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» How to insulate a steam room correctly and what materials to use. Insulating the ceiling in a bathhouse from the inside: how and with what to properly insulate with your own hands Insulating the ceiling with leaves in a bathhouse

How to insulate a steam room correctly and what materials to use. Insulating the ceiling in a bathhouse from the inside: how and with what to properly insulate with your own hands Insulating the ceiling with leaves in a bathhouse

The question of how to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse is of interest to those who like to take a steam bath, but we will find out how to maintain steam and temperature in a steam room so that the heat does not escape through the walls and ceiling. In the meantime, let's talk about the physics of heat.

There is such a thing as heat transfer. A cup of hot coffee cools down in contact with environment; Although air is a poor conductor of heat, the temperature of the coffee decreases until equilibrium is reached - the law of thermodynamics.

Below room temperature air the coffee will not cool down. How to do this quickly? Speed ​​up heat transfer! Pour coffee into a metal mug. Metal has a higher thermal conductivity than porcelain. And during the transfusion process itself, the liquid comes into direct contact with the air and transfers heat energy to it.

Convection– heat transfer due to the movement of liquid or gas. When bathing in a sauna, you pour water onto hot stones, the water evaporates and conveys a hot feeling to those in the sauna.

What happens to the temperature in the steam room? There will be no significant drop in temperature; a ladle of water will not be able to take away the heat from the stones. But saturated water vapor has a density higher than dry vapor, which will occupy the upper position (that’s why it’s hot on the top shelf); the air will take longer to cool down, the less heat transfer from the walls and ceiling of the steam room.

Radiant Heat, stands out in the form infrared radiation directly from the stove, differs from the other two methods because no medium is needed to transfer heat between two separate objects.

The ideal protection against these forms of heat transfer is thermos. Essentially, it is a bottle within a bottle, between which the space is divided by a vacuum and a silver screen, a mirror, that reflects radiant waves.

The most vulnerable point of heat loss in this device is the plug. In the case of a bathhouse, this is ceiling and walls. Their heat transfer depends on the material from which they are made and their ability to retain heat in the bath.

You need to create a barrier against heat loss using thermal insulation, like in a thermos. To protect the material from moisture, there is vapor barrier films. There are two known methods of ceiling insulation: from inside the bathhouse And outside. The choice of material depends on which side of the ceiling or wall the bathhouse is insulated on.

The best way to thermally insulate a bathhouse ceiling is external insulation from the attic. Here are the advantages:

  • There is no loss of space in the bathhouse, dressing room, rest room, shower room, and others;
  • Larger selection of insulating materials;
  • The requirements for environmental safety and moisture resistance are not as strict as inside the bathhouse;
  • Installation is simplified, it is convenient to lay vapor barrier film and insulation.

How to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse from the outside?

There are countless options. If the attic floor is made of OSP slabs, then they are laid vapor barrier film, and the ceiling of the bathhouse is insulated on top basalt wool. They are laid in two layers to cover the joints, then covered with a vapor barrier film on top, scraps of lumber are placed on it and that’s it, if the attic is not used.

The old way is even simpler: insulation of the ceiling with sawdust and clay. Our ancestors added clay to prevent mice from settling in sawdust.

Bathroom ceiling insulation expanded clay They do this: they put reinforced polyethylene film on the substrate, then pour expanded clay on top. In general, they always tried to make do with local materials for insulation; slag was also poured into attics, pre-screened through a large mesh and an excellent insulating material was obtained. But now more often they make floors and use the attic space for household needs, a kind of attic where you can work and relax.

Special requirements for the arrangement and insulation of the roof. The floors are arranged like this: a vapor barrier film is laid on the subfloor, logs from edged boards 20 x 100 or 40 x 100 mm are attached, and insulation is placed between the logs. Instead of basalt wool, it is better to insulate mineral wool "Eco", then they cover the top with chipboard, plywood, OSP - they make the floor.

The construction market is replete with thermal insulation materials. Choosing which insulation for the ceiling in a bathhouse is best suited for internal installation and which one is best suited for external installation is not easy. When choosing, be guided not only by the brand, but also technical characteristics of the material. Not the least important role is played by the flammability class of the material, its characteristics of thermal conductivity, density, environmental friendliness, ease of installation and transportation.

The inside of the bathhouse is insulated if it is made of heat-conducting material: brick, concrete plates, thin boards. Insulating the ceiling in a bathhouse with mineral wool can be done with your own hands by anyone who knows how to use building level and has work skills. A vapor barrier is attached to the wall and ceiling, and a sheathing is made from timber. First, the timber is screwed vertically to the wall with self-tapping screws. Make stands with a distance of 60 cm around the entire perimeter. Then the same design is made on the ceiling.

Advice. Before laying the mineral wool between the bars, make holes in the ceiling: 1- for ventilation (in the far corner from the door), 2- for the insulation box chimney.

Below we will look at how to do this. The transverse dimensions of the beams depend on the type of heat-insulating material placed between them. Mineral wool is sold in rolls. Before installation, you need to cut the roll in half, you will get a strip of 60 cm. Wait for the strip to take its shape. When unfolded, it will swell with air, which will fill the pores. Attach between the slats as shown in the image. Choose environmentally friendly materials.

Then additional insulation of the bathhouse ceiling with foil having a dense paper base, which plays the role of a heat insulator; the mirror part reflects radiant energy, trapping heat. Begin to attach the rolled foil from the floor to the ceiling with staples to the bars with an overlap of 5-10 cm, the seam is glued with adhesive foil tape.

Advice. Choose material of proper quality. Require a safety compliance certificate. Not all materials are suitable for insulating a bathhouse from the inside. Ensure compliance with the rules for installing chimneys. 90% of fires in stove baths occur due to improper cutting of the chimney pipe through the ceiling, attic floor and roof.

Insulation of a budget option is considered. There are other materials that are more expensive, but effective in their thermal insulation qualities, since they have 3 protection barriers: waterproofing, vapor barrier, thermal insulation.

How to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse with your own hands: a step-by-step guide

Installation of thermal insulation with SPU Sauna-Satu panels does not require preparation. Now that you know how to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse with mineral wool, make exactly the same sheathing for the panels if the walls are crooked.

Panel sizes: 1, 2 x 0.6 x 0.03 m and 2.4 x 0.6 x 0.03 m have the same width as the standard one roll insulation. Wooden surfaces in the bath, before installing the panels, it is recommended to soak antiseptic solution.

SPU Sauna-Satu panels have a tongue and groove connection. In Scandinavian countries, these plates are used to insulate saunas, including using steam. Special sealing foam seals the joints; the panels can be installed both horizontally and vertically. Installation instructions:

1. Prepare: knife, fasteners, sealing foam and aluminum tape.

2. Before installing the first panel, cut the tenon along the entire length of the panel.

3. The first panel is placed on the floor with the cut side and applied to the wall. Before installation, a sealant is applied to the joint.

4. The panel is pressed tightly against the seal, holes are drilled and the umbrellas are driven in at the fastening points. Fasteners, tape, seal - everything is included in the kit. Ask the sellers.

5. The panels fit easily into the groove. Each joint is coated with a sealant. Apply to panel edges before installation.

6. Then the panels are attached to the ceiling beams, the corners are sealed, the excess foam is carefully cut off, and all joints are additionally taped.

7. Below, if you plan to screed the floor, remove the top layer of the panel 10-15 cm from the floor along the entire perimeter and make waterproofing in the places of the baseboard where the wall meets the floor. Apply several layers of waterproofing paste with a brush, stick on waterproofing tape and apply the paste again. Then they make a sheathing for clapboard covering.

8. Finishing clapboard.

Insulation of the ceiling involves cutting it under an insulating box through which the pipe will pass. This is what the factory version of the box looks like.

The thermodynamic processes occurring in the bathhouse during heating and procedures must remain inside the system (steam room) for as long as possible, and this is only possible with proper thermal insulation ceiling, walls, section of cutting the ceiling in the place of pipes, doors.

Useful video

Benefits from correct selection materials and installation of thermal insulation are obvious - the speed of heating the bath, fuel economy, and most importantly - the pleasure and health that you will experience in the process bath procedures. Be careful. Don’t make a mistake in choosing materials, contact those who carry out this work comprehensively: thermal, sound and waterproofing, installation ventilation systems, other jobs.

The operating conditions of the bathhouse differ from those that most buildings have to face. Therefore, the issue of high-quality vapor and heat insulation should be given Special attention. Let's consider how to insulate the ceiling, floor, walls in a bathhouse and what technology to choose in order to create a suitable microclimate and reduce heat loss to a minimum, saving your own efforts and resources.

A bathhouse is a room that is periodically heated for the purpose of taking health procedures. A special microclimate is formed inside the room, characterized by high temperature and humidity. Of course, this cannot but have an impact on those building materials that have to be exposed to such influence.

In addition, one has to take into account the costs associated with the use of this or that amount of fuel. If a building is prone to cooling quickly, large amounts of fuel will be required to maintain the appropriate temperature. And given the fact that, according to the laws of physics, warm air is lighter than cold air, it is the roof of the bathhouse that requires insulation, through which significant heat loss occurs.

But on the way to erecting a barrier to retain warm air indoors, there is one more aspect that all bathhouse owners should pay special attention to. High humidity becomes a source of large quantity condensation, which, if the roof is not insulated correctly, can accumulate. This often causes destruction wooden elements buildings.

Interesting fact! High humidity is a favorable environment for the growth and development of various microorganisms: fungi, mold and bacteria. Ill-conceived vapor and heat insulation can cause them to appear and multiply.

Insulation of the ceiling in a bathhouse with a cold roof, depending on the characteristics of the roof

The roof of a bathhouse can be represented by one of two types: with an attic space and without it. In the first case, the air layer itself creates a fairly effective barrier, which has a positive effect on the building’s ability to retain heat. But this does not mean that the presence of an attic completely eliminates the need for insulation work.

If the bathhouse does not have an attic or attic, then high-quality thermal insulation is practically required condition further use of the building for its intended purpose.

Regardless of what type of room you are faced with, the first and extremely important step is to provide a vapor barrier layer. Available materials such as aluminum foil, high-density cardboard, which is pre-impregnated with drying oil, or wax paper are perfect for this.

Before laying a thermal insulation layer, you should take care of a reliable vapor barrier on the roof.

Helpful advice! If work is being done to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse where there is an attic space, then it is recommended to coat the ceiling boards on the roof side with a layer of clay about 2-3 cm.

How to insulate a bathhouse ceiling: the best thermal insulation materials

During the heating process, the temperature and humidity in the room reaches extremely high levels. Therefore to building materials, which are used in the process of arranging this room, have special requirements, namely, they must be resistant to such influences and at the same time not emit hazardous substances when heated.

In addition, it is not recommended that the weight of the insulation be too large. It is preferable to opt for lightweight material, simple and convenient both in transportation and installation. And of course, we must not forget about such a characteristic as fire resistance, which is important for such a room as a bathhouse.

Do-it-yourself insulation of a bathhouse ceiling: advantages and disadvantages of mineral wool

Mineral wool is by far the most popular option among all. It is often used for insulation not only of bathhouses and garages, but also for residential buildings. In itself, it is a fibrous material that has excellent thermal insulation characteristics and can be presented in one of three types:

  • glass wool;
  • stone wool;
  • slag wool.

But if the first option is familiar to almost everyone, then not everyone has seen the other two. Stone wool is a material obtained mainly from basalt, although it is sometimes made from other melts rocks. Slag wool is very similar to cinder blocks, for the production of which blast furnace slag is used.

In addition to the fact that mineral wool has low thermal conductivity, which allows it to be used for thermal insulation of ceilings and walls, it has another significant advantage. Unlike other materials, it cannot serve as a breeding ground for microorganisms: fungi, mold, small insects or rodents, which is very useful for summer cottages.

As for other characteristics, mineral wool is not prone to fire and does not react in any way to temperature changes: it does not deform or shrink. Light weight and convenient packaging (usually in the form of rolls or rectangular slabs) make it easy and convenient to work with the material, even alone.

Of course, this material also has disadvantages that one way or another will have to be taken into account:

  • mineral wool can absorb moisture;
  • it contains phenols, which can potentially pose a hazard to human health.

Both of these disadvantages can be neutralized during the installation process, providing the insulation with high-quality vapor and waterproofing, completely eliminating the risk of contact of mineral wool with air under the ceiling. This is especially true for warm and humid air, which is concentrated indoors.

Helpful advice! Despite the fact that, if all installation rules are followed, mineral wool does not pose a real threat to health, during its installation you must be careful and use protective equipment, since its small fibers can cause irritation to the skin and eyes.

Insulation of the ceiling in a bathhouse with expanded clay: features of use

Expanded clay is small-sized pebbles that consist of clay and have a porous structure. If we take into account all the factors, then expanded clay can be called the most suitable material for insulating the ceiling in a bathhouse. Of course, if the building has attic space and there is a possibility of using it.

The advantages of this choice can confidently include the following aspects:

  • expanded clay is completely safe: it does not support combustion, is environmentally friendly and even in the event of a fire will not release hazardous substances into the atmosphere;
  • over time, and also under the influence external factors, expanded clay does not deteriorate and does not decompose;
  • the cost of the material is quite low;
  • bacteria and fungi do not consider expanded clay an attractive environment for life.

In addition, expanded clay is superior to mineral wool in its ability to not absorb moisture. And although the need to equip steam and waterproofing layers remains, the risk of moisture accumulation inside the insulation layer is much less. It should also be noted that the service life of expanded clay is one of the longest when compared with other materials.

Is it worth it to insulate the ceiling from the inside with polystyrene foam?

At a certain period, foam plastic was the leader among thermal insulation materials, which were used to insulate not only bathhouses, but also residential buildings. But with the advent alternative options, its significant shortcomings became noticeable. So, for example, in the event of a fire, polystyrene foam burns well, while also emitting toxic smoke that can harm human health.

In addition, polystyrene foam is not very resistant to external factors, collapsing under the influence of high temperatures, which is inevitable if it is used in a bathhouse.

For these reasons, we can conclude that polystyrene foam is far from being the most suitable material For this purpose, it is better to give preference to another material that is more stable and suitable for its characteristics.

Using ecowool as insulation for a bath

Another material that is popular among insulation materials and is often used for bathhouses and garages is ecowool. This fibrous material is made from cellulose, adding special impurities to it to provide protection against insects, bacteria and rodents. In addition, they make ecowool resistant to fire.

Related article:

Video review of the technology for creating a bathhouse with your own hands, the main stages of building a building, requirements and tips. Common types of baths.

The advantages of this material include environmental friendliness, as well as low weight and the ability to fill even the smallest cracks and gaps, which is very convenient if we're talking about about working with not too flat surface. It does not emit any toxic substances so, like expanded clay, it is completely safe for human health.

But there is also a significant drawback: the effectiveness of using ecowool is directly related to the presence of ventilation, as well as a high-quality waterproofing layer, which is designed to remove moisture. This is due to the fact that ecowool itself is very prone to absorbing condensation, which negatively affects its thermal insulation characteristics Oh.

There are two ways to apply this heat insulator to walls, the so-called “dry” and “wet”. The main difference and at the same time complexity of the second option is the need to use special equipment for this, the rental of which will cause quite high prices for insulating the ceiling using this method.

Insulating a bathhouse inside using a mixture of cement and sawdust

This method can confidently be called the oldest among all those described, since these materials were used for insulation long before thermal insulation materials such as polystyrene foam and mineral wool appeared on the market.

Interesting fact! Typically, cement and sawdust are used to create a suitable mixture. Although the option of replacing these components with clay and straw is quite acceptable.

First of all, prepare a dry mixture, which includes sawdust, lime and cement in a ratio of 10/1/1, respectively. After mixing all the dry ingredients, add 1.5 parts of water, pouring it in gradually and mixing thoroughly so that the solution is homogeneous. After this, all that remains is to place the mixture on the surface and level it to an even layer.

If all recommendations and technologies are followed, you can ultimately obtain high-quality, environmentally friendly material. Although we have to admit that in terms of thermal insulation characteristics it is still inferior to mineral wool and even expanded clay. So, perhaps, its only advantage is its low cost, which, however, entails quite a lot of hassle.

Features of the arrangement of vapor barrier and waterproofing layers

The presence of a vapor barrier layer is not a whim, but a real necessity. Especially when it comes to premises such as a bathhouse, where hot airan integral part of use of the premises for their intended purpose. Rising in the form of steam, moisture can have a destructive effect on the insulation and contribute to the formation of mold and mildew on the wooden elements of the bathhouse frame.

In order to avoid problems that may arise as a result of moisture accumulation on the ceiling and walls, use special films and coating materials, such as anti-condensation membranes. When choosing a suitable material, it is advisable to purchase one that has a foil layer.

Helpful advice! During the installation of a vapor barrier film, it is very important to pay attention to its integrity. It is necessary to prevent the occurrence of gaps, as this will greatly affect the technical characteristics of the coating.

To ensure waterproofing, special films are used, which can be purchased at hardware stores. Sometimes the most ordinary polyethylene of sufficient density or cheap roofing felt is used.

Do-it-yourself insulation of a floor ceiling: step-by-step instructions

A deck ceiling is an excellent option for buildings that are used seasonally and have a small area. But in such a design there is not a lot of space for bulk insulation. In addition, such a ceiling is also not able to withstand a lot of weight. Therefore, the choice of material should be approached more responsibly.

In order to have enough space for laying insulation, the floor ceiling should be placed slightly lower than the height of the walls. And after that, you can begin step-by-step work according to the following instructions:

  1. First of all, it is necessary to lay a vapor barrier layer on the attic side. In this case, the side on which the foil is located should be facing down. The material is laid with an overlap of approximately 10-15 cm, and to ensure tightness, you also need to tape the joints with tape.
  2. The selected thermal insulation material is laid on top. In this case, mineral wool or expanded clay is best suited, since the floor ceiling is not intended for heavy loads.
  3. A layer of waterproofing material is placed on top, which can be roofing felt or polyethylene film. Laying must be done with an overlap, and the seams must be carefully taped.
  4. The final layer should consist of sheets of plywood or boards, which will provide reliable protection for the previous layers.

This is a simple method that is relevant if you do not plan to spend too much money and time on it. If the area of ​​the bathhouse is large enough or it is necessary to use the space under the roof for storage, then this option will not be very suitable due to its fragility. In this case, it is better to give preference to a false ceiling.

Do-it-yourself insulation of a false ceiling: step-by-step instructions

The design of a suspended ceiling involves attaching to the upper part of the wall not the flooring itself, but support beams, for which a wooden beam or several boards spliced ​​together are most often used. A ceiling is attached to the beams above and below, which also serves as the floor of the attic. Well, in the middle between the top and bottom layers a layer of thermal insulation material is laid, as well as hydro- and vapor barriers.

The installation process may differ slightly depending on which insulation was chosen, however, in general technology is saved. If mineral wool is used for this purpose, the procedure is as follows:

  • The first layer of waterproofing material is laid, which is attached to the upper surface of the beams using a furniture stapler. As in all other cases, the overlaps must be at least 10 cm, and the joints must be additionally glued;

  • boards or plywood are laid on top of the waterproofing, thus ensuring strength and reliability of the structure;
  • mineral wool of suitable thickness is placed in the spaces between the beams based on the following standards: 150-180 mm for regions with a temperate climate, 200-250 mm for regions characterized by severe frosts. As with waterproofing material, the connection of two individual parts the material must be overlapped;
  • The vapor barrier film is attached to the floor beams from the bottom side. It is highly recommended that its edges be attached to the top of the walls. Since this is a very delicate material, it is important to work with it carefully, avoiding damage and tearing;
  • perpendicular to the beams, on top vapor barrier material wooden slats are attached;
  • the final stage is attaching the lining using self-tapping screws or nails to these slats.

This insulated ceiling is very durable and can withstand heavy loads, so the attic space can be used to furnish an attic or as storage for various accessories.

Do-it-yourself insulation of the ceiling of a bathhouse without an attic: nuances of work

The technology for insulating a wooden or panel bath, in the case of a complete absence of an attic space, has some differences from those discussed earlier. In this case, it is necessary to secure the vapor barrier material, and then attach the insulation itself. The beam beam and the final layer - ceiling boards - are already attached to it.

Particular attention should be paid to the junction of the insulation and the pipe. First of all, this is necessary to ensure compliance with regulations. fire safety. The indentation provided for by the rules must be at least 200 mm. Naturally, it is impossible to simply leave a hole, and therefore a simple box is mounted, consisting of rafter legs. Its main role is the separation of insulation and pipes.

Helpful advice! The inside of the box can also be filled with thermal insulation material. True, it must be fire-resistant and not susceptible to high temperatures. For example, stone wool is suitable for this.

Another important task that faces the owner who is insulating the ceiling of a bathhouse without an attic is to completely eliminate the risk of condensation. Therefore, all vapor and waterproofing materials must be of high quality and attached in strict accordance with the rules and regulations.

2 options for insulating the floor in a bathhouse with your own hands: instructions for use

Of course, carrying out insulation work brick bath or a building made of wood, laying thermal insulation material only on the ceiling will not be enough. Therefore, it is worth taking care that the room has a warm floor. Let's consider how the work is carried out depending on what materials we have to deal with.

Option 1. Insulation of a wooden floor in a bathhouse

In order to make the floor in the bathhouse warmer and reduce heat loss, the same materials are used as in the case of ceiling installation. The method of insulating the floor in a bathhouse with expanded clay, mineral wool, and ecowool is often used.

Helpful advice! One of the most effective ways to maintain heat in a room is to install a sauna on screw piles. In this case, floor insulation will not be so urgently required due to the presence of an additional air cushion under the building.

The insulation procedure begins with the dismantling of all elements that may interfere with the work. Skirting boards and floorboards are removed. After this, all remaining wooden elements are carefully inspected and checked for damage. If they are detected, damaged elements are replaced with new ones. It is imperative to treat with antiseptics that will protect against rodents, insects and fungi.

Using small-sized blocks, the lower edges of the joists are built up to create reliable support for the rough covering. Using cheap lumber, a rough covering is installed, leaving gaps of about a centimeter between the joists and boards. Subfloor boards should not be laid too tightly, since when air humidity increases, wood tends to expand, which can lead to deformation of the coating if laid too tightly.

Laying a vapor barrier layer is required, especially if ground levels located in close proximity to the surface. The vapor barrier must cover the entire surface, including joists. If the groundwater is located high, then glassine or roofing material is best suited, and for a low groundwater level - a vapor barrier membrane.

The material for vapor barrier must be fastened in such a way that it also covers the lower edges of the wall, approximately 15 cm. It is most convenient to attach the material to the joists using a construction stapler, gluing each joint with tape.

The heat insulator is placed between the joists so that approximately 2 cm of air cushion remains on top. This will allow natural ventilation.

Helpful advice! If the thickness of the heat insulator is so large that it is impossible to leave free space, then a lathing can be placed on top of the material in increments of about 40 cm.

To eliminate the risk of moisture ingress, another waterproofing layer is placed on top. It is preferable to use membrane material for this purpose. If there is a need to install sheathing, then the membrane must be laid under it. Finally, the floorboards and baseboards are attached. All protruding edges of the materials are trimmed.

Option 2. Description of the technology for insulating a concrete floor with polystyrene foam

The procedure for insulating a concrete floor in a bathhouse is carried out somewhat differently. This should be done after completing the rough work:

  1. A layer of waterproofing material is laid on top of the rough screed. Unlike a wooden floor, in this case it is possible to use ordinary high-strength polyethylene. At the same time, the overlap on the walls must be at least 5 cm. The material is laid on the surface, and the excess is cut off. If the polyethylene was originally in a roll, its parts must be laid with an overlap of 10 cm, sealing the joints with tape.
  2. After this, thermal insulation material is laid. Expanded polystyrene is best suited for this, since it has all the necessary characteristics for this. To attach sheets to the surface, you can use special glue and self-tapping screws, and in some cases they make lathing.
  3. A reinforcing mesh is laid on top and another screed is made, the thickness of which should be at least 2 cm.
  4. When the reinforcing screed is completely dry, you can start leveling the floor. For this purpose, special self-leveling mixtures are commercially available. It is only important that its layer is at least 5-8 cm above the insulation level.

Helpful advice! During the pouring process, be sure to level the mixture using a needle roller. This will get rid of excess air bubbles and make the coating as even and smooth as possible.

Insulation of a bathhouse outside and inside: features of wall insulation

The first thing you should pay attention to when planning work on insulating the walls of a bathhouse is whether you want to place a thermal insulation layer on the inside or outside. Both options are acceptable, however, the first is used extremely rarely for a number of reasons:

  • Insulating the inside of garages, bathhouses and modest-sized houses is an irrational use of the small space that is available. Obviously, laying all the necessary layers will make the room smaller, which in some cases is not ergonomic;
  • The humidity in the bathhouse can be so high that even if all precautions are taken necessary conditions and installation of steam and heat insulation layers, it is almost impossible to guarantee that the heat insulator will not be exposed to moisture sooner or later;
  • Insulating the walls in a bathhouse from the inside with your own hands allows you to retain heat inside the room, but is not able to protect the walls from freezing with outside. This temperature difference often has a negative impact on the condition of the building.

Let's consider the features of wall insulation depending on the material that was used to construct the building.

Features of insulation in a wooden bath: log steam room

At first glance, it may seem that log buildings do not particularly require thermal insulation, since the wall looks quite airtight, and the wood does a good job of retaining heat. But in fact, the problem lies in the fact that the timber is highly susceptible to shrinkage and cracks form over time. They become the main sources of cold.

Most effective method seal the resulting gaps - lay out insulation between the logs during the construction stage. Then, using a hammer and caulk, all remaining cracks, even the smallest ones, are clogged and treated with sealant.

Interesting fact! To this day, fans of environmentally friendly materials continue to use plants such as moss or cuckoo flax to fill cracks in walls.

Thermal insulation occurs even at the construction stage, when inter-crown insulation is laid between the logs

Do-it-yourself insulation of a bathhouse from the inside: brick, block and frame buildings

Perhaps one of the most labor-intensive processes- insulation from the inside of a bathhouse from expanded clay concrete blocks, bricks or other materials to which it is not so easy to attach, and you also have to carefully select the material, taking into account its weight and size.

For example, if we are talking about insulation frame structure, which is not capable of withstanding heavy loads, it is simply impossible to do without careful preliminary calculations. As an expensive, but ideal option for this purpose, you can consider spraying. This method can be used both for insulating a bathhouse made of foam blocks from the inside, and for buildings made of almost any material.

In some cases, extruded polystyrene foam boards are used. For internal insulation this is not a very suitable option, as it takes up a significant amount of space, but for outer skin best solution can not found.

Helpful advice! Insulation by spraying polyurethane foam must be carried out by professionals and in compliance with all technological requirements and standards. Also, high-quality specialized equipment is required.

Insulating a bathhouse made of block bricks inside: video instructions

There are many different ways to insulate the floor, ceiling and walls of a bathhouse, using various materials and technologies. You can learn more about one of these methods by reading detailed video instructions for insulation brick wall from the inside. In addition, this technology can be used not only for baths. According to these instructions, you can also insulate the garage from the inside with your own hands.

The bathhouse building belongs to the category of structures with special conditions operation. The formation of a microclimate acceptable for the adoption of beneficial procedures, fuel consumption, and the time for warming up the premises depend on its proper design. The concept of “competent device” means a number of technological processes, one of which is the insulation of the bathhouse ceiling. After all, it is the insufficiently thermally insulated upper floor that contributes to the leakage of almost a third of the thermal energy.

The heated air, obeying the strict laws of physics, rushes upward. If there is no impassable barrier in its path, its further work will be aimed at heating the atmosphere. To stop such unreasonable spending, you need to erect a reliable barrier. Moreover, it must be done in such a way that it does not contribute to the formation of condensation on the wooden elements of the ceiling, so that this moisture does not favor the settlement of colonies of microorganisms that destroy building materials.

Principles of thermal insulation of bath ceilings

Based on the design features of the roof, bathhouses made of logs or timber can be divided into two types: buildings with and without attic space. In the path of warm air flowing from bathhouses with attics, there will be a much more powerful ceiling, in layered cake in which thermal insulation material is usually laid during the construction process.

The under-roof space itself, filled with an air mass, also inhibits the leakage of thermal energy, and the insulation of the roof structure also slightly moderates the agility of the “escaping” heat.

However, this does not mean that insulation of the ceiling in a bathhouse with an attic or attic is not necessary. Increasing the thermal insulation characteristics in it is no less necessary than in a building without an attic, where the heat leaking out encounters few and too weak barriers in its path.

Specifics of the vapor barrier device

In both cases, regardless of the roof structure, a vapor barrier is laid on the bathhouse ceiling before laying the heat-insulating layer. To equip a building without an attic space, you can use aluminum foil, compacted cardboard, generously impregnated with drying oil, or wax paper as a vapor barrier layer.

In bathhouses with an attic, the same materials are used, but most often the ceiling boards on the roof side are coated with a two-centimeter layer of clay.

Of the options offered by the industry, the following are used:

  • standard polyethylene film (as for greenhouses 0.4 mm with variations) - not very popular due to the creation greenhouse effect type of vapor barrier;

Note. The use of polyethylene film as insulation requires leaving a gap necessary for condensation to evaporate.

  • a special vapor barrier film made of polyethylene with fibers to retain condensation;
  • membrane type vapor barrier material.

Vapor barrier is necessary to prevent the transit of wet vapors and their settling in the insulation. After all, water accumulated in the thermal insulation material will shorten its service life, increase the weight of the multilayer ceiling system and, if we return to the physics course, reduce its insulating qualities.

Three functions of bath ceiling insulation

The hotter the room temperature is required, the more difficult it is to build a barrier to retain heat. To solve this difficult problem, those who want to know how to insulate the ceiling of a bathhouse should familiarize themselves with the three main leak patterns:

  • movement of heated air through the cracks in the ceiling;
  • gradual transition of heat from heated objects to cold ones;
  • intersection of homogeneous barriers by thermal waves.

Laying thermal insulation material in a multi-layer roofing system prevents all types of thermal leaks. Properly done insulation will adequately perform all the work assigned to it. Due to poor thermal insulation, condensation will settle on the ceiling, it will take much longer to warm up the room, and more fuel resources will be spent.

Selection of materials for insulation

Before deciding how to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse, you need to consider all options for suitable thermal insulation materials.

  • “Classic” mineral wool is used most often. In its chaotic interweaving of fibers melted from basalt there are billions of air-filled voids, each of which works responsibly to retain heat. Disadvantage: loss of insulating properties when wet.

Note. When using mineral wool to insulate the ceiling in bath buildings, it is recommended to lay a waterproofing layer on top of the insulation if the roof is not sufficiently protected from leaks atmospheric water. A thermal insulation gap must be created between the waterproofing layer and the insulation.

  • Super-light polypropylene foam - penotherm - is also often installed on the ceiling of a bathhouse. The foil-laminated material was developed specifically for arranging bath buildings and saunas. In addition to its intended function of insulation, its foil side reflects the flow of thermal energy. Working on the mirror principle, penotherm allows you to reduce the heating time of the steam room by 2-3 times.
  • Expanded clay is suitable for large-sized bath structures. The layer sufficient to insulate the ceiling should be 30 cm. Although the material is relatively lightweight, it will inevitably increase the weight of the building. Its porous granules, like mineral wool, are susceptible to moisture. Waterproofing is also necessary.
  • "People's" heat insulator. The first element is a 2 cm layer of crumpled clay. Instead, a mix of chernozem and peat, wood shavings filled with cement mortar, a mixture of clay, sand or sawdust are suitable. A “carpet” of dry sawdust or leaves (preferably oak) is laid on top of the laid layer, and the insulation is completed by laying a layer of dry earth 15 cm thick.
  • Growing aerated concrete, for pouring which a simple formwork is arranged. The video will clearly depict how this insulation of the bathhouse ceiling is carried out: the video demonstrates the simple technology in detail.

It is difficult to recommend the thickness of the insulation layer offhand, without knowing the actual size of heat loss and technical parameters buildings. The figures are approximate throughout, variations are allowed. Much depends on the climate zone, because the ceiling insulation in a bathhouse is not only a barrier to heat, but also protection from external temperature factors. If the ceiling freezes from the outside, moisture will certainly condense on the ceiling. In such cases, the thermal insulation layer is simply increased.

Ceiling insulation technology

Regardless of the material chosen for the construction of the bathhouse, the design of its upper ceiling is almost the same. The load-bearing base is made up of beams resting on the upper rims of timber or logs or on the mauerlat of brick or panel buildings. The timber used for the construction of the beam floor is usually treated with an antiseptic before installation. But, if the fungus protection procedure has not been carried out in advance, the wood should be treated before laying layers of thermal insulation. Particular care must be taken at the junction of building materials with different technical characteristics. In such tandems as brick-wood, foam concrete-wood, wood-metal.

  • On the side of the bathhouses, the ceiling is hemmed with boards, nailed from below to the beams.
  • Rolling boards are knocked together, which are two rows of low-grade boards perpendicular to each other.

Attention. Craftsmen who insulate the bathhouse ceiling with their own hands need to make calculations before constructing the roll-up panels. There must be gaps of at least 5 cm between the beams and the panels installed on the skull boards. There must be a distance of at least 25 cm between the wooden elements and the chimney.

It is necessary to draw a diagram and, according to it, calculate the dimensions and configuration of each of the shields. After manufacturing, the shields must be numbered so as not to get confused during installation.

  • Knocked together “boxes” also need to be protected from rot and bacteria with antiseptic impregnation.
  • A vapor barrier material is stapled to the bottom and inner walls of the pallet-like panel.
  • The panels are lifted up without insulation, starting with those that will be mounted last.
  • Having raised all the elements to the top, they are arranged according to the markings. The lower plane of the replaced shield must coincide with the lower plane of the beam.
  • After placement, the boxes are filled with thermal insulation material. It is also necessary to insulate the gaps between the panels and beams.
  • The entire structure is covered with boards on top in a direction perpendicular to the direction of the beams.

Advice. It is not necessary to use a long board for the top cladding; it can be alternated with rows made up of short boards.

Instead of boards, you can use fiberboard, homemade slabs made of cement mortar with sawdust. The finished ceiling must be treated with a fire retardant; in the area of ​​the chimney, all wooden elements are sheathed with asbestos sheets.

Thermal insulation for steam room

This is a separate topic, since the upper plane of the steam room should not only not let through, but also promote the accumulation of steam in the ceiling area. It is recommended to lay two layers of vapor barrier material over the steam rooms and supplement the insulation for the bathhouse ceiling with layers of thermal insulation.

Design by Sosnin and Bukharkin

  • The beams are hemmed with tongue-and-groove boards 2.5 cm thick. They need to be covered in two layers with drying oil, which, according to the developers, should make the lumber moisture-resistant.
  • A low-grade board with gaps of approximately 3 cm is nailed on top of the beams in the transverse direction. This is the so-called moisture gap.
  • Roofing felt is laid on boards laid with gaps, or polyethylene film can be used. It’s great if the owner doesn’t skimp on reinforced foil.
  • Fill up with a 20-centimeter layer of slag or sand.

Two more options for the steam room

For filing from below along the ceiling beams, an unedged five-centimeter board is suitable. Outside, along the beams, to support the filing, a narrow board is attached to the wood grouse. The lining of the ceiling itself, made of tongue-and-groove aspen boards with a ventilation gap, is attached to this thin board.

A vapor barrier layer is laid on the attic side, then a 3 cm layer of clay mixed with sawdust. Then mineral wool with a density of 125 units and a width of 15 cm and PP film against the wind. Finally, the attic floor boards are installed.

If the ceiling is made of logs, the ceiling of the steam room from below is sheathed on top of a sheathing specially constructed for it. Glassine is laid on top as a vapor barrier layer, then 20 cm of sand, everything else is optional.

If the owner wants his structure to hold steam perfectly, it is worth finding out in detail how to properly insulate the ceiling of the bathhouse. Information about the order in which the layers are laid, how the ceiling design in the steam room differs from its analogue for the washing compartment will help to properly insulate the structure that has become a symbol country life. The proposed device options can be upgraded in accordance with personal requirements and climatic conditions.

In order to maintain optimal temperature conditions and steam generation in the bathhouse during health procedures, comprehensive insulation of the building should be ensured.

All this will lead to an increase in the load on heating equipment to warm up the room, which means:

  • rapid wear or breakdown of equipment as a result of extreme loads;
  • increasing the heating time of the steam room;
  • an increase in fuel consumption, and therefore an increase in the cost of utilities.

To maintain optimal temperature and humidity conditions in the steam room, it is necessary to take a comprehensive approach to the selection and installation of insulating material. After all, improper thermal insulation of the bathhouse ceiling can lead to an increase in heat loss and a decrease in the service life of the interior decorative finishing.

Materials

Which better material use for insulation ceiling surface in the bath? Experts recommend choosing insulation materials that can be used in extreme conditions. Below are the requirements for these materials:

  • resistance to temperature changes, high humidity and vapor formation;
  • resistance to damage by fungi, mold and pathogens;
  • inertness to rotting and burning;
  • safety and environmental friendliness;
  • low thermal conductivity and moisture absorption;
  • simple and affordable installation;
  • long service life.

TO thermal insulation materials for a bath include:

Mineral wool

The most common insulation in mineral based, which is widely used for internal insulation of bath buildings. It is made from basalt fiber, therefore it has low thermal conductivity, good thermal insulation, and resistance to high temperatures and humidity.

Another indisputable advantage of the material is its high fire resistance. Mineral wool is used for internal and external insulation and can withstand heating temperatures of over 650 degrees. The service life of the insulation reaches 45 years, due to its resistance to the development of pathogenic microflora and rotting.

Among the disadvantages are the tendency to get wet and the fragility of basalt fiber. To eliminate them, it is enough to use a vapor barrier membrane with a special coating of aluminum chips.

Mineral wool is produced in slabs or rolls with a thickness of 50 to 100 mm. One type of insulation is cotton wool with a foil-coated heat-reflecting layer.

Polystyrene foam and polystyrene foam

A budget and practical option for insulating a bath ceiling. Insulation materials are lightweight, low cost and easy to install. Other advantages of polystyrene foam include:

  • low thermal conductivity;
  • low moisture absorption;
  • resistance to rotting and mold infection.

Polymer insulation also has some disadvantages:

  • susceptibility to destruction at temperatures above 75 degrees;
  • release of toxic substances;
  • low vapor permeability, susceptibility to aggressive components and fire.

Taking into account all the negative characteristics, it is recommended to use polystyrene foam (foam) to insulate the bathhouse ceiling from the outside. For execution interior work he doesn't fit.

Penoizol

A modern type of thermal insulation for the ceiling surface, which is urea-formaldehyde cellular foam. The advantages of the material include:

  • low thermal conductivity;
  • seamless application;
  • high resistance to mechanical and chemical influences;
  • inertness to rotting and fire;
  • long service life - up to 75 years;
  • affordable price.

The only drawback is increased moisture absorption. Penoizol is produced in the form of slabs and thermal wool.

Izover

The most popular thermal insulator for ceiling bases is mineral-based - slag, dolomite, basalt and diabasalt. It is practical, affordable and easy to install. Produced in roll and tile form. Has the following advantages:

  • resistance to biological, mechanical and chemical influences;
  • inertness to moisture absorption;
  • light weight, which simplifies delivery and lifting to heights;
  • environmental cleanliness and safety;
  • long service life in high humidity conditions.

The material has some disadvantages - resistance to heating temperatures up to 300 degrees, the possibility of emitting a small amount of smoke upon fire.

Ecowool

An environmentally friendly and safe heat insulator, which contains cellulose, sodium tetraborate and boric acid. Thanks to its unique structure, ecowool is highly resistant to rotting, damage by fungi, mold and insects, and does not emit hazardous substances when heated.

The main advantages of the material include:

  • low thermal conductivity;
  • environmental friendliness and safety;
  • small mass;
  • long service life - up to 50 years;
  • high thermal insulation characteristics.

The negative aspects of insulation are its high moisture absorption rate and the need to use specialized equipment for installation.

Expanded clay

A natural porous thermal insulator made of clay, which is successfully used to insulate wooden bath ceilings. The main advantages of the material are:

  • environmental friendliness and practicality;
  • low thermal conductivity;
  • durability and safety of use;
  • high thermal insulation properties;
  • resistance to burning and rotting;
  • resistance to damage by fungi, mold and bacteria;
  • inertness to high humidity;
  • affordable price.

Sawdust with cement and clay

Environmentally friendly insulation for a bathhouse on the ceiling, characterized by accessibility, practicality and safety. It is made from natural ingredients - clay, cement and sawdust, and therefore has high thermal insulation properties. The thermal conductivity of the insulating layer is determined by its thickness and structure density.

The main advantages include:

  • environmental friendliness and accessibility;
  • resistance to combustion and high temperatures;
  • high rate of heat and sound insulation.

Insulation technology

The choice of a suitable method of ceiling insulation is determined by the design features of the bathhouse building - the presence of an attic, attic, flat or pitched roof.

In practice, the following options for insulating a bath ceiling are used:

  • Hemmed - for large baths.
  • Flooring – for small-sized buildings.
  • Panel – for various types designs.

The main requirement for arranging ceiling bases is the presence of properly installed waterproofing and vapor barrier - reliable protection of the insulating material from high humidity.

Flat ceiling

The floor ceiling structure consists of 5 cm thick boards mounted on the bath walls. It is used for buildings with a cold roof up to 250 cm wide.

Insulation of the ceiling in a bathhouse with a cold roof, in which an attic is provided, is carried out using sawdust, clay or expanded clay.

All do-it-yourself ceiling insulation work is carried out step by step as follows:

  1. Vapor barrier material (film or roofing felt) is laid overlapping on the ceiling flooring and secured with metal staples or nails.
  2. Next, install thermal insulation protection - mineral or basalt wool.
  3. If bulk insulation is used - expanded clay, sawdust with cement or clay, an additional edge should be installed around the perimeter of the ceiling surface. Layer thickness bulk insulation is 30 cm.
  4. The multilayer structure is covered waterproofing material– polyethylene film or membrane.
  5. Finally, a wooden flooring made of boards or plywood sheets is installed.

false ceiling

The hemming type design ensures the creation of a practical bath ceiling. The boards are mounted to the load-bearing floors from the inside functional premises and from the attic side.

Multilayer thermal insulation is installed between the floorings. The installation process includes the following steps:

  1. Lay a vapor barrier film or membrane on ceilings overlap by 12 cm with overlap on wall surfaces. The canvases are fixed with thin wooden slats, which are stuffed in compliance with minimal technological gaps. A double layer of vapor barrier and insulation material is laid over the steam room.
  2. On ceiling structure mounted to the slats wooden lining, pre-treated with antiseptic impregnation.
  3. The load-bearing beams in the attic are insulated with expanded clay, basalt or mineral wool. Thermal insulation is laid in a dense layer without gaps or cracks. The height of the insulating layer is 10 cm.
  4. A waterproofing protection is mounted on the heat insulator with an overlap of 12 cm, with the joints tightly sealed.
  5. Finally, the installation of wooden flooring from boards or plywood is carried out.

Panel ceiling

A panel ceiling pie is a panel structure made of identical bars interconnected. This is the most complex and labor-intensive type of ceiling base that can be installed in a private bathhouse.

How to insulate a ceiling with wooden panels step by step:

  1. A board up to 65 cm long is nailed to parallel bars one at a time. The wood is carefully treated with an antiseptic compound. The protrusion of the wooden elements on all sides of the structure is 6 cm. During the joining process, an insulating layer is installed in the gaps formed.
  2. A vapor barrier protection is fixed to the inside of the shield with an overlap of 10 cm.
  3. The prepared structure is mounted on a lathing installed on the bottom of the ceiling beams.
  4. Moisture-resistant thermal insulation is installed in the ceiling panels - mineral wool, basalt wool or expanded clay.
  5. Finally, a vapor barrier layer of polyethylene film is installed, which provides reliable protection from steam and high humidity.
  6. At the bottom of the ceiling, linden, cedar or aspen lining is mounted to the sheathing.

Insulating a bath ceiling is a responsible process. Using reliable and durable insulation, as well as following the technology of their installation, any bathhouse owner will be able to independently carry out the entire range of insulation work, obtaining a practical structure for comfortable rest and strengthening the body.

Save high temperature and hot steam in the bathhouse for a long time is the main goal of the owners. Only comprehensive insulation of the structure gives the desired result. Heated air moves upward, so the main barrier keeping it indoors should be a ceiling with high-quality, properly insulated material.

The main requirements for the materials with which it is planned to insulate the ceiling:

  • fire resistance;
  • environmental friendliness, no toxic emissions when heated;
  • moisture resistance.

The listed criteria are met by modern insulation materials and available materials that have been used for centuries. Among such materials are sawdust and clay. By using natural ingredients Inexpensive and reliable insulation for a false ceiling is being prepared. A layer of softened clay becomes a reliable barrier to moisture.

A common material for thermal insulation is mineral wool. There are several types of material:

Glass wool is an inexpensive and durable insulation that can withstand temperatures from −60º to +400º C. During installation, it breaks into sharp threads, so working with it requires a respirator, a protective suit and goggles. The thermal insulation layer is 10-20 cm.

Basalt wool does not burn and can withstand temperatures up to +1000º C. It is used to insulate not only the ceiling, but also the points of contact with the chimney pipe.

To insulate the steam room, a material with a foil layer is recommended. Basalt fiber allows steam to pass through well and does not absorb moisture like other types of mineral wool. The material is resistant to deformation, does not rot, and is not afraid of rodents and microorganisms. Its cost is higher than glass wool, but its characteristics are better. The main condition for using mineral wool is its careful insulation from moisture.

Expanded clay - porous clay granules. Bulk material has low thermal conductivity and affordable cost. Granules of different fractions are used, this allows you to pour a dense layer. Before insulating the ceiling in a bathhouse, made using the flooring method, the boards are coated with clay. The result is a durable structure that can withstand the weight of expanded clay in a layer of 15-25 cm. To limit the bulk material, a side made of boards is installed. Hygroscopic insulation is placed on vapor barrier film and covered with a layer of waterproofing.

Foamed polyethylene with foil allows you to create the effect of a thermos in the bathhouse. Infrared heat waves rise to the ceiling, where they are reflected by the metal layer. The insulation is safe, moisture-resistant, and can be easily installed using a stapler and special tape. The combination of a heat insulator with mineral wool will create the maximum energy-saving effect.

What materials to use for vapor and waterproofing

The vapor barrier film protects the insulation from moisture penetrating from the room. For use in a bathhouse, a material with a reflective layer is offered. The canvas is laid with an overlap, and the joints are closed with foil tape. To improve the tightness of the coating, it is nailed with staples and taped on top.

The insulation is waterproofed using thick polyethylene film, foil on a layer of kraft paper, or building membranes that allow steam to pass through.

Varieties of ceiling design in a bathhouse

The technology of ceiling insulation depends on its design. There are three types of construction:

  • grazing;
  • hemmed;
  • panel.

An important condition for ensuring high-quality thermal insulation for any ceiling design is to preserve the insulation from moisture. Using modern materials or affordable clay and sawdust is the choice of bathhouse owners.

Step-by-step insulation for various types of ceilings

The flooring option involves laying boards directly on the walls. This is the simplest and most cost-effective method; it is used for buildings no more than 2.5 m wide. Typically, such a bathhouse does not have an attic. The ceiling is insulated from the outside.

  1. A layer of vapor barrier is laid on the flooring and secured with a stapler or small nails.
  2. Mineral wool is placed on top of the film. When using bulk insulation (expanded clay, sawdust with clay), it is necessary to fill the enclosing edge around the perimeter of the ceiling.
  3. The resulting multi-layer cake is covered with a waterproofing sheet.
  4. Most often, thermal insulation is pressed against boards laid in increments of 40-50 cm.

The hemmed structure creates a reliable and durable ceiling. The boards are attached to load-bearing beams from inside the room and from the attic. Laying of multilayer thermal insulation occurs between the floorings. The insulation technology includes several stages:

  1. On ceiling beams a vapor barrier film is attached. A material with a layer of foil is used, it is laid with an overlap of 10 cm and with the same overlap on the walls. Reliable fixation of the canvas and the ventilation gap between it and the finish will be ensured by stuffing thin slats. It is recommended to stretch two layers of vapor barrier over the steam room and lay double the amount of insulation.
  2. Antiseptic-treated lining or edged board nailed to the beams. Tongue and groove lumber creates a denser ceiling surface.
  3. On the attic side, insulation - expanded clay or basalt wool - is placed between the beams. Properly laid material creates a dense layer, without gaps.
  4. The height of the insulation should not reach the top of the beams by 3-5 cm, this will create space for ventilation.
  5. The thermal insulation material is covered with a waterproofing film laid with an overlap of 10 cm.
  6. The flooring is made of durable boards.

The panel ceiling consists of individual panels made of short boards and beams.

  1. Boards 60 cm long are placed on two parallel beams. The wood is pre-treated with an antiseptic. On each side the board protrudes by 5 cm; when joining, insulation is placed in these gaps.
  2. WITH inside a vapor barrier is attached to the panels.
  3. Finished structures are laid on the lathing, stuffed at the bottom of the floor beams.
  4. Moisture-resistant insulation is inserted at the joints of the panels.
  5. Mineral wool, expanded clay or other material is placed in each shield.
  6. The thermal insulation is completed by a polyethylene film, which protects the finished floor of the attic from moisture. Lining made of linden, cedar or aspen is stuffed onto the sheathing in the lower part of the ceiling.

Proper insulation of the ceiling will provide hot steam and a pleasant relaxation in the bathhouse.