Spilled floors are a good tradition of a real Russian bathhouse. They are easy to do, inexpensive and, with proper care quite adequately replace a waterproofed base. And walking on the boards is much more pleasant than walking on cold tiles. Therefore, even at the stage of constructing the frame of my bathhouse, I decided that I needed just such floors, pourable ones. It turned out that making them is very simple. Judge for yourself.
The poured floors are wooden, they are made from boards that are not closely fitted to each other, but at a distance of several millimeters. The floor ends up with visible cracks. This is its main meaning: the water used for washing does not stagnate on the boards, but immediately spills through the cracks into the underground space. From here, the water is redirected through the drain hole through the pipe outside the bathhouse. Some bathhouse owners don’t bother and leave this water to soak into the ground. In my opinion, this is a very bad idea.
Yes, it’s simple: you don’t need to waterproof the underground space, do drainage, or take care of the sewage system. But all this simplicity will negatively affect your health and the health of your family. All used water will not be absorbed into the soil and soap flakes with remnants of dirt, bath leaves, and branches will settle on its surface. Let's get a real breeding ground for fungi. And fungi, as you know, secrete huge amounts of harmful substances, causing allergies, pulmonary and many other diseases. So I don’t advise anyone to make a blatant “sewer” under the bathhouse! All used water must be diverted away.
An approximate diagram of pouring floors that you can use as a guide
This is the most important thing in poured floors, take my word for it. It is imperative to ensure a quick outflow of used water into the sewer system so that the subfloor dries quickly, if possible. Otherwise you will get rot, mold, fungi and other “delights” that have no place in the bathhouse. I did this: I removed the inside of the log house fertile layer, poured clay there, and then a gravel-sand cushion, spilled water, and trampled it down. At the same time, the surface sloped towards the wall with a drain below. Then it was time for waterproofing. I used roofing felt - I laid it in one layer on the surface of the subfloor, and I tarred the seams with hot bitumen. In theory, the subfloor has already been waterproofed. The water will go down the drain without being absorbed into the soil, but the surface of the subfloor will remain wet. And this, again, will lead to dampness and fungal growth.
The subfloor must dry completely, and this requires ventilation, that is, a constant influx fresh air to the space under the bathhouse. My log house stands on a strip foundation, so I initially provided for the presence of holes in it - vents. Through them, air penetrates perfectly into the “basement”. The vents should almost always be kept open, closed only when heating and steaming in the bathhouse. Otherwise the whole hot air will go safely outside.
The height of the underground space, from the ground (covered with roofing felt) to the wooden planks of the pouring floor, should ideally be 200-300 mm. Thus, the logs of the wooden floor should not lie directly on the roofing material, but should be raised. This is done by laying them on posts. I installed columns with a height of 270 - 300 mm from brick, placing them in increments of 80 - 100 cm. After this, the bricks were completely plastered with ordinary cement mortar.
I covered all surfaces of the underground space (columns, surface of the subfloor) with hot bitumen. The result is a smooth surface to which leaves, soap flakes and other bath waste do not cling. The purpose of this action was to provide additional waterproofing and ensure the rapid flushing of all kinds of bath waste into the sewer system, so that nothing remained under the floor.
As a lag I used metal channels, covered them with bitumen - it seems to me that they will not be demolished. In general, beams made of hard wood, for example, larch, are traditionally used for lags. They must also be covered with bitumen, otherwise they will rot after a couple of weeks of use.
For the boardwalk, I used 40 mm thick larch boards. They were previously planed on both sides so that drops of water would not stagnate on the fibers.
I laid the boards on the joists with the convex side up (they were slightly warped when drying) with gaps of 5-6 mm. Several floorboards above the drain and near the opposite wall are removable. This solution allows me to lift the boards after washing and clear the subfloor and drain of debris. Additionally, dry the space under the floor so that the floor can last longer.
The boards closest to the wall are removable; they can be placed on edge while drying and cleaning the subfloor.
Finally, I would like to emphasize that if you need a durable floor, then the option with pouring floors won't suit you. Despite all the tricks, ideal ventilation, rules for creating a floor, the wood above the water intake will still rot. Our task is to ensure that this process begins as late as possible. If you encounter the disadvantages of poured flooring in a year or two, you will immediately feel the advantages. They are:
Sazonov Dmitry
The peculiarities of the processes taking place in the bathhouse require the installation of a drainage system in the floor. For this purpose, two options are used constructive solution wooden floor in this building: leaking and not leaking. The first option is suitable for seasonal baths located in areas with a warm climate. To properly make such a floor with your own hands, you need to take into account the basic rules of construction, provide for drainage and drainage, and also select the right materials.
A leaky wooden floor in a bathhouse is one of the simplest and most inexpensive designs. The boardwalk is made from grade 1 or 2 lumber. It fits along the joists. In this case, the flooring arrangement is made in such a way that between the boards there are large gaps(not less than 0.5 cm) for water drainage. Through these cracks, water flows freely onto the foundation under the structure.
If the soil allows, then a sewer system will not be needed. This is usually possible on loose sandy soils which absorb water well. On dense or clayey foundations, you will need to build a simple water drainage system.
The construction of wooden poured floors on logs is best done in a bathhouse on stilts. This will allow for good ventilation of the water drainage area. Although, if you install vents in the base of a strip foundation, then the logs can be laid on the base frame, and the vents will ensure effective ventilation of the underground.
Advantages of pouring floors:
Disadvantages include fragility wooden flooring. Even if high-quality waterproofing And proper ventilation the flooring will begin to rot, and after 6-7 years it will have to be replaced. However, this is not difficult to do, so this disadvantage can be ignored. Another disadvantage is that such a floor is cold, that is, it can only be installed in southern regions with a warm climate.
If you decide to make a leaky floor, then regardless of the foundation design (on stilts, strip or slab), you need to take care of the underground in case of construction on soils with sandy loam, clay or loam. Such foundations do not absorb water, so it is necessary to dig a hole outside the foundation. Pipes need to be laid into it to drain water from under the floors of the bathhouse. At the base of one of the walls of the washing room, a clay key is made - a tray with a slope of the underground surface. Sometimes it is made of concrete, but it will be more expensive.
If the bathhouse on stilts or a strip foundation is located on sandy or sandy loam soils, the pit can be made directly under the structure. Typically, you will need to construct a hole with a depth of at least 40 cm. Its bottom is filled with a mixture of crushed stone and sand to a height of at least 25 cm. The crushed stone filler will break up the flow of water well, and the sand, being a good filter, will absorb and remove moisture into the soil.
Attention: when constructing a bathhouse on piles or a strip foundation, at least 10 cm must remain from the bottom surface of the log to the level of backfilling of the pit.
Sometimes, instead of a hole under the floors of the bathhouse where washing will take place, you can install a special tray. Water will flow into it and be discharged through pipes into a drain, septic tank, pit or sewer system.
When installing wooden poured floors with your own hands, keep in mind that there is no need to nail the flooring to the joists. Fastening is carried out around the perimeter of the room using cranial bars. This way you can ventilate wooden floors(floorings), taking them outside after wet procedures.
From the photo, installing floors in a bathhouse is very difficult to do correctly. To do this, you should know some nuances:
Depending on the length of the lags, additional support posts may be needed under them. They are usually made of brick and have dimensions of 250x250 mm. The posts are installed on a concrete or sand pad. The pitch of the columns is 80-100 cm. The supports are protected with plaster mortar. Waterproofing consisting of two layers of roofing material must be laid under the joists on the posts.
The height of the columns depends on the distance from the ground level to the top of the piles or strip foundation. Taking into account the height of the logs, the distance from the surface of the leaking floor to the ground should be at least 30 cm.
Before laying the logs, you need to prepare a place for them. To do this, the base of the strip foundation or pile is protected with two layers waterproofing material. Then it is laid on top of it horizontal beam, to which the logs will be attached.
If you are making a concrete or wooden floor that does not leak, you will need to make a slight slope for the floor to drain water. To do this, the logs should be laid correctly with a slight slope in the desired direction. To do this, small recesses are cut out in the logs at the place where they are laid on horizontal beam strapping. The depth of the recess in each subsequent element is gradually increased to create a slope of the floors. As a result, the logs will lie horizontally, and the floor in the bathhouse will have a slight slope. Usually a slope of 10 degrees is sufficient.
In the case of a leaky floor, there is no need to slope the joists, because water will already seep into the cracks between the boards.
Tip: laying the foundation for the stove is done after installing the joists before laying the floor. This will allow you to set the oven to front surface floor.
Liquid bitumen can be used to waterproof the underground. They treat every surface of the underground. This will protect the structures not only from moisture, but also from contamination by soap flakes. Even if the surface treated with bitumen becomes dirty, it can be washed during sanitary maintenance of the underground. To do this, use a hose and strong water pressure.
To make flooring for a leaking floor, it is better to use a 4 cm thick edged board made of solid larch or oak. You should not use pine boards for flooring in a bathhouse due to the increased resin content of the wood.
Before laying the floor, all boards must be carefully planed on all sides. This will avoid moisture stagnation in the fibers of the material. After this, the boards are laid on the logs. In this case, no fastening with nails is necessary. We leave a gap of at least 0.5 cm between the boards. Periodically, you need to clear the underground of debris. To do this, you can remove the floorboards above the drain and clean the space from any debris that accidentally gets there.
When installing floors in a bathhouse, it is very important to properly build a drainage system. The easiest way is to use a drainage pipe. It is laid at the stage of constructing the foundation under the washing room. The pipe is laid at an angle towards the drainage pit or other drainage system.
Important: the drain pipe should not have any bends or turns. It is better to choose a sewer pipe with a diameter of 150 mm.
The drainage hole should be dug at a distance of at least 3-5 m from the structure. To prevent it from subsiding over time and being covered with soil, its walls need to be further strengthened. For these purposes, you can use any reinforced concrete structures, brick or regular iron barrel without bottom. We make the floor of the pit uncovered. To ensure liquid drainage, we fill the bottom of the hole with gravel. The top of the pit is covered with a lid with a ventilation hole.
Since in the case of installing a leaky floor in a bathhouse with your own hands, it does not make sense to slope the flooring, it is necessary to organize a slope of the ground to allow water to drain into the drainage tray. From there, the liquid enters the pipe and drain hole through the drain.
Features of the design of pouring floors depending on the location of the bathhouse, connection to the ground, video about organizing water drainage with a water seal system, arrangement of the underground, installation of the stove.
At first glance, it seems that even a schoolchild can cope with installing a pouring floor in a bathhouse. Perhaps, if he turns out to be an intelligent student studying in high school and physically strong enough, then he will be able to master that volume construction work necessary during the construction of a building, work with soil and laying leaking flooring.
Floors with a leaking floor structure are considered traditional in the design of a Russian bath. The floorboards are made from hardwood. When laid on joists, gaps are left between them, through which water flows freely into the underground. A pit is specially dug and equipped in the underground for Wastewater, and with the help of additional ditches it is diverted from under the foundation of the bathhouse into a pit, from which they enter the sewer system.
When the soil is composed of sandy and sandy loam soils, the construction of a pit is impractical, since streams of water, breaking against crushed stone and reaching the bottom of the pit, are absorbed by sand and independently discharged into natural drainage.
If the soil is composed of clayey and loamy soils, a drainage system is necessary. For this purpose, a water intake structure is installed inside the pit. A collection facility is installed underground to receive waste water. This could be a hole with concrete walls and a base, or lined with bricks and coated with a layer of clay. Before pouring crushed stone, a drain pipe is installed into it, through which it will be carried into a pit located outside the walls of the bathhouse. And from there the waste water is drained into sewer network or wastewater disposal system.
The installation of a drainage system requires a lot of physical effort. At the very beginning of the work, the entire soil cover under the entire base of the steam and washing compartments is removed. In this place, a hole is dug, at least 400 mm deep, and compacted tightly. A 10-centimeter layer of sand is poured into it, which is also compacted, and the hole is filled with crushed stone. Then, in a designated and convenient place for the owner, a pit is built.
Video about organizing water drainage in a bathhouse with a water seal system:
Concrete screed. It is poured in such a way as to have a slight slope towards the water intake structure. During construction large sauna joists should be laid. They are installed on support posts, which can be made of brick. The pillars are strengthened concrete mortar using reinforcing mesh and are covered with high-quality insulation. The supports can also be treated on all sides with a special bitumen-based mastic.
Installation of lag. Beams measuring 150x150 mm are used as logs. The step between their laying is 0.5 m. Before laying the beams, they must be treated twice with a special antiseptic. When laying joists on support posts, it is necessary to lay a double layer of waterproofing at the point of contact.
Laying floorboards . The floorboards are laid in such a way that there is a gap between them - a gap of at least 5 mm wide. This distance will ensure the free flow of water used in the bath. Wood can take on water in a damp room and swell. The gaps between the floorboards at a distance of 5-7 mm will not close and will not cause sewage congestion.
In order to build a leaking structure in a bathhouse, two basic rules must be observed:
Timely removal of damp air from under the bathhouse underground will prevent the boardwalk from undergoing premature rotting processes, which will significantly extend its service life.
It is best to install the stove in such a way that its vent is located below. With this arrangement of the furnace, the underground will always be provided with an influx of fresh air masses, therefore, damp air will not linger there.
The laying of pouring floors has its own positive sides. Floorboards made of wood have a certain amount of attractiveness, since they are also environmentally friendly.
The negative side is the fact that they quickly, compared to a concrete base, become unusable and require complete, or partial replacement. This happens especially often in poorly ventilated underground areas, or in the complete absence of a ventilation system.
Yes, it is different and very much! And this needs to be known and understood well. Since, due to improper design, the floor in a steam room or washing room of a Russian bath is likely to rot very quickly. And most often, the lower crowns begin to rot along with the floor, if the bathhouse is made of logs or timber.
If you delve deeper into history, the floors in the baths in black were done directly on the ground. And when they rotted they were simply replaced. When did baths become widespread? in white, then the floors were made either on the ground or poured. That is, boards were laid and gaps were left between them for water to flow through. Most often, directly under the bathhouse, sometimes the water was drained from under the bathhouse somewhere to the side. IN Soviet time due to shortage building materials poured floors in the baths were practically the only affordable option. Under the bathhouses, troughs were made of concrete, roofing felt, metal, or something else to collect the flowing water and drain it outside the bathhouse. Even now, on many sites for bathhouse construction, you can find recommendations from the last century about organizing such troughs.
With the advent available materials The design of the floors in the baths has changed. This coincided with a construction boom in our country. A lot of teams appeared that built everyone is at home, cottages, garages, bathhouses. And these completely different objects were built, out of ignorance, using the same technology - “like a neighbor.” The floors in almost all baths were made of wood and insulated. This classic insulated floor design comes from residential construction. In a residential building, in the absence high humidity and water on the floor, this design is absolutely acceptable. But not every bathhouse can have such floors.
At the same time, again out of ignorance, the mass-built baths were far from the Russian bath. In them, almost everywhere, metal stoves were installed, which heated the steam room to temperatures above +100C. Humidity in such steam rooms usually does not exceed 15-30%. The wood, including the floors, in steam baths of such baths is usually always dry. Therefore, the design of the floor was not given much importance. And therefore, without hesitation, classic insulated wooden floors were installed everywhere. Problems could only arise in the washrooms. But the builders assured the customers that they had installed waterproofing under the floor boards and everything would be fine. They believed them because they did not know that it is extremely difficult to achieve 100% waterproofing in domestic conditions. Someone coated the floors with sealants and mastics, someone installed shower trays. But in any case, since in saunas and dry-air steam rooms the humidity is low and the temperature is high, these floors usually dried out at least and did not create any special problems.
Recently it has become popular to build Russian baths. But since for the most part they were built and are being built by the same teams of “specialists” with a lack of knowledge of what a Russian bathhouse is, they build buildings using absolutely the same technology and install the same metal stoves, as in saunas and dry-air steam rooms. The building is proudly called the Russian Bath, although in fact it has nothing in common with it. And the floors in such “Russian baths” were made of insulated wood, just like everywhere else. And, since in essence this building is not a Russian bathhouse, there is no high humidity in these buildings. Accordingly, insulated wooden floors are not bad. But this does not mean that in proper Russian baths you can also install insulated wooden floors using classical technology.
In proper Russian baths there can be only two options for proper floors that will not rot. These are classic poured floors, which I mentioned above, and insulated screed on the ground, which I will discuss in detail below. Wooden floors insulated using classical technology cannot be installed in a real Russian bathhouse! They will rot very quickly and, with a high probability, will rot along with the lower crowns of the bathhouse. In the above photo the rotten lower crown timber bath with classic insulated wooden floors.
Many people claim that they will not pour water on the floor, so there will be no problems with the floor rotting. This is true for saunas and dry-air baths, but this is a deep misconception if we are talking about a Russian bath. In Russian baths, the floors in the steam room are constantly damp due to the fact that when giving in, a large amount of steam is formed, which tends to cool down as it sinks to the floor and condense on the floor big amount moisture. Steam is also lowered to the floor using a broom while steaming. Therefore, a lot of water collects on the floor in the steam room of the Russian bath and in some cases there are even puddles. So even if the water doesn’t pour on purpose, there will still be a lot of it on the floor.
The type of foundation for the construction of a Russian bathhouse is also important, since not all foundations can have the correct floors. For example, now very popular, the foundation is on screw piles or columnar foundation Suitable only for organizing poured floors. A screed on the ground on such a foundation cannot be done without “dancing with a tambourine.” And poured floors have quite a lot of disadvantages and therefore are not very popular and in demand. So a columnar foundation or a foundation on screw piles is extremely undesirable for a Russian bathhouse. Strip foundation different types and different depths or slab according soil - optimal foundation option for the Russian bathhouse.
Next, I will talk about the design of a pouring floor, an insulated screed on the ground and a classic insulated wooden floor. About their pros and cons, I will give recommendations in which cases which of these types of floors is advisable to use. 
The pouring floor, as I wrote above, consists of boards that are laid on logs with a certain distance from each other. The distance between the boards is necessary to allow water to drain. I really do not recommend draining waste water directly under the bathhouse onto the ground. Even if the level groundwater short. The fact is that over time it may appear bad smell from the discharged water and through the cracks in the floor it will flow into the bathhouse. In order to remove wastewater from under the bathhouse, they make drainage system. Most often, this is a kind of trough made of metal or cast concrete, into which water is collected from all rooms of the bathhouse with a pouring floor and a gutter or pipe is discharged outside the bathhouse into a septic tank, drainage ditch, or some other way.
The underground space in a bathhouse with pouring floors must be ventilated. Most often, vents are used that close during procedures in winter and open again when drying. Otherwise, stagnation of moist air in the underground space of the bathhouse is possible, which can lead to rotting. It is also highly recommended after bath procedures lift floor boards to dry. In bathhouses with pouring floors, the floor boards are usually not “tightly” attached.
The advantages of a poured floor: the cheapest and simplest flooring option, can be used on any foundation, inspected when dry, easy to replace if rotting occurs, well suited for summer baths.
Disadvantages of a flooded floor: it is not comfortable in winter due to the possible blowing of cold air through cracks in the floor, the need to lift boards to dry after procedures, due to improper drainage of wastewater, unpleasant odors from the underground space are possible. 
An insulated screed on the ground or an insulated slab on the ground is the most preferred floor for the steam room and washing room in the Russian bathhouse. It is arranged as follows: fertile soil is removed, a sand and gravel cushion is poured and compacted well, all communications are laid - water, sewerage, ventilation ducts, then a preliminary unreinforced screed of 2-4 cm is poured, then waterproofing is laid according to all the rules, then extruded polystyrene foam is laid - EPPS or otherwise Penoplex 50-100mm, waterproofing is laid on it, then a final reinforced concrete screed of 8-12cm on which water or electric heated floors can be laid and the final half, most often porcelain stoneware. Porcelain tiles are used because this material is not afraid of frost and frequent temperature changes from minus to plus. Vents in the strip foundation, when using insulated screed on the ground as floors, are not required. 
In the case of installing a screed on the ground inside a strip foundation, it is necessary to make an expansion joint of 30 mm thick EPS. This seam breaks the concrete of the strip foundation and the furnace foundation, if required, from the screed along the ground. An expansion joint is required to compensate for seasonal movements of the screed relative to the strip foundation and the furnace foundation, especially on heaving soils.
Also, in the case of installing a ground screed inside a strip foundation, it is necessary to lower the insulated ground screed below the upper edge of the base. This is done in order to protect wooden structure walls of the bathhouse from the inevitable splashes of water from the floor. It is recommended to make the distance from the upper edge of the plinth to the finished floor 15-30 cm. There, porcelain tiles are installed vertically to prevent water from reaching the foundation strip.
When installing porcelain tiles on the floor, it is recommended to use frost-resistant tile adhesive for porcelain tiles; grout the seams not with classic grout, but silicone sealant. This is required to compensate for possible seasonal movements of the tiles and ensure waterproofing. Eat positive examples installation of porcelain tiles directly on EPS sheets without the use of reinforced screed. Such floors warm up quickly and are more comfortable. Before installing the tiles directly on the EPS, it is necessary to lay the EPS boards very evenly; it is advisable to glue them in a preliminary screed to prevent possible movements. Then the EPS surface mechanically are made as rough as possible. Porcelain tiles are glued to EPS using conventional tile adhesive for porcelain tiles.
An insulated screed on the ground, due to the thick layer of concrete in the reinforced screed, is a fairly cold surface. Especially in winter. Therefore, it is recommended, if possible, to install water or electric heated floors in the screed. Such floors are very pleasant for bare feet in the bathhouse, and also help to dry the bathhouse after procedures. If it is not possible to lay a heated floor in a screed, then I recommend laying foam bathroom mats and wooden gratings on the tiles in the washing room and steam room. It is quite comfortable to walk on these surfaces with bare feet even in winter. And in the rest room I recommend using 10mm thick cork. Walking on such a surface with bare feet in winter is much more pleasant than on tiles or laminate. Plus, cork is not afraid of water.
To remove wastewater, a sewer system is made in an insulated screed along the ground. The screed is filled with ordinary plastic sewer pipes, pre-wrapped with compensation porous material such as penofol. If the bathhouse is not constantly heated in winter, then ordinary sewer drains with a water seal will not work. The water in them will freeze and the ladder will be inoperable, or the ice may rupture the body of the ladder. Therefore, in such cases, I recommend using a drain with a dry mechanical seal.
In the rest room, you can make finished floors on an insulated screed on the ground, not necessarily from porcelain stoneware. You can use moisture-resistant laminate, cork coverings, wooden floors and other coverings. Materials that are afraid of moisture and linoleum are not recommended.
The advantages of an insulated screed on the ground: a very reliable and safe floor in terms of rotting, it is done once and for all, it is possible to use water or electric heated floors, big choice finishing coatings, convenient in terms of organizing sewage drains.
Disadvantages of insulated screed on the ground: expensive and complex design, without water or electric heated floors, cold in tactile sensations. 
A classic insulated wooden floor can be used in saunas and dry-air baths, but in the Russian Bath it is highly not recommended. Because of large quantity moisture on the floor is very likely to get into the floor insulation. This will lead to a rotting process. Moreover, the lower crown, which is usually located inside the “pie” of a classic insulated wooden floor, can also begin to rot. Many people believe that it is possible to waterproof a floor 100%, but practice shows that achieving this in domestic conditions is extremely difficult.
A classic insulated wooden floor consists of a rough wooden floor, which is hemmed to the joists from below, then a vapor barrier is laid, and insulation is laid on top of it. Usually this mineral wool thickness 100-150mm. Waterproofing and a finished floor are laid on top of it. In buildings with a classic insulated wooden floor, a sufficient number of vents in the foundation is necessary for high-quality ventilation of the underground space.
Pros of class 
assic wooden insulated floor in the Russian bath: relative simplicity and low cost of construction, suitable for all types of foundations, pleasant to the tactile sensations even in winter, does not require the installation of a water or electric heated floor.
Disadvantages of a classic wooden insulated floor in a Russian bath: not suitable for floors in the steam room and washing room of a Russian bath, the impossibility of inspecting for rotting, difficulties in organizing the collection and drainage of wastewater into the sewer.
The technology for making floors in a bathhouse is very different from the design in residential premises. This is largely due to high temperature and humidity, which, even with periodic exposure, affect finishing and facing materials. Following step by step guide, you can make the floor in any room of the bathhouse with your own hands.
The wash room is a room for taking water procedures, located in front of the steam room. Usually, in order to save space and for convenience, the washing room is combined with a shower room. It can also have a font, barrel or small bath. In a Russian bath, the washing room is combined with a steam room.
The temperature in the wash room may vary. When cold air enters from the dressing room, it drops, sometimes below 30°C, and when hot steam penetrates from the steam room, it rises to 50–60°C.
This directly affects the method and technology of floor construction. It should be well ventilated and dry quickly. Moisture and water retention should not be allowed, but it is necessary that the underground space is well ventilated without creating strong drafts.
To arrange a steam room, it is best to use one of two types of flooring:
Both types have their advantages and disadvantages. A leaking floor can be installed fairly quickly, but if insulated insufficiently, it can cause the temperature in the washing room to be too low. This is especially noticeable when the bathhouse is small or poorly insulated.
A non-leaking floor has more complex device, but allows you to lay a full thermal insulation layer, which significantly increases comfort and reduces heat loss. But when carrying out repairs, you will have to completely dismantle the front layer, while for a leaking one you will need to remove only part of the floorboards.
Wooden boards, concrete, insulating materials, plastic or metal pipes, galvanized fasteners etc. The total amount of materials required directly depends on the chosen floor design and its design.
In the bathhouse, you can make a leaking poured monolithic concrete floor with tile or plank cladding. This design is suitable only if the building was constructed on a strip foundation. If piles were used, it is recommended to lay galvanized steel with sheathing.
To make a monolithic floor in a washing room you will need:
The described design may include laying the system warm floors, which allows you to maintain a constant temperature in the washing room. This will also affect the performance of the coating - moisture will evaporate faster without penetrating into the seams between the tiles or boards.
The size of the washing room depends on the total area of the bath, so in each specific case it will be necessary to calculate the materials according to individual parameters. In order to understand how to do this, the calculation of material for a 3x4 m room is given as an example. The floor is usually located at a height of 50 cm from the ground level.
To install the floor you will need:
The flooring is selected individually, taking into account the owner’s requirements. If you plan to lay tiles, they must have anti-slip properties. For example, porcelain tiles measuring 30x30 cm are suitable for a washing room. One package is designed to cover 1.30–1.5 m2 of floor. Therefore, for a room with an area of 12 m2, 8–10 packages will be required.
If you plan to lay a plank floor, then it is better to use tongue and groove floorboards floorboard from larch with a thickness of 20 mm. It is advisable that the material has already been dried to natural moisture.
To arrange and manufacture the floor you will need:
In addition to the basic tools, to lay porcelain tiles you will need:
When laying tongue and groove boards, use:
Before installing the floor, you need to clean the soil inside the foundation from construction debris, branches, leaves, etc. If the inside of the load-bearing blocks is very damp, then you should wait until they are partially dry.
The sequence of actions when installing a monolithic floor in a washing room is as follows:
The concrete screed gains full strength within 25–28 days. After 3–5 days, you can carefully dismantle the guides and fill the resulting voids. During the drying process, especially in the first week, the screed should be moistened with water 2-3 times a day. The flooring can be laid no earlier than after 25 days.
The composition is applied with a paint brush to a cleaned and dry surface that has been previously sanded. Disinfection is also recommended.
The interior of the washing room can be dried (use a special substance based on vegetable oils that forms a film coating). This material perfectly protects wood from negative influences. high temperature and moisture.
The room where the sink is located can simply be painted, but it is recommended to use only special water-repellent compounds.
If the bath is used frequently, it is necessary to carry out periodic impregnation wooden surfaces(once every six months), since this coating tends to wash out. average cost semi-matte varnish for baths and saunas varies from 550 to 800 rubles per 1 liter.
The steam room is the central room in the bathhouse. The air temperature in it can reach 70°C with a humidity of 80%. In a Finnish sauna, the air is 10–20°C hotter, but the humidity is noticeably lower.
The requirements for the floor structure in the steam room and washroom are almost the same. Water and condensed moisture must be freely removed from the surface, while heat must be retained and the lining must have anti-slip properties.
According to the type of arrangement, the floor in the steam room is also divided into two types: leaking and non-leaking.
The best option for baths on pile foundation there will be a construction of an insulated leaky floor with plank or grating flooring. The most common layout of such a floor will consist of:
When installing the floor, you can use expanded clay backfill and concrete screed. This labor-intensive process, requiring certain skills in working with cement mixture.
Expanded clay can be replaced with regular ones mineral insulation, and instead of the screed put a sheet of galvanized steel.
The size of the steam room directly affects the amount of material required. Therefore, as an example, a calculation is given for arranging a floor in a 3x3 m room.
To make a leaking floor you will need:
A polypropylene pipe, an elbow for drainage and a drain are purchased taking into account the installation location of the drain hole. To organize a drain in the middle of the room, you will need to lay a pipe, put on a swivel elbow at an angle of 90°C, and make an extension to drain the drain flush with the floor surface.
You will need the following tool:
Before installing the floor, you will need to carefully inspect the lower crown and supporting beams. If there is any damage or signs of rotting, then this element requires partial or complete replacement.
The technology for making a pouring floor in a steam room consists of the following:
Galvanized sheet is not used often, but it is quite good decision, allowing you to relieve the load-bearing structure of the floor. If the bathhouse is built on a strip foundation or is located in the basement of a house, then it is better to give preference to a grate with further pouring of a concrete screed.
To treat the floor in the steam room, heat-resistant (withstands up to 120°C) varnish is used. water based. This is an elastic coating that protects wood from penetration of moisture, vapor and dirt.
The composition is applied to the prepared floor covering using a paint brush in 2 layers. Application is carried out in a ventilated area at a temperature of 5–30°C. When installing a leaking floor, treatment should begin after laying the load-bearing joists. Only after the composition has dried (2-3 hours should pass) can you proceed to installation flooring and its impregnation.
This composition is not suitable for treating furniture in a steam room. Benches, stools, and chairs cannot be covered with it.
The average consumption of the mixture is 18 m 2 /l.
Installing a floor in a bathhouse is a technologically complex and time-consuming process, largely dependent on individual characteristics structure, its dimensions and type of supporting foundation. Before performing this work, it is recommended to draw up a diagram where you need to identify its main elements and components. This will allow you to more accurately think through the flooring technology specifically for the parameters of your bathhouse.
