Slate is a popular material that is inexpensive, but highly reliable and durable. If you paint it, then in terms of decorativeness it can easily compete with modern roofing innovations. Therefore, the scope of application of slate is almost unlimited: asbestos-cement roofs can be found on both modest country houses and luxury cottages.
The spread of the material is also facilitated by the fact that laying slate on a roof is not a difficult job, anyone can do it. But in order for the coating to last, as it should, for at least half a century, you will need to study all the nuances of this simple but important event.
Many people believe that slate is a universal roofing material. This is wrong. To prevent precipitation from seeping under the slate, it is recommended to lay it only on single- or gable roofs with a slope of at least 15°. If you want to use a flatter roof as a base, you will have to construct serious waterproofing under the sheathing from several layers of roofing felt or membrane, and also increase the overlap of adjacent sheets up to 300 mm.
To obtain a roofing covering, slate is fixed to the sheathing in horizontal rows, moving from bottom to top (from the eaves). Each subsequent sheet in a row is placed on the previous one by 1-2 waves. Each subsequent row is also shifted to the previous one, as a rule, by 120-200 mm.
There are two ways to lay out slate:
As a rule, wave slate is laid staggered. This option is less labor-intensive, since it is not associated with big amount pruning. Installing slate without offset is much more difficult, since almost every sheet has to be cut in the corners. But this technology also has a significant advantage - it saves material.
Let's take a step-by-step look at the process of covering a roof with slate, focusing on the difference in the two layout schemes.
The first step to attaching the slate is to prepare the base - the sheathing, which is fixed directly to the rafters. The lathing can be continuous or sparse.
Solid sheathing is a flooring made of OSB, plywood or boards. Such a base is usually used if it is necessary to cover the roof with slate with an unusually small thickness.
For standard slate with a thickness in accordance with GOST, a sparse sheathing is recommended - a structure made of bars installed at a certain pitch on top of the rafters. A suitable cross-section of the lathing is 40-70 mm. Too thin bars are not used, due to their possible damage under external load (for example, under the influence of fallen snow). Too thick bars are also bad. When warped, they can cause rupture of asbestos-cement fibers and the formation of cracks in slate.
It is recommended to use bars of different heights as part of the sheathing frame. Ordinary bars usually have a cross-section of 60x60 mm; they are fixed in odd rows. Even rows are made up of elements whose height is slightly higher - half the thickness of the slate used. For example, if the thickness of the slate is 6 mm, then the height of the “even” bars is 63 mm. The first (eaves) bar also has a different height - 66 mm, which should rise above the ordinary ones by the thickness of the slate sheet. For uniformity, a different scheme is often used: they use slats of the same height - 60x60 mm, but, in even rows and near the eaves, they are built up using linings 3 mm thick.
The sheathing is fixed to the rafters at right angles using nails or self-tapping screws. Since slate is a durable, non-bending material, 3 support bars are sufficient to install each sheet. The pitch of the batten lathing depends on the length of the sheet. The standard length is 1750 mm, respectively, the lathing pitch is 700-750 mm.
1-2 sheathing beams are installed on the ridge (on each slope) for subsequent fastening of the ridge parts to them. The height of the bars is selected on the spot, in fact.
Additionally, lathing is done around the chimney. To do this, ordinary bars are fixed along the perimeter of the pipe trunk at a distance of at least 130 mm from it (to ensure fire safety).
Correctly calculating the amount of slate is another important step, which will save the roofer from the need to purchase 1-2 missing sheets at the last moment and order transport for this.
You need to understand that not the entire surface of the material is used to directly cover the roof. Part of the area (along the perimeter of the sheet) is lost under the overlap.
Therefore, the calculation of the amount of slate is carried out as follows:
1. Determine the amount of slate in the transverse (horizontal) row (P) using the formula:
P = (L + 2C) / (B 2 – B 1),
2. Determine the amount of slate in the longitudinal row (n) using the formula:
n = (L o + C 1) / (L 2 – L 1),
3. The resulting figures are rounded up to a whole number, multiplied and the total number of sheets per 1 roof slope is obtained. If the roof is gable, then the calculated number of sheets (+10% - for damage and defects) is purchased in double quantity.
Before lifting slate sheets onto the roof, it is necessary to sort them and, in accordance with the chosen laying pattern, cut them.
You can cut slate with several tools:
The easiest and fastest way to cut slate is with a grinder with a stone (concrete) disc or a diamond disc.
Cutting process:
Sheets are cut in the same way with a hacksaw or jigsaw, but when using these tools you need to be extremely careful not to break them.
Cutting methods using a drill or slate nail deserve special attention.
When using a drill, use a 2 mm drill to make through holes along the cutting line in increments of 0.5 cm. After drilling is completed, one edge of the sheet is placed on a support (a table, for example), and pressure is applied to the other edge, after which the slate is split along the intended line.
Instead of a drill bit, you can use a sharpened nail and a hammer to make through holes. To do this, place the nail on the intended line and hit the head with a hammer. The blows should be careful, strong enough, but not sharp. In this way, multiple pinholes are punched at a short distance from each other. After this, the sheet is split into two parts.
The technology for cutting slate sheets with a grinder is shown in the video:
The laying of slate begins on the side, opposite direction prevailing winds. That is, the installation of sheets begins on the left side, if strong winds blow from the right, and vice versa. This will prevent rain and snow from blowing into areas where the sheets overlap.
A cord is pulled along the cornice at a distance of the length of the overhang in order to level the rows of slate along it. Instead of a cord, you can use a flat wooden strip.
Sequence of work in a staggered layout:
1. The first horizontal row begins to be made up of whole sheets of slate. Each subsequent sheet overlaps 1-2 waves of the previous one (as a rule, there is 1 wave per overlap). Fastening is carried out using roofing nails or self-tapping screws with soft (rubber) gaskets.
2. In the second row, the first sheet is cut into a certain number of waves, depending on the desired offset amount. Then whole, uncut products are placed. The sheets overlap the underlying row, forming an overlap of 200 mm - with a slope slope of 15-20°, 150 mm - with a slope of more than 20°. That is, the greater the slope, the less permissible overlap.
3. The third and all subsequent rows begin with sheets cut into twice the number of waves cut off from the first sheet of the underlying row. For example, if the first sheet of the second row was shortened by 1 wave, then the first sheet of the third row will have to be cut by 2 waves, then by 3 waves, etc. It is more convenient to offset by 1/2 the width of the slate. In this case, you will only have to cut the sheets in half in each even row. Odd rows are made up of whole sheets.
4. The ridge row is laid last, making it up from sheets cut across.
In a layout without offset:
1. The first sheet is laid whole, uncut. Align it along the cord, secure it with nails or self-tapping screws. For subsequent sheets of the first row, the upper right corner is beveled at an angle (if installation begins on the right side of the slope).
2. The lower left corner of the first sheet of the second row is cut off, after which it is joined to the cut corner of the second sheet in the first row. Subsequent sheets are beveled in two corners - in the upper right and lower left (located diagonally). For the last sheet of the second row (located on the left), only the upper right corner is cut off.
3. The elements of the top row (under the ridge) are cut according to the lower left corner and according to the height - in fact. The corners of the last sheet are not cut off. Such a scheme for forming corners is reliable only when laying sheets from right to left. If the installation direction goes from left to right, then trimming is performed in opposite corners (instead of left corners - right corners and vice versa).
After covering the roof with slate, the final stage begins - installation of additional elements. To cover the ridge, it is advisable to use special ridge parts made of asbestos cement. Each such element consists of two parts connected on hinges. As an alternative to the factory part, you can use galvanized sheet, bent to sheet bending machine or by hand.
Chimney collars, dormer windows and the junctions with the walls are decorated using corner parts made of asbestos-cement or galvanized collars. They are fixed on top of slate sheets using self-tapping screws passed through the crests of the waves. The upper edge of the apron is attached to the wall and sealed. The lower edge overlaps at least 1 wave of the row sheet.
The valleys are covered with galvanized or asbestos-cement trays, installing them from bottom to top. In this case, the longitudinal walls of the tray must be overlapped with slate sheets by at least 150 mm.
Once the installation of the additional elements has been completed, the installation of the slate roof can be considered complete.
An important nuance that should be discussed separately is the selection of fasteners and their use in the process of fastening slate to the roof.
The following can be used as fastening elements:
Fasteners are mounted in two ways (to choose from):
An important feature of fastening: during installation, the nail or self-tapping screw is not pulled to the limit to the slate sheet, but a small gap of 2-3 mm is left - to compensate for temperature expansion. If you neglect this advice, the slate roof will soon begin to crack.
Fasteners are installed only in the upward protruding parts of the wave (in the crest), where the slate comes into contact with the sheathing (to connect the roofing sheet to the sheathing material). Fastening is carried out at a distance of 80-100 mm from the edges of the sheets.
Since the slate usually rests on 3 sheathing bars, and fastening is done at the points of contact of the 2 waves with the sheathing, the total number of nails (screws) for each sheet is 6 pieces.
Some additional nuances of how to cover a roof with slate can be learned from the video:
The technology for installing a slate roof is very simple. She won't demand from you special costs time, labor and money. Despite this, the roof will turn out beautiful (especially if you get acquainted with slate paint!), reliable and durable.
Just a couple of decades ago, many houses had slate roofs. It was chosen for its low cost and relative ease of installation, while many of these roofs still serve today. However, there is often a need to insulate a roof under slate, and very few people know how to do this. In addition, when performing work to create a heat-insulating layer, many problems arise related to the characteristics of such roofing material as slate.
Slate has a wavy shape and it will not be possible to lay the insulation close to its surface. This is one of the main problems, since creating a dense heat-insulating layer in this case will be difficult, especially when using fibrous insulating materials. It will be necessary to install a special system of cranial bars and sheathing so that the insulation has something to rest against during installation.
The second difficulty is waterproofing the heat-retaining material. The slate waves run along the entire plane of the roof and moist air easily enters them, which can render any fibrous insulation unusable - moisture can accumulate in them and the effectiveness of the material will decrease. Therefore, it is necessary to ensure high-quality waterproofing.
Previously, roofing felt was used as a water insulator, nailed directly to the roof sheathing before laying the slate. However, over time it very quickly becomes unusable and cannot serve as full protection against water. You will have to attach another layer of waterproofing materials to the rafters. It could even be a simple plastic film.
However, the question immediately arises of removing excess moisture from the insulating layer. It is necessary to secure the vapor barrier and waterproofing membrane in such a way that small ventilation ducts remain between it and the roof, through which moist air will escape outside. Moreover, this must be done extremely carefully so as not to damage the protective film.
Having dealt with the protection of heat-retaining material, it is necessary to move on to one of the most important issues - the choice of insulation. It must be selected in accordance with the requirements that are placed on it. At the same time, in different cases these will be different requirements.
These data are true for a layer of mineral wool - the most popular and popular insulation. However, there are other options for insulating materials. For example - polystyrene foam. It is lightweight, easy to install and retains heat well. But, it also has enough disadvantages that will outweigh the advantages in the form of cheapness and lightness. It is highly flammable and releases when melting and burning harmful substances material. In addition, many people are allergic to the smell of polystyrene foam. So, it is suitable for technical structures, but it is better not to use it for housing.
Spray polyurethane foam can be an ideal solution for slate roofs. This is essentially a sprayed insulation that covers the entire treated surface with a dense layer, without cracks or gaps. When using it, it will only be necessary to ensure that there are no through cracks and holes in the roof and on the side of the gables. Its only drawback is the lack of air exchange between the external environment and the treated room. You'll have to think about good ventilation.
Another option for how to insulate a slate roof from the inside would be to use bulk insulation materials such as expanded clay, which are laid on the side of the ceiling that is external to the premises. This decision will not allow warm attic, but insulation of residential premises will be very effective. The most modern material in this category will be ecowool, which can simply be scattered over the surface of the ceiling and covered from the outside with a waterproofing film.
Today, more and more developers are asking this question. The fact is that a cold roofing system allows you to erect a residential building for relatively little money, while an insulated roof requires enormous costs, both financially and in terms of effort and time. Having realized that such a system is in some sense better, many developers asked themselves the question: is a vapor barrier needed under a cold roof?
Many developers who want to save some money on construction strive to purchase the cheapest materials, but at the same time, so that the quality of the entire building does not suffer much from this. This is possible if you use primitive two slopes as a rafter system, corrugated sheets as a covering, and make the roof cold.
The design features of such a roof can be listed on one’s fingers, since there is no need to lay thermal insulation mat material, vapor barrier layer and other components often found on insulated roofs. If you all doubt the savings, then it is safe to say that cold version the cost will be 50-60% less than an insulated structure. In addition, the work can be carried out independently, therefore, the savings will increase even more.
The cold roof pie, in most cases, includes the following products:
It is worth noting that all metal surfaces have one similar feature: they collect condensation. Waterproofing included in the roofing pie with cold roof This will correct this problem and protect the room from incoming moisture both from the outside and from the inside. Many developers, when constructing an insulated roof, advise their friends not to lay a vapor barrier layer if they build a building with a cold type of roof. They think that the cold will remove the condensation that is visible on metal products, but they are very mistaken.
Condensation appears due to the temperature difference between the roof space and the external environment. Naturally, when the attic is not heated and is not insulated in any way, the difference will be small, but still it is sufficient to provoke the release of moisture from the air. As you can see, condensation will form regardless of the type of roof, therefore, the question posed at the beginning of the paragraph can be answered unequivocally: yes, it is necessary.
An example is outbuildings whose owners do not care much about their service life. In such buildings, the roofing pie is the most primitive and even violates building codes. Most often, a roofing pie consists of rafters, sheathing and roofing. All layers of vapor barrier and waterproofing were simply thrown away. Despite this fact, this building can stand for a significantly long period, or, conversely, it can collapse in just a couple of years. It depends on your luck, but why take risks if you can do everything in a high-quality manner?
You cannot afford to take risks on residential buildings, as someone’s life may depend on it. I'm not exaggerating, because if condensation affects rafter system and other roofing elements for a long time, it will simply destroy them, which can lead to the fall of the entire roofing pie.
IMPORTANT: If at the beginning of construction you decide to build cold roof, but in the future after a certain period you will insulate it, then it is most advisable to lay micro-perforated film as a waterproofing product. Its properties are practically no different, but the price tag is much lower than membranes.
If you are laying a micro-perforated product, then such a layer will block the access of moisture from the outside, but at the same time water vapor can pass through this area without problems. It can be said that laying vapor barrier products on roof slopes in this case is optional. After steam penetrates inside, it ends up between the waterproofing material and the metal coating, from where it is removed by natural ventilation.
IMPORTANT: When a dense waterproofing film that retains water vapor is used, this leads to a significant increase in air humidity and, as a rule, dampness in the room.
At high humidity air, condensation processes begin, so moisture accumulates on the back side of the film and penetrates all roofing materials. Due to this fact, for the construction of a cold roof it is not recommended to use materials such as polyethylene and polypropylene, roofing felt, and glassine.
The ventilation system for cold roofs is quite simple. To create it, gaps are left, which, as a rule, are located along the eaves overhang. Air masses pass through them, collect all the humidified air and remove it through the cold triangle located in the ridge part of the roof.
The counter grille is a design to provide additional ventilation. Most often it can be found on difficult roofing systems, where products with a high degree of waterproofing are used as coatings, for example, metal, bitumen shingles and others. The gap that is created by installing counter battens allows fresh air dry the roofing pie on both sides, so structures with such a pie last much longer than others.
First of all, it is worth noting that outbuildings differ significantly from residential buildings both in their structure and volume. The vast majority of developers are trying to save money on the construction of secondary structures, so the issue of waterproofing is more relevant than ever. Before answering the question, let's look at the coating. Today, corrugated sheeting is one of the cheapest materials, so I will talk about buildings covered with it.
Manufacturers different countries strive to produce such products so that the whole world can use them. If you are a fan of corrugated sheets, then today such material is a sheet of metal with an anti-condensation coating.
In appearance, it is practically no different from its analogues. A synthetic composition is applied on the inside; it resembles felt. Due to the large number of pores, this material is capable of retaining up to 1 liter of water per square meter. After the surface has been saturated with moisture, ventilation comes into play and if it is carried out according to all the rules and regulations, the drying process will not take much time.
Thanks to the installation of such a “tricky” coating, the need to lay a vapor barrier and waterproofing layer is eliminated, but it should be understood that the weight of such a coating will vary depending on weather conditions. When making the necessary calculations, it is very important to take these parameters into account and use them in the calculations. It is worth noting that a finished roof will be much cheaper, because it will not contain almost half the roofing pie.
So, based on the information received above, you understand that waterproofing material is laid regardless of the type of roof and functional purpose the buildings. However, if you want to save money, you can use roofing coverings with an anti-condensation layer, but not all people like metal coatings, so I will now tell you the general principle of laying waterproofing.
IMPORTANT: Before installing the sheathing, it is very important to treat its elements with special protective solutions, which will increase the degree of ignition of the wood and protect it from rotting.
Most developers strive to cover as much length as possible with one strip of corrugated sheet. This is justified by the fact that in this way fewer joints are obtained, therefore, the waterproofing qualities of the entire roof are significantly increased. You can do all the work yourself, but to increase efficiency it is better to invite 1-2 partners.
When building or renovating a private house, roof installation is one of the most important stages. If it is not designed correctly, precipitation will accumulate on it, which will create an extra load and contribute to the deterioration of the roofing material. If you lay the roof incorrectly, then moisture will get into the seams and over time it will leak into the house, and if you do not insulate the roof from the inside, then cold air it will very quickly enter the room and will not allow it to be fully warmed up by any means, that is, it will be impossible to live in such conditions all year round.
Physical factors: impact
Any house that is used for housing must meet certain requirements to make living in it cozy and comfortable. It is important to lay the foundation correctly so that the house does not shrink or crack, insulate it and build a roof. The choice of covering is very important because it determines the weight that is applied to the house, the time it takes to complete the covering work and the cost. In addition to all this, it is necessary to take care of insulating the inside of the roof so that the structure of the house remains as reliable as possible and the residents feel comfortable at any time of the year.
In different climatic conditions buildings are influenced by a variety of factors.
Our latitudes will be characterized by:
To withstand all these negative factors, the roof must be covered with sufficiently dense materials that can reliably protect the house for many years.
A private house is a structure that consists of a main floor and an attic. If the roof is not insulated, then up to 15% of the heat from the room escapes through the ceiling in cold weather, which makes it necessary to intensively heat the rooms. In addition, having an insulated attic, this space can, if desired, be made residential and used as rooms for a specific purpose. For a large family this is an ideal option.
Processes inside
In order to properly insulate a private house and to make the roof a full-fledged protective mechanism for both the main room and the attic, you need to be able to choose the right material for insulation. Usually the selection is based on physical processes leaking inside, under the roof.
There are several of the most important ones.
When insulating the roof, you can protect yourself from temperature changes inside the room, because the insulation has its own temperature, which is often slightly higher than that on the street, and does not allow the heat of the building to escape outside, which will eliminate the need for additional heating, which requires reserve funds.
Insulating layer helps prevent condensation, which is formed when hot and cold air come into contact, so laying it together with insulation will help preserve it appearance and performance. Properly performed work increases the service life of the building almost twice and minimizes the need for repair work Every year.
Necessity or whim?
A private home often has a pitched roof that creates an attic space on top of the main living floor. If there is no insulation, then living in such conditions will be very uncomfortable due to the lack of heat during the cold season. If the attic is designed as a residential floor - the same attic, then the insulation process must be mandatory.
Any roofing material cannot protect as much as polystyrene foam, mineral wool or another type of coating. In addition to the insulation itself, it is important to use vapor barrier film, which will cope with various types of fumes.
If you ignore the installation of an insulating coating, then in addition to the cold in the house, very soon problems will begin with the roof rafter system, which will rot and there will be a risk of collapse. The same effect can be observed with incorrect installation technology or inaccurate choice of insulation. If you choose the wrong thickness of the insulation, then instead of protection it will have the opposite effect. Under normal conditions, when there is a difference in temperature, protection is provided against condensation and heat loss, which makes it possible to feel comfortable in any weather.
If the thickness is compromised and thin insulation is selected, excessive heat will form on it. a large number of condensation, which will contribute to rapid rotting of the rafters and disruption of the microclimate of the room.
Failure to comply with standards is dangerous for both health and safety, as the roof structure may collapse. The choice of material that needs to be insulated depends on a wide variety of factors that are important to consider in order to be able to independently install what is needed. If difficulties arise with the choice of insulation or its installation, it is better to contact professionals and receive comprehensive advice and assistance in installation.
Roof “pie”: what is it like?
A properly constructed roof involves a large number of layers of different materials that are layered on top of each other, resembling a pie - hence the name. The basis of the construction “pie” is the rafters, on which all other layers are already being laid.
To correctly lay out all the layers, it is important to know their correct sequence, which looks like this:
If you lay the “pie” correctly, you can avoid heat loss from the living space during the cold season, and it will also help prevent the space from overheating in extreme heat. The waterproofing layer will help protect the insulation from moisture coming from outside, and the vapor barrier layer will protect against various types of fumes.
Pitched roof is a fairly common type, so it will not be difficult for her to select all the necessary materials. The positive aspect of high attics is the convenience of insulating them and the ability to create a full-fledged living space.
Without additional work, it will be extremely unpleasant to be in it - it is very cold in winter, and too hot in summer.
Requirements for materials and their functions
To carry out quality work, it is necessary to choose the right materials. It will depend on them how accurately it will be possible to create comfortable living conditions and secure the roof supports. The choice will depend on the region where the building is located, its size, purpose, as well as the funds available to purchase materials.
There are four main methods of insulation.
Among the disadvantages, one can note the rather high cost, but it is fully compensated by the positive aspects.
People with allergies will not be able to live in such a house, so you need to be able to choose the right type of internal insulation coating.
Usually this type is used when other options cannot be used.
If we consider alternative options, then among them there is polyurethane foam, which can be used in two states - in the form of slabs and foam. It is advisable not to take slabs for arranging the ceiling, because working with them is inconvenient and they are very expensive. At the same time, liquid or foamed polyurethane is easy to apply and has a number of advantages. With its help, you can fill voids of any shape and size; cracks and opening lines are very well clogged. If other materials need to be cut and achieved maximum fit, then in this case the foam will fall on its own, the main thing is to distribute it correctly and evenly.
It is very convenient to use foam for roofing made of slate or broken structures when there are many differences on the roof and the frame has significant differences. Another significant advantage is the independence from hydro- and thermal insulation, which are not needed for polyurethane foam. In addition, the material has excellent flammability resistance, which ensures home safety.
How to choose?
When choosing a material for insulation, it is important to understand what exactly you should pay attention to, what indicators will play a decisive role in the selection of one type or another.
The main criteria are:
Having considered all these indicators, the best option would be to use mineral and glass wool. Glass and mineral wool are sold in the form of rolls or slabs. It is safer to insulate with mineral wool, because it is more resistant to fire.
If we consider modern insulation materials, the most advanced technology would be roof sheathing with foam flex. This is a durable and lightweight unit that can be easily installed on any surface, be it a wall or ceiling. You can cut the desired piece with a regular knife.
In addition, the storage conditions for penoflex are also distinctive; they can be kept outside at any temperature, but it is better to have packaging on it.
It is convenient to use polystyrene foam, which is also called penoplex, in rooms with unfavorable conditions, because it is not afraid of them, and various microorganisms will not begin to develop in it. Environmental friendliness is a very important feature this insulation. It does not emit any harmful odors or fumes and is completely harmless to both adults and children.
Preparation
To carry out insulation procedures, it is important to clearly understand what type of roof you will be working with. By correctly determining the order of work, you can quickly and efficiently insulate the roof. It is also worth considering the materials that will be at hand during work. It is important to clearly understand for yourself what exactly you have to work with and what to do.
If the insulation process has become completely clear, then you can cope with absolutely any roof, be it a rural house or a large villa by the sea. In order to carry out insulation work, it is important to prepare the roof itself for this.
There is a specific procedure for this, which includes:
As soon as the roof is ready, you need to check the availability of all the materials that will be used for insulation, prepare the tools, and only after that you can get to work. The work process has its own rules and patterns that you need to know in order not to make mistakes and get a good and high-quality result.
The process step by step: how to do it?
In order for the work to proceed quickly and efficiently, it is important to prepare well, read articles on the topic, watch videos in order to clearly see what is done and why during the work on internal roof insulation.
The algorithm for carrying out the work comes down to four points.
If you need to insulate a room as efficiently as possible, the mats are laid, moving to the side with each row.
The technology of work will be similar, be it a dacha, where the house has a flat ceiling, or a large Vacation home, where it is built gable roof. Right choice materials and installation in the right sequence will give the desired result.
Attic floors
When choosing insulation for an attic floor, you need to take into account its thermal protection, strength and resistance to adverse environmental conditions. It is also important to take into account the type of flooring and the material from which it is made. Concrete and wood have their own characteristics.
The process of installing insulation depends on the material, if it is mineral wool, then it is better to use thick layers (about 20 cm), but if you want to create increased thermal insulation, you can increase the thickness to 30 cm. The wool is laid only after the vapor barrier has been placed. It is best to lay it under a ceiling made of boards or timber so that they do not absorb moisture and rot. If it was not possible to lay a solid piece of vapor barrier, it needs to be glued with tape.
After this, work begins with the insulation, which is placed in a wooden frame so as to fill all free places. Once the mineral wool has been placed, waterproofing is laid on top, which prevents the wool from absorbing excess wool. It is especially important to do this if the next step is pouring concrete when the 2nd floor of the building is planned. Instead of concrete, you can make flooring from OSB boards. This is how you can insulate the attic and, if desired, make it a living space.
You can insulate the slopes different ways, the choice of which depends on the design of the rafters, their height and the skills of the person who will work with the surface.
There are only three options for how to insulate a pitched roof:
Insulation pitched roof This is best done using mineral wool mats or a fiberglass base. Roof installation can be done both from the inside and outside. Only the layers and their stacking order will differ. During interior work, the roof is insulated using a layer of waterproofing, on which the insulation material itself is already laid, and after that a vapor barrier tape is stretched.
A sloping roof is a special structure that needs to be properly insulated, especially if the whole procedure will be done by hand. Knowing the technology and correct location layers, you can get a high-quality roofing covering that will protect the house from heat loss and moisture penetration and help create a comfortable microclimate inside.
Flat roof: features of work
If there is a need to insulate a flat roof, then the installation of the appropriate materials is often carried out after the roof is installed. The work is carried out indoors, and after its completion the ceiling height is significantly reduced, which is a noticeable drawback despite all the other advantages.
Before starting work, it is important to think about how exactly the attic space will be illuminated.
We insulate flat roof by packing bars along the entire length of the room, after which they need to be divided into squares, into which the thermal insulation material will be placed. You can hold it in the cells with a cord or by gluing it to the surface, which is less desirable. The cord can be removed when all the gaps are closed with foam, which will hold the insulation in place.
The first layer should always be a thermal insulation layer, and the last one should be a vapor barrier, which in total will give the desired result: dry and warm roof. If you do not use protective layers, the insulation will very soon become unusable and cease to perform its functions.
When the insulation work is completed, you need to pay attention to the wiring. If it is present there, only then proceed with the installation of lamps and decorative decoration of the room.
Useful tips
If the attic appears to be a large and cold room, you can use various types of insulation, after which you can live in this room. Thermal insulation material can be laid both during the construction of the roof and after that. If the roof is already covered with slate or other material, then the work is done from the inside, which changes the arrangement of the layers during the installation of insulation.
When working with glass wool, it is necessary to use protective equipment to prevent glass particles from getting into your eyes or nose. Choice modern materials is not always the most acceptable, if only because of their high cost.
The correct procedure for laying all layers will allow anyone, even a non-professional, to insulate a room.
For more tips on insulating a roof from the inside, watch the following video.
There is no need to install a vapor barrier under a cold roof. In this article we will take a closer look at why this is not necessary.
A cold roof is a rafter system on which waterproofing material is laid. It will prevent moisture from entering the under-roof space and protect the rafter system from premature destruction. Then a counter-lattice is installed to ensure natural ventilation: Air flow enters under the roof and removes excess moisture. Usually a 50*50 mm block is used.
Since there are no significant temperature changes in the roofing “pie”, the dew point will be shifted towards the insulation of the last floor ( warm air will condense in the insulation in front of the attic), so no vapor barrier is needed in a cold roof, but it will be needed before the insulation on top floor, in front of the attic.
Yes, definitely needed. No matter how ideal the roof is, no one is safe from water getting into a microcrack or minimal gap. Such a gap can cause big troubles in the future, especially if access to inner surface hidden: something is undermining somewhere, but where is unclear. In such cases, waterproofing is needed, even if there is no insulation.
If the roof is metal, then waterproofing will protect against premature corrosion. Since the thermal conductivity of metal is higher than that of slate, ondulin or bitumen shingles, condensation will form more often.
Laying waterproofing film carried out with a slight sag (about 20-25 mm) so that the condensate flows freely onto the eaves strip, and from it into the drainage tray. Also, in this case, the supporting structure of the roof will be protected, and a ventilation gap will be provided for effective evaporation of moisture.
Waterproofing films Ondutis D (RV) are designed for waterproofing cold roofs.
The film is a gray fabric with the addition of a protective layer and a UV stabilizer. This film is used for waterproofing cold or insulated roofs with a metal coating. It retains moisture and protects the under-roof space from the harmful effects of condensation and cold air on the inside of the roof.
Ondutis Smart D (RV) is available with adhesive tape applied to the base, which simplifies installation and reliably isolates joints and overlaps.
If installing a vapor barrier in cold roofs is not at all necessary, then high-quality waterproofing is the key to a long and reliable service of the entire roof.
Slate has long been used as a roofing material, and it has not lost its popularity today, especially since everyone can handle roofing work on their own if you know how to cover a roof with slate.
The advantages of this roofing material include:
A slate roof fits any building design, looks beautiful and lasts a long time.
Flaws:
Slate sheets are produced in 6, 7 and 8 waves. The standard sheet length is 1750 mm, the width depends on the number of waves and is shown in the figure, thickness from 5.8 to 7.5 mm, wave pitch 150 or 200 mm.
The height of the ridge (wave) is 40 mm for 7 and 8-wave sheets and 54 mm for 6-wave sheets.
The slate is fastened to the roof using lathing, for which a 60x60 mm block and rafter boards 60 mm or more thick are used. This is explained by the increased load of roofing material on the rafter system. The distance between the sheathing bars is made such that the slate sheet lies on at least two of them with a margin of 15 cm on each side.
For slate roofs, a slope angle of at least 22 degrees is recommended. For single-pitch and gable roofs, the angles of inclination may be smaller, but reinforced sheathing is required. The principle of reinforcement for different slope angles is shown in the figure. A vapor barrier is placed under the slate, especially if it is planned to insulate the roof.
Important! Before laying slate, all wooden structures must be treated 1-2 times with an antiseptic with fire-retardant properties. This will protect them from rotting, fire and extend their service life.
When planning to do the work yourself, it is important to correctly calculate the amount of slate for the roof so that there is enough material and there is no unnecessary waste. For a person familiar with the basics of geometry, such calculations will not be difficult. For a roof with one or two slopes, you will need to measure the width and length of the house, and the angle of inclination of the slope.
It is easier to calculate slate according to roof dimensions, they do it like this:
For hipped roofs, the area of the slopes is calculated geometrically (the area of the triangle and the area of the trapezoid, as shown in the figure), divided by the area of the slate sheet and added 15%.
Important! When buying slate, you should pay attention to its integrity. Sheets of slate should be covered with paper or film. Sheets should be stored on a flat, horizontal surface, protected from moisture and sunlight.
Before you begin work on installing a slate roof, prepare all the necessary tools and a flat area on which you will cut the sheets and drill holes in them. The area should be such that the sheet can be approached from any side.
To install a slate roof you will need: a hammer, slate nails or self-tapping screws, a drill, a grinder or a hacksaw, a respirator, paint for painting the cuts, a stepladder, a ladder, ropes, metal hooks.
Those who plan to do their own roofing often have the question of how to lift slate onto the roof. This is done using a rope and two hooks. The sheet is hooked from below with two hooks to which a rope is tied. The rope along with the slate sheet is pulled onto the roof. You can feed the sheets by hand using a stepladder if the work is performed by two or three people.
Before laying slate on the roof, if necessary, unpainted sheets can be impregnated with a water-repellent composition, painted with acrylic, water-dispersion or alkyd paint. The paint closes microcracks, makes the slate smoother, snow in winter time it rolls off easier.
Depending on the ambient temperature, slate is subject to deformation, so there should be a small gap between the nail and the asbestos cement. It is made by drilling holes in the ridge of slate 2-3 mm larger in diameter than the nail. You can drill these holes at the place where the sheets are laid, if it is more convenient.
The drain is installed before the roofing work begins. Slate sheets begin to be laid from the bottom row.
The sheets are cut with a hacksaw or grinder. The sections are painted over to prevent the asbestos from crumbling.
Attention! You need to wear a respirator when drilling and sawing slate sheets, especially if you use a drill and grinder. It is recommended to pre-wet the cutting area. Asbestos cement dust is harmful to health.
Attaching sheets of roofing material to the sheathing is an important stage on which both the strength of the roof and the integrity of the slate itself depend during operation. It is necessary to keep in mind seasonal deformations and movements of rafter systems and slate, increased loads on the roof in winter.
The slate on the roof is fastened to the sheathing using slate steel nails with a head of 14 mm in diameter or self-tapping screws. The nail head and slate are separated by a metal washer and a gasket made of rubber or other elastic material.
The slate is nailed with a regular hammer. The nails are inserted into a pre-drilled hole and driven in not all the way, but so that the slate does not move. 8-wave slate is driven into the 2nd and 6th waves from the joint, 7-wave slate into the 2nd and 5th, respectively. The sheet is nailed vertically in two places to the sheathing. The distance from the nail to the edge of the canvas is at least 15 cm. Continue this way until the ridge.
Important! It is not recommended to bend nails from the side of the sheathing if they are long. It is better to cut them to the desired length.
If the house has a stove, it is necessary to install a chimney pipe on the roof. For a chimney on the roof slope, the connection is arranged differently depending on whether there is waterproofing or not. If there is waterproofing, a junction made of steel sheet is installed under the slate and film, and if it is absent, it is made in such a way that the upper edge of the steel sheet is under the slate, and the lower edge along the slope is above it. The connection device diagram is shown in the figure.
The installation of the ridge is the final stage of roof installation. The ridge protects the roof from water ingress, provides ventilation, and is decorative element roofs.
The ridge of a slate roof is made of galvanized steel or ready-made ridge elements to match the color of the sheets. Cut out a sheet of galvanized steel of the required width and bend it on a sheet bending machine or by hand so that the bend angle is slightly less than the angle between the sheets of slopes. The same nails are used to fasten the ridge. How to install the skate correctly is shown in the figure.
Installing a slate roof is not a difficult task; it can be done by those who are familiar with a hammer and a hacksaw and have enough time to work. Wave slate costs 170-260 rubles. per sheet, which ranges from 90 to 135 rubles/m2. On average, taking into account fastening materials and waterproofing, the price of a do-it-yourself roof will cost about 200 rubles/m2.
When you don’t have enough time to cover the roof with slate yourself, you can hire a team. The cost of laying slate will range from 150 to 300 rubles/m2. If you need to install a rafter system, heat, steam, waterproofing, lay slate, then the work will cost from 700 to 800 rubles/m 2.
Provided that the work is carried out consistently and carefully, slate roofing will serve for a long time and reliably.
Slate as a roofing material in Lately, of course, has lost some of its popularity, because many new attractive analogues have appeared on the market: from metal tiles to ondulin. Compared to them, he, of course, loses with visual point vision, but relatively many technical indicators and, most importantly, cost, it has a number of advantages. This article will talk about laying slate with your own hands.
Important: slate sheets can be made from pressed and unpressed material. The latter has lower quality indicators than the pressed one, namely:
- lower density (and, accordingly, strength);
- inferior in resistance to temperature changes and weather disasters.
In shape, both types of slate can be flat or wavy. Corrugated sheets are characterized by a thickness from 5.8 to 7.5 mm, and there is also the following gradation:
Benefits more than many people think, namely:
Disadvantages of slate
If before laying slate there is a need to dismantle the old one, then the main thing here is human factor(correct distribution of roles) and a convenient tool, because the process does not create any particular difficulties.
The slate installation process itself consists of three main stages: preparatory work, creating sheathing and laying sheets in the chosen method.
The distance between the beams also depends on the quality of the slate:
It is important that this distance is the same throughout the roof.
If beams of different widths are used (which is also acceptable), then the widest ones should be placed near the ridge and in those places where the sheet joints occur.
There are two main ways to install slate:
The last option is the most popular, because easier to use.
Of course, when purchasing slate in a store, you can always get both detailed instructions from the manufacturer and advice from a knowledgeable manager. They all boil down to the following stages of work:
This method, as already mentioned, is more labor-intensive. But the roof surface laid in this way turns out to be very smooth, without unnecessary gaps and, accordingly, its service life will be longer than that created by the “staggered” method. In addition, material consumption will be noticeably less.
Stages of work
The first sheet is secured in the same way as in the “running” method. Next, the sheets are mounted with an overlap equal to the cut size (at least 120 mm). The top row overlaps exactly the same as the bottom row. In this case, the places of cuts of the upper and lower rows of sheets located diagonally should coincide, and the gaps between them should be 3-4 mm.
Laying slate video
Of course, slate roofing, like any other roof, must be cleaned periodically. It is especially important to ensure that moss does not appear; antiseptics, which in most cases are included in slate paints, are very helpful in this matter.
The roof can be made from flat, and wave slate. Flat slate recommended for roofs with a large slope.
But anyway geographical location should be taken into account region.
The surface of the slate sheet is different on both sides. On one side it is more corrugated, on the other side it is smooth. When laying slate on a roof, the smooth side should be on top.
This is necessary for snow in winter rolled off the roof with ease and did not create blockages, which could lead to water leakage through the overlaps.
Calculate the number of sheets of slate required for covering it is necessary to take into account the overlap, both horizontally and vertically.
Start laying slate need to be on the side opposite to the prevailing winds in this region.
With normal installation on each sheet of slate, except for the outer ones, two corners located diagonally are cut off in order to reduce the thickness of the overlap.
When laying offset, when the next horizontal row moves half the width of the slate sheet, this is not necessary.
The main thing in roof insulation begins with the installation of slate. To do this, waterproofing is laid under the slate, usually roofing felt. But you can use other materials intended for this.
The roof should be insulated from the inside, i.e. from the attic or attic side. For insulation, it uses various materials, such as mineral wool and polystyrene foam.
Using mineral wool in a roll you need to secure it between the rafters in one or two layers using metal staples. It is better to use special blocks made of mineral wool, they are more convenient for installation.
On top mineral wool or blocks, a vapor barrier is laid. This is a special material that allows moisture to pass through in one direction and does not pass in the other, so you need to ensure correct installation.
The side that does not allow moisture to pass through should be on the outside. The vapor barrier is interrupted directly to the rafters. This membrane does not need to be pressed tightly against the insulation; it should knit a little.
Below and above near the ridge there must be holes for ventilation.
On top of this vapor barrier need to do additional sheathing. Stuff the bars lengthwise along the rafters, and slats across them. They can be attached interior lining: plywood, chipboard, etc.
Insulation with expanded polystyrene occurs according to the same scheme, The seams between the plates must be filled with foam.
For that to dismantle slate you need to have a nail puller, a wooden block, ropes with attached hooks, two guide boards or beams for safe lowering of sheets.
The slate roof should be dismantled in the reverse order of installation. The first row to be removed is near the ridge. The nails must be removed with a nail puller, having first placed a wooden block under it so as not to damage the slate sheet.
The sheet must be lowered along the guides, hooking it at the bottom with two hooks with ropes. It will be better if you make a special hole in the slate with a nail for the hook.
And also watch a video about waterproofing slate roofing:
