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» How to put together a toilet from boards. How to build an outdoor toilet. Prices for wood hacksaws

How to put together a toilet from boards. How to build an outdoor toilet. Prices for wood hacksaws

Even if you have a large house with amenities, this is not a reason to refuse summer toilet and soul. In summer, late spring and early autumn, we spend most of our time outside. Carrying dirt into the house every time you want to go to the toilet... This is not only irrational, but also fraught with scandals with those who clean the house. Exit? Buy a ready-made toilet cabin? But the simplest one will cost 6-7 thousand rubles. We suggest you make a toilet in your country house with your own hands. You will find drawings, dimensions and recommendations for the construction of cabins such as “teremok”, “hut”, “birdhouse” as you read the article.

Regulatory requirements for the placement of toilets in private households

You should know that:

  • If the toilet design includes a cesspool with a volume of more than 1 m 3, then its construction must be coordinated with local authorities for the protection of groundwater.
  • SanPiN 42-128-4690-88 gives clear instructions on the placement of a toilet within your site:
  • the distance from the cesspool to the well is 20-50 m (depending on the type of soil);
  • the distance from the cesspool to the house is at least 15 m, but in agreement with neighbors can be reduced to 5-8 m;
  • from the toilet to the road at least 1.5 m.
  • If the maximum groundwater level to the bottom of the cesspool is less than 1 meter, then the only option available to you is a “dry” toilet, or, as it is also called, a powder closet. Details in the article "".
  • The depth of the pit should not exceed 3 m. To ensure normal ventilation, there should be at least 0.35 m from the top of the pit to the sewage level.
  • If the area of ​​the adjacent area does not allow the toilet to be moved away from the house, then a latrine is installed near the blank wall of the building, away from the terraces and windows. In order to pump out sewage, to back wall the structure must have free access (approach).
  • How big should the cesspool be? It is believed that on average one person produces up to 600 liters of urine and feces per year. Family of 4 people - 2400 l or 2.4 m 3. Pits with a volume of 4-5 cubic meters Enough to meet the needs of a small family.
  • The bottom and walls of the cesspool must be concreted (the walls can be made of brick, rubble, or logs), and then carefully plastered from the inside. The bottom of the pit is made at a slope (minimum 15 o) so that urine and feces flow towards the hatch, as shown in the picture of a backlash closet with a Birdhouse type booth.

Materials for building a toilet stall

How to make a toilet “for centuries”, but not go broke on building materials? First, conduct an audit of the local area. Perhaps after construction work, you still have a sheet of corrugated board or pieces of unedged board. You will need all this in order to build a toilet in your country house with your own hands. Well, we will provide you with drawings and advice.

Based on the type of materials used, all booths can be divided into three groups:

Toilet with metal frame:

  • Vertical racks: profile pipe with a cross section of at least 40 x 40 x 4, or a corner from 63 x 63 x 5 or more.
  • Transverse stiffeners: corner 50 x 50 x 5.
  • Wall covering: corrugated sheeting.
  • Toilet floor and toilet seat: edged board, 40 mm thick, preferably larch.
  • Roof sheathing: edged boards, 10-15 mm thick.
  • Roof: PS-10 corrugated sheeting, metal tiles.

Toilet with wooden frame:

  • Upper and lower trim: timber 100 x 100, 150 x 150.
  • Racks: timber 50 x 70, 50 x 100.
  • Wall covering: edged board, 10-25 mm thick. If you don’t want to admire the cracks in the walls in a year, cover the frame with plank.
  • Floor and toilet seat: planed board, 30-40 mm thick.
  • Roof rafters: timber 50 x 100.
  • Lathing for soft roofing: unedged board 10-25 mm, OSB boards or moisture-resistant plywood.
  • Roof: bitumen tiles, corrugated sheets, metal tiles.

Brick toilet:

  • Walls: brick. If you make half-brick masonry, then 51 bricks will be required for 1 m2 of walls (including seams). For a small toilet with dimensions of 1.5 x 1.5 x 2.0 m you will need about 230 bricks. Expensive? You can make walls from foam blocks. Although this material requires additional decorative finishing, it is warmer, cheaper and installed much faster.
  • Floor and toilet seat: edged board, 40 mm thick.
  • Roof: any roofing material– from slate to soft roofing.
  • Lathing and rafter system roofs: timber 50 x 100, unedged boards, OSB sheet (for soft roofing).

The lists did not include: concrete, formwork, pipes and exhaust caps, door leaf, fittings, hinges, windows, waterproofing between the foundation and walls.

"Birdhouse"

One of the simplest and most common toilet designs in the local area. Below are instructions on how to build this country toilet with your own hands step by step.

  • We're digging a hole. We accept its dimensions (volume), guided by the recommendations given at the beginning of the article. If the cesspool is planned to be concreted, then we make formwork.
  • We lay the foundation (bottom frame) for the toilet stall. It can be welded from channels, but for the option shown in the figure, a wooden beam 150 x 150 mm was used. Please note that the rear base beam conditionally divides the cesspool into two equal parts. After the foundation beams have been positioned and secured, concrete is poured into the formwork. Required condition– top of concrete and top edge the beams must be in the same horizontal plane. Processing wood bitumen mastic. In places where the timber comes into contact with the concrete, we lay roofing felt.
  • We assemble the frame of the cabin from timber 50 x 100 mm. We make the two front vertical posts 30-40 cm higher than the rear ones. This is how the silhouette of the booth is formed, for which the toilet is nicknamed the “birdhouse.” We close the cesspool behind the cabin with an inclined panel structure.
  • We cover the walls of the building with clapboard or edged boards. IN panel structure We make a hatch for pumping out feces. Hardwood (30-40 mm) is used for the plank flooring and toilet seat.
  • Slots are made in the upper trim of the frame into which rafters made of 50 x 100 mm timber are inserted. They are not fastened with self-tapping screws. edged board. The top layer of the roof is a sheet of metal tile or slate.
  • The sheathing, floor boards and toilet seat are successively coated with antiseptic, stain and varnish. The last to be mounted ventilation pipes, which are attached with clamps to the sheathing boards.

Drawing of a country toilet Birdhouse

"Shalash"

When groundwater comes close to the surface, the only option for setting up a latrine is a powder closet. There is no cesspool in this toilet, and under the toilet seat there is a container (tank) that needs to be emptied periodically. To prevent odors from the toilet from spreading throughout the entire area, place a reservoir with sawdust, ash or peat next to the toilet seat. After visiting the toilet, feces are “powdered”, and as the container is filled, they are taken out to the compost heap.

For powder closets, hut-shaped booths are often installed. You can make a similar toilet design with your own hands in a couple of days, and the cost of materials, frankly speaking, is inspiring.

The booth is installed in the following order:

  • For the foundation, you can use sand-cement blocks or lay a red brick strip around the perimeter of the hut base. The foundation is covered with roofing felt.
  • A drawing of the hut toilet is shown below. The first step is to make the front and back walls of the booth. They are connected to each other with a 100 x 100 mm beam and an edged board, which will act as a roof sheathing. The frame of the toilet seat is assembled from timber and attached to the back wall.
  • The inside of the toilet is lined with clapboard. A “spectacle” hole is cut out in the toilet seat flooring. Install the cabin on the foundation.
  • The roof can be made of metal tiles or corrugated sheets, screwing it with self-tapping screws to the sheathing boards. The building will look like a real forest hut if the roof is covered with boards 2.0-2.1 meters long, which must be pre-treated with an antiseptic. They are nailed to the sheathing, starting from the bottom edge of the roof, so that each top board overlaps half of the bottom one (overlapping). A shingle roof is made in a similar way.
  • The ridge is reinforced with a galvanized sheet, as shown in the drawing of the Teremok toilet. The boards of the toilet seat are sanded, all wooden surfaces are covered with stain and varnish.

The roof in such a cabin reaches almost to the ground, so the walls and floor inside remain dry even in the heaviest rain.

Dimensions of the toilet for the Shalash dacha

"Teremok"

The Teremok toilet, hidden in the dense greenery of your garden, looks like a real fairy-tale hut. But its beautiful and unusual shape is not its only advantage. The rhombic (in cross-section) shape of the building prevents the accumulation of snow on the roof and provides good protection from the wind.

You can put a dry toilet in the “house”, but in principle, such a cubicle is also suitable for arranging a backlash closet - a toilet with cesspool. The assembly of the “teremok” and “hut” cabins is carried out in a similar order:

  • The base (bottom frame) of the cabin is made from 150 x 150 timber.
  • The front and rear walls of the booth are assembled separately, after which they are connected to each other with a 100 x 100 beam and an edged board (lathing). The structure is attached to the base. The seat of the toilet seat is formed from timber and edged boards. To connect the beams together, use a fastening metal corner.
  • Lay the floor and seat of the toilet seat from planed boards with a thickness of at least 30 mm.
  • The cabin is lined with clapboard.
  • An OSB sheet is attached to the gable roof sheathing with self-tapping screws, on top of which bituminous (soft) shingles are glued.
  • All wooden surfaces are treated with an antiseptic, and the base beam is coated with bitumen mastic.

The dimensions of the “teremok” toilet for a summer residence can be taken from the sketch given in the article. The main difficulty in buildings of this type is to maintain the symmetry of the right and left sides of the cabin.

Country toilet project Teremok

Toilet combined with shower

The article, using several examples, shows how to build a country toilet with your own hands, but no, not a single mention of a shower. We are in a hurry to correct this mistake, and will tell you how to build an outdoor shower and toilet under one roof. This idea will save you not only money, but also the area of ​​your local area. The diagram shows that the toilet and shower are separated by a wall (separate entrance), but the foundation, load-bearing walls and roof are common, which means that construction costs will be reduced by about a third.

Installation of the structure occurs in the following order:

  • We mark the axes of the foundation and dig holes for pouring concrete pillars. At the bottom of the hole, 50-60 cm deep, pour 10 cm of sand, tamp it and pour concrete. If you don’t want to bother with formwork, then instead of a columnar foundation, you can lay a ribbon of red brick around the perimeter of the building. Top part supporting structure should protrude from the ground surface by 70-100 mm.
  • On the pillars, through a layer of waterproofing, we place a base (bottom frame) made of 150 x 150 mm timber. We install vertical posts made of 50 x 100 timber at the corners. We use fastening angles for connection. We lay the top frame made of 100 x 100 timber on the racks.
  • Shower. We dig a trench and lay sewer pipe, through which water from the shower will flow into the septic tank. We fill the floor in the shower with expanded clay and fill it with concrete. We distribute the expanded clay so that the water flows by gravity into the drain hole in the center. Cover the hardened concrete with a layer of bitumen-rubber mastic. On top, on the square of the trim, we lay the shower flooring from edged boards, leaving 15-20 mm gaps between them. Water enters the room from a tank, which on one side rests on the roof of the building.
  • Toilet. The room was built for the installation of a peat dry closet, so there is no provision for a cesspool underneath it. The floor in the restroom is poured with concrete and tiles are laid on top.
  • We cover the frame from the inside with clapboard, from the outside with corrugated sheets, and lay expanded polystyrene slabs in the wall. We make a door in the back wall of the toilet through which containers with feces can be changed.
  • On the beam top harness we lay the rafters (50 x 100), sew on them an unedged board, 10 mm thick. Upper layer roofing - corrugated sheeting, which is attached to self-tapping screws. Dimensions (dimensions) of a country toilet and shower combined in one building are 1.45 x 2.8 meters. This area is enough to provide enough space for a bench in the shower, and for a box of peat in the toilet.

Dimensions of a country toilet with shower

About ventilation

When building a toilet for a summer house, do not forget about ventilation. The latrine should be equipped with:

  • Supply ventilation. It is a small hole at the bottom of the toilet. Only done in stone toilets. Covered with a grill or mosquito net.
  • Exhaust ventilation from the top of the pit. If the cesspool is planned to be closed concrete slab ceiling, then at the stage of assembling the formwork for the ventilation pipe, a mortgage is left. Asbestos-cement and sewer pipes are the most commonly used material for ventilation. They are run along the back of the cabin (outside) and secured to the casing with clamps. To improve natural draft, the pipe is brought to sunny side and painted black. The head is raised 70-80 cm above the roof.
  • Exhaust ventilation from the top of the cabin. In order not to make another head, the pipe is connected to the ventilation of the cesspool.

Interesting! A homemade deflector made from an old bucket without a bottom and a cap attached to the bucket with staples will help to increase the draft in the toilet ventilation pipe. Scheme of this original design shown in the figure below. 1 – cap made of galvanized sheet, 2 – bucket without bottom, 3 – staples (8 pcs.), 4 – clamp, 5 – fasteners, 6 – ventilation pipe.

DIY deflector

The first thing an owner does when building a house is build a toilet. Without this structure, even minimal comfort becomes an unattainable dream. We hope that the information and sketches presented will help you make your own country toilet project. If you have your own ideas, or find errors in the text or pictures, then please write to us. We invite theorists and practitioners to the discussion.

August 2, 2016
Specialization: professional in the field of construction and repair (full cycle of finishing work, both internal and external, from sewerage to electrical and finishing work), installation of window structures. Hobbies: see the column "SPECIALIZATION AND SKILLS"

A warm toilet and sewerage system in a village house is the dream of every summer resident. And this is quite understandable: if a person has ever run out in the rain into a wooden structure standing near a fence, then he will definitely appreciate the benefits of a bathroom located in the house itself.

In principle, arranging a toilet is not one of the most complex tasks. Having studied specialized literature and developed a suitable project, it is quite possible to implement it yourself. Of course, you will have to work hard, but you can definitely do it in one season.

Circuit diagrams: 2 options

At one time, thinking about how to build a warm toilet in a private house, I analyzed several projects for such structures. By and large, they all boiled down to the implementation of one of two options:

From a comfort point of view, this is not the best solution.

  1. We make a classic bathroom with a water supply, a toilet and the removal of wastewater through a pipeline into a storage tank - a cesspool or. A variation of this option is to connect the waste circuit to a centralized sewerage system, but in the private sector where my house was located, there was no such benefit of civilization.

  1. We are setting up a separate room, in which we install a dry closet. In principle, for the functioning of such a system there is no need to lay a water supply: it is enough to install a small washbasin for carrying out hygienic procedures, and collect the waste water (there will be very little of it) in a container and pour it into a cesspool on the street.

By and large, the choice between these two options depends on the availability of a water supply system: if there is a water supply system, or we plan to have one, then the design includes a scheme with a toilet and a drain through a sewer pipe. But for a small country house, in which we do not spend much time, a dry closet would be a completely acceptable solution.

Since in my case the water supply was available, I chose a scheme with a septic tank. However, I also analyzed the options with a cesspool and dry closet in sufficient detail, so in the descriptions I will pay attention to the features of their implementation.

Place for waste

cesspool

Before making a comfortable bathroom in a wooden house, we need to make sure that we have a place to remove waste water. There are two solutions here - one is simpler, the second is more convenient to use.

A simple solution is to install a cesspool - a reservoir in which wastewater accumulates until it is pumped out by a sewage treatment plant. It is worth making a cesspool if you use your country house relatively infrequently: the smaller the volume of wastewater, the less often you will have to pump it out, therefore, the lower the financial costs.

Making a cesspool is extremely simple:

  1. We choose a place in a lowland, at a distance of at least 5 m from the wall of the house and at least 12 - 15 m from the water intake points (well or borehole).
  2. We remove the fertile soil layer to a depth of approximately 0.5 m and an area of ​​​​about 3-5 m2. The removed soil can be used in garden beds, or it can be returned to its place by covering the pit lid with turf.
  3. We dig a pit up to 2.5 m deep and an area of ​​2-3 m2.
  4. To avoid contamination of the soil and groundwater with fecal matter, we seal the bottom of the pit. I would use a 20 cm thick layer of clay laid on three layers of plastic film.

If finances allow, or you want to achieve maximum reliability, then about 10 cm of concrete can be poured on top of the clay.

  1. The option with earthen walls is quite viable, but short-lived. To secure the structure, it is better to use a lathing made of tightly fitted boards (lasts up to 10 years). Well, if possible, make a box from old ceramic bricks: according to experts, such a pit will definitely last for 20-25 years.
  2. From above, the structure is covered with either thick boards or concrete slabs. A hole must be made in the ceiling for a hatch through which pumping will be carried out.

Septic tank

The obvious disadvantage of a cesspool is its inevitable overflow. To avoid the need for frequent pumping, I installed a two-chamber septic tank on my country property.

The instructions for making a septic tank may differ depending on its configuration, but since I had the task of implementing the most economical option, I did this:

  1. First, at a distance from the house and from the well with an installed pump, a pit was dug 2.5 m deep, 3 m long and 1.5 m wide. Since the volume of excavated soil was impressive, I had to involve two assistants in the work, otherwise the work would have been delayed.
  2. Then two adjacent chambers were built from ceramic bricks inside the pit. In this case, the first chamber was folded “solidly”, and holes were made in the lower part of the second chamber in the masonry.

Under no circumstances should you use sand-lime brick, which cannot withstand prolonged contact with a liquid, especially one as aggressive as sewage. An alternative ceramic brick can become monolithic concrete chambers, concrete rings For sewer wells and even tires from heavy trucks.
The ideal option is to generally buy a plastic container for the septic tank, but here I was stopped by the rather high price.

  1. The bottom of the first chamber - the settling tank - was covered with a 15 cm layer of clay, after which I concreted it for maximum tightness.
  2. In the bottom of the second chamber - the filtration well - I used an old auger ice drill to make about a dozen holes 0.5 m deep to improve drainage. Coarse gravel was poured into the holes, and the same gravel was laid on the bottom in a layer of about half a meter.

  1. An overflow tube was installed between the chambers at a height of approximately 1.7 m from the bottom.
  2. In the sump, at a distance of 50 cm from the ground level, I made a hole for installing a drain pipe.
  3. From above, the entire structure was covered with a concrete slab with holes for two hatches. Separately, it was necessary to drill a groove in the concrete to install a 1.5 m high pipe.

The advantage of this solution, despite its labor intensity, is the long battery life: the wastewater, entering the settling tank, is divided into fractions, while the clarified liquid is poured into the second chamber, where it is gradually filtered into the ground.

Since I add special bacterial cultures to the septic tank and use country sewerage not so often, then pumping has to be done every three years. And to be honest, this is for preventive purposes - according to my estimates, the system can operate for another couple of years without compromising the quality of cleaning.

Pipe laying for home

Installing a sewer system in general and a toilet in particular in a private house involves transporting wastewater to a cesspool/septic tank/collector. To do this we need to lay an underground pipe:

  1. From the house to the tank we dig a trench at least 70 cm deep. The deeper the pipe is located, the less risk that winter time its contents will freeze.
  2. We make the bottom of the trench with a slope of about 2.5 - 3 cm per 1 m.
  3. We place sand bedding under the pipes. Optimal thickness bedding - 10-15 cm.
  4. We lay pipes (we use only products for external use) and carefully seal all joints.

In my case, the pipe ran in a straight line, but if you need to make a turn or lay a pipeline longer than 15 m, then it is mandatory to install at least one inspection well. I was convinced of the usefulness of such a structure when I had to help clear a sewer in a neighboring area: it is much easier to remove a blockage if there is access to the problem point of the pipe.

  1. We insulate the pipes using mineral wool or fiberglass, then fill them with soil and compact it thoroughly.

  1. We pass the pipe outlet into the hole that we left in the wall of the cesspool or septic tank.
  2. At the entrance to the house, we insert the pipe into the hole in the base and connect it to the internal riser.

Toilet in a country house

Arrangement of the premises

When making a toilet in a wooden house with our own hands, we often encounter constant humidity in the chosen room. You can solve the problem if you approach it as responsibly as possible:

  1. We choose the room itself in such a way that it is located near outer wall at home, as close to the cesspool as possible. This way we will save on pipes, and we won’t have to run communications between rooms.
  2. If a bathroom was not included in the design of a country house initially, at the first stage we make a partition, separating it from other rooms with a frame wall covered with plywood or OSB. To make the toilet really warm, we put thermal insulation material inside the frame.
  3. We install a door that separates the bathroom with all its sounds and smells from other rooms. To ensure air flow, there must be a gap of at least 5 mm between the bottom edge of the door and the threshold.
  4. We make holes in the walls and floor through which we enter the room. water pipes and a sewer pipe. We attach adapters/taps to the walls to connect the toilet and washbasin.

  1. We either leave the floor wooden, covering it with several layers of waterproofing composition with an antiseptic, or cover it with ceramic tiles.

  1. We also protect the walls from moisture by treating them with waterproofing or sheathing plastic panels. In the second case, additional insulation can be carried out by placing polystyrene foam, mineral wool or foil-coated polymer fabric under the sheathing frame.
  2. We must make a ventilation hole under the ceiling. You can get by with a simple air vent, but I preferred to install a simple electric fan, and switched its power to a separate switch - this made forced ventilation of the bathroom much more convenient.

Option with toilet

As I noted above, it is best to make an ordinary toilet in a private house with a classic toilet and sink. Installing equipment in a room with connected communications is a fairly simple task:

  1. First we fix the toilet. To do this, we fix a thick board impregnated with a moisture-proof compound to the floor (wooden or tiled) with anchors. We place the toilet base on the board and secure it with the included fasteners.
  2. We connect the toilet flush to the outlet of the sewer pipe coming out of the floor or wall using a rubber cuff. To seal this unit we use plumbing silicone.
  3. We install a tank on the base of the toilet, to which we attach a hose for supplying water from the water supply. Connect the other end of the hose to the tap at the end of the water pipe.

  1. We hang the sink on the wall in the selected location. We connect the drain elbow of the sink to a pipe, which is then connected to the general sewer circuit.
  2. We install a faucet either on the sink or on the wall above it. We screw hoses with hot (from the boiler) and cold water to the mixer outlets.

The entire system we have created will only work effectively if both the toilet and sink are located above the drain level. Otherwise, and also if you plan to use the sewer very actively, I would recommend additionally installing a sewer pump into the system, which will ensure forced removal of wastewater.

Option with dry toilet

Make a comfortable toilet in the country without a cesspool and internal water supply is also possible. Naturally, a room will also have to be equipped for this, but direct waste disposal will be carried out using biological treatment systems.

Today, there are several types of dry toilets suitable for use in private homes:

Device type Description
Compost Systems with partial waste disposal operate either on peat or on a mixture of peat and sawdust. When interacting with fecal matter, the material is effectively composted, and the next portions are poured into the container using an auto-dispenser.

Full recycling systems work on a similar principle, but composting is performed more efficiently, and at the end we additionally receive a fairly effective fertilizer.

Separation During the waste disposal process, wastewater is separated into liquid and solid fractions: solid faeces are then removed for composting, and the liquid is filtered in a special unit.
Thermal The system requires about 5 kW of power to operate, so the toilet can only be installed in houses with a good power supply. During disposal, waste is burned to ash, and moisture evaporates through a special condenser.
Cryogenic Fecal matter entering the dry closet is frozen, which allows you to destroy almost all microorganisms and get rid of the unpleasant odor. The downside is that the operation of the system depends on the presence of voltage in the network, so I would not recommend such a device for a private home.

Even if you limit yourself to the simplest models that work on peat, you can provide yourself with a fairly high level of comfort. However, this system is unlikely to compare with a full-fledged toilet, so I would still advise considering the possibility of creating a full-fledged wastewater removal system - albeit based on a simple cesspool.

Budgeting references

When starting work, you need to draw up an estimate that takes into account all costs. Doing basic operations yourself allows you to significantly optimize your budget, but you will still have to buy materials. A table containing estimated prices will help you at this stage.

Using the information provided in it, you can predict at least the order of the amount you will need.

Material Unit/capacity Estimated cost, rubles
Sewer pipe for external works 110 mm 1 linear m 125 — 200
Sewer pipe for interior work 50 mm 1 linear m 75 — 150
Metal-plastic water pipe 16 mm 1 linear m 70 — 120
Storage container for septic tank 1 m3 18000
Septic tank TANK-1 1.2 m3 19500 — 22000
Waterproofing impregnation for wood 10 l 800 — 1500
Penetrating primer with antiseptic 5 l 250 — 500
Waterproofing mastic 5 kg 1200 — 1700
Tile adhesive CM 9 25 kg 220 — 400
Grout for tiles 5 kg 600 – 1200
Budget tiles m2 45 — 90
Mid-level tiles m2 250 -500
PVC lining for wall cladding m2 150 -250
Wooden beam for frame Panel 6 m 80 — 200
Galvanized steel profile Panel 3 m 150 — 350
Sink Rosa Standard PC. 850 — 950
Compact toilet Santek PC. 3100 — 3500
Dry toilet Thetford Porta Potti Qube 145 PC. 4000 — 4500
Biolan dry toilet (separation) PC. 26500 and above.

Naturally, only some expense items are taken into account here. To complete the project, you will need a lot more materials, including various solutions, sealants, fasteners, fittings, plumbing fittings, etc.

Conclusion

As practice shows, it is possible to make a warm toilet in a village house with your own hands. Of course, this is not a quick task, and it will require financial investments, but if you follow the advice I have given, and also carefully study the video in this article, then everything should work out.

In addition, questions that arise during the design process can be asked in the comments - I will answer you in the most detailed way.

August 2, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, or ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

You simply cannot do without a structure such as a toilet in a dacha. And if you decide to build a country toilet with your own hands, you will have to put in some effort and effort. The most difficult stage in construction will be digging a pit. As for the aesthetic side of the building, this is rather a secondary issue, because the main thing is to properly arrange the cesspool and create a reliable foundation for the above-ground structure.

Below we will discuss in detail the following points:

Choosing a place to build a toilet and its design.

What you will need to build a toilet.

Features of the cesspool design.

Construction of a country toilet house.

Using a dry closet at the dacha.

Biological toilet products.

How to build a country toilet with your own hands: photos, drawings, video

It’s worth noting right away that it’s better to do all the work once and then not return to this issue for many years. It is especially important to build a permanent structure if you spend a lot of time at your dacha. If you don’t want to spoil the design of the site by installing a regular toilet, then you can always hide it in the far corner behind the country house or invent it for it original design, which would allow it to fit harmoniously into the landscape.

Choosing a location for the toilet and its design features

As a rule, the toilet is installed closer to the far boundary land plot, since there will be a presence near the room bad smell, even if insignificant. But sometimes they use another option, making a cesspool not far from the house, and to place a toilet, they set aside a free corner of the house, leading the sewer pipe into the pit. This design is mainly used in cases where water has been brought into the house and it is planned to install an insulating container designed to collect waste.

Be that as it may, it is worth adhering to sanitary and epidemiological standards. They must be followed to protect yourself and the environment from negative consequences such as soil contamination or infectious diseases.

If you are planning to install a cesspool, it is important that it is located at a distance of at least 30 meters from water sources. Moreover, its depth should not reach groundwater.

If you are going to install a septic tank, then place it no closer than 15 meters from the house.

If you are going to use an insulated container that is cleaned as it is filled, it can be installed almost anywhere, since waste will not penetrate into the ground.

An insulated container is also suitable in cases where the groundwater does not run very deep and it is impossible to make a cesspool in the ground.

Most often, the pits of the simplest toilet for a summer residence have an area of ​​about 1 m2. If the pit is round, then its diameter should be approximately 1 meter. Its depth is 1.5-2 meters, depending on how the groundwater lies.

Once you decide on a place for the pit, proceed to choosing the design of the toilet. First of all, you must take into account the weight of the future structure - the choice of material that you are going to use for construction largely depends on it. Moreover, the house itself should not be made very heavy, since over time, under its weight, the soil may begin to sag and the building will become deformed and damaged.

Wooden boards or bars are excellent as building materials. thin material– corrugated sheets and galvanized profiles.

If you decide to build a toilet booth from bricks or logs, then you should think about high-quality strengthening of the foundation. But there is no point in building such structures, since they will not be warmer than light buildings. Unless you need to thermally insulate a room using insulation that is light in weight, for example, polystyrene foam. This building will be warm, light, windproof in winter and not too hot in summer.

Having decided on the choice of material, you can begin to select the size of the booth. If you decide to build a country toilet with your own hands, then we offer you the following drawings.

As a rule, a standard toilet, as you noticed in the drawings presented above, has a height of 2.3 meters, a width of 1 meter, and a length of 1.3-1.5 meters. But these dimensions can vary, and should not be viewed as dogma. Be that as it may, the room should be as comfortable as possible for all family members to be in it.

What you need to build a country toilet with your own hands

Having chosen the design and size of the toilet, you need to buy building materials. You can buy a metal or wooden “house” ready-made. If you decide to build it yourself, then be prepared for the fact that you will need the following materials:

  • wooden blocks and boards;
  • fasteners - screws and nails;
  • metal corners to strengthen the wooden frame;
  • roof covering material - corrugated board or slate;
  • door handle, latch or hook for closing;
  • wooden or plastic toilet seat with a lid;
  • polystyrene foam for insulation and material for covering insulated walls: thin board, chipboard or plywood (if necessary).

To construct a cesspool you will need:

  • crushed stone, cement, sand;
  • reinforcement to strengthen the foundation structure;
  • metal mesh netting (designed to cover the pit) and metal pins or brackets for attaching it to the ground.

Also, instead of mesh and plastering it with concrete, you can use brick to line the walls of the pit. Moreover, concrete rings that have holes in the walls are often used to construct pits. Many summer residents prefer old rubber tires.

Another good environmentally friendly option would be a ready-made container - a septic tank. You can find them most different sizes, so you will choose the one you need, depending on the length of your stay outside the city and the number of family members.

Of course, when building a country toilet with your own hands, you cannot do without special tools, so prepare in advance:

  • a bayonet or shovel with a short and long handle;
  • a hand drill that will help when digging a pit;
  • hammer drill (if the site has rocky soil);
  • screwdriver or hammer;
  • grinder – “grinder” with discs for metal and stone;
  • jigsaw;
  • marking tool - tape measure, ruler, square, pencil, building level or marker.

How to make a cesspool with your own hands?

Of course, you should start by marking and digging a hole, which can be round or square (depending on which design scheme for the country toilet you choose).

If you are planning to install a two-chamber plastic septic tank, then the hole is dug so that the inlet pipe is located in the toilet stall, since the toilet seat will be installed on it. The neck of the second chamber remains outside the room, as it is required to regulate the pumping of fecal matter.

Tanks can be different shapes, since the shape and dimensions of the pit depend on this. The size of the pit must be made 20 cm larger than the container, since the soil around it must be compacted as best as possible.

If the walls of the pit are lined with brick or concrete, it can be made square or round.

After you dig a hole of the required depth, you need to arrange drainage at the bottom from stones, coarse crushed stone, and fragments of bricks.

Then concrete mortar is applied to the walls using the casting method. It is left until completely dry. The total layer thickness can be approximately 50-80 mm.

When the first sketched layer has set, the walls are plastered to a perfectly smooth state with the same concrete mortar. Next, wait until the plastered pit dries.

The pit is covered or finished reinforced concrete slab, or you can make it yourself. It will act as a foundation and platform around the toilet.

Boards are laid on the pit itself. They should extend beyond its limits by approximately 700-800 mm and be recessed into the ground to the level with the ground. They are treated with antiseptic agents. Such a wooden base can easily be replaced with concrete pillars.

Two holes are left on the surface for the cesspool and installation of the toilet seat. Formwork is installed around them.

A dense polyethylene film is spread over the entire area of ​​the foundation.

A reinforcement grid is laid on top of it, which encloses the formwork of the future foundation along the entire perimeter.

As for the height of the formwork of the holes, it should be exactly the same as the formwork of the entire foundation structure. When leveling the surface, the formwork boards will act as beacons.

The concrete solution is mixed, then poured onto the site, carefully leveled and left to dry. For the strength and durability of the concrete layer after the initial setting, you can “ironize” the wet surface using dry cement.

After the site has matured, you can install a toilet booth on it. The hole that is intended for pumping out waste will need a hatch. You can buy it in a store or make it yourself. The hatch cover should be easy to close and open.

Another good option is round form pits made from tires. But do not forget that this type of pit cannot be used for regular users. Such a toilet can only be used in a country house, and only if the owners come occasionally, for example, on weekends, otherwise they will have to resort to pumping out waste very often.

To make a pit from car tires a round pit is dug out 150-200 mm larger than the diameter of the tires.

A drainage having a thickness of 15-20 cm is laid at the bottom of the pit.

Then the tires are laid exactly in the center of the pit to the ground surface. As they are laid around the tires, a drainage layer of sand and gravel is poured and compacted well. This process is carried out to the top.

When the tires are laid, it is recommended to build a strip foundation around the pit. To do this, a trench about 500 mm deep is dug along the entire perimeter of the future structure, into which concrete is poured.

The bottom of the trench is compacted and then filled with 50-70 mm of sand. It also needs to be compacted and covered with a layer of crushed stone of exactly the same thickness.

The waterproofing is made of dense polyethylene.

Next, you can weld a lattice from reinforcement, install it and mount the formwork 100-150 mm above ground level, and then fill it with concrete mortar. Make a brick foundation and then plaster it with cement.

After the mortar has hardened, remove the formwork from the cement foundation and level the brick foundation on top. Then roofing material is laid on its surface. He will separate concrete surface from wood.

Then the finished structure of the country toilet is installed on the foundation, or it is built independently.

For ease of construction, a base frame consisting of powerful bars is first fixed to the foundation, and then the remaining structural elements are mounted on it, depending on the building model you choose.

It is worth noting another option for arranging a cesspool - metal barrels with a cut bottom. They are installed on top of each other and then operate in the same way as in the case discussed above. A mixture of sand and crushed stone or a gravel mixture is compacted around the pipe.

It would seem that this method is simple to implement, but it has much more more disadvantages than advantages. Metal barrels under negative impact both the outside and the inside will quickly begin to corrode, and this toilet will not last long.

Do-it-yourself country toilet: building a house, photo

Once the pit and platform for installing the toilet are ready, you can begin assembling the house according to the previously drawn up diagram.

It’s worth saying right away that houses for country toilets can have a variety of shapes. Many people even make them in the form of a fairy-tale hut, and those around them may not immediately understand what kind of room fits so harmoniously into the landscape design. You can make such a structure with your own hands, having an idea of ​​​​its assembly scheme.

In the photo you will see an option partially made of logs, which give the structure a decorative appearance, masking the purpose of the building.

In the diagram you see the basis for building a house made of logs, only boards are used instead of logs. You can clearly see how the walls of the structure are assembled and the roof slopes rise. The internal space is distributed, and a place for the toilet seat is selected.

The next step will be roof sheathing, roofing and wall finishing using the selected material (both wood and metal can be used).

The house can be installed on a pit or used as a room for a dry closet.

This version of the toilet structure is called a “hut”. In this case, the house is built in the form of a triangle, and its side walls act as a roof. The form is extremely simple, so the construction process will not cause you any difficulties.

This design is easy to construct and easy to use - it is very stable and quite spacious inside.

In the photo you will see the entire internal structure, the installation location of the toilet seat and the sheathing of the roof walls. Finishing of the front and back walls has begun. You can place the “hut” house on a well-equipped cesspool, as in the above case, or use it as a room for a dry closet.

In this photo you see a house for a country toilet of a traditional shape, which is found in many areas. However, you can decorate even such a seemingly simple design according to your preference. For example, the toilet in this area was made into a Japanese house. This is evidenced by the hieroglyphs on the sign, which is suspended on chains; there is also a roof and a Japanese lantern at the entrance. Moreover, the interior space is also designed in the same style.

This attitude to design suggests that even from such a structure as a toilet, you can make a real work of art if you put in a little more effort.

An approximate construction diagram is shown in the photo. It clearly shows the cesspool, the installation of the toilet structure and the cleaning hatch. This design is quite simple in design and is not difficult to build. However, for it to be reliable, it is necessary to achieve rigidity of the ligaments of each of the parts among themselves. The internal space arranged above the cesspool may look like this during the construction of the walls. That is, a base of bars is installed directly on the foundation, onto which the frame of the building is subsequently fixed.

Upon completion of finishing the interior of the country toilet, the room will have a cozy and neat appearance, such as you see in the photo.

If you wish, you can come up with a different toilet design, but interior decoration necessary from warm materials. We do not recommend using it for finishing ceramic tiles because it's cold material, and in winter the tiles will also become slippery.

Dry toilet in a suburban area

If you cannot build a country toilet with your own hands or you do not have the desire or time to deal with construction work, then use a dry toilet. This option will save you from the need to dig a hole and install the house.

A biotoilet is nothing more than an autonomous toilet, which does not require either a connection to drainage communications or a separate room. It consists of two chambers, the top of which acts as a toilet, and the other is used for biological waste treatment. The lower chamber contains active substances that decompose feces, turning them into a homogeneous, odorless mass. The action of the bioactive liquid lasts for 10 days, after which the chamber is cleaned and the contents are poured into the soil or central sewer.

The choice of disposal method depends on what substances were used in the dry closet. They come in three types: chemical, composting and microorganic. Each of them is ideal for a specific type of dry closet.

For composting as active substance peat is used. It is characterized by high absorbency - 1 kg of peat can absorb 10 liters of liquid. Compost, which is odorless and obtained as a result of active processes, is perfect for fertilizing the garden.

As a rule, this compost toilet comes with ventilation pipes that remove unpleasant odors during processing.

The operation of a dry closet is based on the use chemical substances. It has an indicator that indicates when the container needs cleaning. Recycled waste is discharged into the sewer, and you do no harm environment. For such models there is special means with non-freezing property.

The third type is a dry toilet, in which microorganisms are responsible for the process of processing waste, turning it into compost. The material obtained in this way is environmentally friendly and absolutely safe for animals and soil, so it will not be difficult to dispose of it.

If necessary, you can install a dry closet in normal room, which is located in the yard, and in winter bring it into the house, allocating it for these needs comfortable spot.

What biological agents are used for toilets?

Owners country houses For those who have pit toilets on site, special means are offered (they are similar to those used in dry closets).

As you can see, there are many ways to solve the problem of a toilet in a country house - you can always choose the most suitable option.

For those who have decided to build a toilet in their country house with their own hands, drawings, dimensions, and sketches are the necessary help that does not allow you to deviate from the chosen technology or build a structure that is not suitable for use. Before proceeding with more precise developments, it is important to choose the type of design of the country toilet, its location and other parameters. They, in turn, depend on operating conditions, which indicates the need detailed analysis taking into account the perspective. For example, if there is a possibility that after some time the number of people visiting the dacha will increase, or you plan to equip the house in such a way that you can live in it longer, create a toilet in advance with the expectation of an increase in load, so that you do not have to redo it later .

The easiest way to build a toilet for a summer house with your own hands is wooden - drawings of such structures are not difficult to find, and in some cases it is enough step by step instructions no illustrations. However, a beautiful and reliable house is not enough to ensure comfort. It is important to take care of waste disposal. From this point of view, there are several options for a country toilet.

Backlash closet

The backlash closet is designed in such a way that waste from the toilet moves by gravity, collecting in the receiver, which is cleaned as it is filled. Typically, the movement of waste is facilitated by the inclined floor of the tank, which has a shape that expands in the direction from the toilet. The advantage of this design is that it is possible without the construction of a full-fledged sewer system. install the toilet in a warm room in the house, and move the tank outside to avoid odor. The part of the backlash closet located outside is equipped with a lid through which cleaning is carried out using a sewer machine. To ensure thermal insulation, it is made hermetically sealed and multi-layered (for example, made of metal and wood with a “layer” of thermal insulation material). The disadvantage of a backlash closet is that it is built into a load-bearing wall, which means that its arrangement is best done during the construction of the house.

The photo shows a diagram of the backlash toilet

Powder closet

The powder closet has a storage tank in which waste alternates with layers of backfill (“powdered”). Sawdust, peat, ash or a mixture of these components are used as such backfill. Backfilling is performed after each visit to the toilet. For purchased models, a special distributor is responsible for the distribution of the bulk mixture. Homemade ones use a regular bucket or other container with a scoop, which is installed in the toilet.

The advantages of the powder closet are:

  • the ability to use the contents of the country toilet storage tank to obtain organic, safe fertilizer (for this, when the tank is filled, it is unloaded into the tank for ripening),
  • solving the disposal issue (no need to call a sewer truck),
  • minimum excavation work (they will only be required to construct the foundation of the building, the tank is placed on the surface),
  • the possibility of constructing compact portable toilet models that can be brought into the house (for example, based on a regular bucket).

Drawing of a wooden powder closet with dimensions according to the “hut” type
Drawing of a country toilet like a powder-closet made of corrugated board, “birdhouse” type

Dry toilet

Dry toilets are structures in which waste is recycled. During the decomposition process, the contents of the tanks turn into sludge that is uniform in consistency, safe, takes up less space (and therefore requires less frequent emptying of the tank) and is convenient for pumping. In order to ensure the decomposition reaction, factory dry toilets use fillers, which can be:

  • peat mixture
  • chemically active reagents,
  • (dry or in the form of liquids), which are colonies of bacteria of a certain type.

Pit toilets

A country toilet with a cesspool is a kind of classic. Not the most convenient, but the simplest and cheapest option. All waste is collected in a storage tank, which is periodically cleaned using vacuum trucks. In some cases, the filled cesspool is covered with earth, moving the house to another place. In such a filled hole, after some time, compost is formed, which can be used to fertilize the soil. The most common (albeit least environmentally friendly) is the toilet option in which the cesspool has no bottom. It is only sometimes covered with crushed stone, gravel or other material through which filtration is carried out with partial drainage of the contents into the soil.

Important: When high level groundwater, it is advisable to replace such models of pits with sealed storage tanks.


Options for arranging a cesspool

Regardless of the presence of a sealed bottom, the toilet cesspool requires the construction of walls. Firstly, they prevent the collapse of the earth in the dug pit. Secondly, the walls prevent waste from seeping into the upper layers of the soil. For the construction of cesspools, a wide variety of cesspools are used, specially purchased, left over from the construction of other structures, or simply available materials. Let's look at the most common options.

Concrete rings

Choosing a site for construction

Difficult to formulate uniform requirements to choosing a place to build a toilet - much depends on the type of construction and the tightness of the storage tank (the likelihood of waste getting into the soil). When designing a toilet in a country house with your own hands, the drawings and dimensions are chosen taking into account a number of factors. When choosing the installation location, it is important to take into account the wind rose so that the toilet does not become a source of unpleasant sensations for the inhabitants of the dacha and their neighbors. If the design of the toilet involves periodic pumping of the contents using a sewer machine, it is necessary to provide possibility of convenient access special equipment to the site.

The most stringent requirements are imposed on non-hermetic models (primarily cesspools without a bottom). They must be installed at approximately average height if the site has complex terrain (in lowlands there is a high risk of groundwater contamination, and at height there is a high risk of structural destruction due to soil erosion). It is also important comply with the required distance of the toilet from the main objects(from the house - at least 12 meters, from the water source - 25 meters, from the plantings - 4 meters and no closer than 1 meter from the fence).

Materials and tools

The choice of materials for constructing a toilet in a summer cottage is largely determined by the choice of the type of waste disposal unit. For example, when installing a cesspool, you will need bricks, cement, concrete rings or plastic tanks - depending on what you choose. To build the frame of the house you will need:

  • timber with a section of 100x100 or 100x50 mm, 3 m long for the frame and vertical racks house,
  • timber 50x50 mm for the “podium” or step on which the seat will be installed inside,
  • Chipboard, boards, lining or other material for internal and external cladding,
  • Ruberoid and slate or corrugated sheeting for the roof.

We should also not forget that for a stationary structure it is necessary foundation- tape (you will need cement for the mortar) or columnar (cement or brick), as well as waterproofing (roofing felt or other similar material) that prevents contact between the structure and the frame in order to minimize the occurrence of rotting.

For ventilation you will need a plastic pipe with a diameter of 100 mm.

For ease of use, it is also good to install in a country toilet lighting– install electrical wiring and install a lamp or, at a minimum, equip the structure with a battery-powered lamp.

Layout and dimensions of country toilets

The scheme for constructing a country toilet is the same, in contrast to the parameters of the tanks, which are calculated in accordance with the intensity of use of the device, the number of people visiting the country house, seasonality and duration of such visits.

The classic option is a rectangular birdhouse. It is easy to implement and convenient to use. For comfort, it is enough to make the following dimensions of the toilet in the country with your own hands:

  • height – 2200 mm,
  • width – 1500 mm,
  • length 1000-1500 mm.

If such dimensions seem insufficient to the owner, you can build a toilet in the country with your own hands, the dimensions of which will be larger.

Supporters of aesthetics may prefer to build a country toilet with their own hands, using drawings of a more complex design - a “hut” house, which has a small base and practically consists of two inclined planes.


Types of houses for country toilets - “hut” and “birdhouse”



Construction step by step

For an example of the stage-by-stage implementation of construction work, we chose a “birdhouse”. This toilet scheme for a summer house is the easiest to implement.

Before starting work, the location of the future structure on the ground is marked.

1. The foundation is being completed. Strip structures are often recommended for installing a house, but many experts call a columnar foundation more practical for lightweight buildings. The simplest way to install it is to install asbestos pipes into the ground, into which the solution is poured and before it hardens, vertical pipes are installed wooden supports. It is important to control the position of the latter in terms of level, to ensure that no displacement occurs during the process of concrete gaining strength.

The construction of the foundation according to this scheme has its own nuances:

  • Asbestos pipes are covered with a waterproofing layer before installation.
  • The installation of vertical supports is carried out after filling the pipes with concrete to a third of the height and gaining strength with this portion of the solution.
  • The immersion depth of the support pipes depends on the type of soil and averages 0.5-0.7 m, but for unstable sandy soils it is advisable to increase the depth.

2. The frame of the future toilet structure is being built. The easiest way for this purpose is to use 100x100 (50) mm timber and wood hardware. To protect against moisture and rotting, the timber can be treated with impregnation or primed and painted. The solidity of the structure will be ensured by a metal frame, however, special equipment (welding machine) will be required for its construction.

The main elements of a reliable frame:

  • load-bearing vertical supports (the front pair is longer than the rear pair to ensure the slope of the roof),
  • two horizontal frames - for installing the roof and at the level of the toilet seat,
  • diagonal beams on the sides of the structure to give the structure rigidity,
  • supports and horizontal part of the doorway.

3. The toilet frame is covered with outside and inside. The material you can choose from is:

  • boards ( optimal width– 30 cm),
  • plywood,
  • corrugated sheets, etc.

4. The waterproofing layer and the main roof material are installed.
5. A door is hung, which is pre-equipped with a latch and a small window to allow light into the room (or a window can be made in the space above the door).
6. Lighting is installed.
7. The equipment of the toilet includes the installation of a seat and lid, shelves for accessories, a washbasin, etc.

Ventilation

The scheme for building a toilet in a country house with your own hands will be incomplete without ventilation. Ventilation of toilets for summer cottages is easily done using a plastic pipe with a diameter of 100 mm. It is removed from the drive (it is important to ensure the tightness of the joints) and is attached with outside structures (use metal clamps). The upper part of the pipe, equipped with a deflector to improve exhaust and protect against precipitation, rises 20-50 cm above the roof.

A toilet in a country house is an integral part of comfort and a full-fledged existence. When purchasing a completely clean plot of land, the first thing we install is this structure. This is not only natural, but even necessary. The construction of this building does not require any special projects. Anyone who is even a little familiar with carpentry tools can build a country toilet with their own hands. Let's look at this process in detail step by step. Now there are many modern alternatives to a stationary structure, we will also talk about some of them below.

At the dacha you can do without many convenient, important structures: a shed, a swimming pool, a cellar, a barbecue oven, but you can’t do without a toilet.

When starting work, you need to consider many factors. The most important thing is sanitary and hygienic standards. Your toilet should not create inconvenience to neighbors, so the location of the building, competent arrangement cesspool, ventilation should be worked out during design.

Country toilet, photo:

The equipment of the cesspool and the method of cleaning it are also important nuance, which directly depends on the location of groundwater. If the groundwater is located high, then you will have to look for alternative options, since you cannot make a hole. If the groundwater flow is low, the pit must be extremely airtight.

Country toilet - design options

The simplest and most common option is a wooden restroom. Even a beginner can build it; it will be inexpensive in terms of the cost of building materials. If desired, this design can be easily moved. To cover the frame, boards, clapboards, and chipboard sheets are used; if you have some imagination, you can sometimes get quite nice options. The simplest, cheapest option is a closet made of planks.

Design, photo:

A more substantial structure made of metal sheets is erected in two ways.

The first option - the same wooden frame is sheathed with sheets, in the second - the base of the frame is made of metal pipes, to which sheets of iron or slate are subsequently attached. The shaded part of the area is the best place for such a toilet, since in the summer the sun will heat the metal, causing you discomfort when visiting it. The inside of such a building can be sheathed with polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam.

A stationary brick building will require more construction time, as well as construction skills from the developer. Here you need to think through in detail how to clean the cesspool and the possibility of convenient access (for example, a sewer truck) to the building.

The country toilet of the “Luft-closet” type has no significant differences from stationary option, the whole feature is the design of the cesspool. At the same time, its walls and bottom must be sealed, and it itself must have an elongated shape.


This feature will improve the optimization of the waste disposal process, more convenient installation sewer hoses. A significant “minus” of “Lyuf-closet” type restrooms is the impossibility of using them during winter.

The country peat toilet is one of the alternative options for closets. In this case, the waste is immediately sprinkled with peat, and when the sewer tank is filled, it is removed and the processed contents are removed. More details about the operational functions of peat toilets will be written below.

Requirements for the construction of a country toilet

There are many nuances associated with the construction of a latrine; you need to take into account the direction of the winds, the possibility of unhindered access of a sewage truck to the building, and the distance from the cesspool to the point with water (no more than 25 meters). If there are other buildings nearby, the distance from them to the toilet should be at least 5 meters. Often closets are installed at a distance. But so that there is at least 1 meter to the border of the neighbor’s fence. Make sure that when you open the toilet door, your neighbors cannot see anything.

A country toilet with a cesspool is a solid structure that should be relatively spacious. The most common, convenient options buildings are a “birdhouse” and a “hut”. If you want to have room to spread out, the birdhouse type is suitable for you.


If we consider the building from the point of view of the impact of precipitation, then the “hut” type wins here.


The entire “attack” of rain and snow will fall on the roof, which at the “hut” reaches almost to ground level, while the walls will remain dry.

Both types of buildings allow you to equip a country toilet without a cesspool by placing a removable tank at the base of the building or not far from it, where waste will be collected. This can be a welded metal container, a special bucket, a suitable plastic tank or a wooden tank with peat, tyrsa, sand. Having a foundation is preferable for any type of building.

A cesspool is the main element of a country toilet; in order to determine its volume, you should know that with constant use, approximately 50-60 liters should be allocated per person (calculated for 3 months). As mentioned above, it must be sealed so that sewage does not come into contact with the aquifers of the soil. A well-equipped clay castle (20-30 cm thick) around the pit is an essential requirement when constructing a country toilet.

We build a toilet in a summer cottage with our own hands

If this is your first time building a toilet, please note that wooden structure easiest to build. Wood is a relatively inexpensive building material, it is easy to work with, it retains heat well, and is environmentally friendly. Let's look at this option in more detail. To arrange the frame, you will need wooden blocks; a section of 40×40 (or a little larger) is optimal. Choose the cladding material according to your taste: lining, standard board or even a block house will look quite appropriate. The roof can be covered with ondulin, slate, roofing felt.

Base, frame of the future toilet, photo:

To build a birdhouse type restroom, you can use a standard drawing, or you can use your imagination and develop your own individual version. Typical dimensions of a country toilet: rear wall - 2 meters, facade - 2.30 m, the width of the building must be at least 1 meter, the roof must be pitched, the presence of a cesspool, the base must be at least 1 × 1 m.

Construction materials you will need: solid sand-cement blocks, wooden beams, sand, boards, lining (cladding), roofing felt. You will also need crushed brick, profiled steel sheet, paint or varnish, door block, hinges, handle, latches, nails. To arrange the frame, it is preferable to choose an edged board made of hard wood (for example, larch, beech), stock up metal corners, self-tapping screws.

Country toilet, stages of work:

  1. First of all, we proceed to the cesspool, its approximate parameters should be at least 1: 1: 2 m, the dimensions of the cesspool determine the dimensions of the structure itself. We cover the bottom of the pit with crushed bricks or coarse crushed stone.
  2. Sand-cement blocks (they can be replaced with a concrete curb) will be the foundation. We install them in the corners of the pit - this is the foundation of the future frame.
  3. Approximately 4 layers of roofing felt on the blocks - this is the necessary waterproofing.
  4. The wooden frame consists of 4 load-bearing supports (vertical). The bars that are laid lengthwise should extend beyond the boundaries of the closet body by about 35-40 cm. The protruding part in front is the future canopy, the part in the back is the removal of precipitation from the wall of the building. The piping is done at the level of the place where the toilet will be installed. The height of the toilet seat should be comfortable - 40-45 cm from the floor.
  5. For greater strength of the frame, we install diagonal stiffeners on the rear wall, as well as on the side walls of the closet.
  6. The frame of the door block consists of two vertically mounted supports with a horizontal lintel at the top.
  7. We cover the frame with the selected material, lay a board (at least 4 cm thick) on the floor.
  8. We cut a hole in the floor of the appropriate size, the shape can be any.
  9. We install the door block with the door, and cut out a window if desired.
  10. We cover the roof of the restroom with the selected covering (roofing felt, ondulin, slate, etc.).
  11. We cover the structure with paint or varnish.

The installation of a country toilet with a cesspool implies a well-equipped ventilation system. It is important that unpleasant odors from the pit do not stagnate and come out freely. The outlet pipe can be made of any material, but its diameter must be at least 10 cm. Holes of the appropriate size should be cut in the toilet pedestal, like on the roof. The upper end of the pipe must rise above the roof of the building by at least 20 cm. The distances between the pipe and the cutout must be carefully sealed, and a ventilation deflector must be installed at the upper outlet of the pipe (it creates draft). The inside of the building can be lined with polystyrene foam or any other suitable facing material.

Branch pipes, photo:

Country toilet - cleaning the cesspool

There is no such person who would feel comfortable inhaling unpleasant odors. An outdoor (country) toilet, of course, cannot be a source of pleasant aromas, but advanced biotechnologies successfully cope with this problem. Today there are special chemicals that not only block unpleasant odors, but process waste into liquid, oxygen, and carbon dioxide.

Many summer residents do not have the correct information regarding these chemicals, believing that chemicals can harm the environment and plants. This is not so - high-quality biological products (such as Vodogray) are absolutely harmless to human health and the environment (confirmed by ISO-9002).

Separately, it is worth mentioning biogranules - a very convenient, necessary invention. Biogranules for pit toilets - reviews are extremely positive, since their microbiological composition includes enzymes and non-pathological bacteria. Biogranules are harmless to the environment, human and animal health, and were awarded the 2001 international medal “Environmentally Safe Products”.

This product destroys bad odors, decomposes feces, toilet paper, while waste products are quickly processed and become a cloudy, odorless liquid. This liquid can subsequently be safely poured, for example, under a tree or other convenient place. The use of biogranules solves the problem of cleaning and pumping out sewage: they not only process the contents of the cesspool, but also reduce its volume at the end of the process.

Before use, water should be poured into the cesspool, and then the drug should be added according to the attached instructions. Every 7 days you should add water and add one sachet of biogranules (25 g). If the cesspool contains a lot of liquid, then you can fill in several bags at once. In the second case, the drug is pre-mixed with water and then poured into the pit. It is worth considering that if you previously poured bleach into it, then ordinary biogranules will not work - such an environment will destroy them. For these cases, there is a special type of drug - “Septic-biogranules”.

Two or three days after applying the product, a kind of film forms on top of the waste, which seems to “preserve” the unpleasant odor inside. Next comes the decomposition process, which can slow down if your cesspool is simply dug, that is, not lined with bricks or protected in any way. However, there will be a positive result in any case. If you want to have an odorless country toilet, then choose biogranules - an environmentally friendly product.

Toilet for a country toilet - which one to choose

The toilet is comfort and convenience. Often in country restrooms you can see ordinary ceramic toilet seats, the same as those installed in city apartments. This is the wrong choice, since most toilet models have a curved flush direction. In this case, the waste is washed away big amount water, so this configuration is acceptable. A toilet for a country toilet, on the contrary, must have a direct “exit” so that the contents are freely sent into the cesspool. In addition, ceramic toilets are very heavy, which is also not very convenient for a country closet.

An excellent alternative for dacha option there will be a special plastic toilet. It is light in weight, performs all the necessary functions, it does not have a curved “exit”, it is designed specifically for such outdoor buildings. Country toilet, made of durable plastic, is relatively inexpensive. The models are quite varied.

If we strive for comfort, then we need to take into account all the nuances, all the little things. Such a nice little thing, especially necessary in winter, will be a warm toilet seat. Visiting an outdoor toilet in winter is not very comfortable and is not good for health either. The seat is exactly the part that is in direct contact with our body. The plastic seat holds the cold well, this distinguishes it from a thermal seat made of foamed polypropylene.

The warm seat for a country toilet fits any outdoor closet or toilet. The product is made of hygienic material that retains heat even in severe frost. This invention comes from Finland, and Finns, as you know, know how to deal with the cold. It is very easy to install, does not absorb moisture, is easy to maintain, and is weather resistant. The product has a modern external design and a lid made of the same material. The thermal seat for country toilets is made of an analogue of foam plastic, therefore it is absolutely harmless to human health and the environment.

Peat toilet - an alternative to the usual

Anyone can install such an innovation in their dacha, since such latrines do not imply the presence of a cesspool. This option is excellent when it is not possible to install a permanent structure (high groundwater level). These buildings are characterized by a simplified design - you won’t need much time or effort to install everything. We are talking about peat toilets - an innovation that appeared relatively recently, but has already proven itself positively among summer residents.

Peat toilet, photo:

Models of peat closets have an aesthetically attractive design, but if desired, you can “simplify” this device. A removable container is installed under a regular country toilet with a toilet without a cesspool, and a bucket with peat filler is placed next to the toilet seat. He did his job, reached out to the bucket of peat, scooped up the peat mixture with a special scoop, poured it inside the toilet - that’s the whole process.

The operating principle of such a device is to convert sewage into compost (biological decomposition) due to the action of active ingredients. In peat dry closets, this role is played by peat or a peat mixture. Near the toilet there is a box with peat. After the sewage gets inside the corresponding tank, it is sprinkled with this filler on top.

Branded peat toilets are equipped with a special dispenser installed near the upper tank for peat mixture. This is very convenient device: you pull the handle, a kind of “flushing” occurs - a dose of peat is directed downwards, covering the waste. From this moment, feces begin to break down and absorb liquid, thereby blocking the unpleasant odor. When the container is full, it can be easily emptied, since by this time all waste will have already been processed and become fertilizer.

These devices require simple maintenance: impurities are removed from storage tank, the container itself is washed, a new portion of peat substrate is added, and the toilet is ready for use again. You can buy a ready-made set of such a closet, or you can install a wooden structure (as described above) or simply install a ready-made plastic country toilet (you can purchase used dry closet cabins at a low price). All you have to do is put a toilet with a removable tank inside the “box” to collect sewage, and clean it periodically.

When the storage tank is one third full, it is recommended to empty it. It is best to store processed waste inside the composter; after some time you use it as fertilizer for your garden.

Peat toilet for a summer house - which one is better?

When purchasing a product, pay attention to the following characteristics:

  1. Dimensions of the product - you should be comfortable using it (the height of the toilet seat is important), the entire device should fit proportionally into the booth.
  2. The volume of the storage container should not be too large or too small. Consider the number of people and the frequency of using the restroom.
  3. If the toilet will be used by two people, then the tank, which is too large, will have to be emptied half-empty (the waste should not remain inside the container for a long time).
  4. Consider the load on the toilet seat, its strength, the thickness of the material should depend on the weight of the heaviest user.

As for the manufacturers of peat toilets, the most positive reviews products were marked Russian companies“Compact-ECO”, “Piteco”, Finnish country peat toilets “Ekomatic L&T”, “Biolan Komplet”, Swedish composting bioclosets “Mulltoa”. Prices vary depending on the quality and the manufacturer. You shouldn’t skimp on something as necessary as a toilet - good equipment will serve your family for decades, and this is a good reason.

Whatever type of closet you choose, the main thing is that you feel comfortable using it so that your neighbors don’t complain. How to build a country toilet with your own hands step by step, how to equip a “dry” peat closet, what the sanitary requirements for the construction of this building should be - you now know, which means you can tell other summer residents about it.

Photos of toilets in the country: