Arrangement country house requires solving many engineering and construction issues. In addition to creating convenient and comfortable conditions for living inside the house, you will also have to equip your garden plot. One of the important buildings on suburban area is a storm drain at the dacha.
There are practically no areas in our country where there is no precipitation. IN middle lane In Russia, the volume of rain and water from melting snow throughout the year can be measured in cubic meters. In addition, not a single dacha is immune from heavy rain, which in a limited time can oversaturate the soil on your site with moisture and turn it into a natural swamp.
After your dacha is covered by heavy rain, the fallen water will roll off the roofs and from areas with a hard, non-water-absorbing coating into the ground, excessively saturating it with moisture. Not only can this moisture cause problems for your crops, but it can also cause the foundation of your home to collapse. If there is a cellar, ground floor or basement in yours country houses– water can penetrate these rooms and partially flood them. The same situation with an excessive amount of moisture in the area can also develop during intense spring melting of the snow cover.
To protect yourself from the adverse effects of moisture - on personal plots they install a storm drain that drains excess moisture outside your dacha, to a place where it cannot damage anything.
The storm sewer system is a rather specific structure. Unlike conventional water supply, rain and melt water contain a large amount of both large debris and small suspended particles. This composition of the drain implies primary treatment and the creation of a channel for the uninterrupted movement of littered water.
The composition of the storm drainage system is not limited solely to drains that collect rain moisture from the ceilings of structures. Rain pipes are only one of the components of a storm drain.
In the storm country sewerage The following main components can be distinguished:
It is also worth noting that storm drainage can be created using two design methods: linear and point, or a combination of both.
When using this method of collecting rain or melt water, runoff is collected from hard, non-absorbent surfaces, for example roofing coverings or paved areas. Next, the wastewater is sent to receiving funnels. After collection, the wastewater is transported to the drainage system.
When using a linear drainage system, all runoff from non-absorbent surfaces is drained into gutters located along such areas. After collection, rain and melt runoff is sent to the drainage system. If there is a border with a ravine or reservoir on your site, it is advisable to direct the drains towards the natural flow. As an option, rain and melt runoff can flow into a purification plant, where it undergoes primary treatment.
Recycling rain and melt water seems to be a very profitable activity. With its use, you can achieve significant savings on water bills for irrigation or cleaning. Rain and melt runoff carry relatively few pollutants and their treatment in a standard septic tank should not pose any particular problem.
Despite the fact that storm drainage is quite complex engineering system– you can easily install it yourself. The situation is made easier by the fact that there are no pressure pumps in the storm sewer system, and the water in it moves by gravity. Therefore, installing a storm drain in a country house or in country house is just a more technically advanced children's igloo with spring streams. In order to competently design and install rain or melt water drainage at your dacha, you need to have only minimal technological skills.
To lay storm drain gutters in an open manner, you can use ready-made solutions - concrete and plastic gutters for storm drains.
Also, storm sewer can be combined with a drainage system. In soils with a lot of moisture, constant drainage of excess water is required. To do this, pipes with holes are laid in the ground, which collect moisture from the soil and divert it away from the site. These same pipes can also be used to move rain or melt water outside the area. However, as a rule, drainage pipes are laid at a depth greater than the storm sewer system.
Carefully calculate the slope of the drainage pipes. Use building level or a special theodolite.
Please note that water is a rather aggressive environment, so make the storm sewer system exclusively from materials that are not susceptible to corrosion, such as plastic or reinforced concrete. Do not use pipes with corrugated surfaces as they are extremely susceptible to clogging.
Water can find its way out everywhere, so when connecting storm drain pipes, use sealing technologies similar to conventional outdoor drains.
To prevent the water in the storm drain from freezing winter time– at the beginning of frost, the system must be completely cleaned and freed from water.
All entrances to drainage basins and storm gutters must be covered with gratings. It is easier to rake leaves from such grates than to later remove them from the bowels of the sewer system.
At each turn of the drainage pipe there must be an inspection hatch or well.
To learn more about the technology for constructing storm drains in a dacha, watch the video tutorial.
Rain and melted snow cause enormous damage to the foundation of the house and the site itself. Excess moisture is formed, which has a bad effect on the paved paths of the site.
Puddles do not look aesthetically pleasing, and it is unpleasant to step into them. To minimize this problem storm sewer is installed in a private house.
It can be done during construction or arranged after.
The first thing that needs to be done is a water drainage diagram.
Important
Since water is drained by gravity, the sewerage plan is drawn up taking into account the highest and lowest points of the site. A slope is made to the lowest point, where water is discharged into a reservoir or storage tank.
When creating a plan, it should be taken into account that water drainage can be external or underground.
External drainage system consists of trays, gratings, and sand traps.
Pipes (drains) are buried in the ground to transport excess liquid from drainpipes and drainage wells.
Installing a storm drain with your own hands is not difficult.
Products made of plastic, cast iron, and metal are used for laying storm drains.
Cast iron is a very strong and durable material, but it is not suitable for arranging a storm drain in a country house, it is very heavy.
Metal drainage trays are lighter in weight, coated with an anti-corrosion coating, and have good strength.
I am a leader in the plastic products market. Lightweight material, durable, resistant to corrosion and chemicals and easy to install yourself.
Trays are available in three forms:
Drainage trays in the shape of the letter U are most often used for suburban areas.
It is good to install slotted ones on the sidewalk or path. They do not have a grate; between the tiles or along the edge of the asphalt, a narrow slot will be visible, into which all the water that gets on the coating flows.
U-shaped trays differ only in shape. The presence of corners in the drain system is not always good.
Gutters are pipes and gutters that are installed on the roof canopy and at the corners of the building to drain precipitation.
Once the plan is ready and all the required materials have been purchased, you can begin installation.
For your information. Downspouts may or may not have a gutter connection.
Having finished with the drainage main on the house, you should install point storm inlets.
A pit slightly larger than a storm inlet is dug under the drainpipe, and a trench with pipes is laid from each storm inlet.
The first rainwater inlet is installed at the highest point of the site, the rest are lower. The slope of the pipes is made from the first to the next. In this way, gravity flow is organized.
For better fixation, the rainwater inlet is installed on a concrete solution or a cushion of crushed stone and sand.
The trenches for the pipes are filled with gravel and sand.
Important! The receiver grille should be 0.5 cm below the coating level.
After the pipes are connected to the water receiver, it is covered with a grill.
For your information. Point rainwater inlets are used not only to drain water from the roof, but also as independent element. It is installed in a parking lot or playground at the lowest point.
It is carried out through drains that are connected to a general storm sewer:
Storm drains are part of the sewer drainage system or act as an independent structure.
In the first option, water is drained into laid pipes. Which involves creating holes and connections to the system. Installation is more complicated. It doesn't matter what type of drain you choose. The highway itself is laid according to the same pattern.
All trays are laid on a slope, like pipes. To install the trays, you will need to organize a trench larger than the gutter.
The trays are connected to each other, the seams are processed.
Gutters can be with or without grating. The grille protects against debris, injuries and serves a decorative function.
It is advisable to install drainage trays with cement mortar to avoid them being squeezed out during the cold season and washed away with a lot of precipitation.
If drainage products are made of plastic, then after pouring the solution, you should immediately install a grate to correct distortions.
A plug is installed on the first tray. To the last sand trap.
In the case of discharge into drainage pipes, sand traps are installed at each drain.
Important. The tray grid should be 0.5 cm below the covering.
Surface storm water is discharged into a reservoir or storage tank.
In case surface outlet connected to the hidden one, no outlet arrangement is required, a plug is placed on the last tray.
For high-quality installation To ensure a long service life of the drainage system, several rules must be followed:
Following all these rules, installing a functioning water drainage system will not be difficult.
Today, many people who have their own homes decide to make storm drains. It is worth saying right away that the work process itself is complex. The first difficulty lies in creating the project and the need to carry out calculations. In this article we will tell you how to make a storm drain yourself.
We can say that storm drainage simultaneously helps solve two problems:
In a word, storm drainage is necessary in order to increase the comfort of the site, as well as extend the life of existing buildings.
Note! The construction of storm drains is similar in structure to the construction of internal and external sewers. If you did this system yourself, then you can do this job!
Here's what's included in a standard rain shower kit:
We will write in more detail about their use and installation below, and now it’s time to start preparing a storm sewer project and making the necessary calculations.
Implementation of the plan without necessary calculations- This is money thrown away. Why? The fact is that if the constructed storm sewer cannot cope with its main functions, then there is no point in starting work. Moreover, if you make a storm drainage system that is too large, it will require a large amount of finance. For this reason, first of all, it is necessary to calculate all costs.
Necessary information for accurate calculations:
All this information is necessary to make the following calculations of the volume of water discharged. When all the information is in your hands, calculations are carried out using the following formula:
Here is the correction factor used in this formula:
Based on the obtained value, the required pipe diameter is selected exclusively according to the current SNIP table.
As for the project, you should consider the option of making rainwater drainage. In most cases, this will be influenced by the nature of your area. It is necessary to consider a method for draining water towards the collector. If on your territory it is not possible to make a sufficient slope towards the drainage of water, then it is necessary to provide pump equipment. Please note that you need to draw up a project both for the external storm drainage system, which will be located on the roof, and for underground system. Now let's look at the location of the storm drain on the roof.
On the roof, the equipment is installed along the gutter, which will collect all the water from the roof. If your budget allows, you can buy gutters ready-made with a set of fasteners. If not, then you can do it yourself. For example, sawing a pipe in half lengthwise. Pipes for guttering can be polymer, asbestos or steel. If in your territory strong winds and downpours, then it is best to install metal gutters.
To determine the size of the gutter, you need to carry out calculations in accordance with SNIP. To drain water and prevent clogging of drainpipes, it is recommended to install special funnels. Each funnel is additionally equipped with a protective grille or a special cap.
Note! If your roof is pitched, it is recommended to use caps. At flat roof It is better to use grates.
During installation, it is necessary to ensure that the connection of the funnel to the roof is airtight. For this purpose, the use of bolts will not be sufficient. Additionally, you can use mastic or waterproofing material. There is also a danger of turbulence. To prevent them, a jet straightener is used. So, from the funnel along the entire wall, a pipe is laid down, where the water enters the rainwater inlet.
The storm sewer system is divided into two methods of water collection: point and linear.
Point storm drainage system. This system includes rainwater inlets. They are mounted under the gutters of external and internal drains. Each individual receiver underground is connected into a common backbone. The storm water inlet is equipped with a grate and a sand trap. This prevents debris, plant debris and other suspended soil particles from entering the line.
Linear storm drainage system. In this case, the storm drain is a network of channels that are laid underground or slightly deepened in a trench. Those trays that are laid open method are additionally equipped with a sand trap, and are also equipped with gratings. A linear storm drain differs from a point drain in that it collects water not only from the roof, but also from the area adjacent to the house. This is the system that is used for large areas.
So, based on the size of the surrounding area, you need to decide on one type of system. Although this is a minor factor that must be taken into account when choosing a water collection method. Already at this stage, preparatory work should be carried out.
Trays should be laid at the depth required in your area. For example, this could be a depth of 300 mm. If the pipeline or open trays are large enough, then they will need to be laid at a depth of 500 mm. Larger channels will need to be deepened to 700 mm.
Note! If you already have drainage, then the storm drain should be laid exclusively above it.
If you want to reduce labor costs, then you shouldn't go too deep into the ground. Moreover, you should not install the collector below the ground freezing level. Accordingly, if the collector is raised as high as possible, then the channels will not need to be deepened too much. To prevent the collector from freezing in winter, it can be insulated with heat-insulating material. Accordingly, if you do storm drainage, then you will have to dig significantly less trenches. At the same time, this permission should not be abused. The channels must have a sufficient slope to allow water to drain well. Therefore, the collector will in any case be located below the rainwater inlet. It is in this case that a project will come in handy, which will allow you to accurately calculate the required slope of the highway.
If we are guided by GOST regulations, then a pipe with a diameter of 150 Ø mm should have a slope of 0.008 mm/m. pipe 200Ø angle – 0.007 mm/m. Based on the characteristics of a particular area, this slope may vary slightly.
Please note that at the storm inlet site the optimal slope is 0.02. If there is insufficient slope in this area, then there is a risk that the system will not cope with the heavy flow of water. Moreover, near the sand trap, the flow speed should be lower, because suspended particles should have time to settle. Therefore, near this device, the angle of inclination should be as small as possible.
At the first stage installation work you have installed a storm drain on the roof and connected gutters to the storm inlet. Work on the ground should begin with the installation of a rain inlet or, as they are called, water inlet funnels. It is important to install them directly under the downspout. Each drainage funnel is tied into one system. For this reason, you can make the required number of holes for the pipes yourself. Using an elbow, the pipes are connected to the rainwater inlet.
Afterwards it is necessary to prepare trenches for laying trays and pipes. Their installation must be carried out on a sand cushion 100 mm thick. As mentioned above, when laying pipes, you must strictly monitor the slope. If you don’t do this, then there will be no sense in the money and work spent. During the installation process, you will additionally need the following elements:
To significantly reduce the amount of excavation work, a drainage pipe and a storm drain can be laid simultaneously in one trench. However, you should not combine these two different directions. As mentioned above, drainage pipe will be located below, and a storm sewer may run above it.
Note! The slope of the entire system will always be directed towards the collector or to the place where the storm sewer is discharged.
Accordingly, the entire storm sewer pipe system must be connected into one route, which will be directed to the collector. It is very important that the collector itself is equipped with inspection rings. This will allow you to timely check the level of accumulated water, as well as clear it of possible debris. When the entire system of pipes and trays is laid, all that remains is to cover it with durable gratings made of reinforced concrete or metal.
After this, it is necessary to check the entire storm sewer system for operability. To do this, you need to fill a bucket of water into each rainwater inlet. Then check to see if the water flows well. It is also important to check the system for leaks. If one is found, it should be eliminated by covering it with sealant. If the whole system works perfectly, then you just need to fill the trench. In this case, the grate can be covered with cellophane so as not to cover the tray with soil.
Of course, the assembled storm sewer will work reliably without failures or any special problems, if you follow some rules regarding its operation.
So, we have reviewed the basic recommendations and rules for installing storm sewers. Of course, its presence at every site is simply necessary. Remember, you are quite capable of installing storm drains yourself, without the help of professionals. To do this, you will need to thoroughly understand the essence of the matter and you will succeed.
Scheme of storm sewerage with drainage elements
Properly arranged sediment drainage has advantages for private houses, especially when good project and high-quality assembly. Main function storm system consists of protecting the foundation of the house and its walls, as well as basements, from external natural influences.
The storm drain will protect the yard and the building area from dirt, puddles and excessive waterlogging of the soil, which contributes to poor growth plants.
You can design the drainage of rain or melt water yourself, but it is better to entrust it to a specialist who will professionally approach the installation, select the necessary components, and carry out the work quickly and efficiently. The sewerage scheme will need to be drawn up according to the climate and local conditions.
Sediment drainage systems are represented by a network of pipes and receivers that perform the following functional actions:
In the private sector, the following types of storm sewer systems are found:
The storm drain can enter part of a general village ditch, exit into a nearby ravine, reservoir, or go directly to a collector, which will filter into the soil.
All stormwater systems come in two types:
In the first type, a rainwater inlet is made under the drain, and the funnel that collects water has a filter mesh and a basket inside to collect debris.
In the linear type, underground channels are located in shallow trenches and collect natural moisture in open trays with grates along the entire line containing sand traps.
IMPORTANT! A linear system, unlike a point system, collects precipitation not only from the roof, but also from the surrounding area (paths, platforms, surfaces with paving slabs). This type covers large area service. A person must choose which type of storm drain to choose himself, depending on his financial capabilities and taking into account the fact that each home has its own own circuit, depending on the building design, location, site size and terrain.
Standard drainage components are combined into a common interacting system with linear and accurate technological characteristics. Storm water drainage systems are complex devices and channels consisting of:
The entire system of channels and devices is sent to the collector wells, then distributed at the unloading point. Laying a storm drain in the ground uses a pipe system. In trenches and ditches, trays and gutters made of plastic, asbestos or concrete are built into the surface.
Drainage is installed on the roof. Stormwater inlets are always located under the pipes. At the top, trays and pallets are always covered with bars.
When starting to install a rainwater sewer system, you must make a schematic diagram of the location of the channels, and only then carry out the work.
IMPORTANT! To ensure the natural movement of sediment through the drainage system to the place of filtration and discharge, the components of the sewer system must be laid with an inclination towards these systems.
The storm drainage system requires the use of high-quality pipes. Polyethylene, plastic or propylene pipes are best suited for these purposes.
Polyethylene are considered the best in cost and because quality characteristics– smoothness of the walls, which will not accumulate residual water and bacteria on the walls. In addition, this product allows liquid to pass through well and is considered durable.
Plastic pipes are corrugated, made under high and low pressure. They are assembled well and quickly using fittings.
In addition to the above, you can use pipe products made of metal (withstand heavy loads, especially along roads), fiberglass and asbestos cement.
A pipe system transports sludge from receptacles to the disposal site.
The diameter of the choice of stormwater pipes depends on climatic conditions, power and saturation of natural precipitation, as well as the structure of the system (its branching and area). The smallest diameter is considered to be 150 mm, with a slope level of more than 3 cm for each m of pipe outlet.
The diametrical calculation is calculated independently or with the help of professional services. To do this, find out the average amount of regional precipitation, calculate the area of land and the correction factor, which depends on the surrounding soil (coverage). For example, with an adjacent asphalt area, the coefficient will be 0.95, concrete – 0.85, engraved or sandy – 0.4.
The volume of water (Q) is calculated using the formula: Q = q20 ∙ F ∙ φ. As soon as the formula shows how much precipitation the pipe must cope with, then its diametrical volume begins to be determined. For this they use technical table Lukins.
For a medium-sized garden plot, the most suitable diameter will be 100-110 mm.
IMPORTANT! In order for rainwater drainage to last for a long time, you need to choose the right pipes, calculating their diameter in such a way that they can cope with the large flow of incoming water volume.
The depth of the rain channel depends on the technical requirements of your region. You can find out about the standards from any public or private construction company or from the persons who built the storm drain in your neighborhood. In the central zone of the Russian Federation, sediments are discharged at a depth of 0.3 m with a diameter of pipes and trays of no more than 50 cm. For large diameter pipe products, they are allowed to be deepened by 0.7 m.
Installation work should proceed as follows:
Storm drain slope standards (according to GOST) are represented by the slope parameter of pipes with a cross section of 150 mm - 0.008 per linear meter. With a product diameter of 200 mm, the slope should be 0.007 mm/m. Such data may vary and depend on the type of soil. But the maximum slope angle at the junction of the storm inlet and the channel is 0.02 m/m, and this contributes to a better rate of precipitation outflow. The system is built thanks to minimal slopes so that the water speed in front of the sand trap is reduced, which allows suspended inclusions to settle in a timely manner and not clog the channel.
IMPORTANT! For self-improvement own home in the form of a rain system, it is advisable to familiarize yourself with the requirements of SNiP (Document No. - 2.04.03-85).
The water drainage system on the roof is fixed along the slopes of the gutters, where precipitation flows through funnels and pipes.
Sediment collection in systems with funnels is arranged at the points of contact and junction of slopes. Holes are made in the floors of the building for rainwater inlets to install them, sealing them hermetically with bitumen mastic at the junction.
Then pipes for drainage and risers are installed, which will then need to be attached to the building with construction clamps.
The roof rainwater catchment system includes:
After roofing installation install trays and construct a linear storm drain. To do this, trenches are dug and earthworks are carried out.
The installation of rainwater drainage lines is identical to the installation of external sewers.
Dig trenches to a given depth and compact them well, removing plant roots and other debris. Then a sand cushion is formed according to accepted standards.
They form a large pit in the form of a pit for a collector (plastic). A collector well can be made independently using formwork and concrete pouring.
Channels for water collection and purification devices must be installed at an angle. The inlet levels to the collector must be below the trays or pipework coming from the sediment receiver. Pipes are connected to each other with fittings.
If the rainwater drainage system is more than 10 m, then the construction of inspection wells is necessary. Sand traps are placed in the area of the joints, and their connections are sealed. In the future, the owner of the house will be able to clean sand traps and monitor the operation of the entire system.
When installing a rainwater inlet, it must be filled with concrete and a heavy load must be placed for two days to protect the product from being squeezed out.
It is advisable to arrange collectors and wells higher level seasonal freezing (in comparison with GOST recommendations, place them lower). They can be insulated with geological textiles and a layer of fine gravel, which are thermal insulation materials. Don't forget about the sand cushion.
After checking the operation of the rain drainage system, the trench is backfilled, and the components in the form of gutters, trays and pallets are equipped with gratings.
IMPORTANT! If a storm drain is made together with a drainage system, then it is laid above the drainage.
Before building a storm sewer system, it is necessary to carry out everything necessary calculations and draw a diagram. This will protect you from unnecessary financial expenses and help you purchase all the necessary components for the project. If there is little rainfall in the region, storm water can be collected in barrels and used to water the garden.
A clean and dry yard after rain, no puddles on the lawn or washed-out beds, healthy plants and perfectly smooth paths are the result of proper planning and installation of surface drainage. It is difficult to achieve such a result on your own without significant expenses, but it is possible if you make storm drainage with your own hands to drain the surface and remove rainwater. In combination with a storm drain (a system for draining water from the roof), the drainage network will also reduce the amount of moisture penetrating into the deep layers of the soil - the load on the deep foundation drainage network will decrease.
It is worth planning the layout of drainage networks and storm water systems even before the start of construction. Foundation protection in the form of a wall system is easier to install if the foundation pit is not backfilled. While construction is underway and there is equipment on site, it is advisable to order trench digging so as not to dig manually and carry dirt into the landscaped area. Protection from melt and rain water is:
Stormwater and drainage around the perimeter of the house
Scheme for removing moisture from the surface: drainage system
Stormwater sewer network it is arranged with a connection to a common highway, if there is a collector or city stormwater pipe nearby. In the case when the branches of the city network are located on long distance, the output of the local drainage system and storm sewer is organized in 2 ways: to a filtration field (an area covered with crushed stone to drain moisture into the ground), or to a receiving tank (drainage well, pond, roadside ditch). Drain from private storm drain into the general household sewer system is prohibited.
System elements:
Receiving tank with outlet
The containers are mounted under the outlet of the drainpipe, connecting the pipe to the sewer pipe. Pipes are dug in at an angle to the drainage point.
The site surface drainage system consists of point and linear outlet branches connected into one network with outlet to the water intake. Storm drainage on the site is arranged in the form of open channels dug at a slope to the drainage point. Marking is carried out only after studying the direction of natural outflow during heavy rain. Be sure to form drainage lines:
Drainage network: point catch basins and storm trenches
Drainage branches on a slope
Storm drainage around the house is a line of trenches laid along the blind area along the entire perimeter of the buildings. To drain the tiled yard, channels are formed at the entrance to the garage, near the porch, and steps.
Point drainage outlets are dug in places where there is no need to lay drainage channels: under watering taps, near the outlet of drainpipes (in areas where there is no storm drain). Drainage from point drainage wells is discharged into a discharge pipe of a common surface network.
Two separate networks: drainage and stormwater
Optimal scheme drainage of the area with the house - separate drainage networks and storm drains around the house. It is undesirable to connect linear channels with sewerage: during heavy rainfalls or rapid melting of snow, one pipe may not cope and overflow will occur through the water intakes.
It is advisable to connect stormwater and drainage in one trench only in one case: if the trench is dug for a drainage outlet from a point drainage and sewer pipes are used rather than perforated pipes. The pipes are laid parallel along the bottom of the concreted trench. Lay sealed sewer pipe into a channel with drainage backfill is prohibited: the diameter of the pipe will reduce the useful volume of the ditch and create difficulties when cleaning the trench.
General drainage of point drainage and storm water into a filtration tunnel
Instead of trying to connect storm water and linear drainage, it is better to make a common receiver, especially if it is not possible to make a connection into a city highway. Rainwater can be used for irrigation or filling artificial reservoirs. The receiver is set to plastic tanks, or they make wells without a bottom - to drain the incoming liquid into the ground.
Storm drainage is a surface system that does not require extensive excavation work or digging deep trenches, so you can do a simple installation yourself. Before starting work, the places where lines and drainage points must be constructed are determined, and the drainage trajectory is planned. It is possible to detect all places where natural outflow is insufficient during heavy rainfall and after the snow begins to melt. An area with clayey, supersaturated soil that does not absorb water from the surface also requires the installation of branched linear storm drainage.
For preliminary calculations of quantity necessary materials It is worth drawing a diagram of the canals on the site plan.
Storm drainage installation plan
List of materials that are needed for independent installation of storm drainage of the site and installation of the system around the perimeter of the house:
On the walls - preparation for pipe outlet
Containers with basket and attachments
Synthetic water-permeable fabric
Factory PVC drainage wells
Point water inlets are stormwater and drainage elements installed under the outlet of drains. It is necessary to plan the installation so that the flow from the drain falls exactly in the center of the grate.
The edge of the well should be flush with the decorative coating
The dimensions of the hole for installing the container are determined by the height of the receiver, adding up to 30 - 40 cm for bedding and base. There should be a gap of up to 5 cm along the perimeter on each side. Dig a hole, level the walls and bottom. Be sure to check the horizontalness of the bottom and the angle so that the container does not move during installation.
Checking horizontal level
A dense ten-centimeter layer of compacted sand is formed at the bottom. A layer of crushed stone up to 25 cm high is laid on the sand cushion. It is advisable to fill the bottom concrete mortar. The poured base is left for several days until it hardens completely, or the container is fixed in fresh solution (if necessary, permanent fixation).
On concrete base install the rainwater inlet so that the container lid is flush with the blind area. If installation is carried out before laying decorative covering, then leave the free edge of the well above the ground to the height of the tile or stone.
Correct installation of the receiver
The side gaps are filled with crushed stone or filled with concrete. Before backfilling, a fitting is connected to the outlet to drain the pipe. Install the internal parts: basket, partitions, fix the lid.
Stormwater drainage along the perimeter of the building can be planned in the form of a ring closed at the collection point, without inspection wells. Demountable sand traps are provided for cleaning. Device Rules linear system:
Trays - along the edge of the blind area with a height reserve for paving slabs
To ensure that the installed gutters do not move or deform over time, several rules must be followed during excavation work. The bottom and walls must be smooth and solid. At the bottom, a standard sand cushion and crushed stone bedding must be made.
Plastic tray mounted on factory stand
To prevent the tray (especially a plastic one) from becoming deformed, it is better to make a concrete base for installation. The thickness of the concrete layer is 5 cm.
Laying the gutter on the solution
Gutters are installed in the prepared trenches. The structures are connected to each other with special locks. The extreme points (at the beginning and end of the line) are covered with plastic or metal plugs. If plastic gutters are used, factory spacers are installed inside.
Sand trap in drainage line
The gaps between the trays and the walls of the trench are filled with crushed stone or concreted. On long sections, sand catchers are installed - deep trays with mechanical filter. At the installation sites, discharge pipes are connected to the sand traps. Trenches for discharge pipes are dug at an angle.
Drain rainwater from garden paths, flower beds and along the fence can be done in an economical open way. Instead of ready-made trays, backfill storm drainage channels are installed. Trenches are dug along the planned lines. Depth – from 50 cm, width – from 50 – 60 cm.
Instead of gutters - backfill trench
The branch is formed with a slope towards the receiving tank. The walls are at an angle to the bottom to reduce the pressure of flowing water. The bottom is filled with sand. Check the correctness of the slope. For one meter – up to 3 cm height difference.
Pipe in crushed stone backfill
Geotextiles are laid on the sand layer. The edges are left free. The entire width of the trench is filled with crushed stone in a layer of up to 30 cm. A system with a perforated drainage pipe inside the crushed stone backfill will be more durable. Fold the edges of the fabric overlapping.
Dry stream with decorative backfill - a beautiful drainage line
The drainage clip is covered on top decorative material: river pebbles, multi-colored crumbs, stones. Dry streams are an aesthetic and economical solution.
Drainage well– system connection point. With a moderate amount of water and good water-absorbing characteristics of the soil, the drainage tank is installed on crushed stone cushion. Through a well without a bottom, water penetrates into the ground.
Drainage well with backfill bottom
If installing a filter well is not possible, then drainage tank the liquid is discharged into the general storm water main or discharged outside the site - into a natural reservoir or ditch. The outlet from the well can be connected to a pond or receiving tank dug into the area.
Stormwater and linear open drainage are only the superficial part of foundation protection. Along the perimeter of buildings on different depths it is necessary to create 3 – 4 types drainage systems. Choosing a method of organization and technical parameters networks depends on the composition of the soil and the depth of the foundation. It’s not worth making deep drainage networks yourself. Calculations should be carried out by specialists, and it is better to install trench branches immediately after pouring the foundation. Even before the start of construction, deep reservoir drainage is installed. Not only the ability of the system to drain water into large quantities, but also the durability of the foundation.
