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» How to properly remove old floorboards. How to remove old parquet. Preparing to dismantle the wooden covering

How to properly remove old floorboards. How to remove old parquet. Preparing to dismantle the wooden covering

Wooden floor like any natural coating over time it becomes unusable. There is a need to remove it and replace it with a new one. How to properly dismantle old flooring? How opening up wooden floors without the help of experts? These and other questions concern those who want to make home renovations with their own hands.

Why open up the floors?

During long-term use, the wooden parts of the base of the floor, the plank covering of the rough and front layers rot, dry out, and turn into dust. The main enemies of natural products are high humidity, insects and small rodents.

Due to the presence of too much moisture, the tree becomes moldy and becomes covered with fungus. During the destruction process, an unfavorable microclimate is created in the room. People may experience allergic reaction. Breathing mold is harmful. It is especially important to protect children from such danger.

Moldy boards do not look aesthetically pleasing. Blue stains disrupt the beauty of the natural wood pattern. It's difficult to hide them. No construction cosmetics help.

Pests erode wood, turning it into dust. Mice chew holes in it. This makes walking on the floor unsafe. The damaged boards receive cold air. Your feet get cold on this floor. Maintain in winter comfortable temperature indoors is problematic.

In addition to the main reasons for replacing a wooden floor, there are others:

  • severe wear of the coating as a result of intensive use;
  • errors at the construction stage of the building, incorrect installation of the foundation, rough and finishing flooring, violations in the ventilation system;
  • Low-grade material was initially used to install the floor, which became deformed during the installation process.

These reasons are the basis for replacing old ones wooden parts new.

Methods for dismantling old wood flooring

Before, how to open wooden floors, you should examine the coating and study methods for its dismantling. The choice of technique depends on the condition of the underlying floor elements, conditions for waste disposal, planned material costs for repairs.

  1. If the survey reveals many well-preserved elements, they can be used in the construction of a new covering. The main condition is to preserve their integrity during the dismantling process. To do this, it is important to carry out the work carefully, trying not to damage the boards.
  2. Material that is absolutely unsuitable for reuse is completely removed and disposed of. Care is needed here so as not to get hurt on the wood chips or get your hands splintered.

Attention! When dismantling old wooden elements work in thick gloves with a comfortable tool.

Dismantling boards and then using them allows you to save money when purchasing construction and finishing products. The calculation for the purchase of new floor elements is carried out after its opening.

How to open a wooden floor

Dismantling wooden covering carried out in several stages.

Preparatory work

If the removal of old boards is carried out in an apartment in a multi-storey building, it is accompanied by certain inconveniences for the neighbors. High level noise, a lot of dust, small and large debris.

To avoid troubles for yourself and others, work is carried out at the time specified by law, when the noise level can be exceeded. This period is from Monday to Friday from 7.00 to 22.00. On weekends, it is better to avoid noisy activities or start them no earlier than 8.00. To avoid conflicts, you should notify your neighbors about your decision to carry out construction work.

A respirator is used to protect the respiratory tract from dust. To protect your eyes, wear special plastic glasses. Dirty work should be carried out in work gloves and overalls.

The room where the floor will be dismantled is cleared of furniture, decorative elements. Doorway are closing damp cloth or plastic film. This will prevent the spread of dust throughout the apartment.

On preparatory stage It is important to prepare garbage bags and think about where to take out large fragments. To dismantle old boards you will need a simple set of tools:

  • a nail puller or screwdriver if the boards are screwed on with self-tapping screws;
  • compact metal scrap;
  • hammer;
  • hatchet;
  • mites;
  • hacksaw (jigsaw).

If the base for the floor is concrete slab, should be prepared cement-sand mixture to repair chips and cracks.

Well-preserved elements that can be used again must be cleaned of paint, varnish using a wire brush or grinder. Before dismantling, it is recommended to number them to maintain the same order.

Main works

  1. Removing the baseboard. The floor edging begins to be removed from doorway. Wooden baseboards are usually secured with nails. The location of the fastener head is found on the bar. Here, carefully insert a crowbar and slightly lift the product. This is done along the entire length of the baseboard. Using a hammer, lightly hammer it down to expose the nail head. Then the fasteners are removed using a nail puller. The removed strips are disposed of or used when carrying out other repair work. Long items can be cut to make it easier to carry and store.
  2. In the presence of ventilation holes closed with a special metal grill, the cover is removed. It can be reused.
  3. Floor disassembly begins with the first board from the wall, adjacent to the wall opposite the doors. The boards, screwed with self-tapping screws, are released using a screwdriver. This happens quickly, without much difficulty. However, most older decking was nailed to wooden beams(lagam). Taking them out is more difficult and takes longer, as they do it manually. The time required to remove nails increases if the removed boards are intended to be used in the future. They must be preserved without damage.

To carefully open a wooden floor, lift the first board 1-1.5 cm with a nail puller or crowbar, pushing it into the gap between the wall and the floor. Start from the middle, gradually moving to the edges. The raised piece is hammered back into the joists to expose the nail heads. Use a nail puller to remove the fasteners and pull the board out of the tongue-and-groove joint, being careful not to damage the horizontal joint. Do the same with other parts.

If the boards are not reusable, they can be split, cut, removed more aggressive methods. Chips and large fragments are placed in bags and taken out of the room.

After removing all parts, they are inspected. Good products leave, damaged ones are cut and disposed of. Boards for secondary use are cleaned and treated with special protective equipment to extend their service life. Be sure to examine the condition of the lag. If they are unsuitable for further use, they are replaced with new products of similar dimensions.

Carry out an autopsy wooden floors not difficult. Dismantling old boards can be done alone without the involvement of additional labor. This will significantly save the budget for all repairs.

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Wooden floors in residential areas have been and remain one of the most comfortable and beautiful. Even the most expensive laminate cannot replace a warm and pleasant to the touch natural massif. But you need to be able to preserve the beauty of wood. To do this, you need to protect the wooden surface with varnish, oil or oil-wax.

Back in the first half of the 20th century, it was a tradition in noble houses to regularly rub it into the wooden floor. wax mastic. And this was done very in an original way- the legs on which they are worn special brushes. This process was very funny, but over time it got pretty boring. As a result, wooden floors began to be covered with parquet varnish, which required updating every 5-7 years. It was much easier to care for varnished parquet than waxed parquet. It was enough to wipe it with a damp cloth. Parquet varnish creates a durable, impermeable film on wood that is resistant to abrasion and moisture. Thanks to the advent of durable parquet varnishes, parquet itself has become very popular among the masses.

It seemed that the problem of parquet and other wooden floor coverings had been solved. The varnish allows you to preserve the texture of the wood, protects floor coverings from mechanical influences, moisture and penetrating contaminants. And indeed it is. But even the thinnest varnish film actually isolates natural wood from humans. That is, no one will notice if, for example, plastic parquet is hidden under the varnish. Moreover, not a single molecule of the substances that make up the plastic will escape from the “varnish capsule.” In general, in the struggle for naturalness, varnish began to lose ground, and they were looking for an alternative. However, don’t go back in time, dancing on the parquet floor with brushes on your feet! At the same time, it is impossible to leave a tree without protection. An exposed wooden surface will quickly become dirty and take on a sloppy appearance. There is a dilemma. Hence the beginning of the struggle between various protective compounds, one of which remains the same varnish.

Lacquered floor

Block parquet, engineering and solid board, coated with several layers of varnish, is reliably protected from contamination for a long time. In addition, the varnish makes its texture more contrasting and expressive, and also gives the flooring a shine or matte finish. When choosing a varnish, it is important not to make a mistake and take into account many factors.

Modern varnishes are divided into two main groups. There are varnishes on water based and based on organic solvents. Water-based varnishes are rightfully considered the most environmentally friendly, since they do not emit toxins and pungent odors during their application, and also - harmful substances during operation.

The main function of varnish is education protective film on the surface of the wood. The polymer base of varnishes is provided by the presence of polyurethane, acrylic, acrylates or combinations thereof. Polyurethane varnish is considered the best because it has the highest durability, elasticity, strength and abrasion resistance.

The varnish should be applied to a primed base. The primer is matched to the varnish and wood. As a rule, varnish and primer are elements of one system. Primers are colorless or tinted. In addition to imparting color to the wood, they provide excellent varnish adhesion.

Today, the wooden coverings offered by the market are represented not only local breeds, such as oak, cedar, ash, but also exotic ones. And if our wood generally accepts varnish normally, then among the “exotics” there are very capricious species. These include, for example, merbau, which contains salts. When applying water-soluble varnish to a merbau floor, the salts dissolve with water and form unsightly stains. In order not to spoil such a floor, it is recommended to open it with varnish based on organic solvents, if the quality protective coating I chose varnish.

Some exotic species, such as teak, iroko, olive, contain a large number of oils Water-based primers and varnishes do not adhere well to them, since oil is known to repel water. Typically, the use of water-based varnish for these breeds leads to the appearance of many cloudy spots. These are oil pockets that cannot be covered with varnish.

Experts recommend using the recommended primer + varnish combinations to protect wooden floor coverings and not experimenting with independent selection. Today, systems from such manufacturers as ALPINA, ADESIV, BONA, Lobadur WS, PALLMAN, NEOPUR, TIKKURILA, VERMEISTER have proven themselves well.

Advantages of varnish coatings:

  • wear resistance;
  • protection against moisture penetration into the wood structure;
  • resistance to mechanical stress;
  • protection against pollution;
  • maintainability.

Flaws:

  • sensitivity to temperature and humidity fluctuations;
  • accumulation of electrostatic electricity;
  • repair requires removal of the old varnish coating.

Parquet oils

Oil as a means of protecting parquet floors has fans and opponents. But it’s clear to answer which is better: varnish or oil? - it is forbidden. These coatings should be considered in the context of the specific flooring material.

Among domestic consumers in Lately parquet boards have become extremely popular. Reasonable price for this type flooring And natural look did their job. However, the working layer of natural wood parquet board small, and usually 4 mm. If you open a parquet board with varnish, then each scraping will take away at least 0.5 mm from it. Accordingly, after 20-25 years the working layer will become so thin that the floor will have to be replaced. Piece parquet can survive dozens of scrapings, and therefore this type of flooring can last up to half a century.

Based on considerations of service life, it is more profitable to coat the parquet board with oil (or oil-wax). The thing is that the oil does not form a film on the surface, but is absorbed into the structure of the wood. To renew an oiled parquet board, no scraping is required - you just need to open it with another layer of oil. But there is one thing. Oil impregnation protects well from moisture and various pollutants, but does not protect wood at all from mechanical stress, in particular abrasion. Therefore, oil should be used in rooms with low traffic, where significant loads are not placed on the floor covering. Thus, the oil is well suited for coatings in bedrooms and children's rooms. And in hallways and living rooms it is better to use varnish.

Good oils for wooden floors are produced famous brands: ADESIV, BONA, LOBA, OSMO, TIKKURILA, VERMEISTER.

Advantages of oil processing:

  • deep penetration;
  • does not peel off or crack;
  • resistant to temperature and humidity fluctuations;
  • antistatic properties;
  • ease of application;
  • efficiency of local repairs.

Flaws:

  • afraid of getting liquids;
  • need to update every 1-2 years.

Oil plus wax

Combination of wax with modified natural oils gives a unique effect in protecting wood. Oil-wax is a technically complex material that provides comprehensive protection. The oily component saturates the wood, fills its pores, and the wax forms a protective water-repellent film. In its properties, the wax layer is close to the varnish layer based on an organic solvent.

Modern oil-waxes are easy to apply. If pure oils need to be rubbed into a wooden covering, then technologically advanced oil-waxes can be applied with a roller, like varnish.

In operation, oil-waxes have proven themselves better than oils. Wooden surfaces treated with pure oil may remain stained if water spilled on the floor is not cleaned up immediately. The oil fills most pores, but some remain open. Through them, the wood absorbs water and darkens. The reverse process (evaporation of water) takes a long time, but the stains still do not completely disappear. But water does not penetrate through the wax film, thanks to this, floors treated with oil-waxes are suitable even for kitchens and bathrooms.

Oil-waxes have very high adhesion to wooden surface. Moreover, the adhesion force exceeds mechanical strength the oil-wax itself. This means that under various loads, peeling of the oil-wax is prevented - its layer will rupture earlier. With varnish, the opposite happens - first of all, the varnish film peels off. The mentioned property of oil-wax can be very useful in cases where a wooden floor covering is regularly exposed to changes in temperature and humidity conditions. Such unstable conditions are most often characteristic of country houses, where the owners live only from time to time.

Another advantage of oil-waxes is that they are compatible with almost any type of wood, including exotic ones. The salts and oils contained in “exotics” do not conflict with oils and waxes, so there is no need to be afraid of surprises.

Advantages of oil-wax:

  • structural and surface protection;
  • saves natural look wood;
  • does not allow spilled liquids to pass through;
  • does not crack, does not peel off;
  • antistatic;
  • low consumption during processing;
  • possibility of local update.

Flaws:

  • requires regular updating (every 1-2 years).

How to care for wood floors

All wooden floors require special care. If you want them to always look perfect, you will have to remove debris and dust from them daily. Wet cleaning is carried out no more than once a week. In this case, the rag must be wrung out well so that there are no puddles left on the floor. Ideally, a wooden floor should dry within 1-2 minutes after wet cleaning.

Most manufacturers of protective compounds for wooden floors offer special means to care for them. These can be washes and polishes. Detergent helps remove dirt with minimal dampening of the rag, and the polish provides shine, a dirt-repellent effect and an additional protective layer.

Wooden floors exposed to oil or oil-wax require periodic renewal of the protective layer. This is done quite easily, but all the furniture will have to be removed from the room. You can update the floor in parts, setting aside furniture and putting it in place after processing the area. When applied repeatedly, oil-waxes are simply rubbed with a device similar to a mop. After drying, they are absolutely safe for people and animals. The waxed floor is pleasant to walk on bare feet. Oil and wax do not actually insulate us from the wood. The frequency of layer renewal depends on the intensity of use of the coating.

Proper dismantling of an old floor or floor covering is, as we know, prerequisite successful implementation work related to their updating. In our article we will try to tell you how to remove the old floor without resorting to the help of third-party specialists, while significantly saving on repair work.

It is known that floors in modern apartments Most often they are arranged as follows:

  • pure concrete bases with synthetic coverings made of carpet, laminate or linoleum, which we all know, laid on them;
  • wooden floors made from individual boards or from stacked parquet;
  • tiled floors.

Preparatory activities

Before you begin dismantling the floor, you should prepare the most necessary tool, the choice of which is determined by the type of floor covering. But in any case, special means of protecting the body and respiratory organs will be required, which are mandatory when carrying out work of this class (respirator, cotton gloves and headgear).

To avoid the spread of dust throughout the apartment, doorways It is advisable to secure a piece of dampened cloth, and lay mats soaked in water at the thresholds. In addition to this, you will definitely need:

  • ordinary nail puller;
  • assembly hammer or sledgehammer;
  • screwdriver, pliers and pliers;
  • electric jigsaw or saw for cutting long boards.

Note that to dismantle the floor from tiles(ceramic granite) you will additionally need to prepare a chisel and a hammer drill. Floor coverings laid using carpet, as well as laminate or linoleum, are much easier to dismantle, especially if they are simply laid on a concrete base (without glue).

Removing skirting boards

It is customary to begin dismantling the flooring with the removal of baseboards, which can be plastic (with a cable channel built into them) or wooden. We begin disassembling plastic blanks by removing the decorative strip and removing the elements fastening the product to the wall. We remove wooden skirting boards sewn to the floor using a nail puller, and dismantling should begin from the corner of the room.

If the baseboard is thoroughly painted over with several layers of paint, you first need to find a place where it can be easily “pryed off” with a flat screwdriver, after which you can use a nail puller. To avoid damage to the wall decorative covering and for the convenience of fixing the position of the tool, a small wooden plank(bar).

Before removing old wooden floors, you should familiarize yourself with the order of their placement on joists laid on a concrete base. When carrying out this work, certain difficulties may arise with the removal of the first board, after dismantling which the process will go much faster. To facilitate this operation, you should clear the gap between the floor and the wall and use a nail puller to pry up the end board in this place.

All other floorboards are fairly easy to remove and can be removed using a hammer or large flathead screwdriver. To remove nails driven into boards, you can use previously prepared pliers.

In the presence of circular saw All operations for dismantling wooden floors are noticeably simplified. With its help, it will be possible to cut individual “floorboards” into smaller pieces, which will be much easier to remove from the disassembly site.

For cases where the floorboards are fastened with self-tapping screws, you need a screwdriver that allows you to quickly remove the fastening elements.

Removing concrete screed

For removing concrete screed you will need to remove it first decorative coating, used for flooring. And only after that you can proceed to its dismantling, which is usually done by impact. For these purposes you may need the following tool:

  • classic jackhammer;
  • hammer drill with a special attachment;
  • sledgehammer, chisel or scrap metal.

Note that the use of a special impact power tool significantly reduces dismantling time concrete foundations in premises of any category. But when carrying out it, personal protective equipment must be used to protect the person’s respiratory tract and eyes from dust generated during work.

When preparing for dismantling, do not forget to prepare bags made of durable material in which you can carry out broken pieces of cement-concrete screed and debris associated with any dismantling.

Video

This video shows how to dismantle a wooden floor:

This video demonstrates the process of demolishing an old concrete floor with a jackhammer:

As a rule, to repair a floor covering, the first thing we need to do is dismantle it. Depending on the type of coating, the algorithm for removing it may vary greatly. But in this article we will consider an example of dismantling a wooden floor.

How to dismantle a wooden floor?

  1. To disassemble the floor, first remove the baseboard. The most common option is wooden baseboard secured to the floor with nails.
  2. We dismantle it from the edge, that is, not far from the corner of the room. We take a nail puller and, together with the first fastener, insert its pointed part under the baseboard. In order to reduce the pressure on the floor boards that the nail puller will exert during operation, you can place a piece of plywood on it. The plinth lifts to a height of 1-2 cm from the surface of the floor covering. If dismantling is difficult, in order to increase the leverage, you can also add additional wooden beam. Also remember that the closer the tool is to the mounting point, the less damage you will cause to the baseboard.
  3. In cases where the heads of the nails were previously puttied, and therefore their location is very difficult to determine, then you can insert the nail puller at a distance of 10-20 cm from corner wall. Usually last fastenings located exactly in these places. Slightly lift the baseboard and determine where exactly the first nail is located. And the second nail, as a rule, should be located at the bend. Working by analogy, we need to remove the entire baseboard strip.
  4. Next, we proceed to inspect the floor covering and if among them you find a board with a smaller width than usual, then dismantling begins with it. In cases where such a board still does not exist, then you need to start with a board that is laid a quarter down.
  5. As a rule, the floor covering is secured with screws. Using a screwdriver or screwdriver, unscrew them and remove all the boards one by one. But in cases where the floor boards were nailed, to remove them, you will again have to use a nail puller. We insert this tool into the gap between the wall and the first board, but the nail puller should rest against the joists. Then we raise the board from the floor level by 1-3 cm, after which we use a hammer and plywood to put it in place. As a result of this operation, the heads of two nails should protrude above the board by approximately 1 - 1.5 cm.
  6. Then use a nail puller (placing plywood under it) to remove the nails. This action be carried out in all areas where boards are attached to the joists. By analogy, we dismantle the remaining boards.
See also:

One of the most important conditions Successful repair work, in particular replacing flooring, is the preparation of surfaces. Whatever the finishing coating, you need to understand that it must be laid on the most flat and durable surface possible. Installing a new coating on top of the old one is unacceptable, as this will reduce its strength, aesthetic and other properties. performance characteristics, which means you need to know how to remove the old floor, and not only know it, but also do it correctly.

For a professional person in this matter, dismantling any old floor covering is unlikely to cause any difficulties, but those who are faced with the need to carry out this type of work for the first time should familiarize themselves with some rules.

Work rules

The work of dismantling old flooring will vary to some extent depending on the type of flooring. Therefore, for a better understanding of the issue, it is better to divide the description of these works into several separate paragraphs.

First of all, you need to understand that work related to the dismantling of indoor coatings will lead to the formation of dust and contamination, so before starting, you need to prepare personal protective equipment. You will need safety glasses or a mask, gloves, a respirator, and garbage and dust bags. In addition, it will not be possible to do without auxiliary tools such as a nail puller, a hammer drill, a screwdriver and a hammer. Then you need to remove the furniture from the room. After the preparation is completed, you can begin the work itself.

If the floor covering was used roll materials, such as linoleum, carpet and the like, then work should begin with removing the baseboards. This structural element must be cleaned around the entire perimeter of the room. It should be noted that it often happens that the nails with which the plinth is attached rust and their dismantling becomes possible only when the plinth itself is completely destroyed. In this case, the remaining nails must be cut off using a chisel. After removing the baseboard, the coating simply comes off the surface, but you need to know that it is best to start from the corner of the room.

In the case when parquet or laminate is used as a floor covering, the floor should be dismantled depending on what type of installation was chosen. If the coating was installed using a floating method, then first, as in the previous case, the plinth is removed, and then the coating is disassembled into individual elements. Moreover, if there is lock connection, then these elements can be reused.

If the coating is fixed with adhesive, then things are somewhat more complicated. In this case, after removing the plinth, it is necessary to beat each element separately using a hammer drill. To do this, you need to install a special attachment on the hammer drill. If there is no puncher, then you can do the work using a crowbar, prying the element from below and tearing it off.

If a wooden floor on joists was installed in the room, then this covering can be removed quite simply. If the boards were attached to the joists with self-tapping screws, then you just need to unscrew them, and the boards can be easily removed. If nails were used, the boards at the fastening point are pryed off with a crowbar and torn off. If you don’t need to save the boards, then you can do it simpler. Using a jigsaw, the boards are cut across and simply torn off. The logs are also dismantled depending on the method of fastening. If they are attached with anchor bolts, then unscrew them. Or you can simply knock the joists off the base using a sledgehammer.

When we're talking about about dismantling a tiled floor, for example, tiled, you should know that the work ahead will be dusty and quite labor-intensive. The tiles are removed using a hammer drill with an attachment or a hammer and chisel. It is important to note that the main difficulty with this type of work is removing glue residues and leveling the base. For these purposes, you can use the same hammer drill.

It may also happen that under finishing coat a plywood leveling base can be placed. Sheets of this material must also be removed, since a new coating laid on top of the old base may begin to creak after a while. If the plywood is screwed with self-tapping screws, then you just need to unscrew them, and if the plywood is glued to the screed, then it is removed using a hammer drill. It must be remembered that it must be placed under acute angle to the surface.

The work of dismantling old flooring is not too complicated from a technological point of view, and it does not matter whether we are talking about removing wooden floors or disassembling a tile floor. It just takes some knowledge and diligence. However, it is important to follow safety rules.