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» How to make an attic floor. How to properly make a mansard roof of various types - rafter diagrams. Insulation, vapor barrier and waterproofing of the attic and its construction with drawings and visual photos. Types of mansard roofs

How to make an attic floor. How to properly make a mansard roof of various types - rafter diagrams. Insulation, vapor barrier and waterproofing of the attic and its construction with drawings and visual photos. Types of mansard roofs


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Attic construction attic space allows you not only to increase the living space of the house, but also to make the structure unusual and beautiful. Moreover, a building with this type of roof can be made in almost any style. Roof mansard type, the execution options of which can be very different, are found both in urban areas and in rural areas. Let's look at how to create such a design yourself, and find out what its features are.

Mansard roof - options

This roof has a special slope design, usually consisting of a flat upper part and a steeper lower part. Thanks to this shape, a fairly spacious room appears inside, which can be used as an attic or even turn into a very cozy living room.

The history of attics began in the 17th century, such a roof design was invented by the architect Francois Mansart - it was a derivative of his name that such a roof was named. But this Frenchman was far from the first to implement the idea of ​​economical use of the attic floor of the house. The mansard roof was first built by Pierre Lescot, also a Frenchman, who worked on the construction of such famous buildings as the Louvre and Notre-Dame de Paris.

On a note! In the 19th century, poor people usually lived on attic floors, but now this floor can appear in the housing of fairly wealthy people.

Nowadays, attics are quite often constructed during construction. country houses or small two-story cottages, but the idea can well be implemented when creating other types of buildings. The attic has a number of advantages:

  • it is cheaper to build a house with an attic than with two full floors and a roof;
  • foundation costs during the construction of such a structure are also reduced;
  • an attic can significantly increase the living space of any building;
  • it gives the house an unusual and beautiful view;
  • it is not difficult to build the structure, the work can be completed quite quickly;
  • the attic is always associated with comfort;
  • a house with an attic is warmer by reducing heat loss through the roof.

But attics also have several disadvantages. This type of attic space has sloping ceilings, which results in low wall heights, making it difficult to choose furniture. Also, the roof must be well installed so as not to leak and not let heat out of the house - you will have to spend money on good hydro- and thermal insulation materials. And building attics is still more difficult than, for example, a regular gable roof.

Design Features

The attic is a universal element. It was used both for ordinary houses and for the construction of country houses; often this type of attic space was chosen even for the construction of palaces. Of course, it could decorate workshops, commercial buildings, etc. And despite the fact that they were used for its construction different materials, were chosen different styles, the attic still remained an attic - it has certain design features.

So, this building can have a different geometric shape - triangular, broken, have symmetrical or, conversely, geometrically complex and non-standard slopes. It can be located both across the entire width of the building, and only on one side of it relative to the longitudinal axis.

Prices for timber

On a note! If the roof has a broken shape, then the lower part will have very steep slopes with an inclination angle of about 60-70 degrees, and on the top the slopes, on the contrary, will be flat (about 15-30 degrees).

But whatever the attic, it will be located within the walls of the main building. In relation to the external walls, the attic may be slightly wider, but then it rests on the ceiling extensions. If the offset is large, you will have to install additional supports (for example, columns, walls, etc.).

Height mansard roof it cannot be less than 2.5 m, otherwise it will not be possible to create a spacious room under it. Windows, which also need to be provided here, will be manufactured using special technologies using tempered durable glass and a reliable frame. They will cost several times more than usual. And supporting structures can be made of reinforced concrete, metal or wood. But in the case of the latter, it is important to carefully consider fire safety measures.

The mansard roof is a multi-layer structure, which complicates installation. It can be insulated completely or only in the area where there is a living room - where there is heating. But in any case, the design of the attic implies the presence of rafters, a ridge, the roofing material itself, thermal and waterproofing, and a vapor barrier layer. The interfloor ceiling will serve as the foundation under the roof.

Rafters for an attic roof must have good load-bearing capacity. The cross-section of the materials used will depend on the angle of the roof slope and cannot be less than 5x15 cm at a pitch of 100 cm. If the slope angle is 45 degrees, then a pitch of 140 cm is maintained.

Attention! In areas where it snows frequently and the amount of precipitation is high, it is recommended to install rafters at intervals of no more than 80 cm.

If the attic will be used as a living space, it is important to consider that in this case there is a risk of formation large quantity condensation under the roof. Because of this, pockets of mold may appear inside the structure, fungus may develop, etc. The presence of a large amount of moisture will also negatively affect the insulating properties of the material. That is why it is important to follow all the rules for installing an attic roof, and thermal insulation material must be reliably protected from moisture not only from the outside, but also from the inside, that is, a layer of vapor barrier material is also located on this side.

Important! Don’t forget about creating roof vents that will allow air to circulate quietly inside the roof structure and help remove condensation.

Types of mansard roofs

There are 4 main types of mansard roofs, which differ from each other design features. They can be divided into single-level and two-level. The first ones are the simplest to implement, usually combined with a broken line or gable roof with a slope angle of 35-45 degrees. The second involves the arrangement of two rooms at different levels. A mixed support system is used here.

On a note! When building an attic under a gable roof, the height of the walls can be no more than 1.5 m, followed by sloping ceilings. With a broken-shaped roof, the ceiling height along the perimeter of the walls is up to 2.5 m.

When building a house, you can choose one of the types of attics - a single-level attic with a gable roof, a single-level with a sloping roof, with external consoles, or a two-level with a special mixed type of supports.

Table. Main types of attics.

TypeDescription



In this case, the attic has one level and is located under a regular gable roof. The simplest option, the design of which does not require the use of complex calculations. Rainfall with a simple gable roof goes away on its own, there is no need to equip any additional elements.

In this case, the attic also has one level, but the rafter system is performed differently. It looks like four roof slopes are formed. A much larger room can fit under it, but creating such a roof is more difficult.

Of the single-level attics, this is the most difficult option. Here the room under the roof is even more spacious. Usually in this case the attic room is shifted to one of the edges of the house. This design allows you to make large vertical windows on one side. The main disadvantages are the complex shape and complexity of construction. But under the edge of such an attic you can make a functional canopy where a terrace, garage or other extension can be located.



The most difficult option is the attic, since at least two rooms under the roof are arranged here, located at different levels. When designing a house, such a design immediately becomes part of its structure.

The attic roof can also have a balcony. It is created according to the principle of window construction. The main thing that load bearing capacity walls made it possible to equip it. By the way, the balcony can also be supported by columns, but in this case it is built above the entrance.

Types of rafters for attics

Rafter trusses can be of two types - and layered. You will have to choose between them depending on the method of attachment to the walls of the house. Hanging ones are simpler and are usually used for houses that do not have a middle load-bearing wall. The rafters rest only on the main walls of the house, without intermediate supports. The width of the span between the walls cannot be large - usually it does not exceed 6 m. If the span is larger (over 9 m), then it will be necessary to install struts and headstocks.

Layered rafters are usually used to create houses with two spans, that is, those that have a load-bearing wall in the middle. In this case, the rafters have three support points - directly this wall, as well as the main ones around the perimeter of the house.

Material for the manufacture of the rafter system

Rafters can be made of metal, reinforced concrete or wood. Each material has its own advantages and disadvantages. Wooden rafters are environmentally friendly, they are easy to use, and can be easily adjusted to the desired size. But wooden structures They are afraid of excess moisture and are susceptible to the formation of mold and mildew.

On a note! Before construction wooden materials it is recommended to process protective compounds, which will extend their service life.

Metal and reinforced concrete structures do not need to be coated with such compounds - fungus and mold do not appear on them. Due to this, they are considered more reliable and durable. But the main disadvantage is that, if necessary, adjusting them on site to the right sizes It will be difficult, and the slightest error in the calculations can lead to the fact that the roof will be skewed. Also, a craftsman working with reinforced concrete or metal rafters may encounter other difficulties - this is a large mass of products, which forces the use of special equipment even to lift the elements.

Difficulties and features of arranging an attic roof

When designing and constructing an attic roof, a number of design features should be taken into account, based on which a number of operating rules are formed. For example, the Mauerlat must be secured very securely with anchor bolts. It is he who will experience maximum load, which means keeping the entire roof on itself. It is additionally recommended to wall up the anchors with cement mixture if the main walls of the house are made of stone, brick and other similar materials.

It is also important to remember the correct design and layers of the roof. For example, mansard roofs cannot be covered with metal roofing materials. They get very hot and on the top floor in the summer it will be too hot, there can simply be no talk of any comfortable living. As waterproofing material It is not recommended to use roofing felt - when heated, it begins to smell specifically. It is best to cover the attic roof with slate or soft tiles. For thermal insulation, it is usually recommended to purchase mineral wool, which is laid waterproofing film on both sides.

Mansard is the roof under which the living rooms. The shape of the attic roof can be different, but most often the attic is equipped under a gable roof. Most rational decision, allowing you to get the maximum usable area residential attic is a mansard roof with a broken slope line.

The stages of constructing an attic roof with your own hands are in many ways similar to the construction of a conventional one, as well as the names of the elements that make up its frame. These include:

  • Mauerlat - a support beam that transfers the load from the rafters to the walls of the building;
  • Floor beams - boards that form the attic floor and the ceiling of the lower floor;
  • Racks - vertical supports that support the rafter system;
  • Purlins – horizontal supports for rafters;
  • Crossbars are transverse horizontal elements that tighten the roof slopes together, otherwise they are called puffs;
  • Rafters - boards that form the main contour of the roof;
  • Suspension - a suspended rack that supports the tightening and redistributes the load between the rafters;
  • Sheathing - boards or sheets of plywood designed for laying roofing on top of them and transferring the load to the rafter system;
  • Rabs are boards fixed along the axis at the bottom of the rafters and designed to form a roof overhang.

The cross-section of roofing elements is determined using calculation; the article presents the most commonly used materials in private construction.

Construction of a sloping mansard roof and its differences

As already mentioned, a roof with broken slopes is somewhat different from a simple gable roof. The difference lies in the shape of the opposite slopes: they are not a straight line, but consist of two connected under obtuse angle stingrays The roof can be either symmetrical or have different shapes of opposite slopes - it depends on the project.

Thanks to the broken shape, the usable volume significantly increases attic room. The bottom of the rafters is usually set at an angle of about 60 degrees to the horizontal, and the support posts supporting these rafters act as the frame for the interior walls. The upper part of the rafters is most often installed at a slight angle, from 15 to 45 degrees - this allows you to save materials, but maintain the functionality of the roof and its resistance to snow loads.

Vertical posts resting on floor beams, purlins and tie rods connecting them form a parallelepiped that limits inner dimensions attics. To give the structure additional rigidity, struts are installed between the floor beams and the lower rafters. After installing the upper rafters, hanging supports - headstocks - are installed to strengthen the truss and eliminate sagging of the crossbars. To further strengthen the lower rafters, they are pulled together with the racks using contractions. The elements are fastened using nails and bolts or studs.

Calculation of the dimensions of the attic roof

The main condition for a comfortable attic installation is the ceiling height - it should not be lower than 2.5 meters. To ensure such a height of the room, the break line of the attic roof must be at a height of at least 2.8 meters, taking into account the thickness of the insulation layer and internal lining attic, as well as the thickness of the finished floors.

Before you start purchasing materials and building a roof, you need to draw detailed drawing, which will indicate the overall dimensions of the house, the line of the slopes and the height of the attic.

Drawing - dimensions of the attic roof

Technology for constructing a sloping mansard roof

  1. Install a Mauerlat around the perimeter of the house. IN wooden buildings The mauerlat is the top beam or log. In stone - brick or block - buildings, the mauerlat beams are attached to studs or anchors, fixed in the walls during laying at a distance of no more than 2 meters. The mauerlat is leveled along the inner plane of the wall, and the remaining outside wall is later covered with decorative masonry. Mauerlat timber made from dry softwood usually has a cross-section of 100 or 150 mm. The timber is sawed off to the required length, the anchor pins are straightened if necessary and the timber is placed on top of them. Tapping lightly with a hammer. Indentations from the studs remain on the timber; a hole of the required diameter is drilled along them. You can also mark the timber using a tape measure, but the likelihood of error in this case is higher. Roll waterproofing is laid on the wall; you can use ordinary roofing felt in two layers. The Mauerlat is put on the studs and the nuts are tightened.

  2. For floor beams, coniferous timber with a section of 100x200 mm is usually used. The floor beams are placed either on top of the mauerlat, extending 0.3-0.5 meters beyond the plane of the walls, or in specially designed pockets in the masonry. In the first case, the beams are secured using corners and self-tapping screws. To make the ceilings even, the beams are laid in strict sequence: first, the outermost ones in level, then, by pulling the string, the intermediate ones are aligned along them. The pitch of floor beams is usually from 50 to 100 cm, but the most convenient is a step of 60 cm, which allows you to lay insulation boards without trimming. To level the height of the beams, they are propped up or linings from the board are used. If the beams are placed in special pockets in the masonry, their ends must be processed coating waterproofing and wrapped with roofing felt. Align them in the same way.
  3. Racks are installed on the outer floor beams. The outer racks are made of 100x150 mm timber; the height and installation line of the racks are determined according to a previously prepared drawing. The racks are leveled using a level and plumb line and temporarily secured with jibs in perpendicular directions - along and across the axis of the roof. This will allow you to install the racks without deviation in any direction. The jibs are made from any board and nailed. A string is pulled between the outer drains and the remaining racks are placed along it with a pitch equal to the pitch of the floor beams, that is, on each beam. All racks are secured in the same way as the outer ones. You should end up with two rows of posts of the same height, running parallel to each other.

  4. Purlins from 50x150 mm boards are laid and secured on the racks, the purlins are secured to 150 mm nails and to corners using self-tapping screws. Place crossbars made of 50x200 mm boards on the purlins with the narrow side down - this will increase their rigidity. Since there will be no load on the crossbars during operation, such a section of the board is quite sufficient; however, in order to prevent their deflection and increase reliability during the installation process, when installing the crossbars, temporary supports made of boards no thinner than 25 mm are placed under them. The top of the crossbar is fastened with one or two boards - also temporarily, until the rafters are installed. In this case, the boards should not be placed in the middle of the tightening - there they will interfere with further installation, but retreating about 30 cm. After installing the racks, purlins and crossbars, you have a rigid structure that limits the interior spaces of the attic. To increase its strength, it is subsequently secured with struts and contractions.
  5. Installed from 50x150 mm boards. First, a template is made from a 25x150 mm board - it is easier and faster to process. A board of the required length is applied to the upper purlin, the shape of the cut is drawn directly on the board and it is cut out. Apply the template to the purlin in the places where the rafters are installed, and if it matches everywhere, then the upper part of all the rafters can be made according to the template. The lower part, resting on the mauerlat next to the floor beams, is cut out in place each time. The rafters are secured using corners and self-tapping screws and nails.

  6. To make the upper rafters, you need to mark the center of the roof. This can be done using a temporary stand nailed to the Mauerlat and an extreme tie from the end of the roof so that one edge of the board runs along the center line of the roof. The rafters are aligned along this edge. Next, prepare a template from a 25x150 mm board, placing it at the edge of the installed board at the desired level and to the purlin on which the lower rafters rest. Mark the upper and lower cuts and cut out the template. Apply it alternately to both sides of the roof, checking how accurately its center is marked. If the rows of racks are made in parallel, then there should be no problems with installing the upper rafters - they will all have the same size.
  7. Perform the required quantity according to the template rafter legs. The rafters are installed on purlins and connected at the top using overhead metal plates or cutting boards with self-tapping screws. In the purlin, the rafters rest on the notches and are secured to the corners. In order for the rafters to stand straight, they are secured using struts, installed with the lower end on the ties. This is how all the rafters are placed. Fasten hanging racks– pieces of board 25x150 mm. The upper edge of the board is fixed at the junction of the rafters, the lower edge - to the tie.
  8. Place struts under the lower rafters from 50x150 mm boards, resting them with the lower oblique cut against the floor beam and securing them to the corners, and attach the upper edge to the side of the rafter leg, nail it to one or two nails, then drill a through hole and secure it to a bolt or stud. . After installing the lower struts, remove all temporary supports and posts.
  9. Sew up the gables, leaving door and window openings. If the floor beams are laid in wall pockets, fillies are attached to the lower rafters - boards that continue the line of the rafters and form the roof overhang. When laying floors on top of the mauerlat, the beams already protrude to the required distance, and there is no need for fillers.
  10. , corresponding to the type of roofing - continuous or sparse. Waterproofing is placed on the sheathing and installation of the roof covering, for example, begins.

A broken attic roof usually does not need insulation - only the walls and ceiling of the attic are insulated. The air space created under the rafters ensures good ventilation of the attic, reduces heating of the attic rooms in the summer and provides additional thermal insulation in the winter. Therefore, when covering the gables, it is important to leave ventilation windows in the upper part of the roof, above the attic floors.

Video - instructions for constructing an attic roof


It is difficult to imagine the modern design of a cottage or house without the presence of an attic floor. It is also being built everywhere in old houses in place of a dilapidated attic, thereby increasing the total living space. A do-it-yourself attic is a complex project, but doable.

Do-it-yourself attic construction - first steps

In fact, this is not so - most specialists in the field attic construction unanimously agree that from the angle of inclination and other changes in the design of the rafters, the walls experience enormous load and are subject to significant deformation. Therefore, before making an attic yourself, we highly recommend contacting a specialist so that he can carry out preliminary calculations and, based on them, draw up a design for a rafter system that is suitable in your case.

Construction of houses with an attic - choosing the right technology

Today there are quite a lot of buildings that have a clearly defined attic. This or absolutely new house, where the attic was designed in advance, or it was attached to an old building, which was originally thick-walled and solid. The easiest way to recognize an attic is by its gable sloping roof - this is the most suitable design for building an attic floor.

The use of a gable sloping roof on the walls of a house compared to pitched roof exerts a huge burden. However, for an attic room it is much more convenient, since it creates a lot of space inside.

At the gable broken structure there is a drawback - in the absence of a sufficient number of load-bearing supports, the roof is less strong compared to a single-pitch roofing system, and additional load-bearing supports put additional pressure on the walls. The construction of a gable sloping roof, as a rule, requires the use of layered rafters, which require massive building walls that can withstand vertical and horizontal loads.

How to build a house with an attic - roofing system

The convenience of the attic space determines the ability to move at full height under the rafter system. Please note that for insulation you will need to allocate from 10 to 15 cm from each surface, including the ceiling. So the first impression about the height of the attic may be wrong. However, the safety of the entire structure should be put in the first position. To install additional reinforcing beams, it would be correct to cut off some part of the attic rather than risk destroying the entire roof frame.

Before you build a house with an attic, prepare the necessary tools and materials. Everything is simple with tools: a hammer, a hacksaw or a jigsaw, all kinds measuring instruments. Materials - nails or screws of various lengths, antifungal agent, 40 * 150 mm board for lathing at intervals, for creating a continuous sheathing - OSB sheets.

The type of roof covering determines the design of the sheathing. If you plan to use soft roofing material, then the best option there will be a continuous sheathing, and if it’s hard - by force own hands The sheathing is installed in a staggered manner. In the process of installing a wooden frame (rafters and sheathing), you should immediately make places for the location of roof windows. You also need to think in advance about securely fastening the window frames.

Attic in a private house - auxiliary elements

There are primary and secondary elements of the attic. The first includes insulation, rafters and supporting structures, and the second includes windows, doors and drainage systems. Both play an important role. The hardest thing can be to decide on the windows. Before you start choosing windows for the attic, you need to clearly understand their purpose in terms of functionality. Today, the building materials market offers the buyer two types of windows - inclined and vertical.

It is known that the first ones are mounted directly in the roof plane and transmit 40–45% more natural (sun) light than vertical ones. But in winter, the slanted windows are covered with snow, which negatively affects both the overall illumination of the room and their technical condition. The doors to the attic act as a kind of connecting link between this room and the main building. They should be selected according to two main criteria: the first is strength, the second is good thermal insulation properties.

In addition, the doors should not stand out from the overall interior and there should be a free entrance to the attic through them. Creating an attic with your own hands is impossible without a drainage system. In this regard, it is much easier with vertical windows, since they come complete with ebbs, but when installing inclined windows, you need to carefully consider the gutter system in advance, otherwise the room located under the attic will constantly experience negative impact excess water and moisture.

Do-it-yourself attic - thermal insulation of the room

Considering that the roof slopes are directly affected by atmospheric temperature changes, the attic room must be carefully lined with thermal insulation. It is even more necessary if the roof is covered with metal slate or metal tiles. One of the thermal insulation options is mineral wool slabs, which have a fairly high density and thickness.

This material is environmentally friendly, and also has excellent heat resistance, maximum fire resistance and is easy to install. When laying thermal insulation, you need to create some distance between the roof itself and the insulation; this gap should be left to ensure natural ventilation layer of thermal insulation. Best thermal insulation is considered external - in this case, a layer of insulation, together with a vapor barrier and waterproofing, is laid on top of the rafter system, before the roofing material is installed.

This method allows you to achieve a monolithic coating and avoid the appearance of cold bridges. However, home owners do not always have the opportunity to carry out insulation before laying the roof. In such cases it is used internal insulation. The material is laid in the spaces between the rafters ( mineral wool, polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam) or sprayed onto all structural elements (ecowool, polyurethane foam).

Using all possible space, giving the house originality and significantly reducing heat loss through the roof - these are the tasks that the attic solves. If there is a certain margin of safety at the foundation, in this way you can turn cottage in two-level. Another attractive thing is that you can build an attic roof with your own hands even without special construction skills. It is important not to make a mistake with the choice of materials and do everything according to the rules.

Windows on a regular floor are located in the walls. In attics there are no or almost no walls. They are replaced by a roof. That’s why windows are made special: they not only must let in sufficient light, but also withstand wind and snow loads, which are much greater on the roof than on the walls.

Dormer windows

When planning an attic, you should take into account the recommendations of SNiP. They recommend making the window area no less than 10% of the floor area. So if the attic is divided into several rooms, each should have a window.

Of all the methods shown in the photo for installing skylights with an attic, inclined installation is the easiest to implement. In this case, it is necessary to ensure the proper degree of waterproofing of the junction, and also to use special models with reinforced frames and reinforced glass - the load on the surface can be significant.

Advantages of a sloping roof window:

  • more light, less sharp boundaries of light and shadow;
  • the roof surface remains flat, its relief is not complicated;
  • relatively easy installation.

When planning such a window, it is necessary to remember that its area increases with increasing angle of inclination. At what height is it more convenient to install such a window and how its height increases in centimeters depending on the inclination, look at the photo.

The steeper the slope relative to the floor, the smaller the window height should be.

The width of the window frame should be 4-6 cm less than the pitch between the rafters. Then it can be easily installed without disturbing the structure of the frame. If the window is wider, it is necessary to make a reinforced beam above it and calculate the load.

If you need to have a larger window, it is easier to place two narrow ones side by side. They look no worse than one big one, and there will be fewer problems.

When installing a dormer window, the roof geometry becomes more complicated: a valley appears on top and on the sides. Because of this, the rafter system becomes more complex both during planning and during assembly. The complexity of laying the roof covering also increases. All valleys are the places where leaks are most likely to occur. Therefore, everything needs to be done very carefully. In regions with big amount It is advisable to install snow guards over such windows to prevent them from being blown away in the event of a sudden meltdown.

Installation of a vertical dormer window in an attic roof

The advantage of such a window is that you can stand next to it at full height. But they let in less light, the terrain becomes more complex and the roof becomes more problematic.

A recessed window is usually used if there is access to a balcony through it. In other cases, this method of arrangement is not the best option: little light gets in, the shadows turn out to be very deep, which is tiring for the eye, the geometry also becomes more complex, although not to the same extent as in the previous version.

The easiest way is to make a window at the end of the attic. In this case, a reinforced frame or reinforced glass is not needed. Just high-quality glass is quite enough. This option is most often seen on country attics: This is the most inexpensive option that can easily be done with your own hands.

Rafter system

When independently building private houses with an attic, they usually choose a broken roof. It allows you to get a room of significant area, larger than under a gable.

With the same width of the base (of the house), the attic space under a sloping roof is larger than under a regular gable roof. The rafter system is becoming more complex, but a gable roof with an attic under a sloping roof is still more popular

The design of the sloping mansard roof is such that the overhangs can be lowered quite low, giving the house interesting view. But the long overhang of the roof serves not only a decorative role. They also cover the upper part of the wall from precipitation and divert the bulk of the water away from the foundation. Although when planning you need to keep in mind that in strong winds they increase windage. Because of this, it is necessary to use more powerful boards and beams. Therefore, the size of the roof overhang is chosen based on several considerations, the main one of which is weather conditions.

Tilt angle

Depends on the roofing material, but most of all - on the region and weather conditions. The classic version is shown in the figure: the lower slopes in relation to the plane of the attic floor are inclined by 60°, the upper slopes by 30°. Based on these data and the parameters of your building, you can calculate all lengths. Just take into account that according to SNiP, the ceiling height in the attic cannot be less than 2 m. Then, by definition, this is an attic. A person will feel comfortable if the ceiling is raised to a height of at least 2.2-2.3 m. Based on this, according to the rules of geometry, calculate the required lengths.

At classic version load from precipitation on side surfaces may not be taken into account. Precipitation can only be retained on the upper part, the angle of inclination of which is less than 45°.

In general, the inclination of the side surfaces usually varies between 45° and up to 80°. The steeper the slope, the greater the windage it has, this must be taken into account: in regions with strong winds It is better to make flatter roofs. Then wind loads will be perceived much better.

Types of rafter systems for sloping roofs

The design of a sloping mansard roof is one of the options for the rafter system (the most common)

For making a frame sloping roof with their own hands, they most often use pine lumber, grade no lower than 2. The choice of cross-section of timber and boards depends on the size of the roof, the selected roofing (its weight), wind and snow loads in the region, and the pitch of the rafters. All these parameters are taken into account in the calculation. The methodology is prescribed in SNiP 2.08.01-89 and TKP 45-5.05-146-2009.

One of the options for constructing a frame with hanging rafters

The figure above shows a drawing of a frame with hanging rafters. It can only be implemented if the base of the upper triangle is no more than 4.5 meters (in in this case this is the width of the attic space). If more, you will have to make layered rafters, which should rest on the load-bearing wall in the middle (the attic will be divided into two parts by a row of beams).

Another version of the upper part is shown in the photo below (the picture is clickable). In this case, the side rafters are reinforced with struts. They significantly increase the rigidity of the system.

There is a second way to achieve a similar effect - to establish contractions - in the figure they are only outlined with barely visible lines. The length of the side rafter leg is divided by three, and contractions are established in these places. They will be needed if the roof covering will have a significant weight.

Option for installing a sloping roof truss system - with struts that increase the rigidity of the system

For a building that is small in size, the roof frame can be generally simple: at the top there are two hanging rafters, a tie rod, floor beams, racks and side rafters (pictured below).

Construction of a rafter system for a broken mansard roof for a small house

How to calculate a sloping roof

The attic sloping roof of a small house (no more than 6-7 meters wide) has been built so many times that, based on experience, we can say what materials should be used. Many parameters are dependent on other materials. For example, the installation step of the rafters is tied to the parameters of the insulation. To ensure that there is as little waste as possible during insulation and installation is simpler, it is necessary that the distance from one rack to another be slightly less than the width of the insulation (20-30 mm). So, if you are going to use mineral wool, its width is 60 cm. Then the racks need to be installed so that the gap between two adjacent ones is 57-58 cm and no more.

The width of the board for the rafter leg is again determined based on the insulation. For central Russia required thickness basalt wool is 200-250 mm. That's not all. In order for the thermal insulation to dry, a ventilation gap of 20-30 mm is required (without it, condensation will gradually rot the wood and render the mineral wool unusable). In total, it turns out that the minimum width of the rafter leg should be 230 mm. The thickness of the board is at least 50 mm. This is in regions with light winds and not very heavy snowfalls. To summarize, for all rafters - ridge and side - a board of 230 * 50 mm is required.

If lumber with such characteristics turns out to be too expensive, it will be possible to do the insulation in two directions: partly along the rafters, partly, filling the sheathing, across. You can lay a minimum of 100 mm of basalt wool, therefore you can take a standard board 50*150 mm and leave a 50 mm ventilation gap, or order a non-standard 130*50 mm. Look at what is more profitable for the money.

For racks and beams, it is better to take timber of at least 80*80 mm, better - 100*100 mm. Especially in areas with difficult weather conditions— in case of heavy snowfalls or strong winds.

Order a more accurate calculation from specialists. This is a long process consisting of collecting loads from the roofing material, the structural elements themselves, wind and snow loads. After which, according to a certain formula, elements are selected. For more detailed information on how the calculation is carried out, see the following video.

Do-it-yourself mansard roof: installation procedure

The design of the Mauerlat on mansard roofs is no different from the standard version. If or logs, you can use the upper crown as a mauerlat. It is only pre-treated with impregnation with high protective properties.

If the wall is made of foam blocks, a reinforced monolithic belt is placed on top of it. On a brick wall or made of shell rock or other similar materials, the installation of such a belt is not necessary. Waterproofing is laid in two layers on the wall, and on top is a timber treated with an antiseptic - 150 * 150 mm or a log. It is secured with embedded studs.

When assembling all elements, long nails are used - at least 150 mm long. In the most critical places, it is better to connect three or more elements using bolts or studs with double-sided threads. It is advisable to strengthen all joints with steel plates or corners.

First way

Installation of attic roof rafters is done in two ways. First: they assemble the parts on the ground, then lift them up in finished form. There, the outer structures, which will become pediments, are put up first. They are placed vertically and secured. It is often more convenient to secure them with long bars nailed to the wall (temporary). The following assembled structures are inserted into the prepared recesses in the Mauerlat (they are made at the required pitch). They are positioned strictly vertically and carefully secured. If necessary, additional temporary spacers are installed to fix them in the desired position. Side beams are installed.

How to build a sloping roof in this way and assemble the nodes, see the video below.


Second way

The second method - the construction of a sloping roof is carried out sequentially by assembling elements directly on site. This method is more convenient if the structure is large and when assembled it can only be lifted using special equipment (crane).

First, the floor beams are laid. Stands and ties are attached to them, and temporary spacers are installed to hold them in the vertical direction. Next, the upper and side rafter legs are assembled, and the tie rods and jibs are installed.

During installation, comply with next sequence action: first, the outermost elements are installed and adjusted to the desired position, securely fastened. If necessary, use temporary spacers. A fishing line, rope, and cord are stretched between them, which will serve as a guide for the installation of all subsequent elements. This simple move allows you to get the ideal geometry (don’t forget to check the slope angle, verticality or horizontality).

On top of the racks, tie-downs are attached - bars, to which the side rafters are then fixed and onto which the tie-down of the upper triangle is installed. The ties are secured using metal corners. Since the beams are long, they sag. This is later eliminated - after installing the upper rafter legs - with the help of vertical beams of fixed or adjustable height. And temporarily they can be supported with racks (so as not to pull the entire system).

To make it easier to maintain the desired angle when installing the side rafter legs, templates are made according to which cuts are made. But since the geometry of buildings built with your own hands is rarely ideal, adjustments may be necessary. To check the resulting angle of inclination, another template is knocked down from several boards, which is used to check the correct installation.

If the standard length of lumber - 6 meters - is not enough, either order the required length (expensive) or increase it. When building up, two boards measuring at least 0.6 meters (30 cm on each side of the joint) are nailed to the joint. They are nailed on both sides or bolts are used.

A reliable way to build rafters. The length of the “patch” is at least 60 cm

After installing the side rafters, all that remains is to install the top ones. A template is also made for them, pre-cut on the ground, and installed on top.

The top part can be made in different ways. Its structure depends on the width of the base. How to make it, look at the photo below.

Since the structure of the attic sloping roof does not provide for the presence of a ridge, a beam is placed in the middle to tighten it, to which the slopes are attached, fixing the triangle in the required position.

Nodes and their drawings

When installing a rafter system, questions may arise regarding the assembly of nodes—the intersections and connections of several structural elements. In the photo you see drawings of key connections.

The second option for connecting the side layered rafters and the upper triangle. Bolts are used for more secure fastening.

How to make a do-it-yourself fastening of the upper tee and rafter leg on an attic roof

Methods for attaching rafter legs to the mauerlat or, as in this case, to the side beam are shown in the figure below. To make it easier to mount a heavy element, a thrust board (bar) is nailed to the bottom of the rafter, which limits its movement: the board rests against the edge and does not allow it to sink lower.

Modern people try to make the most of the space in their home. Therefore, the proposal to arrange additional space under the roof is always met with enthusiasm. It is much easier to plan the construction of an attic at the stage of building a house, but you can make an additional superstructure over an old building.

How to make an attic on an old house

The presence of an attic not only increases the living space, but also gives the building a colorful look.

Attic turns Vacation home to a fairytale building

An old house can be updated by building an extension in accordance with existing codes.

The attic addition begins with calculating the strength of the old house

First you need to decide whether the existing foundation and walls can withstand the load of the attic floor and the new roof. If they have a sufficient margin of safety, then you can begin to remodel the house. Otherwise, they should be strengthened.

Old brick walls sometimes seem strong, but with additional load, cracks may appear in the mortar over time. Therefore, it is necessary to immediately examine their condition, and, if necessary, tie them with a rigid belt. This is done as follows:

  • metal pillars with a cross section of 10x10 cm are inserted into the foundation with their lower edge, and connected with the armored belt of the first floor with their upper edge. Installed around the perimeter of the house every 2 meters;
  • metal reinforcement with a cross-section of 12 mm is laid in grooves and tied around the walls of the house: from the bottom of the window every 2 meters upward;
  • A metal mesh with a mesh size of 2x2 cm is laid over the reinforcement, which is covered with plaster after all work is completed.

Strengthening the foundation is done using the strapping method reinforcing belt from all sides.

If the old foundation cannot support the attic, then it must be sheathed with reinforcement

Having decided on the strengthening of the building, you can proceed to choosing a project for the future superstructure. It should look harmonious against the background of other buildings and match the style of the entire house.

The calculation of the dimensions of the internal upper room and necessary materials for construction

There are several types of attics:

  • single-level with a gable roof - low ceilings with a small living space;

    A single-level attic with a gable roof is the simplest type of superstructure for small buildings

  • single-level with a sloping gable roof - increased internal space, but serious costs of money and time for construction;

    A one-level attic with a sloping gable roof is usually built on a brick house

  • single-level with cantilever outriggers - a complex design that allows you to get more more area, since the attic frame extends beyond the building, and the windows are installed vertically;

    A single-level attic with cantilevered extensions allows you to get a lot of internal space by increasing the upper structure

  • multi-level with mixed roof support - used in the construction of a new house, built only by specialists.

    A multi-level attic with mixed roof support is usually not installed on old houses due to the complexity and large volume of work

Video: converting half of an old roof into an attic - an easy way

Remodeling the roof into an attic - comparatively cheap way increasing living space. A private house usually has a pitched roof, so you can make an additional spacious and bright room with your own hands.

Internal wood lining makes the attic warm and bright

And if the house is large enough in length, then the attic can turn into a real floor: with several rooms and even a balcony.

A large attic allows you to divide the area into different living areas

Advantages of creating an attic:

  • the possibility of installing one or more new living rooms;

    It is most convenient to furnish an attic with low ceilings under a gable roof with low sun loungers

  • low costs compared to the construction of a full floor or side extension to the house;
  • updating the external appearance of the building;

    A house with an attic under construction always attracts the attention of passers-by and makes them interested in the final result.

  • opportunity to observe a beautiful view from the attic window.

    A lot passes through the windows in the attic sunlight, illuminating the room all day

However, this solution also has certain disadvantages that must also be taken into account:

  • the need for insulation and soundproofing of the ceiling and a new roof, installation of several double-glazed windows;
  • the difficulty of installing additional heating and lighting in the upper part of the old house - you will have to combine it with home wiring or use an autonomous connection;

    To heat the attic with access to the balcony, you can use a stove-stove

  • planning part of the home space for a staircase leading to the attic;

    The staircase leading to the attic must be fenced for safety

  • the need to purchase special furniture for a sloping roof or purchase squat models: low cabinets, sofas and tables.

    Low furniture is best suited for attic interiors

The presence of sloping walls makes the room unusual and romantic, but with this decision you will have to take a more responsible approach to design development. You can make furniture for the inclined superstructure yourself or assemble a single set from existing multi-level models, painting everything in the same color.

You can make furniture that follows the slope of the attic yourself

So, the main disadvantage of converting an attic space into a loft is that it requires an investment, but it is worth it.

Building an attic will cost much less than creating an additional floor, regardless of what materials are used to build the walls. After all, to create them you will need basic material, insulation and finishing, whereas for an attic superstructure you only need roof insulation and a new rafter system.

The superstructure is made of symmetrical or asymmetrical shape. Internal walls are designed both inclined and vertical.

Having studied the diagrams of single-level attics with different types of roof, it is easier to make a choice when planning

Converting an attic into an attic does not require dismantling all existing structures. But you need to make sure it's reliable ceiling: check its condition, strengthen it with wooden or metal beams, cover it with a new board. Then it will be able to withstand the weight of furniture and people.

For frequent climbs to the attic you will need to do comfortable staircase, provide for the installation of ventilation, natural and artificial lighting, perform interior decoration - all this will allow you to create a cozy and comfortable room.

Superstructure with a sloping roof, decorated in light colors, visually increases the space, and color spots add brightness to the interior

When constructing an attic floor, the following conditions must be met:

  • the rafters are made of laminated veneer lumber with a thickness of at least 250 mm, so that the required amount of insulation can be laid;
  • Foamed polystyrene is used for insulation due to its low weight and high thermal insulation characteristics;
  • a gap is left between the thermal insulation and the roofing material to ensure natural ventilation;
  • A hydro- and sound-proofing layer must be laid.

Converting the roof into an attic with your own hands

During the construction of a house, there is usually a lack of funds, so many people refuse to build a second floor. Or another situation may arise when an old one-story small house is purchased along with the plot. In both cases there is affordable option increasing the living space - rebuilding the attic space into an attic with your own hands.

Creating a Project

Before starting work, you need to draw up a plan and develop a project with accurate drawings. Correct calculation will allow you to get a cozy, durable and secure premises. You can perform all the calculations yourself or entrust it to specialists.

You can draw a plan and develop a preliminary design yourself by studying different options on the Internet

Strengthening the walls and foundation may be necessary if complete replacement rafters If the roof is partially redone, then reinforcement may be necessary only for the ceiling. You also need to immediately decide what types of windows will be used in the attic: the reinforcement in the rafter system will depend on this.

The location of all windows in the attic roof must be thought out in advance and this data must be included in the project plan

Rafter system

Rafters can be layered or hanging. The former rest on the internal walls of the house or additional supports, and the latter on the external walls.

In attics, layered and hanging rafters are used

Hanging rafters are best suited for the attic.

An attic with hanging rafters looks more beautiful and benefits in the size of the internal area

The attic usually occupies the entire space of the attic, and its walls are combined with external ones.

The best option for creating an attic is a layered rafter system

The rafter system consists of different load-bearing beams. To understand the structure of the entire structure and build it correctly, you need to understand the purpose and operation of its individual elements.

Image individual elements rafter system helps to understand the structure of the entire structure

Refurbishment of premises

If the attic height is sufficient, the rafter system does not need to be altered. It is enough to inspect the old rafters, identify possible flaws and eliminate them.

If the rafter system is in good condition, you can begin arranging the floor. Insulation is first laid between the joists, after which the surface is sheathed regular boards or sheets of OSB, chipboard.

The floor in the attic is insulated and covered with boards

Before laying the insulation, all necessary communications are installed between the rafters, and places are cut in the roof for installing windows. carried out before insulation.

All communication wires and pipes must be placed in special corrugations

Care must be taken to create natural ventilation of the under-roof space through vents so that moisture does not accumulate inside the room.

Roof insulation

The roof must be insulated correctly and efficiently - the microclimate under the roof will depend on this. Typically, mineral wool, polystyrene foam or sprayed polyurethane foam are used as insulation.

A thick layer of heat insulation is tightly laid and fixed between the rafters so that there are no cracks or gaps left anywhere. Waterproofing is installed along the upper part of the roof - between the roof and the insulation - and then thermal insulation material is laid on the side of the room. Then the inside of the insulation is covered with a vapor barrier film.

For better ventilation a small distance is left between the roofing material and the insulation: this way air circulates through the holes in the eaves and ridge. If the roof is covered with corrugated sheets, then the gap thickness should be 25 mm, but if flat material, then you need to bring it to 50 mm.

When creating thermal insulation for an attic, the sequence of layers must be strictly observed.

When planning to climb to the attic, you need to take care of the convenience and safety of movement. Therefore, the staircase is usually installed inside the house. It is constructed from wood or metal: it can be either a screw or a marching structure.

The staircase to the attic can be of different types and designs, which allows it to fit into any interior

An opening is cut in the ceiling of the first floor, which is reinforced around the perimeter with metal or wooden strapping.

The design of the stairs to the attic must be strong, reliable, safe and beautiful

Interior decoration

In most cases, plasterboard slabs are used for wall cladding, and the seams between them are plastered. Wallpaper is pasted on top or decorative plaster is applied. Alternative option- lining or natural wood.

If some rafters protrude through the walls into the attic, then they can be designed as decorative elements and even use it as a horizontal bar for hanging a hammock, swing, chandelier and other devices.

Decor visible parts rafters in the interior of the attic - an interesting and creative matter

It is not recommended to use heavy finishing materials in the attic, as they increase the load on the walls, ceiling and foundation of the building.

There are many options for interior decoration of the attic, but it is advisable to use only lightweight materials

To cover the floor, you can use laminate or linoleum, but it is better to avoid tiles or porcelain stoneware.

Installation of the roof of the attic floor

The roof of a residential superstructure must consist of the following layers (the order of arrangement is from the street to the internal space):


Video: why and how to properly lay layers on the attic roof

Calculations of an attic roof for a house

Determining the total weight of the roof

To calculate the total weight roofing materials, necessary specific gravity one square meter of coverage multiplied by total area mansard roof. To obtain the weight of one square meter, you need to add up the specific gravity of all the materials that make up the roofing pie, and multiply it by the safety factor (1.1).

If the thickness of the lathing is 25 mm, then its specific weight is 15 kg/m2, insulation 10 cm thick has a specific weight of 10 kg/m2, and the roofing material ondulin has a weight of 3 kg/m2. It turns out: (15+10+3)x1.1= 30.8 kg/m2.

By existing standards the floor load in a residential building should not exceed 50 kg/m2.

Determining the roof area

To calculate the surface of a sloping roof, you need to divide it into simple figures(square, rectangle, trapezoid, etc.) and determine their area, and then add everything up. To determine the surface of a gable roof, you need to multiply the length by the width, and multiply the resulting value by two.

Table: determining the area of ​​the attic roof

When calculating the angle of inclination, the climatic zone in which the house is located is taken into account, and that it is convenient to move in the attic at full height

It is also necessary to calculate the roof slope. Usually the angle is 45–60 degrees, but when determining it, it is necessary to take into account the climatic zone in which the house is located, the type of attic construction, snow and wind loads, and the architectural design of the house.

The greater the angle of inclination of the roof, the less will be the load on the rafter system, but the consumption of materials will increase.

Calculation of the rafter system

When choosing a rafter system, you can choose the following options:

  • hanging rafters;
  • inclined type;
  • ridge run;
  • combined design.

If the roof length is more than 4.5 m, then support purlins and struts can be used for reinforcement. If the length is more than 7 meters, a ridge beam is installed.

For wooden rafters, timber with a thickness of at least 70 mm is used. Their installation step should be 50 cm.

Over a large area, it is better to attach a metal rafter system: due to the increase in the distance between the rafters, the absence of spacers and struts, the weight of such a structure will be less than that of a wooden one, and the strength will increase significantly.

If the attic area is large, then it is better to install metal rafters

Calculation of the required amount of materials

To carry out the calculation you need to know the following parameters:

  • width, thickness and pitch of rafters;
  • distance from the edge of the roof to the rafters;
  • the size of the sheathing boards and the pitch between them;
  • size, type of roofing material and overlap between its sheets;
  • type of steam, hydro and heat insulating material.

The roof is divided into simple shapes and the required amount of each material is determined. Simple mathematical formulas are used for this.

The results obtained are converted into standard values: for wood - in Cubic Meters, for roofing materials, steam, hydro and thermal insulation - in square meters. And you can go to the store.

Common mistakes

Most often, when doing independent calculations, errors occur when determining the required amount of insulation. If the climatic conditions are harsh, then its volume will have to be increased, otherwise it will not be possible to create comfortable living conditions in the attic.

The insulation is installed on the floor of the house, gable walls and roof slopes. But the thickness of the insulation can be different everywhere.

Video: calculation of a mansard roof with diagrams and load The attic floor allows for additional living space and gives a private home a modern, attractive appearance . It’s not difficult to create an attic with your own hands, you just need to draw up the project correctly, perform calculations and carry out high-quality installation