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» How to insert a window block in a wooden house. Tips for installing plastic windows in a wooden house. Advantages of PVC plastic windows

How to insert a window block in a wooden house. Tips for installing plastic windows in a wooden house. Advantages of PVC plastic windows

Greetings, dear readers!

I decided to replace the old windows in a wooden house myself. This is not at all easy, so before that I looked at a bunch of sites and forums, talked with friends who were doing the installation. And I outlined for myself the basic rules for installation.

First you need to take measurements of the windows in order to know the exact dimensions and order the window correctly.

Next, you need to dismantle the old windows. Then he prepares the installation site for the window; to do this, you need to remove the dust and debris that accumulated during dismantling. Next, we install the window sill and prepare the plastic window for installation. Then we install the window itself.

At first it seems very simple, but there are small nuances, taking into account which you can easily do this. I want to tell you more about the installation later in this article.

Installing plastic windows with your own hands in a wooden house. Installation technology. Instructions, photos

Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows in a prepared frame wooden house, like other construction and installation work, is carried out using a building level and plumb line.

It is very important that plastic windows in the house they were strictly level, otherwise an open window, for example, would close itself or, conversely, open under its own weight. Thus, the technology for installing plastic windows in the frame of a wooden house includes setting it level and plumb before fixing the window.

Here's ours own experience developed instructions for installing plastic windows in a log house.

First, I would like to note one point that you will need to remember when purchasing plastic windows: When you buy windows, it would be good to immediately buy mounting fasteners for them, ideally 6 pieces per window.

These are iron plates (see photo) which, with the help of little effort, are fixed in special technical slides on the sides of the window frame. Thus, the frame is attached to the frame using self-tapping screws through these mounting fasteners.

During installation, many installers of plastic windows fasten the window by drilling through the frame, but this is a violation of technology, and the tightness of special air chambers in the profile of the plastic window is thus broken, so this is not our method.

Plastic windows in a wooden house are generally a very capricious thing, but if followed the right technology installation, then such windows in your home will last a long time, without upsetting their owners with all sorts of distortions and other problems.

To ensure that installing windows yourself does not turn into torture, we advise you to remove the window sashes from the window frame. To remove them, you need to pull the pins out of the loops. Without window sashes, the frame weighs little, and it will be much more convenient to tilt it, which will greatly facilitate the installation of windows.

The instructions for installing plastic windows in a prepared frame of a wooden house are as follows:

Align the window. We place the window on the lower part of the opening on wood chips about 2 cm thick and adjust it horizontally. To set the horizontal level the best tool in our opinion is the water level.

You can’t fool the water; it always levels out with the horizon.

Thus, installing the window exactly at the horizon level, placing chips of the required thickness under the frame for this purpose, will leave approximately a two-centimeter gap at the bottom for foaming polyurethane foam, we move on to setting the vertical level so that the window sashes do not live their own lives.

I don’t think it’s worth explaining in detail how the vertical level is set when installing a plastic, or any other window, everything is clearly visible in the photograph.

After we have placed the window level, we attach it to the frame with self-tapping screws through the above-mentioned mounting fasteners.

There is one technological point here - do not hit the ridge of the log on which the pigtail sits with a self-tapping screw.

It is better to screw in the self-tapping screw slightly obliquely than to deprive the frame structure of its independence from the frame in terms of the free movement of the carriages along the ridges of the logs.

The next step in our instructions for installing plastic windows in a wooden house will be attaching the window sashes. It is necessary to hang the sashes on the window before foaming, but if you foam the frame without sashes, the mounting foam may slightly bend the frame, and the sashes will not close/open well.

Thus, if the technology is followed correctly and the installation of the frame and the plastic window is carried out smoothly, your window should be positioned in such a way that there will be approximately 2 cm of space for the mounting foam on all sides from the frame to the frame.

And above the upper part of the frame there will be a gap of 5-10 cm to the log for shrinkage of the log house, so that when it is completely dry, the upper logs do not put pressure on the windows.

Foaming the window. Control check - On a window that is already fixed, but not yet foamed, with the sashes inserted, open the window and look.

If the half-open sash of a plastic window does not try to open further or, on the contrary, close, then our window is installed correctly and you can foam the frame with polyurethane foam.

This is our DIY technology for installing plastic windows. We hope you find it useful in building your wooden house! Happy construction!

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How to install plastic windows in a wooden house with your own hands

In our wooden house, we decided to replace the old wooden windows to modern plastic ones. This article discusses in detail the installation of double-glazed windows with your own hands in a wooden house. The article is based on personal experience. Why is it profitable to install windows yourself:

When installing double-glazed windows in a wooden house by a supplier or manufacturer, the cost of the window along with installation will cost 40-50% more than its original cost.

As a rule, about 95% of companies that install windows do not guarantee the quality of installation in a wooden house. Therefore, when you install plastic windows in a wooden house yourself, you do not lose the warranty period, but only save for your own benefit.

Window installation is shown in the example self-installation double-glazed windows, without the help of outsiders, which takes an average of two and a half hours (for one window). The following describes step by step the process of inserting a plastic window into the window opening of a wooden house.

Removing old windows

Self-installation of double-glazed windows in a wooden house is carried out on a solid foundation (frame). Since in our example, the window boxes were installed quite recently (about 5 years ago) and were without damage (cracks, chips, rotten formations and wormholes), we decided to use them instead of a frame for installing new windows.

Old window frames, which are in good condition and have sufficient strength, can be reused, for example, to install a greenhouse.

Therefore, in order not to damage the wood of the frame, they must be dismantled carefully; it also does not hurt to remove the glass from them before doing this. In our case, we did not remove the glass from the frame, since the durable frames did not warp when removing them and were dismantled quite easily.

Preparing a site for installing double-glazed windows

With a dry and clean rag (or soft brush) you need to wipe the window frame and remove the waste and debris that has accumulated after dismantling.

The PVC window sill is installed first, since it is the base of the double-glazed window when it is installed. In this regard, the window sill should be installed as level as possible (ideally horizontal). We check the exact horizontal installation of the window sill with a level, both longitudinally and transversely.

To ensure that the window sill stands firmly, we make cuts up to 8 mm deep on the sides of the window frame. To adjust the evenness of the window sill, we use special plates made of plastic or fiberboard, or thin wooden planks treated in advance with an antiseptic. After the final installation of the window sill, we measure the evenness of the window sill with a building level.

We fasten the window sill with self-tapping screws to the bottom of the window frame, while making a 2 cm indent from the outer end of the window sill. When tightening the screws, we place washers under their heads in order to protect the surface of the window sill from damage, which is possible if it is broken through by the self-tapping head (at PVC window sills have cavities). After the window is completely installed, the places where the window sill is attached will not be visible, since they will be hidden from view.

Preparing a plastic window for installation

At the very beginning, even before installing the window, you need to install the handle. All protective film There is no need to remove the window surface yet, as it protects the window from possible mechanical damage.

Note!

The protective film is removed only in the place where the handles need to be installed. The handle handles must be in a horizontal position when installed.

This position means that the window opens on its side, and if the handle is turned down, the window will be locked in the closed state, but if the handle handle is turned up, the window will open in the crank mode.

We fix the handle to the window with two bolts and move the handle handle down. On the side posts of the window (at the ends) we make markings for making holes on which the window will be fixed to the block.

Next, using an electric drill, we drill two through holes (lower and upper) along this marking in the right pillar of the double-glazed window and in the lower pillar (4 holes in total). Distance between bottom and top parts The glass unit to the hole should be from 25 to 35 cm. The diameter of the drill for this work should be 6 mm, while the diameter of the screw is 5 mm.

To ensure that the head of the screw rests firmly on the window frame, we use side posts with inside We drill holes for fastening with a drill with a large diameter - 10 mm, up to the metal frame. The hole should be such that the head of the screw fits freely into the cavity of the window post.

Window installation

We install the assembled window into the window opening. We control the center using measurements taken with a tape measure starting from the edge of the window and ending with the surface of the window frame on both sides; the distance should be the same (about 1 cm).

We install the window on the surface earlier installed window sill. Since we have already checked the window sill for levelness using a building level, there is no need to check the window itself for horizontalness.

To install a window parallel to the wall of the house, install it between the wall and the siding for support building level. If the house was sheathed differently finishing material for example, clapboard that fits tightly to the wall and does not allow you to place a level, then you need to use a plumb line for control.

We install a spacer bar 1 cm wide between the window frame and the window. It is necessary that this block fits tightly enough between the window frame and the window. This block is needed as a stop at the moment when the window is attached to window opening using self-tapping screws.

If this is not done, then the window may move to the side when it is fastened (it will simply be pulled away) and at the same time the mechanism for opening and closing the window will not function well, or the window sash will not open at all.

When the installation of the stop bars is completed and the window is aligned with a level or slope parallel to the wall of the house, then we fix the double-glazed window with self-tapping screws. We fix the window to the window frame from the bottom and top of its side posts, so that the self-tapping screw is in the free space between the frame and the window.

Such fastening is not only reliable, but also provides a floating effect. If there are seasonal shifts in the structure of the house, warping the window openings, then windows that are not rigidly attached to the frame are almost not subject to warping, due to the fact that the self-tapping screw can arbitrarily move in the direction of the skew of the window frame.

Installation of double-glazed windows in a wooden house

First, install adjusting plates between the drain holes. This is necessary so that the glass unit does not cover the openings through which condensation is drained from the window.

Carefully install the double-glazed window into the window opening. We make sure that it does not fit tightly between the window posts, since if seasonal changes occur and, accordingly, distortions of the window frame, the glass may burst.

Note!

If your glass unit fits tightly, and there is no gap between the window mullions and the glass unit (at least 5 mm), then you should contact the company that made the windows for you for an explanation, so that the company’s employees can eliminate this disadvantage. It is necessary to check the gaps between the frame and the glass unit before removing the old window.

We install the double-glazed window evenly and fix it with plastic beads, which have profile spikes that are inserted into the grooves of the window frame with with the help of the lung tapping on the glazing beads, during which the tenon goes into the groove and a click is heard. A click means the staple is securely fastened.

After the window is installed, we fill the void between the window frame and the window with installation foam, both from the inside and from the outside. outside Houses. Excess hardened polyurethane foam is cut off with a sharp knife.

After this, you can begin finishing with platbands, fittings and drainage.

source: http://stroykaportal.ru/

How to properly install plastic windows in a wooden house

The relevance of the question: “How to install plastic windows in a wooden house” (and not only plastic ones) lies in the fact that wooden houses have great instability. Moreover, unlike a stone or reinforced concrete house, this instability manifests itself throughout the entire service life of a wooden house.

If these factors are not taken into account when installing plastic windows or doors in a wooden house, very unpleasant (to put it mildly) problems may arise!

What is special about a wooden house? And the fact is that wood tends to “shrink,” especially in the first years after construction. Those who claim that the log house shrinks within a year after its installation are mistaken.

Yes, the most noticeable shrinkage occurs in the first year, but the process continues for at least 5 years, and in some climatic zones – for a lifetime! As the logs or beams dry, the height of the wall can decrease to 1.5 cm per meter of masonry. This means that the height of the wall can “shrink” up to 6 cm.

And imagine now what will happen to the plastic window if, as always, you left a gap of 2 - 2.5 cm for the foam?! So, is installing plastic windows in a wooden house generally unrealistic? Quite the opposite!

But only if a special structure, called a casing or casing, is installed in the opening.

The purpose of this design is to give windows (and not only plastic ones) complete independence from load-bearing walls at home, eliminate even the slightest load on the window during shrinkage or curvature of the walls:

  1. The casing prevents the logs from moving from the vertical in the window opening.
  2. Does not interfere with vertical shrinkage.
  3. Takes on all the load.
  4. Strengthens the wall of the house in the area of ​​the opening.

Let's take a closer look at this system. The simplest casing option is when a vertical groove of 50x50 mm is cut at the ends of the opening logs and a beam of the same size is inserted into it.

But this method of framing is ONLY suitable for wooden windows. Therefore, we will not dwell on it. A more reliable casing option is when a ridge is made at the ends of the logs, and a window carriage with a groove is put on it.

Now the logs, when shrinking (due to the ridge), will slide inside the groove without deviating from the vertical and without pressing down on the window.

It happens that a groove is made in logs, but the tenon is on the gun carriage, the main meaning, I think, is clear.

Window carriages are vertical beams 150x100 mm, at the ends of which 50x50 cutouts are made for inserting horizontal lintels - boards 150x50 mm with tenons at the ends.

Casing in assembled form the window opening is made smaller by 7 - 8 cm in height. This gap is left to allow for wall shrinkage. When assembling the frame in the opening, we cover the ridges with rolled tow and stuff the carriages onto it. This will save us from squeaks during shrinkage and insulate the opening.

Note!

Next, the procedure is as follows: we lay the lower jumper, stuff carriages onto the comb with tow, insert the upper jumper into the upper gap and lower it into the grooves. We fasten the entire structure with self-tapping screws, trying not to grab the ridge, otherwise the whole point of installing the casing will be lost. We also stuff tow into the gap between the sapling and the logs.

But now you can install plastic windows into a wooden house without fear of the consequences. We carry out installation in compliance with all technologies: steam - noise - moisture protection. The gap between the casing and the frame is filled with thin boards wrapped in tow.

As the house shrinks, they have to be knocked out and replaced with others. To do this, the upper casing (attached only to the casing) is carefully removed and, after replacing the filling, put back in place.

At seminars I was often asked the question: why does a window installer need to know the technology of building a wooden house? And then, so that you can determine whether it is possible to install a window in this opening.

And, if necessary, equip it with a classic casing. Of course for a fee. In my practice there have been such cases.

Now like this important point. You install a plastic window in a wooden house where there are wooden windows. The platbands were removed for accurate measurements, but there was no casing. That is, the old window box acts as a window frame.

This is where the owner has to make a choice (but with your help): redo window hole under casing or very significantly reduce the size of the future window. After all, on each side you need to add the thickness of the casing + window frame + gap for foam. And what will remain there?!

And in conclusion, I want to warn you:

Helpful advice!

Under no circumstances agree to install windows without casing in the opening. Even if the owner proves that the house is 300 years old and “all the shrinkage has already settled.” The tree “breathes” all its life with all the consequences, as they say.

Well, as a last resort, you can give in to the client, under his responsibility. But do not forget to put a dash in the “Guarantee” column in the contract!!!

Still, installing plastic windows in a wooden house requires very serious attention.

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How to fix a window: overview of fastening hardware and photo report on the installation completed

Hello. In this article I will talk about how to fix plastic windows in a residential building with your own hands using available tools. I hope that this topic will be of interest to you, since installation skills can save money.

Despite the fact that for many manufacturers the price of windows includes the cost of installation, there are many companies where they will sell you double-glazed windows cheaper due to self-installation. The money savings are obvious!

Basic information about window installation

The installation of glazing in the opening differs depending on the type of profile used and depending on the type of walls. For example, installation in a stone, concrete or brick wall is carried out directly without any structures compensating for mechanical loads on the window.

At the same time, installation in a wooden house is carried out with the obligatory installation of a casing, which compensates for the loads due to shrinkage processes.

For installation plastic double glazed windows There are two main requirements:

  • Strength and reliability of the installed glazing;
  • Correct location in level relative to the vertical and horizontal planes;
  • Properly sealed gaps around the perimeter of the opening to ensure optimal energy efficiency of the glazing.

Fastening elements for installing double-glazed windows in PVC profiles

Commonly used fasteners for plastic windows: a - frame dowel with a metal seal; b - frame dowel c plastic seal; c – universal plastic dowel; g – screw (self-tapping screw); d - anchor plate

Before moving on to the description of the installation, I suggest you find out what fasteners for PVC windows can be purchased at construction stores. There are many fastenings and such a variety is not accidental, since each type is intended for one or another type of wall.

Window fasteners according to the type of walls are divided into the following categories:

  • for concrete walls;
  • for installation of brick walls;
  • for installation in aerated concrete walls;
  • for fastening to wood.

By the way, using the listed fasteners, a protective grill can be installed.

Fasteners for installation in concrete openings

Plastic double-glazed windows are installed in concrete openings using anchors or, as they are also called, frame dowels.

To securely fix a heavy window in a concrete opening, it is customary to use anchors with a diameter of 8 or 10 mm and a length of 72 to 202 mm. The length and diameter of the hardware are selected taking into account the density of the wall - the more porous the concrete, the longer and thicker the anchor.

No matter how long or thick the anchors are, the strength of the finished result will depend on how carefully the hole is drilled. If the walls of a hole are broken as a result of unprofessional drilling, even the most reliable fastening hardware will not provide the required installation strength.

Installation using anchors is carried out in two ways:

  1. A hole is drilled in the profile and the anchor enters the concrete directly through the profile;
  2. An anchor plate is attached to the profile and through the plate the window structure is fastened to the opening.

The first method is relevant if the technological gap between the profile and the gap is small. If the distance between the profile and the opening is more than 1 cm, you can use an anchor plate, since the fasteners can be covered when finishing, if plastic slopes are used.

Anchor plates are metal strips of simple or complex configuration. Simple plates are ordinary strips with perforations. Along with such devices, there are “crabs” - plates that cut into the profile, thereby simplifying the finishing of slopes.

Fasteners for installation in brick walls

Fastening plastic windows in brick opening performed approximately the same as in . But there is one problem: if for installation in concrete, holes for the anchor in the profile can be drilled in advance, then in the case of brick walls the holes are drilled locally, since you need to get into the center of the brick, and not into the masonry seam.

For installation in brick, the same frame dowel is used as for concrete walls, but with a length of at least 10 cm. A length of 10 cm is the minimum penetration into the brick at which you can be sure that the fastening will not become loose or weaken when operation.

If you are sure that the brick is not hollow, and today this is used extremely rarely, you can use dowels 6-8 cm long.

Fasteners for installation in wooden openings

The best option for installing windows in a wooden opening without casing is self-tapping screws in combination with anchor plates. This type of fastening is equally good for log, timber and frame buildings.

If a casing box is installed in the opening, installation can be done with screws directly through the profile. To install glazing in a wooden opening, I recommend using self-tapping screws at least 10 cm long with a diameter of 8 mm. We screw in the screws in increments of 30 cm.

Fasteners for installation in aerated concrete openings

Aerated concrete blocks are characterized by low density, and therefore for installation we select special dowels and install them with a small pitch between the screws.

Installation of glazing in aerated concrete walls requires detailed consideration, since everything large quantity houses are built using such blocks. That is why, to familiarize yourself with the installation technology, I offer a short photo report of the work done. installation work Oh.

Installation of a plastic window in walls made of aerated concrete blocks

To perform installation work you will need:

  • Perforated anchor plates (160×40 mm and 2 mm thick);
  • Plastic dowels (50×10 mm) for fastening into aerated concrete;
  • Universal metal self-tapping screws (60×6 mm);
  • Electric drill and drills in accordance with the diameter of the dowel;
  • Screwdriver with a set of bits;
  • Water level;
  • Tape measure and pencil.

The installation instructions are as follows:

  • If the perforation in the anchor plates does not correspond to the diameter of the dowels, we drill out the holes; if the diameter initially matches, we skip this stage and move on to the next one;

  • Along the perimeter of the profile, we screw the anchor plates onto self-tapping screws so that the holes drilled for the dowels are located on the outside;

In order for the frame to be securely fastened in the opening, we mount the anchor plates on 2 self-tapping screws, which will prevent them from turning. In addition, the installation step should not exceed 30-40 cm.

  • We install the frame in the opening on plastic inserts and position it level in the horizontal and vertical plane;

  • After the structure is aligned in the opening, we drill holes in aerated concrete blocks in accordance with the perforation in the anchor plates;

To drill aerated concrete blocks, it is not necessary to use a drill with pobedit surfacing. Since aerated concrete is soft, it is quite possible to use the drill that was previously used to drill out the anchor plates. By the way, when drilling, we try not to jerk the drill from side to side, since breaking a hole in aerated concrete is as easy as shelling pears, and as a result, the dowel will not stay in the wall.

  • We screw dowels into the drilled holes;

  • We screw self-tapping screws into the screwed dowels;

After completing the installation work, we do not remove the liners from under the window, as they will provide additional stability to the structure.

  • Using a spray bottle, generously moisten the technological gap between the opening and the profile;
  • We fill the technological gap around the entire perimeter with polyurethane foam, so that the excess applied foam comes out outside and the gap was completely filled;
  • After the foam has dried, the excess is trimmed with a mounting knife on both sides of the profile.

By the way, how can you attach a thermometer to a window without needlessly making holes in the profile?

It turns out that there is nothing complicated, just buy a special thermometer with Velcro on the glass. Thermometers with ears and mounting holes should be mounted not on plastic, but on wooden frames. But, if you have a thermometer with holes for screws, fasten this device to the profile with short screws - this will not harm the profile.

In conclusion, I note that if you don’t know how to secure the handle to the profile, you can also use small self-tapping screws that will go through the PVC and be held in the metal.

Conclusion

Now you know how to install a PVC window block into an opening of walls of different composition. I hope that the instructions provided were helpful to you. If you have any questions, as usual, ask them in the comments to the text. Also, don't forget to watch the video in this article.

Reading time ≈ 6 minutes

Every builder knows how to install wooden windows in a wooden house, but ordinary residents of private houses cannot do this with their own hands. The reason is a lack of knowledge, although ordering such a procedure from experts “will cost a pretty penny.” Read the information below to make your home as comfortable and warm as possible.

Grandparents know very well what a wooden frame is. After all, previously there were such windows on every corner. The process of installing a wooden window requires special skills and abilities from the master in order to achieve correct result. The quality of installation, compliance with tightness, service life, and even appearance generally. And to avoid drafts and unnecessary distortions, let's look at it step by step correct instructions for installation of wooden windows. When installing a wooden window, you cannot do without skill and certain skills, but then you can make an excellent glazed window.

Features of installation and dismantling of old wooden windows

Before installing wooden windows in a wooden house, you should listen to the recommendations experienced craftsmen to effectively carry out the operation yourself. Especially if you have never encountered this kind of work before. It is best to transfer such a process into the hands of a master who knows all the secrets of the installation first-hand. After all, the lack of necessary skills can lead to the frame being damaged. And their cost is quite high, so spending additional money on repairs is expensive. In addition, repair is not always possible. However, it is often necessary to install products, for example, in.

Woodworking enthusiasts can delve into the installation features in more detail and try their hand at this craft. If you follow the recommendations, you will not only be able to install a wooden window with high quality, but also save a lot.

Advice: if you order a new wooden window, you should leave the installation in the hands of the manufacturer. The fact is that in this way all guarantees for this design will be preserved. And if you install it yourself, then all your mistakes will remain on your conscience.

In any case, before installing new window frames, it is worth removing the old structures. This paragraph does not apply to houses that are under construction. By following the correct sequence of actions, you will make your task much easier:

  1. Before work you need to prepare the room. If possible, it is better to move small interior details, clothes and furniture to another room. This way, your things will be safe and sound.
  2. Furniture that remained in the room, and flooring worth protecting. To do this, just cover them with film.
  3. Floor coverings also need to be removed. This includes a rug, carpet, runner, etc.

After such preparations, you can begin to dismantle the old window itself. To do this, carefully, but applying force, you need to disassemble wooden frame. In this case, the slopes are knocked out along with the plaster. This operation will help you determine the presence of a lintel. Without this element, the structure is dangerous. In older buildings, such “hackwork” is common. If you, too, are among this number of “lucky” ones, then further actions are impossible without resolving this issue with professional builders, and you don’t need to go there yourself. But experience will help you further develop in the direction, and then completely.

Then beat off the slopes in all places. Carefully inspect whether there are embedded beams in each wall on which the window frame is fixed. It is worth immediately determining their condition.

Embedded beams in the wall

Tip: in order to find out whether these beams need to be replaced or not, use a regular awl. It's worth sticking it into the block. If it fits tightly and is difficult to pull out, then everything is in order. Their presence is not necessary to install a new window.

The importance of correct measurements

Replacing any window requires correct measurement parameters. This will determine how perfectly the window fits into the window opening. If you have a wooden house, then cleaning should occur to the level of the casing. Now you can start taking measurements. It is important to clearly and in the right places make a measurement. Even a small error can ruin everything.

Even if you have saved previous measurements, it is not a fact that they will fit now. After all, over time, any building can be influenced external factors. It is important to create a wooden window slightly smaller than the opening itself. This way you can correctly align the frame in relation to the horizon using correction. To do this, subtract 15–25 mm from the height, and as much as 4–6 cm from the width.

All parameters are taken from ideal lines (horizontal and vertical). To create them, use a building level. Modern devices, for example, a tape measure with a laser, will greatly simplify all measurements. After all, it will give a real indicator for each parameter. It is also important to know how if they are located on the upper floors.

Step-by-step installation of a wooden window

Before installing a wooden frame, you need to prepare necessary tools. To work you will need:

  • drill and hammer drill;
  • hammer pliers;
  • screwdrivers;
  • perhaps a saw and a plane with an axe.

It would not be superfluous to purchase silicone sealant, polyurethane foam, roofing felt (polyurethane). These materials are useful for sealing the opening.

If a wooden window is installed in a wooden house, then the technology involves the use of support blocks.

Initially, installing wooden windows in a wooden house with your own hands begins with protecting the window from moisture that a wooden wall can provide. After all, such moisture provokes the occurrence of mold and various fungal growths. And all this very quickly spoils the wood. Therefore, it is necessary to glue parts of the roofing material into the opening. It adheres well to silicone. Here's what you should do:

  1. Blocks (length 12 - 15 cm) made of wood. One end should already be under the frame. The widest point should correspond to the distance between the frame and the wall. You need at least 4 pieces.
  2. 2 pieces are installed at the bottom of the opening. There should be about 80 cm between them (depending on the size of the wooden window).
  3. Remove the sashes from your frame and place it in the opening itself on supports. Save required slope– minimum 10 cm.

  1. The remaining pads are set according to this scheme, as in the photo. They should not fit tightly, so if necessary, tighten them up a little with a plane. Always adhere to the vertical (plumb check) and horizontal (level check) so that there are no even small distortions.
  2. When everything is aligned perfectly, you can pull out the block one at a time, fill the area with sealant and insert it back.
  3. The hardest part is behind us. Now it's up to the polyurethane foam. With its help, all cracks around the perimeter are sealed. You need to work with it carefully, and after drying, simply cut off the excess parts with a knife.

You can learn more about window installation from the video. Now you know perfectly well how to install wooden windows in a wooden house, and you can do it yourself, and not spend extra money on the work of builders. The main thing is attention and patience.

You can do a lot with your own hands. For example, install window systems. This work will save a significant amount of money. If the work is carried out according to all the rules, then the windows will serve for a long time, delighting the owners with their functionality. Installing windows in wooden houses has a number of features that must be taken into account in advance.

Instructions for installing a window in a wooden house - how to replace an old window with a new one, standard errors during fastening and installation.



Design Features


The most common slopes today are those made of plasterboard. To do this, the opening is plastered and then painted in the desired shade. This type of finishing is easy to implement and affordable, but it can only be installed inside the building. However, durability will be low; they will last no more than three years.

It is more profitable to make slopes from polyvinyl chloride; they are installed inside and outside the building. These panels are practical and can serve for a long time. Plastic slopes have a width of 25 cm, when the depth of the opening is greater, they have to be joined, which can reduce the aesthetics of the appearance.

Wooden slopes are in great demand, they have the following advantages:

  • high aesthetics;
  • environmental Safety;
  • strong fixation;
  • high quality;
  • the ability to create any shapes and parameters;
  • application of paintwork.

Slopes made of wood perform the following functions:

  • insulation of joints and cracks from the penetration of cold air and noise;
  • protection against moisture penetration from the outside, which prevents the occurrence of mold and mildew;
  • decorating space, the ability to create a unified style;
  • masking flaws that arose during the installation process.

Selection of wooden slopes



It is recommended to make wooden slopes from the same species from which the frame is made. This will give unity to the drawing and color range. Slopes can differ in length (up to 2.8 m) and width (about a meter), thickness can be 12 and 15 cm. This factor should also be taken into account.

Some panels are made from plywood; the material is quite resistant to moisture, it is durable and wear-resistant. The base here is covered with wood veneer, and a primer mixture is applied to the surface. This coating makes it easier to apply paint and varnish.

It is desirable that the external slopes be made of larch. This type of wood is durable, elastic, and resistant to mechanical or atmospheric damage. Such products will not have a very high price.

Preparatory stage

Before finishing the slopes, several preparatory measures should be carried out:

  • check the correct installation of the unit;
  • check the probability of vertical deviations with a plumb line;
  • Check the horizontal position with a level;
  • measure the diagonals to determine the presence of distortions and deformations;
  • inspect the profiles to detect damage, chips, scratches;
  • examine the glass unit, check if there are any cracks or air bubbles on it.

Installation of wooden slopes


Installation work is carried out 12 hours after installation; this period is necessary for the foam to dry and take its final shape. This process should not be delayed too long; the foam may begin to collapse under the influence of external factors.

Methods for installing slopes vary.

Using foam, the planks are attached as follows:

  • panels are measured and cut to size;
  • corners are made as even as possible;
  • fasten the panels with self-tapping screws at the corner joints;
  • the remaining space is filled with foam (taking into account that after drying its volume will become 3 times higher).

The second installation method goes like this:

  • trim panels to fit existing parameters;
  • attach insulation ( mineral wool, pre-cut into strips of the required size);
  • cover with insulation with polyethylene film, secure with double-sided tape;
  • fix the panels with self-tapping screws;
  • install the frame into the grooves of the window block.

How to make window slopes in a wooden house


Exterior finishing produced using materials that are resistant to moisture. Any type of material can be used inside the house.

You can design slopes inside the house using:

  • linings;
  • wood panels;
  • plastic.

Work order:

  • install the sheathing;
  • prepare the beams, taking into account the parameters of the slopes and the chosen installation method;
  • attach the sheathing with self-tapping screws;
  • insulate the opening with heat-insulating material (foam);
  • attach the car with self-tapping screws;
  • vertical installation involves fixing the slopes from the frame, horizontal - working from the bottom;
  • First fix the slopes in the opening, then with each other;
  • install corners (external, internal) to mask defects and increase the tightness of the structure.

How to make wooden slopes on plastic windows


Slopes in a wooden house with PVC windows are often made of wood.

The process of designing openings goes like this:

  • guides are placed around the perimeter;
  • parts are attached to the walls using self-tapping screws (the holes are prepared in advance);
  • monitor verticality by level;
  • adjust slopes according to parameters;
  • insert the strips into the starting guides;
  • seal the cracks with a hermetic compound;
  • sealed with tape for painting work compaction zone;
  • decorative corners are attached at the joints;
  • remove excess foam.