The woodworking machine is used not only in carpentry or industrial workshops. Using this device on the farm, it is possible to independently produce any piece of furniture and even build a house. Let's look at how to make woodworking machines with your own hands below.
Each woodworking machine consists of main and additional parts. The main parts are:
Additional elements of a woodworking machine:
A heavy structure made of cast iron or solid steel alloy is used as a frame. All structural parts of the machine are installed on the bed. It is responsible for their location and for the stability of the device. In most cases, the frame is installed on a reinforced concrete foundation.
The main function of the desktop is to capture all work items. It is made from pre-polished cast iron. There are two table options: movable and fixed.
To attach the cutting tool to the machine, a working shaft device is used. There are several varieties of this device, which differ in the type of cutting tool attached to it. Highlight:
It is always made of turned steel, characterized by strength, balance and the presence of a place on which the cutting tool is attached.
Various parts act as cutting tools. They differ in design and functional features, as well as shape and size.
High quality carbon steel is used for their manufacture. Let's look at some types cutting tools for woodworking machine:
Woodworking machines photo:
Woodworking machines have many advantages over hand tools for processing wooden surfaces. Firstly, the operating speed of a woodworking machine is much higher, so using this machine significantly saves time on processing one part.
A universal woodworking machine is capable of processing various parts and performs several types of work, such as sanding, milling and drilling.
If all manufacturing technologies for a woodworking machine are followed, such a device can serve its owner for decades.
Modern CNC woodworking machines have improved operating functions, during which the person working on the machine practically does not overwork. It is enough to launch a pre-recorded program and install the part. At this rate, the number of parts is increasing, and the time for processing them is decreasing. Such machines are capable of working around the clock and continuously.
If we consider woodworking machines for household use, there are also many advantages among them:
1. Such machines are equipped with a motor with an average power of 2.2 kW, this power allows you to perform work quickly and without overloading.
2. Such machines have good quality processed products.
3. They do not require high maintenance and operation costs.
4. The ability to install additional attachments allows you to increase the number of functions of a household woodworking machine.
5. The main functions of such a machine are sawing, sanding, milling and drilling wood.
6. A large number of functions and the versatility of such equipment allows you to work with various types wood, while performing various operations.
7. If we look at reviews of woodworking machines, then for private or home use an excellent option would be to purchase or independently manufacture a household machine.
The scope of use of woodworking machines is quite wide due to their versatility. They are used in both private and industrial woodworking.
Woodworking machines are used to produce semi-fabricated elements or blanks, such as boards, bars, veneer, and shavings. They also produce parts for wooden products or entire wooden structures, for example: parquet, flooring, furniture, parts of musical instruments, etc.
All tasks associated with wood processing are easily solved by a woodworking machine. This device not only saws and drills wood, but also grinds it and even carves, which takes tens of times more time to do manually.
In relation to technological principle wood processing woodworking machines are divided into:
Universal machines are widely popular due to their versatility. They are used in a variety of industrial and individual enterprises. The peculiarity of this machine is that it can perform almost all types of wood processing. But at the same time, the quality of the work performed will be slightly lower than, for example, with a specialized machine.
Specialized woodworking machines are capable of performing only one function, while being able to be reconfigured and used in different industries.
The use of special machines is limited to the manufacture of certain parts; other operations cannot be performed on such a machine.
Specialized machines are:
One of the main types of wood processing is milling machines, which perform the functions:
Milling woodworking machines are divided into:
Tabletop woodworking machines are also distinguished, which in turn are divided into:
Lathes - work with different types wood from soft to hardwood. They are equipped with a copying device that produces identical parts. The scope of use is not limited to art workshops. Lathes produce parts of various shapes: conical, cylindrical.
Lathes are divided into:
Circular saw type woodworking machines perform longitudinal, angular and cross cutting. There are manual and mechanized ones.
Reaming machines plan boards for flat slope. There are:
To determine the type or type of woodworking machine, there are special designations. The first one or two letters indicate the type based on the operating principle, and the next ones indicate the technological properties of the machine. To find out the number of working elements on a node, there are numbers between these letters.
In relation to the accuracy of processing the part, woodworking machines are distinguished:
To make a universal woodworking machine you will need:
This device will easily sharpen, sand and cut wooden parts.
When choosing an engine, pay attention to the following parameters:
The shaft must have a device for attaching a drill chuck. If it is missing, you need to sharpen the end part of the shaft using a file. The diameter of the fastening should be slightly larger than the diameter of the cartridge. Then turn on the engine and sharpen the chuck so that it is secured to the shaft. Using a file and lapping paste, adjust the chuck to the size of the shaft. If such a paste is not available, rub sandpaper and dilute the abrasive with oil.
In the central part of the shaft, a hole should be drilled and a thread M5 M6 should be cut, in order to protect the cartridge from accidental slipping, it should be fixed using a countersunk head.
The standard layout of the machine allows the wooden part to be placed in different positions in relation to the machine.
Woodworking machine drawings:
The table is fastened to the frame using two bolts, and the slats are fastened using fixing brackets.
To construct the frame, you will need six metal corners with a cross-section of 2.5x2.5 cm, and one corner with a cross-section of 4x4 cm. Their length is 30 cm. To connect, use welding machine. Monitor the quality of welding seams, as the machine constantly vibrates during operation.
To make a tabletop, you can use plastic, metal, boards or plywood.
To install the parts on the table space, you will need to make a strip and bracket. To install a pulley, cutter or saw into the chuck hole, you must additionally make adapter bushings and mandrels.
The manufacture of a woodworking machine must begin with its functional purpose, than fewer features performs the device, the easier it is to build.
To make a bed, take metal corner or pipe. Weld a strong frame, and then strengthen it with additional corners to reduce the level of vibration of the structure.
It is better to install the frame in a certain place and concrete it into the floor.
The next stage is the construction or purchase of a woodworking shaft, which has a width of 30 cm, which can accommodate several knives at once.
To build a table, use strong and smooth steel, about 1 cm thick. To adjust the planing thickness, make folding table, consisting of two separate parts. This way the height of one part will be adjustable. In this case, the second part requires rigid fixation.
For the engine, take a device with a power of 2 to 5 kW, with a rotation speed of 2000 to 3000 rpm. If the speed is lower, this will affect the quality of the machine.
Install the engine on the frame. Pull the belts and make a moving angle that will help you adjust the length of sawing of the part. Install another corner that will align the position of the workpiece in relation to the cutting tool.
Processing of wood blanks is carried out using special turning equipment. Using a device of this type allows you to perform various operations with high accuracy. If necessary, we can produce lathe on wood with your own hands. This will save money. To manufacture this device, you must familiarize yourself with its design features and take advantage of expert advice.
This unit includes several main components. Each of them performs a specific function. To make a homemade device, you will need to become more familiar with the structure of these elements.
Bed. The basis of any machine, including woodworking. This unit ensures the stability of the structure on the working surface and also facilitates the fixation of individual elements of the machine. Thanks to the frame, all components are located in the right places.
It is important to remember that stationary devices have a larger frame equipped with legs. In turn, desktop units have a more compact base, which makes them mobile. When making a woodworking machine with your own hands, you need to pay attention Special attention this unit, since the accuracy and efficiency of the structure as a whole depends on it.
Headstock. This unit performs a very important function: it ensures the rotation of the wooden blank during its processing. The workpiece is fixed in a chuck located in the spindle shaft. It is worth noting that some small-sized machines include a headstock that can move along the guides of the base (bed). Its movement allows you to adjust the location of individual parts relative to each other.
When the part is being machined, the headstock of the lathe is securely secured. Models that are classified as stationary often combine this element with a frame, which makes it completely motionless.
Tailstock. This unit, which is part of the woodworking structure, is not static. It performs a very important function: it fixes the blank in the desired position during processing. Securing the workpiece by means of the rear assembly takes into account its pressing against the chuck. Due to the fact that the tailstock is able to move freely along the guide elements of the frame, fixing and processing of parts of different lengths is ensured.
Note! The tailstock must be in line with the spindle shaft.
Caliper. Very important element design, thanks to which the movement of the cutter is realized. Moreover, the latter may have different location in relation to the spindle. In most homemade devices of this type, this function is performed by a tool rest, securely fastened in the working position.
This part of the machine is capable of moving along the guides of the base (bed). Small-sized desktop devices, as a rule, involve the use of an element such as a stop for cutters.
Thus, both a serial and a home-made machine is quite complex design. Any wood processing unit includes several interconnected units. Before you make a wood lathe with your own hands, you need to clearly understand the purpose of its components.
In serial devices, the frame is in most cases made of cast iron. This material is distinguished by its mass. For a homemade unit, you should choose a less heavy option. For example, as the basis for a future design, you can choose angles made of rolled angle steel. The recommended length of the segments is 125 cm.
The length of the bed can be increased, but this action will require intervention in other parts of the woodworking unit. Before making it, it is recommended to draw up a plan on paper. You can also take a ready-made drawing from the specialized website that will help you assemble a wood lathe with your own hands.
Let us consider step by step the algorithm of actions for the manufacture of this unit. First of all, you need to place the corresponding corners on a horizontal surface (open side to each other). Then it is recommended to place calibrated inserts between them, which will allow you to maintain the required distance of 4.5 cm.
Next you need to connect the guides. For these purposes, the same corners are most often used, differing only in size (19 cm). It is recommended to mark the points at which welding will be performed in advance. The jumpers are located near the edges of the long corners. The next step is the welding itself.
Helpful information! Bed of any homemade machine woodworking is the basis of the structure, so its installation is very important. Any violation in the future will affect the efficiency and accuracy of the unit, made by hand.
Then you need to attach another jumper of the same size. It should have cutouts for long corners. After installing this part, a cell should be formed for the headstock tenon. The dimensions of this geometric element require precise adherence. To install a standard headstock tenon, 4.5 x 16.5 cm is sufficient.
Traditionally, this part includes two components. They are made from steel corners. Standard dimensions of workpieces for welding – 5 and 3 cm. The joining of these elements is done by welding (in length). The result is two segments, which should have a length of 26 and 60 cm.
Tool rest on a lathe - needed for support when working with wood
The short element is used as a customizable support base. Moreover, one of the corner shelves must be cut at an angle so that 11 cm of the untouched profile remains. Before performing the same manipulation on the other wing, it is necessary to step back from the edge by 6 cm. The angle itself in the second case remains straight.
Next, you need to make a counter frame for a homemade woodworking machine. A steel plate is suitable for the manufacture of this element. The next step is to make the guide element and its clamp. As a material for these purposes, you can use a regular inch pipe. You need to make a longitudinal slot in it using a grinder. Craftsmen advise not to make this part longer than 15 cm.
Then the guide sleeve is installed in a 2.5 cm corner. The cut made with a grinder should be perpendicular to one of the shelves. Next, the structure must be fixed in a clamp and connected using welding equipment. After this, the tube is covered with a second corner and connected to it in the same way.
The finished guide part is joined by welding to the protruding flange of the angle. For final fastening, it is necessary to weld a nut to the rail, and equip the second part with a screw. Also, do not forget that with reverse side it is necessary to perform additional fixation of the structure. To do this, you can weld a metal rod to its individual parts. It will give the structure strength and rigidity.
The tool rest is fixed on a piece of reinforcement (smooth), which should have a diameter of 2 cm. Such a rod is fixed on the back side of the corner approximately in its center. At the end, it is necessary to connect the reinforcement to a long part (60 cm).
The drive must have sufficient power to handle wooden products. When purchasing this device, it is advisable to pay attention to the standard models. Their power varies from 1200 to 2000 watts. This is quite enough for processing various kinds of parts at home. The most commonly used drive is a power rating of 1200 watts.
Induction motors are often used in homemade wood lathes. It is not possible to make this device with your own hands. Another characteristic that is common among drives installed on self-made machines is three-phase operation.
Note! When assembling such equipment at home, it is quite difficult to purchase an engine that would have the required rotation speed. However, if desired, this indicator can be adjusted by changing the diameter of the pulleys.
When installing the drive, it is recommended to equip the frame with a special plate. It is fixed on the gate canopies and ensures a tighter pressing of the strap. Some craftsmen install a pedal on the platform, which allows them to change the number of revolutions per second while processing a wooden block.
To manufacture these components, you must have access to a metalworking machine. If this is not possible, it is recommended to buy ready-made structural elements. The headstock of a woodworking unit includes two housings that belong to the bearing category.
When assembling the machine yourself, it is important to remember that the height of the spindle axis above the base must be no less than 12 cm. This indicator affects the size of the front unit. The most suitable in this situation is a bearing block with a height of 7 cm. The shaft itself can be made on a metalworking device. Its diameter should not be less than 4 cm.
In turn, the procedure for making the tailstock of a wood lathe with your own hands is less complicated. This module includes 4 elements, including:
It is recommended to make the base from a steel angle, the height of which should not exceed 10 cm. To create a guide, you can use a tube measuring 4x15 cm. In its rear part, you must install a special plug with a hole (0.8 cm). In this case, the inner tube will have dimensions of 2 cm. Next, you need to make a drive screw. A thread is applied to it for the nut in the inner tube.
It is also worth noting that the headstock and tailstock should be on the same line. Otherwise, further construction of a woodworking machine will not bring any results. The headstocks are fixed to the bed in the same way as the tool rest.
If necessary, these functional elements can be purchased at a specialized store or ordered online. However, many craftsmen prefer to make these devices themselves. The most popular cutting elements today are Reyer and Meisel. They are quite simple to perform on a sharpening machine.
In order to do these cutting elements, a preparation will be required. You can use old tools (for example, a file) as it. The metalworking unit allows you to sharpen this blank quite quickly. Forming is performed at two points: where the blade will be located and the tail.
Related article:
Review of popular models of woodworking machines. Tips for selection and rules of use.
The next step in making a wood cutter with your own hands is stuffing a turned handle with a locking ring. In this way, you can independently produce cutters for a woodworking unit.
Note! As the initial material for making these functional elements, you can use not only files, but also rasps or fittings.
It is also important to remember that a homemade tool must first be tested on soft wood. Such a check will determine how well the cutter is made and whether it is advisable to use it when working with hard rocks.
From a design point of view, serial units of this type are quite complex. This is due to the fact that they are equipped with CNC. It is impossible to recreate such a system at home, so experts recommend making the simplest possible milling units.
When manufacturing such a unit, it is not recommended to use the classic version, in which the blank is located between the front and rear units. It is also advisable to abandon the functional part represented by the cutter. In this case, the functional element will be a manual router. The advantages of this design are its economy and increased functionality.
Turning and milling equipment used to process wood includes several components. You can do them yourself. First you need to make the base of the unit (bed). For its manufacture, as a rule, wooden blocks are used. This type of support is characterized by high strength and rigidity.
Then the front node is fixed, which should not move. The tailstock, on the contrary, must change its position by moving along the mounting panel.
When swinging an electric motor, one common method is used to increase its efficiency. A disk of smaller diameter is mounted on the drive shaft, and a larger one is mounted on a similar element of the front assembly. The interaction in this case is carried out by means of a belt drive.
As mentioned above, in this case, the tool for turning wood is a milling cutter. It is mounted at the top support point on a self-made platform. It is important to remember that in homemade devices connection is excluded functional element to CNC. Thus, it is in this order that the simplest unit with a cutter, equipped to the minimum, is manufactured.
A copier is a device that allows you to make carvings on a workpiece according to a given template. Thanks to it, it becomes possible to produce similar parts at high speed. A wood copying machine allows you to avoid painstaking work and is most often used in home workshops.
For self-made The copying element can be taken as a basis with a manual router. It must be placed on a plywood board, the thickness of which should not be more than 1.2 cm. The standard dimensions for such a workpiece are 20x50 cm.
Helpful information! The productivity of a wood milling and copying machine allows it to be used not only at home, but also in small industries.
Then you need to drill holes for the fastening elements, as well as install small bars that will serve as supports for the functional part. Next, the cutter must be placed between the clamps and secured using ordinary self-tapping screws. After this, all that remains is to place the block (7x3 cm) on the machine. It is used to attach the stencil.
This is how you make your own wood lathe with a copier. Videos that allow you to clearly understand this issue can be viewed on the Internet. Making this device is not that difficult. All work comes down to a simple modernization of a conventional unit.
A smaller device can also be made in a home workshop. A DIY mini wood lathe has a size of 20 to 30 cm. In order to make it, you will need an old motor and a power supply from an unnecessary Soviet-style radio. This small device is perfect for turning small wooden parts (for example, handles).
This device can also be used as a mini metal lathe. With your own hands, it is not difficult to make such a small device that will allow you to give the desired shape not only to wooden blanks, but also to products made of tin and even aluminum.
In this case, there is a certain algorithm of actions that should be followed. First of all, you need to take a metal sheet and prepare a box that will serve as a case for the engine. Experts recommend choosing sheets with a thickness of 1-1.5 mm. The plate must be bent in the shape of the letter “P” and a hole must be made in it for the shaft.
Next, you need to make several elements from a wooden block at once. The thickness of the material should be approximately 2-3 cm. First, the supporting casing is made, and then the supporting parts for the motor and rear assembly.
The next step is to cut square pieces of wood and glue them together into a “tower”. Then you need to secure the resulting structure using self-tapping screws (4 pcs.). In the end, all that remains is to mark the point of the holder, the function of which is performed by a self-tapping screw, and fix the faceplate on the engine side.
Such instructions allow you to make a small machine, the dimensions of which will not exceed 25 cm. Of course, such a device is not suitable for serious work. But for performing small tasks such a device is the most suitable option, which is very easy to assemble with your own hands. Mini lathe consumes very little electrical energy, which is also a plus.
If you have a workbench in your workshop, then the process of manufacturing a woodworking unit is greatly simplified. In this situation, there is no need to search for materials for the frame or to assemble it directly. A conventional drill fixed on a flat, horizontal surface of a workbench can replace a turning device.
Helpful information! The drill performs several functions at once, which in a conventional machine are performed by the front unit, as well as a rotation drive.
The drill is fixed using a clamp and a clamp, which must be secured to the neck of the electronic tool. However, the remaining components necessary for processing wooden blanks, you still have to collect it.
First of all, this concerns the tailstock, which acts as a stop. This unit is fixed parallel to the drill and, as a rule, is made of wooden blocks. For reliability, it is also recommended to use an adjustment screw, the head of which is sharpened to a cone.
Further assembly of the lathe from a drill is quite simple. The support can be replaced with a regular one wooden block, which is fixed on a horizontal plane using a clamp.
The main rule when assembling such a simple structure is to ensure alignment of the spindle rotation axis and the adjustment screw on the rear assembly. For example, from conventional drill You can temporarily assemble a lathe. Moreover, on such a machine you can both perform wood processing and produce blanks from soft metals (aluminum, copper, etc.).
Experts recommend studying training materials that will help you understand the operational nuances of a DIY wood lathe. Videos on this topic can be easily found on the Internet.
It would also be useful to consider the basic rules that should be followed when working on such equipment. Each of them must be completed without fail. For example, before you start processing a workpiece, you need to make sure that it is suitable for this. The blank should not have knots, cracks or deformations of the wood.
Placing the workpiece also requires following a certain procedure. Fixation is carried out using special fasteners, which are placed on the shaft of the front unit and on the rear bar.
Separately, it is worth mentioning that the processing accuracy is influenced by the rotation speed of the blank. Speed regulation is carried out by changing the position of the drive belt in the pulley channels. The process of processing a wooden blank requires care. It is recommended to take measurements of a product turned using a functional element.
During work, you must not forget about overalls. Goggles are used to protect the eyes from chips and dust. And also before starting work, it is necessary to check the serviceability of individual elements of equipment.
The machine must only be operated by someone who is familiar with its operation, technical maintenance and warned about possible dangers
The answer to the question of how to make a wood lathe at home will allow you to save money. Self-assembly of this unit requires preliminary calculations, drawing up a diagram, and care. Compliance with the instructions is the basic rule that must be followed when constructing such a device. A homemade unit can be a useful addition to any home workshop.
Wood – unique, unique, environmentally friendly pure material, which makes it highly sought after and popular. Making products from this material is considered the height of craftsmanship in the world. Homemade woodworking machines are in demand among small entrepreneurs who carry out individual orders.
Having woodworking tools or a special machine at hand, it is easy to show imagination and skill in all directions - build a house, equip country cottage area, make furniture and interior items.
In specialized stores, multifunctional machines are not cheap, so as an alternative, you should consider making your own.
What types of woodworking machines are there? What types of work are easy to perform on them?
Basically, the machines are used to trim and cut wood, sand it, and additionally turn it. Based on this, machines are divided into the following types:
At the right approach and manufacturing, homemade units turn out to be universal and are able to cope with all these tasks.
Basics initial stage, which must be taken into account in order to make a woodworking machine with your own hands.
Please note that installation of the machine will require the required amount of space. It is advisable to have a separate room for this so that all materials and equipment are at hand.
Before you begin preparing parts for assembly, you need to make accurate drawings. If you do not have experience in this area, you should seek the help of a specialist or find information on the Internet.
Parts that most often make up woodworking machines.
The future structure will be attached to it. They are often made of steel or cast iron, that is, the structure must be quite heavy and stable for the machine to rest securely on it. All parts are held together by welding, which is more durable.
Sometimes assembly is carried out using bolts, but such fasteners have the ability to become loose, so in such cases you will have to regularly check and tighten the structure. Often the bed is additionally reinforced with cement - in this case the workplace will be stationary. But there are also designs with a movable table.
Has three types:
A cutting mechanism is installed on the end of the shaft, and on the other side a drive in the form of a belt from the control unit. The shaft is located at the top of the work bed and is often 30 cm thick in circumference.
The part that will be directly responsible for wood processing. It varies depending on what operation needs to be performed. This happens sometimes circular knife, milling cutter, grinding or emery wheel, jigsaw knife.
The mechanism of operation of the machine, that is, the engine. He is responsible for work, adjusting the rotation speed of working parts. Special requirements are imposed on it: the power must be 1.5–3 kW, and the speed must be 1.5–2.5 thousand revolutions. The engine is mounted below the workbench.
This is a moving bar, with the help of which the width and thickness of the parts to be cut are adjusted; manipulation helps to avoid wasting time on additional markings and creates a certain safety when holding wooden workpieces. Installed on top part bed with the ability to move and securely fasten.
A homemade woodworking machine requires the introduction of several parts, with the help of which the mechanism can repeat the maneuvers of an industrial unit. There are additional parts included in the housing.
Electrical wiring - the electrical power must be 380 V. The wiring must be done correctly, in compliance with all safety standards. The wires are secured so that there is no chance of getting into the engine or cutting mechanisms.
Protective covers are installed on all dangerous parts of the machine and are designed to protect body parts from damage if parts accidentally slip during processing. Most often they are made of tin or textolite.
The main problem that often arises during manufacturing is the components. A multifunctional machine requires attention and scrupulousness from the master. Experts in this field advise purchasing factory-made mechanisms and parts. They are made of tool steel and are quite durable and reliable in operation.
If it is not possible to order factory products, you should use improvised means, for example, a mechanism from a chainsaw or circular saw. In this case, it is worth considering that the parts will not be as durable, and homemade units will not have a high degree of safety.
After all the details and necessary materials Having prepared and the machine assembly diagrams are clear, we need to proceed directly to the process itself. According to the drawings, first the frame is assembled and strengthened. Then the motor and rotor are attached.
Any woodworking machine can help the owner in everyday life. Pre-assembled and correctly machined parts will make assembly very quick. After installing all necessary structures, it is necessary to check the starting mechanism and engine operation. And only after this it is necessary to install the necessary cutting part and try the machine in operation.
If all the points were observed with precision and all the component parts were manufactured and secured correctly, then homemade woodworking machines will not be inferior in functionality to factory ones. All that remains is to follow safety precautions and work on the machine for your own pleasure.
The machine uses a purchased gasoline engine UD2-M-1, a three-phase electric motor (2.2 kW at 1500 rpm) and a purchased jointing shaft.
Since the most popular ones are on sale different designs jointing shafts (with various sizes), the dimensions of the shaft used are not given. The same remark should be made regarding the nodes used when creating the machine. The author, an electrician by profession, works in an organization servicing an agricultural complex. For this reason, for example, handles from electric switches are used in the machine.
A noticeable structural difference between this woodworking machine and industrial designs is that the main working plane (table) is not made as usual - from a massive steel plate (10 mm thick or more), but is a prefabricated structure welded from corners and sheet metal (relatively thin ) coatings.
The main idea of the layout was to place the main components so that working on the machine was safe and convenient. For example, “safety bars” protect rotating machine parts from workpieces falling off tables. And the belt drive is hidden inside the body.
The overall dimensions of the machine depend on: - the purchased shaft and the size of the engines. The basis of the design of the machine (Fig. 1) is a frame welded from 50x50 mm corners. For ease of dismantling the gas engine, the left part of the frame is made removable and secured with M10 bolts.
Rice. 1 Universal woodworking machine with electric and petrol engines
The belt drive (Fig. 2) ensures operation with an electric drive and a gasoline engine. The tensioner allows the use of belts of different lengths: from 1000 to 1400 mm.
Rice. 2. Belt transmission scheme for gear shifting of electric and gasoline engines.
The main workflow when working on a machine is planing (jointing). The design of the corresponding part of the machine is shown in Fig. 3. Here I must thank P. Kostitsyn (Sam magazine No. 2, 1995) for his idea, implemented during the modernization of the UBDN-1 machine.
Rice. 3 Design of a planing (jointing) machine
When working on a circular saw, the author noticed a great danger of the saw blade jumping off, especially when the blade hits metal parts. Therefore, in the design of the machine, special attention is paid to lining the window (the groove for the circular disk) with plywood overlays (Fig. 4).
Rice. 4. Design of a saw (circular) table.
Installation of a table on four legs-stands includes telescopic joints of the legs. But we must keep in mind that vibrations during machine operation make screw clamps not reliable enough. Therefore, it was necessary to supplement this device with locking pins.
The possibility of adjustment displacement of the ruler is provided by guides welded to it, made of 016 mm rods.
To facilitate milling, a pressure roller is provided, without which it is difficult to manually feed the workpiece to the cutter.
The drilling and milling device (Fig. 5) provides fastening of the workpieces and their movement relative to the tool. However, when operating the entire assembly, the clamping force of the parts with a common clamp makes it difficult to move them along the transverse slide. Apparently, it is better to mount the workpieces directly on the table. Naturally, when the parts are not processed on the table, the clamp should not be removed. Keep the same thing in mind when equipping the table: a stop used when processing small parts, when processing great details remove
The machine used a gas tank from a Riga moped. However, the gasoline reserve in it (8 liters) is not enough. It is better to use a larger tank, placing it next to the machine. I would like to draw your attention to the modification of the exhaust pipes from the gasoline engine to the muffler. To distance the hot muffler from the machine parts, I had to make an extension from pieces of 01" pipe using bent adapters.
When preparing sections metal profiles I used a hacksaw: this ensures a clean cut.
After manufacturing, the nodes should be painted. This should not be neglected: paint not only protects against corrosion and gives the machine an elegant look, it also significantly reduces the noise from the machine.
Now about the operating procedure on the machine. First of all, the belt drive is charged to the selected type of drive: from an electric motor or from a gasoline engine. The electric motor is connected in a delta circuit for operation in a single-phase network. Therefore, it is run through capacitors. When starting, the load must be removed. To do this, the tensioner is loosened (belt tension is reduced) so that the drive pulley in the belt slips. After some unwinding, use a ratchet to tighten the belt. The working shaft gradually unwinds. Start gasoline engine also carried out with gradual loading.
To select quarters (for example, in the manufacture of decorative strips for finishing work), cutters with a small cutting teeth height - up to 5 mm - are used. The rotation speed of the cutter is about 3000 rpm. To perform this work, first install an additional ruler on the saw table. The stoppers are removed from the guide posts to protect the table from arbitrary lowering. Then loosen the tightening nuts securing the position of the metal tables relative to the saw table frame. Now these tables can be moved apart to the approximate radius of the cutter (with the cutter and shaft in the uppermost position). Further weaken clamping device lifting rod until the rod can be turned (tightly). This makes it possible to unscrew the screws that secure the table posts (in this case, the lifting pins of the lift must be placed under the posts). The working surfaces of both metal tables are brought into the same plane, and the table is gradually lowered until the cutter is set to the required height. In this form, fix the lift rod and clamp the wings. This completes the installation of the table. All that remains is to fix the sliding tables in the desired position (the optimal position is found by turning the shaft with cutters).
To select a quarter, you can also install a small-diameter circular saw and, without removing the stoppers or touching the fastening of the metal tables, use a lift to adjust the height of the table so that the saw blade provides the required cutting depth. In this position, the table is fixed with lambs. In this case, the small ruler is not needed and is removed.
The need for a unit for drilling and milling end work arose as a need to mechanize the processing of building parts made of wood. At the end of the shaft we had to make a slot for a Morse taper (for installing drills).
There are two ways to implement the fastening device of the workpiece. The first one is generally accepted. This is a creation simple table, in which the workpiece is fed onto the tool manually. In this case, you only need to install (adjust) the table height. The second direction is a coordinate device with mechanical feed. It was made by me in the described machine.
I independently designed the woodworking machine presented to the readers of the site, manufactured it with my own hands and now successfully use it when building a house on my site. I am convinced how successful the design turned out to be: compact, technologically advanced, and, I think, quite suitable for its “replication.” The machine is so simple that extremely detailed detailing for its manufacture is unlikely to be required. All fastening points are freely accessible here. So, if desired, the structure can be easily disassembled and, transported in the trunk of a car, assembled in a new place in about thirty minutes.
The proposed version of a universal woodworking machine is with load-bearing elements made of steel angle and sheet steel. Although I know: it will not be difficult for an experienced DIYer to find a suitable replacement for these materials from what is at hand. Of course, with maximum use technical solutions, ensuring compactness and manufacturability of assembly and disassembly.
Take, for example, welded assemblies and parts. There are not many of them. First of all, this is a base support made of steel angle 50x50 mm. Then there is a frame for installing L-shaped table posts and bearing units of the driven shaft with the working parts of the machine. It is made from steel angle 60x60 mm. Welding work will also be required when rigidly fixing the bushings of the L-shaped racks to the table top, making a limit ruler and a special rotating platform for the electric motor.
The latter deserves special mention. It is welded from pieces of steel angle 40x40 mm and a rod, the ends of which are cut internal thread M12. The rod serves as the rotating axis of the platform, is inserted between the posts and secured on both sides with M12 bolts. The AIR100B4UZ asynchronous three-phase motor with a 100 mm double-groove pulley is installed on the platform using four bolts with Grover nuts and washers.
Tension in the V-belt drive is carried out by twisting the wing on a rod passing through the hole in the platform, followed by locking.
The base support, frame and four 40x40mm angle steel posts, fastened together with M20 bolts, form the frame. Screwed onto it are chutes for sawdust and shavings made of sheet aluminum, as well as other components and parts, including equipment for starting and controlling the electric motor.
The table cover consists of two identical 6-mm steel plates, fastened together by spars using M12 countersunk screws and locknuts. As already noted, four bushings are welded to the lower surface of the cover, in which L-shaped posts can rotate. As for the limiter ruler, it is mounted on the guides using compound clamps and M8 screws.
A few words about the engine. Since the machine uses a three-phase AIR100B4UZ (3 kW, 1410 rpm), to include it in single-phase network I had to introduce phase-shifting capacitors for starting and running. And for the most efficient use, provide a connection of the windings either in a star or in a delta. The first of these modes (with symbol“U”) is recommended for use when sawing and planing with reduced load (when the boards are not too thick). The “Start” button is pressed here if BA1 is disabled, BA2 is enabled, and BAZ is in the “U” position. In this case, the magnetic starter will work and, by blocking BV1, will ensure a reliable supply of voltage to the motor windings.
The mode with the symbol “D” is work with increased power. They switch to it after the electric motor, having thoroughly accelerated, reaches the required speed in the “U” mode. Then boldly increase the capacity of the phase-shifting capacitor by additionally connecting another 100 μF using BA1. And only then, avoiding strong starting currents, switch the windings to “triangle”, moving the BAZ to position “D”.
Stopping the engine is easy in any of the modes. To do this, just click on the “Stop” button. Then the supply voltage to the coil winding of the magnetic starter will immediately stop, and it will de-energize the electric motor.
As for the BA4 “Reverse” switch, as practice has shown, it does not need to be installed. And the required direction of rotation is achieved in this case during commissioning works by “switching the ends” of one of the windings.
And one more note regarding the peculiarities of the functioning of the scheme in question. After stopping the electric motor, both capacitors must be discharged. To do this, you just need... turn on BA1 and BA2.
The time has come to consider the operating features of the machine itself as a whole. It is better to do this by referring to the illustrations.
First of all, adjusting the cutting height, as well as the thickness of chip removal. The required results are achieved here... by turning the nuts. Special, adjusting, with subsequent fixation with a lower nut.
Changing the inclination of the table (when sawing at an angle other than straight) is carried out by simply raising (or lowering) the racks (on the opposite side of the saw blade) to the required height. Optimal shaft rotation speeds (1500 rpm for sawing and approximately 3500 rpm for planing source material) is achieved by appropriately selecting the diameters of the driving and driven pulleys.
Other machine capabilities? They are directly dependent on which tool is on the working shaft. For example, using various cutters, you can successfully select grooves and quarters. By replacing the saw blade with a cutting wheel, we get a reliable mechanical metal cutter. And with the installation of emery, a machine for sharpening tools.
But all this requires caution. And, of course, the strictest, strict adherence to safety regulations. In particular, when installing the shaft on the bed frame, it must be firmly secured without distortion. By first tightening the bolts on one support, make sure that the other does not rise above the frame and is not excessively pressed against it. Then you need to take the same precaution when tightening the bolts on the second support. Correct the distortion immediately by placing metal spacers under the supports. The bearings must be filled with refractory grease. Make sure that sawdust and shavings do not get into them under any circumstances.
You should treat the plane with no less care. The knives of this working body must be securely bolted. It is worth recalling that when the plane is not in use, it must be covered with a special metal lid (not shown in the figure).
In order to avoid any surprises, the “circular” fastening nuts must certainly be with Grover’s washers, and the rest threaded connections It doesn't hurt to have proper tightening. Before operating the machine, you should check how well everything is secured. Make sure that the V-belt drive is reliable by turning the shaft itself several times by the drive belt. The latter should rotate easily, without jamming. And only then can you start working.
