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» How roof and gutter heating works. Do-it-yourself heating of the drainage system and roof Installation of a heating cable on the roof

How roof and gutter heating works. Do-it-yourself heating of the drainage system and roof Installation of a heating cable on the roof

Accumulation of snow on the roof of a house, icing of gutters and the formation of icicles - these weather factors not only damage the roof, but also create a danger for people below. Of course, you can dump the snow cover immediately after it falls and knock it down ice blocks with a long pole, but who can guarantee that the roof and gutters will not be damaged in this way, and that a falling icicle will not cause harm to health or property. But there are very effective method eliminate all these phenomena in one fell swoop. An anti-icing system, which you can install yourself, will melt the snow in time and prevent ice from forming in the most critical areas.

Roof and gutter heating: how it works

The roof and gutters are safe and can perform their functions normally until the air temperature reaches negative values. After this, the process of water crystallization begins, which is accompanied by negative phenomena:

  • Ice forms on the surface of gutters and pipes, which reduces their throughput and prevents the removal of sediment and melt water from the roof;
  • the transition of a liquid into a solid state is accompanied by an increase in volume, which can lead to damage to the roof and drainage main;
  • deterioration in the efficiency of gutters and, as a result, accumulation of water on the roof, causing leaks during active snow melting;
  • the formation of plugs in pipes leads to the fact that water begins to flow down the walls and foundation, worsening appearance structure and contributing to its destruction.

In order for the sediment drainage system to work successfully even in the most severe frost, electric heaters are installed in the most critical places. They prevent the accumulation of snow and the appearance of an ice crust, helping to reduce the mechanical load on the roof and preventing blockages in the path of melt water.

The main function of a de-icing system is to prevent snow and ice from accumulating on potentially hazardous areas of the roof.

Most often, the following elements of drains are equipped with heating cables:

  • snow retainers;
  • collection trays and funnels;
  • gutters;
  • vertical pipes.

In addition, wastewater collection areas near storm drains, as well as trays and other elements of the drainage system, are equipped with electric heating.

Neither mechanical nor chemical methods removing ice and snow. The first requires the use of human resources and special equipment, and cleaning with shovels and ice axes is unsafe for the roof and gutters. The second requires the application of special expensive emulsions to the roof, which must be periodically updated.

Anti-icing system design

The principle of heating roofs and gutters is in many ways similar to the functioning of heated floors. The main element electrical system anti-icing is a heating circuit that includes one or more sections of the heating cable, as well as fastening and insulating elements for its installation. The functionality of electric heaters is ensured by power and signal cables, as well as a variety of switching and switching devices. To control heating, a thermostat, temperature and humidity sensors, a time relay and protection (safety) equipment are used. The anti-icing system can be turned on in simple or smart mode, which provides synchronization with a weather station.

The operation of the heating system for roofs and gutters in automatic mode is possible thanks to a control unit (thermostat or weather station) and sensors that monitor the condition environment

Operating principle

The operation of the heating circuit is simple and reliable. The heaters are turned on based on signals from temperature and humidity sensors, which are installed in shaded areas and the highest points of drains. When the air temperature drops below the set value, the temperature sensor will give a command to turn on the heaters. However, voltage will be supplied to the cable only if the humidity sensor is in a certain state. Heating will turn on only at low humidity values, indicating freezing of the liquid. The power supply will stop when the alarm sensor is in the water. Such an algorithm prevents the system from running idle and contributes to its efficiency.

The functionality of anti-ice systems is ensured by a heating cable, which is laid along the edge of the roof, in gutters and other places where snow and ice may accumulate.

The design of flexible cable elements makes it possible to heat roofs of the most complex configuration. The design of the anti-icing system depends on the climatic characteristics of the region, the type of cable and the degree of thermal insulation of the roof.

Types of heating cables, their advantages and disadvantages

To set up a reliable anti-icing system, two types of heating cables are used:

  • resistive;
  • self-regulating.

Resistance heater

Heating of this type of cable occurs due to ohmic losses in the core, which has high resistance.

Depending on the design, a resistive cable may have one or two heating cores

The heat dissipation of modern resistive heaters is up to 30 W/m, and the temperature can reach 250 °C. The section clearly shows internal structure cable - metal conductor, insulation layer, copper braid and protective sheath. In addition, there is a type of two-core cables with an additional conductive element. Thanks to it, the connection can be made from one end. This greatly simplifies installation and reduces the cost of work by reducing the length of power circuits.

The advantages of heaters of this type include:

  • simplicity of design;
  • stability of characteristics;
  • elasticity;
  • high specific heat release;
  • relatively low cost.

The disadvantages of cables operating on the principle of resistive heating are:

  • difficult installation of the system due to the need to use contours of a strictly specified length;
  • the presence of a “cold” and “hot” end, which causes thermal stresses;
  • possibility of local overheating with reduced heat removal efficiency. For the same reason, cable overlap is not allowed;
  • limited maintainability: if the heater burns out, the section cannot be restored.

Since the power of the resistive element does not depend on external conditions, when using a cable of this type, correct calculation is necessary, otherwise it will be difficult to avoid unnecessary energy costs.

A resistive cable can be connected from one or both ends - it all depends on the number of heating cores

Self-regulating heating element

A self-regulating cable consists of current-carrying conductors placed in a medium made of special plastic. The presence of graphite grains in its composition turns the system into a long chain with many parallel variable resistances. The conductivity of the internal filler changes depending on the temperature, which ensures regulation of the heater power - as the temperature drops, the cable will generate more heat.

Self-regulating cable is a high-tech electric heater

Advantages of self-regulating cables:

  • high efficiency;
  • simplified installation - the heater can be cut into sections of any length;
  • impossibility of local overheating even in places where the heater overlaps, as well as in case of mechanical damage;
  • heat release, which varies along the length of the section depending on external conditions;
  • increased security.

The disadvantages of self-regulating elements include more high price, which, however, is compensated during their operation.

The most effective anti-icing systems are obtained using both types of heaters. Resistive cable, as having a higher power density, is recommended to be installed on flat areas of the roof, and self-regulating cable - in gutters, funnels and drainpipes.

Heating system design

Designing a snow melting system includes selecting heating locations, calculating the required cable power, as well as drawing up drawings, diagrams or sketches. The documentation must contain information about the type and number of heaters for each zone, sensor installation locations and electrical connections.

Selecting heating zones

At the first stage, roof drawings are studied, with the help of which the number and type of heated zones are determined. Experts recommend including the following places in the snow melting system:

  1. Joints of adjacent slopes (valley). The cable is laid in the form of a long loop, which covers from 1/3 to 2/3 of the height of the groove in its lower part. The width of the bend depends on power density cable and ranges from 10 to 40 cm.

    The joints of adjacent roof slopes are equipped with a heating cable laid at 2/3 of their height

  2. Roof eaves with gentle slopes. If the roof has a slope of up to 30 degrees, then the cable is laid in a zigzag at the bottom of the slope, covering the entire cornice and a 30-centimeter section above the projection of the building wall. If the roof angle is less than 12 degrees, then the areas adjacent to the funnels are equipped with heating.

    Next to the funnels, the heating cable is laid on an area of ​​1 square meter. m

  3. Drainpipes. The heater is placed in a riser, constructing a loop that is attached to its walls. When draining into a storm drain, the loop is made longer, taking into account the depth of soil freezing.

    To heat trays and drainpipes, the heating cable is laid in two parallel lines

  4. Funnels. On flat areas of the roof, the cable is mounted so that it covers an area up to 0.5 m wide and is inserted into the water distributor below the level of the attic floor. For funnels that are equipped with risers, additional heating is not required, since the heating of the gutter will be sufficient.
  5. To heat junctions and parapets, one section of cable laid along the structure will be sufficient.

    Various ways of laying out cable heaters can make protection from snow and ice more effective

  6. Trays and gutters require laying two parallel lines along the bottom of the water distribution elements.
  7. Flat roof water jets. The heater is mounted along the bottom and within a radius of up to 0.5 m from their entrance opening.

In addition, the heating cable is laid around the perimeter of the skylights, in a meter-long zone around the water collectors, as well as along the water outflow path. To ensure functionality storm sewer, it is necessary to consider heating the main line up to the sewer.

Not only the roof and gutters are equipped with heating, but also drainage areas, as well as elements of the drainage system

Roof slopes with a slope of more than 45 degrees do not require the installation of heaters, since snow melts off their surface naturally. However, to ensure functionality drainage system all its elements should be equipped with a heating cable in accordance with the rules stated above.

Calculation of required power

The power of the heating cable is calculated based on the area of ​​the individual zones that require installation of a snow melting system. To calculate this value, we are guided by data obtained in practice:

  • in drainpipes with a diameter of less than 100 mm - 28 W/m. The same applies to equipping trays up to 100 mm wide;
  • in drainpipes with a diameter of more than 100 mm - 36 W/m. The same value for laying in trays wider than 100 mm;
  • in valleys - from 250 to 300 W/sq. m (it is recommended to lay up to 2/3 of the height at the bottom of the joint);
  • along gutters - from 200 to 300 W/sq. m;
  • on drip edges and along eaves - from 180 to 250 W/sq. m.

On flat surfaces, install the cable in a zigzag pattern, not exceeding the bend radius recommended by the manufacturer. Using the laying diagram, the length of the cable is determined and, based on the data obtained, the total power of the snow melting system is calculated.

Before installation you need detailed drawing indicating the heating locations and the method of laying the heating cable

Installation of switching devices

To monitor and control the heating system for roofs and gutters, unified modules are used, the design of which provides for the connection of a power wire, heaters, as well as temperature and humidity sensors. The control unit is mounted in a place convenient for monitoring and control. Signal sensors are installed taking into account the need for their inspection and maintenance.

The anti-ice system is monitored and controlled using a variety of sensors connected to an electronic thermostat or weather station

Installation procedure for the anti-icing system

After completing all necessary calculations begin preparatory activities, collect necessary tool and purchase materials and equipment. After this, the installation of the anti-ice system begins.

Preparatory stage

Foundation preparation includes removing inoperative elements of the old snow melting system, if one was previously installed. Places where the heating cable is laid are cleared of accumulated debris and dirt. In addition, the roof is inspected to identify objects and sharp edges that pose a risk of cable damage.

Installation work

Assembling the heating system begins with attaching the electronic module. It is best to use a separate control cabinet for its installation. Installation of other structural elements is carried out in the following sequence:

  1. Install alarm sensors. The temperature sensor should be mounted in a place out of direct sunlight and away from heating, ventilation and air conditioning systems. The precipitation sensor is mounted on an open area of ​​the roof. Humidity sensors are mounted in areas that are first exposed to melt water.

    Alarm sensors are installed in such a way as to ensure their clear and timely response

  2. Lay power and signal cables. Nylon ties and plastic clips are used to secure them. After installation, the conductors should be ringed, and the insulation resistance in the power lines should be additionally measured.
  3. Heating cables are laid. To fix them, use brackets, metal clamps and overlays provided by the manufacturer. You can also use perforated mounting tape, provided that the heater shells are not damaged. When laying, it is necessary to exclude the possibility of free sagging of heating lines in the air.

    To secure the heating cable, you can use a special perforated tape

  4. The ends of the cables are inserted into distribution boxes, the resistance and the absence of insulation breakdown in each section are measured. The minimum value that the megohmmeter should show is 10 Mohm/m.

    For installation and fastening of the heating cable in drains longer than 3 m, a metal cable is used


    A number of operations, such as winding an additional layer of insulation in places where the clamps are installed, sealing the ends electric heaters, signal and power cables, etc., can be performed on the ground or indoors. This will reduce the risk of damage to the roof during installation activities.

  5. Make electrical connections of heating, power and signal cables to each other and to the control unit. The heating sections and control cabinet are grounded.

    Heating cables are connected in strict accordance with the switching and protection diagram

  6. At a suitable outside temperature, turn on the anti-icing system for 1 hour, after which the current consumed by each section is measured. In case of deviation from the nominal values, the causes of the problems are identified and eliminated. To check the performance of water and precipitation sensors under clear skies, it is allowed to water them.

Video: Animated instructions for installing a heating cable

According to SNiP 3.05.06–85, which regulates the installation and operation of electrical devices, installation of heating cables can be carried out at an outdoor temperature of at least minus 15 °C. The installation of heaters must be completed before the first snow falls and ice forms on the roof. The best time The last weeks of autumn can be considered for installation. If, for any reason, the work was delayed until snow caps and ice plugs appeared on the roof and in the gutters, then careful cleaning of the cable installation sites from precipitation will be required.

Installing an anti-icing system is associated with risk, so working without insurance is prohibited

Selection of control and protection equipment

The heating cables are turned on and off within the specified temperature limits and in accordance with the state of the humidity and precipitation sensors at the command of the monitoring and control module. Depending on the complexity and functionality, these devices are divided into two types:


Of course, the first option, due to its design simplicity, costs several times less than the second. Despite this, use it in regions with high humidity is not recommended, since in this case there is a risk of incorrect interpretation of the temperature sensor data. As a result, instead of timely melting of snow, ice deposits may accumulate on the roof.

Weather station of the anti-ice installation and its connection diagram

The weather station does not have these disadvantages, but has more complex design, and therefore less reliable. Nevertheless, choosing this option will allow you to build a snow melting system that can operate automatically and save energy due to more sensitive control.

To protect system elements in case of excess load current or short circuit in electrical diagram install circuit breaker. In addition, they use a residual current device that monitors current leakage through the insulation and, if it occurs, can de-energize the entire system or turn off individual sectors of the heaters.

Reliable, durable operation of the anti-icing system is guaranteed not only by correctly performed installation, but also by regular, timely maintenance. Here are a few operating rules that contribute to trouble-free operation of the equipment:

  1. At the beginning of each season, namely after the leaves have fallen from the trees, the roof and gutters are cleaned of debris and dirt. To avoid damaging cables and sensors, clean with soft brushes. In places heavy pollution use water.
  2. The system is turned on in the outside temperature range from -15 to +5 °C.
  3. Once every three months they do an examination and preventive work, which includes a tightening threaded connections and restoration of damaged insulation. In addition, the functionality of the residual current device is checked.
  4. To protect cables from mechanical damage in places where snow and ice may collapse, barrier structures are installed.

In conclusion, I would like to give advice: do not allow random people to install and maintain the circuit. Only qualified workers who have undergone specialized training know how to handle such a delicate and sensitive system.

Video: how to make a snow melting system with your own hands

With the appropriate knowledge and minimal skills, installing an anti-icing system is not difficult. At the same time, working at height requires utmost attention and composure. In addition, we recommend brushing up on safety precautions when working with high voltage and strictly follow them during installation and operation of the equipment.

During winter thaws and off-season periods, the operation of drainage systems is at risk. Ice forms in gutters and pipes, which can quickly grow and form entire ice plugs. They slow down the drainage system and sometimes block it completely.

In addition, frozen ice increases the weight of gutters, leading to their collapse and rupture. Such consequences can be avoided with the help of anti-icing systems, the main element of which is a heating cable for gutters and roofs.

Let's start with the main concepts. What is a heating cable? It is a current conductor capable of converting electrical energy into thermal energy. The amount of heat generated depends on the strength of the current and the resistance of the conductive material. If you remember the course school physics, then it turns out that any conductor has this ability. But! For an electrical cable, a similar thermal effect is n desirable, therefore, due to the design, they try to reduce it. And for the heating cable it’s the other way around. The more heat it can convert from electricity, the better.

In an anti-icing system, the heating cable performs the most important function heating the drainage and roofing elements, making the formation of ice, icicles and snow canopies impossible.

Electric heating prevents:

  • formation of icicles on gutters and roof edges;
  • blockage of drains with ice;
  • collapse or deformation of gutters under the weight of ice, icicles and snow masses;
  • rupture of pipes under the influence of ice.

Performance characteristics of heating cables

Electric cables for heating drains and roofs operate in difficult conditions - under the influence of moisture, negative temperatures, mechanical loads. Therefore, it is necessary that the cables have the following set of characteristics:

  • the tightness of the shell and resistance to atmospheric moisture;
  • resistance to UV radiation;
  • the ability not to change its properties at high and low (negative) temperatures;
  • high mechanical strength to withstand loads from snow and ice;
  • safety associated with high electrical insulating properties.

Cables are supplied in coils or ready-made heating sections - cut pieces of a fixed length with a coupling and supply wire for connection to the network.

Sections – more convenient option, which is easier to install. Cable in coils is usually used for drainage systems and roofs of complex configurations, for which standard sections are not suitable.

Types of heating cables

Anti-icing systems can operate on the basis of two types of heating cables: resistive and self-regulating. Let's look at the features of each of them.

Type #1. Resistive cables

The most common, traditional option, characterized by the same output power along the entire length and the same heat dissipation. Used for heating gutters resistive cables with heat release 15-30 W/m and operating temperature up to 250°C.

A resistive cable for heating gutters has a constant resistance and heats up equally over its entire surface. The degree of heating depends only on the current strength, without regard to external conditions. And these conditions for different parts cables may vary.

For example, one section of the wire may be in the open air, another in a pipe, and a third hidden under foliage or snow. To prevent ice from forming, each of these areas requires a different amount of heat. But a resistive cable cannot self-adjust and change the degree of its heating. Any part of it will have the same power and degree of heating.

Therefore, part of the thermal energy of the cable will be wasted on heating those parts of the pipe and roof that are already in “warm” conditions. Due to this, the electricity consumption of a resistive cable is always relatively high, but partially unproductive.

Depending on the design, resistive cables are divided into 2 types: serial and zone.

Serial cables

The structure of a serial cable is very simple. Inside it, along its entire length, there is a continuous conductor core, covered with insulation on top. The core is a copper wire.

So that it does not become the cause of negative electromagnetic radiation, a shielding braid is placed over the wire. Additionally, it acts as a grounding connection. The outer layer of a resistive cable is a polymer sheath that serves to prevent short circuits and protect against external conditions.

A feature of a serial cable is that its total resistance is equal to the sum of the resistances of all its pieces. Therefore, when the length of the wire changes, its thermal power also changes.

Since the heat transfer process cannot be adjusted, constant monitoring of the cable is required, including removing accumulated debris. Leaves, branches and other debris can cause the cable to overheat and burn out. It cannot be restored.

Serial cables can be single-core or double-core. A solid conductor has one core. In a two-core - two wires running in parallel and conducting currents in opposite directions. As a result, electromagnetic radiation is leveled, making two-core cables safer.

Serial resistive cables have the following strengths:

  • affordable price;
  • flexibility, making it possible to place the cable on surfaces of various configurations;
  • simple installation, in which there is no need to use “extra” parts.

Disadvantages include stable heat release, independent of weather conditions, and failure of the entire cable due to self-crossing or overheating at one point.

Zone cables

In addition to the usual resistive cable, there is an improved version of it - a zonal (parallel) cable. Its design has two parallel insulated conductors. Around them is a high-resistance heating wire wound in a spiral.

This spiral (usually nichrome) through the contact windows in the insulation is closed alternately to the first and then to the second core. Heat release zones independent from each other are formed. If the cable overheats and burns out at one point, only one zone fails, the rest continue to work.

Since the zonal heating cable for roofing and gutters is a chain of independent heat-generating sections, it is possible to cut it into fragments directly at the installation site. In this case, the length of the cut pieces must be a multiple of the size of the heat-generating zone (0.7-2 m).

Advantages of using a zone cable:

  • affordable price;
  • independent heat release zones, the presence of which allows you not to be afraid of overheating;
  • easy installation.

Disadvantages include stable heat dissipation (as with a serial cable) and the fact that the size of the pieces cut for installation depends on the length of the heating zone.

Type #2. Self-regulating cables

This type of cable has great potential in heating systems for gutters and roofs.

Its structure is more complex than that of its resistive analogue. Inside the element there are two conductive cores (like a two-core resistive cable), connected by a semiconductor layer - a matrix. Next, the layers are arranged as follows: internal photopolymer insulation, shielding shell (foil or wire braid), plastic outer insulation. Two layers of insulation (inside and outside) make the cable resistant to shock loads and increase its dielectric strength.

The main distinguishing detail of a self-regulating cable is a matrix that changes its resistance depending on the ambient temperature. The higher the ambient temperature, the greater the resistance of the matrix and the less heating of the cable itself. And vice versa. This is where the effect of self-regulation manifests itself.

The cable automatically and independently regulates power consumption and heating level. In this case, each section of the cable operates autonomously and, independently of other sections, selects the degree of heating for itself.

A cable with a self-regulating effect costs 2-4 times more than a resistive cable. But it also has many advantages, the most notable of which are:

  • changing the degree of heating depending on environmental conditions;
  • economical energy consumption;
  • low power consumption (about 15-20 W/m on average);
  • durability associated with the absence of the risk of overheating and burnouts;
  • easy installation on any roof;
  • possibility of cutting into suitable pieces (from 20 cm long) directly at the installation site.

In addition to the high price, the disadvantages of this option include long heating times, as well as a high starting current at low ambient temperatures.

Anti-icing system design

As already noted, the cable is the main (heating) element of the anti-icing system for gutters and roofs. But not the only one. To assemble a fully functioning system, the following components are used:

  • heating cable;
  • supply wire used to supply voltage (it does not heat up);
  • fasteners;
  • couplings;
  • power unit;
  • thermostat.

The productivity of the heating system largely depends on the thermostat. This device allows you to turn heating sections (cable) on and off, limiting their operation in a pre-fixed range of weather conditions. The thermostat can determine their value using special sensors that are installed in places largest accumulation water.

A conventional thermostat is characterized by the presence of a temperature sensor. As a rule, for small systems, a dual-range thermostat is used with the ability to adjust the cable on and off temperature.

A specialized thermostat, called a weather station, controls the operation of the system more effectively. It contains several sensors that record not only temperature, but also a number of other parameters that affect the formation of ice. For example, air humidity, the presence of residual moisture on pipes and roofing. Weather stations operate in the mode of established programs and allow you to save up to 80% of electricity.

Heating cable installation

To install an anti-icing system, heating cables are laid:

  • at the edge of the roof;
  • in the valleys;
  • along the line of intersection of the roof and adjacent walls;
  • in horizontal gutters;
  • in vertical drainpipes.

Features of cable laying in these areas have their own differences and features.

On the edge of the roof

In this area, the cable is laid like a snake so that it is above the edge outer wall by 30 cm. The height of the snake in this situation is 0.6, 0.9 or 1.2 m.

When installing a cable on a metal tile, a turn of wire is laid at each lower point of the wave. Installation on a metal seam roof requires a different approach. The cable rises along the first seam to the desired height, then goes down to the gutter on the other side of the same seam. It passes along the gutter, reaches the next seam and repeats the cycle again.


If on pitched roof If there are no gutters, then significant ice growths and icicles can form on its edge. To prevent this from happening, the cable is laid according to one of two possible patterns: a “dripping” loop or a “dripping” edge.

The "drip" loop design assumes that melting water will flow and drip directly from the cable. To do this, the cable is mounted with a snake so that it hangs 5-8 cm from the edge of the roof.

The “dripping” edge scheme is organized according to a similar principle. Only the cable is fixed to the edge of the roof (dripline), laying it traditionally with a snake.

In valleys and at the intersection of roof and wall

Ice easily forms in valleys and other places at the junction of roof slopes. The cable here is laid in 2 threads, along the joint, 2/3 of its length. Due to this, a frost-free passage is formed through which melt water can flow.

A similar method of constructing a frost-free passage is used at the intersection of the roof and wall. Here the cable is also laid in 2 threads at 2/3 of the height of the slope. The distance from the cable to the wall is 5-8 cm, and the distance between its threads is 10-15 cm.


In gutters

In a horizontal trench, the cable is laid along its entire length in one or more parallel threads. The number of threads depends on the width of the gutter. If in a tray up to 10 cm wide it is enough to put one thread of cable, then in a tray with a width of 10-20 cm there are already two threads. For a wider gutter (more than 20 cm), their number is increased by adding one thread for every next 10 cm of width. Lay the cable so that there is a space of 10-15 cm between the threads.

To secure the cable in the gutters, use mounting tape or special plastic clips. It is also possible to manufacture fastenings in required quantities yourself - from a steel strip, which can easily be shaped into a clamp. Clamps and elements of the mounting tape are secured to the walls of the gutters with self-tapping screws. The resulting holes are sealed silicone sealant. A distance of 0.3-0.5 m is maintained between fastening elements.

In drainpipes

Ice often forms in drain funnels, blocking the path for melt water to drain from the roof. Therefore, cable laying is mandatory here. One thread of cable is placed in a pipe with a diameter of up to 10 cm, and two threads with a diameter of 10-30 cm. At the entrance to the pipe, the cable is secured to the walls using steel brackets.

In the upper and lower parts of the pipe, enhanced heating is required, which is carried out by laying additional cable strands - in the form of a “dripping” loop or several spiral turns.

If the length of the pipe exceeds 3 meters, a chain or cable with fasteners is used to lower the cable and secure it. The chain (cable) is suspended on a hook screwed into the wooden elements of the roof or a metal rod fixed to the gutter.

The basic principles of installing a heating cable as part of an anti-icing system are discussed in the video:

It turns out that there is nothing complicated in installing a heating cable. Having understood the simple characteristics of cables and the nuances of their installation, you can build a reliable anti-icing system in a short time.

Consuming very little electricity, this design will help you forget about icicles and ice on the gutters and roof of your house for a long time.

IN winter period And in early spring You can often see huge, menacing-looking icicles hanging on the roof eaves of houses, ice-covered or, even worse, gutters disabled by the mass of ice. Properly organized heating of gutters can prevent such phenomena - protect residents of the house from falling ice from the roof, and protect the drainage pipe system from the need for annual repairs.

In our article, we will analyze the factors influencing the appearance of ice on roof overhangs and gutters, and also describe in detail how to choose a suitable heating cable, its installation scheme, and organize heating of the roof and gutters on your own.

Where does ice appear on the roof and gutters?

Icicles on the roof overhang and ice in the gutter occur due to two main reasons:

  1. Difference between day and night temperatures. This often manifests itself in the spring, when during the day the snow on the roof melts under the influence of the sun’s heat and flows off the roof into the drainage system, and at night, as the temperature drops, it freezes, sometimes forming huge ice dams. Ice accumulations often lead to the fact that the drainage system simply cannot withstand their weight, since it is not designed for it, and becomes unusable, simply breaking.
  2. Exploitation warm roof. So-called mansard roofs, as a rule, are more often susceptible to the formation of ice dams even in winter, since the heated room under the roof provokes, albeit insignificant, heating of the roofing carpet. As a result, the snow melts, and water begins to flow down the roof overhang, and at the colder eaves of the roof and in the drain it freezes again.

Pro tip: It is possible to prevent heating of the roof in winter by organizing a so-called cold roof (with an unheated ventilated attic), as well as by properly arranging the roofing pie - with a properly arranged ventilation gap and sufficient thickness of insulation.

Means for heating gutters and roof overhangs

To prevent the formation of ice, various systems for heating gutters and roofs are currently used, but almost all of them are based on the use of a special heating cable and automation equipment.

Let's take a closer look at what types of heating cables and control equipment exist, and which ones would be preferable for selection.

Which heating cable to choose

There are two main types of heating cables for roofs and gutters:

  • Resistive cable. In practice, it is a regular cable consisting of a metal core and insulation. A resistive cable has constant resistance, constant heating temperature during operation and constant power. Heating of the cable occurs from a closed circuit connected to electricity.

  • Self-regulating cable for heating gutters and roof overhangs is more technologically advanced. It consists of a heating self-regulating element (matrix) that reacts to the temperature of the environment (drainpipe) and changes its resistance and, accordingly, the degree of heating depending on this, as well as an insulating shell, braid and outer shell.

Each type of heating cable is capable of providing the same efficient heating roofs and gutters. However, each of them has its own unique advantages. So, the main advantage of a resistive cable is that it is much more low price compared to self-regulating. At the same time, the second type is more efficient in terms of energy consumption and is unpretentious to installation conditions.

As the outdoor temperature rises, the number of current-carrying paths in the cable matrix decreases, due to which the power and amount of electricity consumed decreases. The temperature of the self-regulating cable also decreases. All this avoids the need to use a temperature sensor that automatically regulates the cable.

Pro tip: It is considered to be the most effective in terms of cost and quality ratio combined system heating cables. Typically, inexpensive resistive cables are used in the roofing portion of the system, while heating of gutters and gutters is provided by self-regulating cables.

As for calculating energy consumption and choosing the power of heating cables, the norm for resistive-type products is a cable with a power in the range of 18-22 W per linear meter, for self-regulating - 15-30 W per meter. However, it should be taken into account that if there is a drainage system made of polymer materials, the cable power should not exceed 17 W per linear meter, otherwise there is a risk of damage to the drainage due to excessively high heating temperatures.

Composition of a heating system for drainage and roofing

In addition to the heating cables themselves, heating systems also consist of the following main components:

  • Fastening elements.
  • Control panel, usually consisting of:
  1. input three-phase circuit breaker;
  2. residual current devices, usually 30mA sensitivity;
  3. four-pole contactor;
  4. single-pole circuit breakers for each phase;
  5. thermostat control circuit protection circuit breaker;
  6. signal lamp.
  • Distribution network components:
  1. power cables used to power heating cables;
  2. signal cables connecting thermostat sensors to the control unit;
  3. mounting boxes;
  4. couplings that ensure tightness of connections and ends of all types of cables.

  • Thermostat. The operation of the cable heating system can be adjusted using two types of devices:
  1. Actually, the thermostat. This device is designed to operate the heating system in a given temperature range. Typically the operating range is set within -8..+3 degrees.
  2. Weather stations. In addition to a certain temperature range, the weather station is capable of monitoring the presence of precipitation and its melting on the roof. The station includes not only a temperature sensor, but also a humidity sensor, and some weather stations are equipped with both a precipitation sensor and a melting (humidity) sensor.

When using a conventional thermostat in a cable system, the user will need to independently turn the system on in the presence of precipitation and turn it off in the absence of it. The weather station allows you to fully automate the process of system operation and even program time delays for its shutdown. However, in terms of cost, conventional thermostats are significantly more profitable.

Heating system installation technology

Heating cable laying areas

The heating cable should be laid in places where melt water drains and in areas where ice forms:

  • One or more threads are pulled along the entire length of the gutters. The linear power of the cable, depending on the diameters of the elements of the drainage system, is selected from 200 to 300 W per square meter.

  • In drainpipes. Heating of funnels and pipe outlets requires additional reinforcement. Typically, two cable lines with a power of 20-30 W per linear meter are laid in pipes, depending on the diameter of the pipes.
  • In roof valleys the cable is laid up and down. The laying length is chosen to be at least 1 m from the beginning of the overhang, but it is better to be 2/3 of the entire length of the valley. The estimated power is 250-300 W per square meter of valley.
  • To prevent the formation of ice on the roof eaves, a “snake” cable laying pattern is chosen. This heating scheme involves laying the cable along the edge of the eaves. In this case, the snake pitch on hard roofs is selected as a multiple of the pattern, and on soft ones - depending on the power consumption per square meter (35-40 cm). The height of the “snake” triangle is chosen so that the heated surface does not have cold zones on which ice can form.
  • Along the drip line on the water separation line. 1-3 strands of cable depending on the drip design.

Step-by-step instructions for installing a cable heating system for gutters and roofs

Installation of heating gutters and roof eaves is carried out according to the following rules:

  1. It is recommended to fasten the cable in gutters using a special mounting tape across the gutter in strips. The greater the thickness of the mounting tape, the longer its service life. The installation pitch of the tape strips is 0.25 m for a resistive cable and 0.5 m for a self-regulating one. It is most often fixed to the gutter with rivets, after which the installation sites are treated with sealant.
  2. In drainpipes, the cable is secured using heat-shrinkable tubing or mounting tape. If the height of the pipes exceeds 6 m, it is better to additionally attach the cable to a metal cable in an insulating sheath to transfer the load-bearing load to it.
  3. In the pipe mark and funnel, the heating cable is secured with mounting tape with rivets.
  4. The cable is secured to the roof using mounting tape and sealant.

  1. The procedure for installing a cable heating system involves inspecting the installation site, which should not have sharp edges or third-party objects that could damage the cable.
  2. Cable sections are checked to ensure their length matches the heating zones.
  3. If necessary, sections are cut to the required size, coupled, laid out and secured.
  4. Install the mounting boxes, ring and measure the insulation resistance of the sections.
  5. Thermostat sensors are installed, signal and power cables are laid.
  6. Install the control panel.
  7. Resistance is measured and power and signal cables are rung.
  8. Testing the residual current device.
  9. Adjust the thermostat.
  10. Perform commissioning work.

So, we have looked in detail at how you can organize cable heating drainage system with your own hands, understood the structure of the system and the rules for choosing its components. We hope that our tips and recommendations will be useful to you and you will be able to put them into practice.

During the transitional time of year from the cold to the warm season, home owners face the urgent question of how to prevent roof icing. Until now, manual harvesting has been considered the prevailing method. But this method is already outdated. Such work is labor-intensive and dangerous, and the results are short-lived. There is a more modern, safe and effective way - heating the roof.

Features and Benefits

Snow and ice on the roof, icicles on the eaves, ice in the drain pipes - all this causes many problems. Significantly increases the load on rafter system, passers-by suffer, architectural elements of the roof are damaged. The corrugated sheet becomes covered with rust; the material from which the gaskets under the fasteners are made is destroyed. When the ice starts to melt naturally, the roof is leaking.

There are several reasons for icing:

  • Incorrectly selected roofing material. Metals, slates and tiles are more prone to ice formation than soft roofing materials or polymer-coated sheets. A textured roof retains more snow than a smooth one, especially with a slope of less than 10-15 degrees. Correctly selected material and a large slope only partly solve this problem, and the method is applicable only for private houses, but not for typical urban buildings.
  • Features of the climate. The weather in many regions of our country is changeable. Ice on the roof can form not only in the spring, but also during the transition period from autumn to winter and even in warm winters.
  • The drainage system is broken. There would be fewer problems with roof icing if all the moisture went down the drain. An improperly designed drainage system, blockages or damage will hinder this process. Most of the water lingers on the eaves and freezes, and the drain freezes along with it.
  • Poor quality roof insulation. Insulating the roof from the inside is necessary not only to maintain a comfortable level of heat in the room, but also to prevent the roof surface from heating up.

The large difference between the temperature of its surface and the ambient temperature is the main reason for the formation of ice. The snow begins to melt and freezes, causing ice masses to form.

The solution to the problem is to regulate the temperature of the roof surface. It should be the same as the ambient temperature. None of the commonly used methods for controlling icicles and ice on a roof work this way.

Management companies continue to send housekeeping employees with shovels and insurance onto the roofs of high-rise buildings. Owners of private houses climb onto the roofs themselves. Both of them risk their health and use tools that damage the roof. Mechanical impact with a shovel wears out the surface of the roofing material. Leaks will form in damaged areas over time.

There is an alternative method: a chemical composition is applied to the ice crust and icicles with a brush, which “eats” the ice. And a completely atypical option for Russia is the use of hot steam. Running on a slippery roof with boiling water in a kettle is doubly unsafe and simply absurd, but professional equipment it is prohibitively expensive. The only effective way to prevent icing of houses is to heat the roof and gutters.

Heating benefits:

  • The system is autonomous and equipped with protective mechanisms. It is connected to a separate RCD and in case of any unforeseen situation it is switched off automatically.
  • Availability of several types of anti-icing systems. They are electric, water and infrared.
  • Easy to set up and adjust manually if necessary.
  • Highly effective in combating icing. The roof, eaves, and gutter warm up, which prevents the appearance of icicles and ice.

  • All elements of the system can be repaired; they can be partially replaced if they break down.
  • The service life of the roofing material increases. Almost all roofing materials suffer from temperature changes. They become more fragile, lose color faster, and the fastening system deteriorates, which leads to leaks. Heating solves all these problems.
  • Installation of the system does not affect the aesthetic appearance of the building. It is not visible from the ground.

The advantages of the system offset the disadvantages, but, nevertheless, they exist:

  • complex installation requires professional participation;
  • high cost of the system and components;
  • costs of electricity and other heating methods - the larger the roof area, the more expensive it will be to operate the system.

Modern technologies

Anti-icing systems come in two types: electric and water. Electric, in turn, are divided into cable and infrared.

Cable

The heating cable based system is by far the most common. Its configuration is quite simple:

  • distribution network;
  • control unit and heating elements;
  • fasteners.

The control unit is the “heart” of the system. It controls all sensors, thermostats and the emergency shutdown system. Sensors determine the level of precipitation and the temperature of the roof and air. If necessary, they automatically start the heating cable.

The distribution network provides communication between all elements of the system and provides power to the cables. This is a kind of conductor from the energy source to the heating elements. The heating (heating) cable is the outer part of the system, which is attached to the roof, eaves, and drain. Elements inside the cable convert electrical energy into heat, causing snow and ice to melt.

The heating cable is available in two versions: resistive and self-regulating. A resistive cable is simpler and costs less. It has a fixed linear power (that is, its ability to transfer heat per 1 square meter of surface area). To heat the roof, you need a cable with a power of 20 W/m when connected to 220-230V. The number that shows the total power over the entire area must be divided by 3, the maximum permissible deviation is 15%.

The cable warms up evenly on all areas of the roof; this feature cannot be adjusted.

Types of resistive cable:

  • Single-core. Its functionality is limited, so the price is the lowest. Inside it there is only one metal core through which electric current passes. It must be connected at both ends. This means that after laying the cable on the roof, its second end needs to be brought back to the control unit and brought together at one point. The cable must be solid and cannot be cut into separate pieces. When installing a branched system, each cable must be returned to its original point for the system to work.
  • Twin-core. As is already clear from the name, there are not one, but two conducting veins in it. The advantage of such a cable is that it can only be connected at one end. The second end, which will remain on the roof, is closed with a sealed coupling. This greatly simplifies installation, although it is more expensive.

The heating cores of the resistive cable are protected by an insulating layer; on top of it there is a copper braid covered with an outer sheath. This multi-layering protects the cable from overheating and freezing, moisture, and mechanical damage. For hard roofing materials (corrugated sheeting, slate, tiles), you can use a cable in any sheath. For materials containing bitumen (roofing felt, ondulin, onduvilla, soft tiles) – only cable with fluoropolymer sheath.

A self-regulating heating cable has an advantage over a resistive one. It is highly sensitive to temperature changes and can regulate the level of heat generated. In the shade it will heat up more than in the sun, in the heat - less than in the cold. This provides high-quality anti-icing and economical electric heating, because energy is not wasted. Inside the self-regulating cable there are copper conductors, a heat transfer regulating matrix, a protective sheath and braid, and on top there is a universal sheath.

The cable can be cut anywhere. Due to this feature, you do not have to overpay for excess footage.

Advantages of cable heating:

  • Cable flexibility. It is convenient to install in small increments and can be used on roofs of any complexity.
  • The device is maximally protected from damage. He is not afraid of temperature changes, overheating, or liquid from melted snow.
  • Heating works as needed, rather than non-stop, which saves energy costs.
  • Warranty and long service life.

Disadvantages of a heating cable:

  • The most effective type is expensive and pays off slowly.
  • Laying cables is a labor-intensive process.
  • Electricity costs are rising.
  • In case of a power outage it will not work.
  • Cannot be used over a large area.
  • The cable should not be exposed to dry leaves or flammable debris. It does not heat up to such a temperature that they could flare up, but as a preventive measure it is better to get rid of them.

Infrared

For the Russian market infrared thermal equipment remains new. It is still difficult to evaluate its merits, since it is used infrequently, especially as an anti-icing system for roofing. And this is a big omission, because IR systems are in many ways superior to cable and water heating. Their main difference is in the method of thermal exposure. Electrical energy is converted by elements into infrared radiation, which has properties similar to sunlight.

The system consists of a base, heating elements, electrical conductors and protective film. The base is made of high-strength polypropylene and a Mylar backing. The first layer is stabilizing and protective, so IR roof heaters are not afraid of moisture and cold, and the second layer acts as a shielding surface so that heat does not escape downwards. The heating elements are made of carbon fiber. It gives off 98% of the heat.

The conductive core is replaced by thin copper-silver plates. The elements are glued together resistant to high temperatures adhesive composition. The upper “shell” protects the system from exposure to the external environment, and the roof from overheating.

Advantages of IR systems:

  • Maximum high efficiency and uniform heat transfer.
  • Simple and cheaper installation than cable systems.
  • You can adjust the temperature in a few seconds with an accuracy of one degree.
  • Economical maintenance. The thickness of the elements is no more than 5 millimeters, so no electricity is required to heat extra layers in the structure.

  • Carbon plates inside the film work like autonomous systems. That is, if one area is damaged, the rest will not be affected. If the resistive cable breaks, it will have to be replaced entirely.
  • To heat the roof, the most reliable protection against moisture has been developed, this ensures its long-term use.
  • IR heating can be installed where it is prohibited to run electrical wiring.
  • Can be protected infrared film individual elements, for example, water pipes. It is convenient to cut the IR film into fragments; for this purpose, cutting lines are marked on it.

Flaws:

  • For all its efficiency, it still runs on electricity. Along with the tariff, costs also increase.
  • The system is subject to power outages.
  • Both film and rod IR heating is a narrow and long polypropylene rectangle, which is inconvenient to install on top of the roof; it must be installed directly under the roofing material, which in some cases is more difficult than laying it on the surface.
  • Difficult to install on a roof with an intricate architectural shape.
  • It will not be possible to heat the drain pipes.

Water

According to the principle of operation, it resembles cable anti-icing systems: pipes through which hot water flows are mounted on (or under) the roof surface. It is presented in two types: a system that operates from an electric or gas boiler, and combined electric water heating.

In the first case, water is supplied to the pipes from a separate boiler, in which it is heated to desired temperature, and in the second, the pipes are already filled with liquid and a resistive cable is installed inside. There is no need for a boiler; the pipes are connected to the control system almost like a cable.

Advantages of water heating:

  • a gas system is tens of times cheaper to maintain than an electric one;
  • does not depend on power outages;
  • it is automated and safe;
  • longer service life than other systems

There are still more disadvantages to water heating:

  • complex system installation;
  • the pipes are thicker and less flexible than the cable, so it will not be possible to roll them in small increments;
  • hot water cools as it moves through the pipes across the entire perimeter of the roof; by the end of the cycle, its temperature may not be enough to melt the ice;
  • if damaged it cannot be restored;
  • Pipes should not be allowed to freeze; they may crack;
  • it is more difficult to regulate the heat level than when using electric heating;
  • The system operates in standby mode - it must be started before icing occurs, otherwise efficiency is reduced.

Options for different designs

Architecture modern houses can be very intricate. There are not only buildings with unusual facades and layouts, but also roofs of non-standard shape. Among the possible options are flat, single-pitched, gable, gable, multi-gable, hip, hipped, attic, dome, spherical, figured. There are even concave roofs.

The more complex the shape of the roof, the more snow masses are retained on it and the more ice and icicles are formed when the snow melts, and the more difficult it is to clean it manually.

Another classification also plays a role: cold, warm and hot roofs.

  • "Cold" roofs are surfaces with minimal heat radiation. It is observed in houses where the roof space is not organized warm rooms(storage rooms, living rooms, recreation areas). Snow melts only with a natural increase in ambient temperature. Cold roofs are usually those with little free space underneath. These are asymmetrical gables, different types tongue-and-groove, complex figured roofs. For them, the minimum power of the heating system is sufficient. Cable heating using a resistive single-core cable up to 20 kV/m is suitable. A water system can also be a good solution, since its efficiency decreases as the cycle progresses and does not provide maximum efficiency.

  • "Warm" roofs are surfaces on which snow begins to melt at slightly sub-zero temperatures due to heat loss. This happens for several reasons: too small angle the slope of the slope, the insulation is poorly installed, there is a technical room under the roof, the house is very old, gaps in the thermal insulation formed naturally. A roof can be “warm” of any shape, but these are mainly spherical, hip and gable roofs, under which heat accumulates. Cable and infrared heating will be the most effective in combating snow and ice. For a small roof area, a water circuit is sufficient.

  • "Hot" roofs are surfaces with the greatest heat loss. The roof can heat up due to inept installation of the insulation system, the presence of a living space and heating system in the attic floor, or the emergency condition of the roof. Or it has a slope of no more than 5 degrees.

Attics under high roofs are usually used as living quarters. gable roofs and mansard roofs. The minimum slope is found only on flat roofs. The snow melts very actively on them, even if it is -10 or below. The water circuit for mansard roofs is inefficient. As an anti-icing system, it is better to use a self-regulating cable with a power above 20 kW/m. Alternative option– finishing of the roof from the inside with roll IR film. This will simultaneously help retain heat inside the living space in the attic.

Heating a flat roof is the most difficult. Besides the fact that the snow flat surface It doesn’t slide anywhere and is actively melting, there is nowhere for the resulting liquid to drain. At minimum slope it simply remains a puddle on the surface of the roof, so it is necessary to install drain funnels. Funnels also need heating. The drainage system can be of two types: traditional using drain holes and gravity-vacuum.

In the first case, the water goes into the drain holes on its own, this happens slowly and requires at least some slope of the roof. In the second, the liquid is literally sucked into the drain system due to the presence of siphons.

For a flat roof, IR heating and a combined system are suitable. Pipe sections are wrapped in film drain system so that they do not freeze, and the cable is mounted on the roof surface in several places. Or pipes and roofing on the underside are equipped with IR film. Maximum system power is required.

Installation subtleties

Installation of anti-icing systems requires training, special skills and strict adherence to safety precautions. This may turn out to be more difficult than expected, so it is better to entrust the work to professionals. If you already have minimal skills in working with electrical equipment, you can connect the system yourself. Installation is carried out in three stages: calculation activities, preparation and installation itself.

Calculations and design

Project development is the first thing you need to tackle when installing a heating system for the roof and adjacent elements. Since installing electrical equipment on a roof is a potentially unsafe home improvement, it must be recorded on paper. With absence project documentation the change will not be considered legal and will become a hindrance when trying to sell the house.

The project is being developed step by step:

  • Measuring the roof perimeter, determining the slope angle and roof type. This data will be needed to determine the required power and amount of materials.
  • Revealing difficult places, in which snow is likely to linger.
  • Calculation of the power of the heating system, calculation of the type of cable and its total length.
  • Selection of components.
  • Applying the layout heating sections on the roof drawing.

Ready project must contain information about how the heating elements are located on the roof, what the total power of the system is, where the RCD is located, whether the requirements of the rules for electrical installations and fire safety measures are met.

The roof area is measured based on its shape. Each side of the slope (if any) is measured separately, and at the end it is summed up into a total number.

Cable laying principles:

Along the cornice

It is important to take into account the slope of the slope and the type of roof. On cold roof with a slope of no more than 15 degrees, heating the drainage system and cornice is sufficient. As the slope increases, the area that needs to be heated also increases. Along the edge of the cornice, the cable is laid in a snake pattern to a height of up to 40 cm. The step at which the cable is rolled up is 10-15 cm for single-core cables, about 30 cm for double-core cables. The distance between zigzags recommended by the manufacturer must not be exceeded.

If the roof is warm and flat, the cable is laid along the edge to a height of 30 cm, as well as along drainpipes. If the roof slope increases, the risk of ice melting increases, so the heated area also increases. The maximum permissible heating zone width for a flat roof reaches 50 cm.

The flat roof is heated along the edge and the water drainage system is heated. If necessary, lay the cable in the center. The width of the heated surface is 30-40 cm. The cable is laid around the drain funnels so that in any direction from the hole it is no shorter than 50 cm. The end is looped inside the drain hole to the level where the air temperature is already above zero.

For a roof with a slope of more than 45 degrees, heating along the eaves is not required. It is so steep that the snow will melt before it freezes. For such a roof, only the drainage elements are equipped with heating elements.

In places where snow accumulates. In problematic areas, the cable is installed in small increments so that the entire surface is heated and no ice remains. Difficult areas include places where parts of the roof slope meet: valley and drainage edges, places where the slope adjoins a vertical surface. According to the height of the valleys, it is enough to lay a cable snake 2/3 of the length. It is important to take into account that in places where it abuts the wall you need to retreat at least 5 cm from it.

By drainage system

It happens that the roof structure does not have water drainage elements as such. If there is no drain, the cable must be fixed along the very edge of the roof using a method called “dripping loop” (for a slope of 15-20 degrees) and “dripping edge” (less than 15 degrees, flat roofs). The hinges are installed with an allowance of 50-80 mm with the expectation that melt water will flow to the ground along them.

If there is a gutter, then the cable is laid both above it, along the edge of the roof, and in it. Inside the gutter it should lie in two or three parallel lines, without zigzags. The end of the cable should loop into the drain. You also need to fix a heating coil inside the drain pipe.

One of the most complex tasks when creating a project, calculate the length and total power of the cable for thawing ice.

The length consists of all the elements that need to be heated. Different roof areas may have different areas. For example, To calculate the heating of the gutter and pipe, you will need to perform several steps:

  • Measure the length of the gutter and downspout.
  • The cable inside the gutter is laid in 2 or 3 rows (depending on the width). Accordingly, you need to multiply the length by 3. This is L1.
  • Inside the pipe, the heating filament is laid in a spiral, so you need to multiply its length by 1.5 or 2 so that it is enough for turns. This is L2.
  • The average power required to heat the roof is 20 kW/m. The total power is calculated using the formula: total length cable * power/square meter. We get: (L1 + L2) x 20 Sq/m.

Lastly, choose the components: fastening elements and a suitable control unit. Then the location of the block is determined. It should be protected from moisture and sun, but located in an accessible location for manual restart repair if necessary.

For fastening, metal and plastic clips, glue, and sealant are used. It is better not to use metal fasteners.

Preparatory work

At the preparation stage, two important tasks are solved:

  • Checking heating system elements for malfunctions and defects. The cable must be smooth, the same thickness at any point, without damage to the sheath, creases or dents. The complete set consists of 3 types of cable (connecting, power, heating), control box, temperature sensors, thermostat and other regulatory elements, couplings, fastening clips.
  • Checking the working surface. The base for laying the cable is cleaned of debris, dust, and dried from water. You also need to check that there are no sharp corners and parts potentially dangerous to the integrity of the cable.

Installation

Both professional installation and DIY installation are carried out in the same stages:

  • Inspection of the cable installation site on the roof.
  • Pre-laying of the cable without fastening with clips, clamps or glue. Can be used masking tape. The basis for installation is the connection diagram included in the project.
  • If the cable sections coincide in length with the heated areas, the excess length can be cut off (for a two-core resistive and self-regulating cable) and closed with couplings.
  • Fastening heating elements to the roof.

Examination

At this stage, you need to install mounting boxes, “ring” the heating cables to check the integrity of the cores, and measure the resistance.

  • If the phrase “ring the cable” raises questions, this is a sure sign that you should not undertake installation yourself.
  • If the test was successful, you can install the thermostat sensors and other cables.
  • Installation of the control panel.
  • Check the remaining cables using the same ringing method.
  • Checking the operation of the security system (emergency shutdown).
  • Final adjustment of the thermostat, commissioning.

In order for the system to work for a long time and correctly, it is important to observe some subtleties during the installation process:

  • Lay the cable in warm weather.
  • Combining cable types helps increase efficiency and reduce energy consumption. The expensive self-regulating one is installed in the drain, and the resistive one is installed on the eaves.
  • Inside drain pipe The cable is laid in coils. Downwards, the distance between the turns is reduced, since the pipe is colder near the ground.
  • Layering heating elements on top of each other is prohibited.
  • Take into account the manufacturer's recommendations when independently setting the lower temperature threshold to turn on the system.

Tips for extending service life:

  • must be carried out annually preventive examination elements of the system and check the resistance value;
  • clean the roof and drains from dust and debris;
  • check the functionality of the sensors and thermostat before the onset of cold weather;
  • adjust the system so that the heating is turned on before an ice crust forms;
  • check the functionality of the RCD and emergency system.

Review of manufacturers

Selecting heating systems on your own can be an overwhelming task. It is difficult to figure out whether you need a resistive or self-heating cable, a thermal or infrared system, and whether there is a difference between anti-icing and anti-icing cables in roof heating. Errors are not critical, but they lead to installation difficulties and increase the cost of system maintenance per season. It makes sense to purchase ready-made kits.

There are still few manufacturers of anti-icing equipment for roofing on the domestic market. But several brands have already gained trust. Among them:

  • German electrical equipment manufacturer Hemsted;
  • the French concern Nexans, specializing in cable and wire products;
  • Thermopads originate from the UK;
  • Polish company Profi Term;
  • American manufacturer Thermo.

Among domestic producers speak positively about the products of the company “Thermal Systems”, “Term” and “SST”.

The cable heating system for roofs and gutters is an anti-icing system, which is based on the use of electric heating cables to melt snow and ice on the roof and in the building's drainage system during dangerous periods - at a time when daily temperature changes occur and ice formation is most likely.

In turn, it is ice that causes roof leaks in the autumn-spring period, as well as the cause of deformation of gutters and drains due to ice and snow accumulated in them.

Since the cable roof anti-icing system prevents the formation and, accordingly, falling of icicles onto the adjacent territory, it is classified as a safety system.

It is quite natural that in 2004 a document of the Moscow Committee for Architecture appeared, “Recommendations for the use of anti-icing devices on roofs with external and internal drains for residential and residential buildings under construction and reconstruction.” public buildings” which directly recommends installing such systems on all new buildings.

Currently, several thousand buildings in Moscow and St. Petersburg are equipped with cable roof heating systems. We have accumulated significant experience in design, installation and operation.

A properly designed and competently installed cable roof heating system with high-quality components prevents ice accumulation and ensures the removal of melt water along the entire route. As a result, the roof itself lasts longer, gutters do not sag, gutters are not deformed, and people and cars in the vicinity of the building are not threatened by falling icicles.

Roof heating in photographs

  • Heating warm and cold roof
    • In the case of a cold roof (having minimal heat loss) it is enough to inspect the drainage system and install heating cables in gutters and downspouts.
    • In the case of a warm roof, it is very likely that installation will be required in other areas: valleys, drip edges (eaves), attic windows, abutments and overhangs.
    • If the roof freezes completely, then installing a CSO may not be economically justified and reconstruction of the roof may be necessary.

    System composition

    The following classification seems to us most successful:

    1. Subsystem of heating elements

    Heating cables for use on the roof are subject to increased requirements:

    • linear power: not less than 20 W/m and not more than 60 W/m at 0°C;
    • resistance of shells to UV radiation;
    • resistance to local overheating;
    • reliable operation in wet conditions;
    • presence of shielding braid;
    • certification of compliance with TR TS 004/2011 “On the safety of low-voltage equipment”;
    • certificate of conformity TR TS 012/2011 “On the safety of equipment for work in explosive environments”* (if the building is located in an explosive area, for example a gas station).

    Resistive cables and self-regulating cables are used as part of heating systems for roofs and gutters.

    The advantages of resistive cables include low cost and stable power characteristics. The disadvantages are the inability to change the lengths of sections and the likelihood of overheating. On soft (surfaced) roofing coverings Resistive cables cannot be used.

    Resistive cables for roofing