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» Insulation materials under the subfloor. Insulation of floors in a wooden house and optimal heat insulators. Classic floor design

Insulation materials under the subfloor. Insulation of floors in a wooden house and optimal heat insulators. Classic floor design

Due to the constant increase in pay utilities and the desire to make their homes warmer and more comfortable, owners of apartments and houses are increasingly thinking about insulating floors. The benefits of this procedure are felt almost immediately; the process does not require significant investment, and is facilitated by the fact that wooden house it can be done without dismantling the old floor covering, and is cheaper due to the possibility of constructing it yourself, without spending the planned budget on calling a specialist. The main thing is to decide which of the existing insulation materials is better and how to properly lay the thermal insulation layer.

Why is floor insulation necessary in wooden houses?

An additional layer will not only eliminate the cold walking down your feet and raise the overall temperature in the room, but will also eliminate the following possible problems:

  1. excess moisture;
  2. the appearance of condensation, which causes dampness and leads to the formation of fungus and mold;
  3. occurrence of microorganisms;
  4. the process of rotting in wooden structures.

The combination of these facts allows us to draw a conclusion about the need for insulation.

Technology of work execution

A double floor is a structure implemented on two levels:

  • Chernova- these are boards fixed to beams, on top of which an insulating flooring is supposed.
  • Finishing- a tier used for paving the last layer of insulation.

The general installation technology involves assembling a thermal insulation “pie”:

  • the old floor is being dismantled;
  • auxiliary boards are attached along the bottom, over the entire area;
  • logs of the required size are treated with antiseptic agents to prevent rotting;
  • Prepared logs are laid on top of the supporting layer with a distance of 0.6 or 0.7 m, maximum 1 m.
  • Between them, the selected insulation is placed on the rough layer. If a solid version is used, for example, polystyrene foam, the joints must be treated with silicone, foam or other mixtures to eliminate gaps;
  • A vapor barrier is placed on top of the insulating material, which is mounted to the joists with thin 20x30 bars. To improve the energy-saving effect, the joints are glued with special tape containing metal.
  • Next, the main floor layer is laid.

Also, there are methods that use an improvised mesh, which is a strong plexus of fishing line. It is attached to beams with nails and is used as a “subfloor”; however, over time, such a structure can stretch and sag, thereby making the idea unreliable.

In private houses, when insulating the floor of the first floor, raw materials are laid along joists fixed on small brick elevations, while laying waterproofing and plank cladding between them.

How to choose the right thermal insulation material

Selection good stuff- an important part in the process of forming insulation. There are several basic parameters to consider.

  • Weight materials are not so important for owners of one-story wooden houses. Such buildings, by themselves, are light in weight and create minimum load on the foundation. This parameter is relevant only for high-rise buildings with wooden floors.
  • Moisture resistance take into account if insulation is carried out in places with high humidity - saunas, bathrooms or kitchens, as well as in regions characterized by humid climatic conditions.
  • Duration of operation directly affects how often the owner will need to carry out repair work to restore the coating.
  • Thermal conductivity- one of the most current issues, this indicator determines how much heat will be retained inside the home.
  • Difficulty of installation sometimes it is a determining factor. Everyone wants the insulation process to be as quick and easy as possible. The material is chosen accordingly.
  • Availability of a basement or base requires a thicker layer of insulation, which will become a significant barrier to cold air.
  • Ceiling height often limits the choice of insulation. In small rooms you will have to limit yourself to a thin layer to save space.
  • Period of residence in the building. If this is a dacha or garden house, in which you appear once a month, you should not overpay and put a thick layer of expensive building materials on the floor.
  • Fire resistance important for wooden houses. The thermal insulator should not support combustion, nor should it emit an unpleasant odor when heating the house in the summer.

You need to choose products depending on the above parameters, as well as their cost and the budget allocated for insulation work.

Popular types of thermal insulation materials

Practicality and ease of use are one of the main criteria when selecting raw materials for home insulation. Today, the line of such products is represented by a wide range for any need. Solid types insulations are used on flat surfaces, while soft and flexible ones can be used in finishing almost any surface.

In rolls

The main components of such products are mineral wool and crushed cork. This form of insulation is characterized by softness, low specific gravity, and low density. This allows it to be mounted on all types of planes, including curved and torn ones with large differences. There are no joining seams during installation, which makes it possible to avoid cold bridges.

In slabs

Insulation in the form of slabs is very convenient in terms of installation if the dimensions of the openings that need to be insulated are known in advance, for example, in the inter-rafter area of ​​the attic or between the joists in the floor. It is lightweight and does not change its dimensions during installation. It has a low thermal conductivity coefficient.

This type of insulation is a special mixture, which, when interacting with air, changes its structure from liquid to foam, and then hardens. With this product you can fill almost all the necessary places, including the most difficult to reach ones. One of the common representatives is penoizol. It is applied to the surface using special equipment, filling all the irregularities and flaws. The disadvantages of this type of material include its rather high cost.

The main component here is materials in the form of small loose particles, such as slag, wood waste in the form of sawdust or expanded clay. They fill all cavities very well and allow for good sound insulation. They are laid both on a regular primer and on a pre-prepared base. It is considered quite budget-friendly and is ideally suited for thermal insulation of floors made with wood.

The most popular materials for insulation

Nowadays, construction stores offer dozens of options for raw materials for all types of insulation. Therefore, there is no need to think long about the question of what is the best way to insulate the floor in the house. You just need to choose the most optimal one that can solve your problem and at the same time will not hit you too hard. family budget. The list of the most popular similar products is as follows:

Polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam

It has many advantages, including excellent thermal insulation, light weight, ease of installation and, most importantly, moisture protection and complete vapor tightness. Due to the latter quality, it is recommended for use in basements. The thickness of the finish depends on the climate zone, but on average it is 5-15 cm. Thermal insulation characteristics it directly depends on the density - the higher the coefficient, the better it will protect your home from the cold. Such materials have one more advantage - if you want to insulate your house cheaply, do this using polystyrene foam.

Mineral wool

Characteristics inherent this insulation, do not allow its use in concrete screeds. But for sound insulation and insulation of wooden floors, it is perfect. Between the first and ground floors the thermal insulation layer should be 20-30 cm. For other floors, a layer of 10-20 cm will be sufficient.

Ecowool

Once an innovative material, today it has gained high popularity. It is produced by shredding paper and paper waste with further treatment with antiseptics. Due to the substances it contains, this ecowool cannot be used on the ground, but for interfloor ceilings on beams it will be the best option. In the latter case, the layer is placed at 20-30 cm.

A very expensive insulation with a lot of advantages. Due to its structure, it can easily fill all cavities. Its use is not recommended for thermal insulation of floor beams.

Foam glass

An innovative product obtained by foaming quartz sand. The specific gravity of such raw materials is low, it has excellent noise and vapor barrier characteristics, and is capable of withstanding enormous loads without changing its original shape.

Expanded clay

Material that has come to us from time immemorial. Just 20-30 years ago it was one of the most popular and used. Now its popularity is falling due to its large dimensions. The height of the ceilings, especially between floors, does not always allow for the distance required for laying expanded clay.

Fibrolite

It is a complex mixture of cement, wood and liquid glass. The main advantage of such a heat insulator, in addition to retaining precious heat in the house, is considered to be a high degree of sound absorption. Its laying on the ground is limited, however, for the layer between floors, it would be the best option. Between the basement and the first tier it is necessary to provide a thickness of 15 cm; for subsequent levels 10 cm is enough.

Sawdust

Insulation with sawdust cannot be considered the most effective and high-quality way to preserve heat in a home, since to achieve the required indicators, it is necessary to provide a layer of at least 30 cm. However, it is still used in attics or for the manufacture of more complex materials.

Izolon

This is polyethylene brought to a foamed state, characterized by a low thermal conductivity at minimum thickness. At the same time, it is also a sound insulator, which makes its use popular between floors of a building. Isolon is laid not “joint to joint”, but with an overlap, and the seams are treated with bitumen mastic.

Penofol

The latest modern development, whose action is based on shielding. The reflective surface helps to effectively retain heat, and the ultra-thin and plastic structure allows the use of penofol in the most difficult to reach places.

How to insulate a floor in a wooden house yourself

A house built from wood can be made according to different technologies depending on the wishes of the owner, climatic conditions, proximity of groundwater, etc. Therefore, the methods used for floor insulation also differ. The following are the most common of them.

Remember that major work on a wooden building can only be carried out after its complete shrinkage, which lasts at least 1 year. If fresh saw cuts were used during construction, the process can take up to 5 years.

With low underground

Since it is impossible to carry out work from below from the basement due to the low ceiling height, the existing flooring will have to be dismantled, which makes the method labor-intensive. If replacing the flooring is not part of your plans, then you need to carry out the work carefully so as not to damage it and avoid problems during the re-installation process.

  • Inspect the appearance of the joists and remove those that are damaged or have defects, and replace them with bars of the same size. Use self-tapping screws to connect structural elements.
  • Next, you need to start preparing the subfloor. To do this, take an unedged board and split it into pieces that will be smaller than the lag pitch, by about 1-2 cm. This is necessary so that the parts are not laid end-to-end.
  • When the assembly of the subfloor is completed, it is necessary to cover the flooring and logs on top with a vapor barrier layer.
  • Afterwards, install the logs to construct the finished floor and place the selected insulation between them, covering it with another layer of vapor barrier.
  • Determine whether you need additional counter-lattice. If there is a gap of 20 mm without it, feel free to lay previously dismantled floorboards.

If you work in a room with high humidity, replace the vapor barrier layer with a waterproofing layer.

A similar principle is used to insulate the floor in a wooden house on screw piles, except that between wooden base(with a mounted skeleton) and thermal insulation, a layer of wind protection is laid, which is necessary to prevent weathering of the insulating raw materials.

Above the cellar

With this task, it will be convenient to carry out work in a non-standard way and insulate the floor from the underground:

  • To do this, you need to go down into the cellar and attach a moisture-proof film from below to the ceiling.
  • Next, a beam or thin sheathing is attached to both sides of the beams, but if the room is damp, a galvanized plasterboard profile is used.
  • The insulation is cut to a size slightly larger than the lag pitch (up to 30 mm), due to which it fits tightly between them, leaving no gaps.
  • Transverse slats are attached to the previously fixed support beam or the material used instead of it to support the insulator, a waterproofing tier is applied to them and finishing coat at the discretion of the owner.

According to this scheme, insulation is also installed on the side of the first floor.

On a concrete underground

In a wooden house with concrete floors, the insulation process can be carried out in two ways: traditionally - on joists and by installing a screed. The choice depends only on the funds allocated for materials and work. More often they choose the first option - due to the speed of its implementation, where the final result is a plank floor covering.

It is much easier to make a concrete slab warm - it initially has a flat surface, and the weight of the entire insulating layer does not matter.

Using the first method, it is necessary to install a sheathing on the concrete, replacing the logs, using bars. It is between them that the insulation will be located. The boards are fastened with anchors. Their thickness depends on the type of insulation, so you need to make all measurements in advance. Upon completion, the finishing floor is laid. A layer of vapor barrier is laid between the wooden structure and the ceiling. If the latter is not available, you can use thin plastic film.

Insulation reinforced concrete slab under the screed is even easier. The best option for thermal insulation is polystyrene foam or the so-called “Penoplex”. It is attached to reinforced concrete, and all the resulting cracks are blown in with foam. Next, either a screed of reinforcing mesh and concrete is installed, or a flooring of OSB, plasterboard or plywood is laid, on which the finishing coating is subsequently mounted.

The above preparation is suitable for the formation of a “warm floor” system of any type: electric or water.

If you use a layer of expanded clay instead of polystyrene, you can significantly reduce the cost of the structure. The layer of supernova isolon and penofol will be reliable and of high quality.

Arrangement of a double floor

It should be noted that this option is only suitable for rooms with high ceilings, in small rooms, it will take up significantly a lot of space (up to 20 cm).

But on the other hand, such technology will make it possible to insulate the floor in an old wooden house without dismantling the existing floor. To implement it you will need:

  • Dismantle the baseboards and prepare the supporting surface - replace damaged areas, seal cracks and cracks with foam.
  • By analogy with other options, after forming a high-quality subfloor, logs are laid in increments of 60-90 cm. If the floor covering is planned from OSB, 30-40 cm will be enough.
  • In this case, you need to use a level and, in places of inconsistencies, file the upper edges of the beams with a plane.
  • After ensuring a flat surface, the base is covered with a moisture-proofing layer with a 10-centimeter margin for the walls.
  • The selected type of insulation is laid between the joists and covered with waterproofing.
  • Afterwards, the flooring and the selected cladding option are installed.
  • At the very end, the missing baseboards are screwed in - in this way you can install insulation on top without opening the floor.

Regardless of which insulation is chosen: bulk, roll, slab, it is important to leave a gap between it and the floor covering for ventilation. If the height of the logs is not enough for this, a counter-lattice is formed.

Floor board thickness, mm Distance between lags, cm
1 20 30
2 25 40
3 30 50
4 35 60
5 40 70
6 45 80
7 50 100

Results

Now you know how to properly insulate the floor in your house. Assess the height of the room, inspect the condition of the existing flooring, plan methods and decide on a heat insulator in advance. Choose only high-quality materials from trusted manufacturers and strictly follow the instructions when carrying out work - then the structure will serve you and future generations reliably and for a long time.

How to insulate a floor video instructions















Heat loss is not always associated with the thermal conductivity coefficient of the material; very often the reason for this is different temperatures in the basement and on the first floor of the house. Thermal insulation of the floor in a wooden house prevents heat leakage, thereby reducing heating costs. High-quality floor insulation in a wooden house can be done with making the right choice isolation.


This is what an insulated floor looks like in section Source pol-exp.com

Why is floor insulation necessary in wooden houses?

It is very rare to find wooden houses with high-quality thermal insulation of the floor, ensuring a comfortable stay even in very coldy. In most cases, cold floors are a fairly common phenomenon in wooden buildings.

This happens according to the laws of physics from the school course, according to which heavier cold air accumulates below. Lack of thermal insulation on the floor or disruption of the insulation process causes the formation of cold bridges between dried boards.

This phenomenon contributes to the loss of almost a quarter of thermal resources.

Video description

The advisability of floor insulation is clearly shown in the video:

Based on this, we can say with confidence that an insulated wooden floor eliminates the following problems:

    Increased humidity in the room.

    Low temperature inside the building.

    Accumulation of condensation, which causes mold to form.

    The appearance of harmful microorganisms.

    Formation of rot inside wood structures.

The combination of these factors encourages the homeowner to start insulating a wooden floor, and to do the work according to all the rules.


Laying thermal insulation in interfloor ceilings Source 1000sovetov.ru

The result of the actions taken will be a comfortable and cozy stay, and most importantly, leakage of thermal resources and corresponding costs will be reduced. Thermal insulation can be carried out not only in old buildings, but also in buildings being commissioned.

How to choose the right thermal insulation material

Owners of private buildings often wonder whether floor insulation is needed in a wooden house, and which one is better to purchase to get a greater effect. The selection of material for this purpose can be called a rather crucial moment, so it is important to adhere to the following:

    Weight of materials. Owners of private wooden houses do not make much sense to take this characteristic into account, since their houses themselves do not create a large load on the foundation strip or pad. It is necessary to know the mass of the material only when working in multi-story buildings, where too heavy insulation will put additional stress on the floor slabs.

    Moisture resistance. Most often, this criterion is looked at when finishing “wet” rooms - a bathroom or kitchen. You should also take this into account when building a house in latitudes with a humid climate.

    Operational life. This parameter directly determines how many times and after what time the homeowner will carry out work related to repairing or replacing the floor.


The packaging of high-quality and certified materials always indicates their full characteristics Source remont-system.ru

    Thermal conductivity index. The lower the value of this parameter, the more heat will be retained in the house.

    The degree of complexity of laying the material. Every master dreams of simplified installation work Therefore, the simpler the installation of insulation, the better.

    Availability basement or ground floor. If there is an unheated room under the insulated floor, then it is important to choose thicker thermal insulation.

    Ceiling height. Laying insulation is always accompanied by a decrease usable space, therefore, in rooms with low ceilings it is better to opt for thinner insulation.

    Features of use. Permanent or temporary residence also determines the thickness of the insulation.

    Fire resistance. It is very important that thermal insulation material was resistant to fire or at least did not support combustion. In addition, it should not emit harmful gases when heated.

In our catalog, you can find a list of companies specializing in finishing materials and works, among the houses presented at the exhibition is Low-Rise Country.

Popular types of thermal insulation materials

Ease of use is one of the most important criteria for choosing materials. Some of them are hard and can only be used on flat surfaces, while others are successfully used for thermal insulation of areas of complex shape. Before insulating the floor in a wooden house, you should choose the most suitable look insulation.


When choosing a material, you must take into account the conditions under which it will have to be laid. Source pro-uteplenie.ru

Insulation in rolls

Insulation materials are supplied in this form, the base of which is balsa wood or mineral wool. The physical characteristics of these materials (softness and reduced density) make it possible to lay thermal insulation not only on a perfectly flat surface without any particular difficulties. Roll insulation can be laid with the smallest number of joints, which increases the degree of thermal insulation. In most cases, this type of insulation is afraid high humidity, therefore, when laying it you should take care of waterproofing. Sometimes rolled materials have an outer foil layer that protects the material from moisture.


Rolls are easy to unwind on a flat surface Source kak-sdelat-fundament.ru

Plate materials

These are lightweight insulation slabs or mats that cannot change shape during installation. They are characterized by low thermal conductivity and low weight. Easily mounted on surfaces with minor errors.


The slabs can be laid alone Source zoubi.net

Liquid polymer thermal insulation

This type is a special composition that, when exposed to air, forms a hard foam structure. With the help of such thermal insulation, all hard to reach places and errors. Among the well-known representatives of this type of insulation is penoizol, which is applied to the surface from a spray can using a special sprayer. The only drawback liquid insulation materials you can call it a high price.


Liquid insulation sticks to any surface Source alio.lt

Loose thermal insulation

This type of insulation is represented by bulk materials such as slag, expanded clay or sawdust. They fill the required volume quite tightly, and installation is possible both on a pre-arranged base and on ordinary soil.

When using such insulation, you will have to install additional beams for the finishing coating and, as a result, raise the floor level.

When choosing a method for insulating a wooden floor covering, you should be guided by the efficiency of using the material and the financial benefits.


Least labor costs on flat surfaces Source kakpostroit.su

Popular materials for insulating wood flooring

Usually you don’t have to look long for the best way to insulate the floor in a wooden house - in construction stores big choice diverse different materials and all that remains is to choose the appropriate one, based on their characteristics.

Polystyrene foam and polystyrene foam

In addition to good thermal insulation, one of the main characteristics of these materials is their vapor permeability, so it is most effective to use them for insulating the floor of the first floor or basement. Under normal conditions in mid-latitudes, it is enough to use slabs 5-13 cm thick. If you take thinner slabs, then over time the savings will be offset by increased heating costs.


Working with foam plastic Source nehomesdeaf.org

Mineral wool

The properties of this material do not allow its use in floor screeds on the ground. But the wooden floors, insulated mineral wool, boast an increased service life. It is recommended to insulate the floor between the basement and the first floor with a material whose thickness is 20-30 cm. More high floors insulated with materials 10-15 cm thick.

Video description

The procedure for working with mineral wool in the video:

Ecowool

The material is produced from shredded waste paper and cardboard packaging with further impregnation with fire retardants and antiseptics. Ecowool cannot be used for insulation on the ground due to its low density, but for floors on beams the material is considered the best option. In this case, the thickness of the floor insulation in a wooden house can be 20-25 cm.


Ecowool backfill Source teplo-izol.ru

Foamed polymers

The main difference is high price compared to other insulation materials. Can't be named efficient use this insulation on the floor and ceilings along the beams. Therefore, it is best to use foamed polymer thermal insulation materials for thin-layer structures under floor coverings.


Before installing the finished floor Source rmnt.mirtesen.ru

Foam glass

The material is obtained by foaming quartz sand. The mass of such insulation is much less than that of dry wood. The main advantages of the material include good vapor barrier properties, the ability to withstand heavy loads without changing shape or loss quality characteristics, as well as good sound insulation.

Foam glass is produced in slabs that can withstand the weight of a heavy-duty vehicle, or in granules for backfilling wooden floors.

The standard density of the material is 150 kg/m³, allowing it to be used for insulating the basement floor and ceilings located above. In this case, the thickness of the thermal insulation should be 18 cm and 15 cm, respectively.


Foam glass slabs Source remontami.ru

Expanded clay

Recently, this insulation has begun to be used much less frequently due to the appearance on construction market more effective thermal insulation materials. Some characteristics require an increase in the thermal insulation layer by 4-6 times compared to stone wool or ecowool. The ceiling on beams cannot always accommodate such a volume of insulation.


Expanded clay needs a lot of space Source obustroeno.com

Fibrolite

This type of insulation is obtained by mixing cement powder, liquid glass and wood wool. The advantage of such thermal insulation of the floor in a wooden house is the ability to dampen noise of various origins, as well as significant heat retention when pasting this type of insulation load-bearing walls Houses. The high hygroscopicity of the material limits its use in floors on the ground, but for insulating floors along beams and for creating multi-layer pies wooden structures it fits perfectly. The insulation of the floors between the basement and the first floor is carried out with a layer of 15 cm; for the upper floors, 10 cm of insulation is sufficient.


Fiberboard boards Source 2gis.ru

Sawdust

Such isolation cannot be called the most effective way insulation of residential premises, since to reduce heat loss it is necessary to lay a layer at least 30 cm thick. Therefore, sawdust is most often used in non-residential attic spaces. Recently, sawdust has been used in the production of highly effective thermal insulation and materials with similar characteristics.


Leveling the sawdust layer Source ar.decorexpro.com

Izolon

This thermal insulation, made from polyethylene foam, has a low thermal conductivity coefficient, even with a thickness of 0.2-1 cm. This quality makes the material indispensable for insulating wooden floors. Other advantages include good sound insulation, which makes laying additional sound-proofing layers unnecessary. When using isolon, it is necessary to lay it not end-to-end, but with overlapping strips; the resulting seams are treated with polymer glue or bitumen mastic.


Isolon rolls Source nadoremont.com

Penofol

The material is roll insulation new generation. This lightweight and easy-to-use material provides shielding that prevents the dispersion of radiant energy. Heat is retained due to the reflective layer, which makes the material especially popular for insulating floors between floors. Advantages include the ability to withstand heavy loads, low thermal conductivity and easy installation.


The thickness and flexibility of Penefol allows it to be used in difficult places Source chrome-effect.ru

Comparing the properties and features of use, we can conclude that for wooden elements it is better to choose vapor-permeable materials, and in other cases use high-density insulation.

Procedure for installing thermal insulation

Before insulating the floor in a wooden house, it is important to familiarize yourself with the general rules for carrying out the work.

Video description

First of all, you need to understand what you can’t do – you can see this clearly in the video:

And the insulation process itself occurs as follows:

    First you need to remove the baseboard and remove the old floor. However, you need to be careful not to buy new material.

    Open floor beams are inspected for rotten elements that must be replaced. Attach new ones wooden parts It is best to use galvanized self-tapping screws that are not subject to corrosion.

    It is best to attach the support beam from below the joist.

    The rough flooring is made from an unedged board, the length of which corresponds to the distance between the joists or is 2 cm less than this parameter. The rough floor is not laid closely, and the beams need not be attached to the elements of this covering.

    Houses located on plots with high level groundwater, very often suffer from high humidity with all the ensuing consequences. Therefore, it is very important to protect floors with roofing felt or glassine. The waterproofing strips are laid overlapping, gluing the joints with tape.

    The insulation is laid on top of the finished floor joists. In addition, another layer of waterproofing is required.

    To create a ventilation gap, counter-battens are nailed on top of the insulation.

    The final stage is laying the new flooring.


Final finishing of the finished floor Source chrome-effect.ru

Whatever material or technology is used, first of all, you must always remember that a high-quality result can only be obtained if the work technology is strictly followed.

Properly done thermal insulation of a wooden floor can significantly reduce heat loss and ultimately significantly save on heating bills. Wood is an excellent material, very well suited for arranging floors in residential premises. But over time, its structure changes, the material begins to gradually deform, which leads to the appearance of cracks through which up to 30% or more of the heat can escape from the house.

The technology for insulating a wooden floor is extremely simple; it can be mastered even without such skills. You just need to understand the main stages of thermal insulation and additional features of working with the most popular insulation materials.

The procedure for installing thermal insulation on a wooden floor remains virtually unchanged for different materials. However, before starting work, you should determine the conditions under which the floor will be used in the future. By them we must understand the expected load on the surface, the main purpose of the room, temperature and humidity indicators.

Be sure to determine the possible height of the floor “pie” in general and the thickness of the insulation in particular.

Insulation work is carried out in the following order:

  • first, wooden logs are installed;
  • boards or wood panels are attached to them from below;
  • The selected heat insulator is installed between the lags. It is recommended to lay the material as tightly as possible. It is customary to use sealant to seal gaps. You can also use foam;
  • A vapor barrier is laid on the laid insulation. Typically polyethylene film is used. The material must be fixed on the joists, and any kind of gaps, various joints, etc. glue with metallized adhesive tape;
  • Finally, it is necessary to lay the plank flooring and perform the finishing touches.

In the process of preparing for work, you should determine optimal thickness heat insulator. Usually it ranges from 5-15 cm and depends mainly on the climate in the region where the building is located and the type of insulation chosen. This parameter is determined individually and is one of the most important.

The procedure for self-insulation by joists

An extremely simple, but very effective and popular method of insulation in private construction is a technology that involves laying insulation boards along joists. This method is especially good for floors that are located a short distance from the ground (first floors and basements).

Having mastered the procedure for installing joists, you will be able to perform insulation using almost all existing insulating materials used for thermal insulation wooden floors.

First you need to prepare or buy ready-made logs with a special T-shape . They are installed on the foundation or secured by cutting into a wooden frame. Elements should be placed at a distance of 60-95 cm from each other.

After installing the logs, proceed to securing boards or wood panels. Thermal insulation will be laid directly on them in the future.

These elements can be secured using special cranial bars or hemmed from below. Thermal insulation material is placed on the flooring. Afterwards it is laid layer of hydro- and vapor barrier.

Depending on the chosen insulation, a heat and moisture protection device may not be necessary. For example, mineral wool needs such protection.

The vapor barrier material should be laid with an overlap of 10-15 cm, bending the edges onto the wall by about 10 cm. The vapor barrier can be done using ordinary polyethylene, or you can buy special materials for this; it all depends solely on the budget and desires of the developer. Lastly, the floorboards are installed. and the planned finishing.

There is also a method in which wooden logs are placed on brick posts. A wood gasket is fixed between the contacting elements. The space between adjacent joists is tightly filled with the selected insulation. It is most convenient to use the material in slab format.

What materials are suitable for floor insulation?

For high-quality insulation of a wooden floor, you can use a wide variety of materials. The most popular and most frequently used thermal insulation materials.

1. Sawdust.

2. Mineral wool and its varieties.

3. Penofol.

4. Foam plastic.

When choosing a specific material, you need to take into account not only the owner’s personal preferences and the thickness of his wallet, but also a number of other significant factors, ignoring which will not allow you to obtain high-quality thermal insulation.

Special attention should be paid to the insulation of such an element as the subfloor. Thermal insulation is carried out along logs. First, wooden blocks are attached to their sides. Next, the boards are fixed using self-tapping screws or ordinary nails. The craftsman needs to cut the boards in advance to the size corresponding to the distance between the lags to be fixed. After installing all the boards and obtaining a complete surface, a vapor barrier material is laid and secured. Polyethylene film is usually used, glassine also works well.

Next, thermal insulation material is placed in the space between the joists. It must be placed without gaps, as tightly as possible. After filling the entire planned space with insulation, a second layer of vapor barrier is laid on top of it and the work is considered complete.

A vapor barrier does not need to be used in all situations. Some insulation materials feel great without it. All these points are clarified individually and depend on the properties of the specific insulation.

Guide to DIY insulation using sawdust

Sawdust is the most affordable and simple view thermal insulation for wooden floors. Their main advantage is their relatively low price, ease of installation, environmental friendliness and absolute safety for human health.

Can be insulated with sawdust even in a clean state. But sometimes various special materials made on the basis of sawdust are used for thermal insulation.

  1. The base is sawdust mixed in certain proportions with cement and copper sulfate. In the case of floor insulation, they are practically not used; they are more suitable for wall finishing.
  2. Granular thermal insulation material made from sawdust and various additives that increase its fire resistance and other properties important properties.
  3. Made from sawdust, water, sand and cement. The most environmentally friendly of all materials considered in this list. Needs high-quality double-sided waterproofing.
  4. Made from cement different brands, sawdust (chips) and chemical additives. Sold in the form of slabs with good sound and heat insulation properties. It does not burn, is extremely easy to pre-assemble, and has good strength properties. It does not tolerate contact with moisture well, so it needs thorough waterproofing.

“Clean” sawdust is most often used. Direct insulation is extremely simple. First, the logs are fixed, as described earlier, and then the space between them is filled with insulation. The material is very convenient, it can be used to fill even the most difficult to reach places. The thickness of the layer should be selected taking into account the climate of a particular region.

Using mineral wool as insulation

Mineral wool is the most common thermal insulation material. Available in many varieties. It does not support combustion, withstands biological and chemical influences, and has good heat and sound insulation characteristics. Disadvantages include weak mechanical strength and mediocre vapor permeability.

Mineral wool must be protected from contact with water, because... under its influence, the thermal insulation qualities of the material deteriorate. In view of this, special attention should be paid to vapor barrier. Also big drawback mineral wool is not environmentally friendly. It is because of this that its use has been actively abandoned recently.

Sold as rigid or flexible slabs, ready to install. You just need to first cut them into elements of the required width. On the harder side, a marking is applied to the slab, usually in the form of a blue stripe. When laying insulation between the joists, this strip should face upward. The insulation is laid in 1 layer.

The advantage of using mineral wool is that this material, in addition to its thermal insulation properties, is characterized by excellent noise-absorbing properties, which is especially important when finishing floors in a multi-story building.

It is one of the most modern, available in the form roll material, consisting of a layer of thermal insulation and reflective material in the form of thin aluminum foil. Thermal insulation layer can be represented by almost anyone existing insulation. The best option is foamed polyethylene.

The insulation can be fixed to almost any base using glue without any problems. Installation is carried out as quickly as possible and without unnecessary difficulties. Places directly on the floor surface. Sheets can be laid end-to-end or overlapped. The joints should be fixed using metallized adhesive tape. Penofol eliminates the need to use moisture and vapor barrier materials, because The material of the second layer – aluminum foil – copes well with this function.

Foam plastic has long been one of the leaders in the insulation market. It is also well suited for insulating wooden floors. It has many advantages, including: good thermal insulation qualities, resistance to rotting, mold formation, damage by insects and rodents. Thanks to its cellular structure, insulation using foam plastic is as effective and durable as possible.

The disadvantages of this insulation include its poor tolerance to contact with moisture, which reduces its thermal insulation properties. Therefore, the installation of insulation must be carried out with a parallel device of high-quality moisture and vapor barrier.

Also, a big disadvantage of polystyrene foam is that it is not environmentally friendly. Here everyone must decide for themselves which thermal insulation properties are more important to them.

Thus, there is nothing complicated about insulating a wooden floor yourself. All work comes down to fixing a certain number of lags and fixing the selected insulation. Knowing the properties of the most popular insulation materials, you can choose the most suitable option specifically for your case and ensure the highest quality insulation of a wooden floor.

Good luck!

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Self-insulation floors in a wooden house - 3 options for high-quality installation

Most modern people associate wooden houses with comfort and warmth. And in principle this is true, because wood is a living, natural, breathing material. But many of my friends methodically step on the same rake, forgetting that insulating the floor in a wooden house is no less important than insulating the walls and roof. In this material, I will first tell you how to insulate the floor in a wooden house with the three most accessible ways, and then I’ll go through personally the use of each type of insulation specifically for wooden buildings.

Design options for floor insulation in wooden houses

Let's start with the fact that modern wooden houses can be built either on light piles or strip foundation, and on a monolithic concrete slab, respectively, the insulation scheme in all these cases will be different.

In addition, floors in wooden houses can be insulated both from below, that is, from the basement side, and from above, from the living room side. Naturally, it’s easier to do all this during the construction of a house, but not everyone is so lucky and sometimes you have to insulate the floors in an old house, which leaves its mark on the technology.

Any major types of work in wooden houses, including insulation of walls and floors, are recommended to be carried out only after the shrinkage of the structure has been completed. And this shrinkage in a house made from dry wood lasts about a year. If freshly cut timber was used for construction, then shrinkage can last up to 5 – 7 years.

Option No. 1. Arrangement of thermal insulation in a house with a low underground

Low underground is a disease of most old houses and cottages. In my experience, almost all owners who bought or somehow received a dacha built the old fashioned way back in Soviet times are faced with a serious problem of cold and often rotten floors.

I will immediately hasten to reassure you, it is not necessary to break everything, if the log house itself is still intact and strong enough, then you can insulate the floor in a wooden house with your own hands in a few days, and for this you do not at all have to be a real builder. It is enough to confidently use a hacksaw, drill and hammer.

As you probably already guessed, if a private house has a low underground floor, then the floors will have to be insulated from above. And for this we need to disassemble the entire structure completely, leaving only the load-bearing logs;

If the boards and baseboards of the finished floor are in good condition, and you are not in the mood to completely change them, then when you tear down the flooring, be sure to draw yourself a sketch of the masonry and number each board. This will significantly save your energy and time when you start putting everything back in its place.

  • When you have free access to the joists, the first thing to do is to carefully examine the condition of the wood. Logs are a load-bearing structure, so they must be strong and reliable. If the number of rotten logs does not exceed 20-30%, then it is worth tinkering with their restoration;
  • In general, according to the rules, the damaged beam must be completely removed and the same one installed in its place. But this work is not for an amateur; there are too many small, professional subtleties. When I first encountered the problem of partially replacing a load-bearing beam, I did it simply. -I cut out the rotten sector, and in its place inserted the same part of a healthy beam.
    I secured this sector with self-tapping screws using 4 standard metal corners 35 mm, making an overlap of about 50 cm on the old beam. But if you don’t have corners at hand, you can stuff it on both sides regular board about 30 mm thick;
  • Now you can start arranging the subfloor. Opinions on how to do this correctly among builders vary. The classic technology looks something like this: on both sides of each joist, along the lower edge, a so-called load-bearing cranial beam is packed. I recommend taking a cross-section of at least 30x30 mm; if you take it thinner, it may not withstand the load or burst from a nail or screw;

  • The distance between the lags often fluctuates around 50 - 70 cm. In our version, the subfloor will be assembled from planks laid on the cranial beam, perpendicular to the lags. Therefore, we will first need to cut these boards and soak them well with an antiseptic, since they are located directly above the ground.
    Not suitable for these purposes edged board about 20 - 30 mm thick. The question of what can be impregnated with can be easily resolved: the market is full of various impregnations, but I took the simplest route, dipping each board in used machine oil;
  • I am often asked whether subfloor planks need to be secured to joists or to a supporting skull beam. So, as far as I have seen and done myself, these planks are simply laid on the cranial beam and that’s it.
    Moreover, when you measure and cut the strips, they need to be made 10 - 15 mm narrower than the gap between the joists. This tolerance is necessary to compensate for temperature and humidity deformations of wood;

  • Further, the instructions instruct to lay a layer of hydro or vapor barrier on the subfloor. The difference is this: if the soil under the house is dry and there is no heavy spring flooding in your area, then it is necessary to install a vapor barrier membrane, and so that steam freely leaves the insulation, but in no case penetrates from the soil into the insulation.
    Waterproofing is installed in places with high groundwater levels and on wet soils. Technical polyethylene or roofing felt is most often used as waterproofing. Any of these membranes is covered with a continuous layer of overlap, over the joists, so that the subfloor is completely covered, without any gaps or cracks. I usually fix such a fabric with a stapler;
  • The insulation you choose is placed in the resulting improvised boxes. How it is possible, as well as the best way to insulate the floor in a wooden house, I will tell you in detail a little later, now we will not dwell on this;

  • The presence or absence of a vapor barrier on top of the insulation is determined by what materials were chosen for insulation. But in any case, there should be a small ventilation gap of 20 - 30 mm between the finished wooden flooring and the insulation layer.
    To do this, if possible, install the insulation slightly below the top cut of the joist. If this is not possible and the material is laid flush with the joists, then you will have to fill the wooden counter lathing perpendicular to the joists, in increments of 30 - 40 cm.
    Moreover, hydro or vapor barrier, if needed, must be under the counter lathing. Otherwise, if the finishing wooden floor do not provide proper ventilation from below, the boards will sooner or later begin to deteriorate;
  • The top layer, of course, is the finishing wooden covering.

Option No. 2. Insulate the floor above the cellar

Proper insulation of the floor below in a wooden house is, in general, carried out using a similar technology, but believe me, doing it is much easier. After all, provided that the finishing coating is in normal condition, you do not need to disassemble it. Otherwise, the technology is the same, only all actions are performed in reverse.

  • According to the rules, in order to ensure that the insulation does not “stick” to the finished floor and the necessary ventilation gap remains, it is necessary to fill a small 20-30 mm cranial block in the upper part of the joist, at the border with the finished floor. But to be honest, I never do that.
    It is much easier to secure the vapor barrier membrane with a stapler, just below the finished floor. Nobody forces you to measure everything precisely, the main thing is that there is a ventilation gap;
  • I also don’t see much point in installing the cranial beam and hemming the subfloor from planks on the basement ceiling using the previous technology. After laying the insulation in the niches so that it does not fall out immediately, I put a number of small nails on the joists and stretch several strings of fishing line or wire;

  • Further from below, using the same stapler, the waterproofing sheet is attached to the joists. And on top of this canvas, to strengthen the structure, an unedged board or common croaker. If the basement is damp and there is often water in it, then it makes sense to sew a galvanized profile for drywall onto the ceiling instead of an unedged board. I usually attach it in increments of 20 - 30 cm, in any case, it is only needed so that the insulation does not fall out.

The second floor, or rather the wooden one, is being built using a similar technology. interfloor covering between the first and second floor along the logs. The only difference is that instead of a subfloor layer, most often, some kind of sheet material, such as plywood or drywall.

Option No. 3. We insulate the floor of a wooden house standing on a concrete slab

Solid floor in a wooden house concrete base can be insulated using two technologies: installation on joists and arrangement of screeds. The choice depends on what end result you want to see and how much money you are willing to spend on it all. Most often in such houses the first option is used, according to which at the finish you get a covering made of natural floorboards.

Compared to the two previous options, a concrete slab, in my opinion, is much easier to insulate. As a rule, such a base initially has an absolutely flat plane; in addition, the weight of the insulating structure itself does not matter here.

According to the first method, you need to mount a wooden sheathing on the slab. It will replace those very load-bearing logs for us.

Only first the concrete must be covered with a layer of waterproofing. In this case, technical polyethylene is quite sufficient. The thickness of the bars for the sheathing depends on the type of insulation.

For a full-fledged floorboard with a thickness of 40 mm or more, the step for laying the sheathing guides ranges from 50 to 70 cm. In the case where it is planned to cover the floor with thick plywood or OSB, the step is about 30 to 40 cm.

The sheathing bars are attached to the concrete slab with anchors. After that, just like when installing from above, insulation is laid in the niches, and a finishing coating is sewn on top of it.

Insulating a concrete slab under a screed is made even easier. Looking a little ahead, I will say, best insulation here is extruded polystyrene foam, better known in our country as “Penoplex”. I’ll talk about its capabilities later, but now let’s get back to the technology.

So this Penoplex is laid in a continuous layer on a flat concrete slab, attached to it and all the cracks are filled with foam. After which you can choose: either lay a metal reinforcing mesh on it and pour a screed, or arrange a flooring made of plywood, OSB or plasterboard and install a laminate on it using floating technology.

If you are interested in a workpiece for a “warm floor” system, then for both the electric and water versions, a base made of extruded polystyrene foam is perfect.

In addition to extruded polystyrene foam, such a floor can be insulated with expanded clay. Of course, you will have to tinker more, but the price of such insulation will be disproportionately less.

The technology here is about the same. Initially, the concrete is covered waterproofing film with an approach to the walls, just above the final coating. Next, a layer of expanded clay is poured and leveled horizontally.

You can put reinforcement on the expanded clay and pour cement-sand mortar, this will be a wet screed. Or lay a double layer of plywood, OSB or plasterboard, this is already called a dry floating screed.

Choosing insulation

We figured out how to make the insulation itself, now it remains to find out which insulation for the floor in a wooden house is more suitable in a given situation. To make it easier for you to understand, I have conditionally divided all the materials into 2 large areas:

  1. Budget, that is, not expensive;
  2. And what is now called new technology, accordingly, their cost is an order of magnitude higher.

Traditional budget insulation

  • Wooden sawdust is deservedly considered the patriarch in this direction. It’s not hard to guess that the price for them is a pittance; if you try really hard, you can even get them for free. But in order for this material to be used as insulation, it must be well prepared. Otherwise, after a couple of months the sawdust will simply begin to rot.

First of all, remember, sawdust must sit in a dry place for at least a year; freshly sawn material is not suitable. And in order to prevent mice from setting up a hostel in this insulation, you need to add slaked lime there.

Since we're talking about self-cooking, then I will take the liberty of giving you the 2 most popular recipes:

  1. For the floor, the bulk option is best. Here, 8 parts of dry sawdust will need to be thoroughly mixed with two parts of dry slaked lime powder; in stores, such lime is called fluff. In principle, the material is ready, now it can be poured into the space between the rough and finished floors.
    Only to achieve the expected effect, in middle lane For our great homeland, this layer should be no less than 150 - 200 mm. And in the northern regions it can reach up to 300 and even 400 mm;

  1. It is much easier to work with slabs. But these slabs will need to be made first. The solution contains, in addition to sawdust, the same fluff, and cement is added as a binder. The standard proportion is 8/1/1 (sawdust/lime/cement).
    Naturally, all this is abundantly moistened and mixed well. When the solution is ready, it is poured into molds and lightly compacted. IN warm time years, in about a week the slabs will dry and be ready for use. It is possible to lay the wet mixture directly into the floor, but in this case you will not be able to sew up the final covering, because you will have to wait a couple of weeks until the solution is completely dry.

  • Our second number is expanded clay. This material is used quite widely in our country. Expanded clay is granules of foamed and fired clay. The material is porous, lightweight, strong and durable.
    Its only drawback is its hygroscopicity; expanded clay is capable of absorbing moisture. This leads to the conclusion that expanded clay requires mandatory installation of waterproofing.
    As for the depth of insulation, it is approximately the same as that of wood sawdust. To arrange the floor in a wooden house, you should use 2 fractions of expanded clay, gravel and sand. This will make your mound more dense;

  • But perhaps the most popular floor insulation in the budget sector is polystyrene foam. The material is comfortable in almost all respects. In the underground, protected from all sides, the foam will lie indefinitely. Where sawdust or expanded clay needs to be filled with a thickness of at least 150 mm, it is enough to install foam plastic with a thickness of only 50 mm.
    This insulation is absolutely indifferent to moisture and waterproofing is installed here only to protect the wood itself. To install it, you only need to cut the slab exactly to the size of the niche, insert it and fill the gaps with polyurethane foam.
    In a wooden house, the weak point of the foam embedded in the floor is rodents. They really love to build their nests in it and it is almost impossible to fight this using folk methods;

  • It would be unfair to skip such a common insulation material as mineral wool. You can’t call it completely cheap, but there are several inexpensive models in the line. In particular, glass wool and soft mineral wool mats are not expensive.

But to be honest, I don’t recommend them to you, this material cakes quickly, mice love it, and when wet it completely loses its qualities. No matter how hard you try, soft cotton wool will have to be changed approximately once every 10 years.

There are also mineral wool ones basalt slabs, they are more expensive, but their density and quality are much higher. I recommend that if you install wool, then use only slabs about 100 m thick.

Of all the above budget options only sawdust and polystyrene are considered flammable insulation materials. Expanded clay and cotton wool are the standard of fire safety.

New technologies

  • Among newfangled insulation materials, extruded polystyrene foam is now breaking all records of popularity. It is a modern derivative of polystyrene foam, both materials are made from styrene granules, the only difference is in technology.
    Extruded polystyrene foam boards have a closed cell structure. As a result, the material does not let in not only moisture, but even steam. Essentially, we are dealing with a good waterproofing material. I already mentioned above that Penoplex can be laid in a screed, this is due to the fantastic strength of extruded polystyrene foam.
    If this material can be used to insulate airfields, roads and concrete foundations, then there is nothing to say about the strength of a small wooden house. In addition, mice are not particularly fond of it either;

  • Our next number is the so-called ecowool. It consists of approximately 80% cellulose, the remaining 20% ​​is fire retardants and antiseptics. Ecowool is not very expensive to produce, because cellulose is obtained from shredded waste paper.
    I think the high price here is more due to the fact that the material is new. There are two ways to install such insulation. If you are interested in self-installation, then the cotton wool is simply poured into the floor cells and fluffed with a construction mixer.
    But it is better to order machine blowing. In this case, the cotton wool is blown onto any surface, including vertical and overhanging surfaces, using a compressor. Ecowool has one advantage over other modern insulation materials: if you are confident in the high-quality installation of the rough and finished floor, then in old houses you can simply make a hole and blow out the entire subfloor with ecowool through it;

  • Polyurethane foam is quite expensive. It is impossible to apply this material to any surface with your own hands; it requires professional equipment and specialists with appropriate qualifications.
    In terms of its characteristics, polyurethane foam is close to extruded polystyrene foam, but it will not withstand screed. The best option here is foaming the floor from below in a wet basement. The fact is that the foam will hermetically seal the tree from below, and the warranty period for such insulation starts at 30 years;

  • Penoizol will cost less than polyurethane foam. But it also requires specialists to apply it. Personally, in the case of floor insulation in a wooden house, I don’t see much point in paying for such material. After all, in essence, penoizol is the same polystyrene foam, only in liquid form. Of all the advantages, the only advantages are quick installation and a sealed continuous coating;

  • Lastly, I wanted to talk about the so-called isolon. To explain in a nutshell, isolon is polyethylene foam. It can be covered on one or both sides with foil, and also come without foil coating. But it is difficult to call it an independent insulation for the floor in a wooden house; most models have a thickness of up to 10 mm.
    With such a thickness, isolon can only be used as an auxiliary coating. In particular, it is used when installing electric heated floors. Or sometimes they additionally cover the cotton wool. Foil-coated isolon is a good waterproofing material and personally, I often install it instead of the top insulating layer under the final coating.

Conclusion

Insulating the floor in a wooden house with your own hands is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. If you choose the right insulation and prepare well, then the floors in a medium-sized house can be installed in a maximum of a week. In the photos and videos in this article I have included additional information on the topic of insulation. If you have any questions, write them in the comments, I will try to help.

A home built with one’s own hands is the pride of every owner. In such a house everything is done for comfortable and comfortable life. In order to feel warm and cozy in any weather, you should pay close attention to all stages of construction, especially to laying the floor. A wooden house should be warm in frosty winters and cool in hot summers.

Even the most professional and high-quality work on laying the floor leaves small gaps between the boards, which inevitably leads to heat loss, and also disrupts the air circulation under the joists, which is necessary in wooden building. Up to 30% of the heat escapes through such cracks, which will significantly lower the room temperature and increase energy consumption for heating.

Helpful information:

Selection of material and calculation of its required thickness

Before you buy material for thermal insulation, carefully study the existing range. What it is made of, standard sizes, properties, and manufacturer’s brand will be of great importance here. Keep in mind that the material in mats will have greater density and elasticity than in rolls. Consider the thermal conductivity of the material, its specific gravity, dimensional stability and vapor permeability. Many manufacturers place this information on the packaging of their products.

You will have to apply several formulas. Calculation of the required thermal insulation thickness =RxA. The values ​​for the coefficient R (total thermal resistance of the building structure) can be found in the tables to the SNiP appendix “Thermal protection of buildings”. Building codes and regulations - a set of basic regulatory requirements and provisions. There you can see all the values ​​you are interested in. For example, the value of the thermal conductivity coefficient is A. All parameters should be collected taking into account the requirements of SNiP. It is necessary to calculate the parameters of the permissible load on the floor. In the tables you will also find values ​​for calculating the so-called temporary loads (furniture, equipment, people and animals). The total height of the entire structure is calculated. The humidity and temperature inside the house are taken into account. You can also use an online calculator for calculations.

The main stages of floor insulation work

  1. Installation of a structure with wooden joists on a leveled floor surface
  2. Installation of waterproofing and rough flooring from boards or panels
  3. Laying insulation between the joists (filling the joints with foam or sealant)
  4. Laying material that provides reliable vapor barrier
  5. Manufacturing wooden flooring, onto which the final finishing coating can then be installed.

The insulation layer is “sealed” between the layers of waterproofing and vapor barrier.
The vapor barrier will protect the thermal insulation from the formation of condensation and steam from inside premises. The vapor barrier material is a film, which is additionally fixed with special metal tape. There are the following types of film vapor barrier: polyethylene and polypropylene.

When used for wooden floors, film material requires an air gap.

Polyethylene film vapor barrier

  • Perforated film (can be used as a waterproofing agent)
  • Non-perforated film (for vapor barrier in wooden houses, not tear-resistant)
  • With an aluminum layer (for rooms with high humidity)
  • Reinforced (a reinforced layer is placed between two layers of polyethylene)

Polypropylene vapor barrier

  • Non-reinforced film (cheap, but not practical material)
  • Reinforced film (viscose and cellulose - additional reinforcing reinforced layer). During installation, it is laid with the reinforced layer down.

The steam barrier is installed on the logs using any available fasteners.

Features of floor insulation without logs

If there are no joists, an additional screed is poured onto the floor surface. It will level the surface and remove all possible unevenness.

  • We install waterproofing. We choose affordable and economical products. We focus on reliability and ease of operation. Traditional roofing felt and roofing felt, bitumen-containing roll materials are suitable.
  • We fill in a layer of expanded clay of the middle fraction. Thermal insulation can be carried out using expanded perlite or vermiculite. A thin layer of such materials will also create good sound insulation. Vermeculite can also be produced in leaf form. Agloporite is not a very economical option. An environmentally friendly material is sawdust. They are hygroscopic, superior to expanded clay in terms of thermal insulation quality, non-flammable and prevent rotting. Treated with a special composition containing an antiseptic, such filler will remain dry even at high humidity. Industrial slag is the most cheap material thermal insulation. There are certain requirements for the content of ash and coal in waste for its subsequent use as a heat insulator.
  • On top - an additional layer roll waterproofing. Using slats we set the height of the insulating layer.
    In a small room it will be enough to place the slats only around the perimeter of the room.

Ways to insulate the floor in a wooden house with a basement

Enough labor-intensive process, it is most convenient to disassemble it step by step.

  • Installation of sheathing
    Sheathing bars 5x5 mm, attached to the floor beam.
  • Laying the rough layer boards
    Small gaps are allowed. The rough-layer boards should not completely cover the ceiling joists.
  • Laying waterproofing
  • Insulation sheets
  • Vapor barrier
  • Final finishing layer

This installation is suitable for houses with a basement or subfloor, where there are no sub-zero temperatures.

The most popular is another scheme:

  • Rough layer
  • Bulk insulation or sand
  • Cardboard
  • Air gap (about 3 cm)
  • Finishing

Wooden logs can be secured to posts (brick, concrete), installed directly on the foundation of the house, or embedded in wooden plinth Houses. Also directly onto the supporting beams.

We insulate a wooden floor in a house without a basement

Here the features of the foundation will be important. The method of installing the joists and the subsequent installation of the floor will depend on it. You can insulate the soil itself, or you can put insulation in the space between the joists.

In houses with a small base, where the height above the ground surface is small, you can lay the logs directly on the reinforced soil. The advantage of such a floor is that it will not put additional load on the foundation of the house. Reinforcement is done using a concrete screed, onto which the joist structure is subsequently installed. It is best to pour the screed in several layers. Insulation and vapor barrier are laid on the waterproofing, in the space between the joists, and you can begin installing the plank floor. Rolled mineral wool or expanded clay can be used as a heat insulator.

In the version with a large base distance, the logs are laid in such a way that there is room for air circulation. This creates a ventilated space that prevents the appearance of dampness in the house.

Variety of modern insulation materials

Fiber insulation

Fiberglass and mineral wool are excellent heat insulators and good sound insulators. The fiber is laid very tightly between the slats. The space between the slats should be made smaller than the width of the roll of material. The disadvantages of the material include low vapor permeability and low mechanical strength. Also, glass wool fibers shrink, and it is unsafe to work with it. Mineral wool is safe, does not shrink, but is more expensive than fiberglass. Mineral wool is laid with the markings facing up, that is, the denser side. In this case, vapor barrier is not required.

Organic insulation

Flax or jute fiber, its properties are very similar to mineral wool. The fibers are easy to work with and safe. They are afraid of moisture getting on the surface, as the process of rotting may begin.

Polyurethane foam

Can be used as final finishing. Applied by spraying. Quite a high price, adequate to the quality indicators. Such a coating will have low thermal conductivity, low water absorption, and environmental friendliness. Stability in its structure and shape, durability. High-quality material must be dry and free of harmful volatile impurities.

Using foam plastic

Polystyrene foam is a dense material that reflects infrared rays well. Environmentally friendly and inexpensive. The only drawback is instability environment. IN indoors polystyrene foam does not wear out and does not lose its qualities.

Bulk insulation

Easy to install. Finishing flooring can be made on self-leveling insulation. Not very economical in cost.

Foam concrete and aerated concrete, granular concrete

Residues after construction can be used as insulation. These types have high resistance to heat retention. Granulobene is affordable and has high thermal insulation properties. Its composition is sand, cement and pieces of foam.

The latest insulation materials

The range of thermal insulator materials is expanding more and more.
Traditional materials are giving way to the latest advances. Physical and technical characteristics are becoming more and more advanced. The names of types, brands and types are huge.

Penofol

The foil reflective layer of foam material and its small thickness gives results that are many times superior to conventional materials. Laid in one layer, it does an excellent job not only of heat preservation, but also of waterproofing. Can serve as a vapor barrier. Long service life, ideal for use in a wooden house.
The new Penofol-2000 has protection on both sides in the form of aluminum foil. The efficiency of the material is much higher than that of its predecessors.

Izolon

The use of new generation materials with a uniform cellular structure will give the entire structure even greater strength and elasticity. Foam material with a cellular structure. A thin layer of such material is an unsurpassed heat insulator. Economical in price, elementary in its use and operation. Combines with any other materials, great for use in wooden houses. Eco-friendly.

For insulation with a thin layer, you can use extruded polystyrene foam, which also has a foamed cellular structure; it will good choice. Plates made of expanded polystyrene - penoplex, will also be a good heat insulator. The material is laid on a leveled floor base, attached to it using plastic anchors. After installing such insulation, you should immediately begin installing the main floor covering.

Materials and methods of floor finishing

For the final finishing of the floor there is a large selection of different floor coverings:

  • And massive wooden boards.

In cases where it is necessary to emphasize the beauty of a wooden floor, it is advisable to use varnish. Also pay attention to the oiling and waxing method. This treatment will protect the wood from the appearance of fungus, mold, insects and give it an excellent appearance. When choosing a finishing material, you should pay attention to such material characteristics as:

  • Wear resistance
  • Good acoustic properties
  • Easy and practical to clean
  • Matching the style and interior of the house