All plants influence each other in one way or another. And this influence can be positive and negative. This phenomenon is studied by the science of allelopathy. A huge contribution to the field of knowledge about the mutual influence of plants was made by Austrian winegrower Lenz Moser (1887-1978).
He is one of the first professional winegrowers to prove the benefits high standards in the formation of grapes, and also conducted a series of experiments on the influence of 174 species weeds and cultivated plants on the growth and fruiting of grapes.
The result of his many years of observation and work was the book "Viticulture in a new way", in which he talks in great detail about caring for grapes and correct selection neighbors for him.
We recommend reading this book, especially since it is freely available in Russian. And in this article we will focus on which plants inhibit the growth of grapes, and which, on the contrary, stimulate vigorous development.
Moser noticed that if there is a grape growing under chickweed, soybean and smoker, then it develops well, the shoots are long and strong, and winter well.
But if they are nearby yarrow, horseradish, wormwood, tansy– the grape bush weakens and loses frost resistance.
Under the same conditions and care, the same picture is observed when growing crops even a few meters from the trunk in the row spacing. Where did you grow up? soybeans, the shoots were strong and overwintered well.
Neighborhood with potatoes did not lead to anything good: the grape shoots grew only half a meter, and in winter a quarter of the bushes froze completely!
For the purity of the experiment Moser left several bushes without grass, in clean soil. The result was surprising: the control bushes turned out to be far from the strongest and most developed.
Some plant neighbors are capable of significantly enhance grape growth.
Contrary to assumption, some weeds with a powerful root system do not inhibit grapes at all, but on the contrary, stimulate their vigorous growth. The impact of neighbors, other things being equal, on grapes can exceed 30%.
Many gardeners are confident that growing grapes is a rather difficult task, accessible to the “chosen few”. We continue to refute this fundamentally incorrect opinion. In the article “Smart Vineyard: Rooting Without Problems,” we learned how to get an excellent annual seedling from cut cuttings in one season. In this article we will talk about how to plant this seedling correctly so that in the next 7-8 years you will not have problems with the bush’s power and its formation. This time we’ll figure out what catarrh is, how to properly maintain the soil in the vineyard, and what plants can and cannot be planted next to grapevine.
So, your cuttings have taken root and are doing great. In autumn, these annual seedlings can be planted on permanent place, and this needs to be done in such a way that it would be necessary to water and feed the vine only two or three times during the summer. Experienced winegrowers believe that a stable and strong vineyard can only be created through the organization of specially designed planting holes or trenches, equipped with deep watering and good drainage. How to do this correctly?
This method has been tested by many years of experience and ensures good development of the bush with any forming method. Here it is important to follow two basic rules, namely that, firstly, the roots should not be buried more than 40 centimeters - this will facilitate timely warming up and will not slow down the growth of the bush. Secondly, the roots must have a large supply of moisture, which can only be achieved at great depths. This seemingly contradiction can be avoided if the planting pits are properly arranged.
The depth of such a pit should be 70 cm, width - 40 cm, length - 80 cm, it should be extended in the direction from south to north. The dug earth is placed in a certain place, where it is mixed with sand and humus (sand - one bucket, humus - two). Then we make drainage: pour a shovel of ash at the bottom of the hole, on top of which a layer of gravel, crushed stone or expanded clay 10 cm thick is laid (this will be approximately 3.5 buckets).
On the south side of the pit, a piece of pipe with a diameter of 10-15 cm is stuck into the gravel - any pipe will do (plastic, asbestos-cement). The length of the pipe should be such that it rises 7-10 cm above the soil surface. After this, various sticks and planks are laid on the gravel so that our drainage does not become covered with earth from the very beginning.
Next, we fill the hole with a 20 cm high layer of earth mixed with sand and humus, and 10-15 cm north of the pipe we make a small mound, place a seedling on it, straightening the roots well, and fill the hole completely with earth. When planting, the seedling must be tilted from the pipe to the center of the hole - this will provide it with good heating. When planting, the two lower buds must be buried in the ground; one or two are left on the surface, depending on the expected formation of the future vine. We will talk in more detail about the formation methods in the following articles.
A bush planted in this way does not need to be fertilized in the first year, you only need to water it, for which every week until mid-summer we pour 1-2 buckets of water into the pipe, depending on the weather conditions. It is easy to water through a pipe, the water does not evaporate, and its consumption is much less. Next year you can deliver it to the roots in the same way. organic fertilizers and various other supplements.
The top of the pipe must be covered with a brick or a tin can, this will protect it from clogging and any living creatures, such as frogs or toads, getting inside. In subsequent years, it is necessary to water and “feed” the planted bush in this way according to the usual scheme, which we will consider in more detail in the following articles.
The organization of special trenches, 70 cm deep, 30-40 cm wide, the length can be arbitrary, will help to enlarge the formation, strengthen the bushes and increase the amount of harvest. Drainage (crushed stone, expanded clay, gravel) 10 cm thick is also poured into the bottom of the trench, and pipes are installed every four meters. To prevent the drainage from swimming, slate or planks are laid on top of it, and this entire “structure” is filled with earth mixed with sand and humus at a ratio of 4:2:1 (earth, humus, sand, respectively).
Grape bushes are planted in ordinary holes on both sides of the trench at a distance of a meter and a half. Effect in in this case even better, since the trench is a huge container with an improved environment common to all roots. The roots of young seedlings very quickly find their way into the trench and develop well there, which helps to increase the power of the bush, which means the amount of harvest also increases.
It’s easy to water such a vineyard - just put the hose in the pipe, and water flows all night, the amount necessary watering throughout the summer ranges from 2 to 4, depending on the weather.
It should be noted that if you have loose soil on your site fertile soils, then drainage is not necessary; you can fill holes or trenches with well-ripened humus.
By catarrhization one should understand the removal of the superficial (dew) roots of the grapevine, which are dew collectors. Let's figure out whether it is necessary to carry out catarrhization in your vineyard, and find out its pros and cons.
Experienced winegrowers remove surface roots for the following reasons:
However, experts believe that catarrhization is not always beneficial for grapes:
And in order to prevent surface roots from losing moisture in dry weather, the soil under the bushes needs to be mulched. Mulch conserves water well and helps improve soil structure and increase fertility. This is discussed in more detail in the article “Organic farming: stop destroying the soil by digging and weeding.” Mulched soil absorbs moisture from the air and promotes its fall in the form of dew; accordingly, moisture surges are smoothed out and dew roots are not affected; in addition, with heavy rainfall, cracking of the berries is not observed.
From all of the above, we can draw some conclusions about the content of the soil under the grape bushes.
First of all, we organize “smart” holes or trenches to create optimal mode watering and nutrition. Then we mulch the soil under the bushes with any organic materials at hand (straw, sawdust, husks, hay, mowed grass). The spaces between the rows can be grassed or beds can be arranged there for growing various vegetables. We’ll talk about what can and cannot be planted near grapes a little later.
In any case, it is best to separate the lawn from the mulch with a border made of anything (boards, bricks, slate). If this is not done, there will never be order in your vineyard - mulch will spill into the rows, and weeds will crawl under the grape bushes.
If you mow the weeds between the rows twice a month, they will quickly disappear, giving way to meadow grasses, which not only are not afraid of mowing, but even better after it, they grow, as a result of which you will have a wonderful lawn between the grapes.
If you decide to organize a vegetable bed between the rows, it is also better to fence it with a border and raise it a little. This is discussed in more detail in the article “Organic farming: how to build smart beds”. However, not all vegetable crops can be grown next to grapevines.
Allelopathy is the science of plants that studies their influence on each other in the process of growing together. We talked about this in the article “Organic farming: intensive planting”.
Regarding grapes, the famous Austrian winegrower Lenz Moser began extensive scientific experiments on this topic back in the forties of the last century. Even then, he noticed that different weeds affect the vine in different ways. For example, shepherd's purse and woodlice help the bushes to develop, while yarrow, tansy, and wormwood weaken the grapes. At first Moser associated the oppression of the bushes with the fact that weeds they take away moisture and nutrition, but then I noticed that even single weeds greatly affect the condition of the grapes. It was noticed that the bushes, weakened by harmful neighbors, froze out in winter along with the roots, while the vine, overgrown with shepherd's purse, legumes or cereals, tolerated the cold normally.
The same can be said about growing various vegetables next to grapes. For example, where soybeans grew, the shoots stretched up to 1.2 meters in length, and freezing was no more than 3%, and if potatoes were planted next to the grapes, the length of the shoots was no more than half a meter, and up to 22% of the bushes froze. Thus, Moser conducted a large number of experiments and tested 174 cultivated and wild plants. The conclusion has become obvious - some crops stimulate the growth of grapes and increase their resistance to cold and disease, while others, on the contrary, inhibit the vine. It should also be noted that bushes growing in clean soil were not always more developed than those under which plants useful for grapes grew.
TO useful plants, most often grown in gardens, include: dill, cucumber, sorrel, peas, onions, radishes, cabbage of any variety, beets, strawberries, melon. Of the flowers, the most useful for grapes are asters, forget-me-nots, phlox, and primrose.
Plants such as parsley, eggplants, peppers of various varieties, potatoes, sunflowers, tomatoes should not be planted near grapes. various varieties lettuce, corn, flowers - clematis, marigold (calendula), cornflower, bindweed.
When organizing a vineyard, you should pay special attention to this and plant only those crops next to the grapes that will contribute to its growth. better growth and development.
So, we now know how to choose the most suitable variety or root a cutting of a vine we like by cutting it at a neighbor’s dacha. We figured out how to properly plant a young bush in order to provide it with nutrition and moisture for a long time. We can now choose how to maintain the soil under the bushes, and we know which plants cannot and which should be planted next to the vine. It should be noted that when planting grapes, it is not at all necessary to organize a specially designated area for this; you can simply plant the bush on a gazebo in the yard - but these are questions related directly to the formation. In the next article we will look in detail at this most difficult procedure for most gardeners. To be continued...
Growing grapes in Russian regions is becoming increasingly popular, and today few people can be surprised by the presence of such a plant on personal plot. This situation is largely due to the emergence of new varieties that can survive in cold climates. For good growth It is important not only to follow the rules for choosing a place and caring for a plant, but what is no less important is what can and cannot be planted next to grapes.
The desire to have different varieties of grapes on your personal plot is natural. At the same time, many gardeners are concerned about whether this will affect the nature of fruiting. Planting different varieties of grapes will naturally entail the process of cross-pollination, but the hybrid qualities will only affect the seeds, so the color, shape and taste of the fruit will not change.
When choosing a variety, you always pay attention to the characteristics of the variety, the characteristics of fruiting and the timing of ripening. This leaves out one of the important points- the ability of a plant to self-pollinate. There are two groups:
For crops with flowers of both sexes, the presence of another species nearby is not important, and they are little dependent on insects for fruiting. At the same time, the presence of another species nearby has a positive effect on the yield indicators.
There are varieties that are characterized by female flowers. The work of natural pollinators in the form of insects is important for them, and planting bushes with bisexual flowers nearby has a positive effect on them. During periods of bad weather, varieties incapable of self-pollination require manual work.
Despite the possibility of planting different grape varieties nearby, it is important to consider the range important details. Plants have a number of significant differences in terms of breeding qualities, so caring for them can differ significantly. In this regard, the compatibility of varieties should be taken into account when planting plants on the territory that do not differ much in terms of growing and care conditions. The following points should be taken into account:
There are early and late ripening crops that require different quantities heat. Bushes can differ significantly in shoot height and growth power; some varieties do not require strong support, others can grow up to 2 m. The choice of planting scheme and work with plant nutrition depends on such characteristics.
The proximity of grapes to certain types of plants can affect fruiting rates both positively and negatively. In this regard, before planting a garden crop next to a tree, you should find out how it will affect the growth of the bush. Entire works of scientists have been devoted to such questions, finding out what is recommended to be placed under grape bushes.
The most famous was the classification of the Austrian scientist Lenz Moser, who compiled a table of the usefulness of each plant for grapes in points. In it, sour sorrel is recognized as the most useful “neighbor”.
Green manure
The quality of the soil and moisture directly affect the growth and fruiting of grapes. Green manure helps improve soil quality, which is achieved by growing certain types of plants and then adding them to the soil. This technique helps to enrich the soil with nutrients, increase its moisture capacity and looseness, and activate the work of beneficial microflora.
The best green manures for grapes are:
- lupine;
- sweet clover;
- clover;
- mustard
- rye.
Legumes are sown in late July, cereals in August to September, and during work they add mineral fertilizers. Planting of green manure is carried out only in regions with sufficient rainfall, otherwise the plants will become direct competitors to the grape bushes, depriving them of precious moisture.
Winter crops are planted in the ground at the end of April or beginning of May, spring crops in October or November. When carrying out work, it is important not to damage the roots of the grapes.
Helper weeds Weeds help keep the plant from, therefore, when laying shoots for the winter, they cover them. During hot weather, they will prevent the evaporation of moisture from the soil; just place them in the aisle. Green mass is considered a good raw material for making compost, and when burned, you can get ash, which is an excellent natural source nutrients for plants.
Planting cucumbers near trellises
The proximity of cucumbers and grapes is considered acceptable. In this case, trellises are used to grow the former, but it is important to choose a variety that performs well in outdoor conditions.
Strawberries between the rows
The land between the grape bushes is characterized high humidity, and the shoots form a shadow. Such conditions are considered optimal for strawberries. At the same time, due to the different penetrations of the root system deep into the plant, the plants do not compete with each other for nutrients.
When planting, it is important to take into account that the distance to the grape bush should be sufficient for free collection of both types of berries. Often, when growing in this way, gardeners are faced with a discrepancy in the ripening time of crops. In June, strawberries begin to bear fruit, but at the same time it is necessary to treat grape shoots with pesticides, which prohibits the consumption of sprayed berries.
Roses
Previously, roses were frequent “neighbors” of grape shoots. This is how the owners protected the plantings from uninvited guests in the form of stray cattle. Flowers were considered an indicator of a disease dangerous to grapes - mildew. The first signs of it on roses appear a little faster, so in this case you can start fighting earlier.
Onions and garlic
Planting onions and garlic next to grapes helps repel a large number of pests. It is permissible to plant only turnips; it is better to avoid choosing varieties of pearl onions and chives for these purposes. It is important to periodically loosen and fertilize the plants.
Cabbage
For grapes, proximity to white cabbage. To reduce the risk of diseases of both plants, it is better to use “neighbor” for planting early varieties. They have short term ripening and are therefore less susceptible to pests.
Other flowers and vegetables
The greenery of grape bushes can shade garden crops from the sun. Flower crops thrive in the shade of the shoots - aster, viola, phlox, primrose and many others. Most types of greens coexist well with grapes - sorrel, dill, spinach. Cucumbers find additional support when grown on trellises.
Neutral interacting cultures
Neutral garden crops in relation to grapes include cherry, pear, plum and apple trees. Planting them in the neighborhood does not have a significant impact. In this case, it is important to take into account the factor of sufficiency of light, since tall trees and shrubs can lead to shading, and lack of light is one of the factors in reducing yield.
Plants that cause mild harm
Potatoes, eggplants, celery and capsicums planted next to grapes can cause minor damage.
Antagonists
When planting grapes, it is important to know what not to plant nearby. In most cases, a ban is imposed when crops begin to compete for nutrients, are prone to the same diseases, or differ significantly in the care required for growth.
Wild growing
Plants harmful to grapes include weeds. The most harmful include dandelion, shoots of wormwood, yarrow, wheatgrass, plantain leaves, and nettle.
Vegetable garden
You can't sow near grapes lawn grass, tomatoes, corn, horseradish and sunflowers.
Other "enemies"
All varieties are prohibited garden crops, which have common pests with grapes and are prone to the most dangerous diseases for them. Failure to comply with this rule greatly increases the risk of infection.
Do not plant plants with a similar type of root system structure next to each other, as this leads to competition between them. You should not plant crops nearby that require frequent watering. As a result of excessive soil moisture, the roots of the grapes will begin to rot, and this can lead to its death.
Many gardeners are faced with the fact that there is less and less space on their plot, and they want to plant many different crops. I see only two ways out of this situation: either by an effort of will to limit the unbridled desire, or to find some new ways to increase the “opportunities” of the beds. For example, grow other crops along with grapes.
About three years ago we disbanded the garden bed with remontant garden strawberries, which was located next to the vineyard. Some mustaches survived because they managed to crawl under the grape bushes. There the strawberries took root and grew. She felt great, although the berry harvest was scanty. The grapes clearly liked the proximity to strawberries. Self-seeding dill grew well nearby. Apparently, the grapes were not irritated by this proximity. The garlic planted nearby was strong and tall, although its heads were smaller than we expected. It may be a coincidence, but there were no wasps at all on the side of the vineyard where the garlic was located. Eggplants fared the worst. The seedlings planted between the grape bushes weakened and practically did not increase in size. I had to remove it. Several grape bushes under which it was planted had problems. These unsystematized observations of the joint cultivation of grapes and other crops became the beginning of a serious study of this issue.
The mutual influence of plants interests many gardeners and gardeners. We all know that plants can help their neighbors, make them feel worse, or maintain neutral relationships. Fierce wars are sometimes waged not only on the surface of the beds, but also underground. Where the roots are. We are not talking about a massive seizure of territories, when the main culture has neither space nor normal nutrition. Even single plants growing nearby can have an effect.
Books by N. Kurdyumov and Lenz Moser helped me figure out whether to plant grapes together with other crops or keep them isolated from them. The work “Viticulture in a New Way” by the famous Austrian winegrower Lenz Moser confirmed my observations and the reliability of the opinions of familiar Ukrainian and Moldavian gardeners. In addition, the vast experience of this practitioner made it possible to substantiate bold conclusions. He warned that it is important to take into account the location of the site, the original structure of the soil, the age and nature of the formation of the grapes, the time of year, climate and many other circumstances. Such a huge amount of factual material has been analyzed that the experience of Lenz Moser deserves trust.
There are many plants that improve the condition of grapes. Lenz Moser wrote:
The idea that grapevines grow best on bare soil is just an old superstition. ... Grains get along well with the roots of the vine. Low-growing types of clover, vetch, peas, quinoa, speedwell, and so on also do not cause harm. Woodlice, sedum, and some mosses even promote the growth of the vine.
Here is a list of plants that have a positive effect on grapes. They are listed in alphabetical order:
Asters, arabis (alpine rhizome), aubriecia, fava beans, spring vetch, viola (Pansy), gypsophila (kachim), peas, field buckwheat, doricnium, fumaria, melon, strawberries, cereals (many), common groundsel, onion onions, alfalfa, mallow, chard, chickweed, forget-me-nots, cucumbers, sedum (white and hare cabbage), purslane, primrose, radish, soft wheat, mignonette, rye, beets (table and sugar), scorciera (black root), soybean, prickly tartar (thistle), dill, drummond phlox, cauliflower, greater celandine, garden spinach, sorrel, sainfoin, multileaf ulcer.
There are other plants that are less desirable for grapes. Lenz Moser noted:
Wild field radish, shepherd's purse, field mustard, bluebells, field sow thistle, great nettle, carrots, celery, scilla, wormwood, St. John's wort and others harm the vine.
The list of these plants is also quite long. I present them in alphabetical order:
Amaranth (amaranth), eggplant, whiteweed (hairy, black, etc.), thistle (sow thistle), blue cornflower, field bindweed, small-flowered galinsoga, gaillardia, cloves, knotweed, elecampane, elecampane, calendula (marigold), potato, clematis (clematis), nettle (all types), leeks, toadflax, white pigweed, canadian spurge, cypress spurge, hemp, corn, meadow bluegrass, dandelion, parsley, capsicum (sweet and bitter), black nightshade, tansy, plantain (large, lanceolate), sunflower, wormwood (common, field, bitter), millet, creeping wheatgrass, ryegrass, lettuce, rapeseed, tomatoes, yarrow, horseradish, aromatic china, chives, curly sorrel, blue bristle grass, green (setaria), field parsley.
Weeds are found both among enemy plants and among grape plant friends. Lenz Moser noted:
The bushes that grew in weed-free soil were almost half stunted in growth, and the soil itself was bare, rocky and hard, while nearby it was soft and loose. In row-spacings without green fertilizer, the soil could only be worked in a wet state, and large blocks were turned out and dried out the next day. The harvest of these bushes was not as bad as might have been expected, taking into account the growth of the aboveground part of the bushes. Later, I stopped the experiment and sowed abundant green fertilizer, since I realized that without this the bushes would die in about 10 years.
The growth of weeds in the spring and first half of summer takes away a lot of nutrients and moisture from the grapes. At this time, there is intensive growth of aboveground and underground parts of the bushes. It is necessary to cultivate the row spacing in planting annual and biennial bushes. “But from the third year, the row spacing can already be sown with grasses. For this purpose, you can use mixtures of low-growing types of clover, park turf mixture or other low-growing grasses, for example, chickweed, daisy, etc. ... You can leave naturally growing weeds in the vineyard, if they are not malicious. If sow thistle, wheatgrass or bluebells predominate among them, it is better to sow cultivated plants to prevent the widespread spread of harmful weeds, since their foci are very difficult to eliminate.
This clarification is interesting:
There is no need to cultivate the soil in close proximity to the trunk and roots. In many cases, this is even dangerous, as it can damage the plants.
Weeds also have to be removed when the bushes are low and densely planted.
Here we must completely destroy weeds, primarily because of mildew. If weeds grow to the clusters and even outgrow them, the clusters die from the fungus, despite all means of protection. It wasn't like that in the old days. Before mildew appeared in the vineyards, our neighbors “cultivated” mainly wild millet, as well as some other weeds, and successfully used them as forage grasses. There is no doubt that it was thanks to this vegetation that the vineyards remained healthy for centuries.
In 1941 - 1943, Lenz Moser was not able to care for the vineyard (about 0.5 hectares), which was located on a mountainous plot. The land was overgrown with tall weeds: thistle, nettle, quinoa, etc. However, the vineyards occupied by herbs grew, and they were preserved during the war years with virtually no damage.
For grapes, it is important that the soil is structured. The roots of green manure plants “penetrate deep into the soil, thereby creating a connection between the deep soil horizons and the external environment. When these roots die, the cavities they leave behind are quickly filled by the grape roots, which find nutrients here in an easily digestible form. After embedding, the green mass and roots decompose, turning into the best and cheapest humus.” And since the roots of such plants penetrate very deeply (up to two meters), when they decompose, nutrients end up at great depths.
As a green fertilizer, you can sow vetch, peas, oats, barley, buckwheat, kale, rye, wheat, alfalfa, reps and some other fast-growing crops that produce a lot of green mass from the end of July. They are plowed in in the fall. In spring, grasses can use up the moisture from winter precipitation that grapes need.
Lenz Moser attached great importance to living in the soil of the vineyards. earthworms.
A vineyard with a lot of earthworms in the soil is in good condition, but if they are completely absent, the development of the grape bushes worsens. If densely growing plants sown with green manure are rolled down and left to lie down for several weeks, they form an excellent cover on the soil surface.
Under it, earthworms breed in huge numbers. In soils poor in humus they are almost absent.
To ensure that the grasses in the spring and first half of summer do not take away a lot of moisture and nutrients from the grape bushes, they should be mowed regularly, leaving the green mass on the soil. Over time, a covering layer will build up - the basis of humus, which inhibits the growth of grasses.
In the ninth year after sowing the herbs in the vineyard, a humus layer 6-8 cm thick formed covering the soil, and the soil is soft like a Persian carpet, due to which it completely absorbs moisture even from the heaviest precipitation, soil erosion or water runoff even on steep slopes completely excluded.
Lenz Moser noted that this technique is only possible with mature and strong grape bushes. Their harvest increases greatly. In young and weak bushes, some suppression of growth may be observed at first. For example, barley inhibits the growth of seedlings, but later only brings benefits.
Some of the conclusions made by Lenz Moser seem very bold. The author understood this perfectly. People who visited his vineyards “said they would never have believed anything like this unless they had seen it with their own eyes.”
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Not every gardener can grow good grapes on his site, bringing bountiful harvest. In the process of growing one has to not only deal with unfavorable climatic conditions, but also provide the most comfortable conditions for the cultivation of this crop. A thoughtful and serious approach to this process is the key to a high-quality harvest.
Summer residents often save space on their garden plot and they try to make neighbors cultures that cannot get along with each other. In this case, you can forget about the harvest, because not all crops can coexist peacefully side by side. But it is within the power of the summer resident to choose as neighbors such plants that not only will not cause harm, but will also contribute to the abundant harvest and health of the crop.
An irrepressible passion for experimentation can have dire consequences. Knowing what can and cannot be planted near a vineyard will help preserve the harvest and not ruin the plant.
In order to choose the “right” neighbors for grape plantings, you need to pay attention to:
Depending on the type, grape crops need different types of soil. Table varieties prefer sand and gravel soil. Grape roots need air and water, so a light soil structure is ideal option. Chernozem, clay soil, loams - in such soil the planted plant will develop without problems, receiving a sufficient amount of the nutrients it needs.
The mixed composition of the soil is also the key to a rich harvest. Just sandy soil will not work - in the cold season, a plant planted in such soil will quickly freeze, and in the summer the sand will easily give up moisture, and the crop will not receive enough of it. Also not soil will do with high acidity. Don’t forget about improving the nutritional value of the soil. As a fertilizer, something as simple as straw is ideal.
Each plant has different needs for moisture and oxygen. Some crops need less water, others more. Therefore, neighboring plants should require approximately the same watering regime.
Illumination level – most important factor, influencing how high-quality the harvest will be. Therefore, neighboring plants and planted grapes should need a similar amount of light.
What plants will exist mutually beneficial in the neighboring territory? Various berries are among grape-friendly crops. Thanks to the berries planted nearby, the taste of the grape fruit will acquire specificity, and the clusters will become candied and increase in size. Strawberries, wild strawberries - no matter what the gardener chooses, by making the berries neighbors of the grape planting, he improves the quality of the harvest.
Soil saturated with nitrogen is an ideal factor influencing the quality of grown grapes. Legumes are among the plants that saturate the soil with nitrogen. Thanks to this, the coexistence of different cultures will be mutually beneficial. Moss planted nearby will contribute to the formation of plants, and cereals will have a beneficial effect on the development of the vine.
You can plant greens, dill, spinach nearby - these plants make great friends with grapes. You can also plant flowers nearby - forget-me-nots, asters, phlox. They will perform not only an aesthetic function, but will also play a positive role in the formation of the vine and provide a tasty and high-quality harvest.
By planting celandine nearby, you can be sure that diseases will bypass the grape planting. If it is not possible to provide sufficient watering to the grapes, you can plant sorrel nearby. It will not only have a beneficial effect on planting, but will also allow you to water the plant less often.
Vegetables planted nearby - beets, cucumbers and cauliflower - will have a positive effect on the growth of grapes. And garlic and onions will get rid of negative impact pests Currants planted nearby will give a unique aroma to the grapes.
Not only grapes grow well near apple trees, but also various vegetables. When planting apple trees, special attention will need to be paid to the depth of the planting hole.
When planting other plants next to grapes, you need to be very careful. Many of the unfriendly crops can ruin not only a young seedling, but also an adult crop. Calendula, cauliflower and clary sage are the very “enemies” that a short time will reduce the gardener’s efforts to nothing. It is important to avoid planting these plants nearby.
Hostile crops can also include plants that produce toxins dangerous to grapes. Corn, potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants are the “enemies” of grapes. A war can break out due to the fact that the root systems cannot equally share the incoming nutrients. The result will be a ruined harvest and wasted work for the gardener.
You should also avoid the proximity of plantain, dandelions and nettles. A clove planted nearby will have a depressing effect.
Hot peppers and carrots deprive the soil around the grape planting of nutrients, which negatively affects the plant. The same applies to garden crops such as horseradish and lettuce. And such a well-known plant as meadow bluegrass will make the soil not only less nutritious, but also slow down the growth and development of grapes.
Weeds can play both positive and negative roles in the development of the grapevine. The struggle for nutrients and, as a consequence, developmental delay is Negative consequences from the neighborhood of weeds. But this can be avoided if you protect young bushes from them. Only three years later, this influence can change the vector of movement towards the positive.
During this period, the neighboring area can be planted with low-growing grasses. But you should get rid of bells and wheatgrass throughout the entire growth of the grapes. If the bush density is high, the weeds must be removed. If this is not done, the grapes will die from the fungus. But planting various herbs between the rows will help increase soil fertility. Before doing this, you need to make sure that the feeding area of the bushes is sufficient.
IN warm time year, and especially in spring, weeds can take most of the nutrients and moisture from the roots of the grapes. When removing weeds near the grapevine, you must try not to damage the roots of the plants. Therefore, soil cultivation should be done as carefully as possible. The best method is mowing.
At the same time, the green mass remains on the surface, creating ideal conditions for the growth of humus. And this, in turn, will curb the excessive growth of weeds.
Many gardeners are interested in how to improve the already comfortable conditions for their vineyard. The first thing that comes to mind is to fertilize the soil. After all, it is common knowledge that fertilizer is the key good development and fruiting. To do this, it is not necessary to buy expensive fertilizers in specialized stores.
Green manure plants come to the rescue. They have a large green mass, which has a detrimental effect on pests. The basic principles of planting green manure are as follows:
Legumes, cereals and buckwheat can act as green fertilizer. The former will help enrich the soil with nitrogen and phosphorus, which will have a beneficial effect on the development of the grapevine. Also leguminous plants cleans the soil and makes it looser.
The advantage of cereals is that they grow in any soil. Developed root system provides large green mass. Such crops enrich the soil well with calcium and nitrogen, and also make it more breathable.
A large number of worms in the soil makes it an ideal environment for growing grapes. Green manure plants can help create favorable conditions for breeding worms.
Interesting feature roses is that they get sick a day earlier than grapes. This makes them excellent catalysts that will warn of approaching danger. The main enemy of grape crops is powdery mildew, which is a wind-borne fungus. It is capable of not only attacking large areas, but also instantly infecting plants.
Thanks to the fact that competent gardeners have made it a tradition to plant roses near grapevines, they insure the vineyard against such a common disease. After all, in 24 hours you can take preventive measures and save plants from fungus. In addition, insects can also harm the vineyard. And a rose bed is an alternative habitat for harmful insects.
By adhering to the rules given in this article, a gardener with any experience will be able to grow healthy grapes. In the process of caring for the grapevine, it is important to perform a number of mandatory actions:
The guarantee of a rich grape harvest - proper care and timely protection of the plant from exposure environment and harmful factors.
To see which plants get along well with each other, see the following video.
