would be fine, but wiring for the same power turns out to be high-current, unreliable and unsafe in a humid, heated environment, and the light bulbs quickly burn out. Therefore in Lately Expensive but completely safe light guide illuminators are increasingly being used to illuminate washing rooms and steam rooms. In them, the projector lamp illuminates a bundle of light guides, the branches of which are distributed along the points where the illuminators are located. Among other things, light guide lighting in the bath allows you to obtain beautiful lighting effects, see fig.:
Well, it turns out that the decoration of the bath largely determines the pleasure and benefits of it? Why not, in this case, think of a bathhouse for yourself, following the finishing outwards? That's right, many bathhouse designers do just that. Let’s try to think of a small bathhouse for ourselves that, with a minimum of justifiable costs for it, will be as pleasant and beneficial as possible. The result is:
The main rule when laying the coating is to ensure the outflow of water from the bathhouse. Modern builders prefer wood or tiles. The work is not difficult; you can do it yourself. You can use several tips from professionals:
Modern construction requires maximum comfort for people, including when constructing bath complexes. After all, this is not only an opportunity to take a steam bath, but also to relax. The need for the device arose when they began to be made of concrete, due to the fact that the service life is 3 times higher than that of wooden ones.
You can install both water and. Water ones require preliminary connection and connection to heating equipment. This is not always possible. Therefore, more often the choice is made in favor of the second system.
Electric floors are safe in the bath complex. The system is mounted in a screed. The concrete base must first be prepared. It is important to avoid mistakes during installation that will later be impossible to correct. Therefore, the work needs to be transferred to specialists.
You can do it yourself by laying additional thermal insulation from the following materials:
To do this, you will need to pour 2 layers of concrete, between which thermal insulation should be laid.
Steam rooms are a must. This will help save useful heat. You can use mineral wool, which is laid on the sheathing. But this is not recommended for stone or concrete walls, since an additional device will be required. The insulation needs to be cut with an allowance of about 5 mm. After installation, the joints must be secured with mounting tape. Aluminum foil or polyethylene film is used.
The video below shows the process of interior finishing of the bathhouse.
Lining is a favorite and often used material for the interior decoration of baths. Many people love the pine smell in a steam room, but the use of such species is not recommended. The maximum that is possible is to finish the dressing room with pine.
The following tree species are also suitable for lining:
You can lay the boards vertically, horizontally, or make patterns from slats. It is important to lay a foil layer of vapor barrier before work. If desired, the interior decoration of the bathhouse with clapboard can be done with your own hands using a herringbone pattern or, similar to parquet, using clamps. The gaps at the joints are covered with plinths.
Advice! For a steam room, you cannot use material with knots. Their density is higher than that of the array. When exposed to high temperatures they will fall out.
Modern baths are a whole complex, the layout of which includes not only a steam room and a dressing room with a wash room, but also a font, a swimming pool, a relaxation room with a billiard room, and sleeping places. It all depends on the financial capabilities of the owners and personal preferences. Each of them is subject to special conditions when choosing finishing and filling with furniture:
Let's take a closer look at their selection with a photo selection of the interior decoration of each bathhouse room.
The steam room is the main room of the bathhouse. As a rule, it is small in size, which causes certain difficulties in design. The filling should be stylish, inexpensive and simple, leaving an area for steam to circulate.
For walls and floors, it is optimal to use linings as finishing materials. These are the most environmentally friendly materials; in addition, they have natural thermal insulation. The ideal option is linden; it is not exposed to high temperatures and retains its pristine purity for a long time. You can combine stone finishing with wood or. For finishing the oven perfect option– natural or fake diamond, brick.
Advice! Coniferous species are not suitable for a steam room due to their increased resin content. You cannot use chipboard, fiberboard, or linoleum as they are toxic when exposed to high temperatures.
Furniture for the steam room should be strong and well polished. Spot lighting should be installed on the ceiling. We suggest you take a look beautiful photos finishing of the sauna inside.
The wash room can be a separate room in the house or combined with a steam room. In this case, wood finishing is acceptable. High temperatures kill mold. If the washing room is provided in a separate room, you should consider exhaust system. With good air circulation, you can choose coniferous species for finishing that are resistant to high humidity.
Advice! Synthetic materials that emit toxic substances should not be used for washing.
Tile is an excellent material for finishing in conditions of high humidity. It is durable, practical, easy to care for. In addition, a wide variety of textures and patterns allows you to choose interesting solutions. In the washing room it is necessary to provide for the installation of shelves, benches or sun loungers. You can put a wooden grate on the floor.
