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» The roof is made of overlapping planks. Wooden roofing: manufacturing features and technology for laying wood roofing. Board roofing

The roof is made of overlapping planks. Wooden roofing: manufacturing features and technology for laying wood roofing. Board roofing

The plank roof is classic version pitched roof, made of boards that are laid in several rows perpendicular to the ridge. Typically, pine boards up to 30 mm thick are used for installation.

The bottom row of such a roof must be laid so that the bulge, which is formed by the annual rings, is directed upward. At the same time, the bottom row is laid in reverse - with the convex side down. On the main buildings, plank roofs are laid in two continuous layers, on secondary buildings - in staggered layers.

The boards that will be used for the bottom row are planed along both edges, as well as on the top side. The core of the lower boards is laid down, and the core of the upper ones is laid up. The seams of the continuous covering of the bottom layer of boards overlap the top row.

For such a roof, as mentioned above, boards up to 30 mm thick are used. They are laid at a distance of 60 cm. The boards are planed in such a way that grooves are formed on top of them to drain water.


The material is fixed on a lathing made of beams with a cross-section of 50*50 mm or 60*60 mm. You can also use plates or hewn poles with a thickness of 60-70 mm. The boards are nailed to the rafters with nails in increments of 50-60 cm.

Laying boards

Board roofs are laid both transversely and longitudinally. Longitudinal masonry is more practical and common.

It is possible to lay boards across the slope as follows:

  • End to end, in 2 layers. With this type of installation, the joint that is formed between the boards of the top row should fall in the middle of the board of the bottom row.
  • One layer. In this case, flashings are formed. With this method of laying, the bottom layer is made continuous, and the boards that are laid on top overlap the base by 4-5 cm.
  • With gaps. The bottom layer is laid completely, and the top layer with small gaps of 5 cm.


The top boards are secured to the sheathing with two nails at each intersection.

In the case of transverse laying, it must be remembered that it is used for temporary buildings, and therefore there is no need to arrange lathing. When laid in this way, the boards of the top row overlap the bottom ones by 5 cm. Each intersection is fixed with a nail.

This kind of roofing is often used in forested areas. Her distinctive features is colorful, easy and quick to install.

Features of an aspen shingle roof, detailed in the video:

The angle of inclination of the slopes of such a roof ranges from 28-45 degrees. Board roofs can be:

  • two-layer;
  • three-layer;
  • four-layer.

As mentioned above, when laying two layers, the boards of the top row overlap the bottom by half. With three layers, the next row should be overlapped by two-thirds of the length. And if the four-layer method is used, then three-quarters. The correctness of the rows is checked using a rack. The ridge is made from two boards nailed on top of the roof covering.


This wooden roof is used for village-type houses, temporary residential and storage buildings. To prevent cracking of the wood, the lower boards are nailed with one nail in the center, while the upper ones are fixed with two - along the edges. It is better to use galvanized nails.


A plank roof is a very light and quickly erected structure. Due to its characteristics (wood swells and dries out under the influence of moisture and sun), such a roof will require frequent repairs. But it, in turn, is distinguished by its simplicity. It is enough to just replace a few roof elements. In case of education narrow cracks, they are sealed with wooden slats.

To organize such a roof, smooth wood is used, without knots and sapwood. The length of the boards should be equal to length stingray

Is it possible to install a wooden roof with your own hands? We’ll tell you later in the article how to build it and how long it will last.

Construction of a wooden roof

When both the walls and the roof of a building are made of the same material, the appearance of such a building is unique.

Wood is one of the oldest building materials that humanity began to use; it is not for nothing that one of the very first roofing coverings was made of wood. Thousands of years have passed since then, and people not only have not stopped actively using wood for roofing, on the contrary, Lately, began to use it more and more often. During this time, however, do-it-yourself wooden roofs have turned from the simplest and most inexpensive types of roofing into quite expensive and complex types of roofing. The only thing that has not changed is the statement that a roofing deck, built in accordance with modern roofing requirements and using modern materials, will last for tens (and sometimes hundreds) of years, and will make the house stand out with its original appearance.

For arranging a wooden roof the following is used:

  1. Shingles - a thin, uncalibrated board, split from a whole tree trunk - alder, spruce or aspen.
  2. Tes are coniferous edged boards, on the edges of which a selection is sometimes made.
  3. Shingles are sawn small boards with side joints (mortise-tenon type).
  4. Shindel - board irregular shape, small, chipped, sometimes called “wood shingles.”
  5. Chips are the same planks as shingles, but shorter.
  6. Ploughshare - reminiscent of a shindle, but with more curved planks (pyramidal or blade-shaped), the lower cut is sometimes figured.

It is important to note that wooden roofs are only available with slopes with a slope ranging from 18 to 90%. And the greater the slope, the longer the service life of the roof, but also the greater the consumption of wood.

How to make a wooden roof with your own hands

A wooden roof can be erected with your own hands from different types wooden materials. However, all these materials differ significantly, and most of them allow the possibility of using several options truss structure roofs.


The following types of wooden roofs are available: 3 options for roofing with planks - overlapped, staggered, overlapped in 2 layers, roofs made of shingles and wood chips.

A shingle roof is one of the most difficult wooden roofs to construct with your own hands; without sufficient experience in the construction of such roofs, it is not worth trying to install it.

This covering consists of boards 40-70x10-15 cm, which are most often split by hand, and less often sawed.

The latter type of shingle has a rough surface that absorbs moisture well (more intensely than chipped shingles). Split shingles retain the entire structure of wood fibers well.

For a shingle board, one of the longitudinal, longer sides is cut under a wedge with a thickness of 0.3-0.5 cm, and on the other side, the thickness of which is 1.0-1.2 cm, a groove is made with a wedge 1.0 cm deep. 1.2 cm. At the beginning of the wedge, the width of the plank is 0.5 cm, and narrows towards the end to 0.3 mm.

Shingles are made from different types of wood - coniferous, aspen or oak. The shingle roof covering is laid on top of sheathing made from 4x4, 5x5 cm beams, poles or on a solid plank flooring.

The pitch of the sheathing elements is equal to 1/3 of the length of the shingle boards. In shingle rows, the grooves are horizontally turned to one side, and the narrow part of the shingle board fits into the groove of the adjacent shingle.

After laying in place, the edge of each shingle is nailed to the sheathing.

For some types of wood materials, different nails are used: copper - for wooden elements made of cedar or larch, since they best match them in color, for all other types of wood - galvanized.

Shingles are placed on the roof of outbuildings, gables of any roof or gazebos - in 2 layers, on the roofs of residential buildings - in 3 rows, and very rarely, to increase reliability - in 4 layers.

Laying of planks in layers is carried out in such a way that each subsequent row covers 1/2 of the previous one - with 2 layers, 2/3 - with 3 layers, and ¾ - with 4 layers.

Top part shingles nailed to the sheathing beams are slightly affected, thereby reducing the thickness roofing. The rows are placed staggered when the edge of the row shingles at the top is laid to the middle of the row shingles at the bottom.

Concave roofing joints (or valleys) are laid in the form of a fan; for this, the shingles on the narrow side are reduced towards the bottom by the required angle so that the board is trapezoidal.

Before installation, the shingles undergo antiseptic treatment and, of course, impregnation with a fire-retardant compound (fire retardant).

Shindle and ploughshare roofs are constructed similarly to shingle roofs. The difference between both types of roofs covered with your own hands is that the elements are shorter - 20-40 cm, so under them you need to make a smaller pitch of the sheathing beams.

There are no cutouts, cones or grooves on the sidewalls of the elements of these types of roofing, but they are placed end-to-end. However, the laying is not done tightly; there is a gap between the planks in the rows horizontally - about 0.3-0.5 cm. This is done so that when the coating gets wet and swells, it does not warp the roof.

When laid in this way, roofing tiles swell as humidity increases, closing all openings and gaps. Drying out wooden elements compress, again increasing the gaps, which provide excellent ventilation of the attic space.

It is important to consider that best wood for any elements of a wooden roof it is larch. It has a high density, contains a lot of resin, does not rot, and has a beautiful woody structure. And most importantly, it is quite cheap.

Covering the roof with wood chips and shingles

Installation roofing elements coverings made of chips and shingles are carried out overlapping, in rows - both horizontally and vertically. Most often, such roofing coverings are laid in 3 or 4 layers.


The laying of shingles is carried out according to a scheme similar to the installation of shingle roofing: a 3-layer roof is 2/3 of the length of the shingles, and a 4-layer roof is 3/4. The shingle boards in the rows overlap the neighboring ones by 2.5-3.0 cm. The next row is placed in such a way that in the horizontal plane the middle of the top element covers the junction of the 2 lower ones.

All shingle boards are secured with a galvanized nail (size 7x0.15 cm). The roof ridge is covered with a plank corner.

Installation of a chipped roofing covering is similar to the installation of a roof made of shingles, but the length of the tiles is shorter: for shingles 40 cm - 1 meter, 9-13 cm wide and no more than 0.5 cm thick. Chips are slightly smaller in size: length 40.0 -50.0 cm, width – 7.0-12 cm and thickness 0.3 cm.

Therefore, under the chips you need a sheathing with a smaller beam spacing than for shingles - every 15 cm, while for shingles it can be 30 cm. Most often, for this type of roofing, a continuous flooring is laid instead of sheathing.

Shreds and wood chips are some of the easiest coverings for arranging a wooden roof with your own hands, so you can build a sheathing for them from bars with a cross-section of 4x4 cm.

Board roof

One of the easiest and cheapest wooden roofs to build with your own hands from all other wooden roofing coverings is plank roofing. However, there is also back side– the service life of this roof is the shortest.

Previously, shingle roofing boards were hewn out by hand, by splitting them along the entire length of an entire tree trunk. The fracture, in this case, occurred along the wood fibers, which made it possible to preserve all the properties wood material. Therefore, such roofing lasted for a hundred years and even more. One should not expect such longevity from modern sawn boards, since the natural structure of the wood is disrupted during sawing. After this treatment, it is less resistant to various weather conditions.


The board roofing covering is laid either longitudinally (the elements are mounted parallel to the direction of the pitched plane) or transversely (the boards are placed parallel to the ridge).

The transverse laying method is simple and is used only for temporary buildings. The planks are laid from bottom to top directly on the logs, with any subsequent row covering the previous one by 5 cm. The plank board is attached to each joist with one nail.

Longitudinal installation has 3 installation options:

  • back to back in 2 layers - the boards are placed with the top row offset in relation to the row below by half a board, with a distance (for drying) between the boards in the rows of 0.5 cm;
  • along the pitched plane staggered - a row of boards at the bottom is placed with a 0.5 cm gap between the boards, and the top row covers the adjacent boards by 0.5 cm
  • with the bottom row covered with flashing - rows of boards from the bottom of the roof are placed continuously, and the gaps are closed with less wide boards, and also overlap the boards of the lower layer by 5 cm.

In any of the 3 options for longitudinal laying of the boards, the top row of boards is nailed to the sheathing with 2 nails. The distance between the sheathing elements is 60-80 cm. The thickness of the planks is 1.9-2.5 cm, the beams are 6x6 cm.

Most often, steam and waterproofing are not placed under a wooden roof, since wooden structures do not form condensation in the attic due to reduced thermal conductivity, however, preventing the free ventilation of the coating can quickly ruin it.

It is important that over thousands of years humanity has improved its skills in the construction various types roofs, and wooden roofs are popular, despite the emergence of new roofing materials.

Wood - universal natural construction material. Not only are the walls and floors of the house made from it, but it is also used as roofing. Although many different building materials have appeared, natural wood remains a leader when choosing materials for building a house. Thanks to new design solutions roofs made of natural wood not only cope well with their functional responsibilities, but also look beautiful, unusual and expensive.

Features of a wooden roof

The modern construction industry is constantly introducing new materials, but natural wood has remained popular and in demand for many years. Our ancestors used it not only to build houses, but also to cover roofs.

Nowadays, wooden roofing has again gained wide popularity. It provides excellent moisture and heat protection for the house, making it stand out from other buildings. The presence of a wooden roof indicates the wealth and refined taste of the owner of the house.

Wooden roof provides reliable moisture and heat protection for the home, and also has a beautiful appearance

Advantages and disadvantages

If we compare wooden roofing with modern materials, it has the following advantages over them:

  • versatility. It can be mounted on any buildings ( residential buildings, utility rooms, decorative houses etc.) and fit on any type of roof. The wooden roof perfectly follows all the curves;

    Wooden roofing perfectly follows all the curves of the roof

  • long service life. If high-quality material is used and it was laid correctly, then the service life of the wooden covering is 50 years or more;
  • beautiful appearance. A house with such a roof will always stand out against the background of other buildings;
  • reliability of fixation. Wooden roofing perfectly resists gusts of wind and tolerates both hot and frosty weather;
  • good sound insulation. In a house with such a roof the sound of rain will not be heard;
  • does not require the creation of a serious vapor and moisture insulation system. This is due to the fact that condensation does not accumulate under natural wood;
  • does not require an additional ventilation system. The wooden covering itself provides the necessary air circulation. It is enough to leave holes under the ridge and in the area of ​​overhangs;
  • does not accumulate static electricity;
  • The relatively light weight of a wooden roof allows you to create simple rafter systems for it. There is also no need to strengthen the walls and foundation of the building;
  • There is no need to use special equipment for transportation. If you wish, you can deliver and unload such roofing material yourself;
  • does not require the use of additional elements;

    The bends and joints of a wooden roof are made from the same elements as the rest of the roof

  • convenient to carry out repairs. If individual sections are damaged, they can be easily replaced without the need to completely dismantle the entire roof.

Despite so many advantages, wooden roofing also has some disadvantages:

  • complexity of manufacturing roofing material;
  • high price;
  • relatively low fire safety.

Video: how shingles were made before

Materials for wooden roofing

For the manufacture of wooden roofs, hard types of wood are used, most often these are:

  • cedar;
  • larch;
  • aspen;

This is due to the fact that they resist rotting well. If in the old days aspen was usually used, now most often such covering is made from larch. It contains resins that protect the roofing material well from mold, mildew and insects. In addition, larch can smooth out temperature changes well, so the house will be warm in winter and cool in summer.

To create a wooden roof modern industry offers the following materials:

  1. Tes. It is designed in the form unedged boards, on the sides of which there are grooves for water drainage. The plank is obtained by sawing logs in the longitudinal direction. The length of such roofing material can be from 4 to 6.5 m, the width is about 10–16 cm, and the thickness is 19–25 mm. Among the advantages of the plank, one should note ease of installation, low cost, and good maintainability. Roofing material Bad quality Over time, it can dry out, so gaps will form between the boards. If you do everything correctly and use high-quality material from pine or larch, then such a roof will not leak for at least 20 years.

    The roof made of planks looks elegant and strict

  2. Ploughshare. It consists of hand-planed elements in the form of spade-shaped tiles. The edges of the parts can be rounded, pointed or shaped. The ploughshare is usually made from aspen, harvested in the spring, when it contains a lot of sap. After drying, the material acquires very high strength and a beautiful silver tint. Hand made ploughshare affects its cost, so it is still rarely used in private construction. It is usually used to cover churches. In the sun, such domes shine beautifully and seem to be covered with silver.

    The ploughshare is usually made from aspen, which, after drying, acquires very high strength and a beautiful silver color.

  3. Shingles. With this roofing material you can cover your roof quickly and easily. To create modern shingles, linden, larch, pine, and beech are used. To make high-quality shingles, you need to use only smooth round timber that has no knots. The blanks are split into pieces, after which plates 3–8 mm thick are made. First the shingles have light color, but over time it darkens and acquires a silvery tint. Roofing shingles can be chipped, sawn or mosaic.

    Freshly laid shingles have the light color of natural wood.

  4. Shingle. This board is from 50 to 70 cm long. Each element is sharpened on one edge, and has a thickening and a groove on the other. Depending on the manufacturing method, this material can also be chipped or sawn. This type of wooden roofing is most often used in the construction of residential buildings. Making split shingles is more labor-intensive, which is why its price is higher. Usually shingles are made from larch; pine is used very rarely.

    The shingles are connected to each other using a lock in the thickened part, made in the form of a groove for the pointed edge of the adjacent plate

  5. Schindel. This material has a second name - wood shingles. It has soft shapes. Shindel can be used not only as a roofing material, but also for cladding the facades of a house. Beech, spruce or larch are usually used to make it. The shape of its elements can be rectangular or conical. Length is 20–80 cm, width is 6–25 cm.

    The shingle roof gives the house the charm of antiquity and makes you want to think about the past while contemplating the present.

  6. Birch bark. This is the top layer of birch bark. The most simple option To create such a roof is to use a ramp of poles, between which layers of birch bark are laid. To prevent the poles from being blown away, they can be pressed down with logs that are connected along the facade in the form of a frame. Instead of logs, turf can be used to fix birch bark, the thickness of which should be up to 8 cm. To create such a roof, you need to lay at least 6 layers of birch bark, sometimes their number can reach 16.

    To create a roof, you need to lay at least 6 layers of birch bark, in some cases their number can reach 16

  7. Unedged boards. In this case, the roofing material is placed across the rafters. Due to the fact that the upper board overlaps the lower one, high water resistance of the roof is achieved. Such roofs used to be common in America, which is why they are also called “American”.

    When creating a roof from unedged boards, the roofing material is usually placed across the rafters

Video: how to make a wooden roof

Wood is a breathable material, so the presence of insulation will interfere with it. Our ancestors thought so and some modern masters adhere to this. Nowadays, houses usually do not have stoves that are constantly heated, so the construction of a wooden roof is slightly different from how it was done in the old days.

Nowadays they usually make an attic residential roof, so you can’t do without insulation here. If thermal insulation is installed, then it is imperative to use vapor and waterproofing protection.

A modern wooden roof consists of the following elements:


Sequence of installation of a wooden roof

In order to independently install wooden roofing material, you need to prepare the following tools:


Elements of a wooden roof

In order to lay a wooden roof, you first need to prepare the base. The composition of a wooden roof includes the following elements:

  • rafter leg. This is the main load-bearing element, so its choice is not made by eye, but after certain calculations. Rafters must support more than just weight roofing pie, but also be designed for snow and wind loads. Rafters are mainly made from boards with a section of 5x15 cm and are installed in increments of 90–150 cm. To obtain a more powerful rafter leg, two boards can be joined together;

    The rafter leg is the main load-bearing element roofs

  • tightening - an element that does not allow the rafters to move apart and provides additional support for them. Since wood works better in tension than in bending, the tightening cross-section may be smaller than that of the rafters;

    The tightening does not allow the rafters to move apart and provides additional support for them

  • struts - supports that support rafters. The presence of these elements allows you to make a roof with large spans. In addition, the installation of struts allows the use of rafter legs of a smaller cross-section;

    The brace is a support that supports the rafter leg

  • Mauerlat - a beam connecting the roof and wall of the house. This element is fixed to the wall, and the rafters are attached to it. The cross-section of the Mauerlat is usually 10x10 cm;

    The Mauerlat is fixed to the walls of the house, and the rafters are already attached to it

  • headstock - a vertical post that serves as a support for the rafters;

    The headstock is a vertical post that serves as a support for the rafters

  • purlin - an element that is placed parallel to the ridge and attached to the rafters. If the installation step of the rafter legs does not exceed 180 cm, purlins do not need to be used;

    The side girder increases the rigidity of the roof frame

  • sheathing - a layer that is attached to purlins or rafters, and roofing material is mounted on it.

Mounting points

The basis of the roof is the rafter system. Its main part is the supporting nodes:

  • connection of rafters with roof elements or mauerlat;
  • junction points of the rafters.

Creating a rigid node occurs in this way:


The presence of a sliding knot allows the rafter legs to move a little. This allows you to protect the roof from destruction that can occur during shrinkage wooden house. When creating a sliding knot, it must be strong ridge beam, since it ensures the rigidity of the entire structure.

The process of creating a sliding knot:


Calculation of a wooden roof

Most manufacturers supply wooden roofing in packs that are designed to cover 1 m2 of roof. They also have diagrams and tables that allow you to quickly and accurately make calculations required material. For defects and errors during work, a margin of 5–6% must be added.

When making the material yourself, the required quantity can be calculated based on the dimensions of the roof. We will show how to do this using the example of a gable roof measuring 4x7 m, which needs to be covered with shingles made from logs.

  1. Manufacturing of shingles. If the length of the log is 4 m, then it is divided into 10 equal parts of 40 cm each and cut into logs. From each, no more than 4 boards are made, the width of which is about 15 cm. There is no need for the elements to be the same size.
  2. Calculation of the number of shingles in one row. For each meter of roof in the longitudinal direction, 100 / 15 ≈ 7 plates are laid, therefore, one row will require 7 * 7 = 49 plates.
  3. Calculation of the number of rows. If the roof is covered with three layers, the vertical overlap is made in 1/3 of the plate, therefore, its working length will be 40 * 2 / 3 ≈ 27 cm. This means that from the ridge to the eaves you need to lay 400 / 27 ≈ 15 rows.
  4. Calculation of the total number of plates to cover two slopes in one layer: 15 * 49 * 2 = 1470 pcs.
  5. Determination of the total need for a three-layer coating: 1470 * 3 = 4,410 pcs. Taking into account the 5% margin, it is necessary to produce 4,410 * 1.05 = 4,630 elements.

To lay a wooden roof, the angle of the roof slope should not exceed 75° and not be less than 12–19°.

Laying scheme

The installation scheme will depend on the type of wooden roof chosen:


The wooden roof is laid in the following order:

  1. A continuous sheathing of boards is mounted on the rafters.
  2. Lay a vapor barrier. The strips should overlap each other by 10–15 cm, the joints are taped with tape.

    The vapor barrier film is fixed with a stapler, and the joints are treated with adhesive tape

  3. The insulation is attached. It is needed when it is planned to create a residential attic. If attic space non-residential - thermal insulation material you don't have to put it in.
  4. Fix the windproof film.

    The windproof film is fixed using a counter-lattice

  5. Do step-by-step lathing, corresponding in size to the roofing material used.

    The pitch of the sheathing must correspond to the roofing material used

  6. The first row of roofing is laid. Be sure to make a cornice overhang.
  7. The installation of the following rows is carried out so that they are offset and overlap the joints of the lower tiers.

    The end boards must be flush with the roofing material.

It is best to fix roofing elements with copper nails, as they harmonize well with natural wood.

The peculiarity of a wooden roof is that it is well ventilated. At high humidity wooden elements swell and provide good waterproofing. When the weather is dry, they move apart and provide high-quality ventilation.

Video: installation of shingles

Installation errors

If you decide to build the roof of your house yourself and are doing it for the first time, familiarize yourself with the most common mistakes and try to avoid them during installation work:

  • incorrectly calculated and selected material. Elements rafter system must be of appropriate cross-section, dry, and free from signs of damage by insects or rot;
  • big step between rafter legs. If in summer time the roof will function normally, but in winter it may not withstand snow loads;
  • uneven slope plane. It occurs when the rafters are not installed at the same height. Such installation significantly worsens the appearance of the roof and reduces the service life of the roofing;
  • rigid fastening of rafters on the roof of a new house. For three years a new wooden house shrinks. In this case, only sliding knots must be used, otherwise the rafter system will begin to collapse;
  • poorly secured mauerlat. When there are strong gusts of wind, it appears high probability roof displacement. In the worst case scenario, it could even be carried away;
  • absence of elements such as tightening and struts. This leads to the fact that the rafters begin to move apart;
  • laying the vapor and waterproofing film on the wrong side. Instead of keeping moisture out and releasing steam, films do the opposite. This leads to the accumulation of moisture in the thermal insulation layer and its destruction.

Operating rules

When using a wooden roof, usually no difficulties arise. If you care for it properly, the coating will last for 40–50 years or more.

Basic rules for using a wooden roof:


How to extend the life of a wooden roof

In order for a wooden roof to always look beautiful and delight you for many years, it must be properly cared for. Drying, which occurs as a result of wind and sun, is dangerous for natural wood. Loss of moisture negatively affects both the appearance of a wooden roof and its performance characteristics. As the wood dries, cracks may appear on the coating, which leads to a violation of its tightness.

Excess moisture also negatively affects the condition of a wooden roof. This defect can occur due to poor roof ventilation and lead to swelling of the elements and the appearance of installation defects.

To eliminate negative impacts on a wooden roof, special compounds must be used. With their help, you can prevent both drying out of wood and its rotting:


Fire protection for wooden roofing

Protecting wooden elements from fire is one of the most important tasks when creating a roof. You cannot save on this, since a fire can destroy not only the roofing material and the roof, but the entire house.

Since wood is a flammable material and can be damaged by mold, fungi and insects, it must be protected from the effects of these negative factors. To do this, all wooden elements that are used to create the roof must be treated with fire retardants (ХМХА-1110) and antiseptics (ХМ-11).

Depending on the type of fire retardants used, wood can withstand open fire for different times:

  • when treated with fire retardants normal action- no more than 30 minutes;
  • after coating with long-acting fire retardants - up to 2 hours.

To protect a wooden roof from fire, the following measures must be taken:

  • When applying fire-resistant mastic, gaps should not be allowed;
  • if insulation is used, then you should choose basalt wool, as it has higher fire safety compared to other materials;
  • usage roofing paint allows you to enhance the effects of fire retardants. When exposed to fire, it first protects the wooden elements, and after its destruction, fire-resistant mastic continues to perform these functions. Since the paint is opaque, this solution is suitable for all roof elements except the roofing material;
  • For metal fastenings special mastics are used. They prevent the metal from heating up too much during a fire and igniting the wood.

To fully protect a wooden roof, it is recommended to use fire retardants and antiseptics together.

Video: fire protection of wooden structures

Wooden roof repair

Problems with wood flooring usually arise in places where there has been stagnation of water or the elements do not fit tightly together. It is not recommended to make cuts or patches; it is best to completely replace damaged wooden elements, laying new ones in their place. If the rafter beam is damaged by rot, prepare the same one, with the appropriate dimensions and inserts, and then install it in place of the damaged part.

If the rafters are damaged, the entire roof may sag. In this case, you need to support it with racks and hold it with jacks, then install struts under the rafters and secure them with brackets. If the rafter leg has just begun to rot, it can be strengthened by installing overlays that are fixed on both sides of the rafters with bolts. The overlay must be at least twice the length of the rotted area.

You can strengthen the rafters by installing overlays, which are fixed on both sides with bolts

To avoid the need for repairs, it is necessary to periodically inspect both the roofing material and the rafter system. If a dull sound is heard while tapping the beams, this indicates internal damage; it is better to replace such an element immediately.

A board roof is a variant of a pitched roof, for the construction of which boards are used, laid perpendicular to the ridge in several rows.

The main material, as a rule, is pine boards, the thickness of which does not exceed 30 millimeters.

Wherein wooden boards planed so that there are grooves on top of them necessary for drainage of water.

A plank is an edged board that is made by longitudinally cutting a log, with further trimming of the edges until the same width is obtained along the entire building element.

Today, processing of edged lumber is carried out on a sawmill. For the construction of a plank roof, boards from coniferous tree. More cheap option made from pine. Larch material is the most durable and resistant to various external influences. But at the same time, this option is more expensive.

Some people advise processing edged lumber on only three sides before installing the roof. However, it must be planed on all sides. This is due, first of all, to the fact that the board must be treated with fire retardants and antiseptics before installation. Processing planed lumber is much more difficult.

If the plank roof is used as a temporary structure, then unplaned edged boards can be installed. The financial costs of such a structure will be significantly lower.

Advantages and disadvantages of a plank roof

A plank roof has the following advantages:

  • Wood is environmentally friendly pure material with low thermal conductivity. That's why interior spaces will not get very hot when exposed to sun rays during the summer months. And in winter, the premises will better retain heat;
  • The plank covering absorbs wind and rain noise well;
  • Laying such a roof is less labor-intensive;
  • The cost of a plank roof is lower than other roofing methods;
  • No special skills are needed to care for a plank roof;
  • A building with such a roof has an original appearance.

Tile roofing has the following disadvantages:

  • Heavy weight compared to other types of roofing, especially if the board is installed in two layers;
  • It is necessary to carry out deep treatment with fire retardants, since lumber is a fire hazard. It must be repeated every five years;
  • Lumber must be constantly treated with paint and bioprotection, since it is exposed to various atmospheric influences and bark beetles.

Choosing a shingle roofing material

For the construction of a plank roof, edged lumber from 19 to 25 millimeters is used. Optimal width edged boards is 150 – 200 millimeters.

Experts advise not to use material more than 200 millimeters wide, since the wood is subject to warping under the influence of rain, snow and sunlight.

On one side of the board, longitudinal tracks are made in the shape of grooves. Water will flow down them in the future. It should be noted that the upper boards are mounted with the core up, and the lower ones - with the core down. In this case, the tree becomes more resistant to various external influences.

The slope of a plank roof must be at least 28 degrees. This should be taken into account when calculating the length of the material. The maximum slope angle of the plank roof slopes is 45 degrees.

When planning the roof structure, it should be remembered that it is not advisable to lay roofing felt and other materials for waterproofing directly under the planked roofing boards.

When laying an under-roofing layer made of such material, it is necessary to provide a ventilation space between the board and the film of at least 50 millimeters.

Today, water vapor barrier films are used in construction for these purposes. The top layer of such films does not allow moisture to pass through, and inner layer, facing the attic, allows steam to pass through. On top layer the steam condenses into moisture and then flows down the film.

Methods for installing a plank roof

There are several ways to construct a roof from edged boards.

  1. Cross laying. The plank board is assembled across roof slope. First of all, install the bottom board. Next, the next roofing element is overlapped by 50 millimeters. This is how the entire roof covering is erected up to the ridge.
  2. Longitudinal laying.
  • The board is installed in one layer. In this case, the roofing material should be installed close to each other. The joints located on top are closed using flashings, which are wooden planks 20x50 millimeters;
  • The roof covering made of plank is installed in two layers. In the first option, the layer located below is laid end to end. And the top row of boards is mounted so that their middle covers the joining gap of the bottom row and thus protects the roof from leaks. In the second option, the bottom row of boards is laid at a distance of 50 millimeters from each other, and the top row of roofing material covers these gaps. This option is used to facilitate the design, as well as to save building materials.

Construction of a roof from planks

Before erecting a plank roof, you must stock up on the following materials:

  • A block for making lathing with a cross-section of 50×50 millimeters;
  • Water vapor barrier film;
  • Ridge board. With its help, the roof ridge is closed;
  • A strip of roofing felt laid under the ridge boards;
  • Metal gasket on the roof ridge. It is used to protect the seam located between the ridge boards from leakage.

The construction of a plank roof consists of the following stages:

  1. First of all, lay out the vapor barrier film on the rafter legs. It is secured using a stapler. Next, a block is installed along the joists.
  2. A sheathing is attached to the block over the water vapor barrier film. Its pitch should not exceed 600 millimeters.
  3. The board is installed in accordance with the selected installation option. Self-tapping screws are used to secure the plank board. The use of self-tapping screws as fasteners greatly simplifies dismantling the roof if necessary, and also firmly fastens the planks to the roof sheathing. The nails may not hold up if the boards begin to bend as they dry out.
  4. On final stage lay a strip of roofing felt on the roof ridge. A ridge board is fixed over this strip on both sides of the roof of the building. Next, lay a protective steel corner on top of the ridge board.

Video about the features of a plank roof:

The first thing a person sees when approaching a building is the roof. This part of the house plays a major role in the overall interior design and is designed to protect the entire building and its occupants from negative weather factors (wind, precipitation), from daily and seasonal temperature changes, from thermal and cosmic radiation, from harmful substances and noise deposited on the roof surface from the atmosphere (emissions from enterprises, exhaust gases).

A properly designed roof is fire resistant, not afraid of condensation and effectively withstands any load. To do this, it is very important to choose the roofing material and roof shape.

The most successful are half-hip and hip roofs with four slopes. And roofing materials include soft tiles, slate, euroslate or ondulin. Before starting the roof installation process, you should install the sheathing under the corrugated sheeting, carrying out all the steps according to the instructions, including attaching the rafters to the mauerlat and installing a chimney to remove combustion products.

The optimal roof is perfectly ventilated, it is well protected from noise, high temperatures and water, durable, resistant to mechanical damage, and has an attractive appearance.

Do-it-yourself roof of the house. Video

Today in construction there are several roofing options:
  1. Single-pitch.

Among its advantages are the possibility of saving on material and scaffolding, efficiency and ease of construction, and low weight.

Disadvantages: small attic size or lack thereof, not the most presentable appearance.

  1. Gable - more popular than single-slope.

Its obvious advantages are its relatively light weight (in comparison, for example, with a four-hipped one), a fairly large attic space, the possibility of arranging an attic under the roof, as well as an aesthetic, harmonious appearance. This type of roof is heated on both sides.

This roof does not have any particularly noticeable disadvantages. However, in comparison with a single-pitched one, it is less economical in terms of consumables and heavier. For gable roof a ridge and gutters are required to drain melt and rain water.

  1. Hip roof.

This type of roofing is not particularly popular, since its construction is a complex matter. It is almost impossible to carry out such a roof correctly on your own without special skills. Positive qualities This type of roofing is considered for its aesthetically attractive appearance and spacious attic space.

The inherent possibility of four-way heating significantly insulates the attic. Among the main disadvantages of this type, the most prominent are the heavy weight and, as mentioned above, the complexity of installation work.

  1. Combined roofing.

Most perfect choice for multi-level buildings or structures made in non-traditional rectangular shape. This roof looks original and fits harmoniously into almost any area.

The combined type is much easier to construct, since it can be built not entirely, but in separate sections. Initially, one slope of the terrace, which is located on the second floor, is covered, then a gable roof is erected over the bedrooms.

In addition, there are Sudeikin roofs, hipped roofs, which are four identical slopes in the shape of isosceles triangles, and others.

With all the variety of types of roofs, their construction is based on several main principles. Having grasped their essence, you can even the most complex roofing options build it yourself.

Building the roof of a house with your own hands is divided into several stages:

  1. Attaching the Mauerlat with your own hands.

This is nothing more than the foundation on which the bulk of the load is placed. The entire roof is built on it. Beams with a cross section of 15x15 cm are used. They are mounted parallel to the ridge. To increase the strength and stability of the roof in relation to adverse weather conditions, the Mauerlat beams are securely fastened, and this must be done even when laying the walls of the building. For this purpose, a strong thick rope is installed between bricks or masonry blocks at a distance of one meter. It is called wire rod.

The middle part of the wire should be reinforced in the brickwork, and the ends should be left free. Their length must be suitable for fastening the next beam. If plastering is planned, the outer end of the rope must be mounted in the solution. The mauerlat should retreat from the edge of the wall by at least 10 cm, taking into account the laying of a layer of roofing felt, as this will help protect the beams from destruction processes (rotting).
  1. Installing the frame yourself.

To ensure a sufficient level of roof strength, you need to take care of the frame. By frame we mean the rafters attached to the mauerlat. It must be taken into account that if the length of the beams exceeds 4.5 cm, then additional purlins will need to be installed. The most optimal size of beams is considered to be a section of 7x15 cm.

The rafters are attached to the mauerlat using a special cutout, which is fixed with 20 cm nails. They are hammered in as follows:

  • the first is driven strictly diagonally across the rafter;
  • the second - similar, but on the reverse side;
  • the third is nailed perpendicularly from above.

Thanks to this technology, the rafter is firmly attached and becomes motionless. The upper part of the beams, which overlap, are attracted to each other so that the edge of one of them overlaps the end of the parallel one. They are mounted using bolts and nails.

  1. Reinforcing the roof with your own hands.

In order to reduce the impact of the expansion force on the mauerlat and increase the strength and stability of the roof, the rafter legs should be mounted together using beams with a cross-section of 5x15 cm. They are called “crossbars”. Its size and the distance between the rafter beams that need to be connected are completely consistent with each other. Fastening is carried out using nails.

In addition, you need to take care of attaching this element to each rafter leg of the filly. This is a board with a cross-section of 50x100 cm. It is attached with screws and metal brackets to one leg of the rafter. The length is calculated very simply - add 50 cm to the length of the overhang. To avoid any difficulties, you need to take care of preparing the filly in advance. A cutout is made on a 15 cm wide board. It is used to attach it to the Mauerlat.

Also, do not forget that the rafters and boards meet exactly. It is best to complete all such work before the start of construction of the rafter system, as this greatly simplifies the process of assembling the structure. Additionally, the angle of inclination of the future roof is selected. A competent choice involves taking into account the specifics of the area. For example, in the presence of regular precipitation and a fairly cold climate, the most suitable inclination angle is considered to be from 40° to 45°.

Snow does not accumulate on such a roof, which makes it possible to avoid increasing the pressure on the ceiling. The distance between the rafter legs must be at least one meter. In dry and hot climates, the minimum angle of inclination can be 3 degrees.

In those areas where there are strong winds, the optimal angle is considered to be 20 degrees. To carry out an accurate calculation, you must use professional building regulations. Experts measure this value using an inclinometer. Before starting measurements, calculate the appropriate angle. Therefore, the formula is used: the magnitude of the angle of inclination is directly proportional to the height of the ridge, which is divided by the figure formed by dividing the length of the roof by 2.

  1. Do-it-yourself roof sheathing (video).

For the roofing it is necessary to make lathing. If your choice fell on tiles, the sheathing must be solid.

To get started, you will need solid wooden boards with a thickness of approximately 25 cm. Special attention should be ensured that there are no cracks or chips. Their length indicator should be equal to two spans of rafters, that is, two meters. The joints will be located purely on supports with a distance of 5 mm. The boards used to form the ridge must be placed at the closest distance. Fastening is done using nails (20 cm).

The type of roof will depend on the choice of lathing option. If you mean creating soft roll roofing, then the flooring must be continuous (whole). If the roof is metal or made of slate, the sheathing will be loose. If necessary, the flooring can be double, but in this case the first layer is laid in the standard order, and the second along the descent, that is, perpendicularly.

  1. Ventilation.

Naturally, one sheathing is not enough to cover the roof. It is also necessary to think about maintaining its integrity during operation. In order for the tiles to be ventilated, gaps should be left in the sheathing, 2 or 3 ventilation channels on each side. They should start at the bottom of the overhang and end above (if possible). The width is about five centimeters. An outlet for the hood is mounted at the top, which makes it possible to remove air.

  1. Installing the lining layer and drips with your own hands.

To increase the protection of the roof covering from the effects of condensation, you will need to lay a lining layer on the sheathing. Its installation is carried out exclusively at the edges, where there is a high probability of water leakage (near pipes, towards the ridge, onto internal valleys). The width of the lining should be about 40 cm. The carpet is nailed using nails or screws at a distance of approximately 25-30 cm.

If necessary, another layer is laid, which is placed on top of the already attached one. Sizing of the overlap is also required. For this, bitumen glue is used.

Before overlapping there is one more stage - installing drips. These are metal plates that protect the cornice from moisture penetration. The planks are nailed with nails at a distance of 10 cm, with an overlap of 5 cm. The drip edges on the ridge are attached in the same way.

Flexible tiles are attached to the plates, improving not only the function of the drip, but also the appearance. Since the plates are self-adhesive, the protective layer is removed from them and only then is it attached to the cornice. Sometimes, to increase the reliability of installation, fastening can be done using nails.

  1. Do-it-yourself roof installation.

The choice of roofing material directly depends on the type of roof. Each of possible options implies its own conditions and installation rules.

The following roofing options are available:
  • Bituminous flexible tiles. To evenly distribute the tiles and make it easier to overlap, the installation process must begin from the middle of the eaves. Removed first protective film from the shingles, and then gluing is done. It is advisable to nail it along the edges. Most best option– galvanized nails with wide heads. The tabs cover the joints of the shingles. If the design assumes the presence of pipes, then special passage elements are attached along the perimeter of the shingle cutout. In place of the ridge, the tiles are glued with an overlap. If the pipe is brick, which heats up during active use, a beam is placed at the corner of the roof and pipe triangular shape. The lining carpet is laid at a distance of approximately 20 cm from the pipe. In turn, a special connector is mounted on the pipe. All cracks are sealed with sealant.
  • Metal tiles. Under this material it is necessary to lay a discharged sheathing. Calculation of the amount of material is carried out by adding the indicators of the eaves overhang, the vertical overlap of the sheets and the length of the slope from the eaves to the ridge. The first sheet is laid down and aligned along the cornice and end, the second should be placed on top, and the third on the sides. The fourth will be placed directly above the second sheet. The entire resulting structure is leveled and attached to the sheathing using self-tapping screws. The entire roof is assembled according to the same scheme. Planks and external corners The ridge should be mounted with an overlap and fastened using the same screws. The plugs will cover the ridge at the ends. Additionally, it is recommended to install snow holders, which are installed directly on the roof covering parallel to the eaves. There are several options: plank, tubular and mesh. Covering metal tiles starts from bottom to top, from left to right. It is pre-laid out into stacks of about 5 pieces, which are placed on the slopes. This approach makes it possible to distribute the load on the rafters evenly. The shingles are attached to the rafters using galvanized screws.


Do-it-yourself roof eaves. Video

This work is carried out at the final stage. By that time, it is necessary to insulate the walls of the building, since the filing box will fit closely. Otherwise, you will have to leave the wall uninsulated or break the filing. As a rule, the lining is made of wood, which makes it possible to avoid additional ventilation.

By itself, it is a kind of box that is attached to the continuation of the filly and rafters. Its frame consists of two boards, where one goes straight towards the wall from the end of the overhang. The connection occurs at right angles using screws or self-tapping screws.

Metal plates are also used. Small gaps must be left between the boards. The corners of the box are cut at a certain angle, and fastening is done using screws and metal brackets. After this, upholstery is carried out with boards along the entire length of the lower part of the frame. Thus they are protected from exposure environment. In addition, you need to pay attention to the location of the joints. They must not coincide with adjacent beams. The corners are filed at 45 degrees.

Insulating the roof of a house with your own hands. Video

This process is no less important than any other. There are several insulation options:

  • from inside the sheathing;
  • on top of the sheathing.

If the owner does not plan to use the attic space as a living area, then internal insulation is possible. Thus, the free space formed between the rafters is hidden.

First, the entire perimeter should be covered with a waterproofing film. Since the rafters are located on top of the sheathing, the film is not stretched by the canvas. It is necessary to ensure that the waterproofing covers all parts of the structure. In the corners between the rafters and the sheathing, wooden slats are nailed on top of the film, after which they are stuffed into the sheathing in the area between the rafters. mineral wool. This insulation must be laid end to end.

Next comes the turn of laying the vapor barrier layer. The lower edge of this film is attached to the rafters. The joints of both films are overlapped and secured using special construction tape. If the attic space will be used as a living space, then care must be taken to ensure a higher level of roof insulation. Therefore, insulation and film must be laid on top of the sheathing and rafter structures.

It is necessary to avoid the use of polyurethane foam boards, since this material cannot fit tightly together.

The most acceptable material in terms of insulation is mineral wool, but it is mandatory to use waterproofing film. The principle of insulation work corresponds to the above.

Thus, erecting the roof of a house with your own hands involves a complex and step-by-step work, therefore this process should be approached as responsibly as possible. If you are not sure that you can perform all the above procedures yourself, contact a professional.