Metal tile is a material that is used for roofing along with such popular materials as slate, shingles and galvanized sheet. Excellent technical characteristics make it an excellent option for any home. And although they usually prefer to invite professionals to carry out this kind of work, we will consider how to independently install metal tiles: step-by-step instructions and some recommendations from specialists.
A roof made of tiles, especially if it is made of metal, is one of the best options for decorating a house. Experts and users themselves note many positive aspects of using this material, including:
Differs in the democratic price, long term of operation and expressive appearance
There is practically no need to talk about the shortcomings of metal tiles, with the exception, perhaps, of an increased noise level on days when it rains. But even with this it is quite possible to cope if you first lay a layer of glass wool.
Before starting to consider the process of installing this roofing material, it is necessary to decide how exactly the material should be used.
Viewing photos of roofs, on which metal tiles look attractive, is far from the best method in this case, since in the selection process you need to pay attention to the list of additional elements, as well as the markings provided by the manufacturer. Consider what the buyer needs to know.
First of all, you need to pay attention to the presence in the price list of such additional elements as:
Important! The presence of all the listed elements among the seller's offers is an indicator of the level of the company that produces metal tiles, which may also indicate the quality of the products themselves.
In addition, it is worth paying attention to the study of the marking, which must be present on each certified material. Usually, the production indicates all the characteristics of the material itself, as well as the quality level of the anti-corrosion coating that is applied over the sheet.
So, here is what information can be gleaned by reading the information provided on the back of the metal tile sheet:
In the process of visual inspection, you need to pay attention to the integrity of the protective layer, both from the front and from the wrong side of the sheet, as well as the presence of all mandatory markings.
Important! If we are talking about a material purchased from a major manufacturer, then the marking will also contain information about the grade of steel used.
Considering the fact that the price of installing a metal tile has never been low, many people prefer to try to do everything themselves. Although initially it is worth familiarizing yourself with how much professional installation of metal tiles costs. The price of work per m2 starts from 250 rubles and may increase depending on the complexity.
The process of installing a metal roof, the technology of which will be discussed below, consists of several stages, each of which has its own significance and must be carried out properly.
The first thing to do if it was decided to independently carry out the procedure for laying metal tiles on the roof surface is to carry out preliminary calculations. This is necessary in order to determine how much of what materials will be required and, accordingly, to avoid unnecessary costs.
To begin with, we will clarify some basic concepts so that in the future the question of how exactly the roof of a metal tile is arranged does not arise. If you look at the roof, which has already been covered with this material, you can see that it consists of rows that run across the slope and waves. The distance from one row to another is called a step.
There is such a thing as a "model". This name means sheets of metal tiles, the pitch of which is 35 cm, and the number of waves is 6. On sale you can find sheets of modules 1, 3, 6 and 10.
Useful advice! In addition to the purchase of sheets of standard sizes, you can consider the option of individual production of metal tiles to order. Of course, it will cost much more, but in this way you can get exactly the material that is right for you. The main thing to remember is that the length of one sheet should not be less than 45 cm or more than 7 m.
In the process of choosing the appropriate sheet size, you need to focus on the fact that after installation, the joints and waves converge in such a way as to form a single coating along the entire length of the slope. At the same time, it is quite simple to calculate the amount of material, taking into account the length of the roof and sheets.
When purchasing a metal tile, it is important to pay attention to some additional elements that are included in the kit and allow for proper installation. This includes steel strips 2 m long, as well as steel sheets 200x125 cm, which should have the same color as the tiles.
In the process of acquiring metal tiles, you need to make sure that these auxiliary elements are available in sufficient quantity and meet all requirements. For example, the standard bar inclination level is 30 degrees. Although other options are possible at the request of buyers - from 11 to 70 degrees.
Important! 11 degrees is the minimum slope at which the installation of a metal tile is acceptable.
In order to carry out the installation of metal tiles with your own hands, you need to take care of the availability of some tools and materials that will allow you to carry out all the work as simply and efficiently as possible:
It is also worth taking care of the presence of a ladder and means intended for individual protection of the face and hands (glasses, gloves).
As for the consumables that will be required to prepare the base and fasten the metal tile, this list includes: waterproofing material, roofing strips, tiles, as well as an aero roller, strips for the ridge and ends, a guide board and boards 2.5x10 cm. itself, you will also need fasteners - self-tapping screws and special sealing washers for them.
Useful advice! To give an attractive appearance to the coating, it is worth using decorative overlays.
The light weight of the metal tile allows for a minimum amount of preparatory work before proceeding to laying. And yet, you still have to prepare a suitable foundation. Since there is no need for a reinforced base, an ordinary wooden one made of slats is quite suitable.
The procedure is extremely simple - based on the step of the selected metal tile, slats are located on the surface. It is important to observe a single distance so that in the process of fixing the roofing material it is not necessary to screw the screws into the void. Another important factor to consider when installing the batten is the location of the windows. It is highly undesirable to place the rafters directly above the windows.
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When it comes to the construction of a roof made of metal, the heat-insulating material is designed to solve two problems at once - to reduce heat loss, and also to reduce the noise level that raindrops produce when they hit the surface. To do this, vapor barrier material is first laid on the rafters, and then a layer of thermal insulation. At the same time, it is important that the layer thickness does not exceed 25 cm. An antioxidant film is attached from above, fixing it with wooden bars directly to the rafters.
Important! In order to ensure that precipitation flows into the drain, the material must be fixed with a small allowance (about 2 cm). Due to such a small sag, there will be no problems with water runoff..
Such a “pie” is the most effective roofing thermal insulation system, which is allowed by the metal tile installation technology. As for the choice of thermal insulation material, there are several options that depend on cost, quality and manufacturer.
Before you start work related directly to the laying of metal tiles, you need to familiarize yourself with some rules and concepts that will help you avoid common mistakes and do everything you need as efficiently as possible:
Certain rules exist for the installation of other mandatory elements, without which no roof can do. Here are some recommendations regarding the installation scheme of metal tiles and other elements:
Useful advice! If you have to work with a roof whose slope angle is more than 45 degrees, then it is worthwhile to carry out calculations in advance that will determine whether it is possible to install a specific model of a ridge bar in this case. This must be done, because otherwise, it may even be necessary to completely replace the entire roofing.
It is also worth paying attention to the fact that, if necessary, the ridge bar can be adjusted to some extent. That is, it can not be bent or unbent to ensure the most accurate repetition of the angle of the roof. You can learn more about such subtleties from the video instructions for installing metal tiles.
Another extremely important element, the installation rules of which cannot be neglected, is the valley. For each such element, an additional board is necessarily attached. Fastening in this case must be started from the bottom, gradually moving up and not forgetting the need for overlap (in this case, 25-30 cm). Below the level of the cornice, the bottom bar must be cut off. This is followed by a flanging, under which, as well as under the ridge, a seal is laid.
There is a gap between the sheets and the axis, about 8-10 cm in size. Then, at a distance of about 1.5 cm from the stamping line, screws are screwed into the cut sheets. In this case, the mount should be located 25 cm from the axis of the valley. If you follow this technology, then as a result, the sheet, at the place of fastening, will converge with the board on which the valley is located.
As for the installation of the valley below, it must be started before laying the roofing material. This is important in order to further ensure that water flows directly into the additional element.
Important! All errors in the process of carrying out calculations and measurements can lead to the appearance of gaps on the surface, and when heavy precipitation begins, most likely the roof will leak.
In order to cover those places where cut sheets are visible, special decorative overlays are used. When installing them, you also need to remember a few simple rules:
Very often one has to deal with situations where the beginning and end of the valleys are located directly on the roof slope. As an example, consider the case when a skylight is being installed. In such a situation, it is imperative to put a separate board, and for the window itself, a hole is made in the sheet of metal. At the same time, the cornice cut is covered with a plank. And along the walls must be laid sealing material.
If there is a need to cover a triangular or trapezoidal roof with a metal tile, then the installation of two additional bars will definitely be required. They are installed along the fold line of the roof on both sides of the "ridge". After that, the cornice board is mounted and the assembly of the crate begins. The step of the crate for metal tiles in this case is calculated in the same way as with the standard scheme. Then the cornice system is installed. They begin to lay the metal tile only after all these procedures have been carried out, orienting and leveling the first sheet along the eaves bar.
Important! The distance between the corner sheets that were trimmed and installed near the "ridge" should not exceed 10 cm.
In order to install the ridge nodes, you need to align the ridge bars relative to the angle of the "ridge". In the case of using a straight ridge, it must be cut according to the available angles, and special plugs are provided for a semicircular ridge. Moreover, it is best to use plastic models.
The ridge bar should be located strictly along the axis of the "ridge". This is not too difficult a task if the slope angles are the same. If they have different values, then the task becomes much more complicated. As an auxiliary material, a bright mounting foam is used, which allows you to determine the quality of the junction with the slopes.
A separate type of metal tile, undoubtedly worthy of attention is Monterrey. This option is very popular due to some exceptional characteristics:
This material has only two drawbacks - a large number of residues after laying, as well as the need for high-quality sound insulation.
As for the features that you need to know about before laying the Montreuil metal tile, the following aspects play a role here:
It is categorically impossible to cut the sheet in the transverse direction, as this may lead to the fact that the profile will collapse. Also, in no case should a grinder or other tools with abrasive wheels be used for this purpose.
Interesting! The Cascade metal tile also looks great, the installation instructions for which are not too different from all the others. But on the other hand, the appearance of such a roof is considered more aesthetic and original.
Having studied the step-by-step instructions for installing metal siding, you can carry out its high-quality installation. But in order for the material to serve for many years, you need to know how to care for it.
The top layer of the metal tile is a polymeric material that is designed to protect against corrosive processes. But as a result of constant exposure to external factors: atmospheric precipitation, ultraviolet rays, as well as dust and dirt, this layer may begin to collapse, which will lead to the need to replace the coating. In order to avoid this phenomenon and extend the operational life of the roof, it is necessary to regularly carry out the following procedures:
Subject to these simple, but extremely important rules, a metal tile coating can serve as a roofing material for about 50 years.
Inexperienced craftsmen often make mistakes that can lead to the fact that the work will have to be partially, and sometimes completely, redone. Such negligence can lead to additional costs for the purchase of material and consumables, so it is better to familiarize yourself with common mistakes in advance in order to prevent them:
Taking into account these simple rules, as well as acting in accordance with the technology of laying metal tiles, you can independently make a beautiful and reliable roof.
A high level of safety is one of the main requirements that apply to a roof made of any material, including metal tiles. For this purpose, special designs are used, which are called snow retainers. And the main goal is to ensure the safe removal of snow from the roof and prevent possible dangerous situations. In addition, they contribute to the preservation of the original shape of the structure, and do not allow it to deform under the weight of icy snow. And given that its mass in some cases may exceed the weight of the roof itself, this problem is quite relevant.
Important! The issue of distributing the load that snow exerts on the roof surface should be thought out even at the stage of laying the foundation. This factor must be taken into account in the calculations.
It is almost impossible to predict exactly how snow will be distributed on the roof surface. It depends on many factors, including the angle of the roof, wind direction, etc. Therefore, in order to make calculations, a special formula is used:
Q = G×s
In this case, Q is the load that snow exerts, G is the mass of snow on a flat roof surface, which can be found in a special table, and S is a correction factor that depends on the angle of the roof: > 25 ° - 1, if 25- 60° - 0.7. If the degree of inclination is greater than 60, then this is not taken into account, since in this case precipitation on the surface will definitely not linger.
In order to determine the G index, it is necessary to refer to a special table that provides information on snow cover for each region of the country.
As a rule, a pipe is used as the basis for snow retainers, which is laid along the roof. In the case of using metal tiles as a roofing material, fixing is carried out in places where the roof and the load-bearing wall are connected.
It is strictly forbidden to fix these elements on the cornice strip for metal tiles, as this can lead to the destruction of the entire system. Moreover, if you have to deal with a ramp, the length of which is large enough, then the installation of snow retainers on the metal tile must be done in several rows at once to ensure a more reliable fixation.
The tubes themselves are mounted on the roof either end-to-end or in a checkerboard pattern. Special attention should be paid to the installation of such a system in the event that the house has an attic. In this case, the installation must be carried out in such a way that a snow retainer is located above each window opening. As for the distance from the edge of the roof to the elements, 40-50 cm is quite enough.
Lattice snow retainers are considered the most effective, so those users who are interested in the quality of the installed systems choose this option mainly. There are two types of such structures - ordinary and "royal", although it is worth recognizing that there is not much difference between them, with the exception of the supports and the complexity of the gratings.
The high level of efficiency and safety of this type of snow retainers is due to their considerable height, due to which they may not be useful not only in winter, when it comes to keeping snow, but also in summer. After all, it is in the warm season that most often all kinds of repair work are carried out.
Corner snow guards are thin steel sheets that are coated with a polymer coating that protects them from corrosion. This is one of the most budget options, which at the same time effectively prevents snow from rolling off the roof. It is very easy to choose a model that will fit the existing metal tile, since the range of colors is extremely large.
To fix the corner snow retainers on the roof of the roof with metal tiles, self-tapping screws and ordinary metal corners are used. Fastening is made on the upper wave of the sheet.
These are not all design options that can be used to prevent snow from rolling off the roof. The metal tile is perfectly combined with many models and varieties of these elements, so there will definitely not be any problems with the choice and fixation.
It is believed that the installation of skylights is not a task for beginners, and this issue is best addressed to specialists who have proper experience in this field. But this does not mean at all that it is unrealistic to do it yourself, especially if you use step-by-step instructions for dummies. The installation of metal tiles and the installation of the window itself in this case may well pass without any problems.
First of all, you should pay attention to the fact that the maximum possible width of such a window should be 80-120 mm less than the opening between the rafters. In cases where the rafter pitch is very small, two small windows are installed in adjacent niches.
The installation of the window is carried out after the roofing “pie” is completely made, then you need to install the mounting beam, for which I use the same boards as for the rafter system. Then the frame is installed and the sashes are mounted. It is very important to take care of high-quality waterproofing so that in the future the window does not become a source of precipitation penetration into the house.
Of course, you have to make some changes to the process of installing the crate under the metal tile, and pay special attention to the installation of the ridge of the metal tile if a roof window is planned. But all these difficulties are more than justified by the excellent result that awaits the owners as a result.
For those who have never done such work before, it will be extremely useful to watch a video on how to fix a metal tile on a roof. A visual demonstration, as well as the recommendations of experts, will allow you to avoid mistakes and independently make a beautiful and reliable roof that will serve you well for many years.
Profiled sheets (they are also called corrugated board) are a roofing building material used for the installation of external fences. It is very popular in roofing applications. Among the advantages of the material is the ease of installation.
There is a special technology on how to properly lay the corrugated board on the roof. Even an inexperienced person will cope with the task. Do-it-yourself roofing installation will save you a lot of money.
The first priority is the proper choice of material. Check out the recommendations of experts on this issue.
Even before laying the corrugated board on the roof, it is necessary to prepare materials. The marking of profiled sheets indicates the strength and purpose of the product. For laying the roof, materials with designations from C-8 to H-158 are suitable. There are various additional indices denoting the profile shape or wave pitch.
Experts have formulated the main rule for choosing a material: the greater the slope of the roof, the lower the product marking should be.
When choosing profiled sheets, it is worth considering the presence of stiffeners and drainage gaps. Such products are more durable due to increased reliability and fluid drainage. Accordingly, the roof of this corrugated board will last longer.
When the choice of material brand is over, you can proceed to the calculation of the load and planning the dimensions of the crate. This is the preparatory stage, how to properly lay the profiled sheet. The size of the construction step is selected based on the marking of the corrugated board. The higher it is, the higher this indicator.
Manufacturers produce profiled sheets with a polymer and galvanized coating. Both options are applicable for the arrangement of the roof. They have high performance and durability.
The main advantage of products with a polymeric protective layer is their high resistance to the influence of the external environment. In addition, the choice of such profiles is distinguished by the richness of color solutions. But it is worthwhile to understand that how to properly lay the corrugated board does not depend on the coating of the material.
Before you put the corrugated board on the roof, you need to perform a number of preparatory work. First you need to stock up on all the required tools and materials. It is necessary to cut profiled sheets according to the calculations for the use of the material.
For products with a thickness of up to 0.6 mm, it is most preferable to choose cutting shears, for the rest - lever ones. Bulgarian use is highly undesirable. When cutting material with its help, various defects may occur.
Tools that will be required when laying profiled sheets:
When performing any construction work, safety rules must be observed to avoid possible injuries. This also applies to how to lay the profiled sheet on the roof. The edges of the metal sheets are quite sharp, so when working with them, you need to use thick gloves. It is preferable to move along the roof in soft shoes, stepping into places with a crate.
Before starting the installation of roofing material, it is necessary to understand the general principle of how to properly lay the profiled sheet. An important nuance is the size of the overlap of the fasteners. This parameter is selected based on the angle of the roof slope.
The ratio of the slope of the roof with an overlap:
If it is planned to install profiled sheets on a sloping roof, then it is advisable to use building foam.
When the preliminary calculations are over and everything is ready for laying, it is necessary to equip the hydro and thermal insulation for the future roof. The task must be approached very responsibly.
Poor installation can lead to the formation of moisture under the flooring, which will destroy it. The result will be low durability of the crate and freezing of the roof. This will lead to increased humidity in the house, the formation of mold and damage to the wall and ceiling finishes.
To avoid such an outcome, it is necessary to provide ventilation gaps in the profile design, as well as equip waterproofing. It is best to use a special film for this. Such a film for corrugated roofing is laid horizontally from the eaves. At the same time, an overlap of 12 to 15 cm is preserved, as well as a sag between the rafters of about 2 cm. To connect the edges of the film, ordinary adhesive tape is used.
For the installation of corrugated board, a crate is required, which is placed on top of the protective film. Wooden structural elements must first be treated with an antiseptic. When creating a frame, previous calculations will be required (fastening step).
Let's figure out how to put the first sheet of corrugated board on the roof. You need to start installation from the bottom corner of the end of the roof. If laying is carried out on a non-standard roof, it is recommended that you first lay out the sheets on paper. When there is a drainage system, it is necessary to make the overhang of the profiled sheet no more than 60 mm. If it is not, then it is permissible to increase this size.
The main part of the work is over, it remains only to remove all the debris and paint the coating. Profiled sheets must be clean. The condition of the coating should be checked regularly. It is recommended to do this once a year. This approach will extend the life of the roofing, as well as preserve its original appearance.
The procedure for laying corrugated board is not very complicated. When performing work, you must strictly follow the technology, observing safety precautions. In this case, the roofing will be reliable and durable.
The roof is one of the main elements of any building. For its finishing, a wide variety of materials are used, among which metal tiles are especially popular and respected. Having figured out how to lay a metal tile with your own hands, you can perform roofing work without involving third-party specialists, significantly reducing financial costs.
Before starting work, prepare all required tools, materials, protective clothing and accessories. The maximum shelf life of metal tiles under "room" conditions is about 1 month. If you want to store the material for a longer period, it is recommended to choose some constantly ventilated room for this, and place the sheets themselves at a certain slope.
All these measures are carried out in order to ensure the protection of metal tiles from the harmful effects of moisture. Getting on the material, it will simply drain from it or quickly evaporate in conditions of good ventilation of the room.
Being engaged in the transportation of material and loading operations, it is necessary to ensure that the sheets of the roofing material being laid do not come into contact with each other too closely. When loading and unloading the material, the sheet should be held by its joining edges, so the integrity of the product will definitely not be violated.
It is best to work in some comfortable shoes with as soft soles as possible. From clothing, a simple overalls and a pair of protective gloves will suffice. Prepare a tape measure for measuring sheets of metal tiles to be laid. Fastening roofing material requires a screwdriver.
At the locations of hips, valleys and various other similar places, it will be necessary to cut sheets of material. This is best done with special scissors used by professional roofers. In their absence, you can use another tool. The most important thing is that it allows you to get neat and even cuts without deforming the edges.
It is strongly not recommended to cut sheets of roofing material with a grinder. Firstly, it is forbidden to do this by the manufacturers of metal tiles themselves. Violation of this condition automatically voids your warranty. Secondly, when exposed to an abrasive wheel grinder, there will be a violation of the protective coating and the overall structure of the material, which will lead to a significant reduction in its service life and the reliability of the roofing system as a whole.
Installation of any roofing material begins with the preparation of the base. In the case of metal tiles, work begins with the laying of waterproofing and windproof material. The film is attached to the rafters. Moisture-proof material must be laid in such a way that it protrudes from the end of the roof structure by about 20 cm. Use staples to fix the material to the rafter legs.
After laying the entire film, proceed to arrangement of the counter-lattice. For its assembly, a board 4 cm wide and 2.5 cm thick is traditionally used. Due to the counter-lattice, the final fixation of the insulating materials will be ensured and the most efficient air circulation will be created. Waterproofing should be laid in the direction of the rafter legs.
Do not stretch the film too tight. It should sag along the edge of the rafters by about 1-2 cm.
Lay the material with an overlap of about 15 cm. Glue the seams with metalized adhesive tape. The result is an excellent waterproofing layer that normally tolerates temperature changes and other negative effects.
When choosing boards for assembling the crate, you need to focus on such a parameter as the installation step of the truss trusses. If the trusses are placed at a distance of 90 or 120 cm from each other, it is recommended to assemble the crate from boards 10 cm wide and 3 cm thick. If the trusses are placed in increments of 60 cm, it is recommended to take a 10x2.5 cm board. The crate is installed from the beginning of the eaves. From there, you should start laying the metal tiles directly.
Choose the step of the lathing, focusing on the wavelength of the sheets of the laid roofing material. After completing the crate, proceed to fixing the end rails. Place them with a protrusion of about 4 cm above the crate mounted in the previous step. Also, eaves rails must be attached to the rafters. The eaves plank is fixed even before the laying of the metal tile is started. Use self-tapping screws to secure the strap. Individual elements are laid with an overlap of about 10 cm.
First, it is recommended to lay the longest sheets. This will allow you to level the roofing faster and easier. When leveling, focus on the eaves. Lay the first sheet in a place convenient for you, remembering to keep the cornice overhang at a level of about 4-4.5 cm.
Sheets are stacked with a mandatory overlap in 2 waves. Remember to align each sheet of material with the eaves and make a ledge of 4-4.5 cm along the edge. Continue laying metal tiles according to this scheme. Install self-tapping screws on the basis of the so-called wave of roofing material. The first fasteners should be placed at the intersection of the sheets of the laid metal tile in the overlap, and the subsequent ones should be screwed in at each wave.
On the sheet that is at the minimum distance from the eaves, the screws should be screwed in every 2 waves of the profile pattern. Screw all other fasteners on every 2nd drawing, as well as on every 3rd wave.
Continue to fasten sheets of material, adhering to the initially chosen order and direction. The overlap along the upper section of the profile drawing must be at least 13 cm.
When performing roofing work using metal tiles, do not deprive your attention of such elements as skates, various planks and valleys. Each of these elements is important in the overall design of the roofing system.
The main task of the mentioned objects is to protect the main part of the space under the roofing material from precipitation, foliage and other debris. There are quite a few effective solutions available on the modern market that allow organizing the highest quality protection of under-roof spaces. Each of these materials is installed according to its own technology, which is necessarily given by the manufacturer in the attached instructions.
Lay the base of the valley. All boards of this element are laid in a single plane with the boards of the sheathing construction throughout the entire roofing system. When arranging the valley, also do not forget to leave gaps of the order of 2 cm between all nearby planks. These slots will later be used to organize ventilation of the entire space under the roof.
Measure the desired length of the cornice strip, focusing, at the same time, on the length of the cornice. The plank is fixed along the corner of the valley. Next, you will need to lay the valley directly. Remember, at the same time, the need to designate guide lines. In the future, they will greatly facilitate your task of laying sheets of metal.
The guide lines must be located at a distance of at least 20 cm from each other. Next, you need to lay the seal. It must be taken so that the resulting indent from the guides is 3 cm, and the sealing lines are at a distance of 26 cm from each other.
Laying should begin with full size sheets, leaving trimming and cutting as late as possible. Measure the area under the metal sheet near the valley. Determine the distance from the guide to the overlap. All this will help to make a measuring tape measure.
You need to draw a guide, according to which you can place sheets of roofing material on the crate prepared for this. It is better to immediately take a number of measurements so as not to waste time on this in the future. Mark the cut point on a sheet of roofing material and cut it with special scissors.
If any kind of damage is found on the paint, be sure to paint over them with a coating of the same color before mounting the sheet in the place provided for it. Otherwise, the material will quickly rust, which will not have the best effect on its performance.
Lay the metal tile over the valley. Place the sheet cut along the guides applied in the previous steps. Lay cut-to-size sheets according to the guide lines. The end plank is attached in almost the same way as the sheets of metal tiles, i.e. towards the skate. It is necessary to cut this element already at the ridge.
To fix the end plate, self-tapping screws 7 cm long and 4.8 mm in diameter are used. You need to fix it every 50-80 cm, not forgetting the overlap.
The ridge of the roof can be fixed directly to the sheets of metal. Self-tapping screws are also used for fastening. It is necessary to fix it every 2 waves of the sheet. The ridge battens are laid with a 10 cm overlap.
For the safest possible movement along the roof area during its arrangement and maintenance, a vertical fence should be built on the eaves. The crate for such a fence is best made solid. The supports are fixed with galvanized screws. Install them where the waves of the sheets of metal sag. The installation of the fence support is carried out with a focus on the slope of the roof slope. It is recommended to mount the supports in increments of 90 cm. After completing the installation of all the supports, you need to fix the fence on them.
To prevent unauthorized uncontrolled falling of snow from the roof, install a snow retainer. This element is also equipped on a continuous crate. Place the supports for the snow holder in increments of 100 cm. The brackets do an excellent job with the function of the supports. Install so that there is no more than 50 cm between the end of the snow guard and the last support.
The snow guard is installed by analogy with a roof fence. This element is recommended to be placed at a distance of about 35 cm from the roof eaves. If the slope has a width of more than 8 m, it is recommended to install additional snow guards. Such an element must be present above the skylights.
If you don’t want to assemble and install a full-fledged snow retainer, you can try to get by with just a bar. It should be fixed through the wave of the roofing sheet.
Thus, there is nothing complicated in self-laying of metal tiles. You just need to fully understand each stage of the work and understand the order of installation of additional elements. Follow the instructions and everything will definitely work out.
Good luck with your roofing work!
Profiled sheet has proven to be a reliable and cost-effective material suitable for various construction tasks since its inception. Almost two centuries have passed since that time, but even today it remains one of the most sought-after materials. The professional flooring carries out its service especially well on the roofs of buildings and is able to protect our house from any precipitation, which has won the sympathy and trust of many homeowners.
To become one of these owners and get a reliable and beautiful roof, it is not at all necessary to invite builders. The profiled sheet has a simple design, due to which its installation becomes the same, and therefore all work can be carried out independently. To do this, it is enough to be able to handle the tool and consistently and accurately perform the entire list of necessary steps. The work on the roof will consist of the following stages.
The standard one has different sizes, depending on the brand: length - from 3 m, width - 600-1250 mm, corrugation height - 20-75 mm, rolled product thickness - 0.4-1.0 mm. The correct calculation of the material must be carried out so that the sheet completely covers the roof, hanging over the eaves by 5 cm. Most often, HC35, H60 or H75 grades are used for roofing.
The amount of overlap must be included in the calculation. For the vertical, one corrugation is enough, and the size of the horizontal will determine the angle of the roof. If it is more than 35°, the overlap size is 100 mm, 15-35° - 150-180 mm, 12-15° - 200 mm. The roof of the latter type at the joints of the sheets must be protected with sealant.
Types of corrugated board: wall and roofing.
Depending on the service life of the building, a waterproofing material is selected. Both roofing felt and polyethylene are suitable for temporary buildings, and for permanent ones - a membrane film. Thermal insulation material - basalt slabs or mineral wool.
The corrugated board is fastened with special roofing self-tapping galvanized screws with a neoprene sealing washer, their size is 4.8 × 19 mm, the consumption per 1 m of the roof is 5-6 pieces. The second type - 4.8 × 38 mm, per 1 m² - 4-5 pieces. The length of the third type is selected depending on the height of the profile. To protect the cut points from corrosion, it is recommended to purchase paint to match the color of the sheet.
To carry out the work you will need the following tool:
Roof framing scheme.
In order to properly equip the truss system for corrugated board, you should start with the choice of its material. Preference is given to coniferous lumber. Since truss systems are now produced industrially, the selection of the desired finished structure will be a simple matter.
One of the most durable and economical roof structures is the "triangle". Its main side is a puff, and the other sides are two rafter legs. It is suitable both for warm areas and with heavy snows, but then the roof needs to be strengthened with the help of internal supports: fights, racks, struts.
The size and design of the crate will depend on the brand that the corrugated board has. For roofs with a slope angle of more than 15 ° and C20 corrugated board, the crate is made continuous, and the overlap will be in two waves. If the C35 brand is laid on such a roof, then the cells can have a size of 30 × 30 cm, the overlap is performed in one wave. For brand C44 and above, the cell of the crate can be 50 × 50 cm.
Before laying the sheets, you will need to decide on insulation and ventilation issues.
The profiled sheet, its condition and service life largely depend on how correctly you make these decisions.
Thermal insulation will not be superfluous for warm areas. And soundproofing for such noisy coatings as profiled sheet for residential buildings can be considered mandatory. Requires attention and moisture, which forms under the underside of the sheet due to the temperature difference between the street and inside the house, it can cause corrosion and other problems.
To combat this type of moisture, waterproofing should be applied correctly, its installation is very simple. The material is laid over the thermal insulation, fastened together with adhesive tape and nailed to the crate with a stapler. The canvas is laid with an overlap of 10 cm, work begins from the bottom of the roof. Waterproofing is not always able to completely protect the roof from condensate, so ventilation will be required. One of its simplest options is to lay the slats on the waterproofing layer as a crate and create ventilation ducts.
To lift the profiled sheet to the roof, it is better to use wooden logs. They are placed between the ground and the edge of the roof at a slight angle, the sheet is placed on them with the wrong side and rises over the bottom edge, and on the roof it is picked up by the top edge.
Scheme of the correct fastening of the profiled sheet
You can install in one of three ways. For each of them, the layout of the screws is the same, and the width of the overlap will be the width of the wave. With a sufficiently large slope of the roof, the width of the overlap is increased. In each case, the first step in the installation will be the installation of the cornice strip. It must be below the edge of the waterproofing so that the flowing water enters the catchment only through it. If the roof is gable, then laying the sheet in each of the methods starts from its end edge, and the beginning of work on the hip roof - from the center of the hip.
Method 1. Decking from the ridge to the bottom of the roof is laid one sheet at a time so that a cornice overhang of 5 cm is obtained. The profiled sheet in the center is temporarily fixed with one self-tapping screw and the next one is laid. Having aligned them along the overhang, they are finally connected with self-tapping screws 4.8 × 19 mm along the upper edge in increments of 30-50 cm. At the overhang and on the ridge, the sheets are screwed to the crate, here every second lower wave is fastened with a screw. The profiled sheet in the middle part is screwed with self-tapping screws 4.8 × 38 mm in a checkerboard pattern, 4-5 pieces are consumed per 1 m².
The scheme of alternate laying of the profiled sheet during installation
Method 2. If the fastening of the profiled sheet is multi-row, then you can put it in the following order. First, the first sheet is laid and fastened, aligned with its underside along the eaves, and the second with the necessary overlap is fastened from above. The next sheet is again the bottom one, and the next top one is fixed on it. As a result, we get a block of four sheets, you can attach the next one to it, assembled in the same way as the previous one. Each finished block is aligned along the roof overhang and fastened with self-tapping screws. This installation method is well suited for sheets with a drainage groove.
Method 3. When the corrugated board does not have a drainage groove, then in order to lay it, you can assemble a different type of block. In it, the two bottom sheets are first attached, after - one on top. When the block is completely fixed, the next one can be attached to it. With this method, the upper blocks will overlap the lower ones and create the necessary protection.
The corrugated board is attached to the crate and to each other with special roofing screws, which were mentioned above. The use of a punch is not recommended as it may cause corrosion. To fasten the sheets to the crate with the lower corrugation, self-tapping screws 4.8 × 19 mm and 4.8 × 38 mm are used. Depending on the height of the profile, screws are selected for fastening through the upper corrugation. The screw should sink just enough so that the gasket gets full compression without becoming flattened. Then it is guaranteed to protect the roof from moisture and corrosion, and increase its service life.
During installation, it is necessary to properly work with corrugated board, this will prevent damage to it. Laying such a metal roof is necessary in soft shoes, without stepping on the crest of a wave. It is not allowed to use a tool that creates sparks and can damage the polymer coating: abrasive wheels, welding machine, autogen, etc.
After completing the installation, you should check the cleanliness of the surface of the flooring. Chips are removed with a soft sweep, holes and cuts are tinted to match the profiled sheet. It is important to remember that violations in laying technology lead to a deterioration in the quality of the roof deck, the appearance of corrosion, leaks and a violation of sound insulation.
In the foregoing, it is easy to see that the work of laying a profiled sheet is really not difficult and anyone can do it without any special training. The desire to make a light, aesthetic and reliable roof, coupled with accuracy, will certainly lead to the goal.
About how to lay a metal tile - the video has already been shot enough. However, few videos can boast of a full disclosure of this topic. In our article, we will try to fill this gap by telling the reader about all the nuances associated with laying this roofing material.
To begin with, consider the general concept of fastening metal tiles in the form of the following set of rules:
Advice! When storing sheets of metal, it is recommended to lay them with wooden slats. Transfer the sheets one at a time, wearing protective gloves and grasping their edges along the length.
Self-tapping screws are screwed tightly into the sheets of metal tiles, while not completely pressing the seal gasket.
Along the perimeter of the roof slope, fasteners are installed in the deflections of each wave. Then fastening is carried out to each bar of the crate with the arrangement of self-tapping screws in a checkerboard pattern.
When the screws are as close as possible to the step of the wave, they become barely noticeable, since they are located in the shade. They are screwed into the overlaps of the sheets of metal at an angle, which provides a better pulling of the sheets to each other.
On average, the consumption of self-tapping screws when fixing the roof is 6-8 units. per sq.m. and 3 units. per linear meter accessories for each side.
The use of self-tapping screws without a washer equipped with a special rubber band, or non-galvanized self-tapping screws, can lead to moisture penetration under the roof, corrosion of metal tiles, and a decrease in the strength of fasteners.
Incorrect fastening of self-tapping screws leads to loosening of fasteners, loose fit of roofing sheets to each other and the appearance of a noticeable seam
Accessories are fastened in all transverse waves with a step of 35 mm or in the longitudinal to the upper ridge through one wave.
Advice! For screwing in self-tapping screws, it is most convenient to use a screwdriver or drill with a low speed mode.
Scheme of a sheet of modern metal tiles When cutting sheets of tiles, an electric jigsaw with a blade for metal, a hacksaw or metal shears (electric or manual) are used.
It is forbidden to use an angle grinder with a nozzle in the form of an abrasive wheel - the coating loses its anti-corrosion qualities due to its burning through and sticking to the coating of metal chips.
The use of an angle grinder in the process of cutting profiled sheets with a polymer coating leads to burning out the galvanized layer at the cut point, which increases the corrosion rate and exfoliates the polymer coating.
In the process of cutting sheets of metal tiles, spray cans of paint will be required to tint the cuts, damage, and scuffs of the polymer coating that result.
In places of overlap between sheets during rain, a capillary effect may occur - moisture seeps in, rising above the level of the drain between sheets tightly pressed against each other.
To avoid the occurrence of such an effect, a capillary groove is made on each sheet of metal tile, which provides free flow of water that has penetrated under the sheet.
Metal tiles are produced with a single and double groove, located on both the left and right sides. The capillary grooves of the sheets are covered with subsequent sheets.
Rules for laying metal sheets Consider how to properly lay the metal tile:
The third sheet is laid to the left of the first sheet and fastened together, after which the fourth sheet is placed above the third sheet and connected in the upper part of the overlap without fixing to the crate, with the possibility of joint rotation relative to the self-tapping screw, which holds the 2nd sheet at the roof ridge.
Then the block is aligned along the end and cornice, the sheets are finally fixed to the crate. Upon completion of the flooring of the first block, consisting of 4 sheets, lay out and attach the next block to it.
Perform the procedure in the following sequence:
After providing the specified conditions on an unfixed sheet, a marking line is drawn. It is applied along the outer side of the second vertically standing board, while lying on the valley. The sheet is removed, cut according to the markup and placed next to the attached sheet. Installation of subsequent sheets of metal tiles is carried out in a similar way.
The device of through exits in the roof is carried out with the help of special passage elements, which ensure the tightness of the passages. Installation of such elements is carried out according to the instructions attached to them.
The places of passage through the layers of steam, heat and waterproofing are sealed with adhesive tape, while the joints between the elements are filled with silicone sealant. As a rule, sealant and tapes are included in the delivery of the feed-through elements.
The processing of protruding dormer windows is carried out by analogy with the processing of joints between the slopes. First, the lower valleys are laid, after the tiles, and then the upper valleys.
Since there is a possibility of moisture seepage between the metal-tile sheets and the upper valley on the slope of the dormer window, a universal or porous self-expanding sealant is necessarily placed in the assembly.
The lower valleys are slightly led out of the gable line in order to provide drainage. The upper valleys are subject to pruning.
So, we have considered the rules for laying metal tiles on roofing slopes of various shapes, so we hope that now having bought a metal tile - how to lay it, you will have a complete idea.
