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» Is it possible to glue linoleum. How to glue linoleum joints at home. The structure of linoleum can be

Is it possible to glue linoleum. How to glue linoleum joints at home. The structure of linoleum can be

Linoleum is the most unpretentious, undemanding and cheap option flooring. Moreover, it can be laid in rooms with high humidity levels, for example, in the kitchen. This is very often decisive when choosing it. And after the purchase, very important questions arise: is it worth gluing linoleum to the base and how to glue the linoleum so that it forms a single sheet? In this article, we will find out in what cases it is necessary to glue linoleum to the floor and how to do it, and we will also figure out how to make the joints invisible.

“Cold welding” for gluing linoleum - and the joint is almost invisible

Why is it necessary to glue linoleum

When laying linoleum, you want it to look like a whole monolithic layer on the floor, and there are no visible joints. Today, it is not difficult to purchase foreign-made material, which is produced in rolls up to 4 m wide. This size will be quite enough so that in domestically built premises it will occupy the entire area. In this case, there is no need to glue the joints: you can choose linoleum exactly to the size of the room.

Domestic manufacturers produce linoleum 1.5 m wide. When purchasing it, you cannot do without carefully adjusting the canvases and gluing the joints.

Gluing linoleum to the base will create a more durable monolithic coating

Of course, you can lay linoleum without gluing it to the base. But the so-called loosely laid linoleum has a number of disadvantages.

Firstly, during use, potholes and swelling from the legs of the chairs will appear.

Secondly, when moving furniture, a wave will “go”, the linoleum will swell, and it will be difficult to straighten it without removing all the heavy furniture from the room.

Thirdly, the distance between the joints of the canvases may increase over time, they will “spread apart”.

Fourthly, un-glued linoleum is easier to damage with a sharp cutting object.

Gluing linoleum to the base will avoid these problems and create a monolithic coating. Even if you purchased a canvas that is wide enough to cover the entire room, you should still use glue. This will extend the life of the flooring by 40-50%.

There are several types of linoleum glue, different in composition and purpose. When choosing which glue to glue linoleum with, it is necessary to take into account the type and material of linoleum.

Dispersion adhesives

Dispersion adhesive is used for gluing linoleum to the base

Dispersion adhesives are aqueous suspensions and solutions of acrylic or carboxymethylcellulose with various additives. Such adhesives are non-toxic and practically odorless. Disadvantages include susceptibility to moisture and low temperatures. For example, dispersion adhesive that is frozen during transportation or storage loses its properties.

Acrylate glue used for laying heterogeneous and homogeneous linoleum in rooms with moderate and high traffic.

Bustilat used for gluing linoleums with a felt base. It contains carboxymethylcellulose, latex and chalk.

Gumilax Suitable for laying natural linoleum. It is based on latex and rubber.

Conductive glue used in rooms with big amount electronic technology. In this case, it is necessary to lay an antistatic coating.

Bitumen mastics fix linoleum on a fabric base.

Dispersion adhesives are used for gluing linoleum to the base. To do this, apply a layer of 0.5-0.6 mm thick to the floor using a notched trowel, after which the coating sheets are laid. Depending on the type, the consumption of linoleum glue ranges from 200 g/m2 to 500 g/m2. The exact quantity will be indicated on the package.

Adhesive for cold welding of linoleum

The second name of this type of adhesive is reactionary. It is dictated by the properties of the glue itself. It enters into a chemical reaction with the linoleum base, practically melting it, turning the joints into a durable, rigid intermediate strip. This effect is also called diffusion: the glue connects the linoleum sheets together, dissolving their edges into each other.

Reaction adhesive is ideal when used to install commercial linoleum.

This glue is a complex chemical compound based on polyurethane and epoxy resin. It has a very pungent odor and is also explosive and flammable.

Reaction adhesive is called "cold weld" because it is used as an adhesive for linoleum joints. Gluing two canvases together is very similar to “welding”.

There are several types of glue, each of which is used for laying linoleum of a certain type and age and on different stages works

Cold welding A-type adhesive is used for gluing joints of new linoleum

It has the most liquid consistency of all. Can only be used for gluing joints of new, just laid linoleum. To do this, the canvases are tightly glued to the base, the pattern is combined and the joint is coated with type-A cold welding. As a result, the seam will be transparent and durable; it can only be detected by touch. By the way, linoleum should be commercial or household, but hard.

“C-type Cold Welding” adhesive is used for gluing joints with large gaps

It has a thick consistency. Used for gluing “loose” joints of old linoleum. As a rule, the distance between the old linoleum sheets is quite large. This glue not only glues the joints together, but also creates, as it were, a strip of linoleum between them. C-type cold welding is used for gluing gaps 3-4 mm wide.

T-type cold welding

Used for gluing PVC linoleum to a polyester base.

First of all, it should be noted that when using joint adhesive, be sure to wear gloves on your hands. It’s better to also protect your respiratory tract, since the glue has a strong odor and is very toxic.

Important! It is undesirable to allow glue to get on the surface of the linoleum. It will not be possible to completely remove the blot. Even if you follow the advice of experts, wait until the glue dries and pick it off with a sharp knife, a noticeable mark will still remain on the surface. To prevent this from happening, it is convenient to use a rag or rags. When opening, carrying, using a tube of glue, always hold it over a rag, in which case drops of glue will fall on it. Then the rag must be immediately thrown away in a place where it cannot stick to the linoleum.

Cold welding technology is quite simple:

  • We clean the gap that we will glue from dust and moisture.
  • Place single-sided tape along the entire length of the joints.

Apply tape to the joints and cut along the gap

  • Before applying the glue, carefully cut the tape at the joint.
  • Squeeze glue from the tube into the gap.

We squeeze A-type cold welding into the gap between the linoleum sheets

  • After 10-20 minutes, the tape can be removed.
  • After an hour you can walk on the floor.

Important! The shorter the seam, the stronger and more invisible the connection. Taking into account the fact that it is practically impossible to make the floor perfectly flat, there is always the possibility of differences in heights and bulges on the floor. If you glue linoleum along its entire length at once, at the site of the defect it will begin to bristle and bulge. This can be prevented by gluing the joints in 50-70 cm sections, each time waiting for the glue to dry. In this case, the seam will be smooth and invisible.

Glued linoleum will last much longer than loosely laid linoleum and will not budge or bulge. And joints glued with cold welding will simply be invisible. Try to follow the technology and follow the instructions on the glue package.

Glue is rarely used in everyday life for laying linoleum. The need for it arises in the case of active movement of people or movement of large, heavy objects through the premises. You can easily handle the work of gluing the coating yourself if you know how and with what to glue linoleum to concrete floor, what should be done to securely fix the flexible coating.

Specifics of gluing linoleum to concrete

By concrete base we mean all types of base floors in the construction or production of which cement powder was used. Depending on the purpose of the premises, linoleum is laid on floor slabs with joints pre-filled with mortar and a leveling layer applied, and on numerous types of semi-dry and wet screeds.

The listed base options differ in the percentage of sand, gravel or crushed stone filler. Despite the difference in composition, they all belong to the category of absorbent subfloors - i.e. capable of absorbing, “pulling” and holding liquid, gaseous and even solid components of adjacent materials.

The adsorption characteristic of concrete floors is a remarkable quality if the coating is planned to be laid forever. However, it is rare that the owner of a house or apartment does not want to periodically change the interior, and besides, durable brands commercial linoleum tends to wear out. Therefore, gluing technology involves the use of compounds that make it possible to remove the material without problems.

At the same time, adhesives must hold the coating tightly during operation. Modifiers should not be “washed out” from linoleum if they were present during production. Therefore, when gluing, you should use only those adhesive options that are recommended by a specific manufacturer for fixing a specific brand of their product.

Suitable for gluing to a rough concrete floor:

  • Linoleums with an insulating base. The back side of them is equipped with a woven or non-woven backing that prevents the passage of heat and sound waves.
  • Alkyd linoleums. Otherwise, glyphthalic type of coating. It is made with a base of woven or non-woven fabric.

You can stick both household and commercial brands of linoleum. More often this is done with the latter, because the former need not be fixed with glue at all.

Baseless brands of linoleum cannot adhere directly to a concrete sub-base. To lay them on a concrete floor, a preliminary layer of dry leveling made of plywood, fiberboard, chipboard and similar materials is required. OSB boards are suitable for use as a dry screed under linoleum if the thickness of the laid coating is more than 4 mm.

When gluing linoleum, the following are used:

  • Dispersion compositions. These include the well-known Bustilat, ADM-K, AK, Gumilax and their foreign analogues. They are used for fixing linoleums on insulating substrates and fabric bases. Gluing is carried out immediately after applying the dispersion adhesive system with a layer of 6 - 7 mm on the concrete base.
  • Bitumen mastics and adhesives. These include “Biski”, domestic and foreign bitumen-polymer compositions. Used when gluing linoleums with a fabric base. Gluing is carried out 15 - 20 minutes after application with a layer of 4 - 5 mm.
  • Mastics based on synthetic rubbers and resins. These are various variations of oil-chalk, varnish-chalk, bitumen-chalk, casein-cement systems, such as KN-2, KN-3, “Perminid”. Used for gluing PVC and alkyd linoleums without substrates. Apply in a layer of 3 – 4 mm.

Mastics, created on the basis of artificial resins and rubbers, are applied to the base and to the back side of the floor covering with a spatula or even a brush. Linoleum is not glued to this glue immediately, but after waiting until it becomes “tack-free” - i.e. spontaneous weathering of excess solvent from the composition applied to the subfloor. Only then the back side of the material is covered with a 2-3 mm layer of mastic, and after 10 - 15 minutes it is glued on.

The first two of of the specified varieties adhesive systems are applied to the rough base using plastic, metal or notched spatulas. The size of the teeth is determined by the required thickness of the applied layer. When applying mastics with a synthetic base, you should not use a metal spatula due to the risk of fire and the likelihood of an explosion upon contact with metal.

Excess glue that appears in the seams after gluing must be immediately removed with a rag. Any mastic that gets on your hands is removed suitable solvent, dispersion adhesives are easily washed off with water.

Depending on the dimensions of the room, gluing is carried out over the entire area, along the perimeter, or only along the butt seams, if any. The joints are glued with Perminid or TGF-70M. In rooms up to 20 m², full gluing is not necessary. In residential areas, it is generally better to use double-sided tape, placing it exclusively around the perimeter.

Gluing technology step by step

If optimal coverage Having chosen and, in accordance with it, determined what needs to be used to glue the linoleum, you can begin to study the technology and subsequent production of work. Let's consider two main methods according to which household and commercial brands of linoleum are fixed to a concrete floor.

Conditions for performing work

Please note that the base must be carefully prepared before gluing and repaired if necessary. Under the two meter rule or building level, applied to the rough base in all directions, there should be no gaps larger than 2 mm. The baseboard should be removed. The floor needs to be swept thoroughly, vacuumed if necessary, and dried thoroughly.

If you plan to glue with compounds KN-2 or KN-3, the maximum moisture content of the leveling concrete screed must be no more than 4%. Its optimal value for the use of all other listed systems is 5%. However, when using bitumen mastics The humidity of the subfloor is allowed to be 10%, although it is recommended to dry it better.

The temperature in the room being finished should not be lower than 15ºС. In addition, the material needs to “get used” to environment. Adaptation will take at least a couple of days, during which the coating is simply left in the room. Rolls that adapt to upcoming operating conditions are not rolled out.

Mandatory preparatory stage

Before gluing, the concrete floor must be covered with primer, the composition of which is suitable for use in conjunction with the selected adhesive. Compatibility is usually specified by the manufacturer. If the coating will be glued to bitumen and bitumen-polymer mastics, then it can be primed with the same mastic diluted with gasoline in a ratio of 1:2 or 1:3. The first number indicates the proportion of mastic.

When using adhesives with a synthetic base, priming is carried out with drying oil.

In general, there is an opinion that the back side of the linoleum should also be covered with primer. To do this, it is first cut out and laid out in an inverted position in the adjacent room. However, it is not always possible to carry out such priming, therefore in most cases only the subfloor is primed.

Before the start of work, i.e. Even before preparing the concrete floor, you should drill holes in the walls for installing the plinth. The installation height of the plinth must be calculated in advance. It should not press the linoleum, but only touch its surface. We equip the holes with dowels or wooden plugs, depending on the fasteners used. The attachment points for the threshold strips in the floor are formed in the same way.

Instructions for gluing household linoleum

Household grade linoleum is usually laid as a single sheet. The width of the material is 4 - 5 m, which allows us in our apartment realities not to strain with cutting, fitting and making seams. Trimming of the whole canvas is carried out exclusively around the perimeter. Moreover, you don’t have to worry too much about the quality and evenness of the cut; all flaws will be covered up when the work is completed with a plinth.

Household linoleum is not as hard and fragile as its commercial counterpart, therefore it does not require close attention and accuracy when laying out and folding/unfolding. But it lasts less than commercial options, whose fragility is explained by their enhanced stability to abrasion.

Despite the flexibility and ability to quickly level, household linoleums still need to be given time to rest before applying the sticker. They say goodbye to waviness faster than their commercial counterparts.

However, until the material becomes perfectly smooth, you should not start fixing it with glue. If the panel significantly exceeds the size of the floor, it must be trimmed, leaving approximately 5 cm on each side.

Algorithm for cutting household linoleum:

  • We roll out and lay the linoleum panel so that its edges extend onto the walls of the room by about 5 cm.
  • We remove air accumulations under the coating - “drive them out” with a brush, working from the center to the periphery. You can do all this with your feet wearing felt boots. Then we forget about the coating until it goes wrong.
  • Having made sure that the waves have disappeared, we proceed to cutting the linoleum. We press down the covering with a metal ruler along the line where the wall meets the floor, and cut it off strictly along the ruler. Please note that there should be a gap of about 0.5 cm, maximum 1 cm, between the wall and the edge of the canvas.
  • Carrying out trimming external corners. To do this, bend the fabric with the inside facing up. We place a piece of board or fiberboard under the hem so as not to damage the part of the covering lying on the floor. 5 cm from the corner we make an incision on the bent part and finally cut it.
  • We cut internal corners. Here, first we fold the edge of the panel in the form of the letter V. We cut the fold into two parts in the center, then we put the cut edges on top of each other and cut along the corner line.

Material around pipe penetrations and in doorway First we cut it with some margin. They will need to be carefully cut after the final fixation of the linoleum.

After cutting, we again forget about the coating for a couple of days so that the waves formed by the roll delivery format straighten out. In addition, the material must be accepted stable shape: It will stretch or shrink slightly. At this time, we remember or find out what kind of glue we can use to glue linoleum to a concrete floor, and purchase it according to the consumption specified by the manufacturer.

After the required technological break, we will begin gluing:

  • Let's peel back half of the resting linoleum.
  • Apply to the concrete base using a notched trowel and distribute evenly. adhesive composition. In small rooms it can be applied in the form of a grid or only along the edge of the panel.
  • We return half of the coating back either immediately if we use dispersion adhesive, or wait the period required by technology if we used products with a bitumen or synthetic base.
  • Smooth the coating until the glue sets. For smoothing, it is advisable to stock up on a construction roller, a large-sized rolling pin or similar device. We carefully and methodically expel air accumulations from under the linoleum, moving from the middle of the room to the periphery.
  • We do the same with the second part of the cloth.

The edge of the covering must be placed under doorjamb. To do this, the platband will have to be slightly filed. In the area of ​​the doorway, it is desirable that the material runs through the center.

If you need to fix two panels on the floor in a large room, then both parts of the covering are glued according to the described scheme. The difference is that glue is not applied in strips under the edges of the sides to be joined. The width of the “dry” strips is approximately 10–15 cm. And the linoleum panels are laid with an overlap of 2–3 cm.

The joint line needs to be thought out during the cutting period. The fabrics must be laid out and cut so that the factory edges appear along the seam line. Those. First, one strip is actually cut, then the roll is turned over and directed in the opposite direction. It should be taken into account that when working according to this scheme, the coating with a pattern must be carefully combined so that there is no discrepancy in the ornament.

Two, or even better, three days after gluing the panels, the elastic coating assumed a relatively stable size. Relative, because during operation, linoleum will still stretch and shrink somewhat due to temperature changes. However, you can start cutting the seams without fear.

Taking into account the combination of the ornament, we apply a rule or a metal ruler to the line of the upcoming cut. You need to cut two layers at once. Afterwards, we will remove the trimmings and fold back the unglued edges of the panels. We apply the same glue again using the same method that was used to glue the main body of linoleum.

Glue the edges, press to expel the air and remove any excess glue that appears in the seam. Then we roll the joint with a roller, press it down with a board or similar weight and forget about it for another 2 days. Finally, we attach the baseboard. We install a threshold strip in the doorway. All.

A Guide to Commercial Linoleum

The standard width of commercial brands is 2 m plus/minus 10 - 20 cm. It can be laid without joints only on the floor of narrow covered terraces, corridors or small rooms. A big plus is that there is no need to combine the design when cutting, because The design of most options is simple and non-marking. The color is maintained in one tone or resembles a concrete floor with marble chips.

When working with commercial linoleum, you should handle it with extreme caution. It is brittle: it cannot be tightly rolled up or loaded when rolled up. Do not bend it too much to form an overlap on the wall. You can only roll it into a roll for applying floor glue. large diameter. The material should be unbent carefully so as not to damage it.

In general, gluing work is carried out in the same order as that used when fixing two sheets of household linoleum. However, there are specific rules for cutting and gluing commercial linoleum.

Commercial linoleum options:

  • They are considered non-shrinking, therefore there is no need to leave a technological gap between the walls and the coating.
  • They can be cut into walls in the form of original plinths or strictly along the line where the floor meets the wall.
  • When replacing the floor during repairs, cutting along the edge of the baseboard is allowed if it is not planned to replace it.
  • The air from under the newly glued covering is squeezed out with a piece of chipboard or similar material wrapped soft cloth in several layers. By analogy with the household option, bolsters and your own feet in felt boots can be used in this case.
  • The rolls, rolled up to half, are laid on the floor treated with glue, rolling out gradually while forcing out the air.

Cutting butt seams is also no different from the previous method. But it is not necessary to cut two layers at once. If they are too thick, it is permissible to cut through the top edge first, then the bottom. After cutting, the edges of the panels are also folded back, the base is glued and the material returned to its place is fixed. If the seam diverges in places, correct the position by welding.

The video will help you understand how to properly glue linoleum to a concrete floor: the video clearly presents the process:

The work of gluing linoleum cannot be called easy, but there are no particular difficulties in the technology. To perform it, you do not need the skills of a finisher. If you follow the rules, the floor will be perfect.

Repairs should be worth the effort, and the price should not be too high. This motto often encourages the owner of the room to choose economical and “hardy” materials for renovation, such as linoleum. Manufacturers of this flooring invest in it not only a number of service advantages, but also a generous range of colors and textures. Buyer who wants to save money on repair work, I often wonder: how to glue linoleum yourself and is it necessary to do it?

As a rule, any neat and practical owner will be able to apply linoleum stickers. Before we get to the tips experienced craftsmen, you need to figure out why gluing is needed for linoleum.

Why glue when you can just lay it down?

Long-term practice of laying linoleum reveals the following facts:

Important! Glued linoleum is extremely difficult to dismantle, so adhesive installation implies long service flooring material. The glue must be of high quality so as not to leak onto the surface of the panel. The covering cannot be laid on soft surfaces (carpet or laminate underlay). But it is allowed to stick linoleum on linoleum if the owner is sure that the old layer holds strong enough.

Required Tools

Whether it is necessary to glue linoleum - each owner decides based on personal considerations and technical characteristics premises. Based on this decision, the foundation will be prepared. To conveniently lay and properly glue linoleum, the master will need a number of the following tools:

  • roulette;
  • masking tape (and double-sided);

  • marker;
  • notched spatula;
  • long screws;
  • belt grinder;
  • dense rubber roller;
  • scissors large and small;
  • metal ruler;
  • glue and rubber gloves (respiratory mask).
  • Particular attention should be paid to the glue: the entire result of the repair will depend on it. To decide what is better for gluing linoleum, you need to pay attention to the type of material and type of floor.

    Watch the video to know about the tools:

    Which glue to choose?

    There are two main types of linoleum glue:

    • dispersive (for use in residential premises);
    • reactionary (for “cold welding” of sheets).

    Dispersion types of glue are designed for continuous gluing of a single piece of fabric. This glue is very elastic and environmentally friendly, but has its drawbacks. Low temperatures and excessive humidity are unacceptable during transportation and storage of glue: it will lose its binding properties.

    Types of dispersion glue:

    • acrylate (for rooms with high traffic);
    • bustilate (suitable for a dense type of coating on a warm felt base);
    • humilax (contains rubber/latex, which is suitable for natural types of materials);
    • bitumen mastic (for soft covering having a fabric base);
    • conductive (needed in rooms containing many electrical appliances).

    Using a notched trowel, apply any of these types of glue to the entire surface of the floor - a thin layer of approximately 0.5 mm in thickness. Then the linoleum panels are pressed firmly to the floor. Use a thick rubber roller to walk over the canvas, squeezing out excess air.

    The reaction type of glue involves a chemical reaction. It has a pronounced pungent odor and is quite dangerous for household use, so you need to carefully study the instructions on how to properly glue materials with it. A reaction type of glue is used to join the edges of canvases - this procedure is called “ cold welding" The reaction group adhesive itself is divided into types of density.

    Types of reaction glue:

    • A - liquid composition for joining new hard-type panels. After joining, a transparent, strong, invisible seam is obtained. To carry out such “welding”, you need to do a few simple manipulations. The gap between the sheets must be cleaned, dried and sealed with masking tape. Next, you need to carefully cut the tape where the panels join and squeeze the glue into the gap through the slot. It is recommended to keep the seams short - up to 60 cm. The adhesive tape can be removed after 20 minutes, but the glue will completely harden after an hour.
    • C is a semi-liquid composition for restoring the divergent seam between the sheets of the old floor covering. The glue forms a thick seam and is capable of restoring a gap up to 5 mm wide.
    • T – thick composition for joining PVC sheets to polyester. This subtype of reaction glue is approved for use only by professionals.

    Important! When carrying out procedures with reactive glue, it is dangerous to work without gloves and a respiratory mask. If the reaction glue gets on the linoleum, a mark cannot be avoided, so it is better to always keep the tube above a rag. If a drop of glue does get on the linoleum, you need to wait for it to harden and then carefully separate it with a knife.

    Laying linoleum on a wooden floor

    Linoleum is often used for economical repair“Khrushchev”, where the floor is lined with boards. Before you figure out how to glue linoleum, you need to take a closer look at wooden floor and assess its condition. In 90% of cases, unsightly wood requires pre-treatment.

    Linoleum can be glued to a wooden floor when:

    • the floor surface is perfectly flat (otherwise the linoleum will take on crooked shapes);
    • the boards are firmly fixed, do not creak or rattle (an unstable floor will sooner or later lead to a defect in the canvas);
    • the floor is free from mold and does not contain traces of paint (otherwise a reaction will occur with the glue, which will cause stains on the surface of the material).

    By laying linoleum on a wooden floor, the owner receives another economic advantage: the boards serve as a high-quality heat insulator, so there is no need for an insulating layer for the linoleum. But if at least one requirement for the condition of the boards is missing, then it will not be possible to properly glue linoleum to a wooden floor. Therefore, preparatory procedures will be needed.

    Removing paint marks

    Before gluing linoleum onto the boards, you need to clean them of paint:

    • with a belt grinder - you can also level the boards from unevenness;
    • a special penetrating agent - it softens the paint so that it can be easily removed with a spatula;
    • construction hairdryer ( blowtorch) is a quick, but not always easy way to remove paint, because... the room becomes very hot, and soot may remain on the walls and ceiling.

    Surface treatment and leveling

    Among all the materials used to level the floor, birch plywood is the most economical and safe. Under linoleum you will need sheets 6-12 mm thick. But, before gluing the linoleum to the plywood, you need to process individual fragments of the floor. After tearing off the baseboard (or one floor board), you need to find out where the joists are located. Each board will need to be additionally screwed to the joist using a long self-tapping screw. Place wooden wedges in the gaps between the boards to eliminate squeaks. Rotten areas will need to be replaced. Then you need to go over the floor with a belt sander and remove any unevenness, otherwise the flexible plywood will take them over. Vacuum the floor.

    Next, you should measure the sheets and place them on the floor in the optimal way. The plywood should rest for several days, after which the sheets can be fixed with small self-tapping screws. The step should be no more than 15 cm, otherwise the sheets will swell and creak when walking. There should be no gaps between the sheets, but a gap of 1 cm is needed near the wall (to prevent bubbles when the humidity in the room increases). If one layer of plywood does not eliminate all height differences from the floor, then you can lay a second layer on top.

    Watch the video to find out more:

    Preparation of linoleum

    Before gluing linoleum to plywood, it must be prepared. Usually the material is stored rolled up. If you fold linoleum in layers, it can be ruined. Linen heated to room temperature, it is necessary to lay it out on the floor, let the material rest and smooth out for up to 3 days. It is necessary to provide a supply of material on each side (the excess can then be easily cut off). Cut the corners to fit the size of the room - the canvas needs to be bent and reverse side make marks with a marker. You always need to cut the fabric with a margin, since there can be no corrections.

    If the owner still doubts whether it is necessary to glue linoleum in small room, you can try using double-sided tape. Such fixation can easily be replaced with adhesive in the near future. In this case, the linoleum will not be damaged. The method of attaching with tape is very simple. The resting material must be rolled up halfway across the room and glued to the floor with strips of tape (along the room at intervals of 40 cm from the wall). Then you need to remove protective film from the strips and carefully return the canvas to its place, avoiding its displacement. Smooth with a roller. Repeat the same procedure with the second half.

    Before gluing linoleum to a complex-shaped floor with different niches, radiators, etc., you will need to make special patterns from thick paper sheets, which are then transferred to the canvas on the reverse side. For ease of cutting, you need scissors of different sizes.

    Gluing

    In the video you will learn more:

    Before gluing linoleum, dispersion glue is placed on the plywood over the entire surface. If the room is large and you need to join the pattern on two canvases, you will have to use the “cold welding” method. First, one half of the room is treated with glue, the one further from the door. Then the adhesive is applied to the canvas. The linoleum is laid on the floor and carefully rolled with a roller to remove excess air from under the canvas. The second sheet is glued in the same way, but it should overlap the bottom layer. Thus, by cutting 2 sheets at once with a knife along a ruler, you can achieve a perfectly even seam. The joint will need to be coated with fresh glue. Then, according to the instructions, use reaction glue to “weld” the canvases.

    It is necessary to take into account many nuances, since gluing linoleum to the floor yourself is both a simple and complex task. The quality of the interior and the service life of the linoleum will depend on how seriously the owner takes the procedure.

If the old linoleum looks unpresentable, but major renovation there are no plans in the apartment in the near future, you can get out of this situation by laying a new roll material to the old one.

This action is justified both in terms of solving the problem, both in monetary costs and in time. After all, installation can be done on our own, if you follow the recommendations and advice given in this material. This will allow you to do the job correctly and quickly, without the involvement of professionals.

Provided that the old floor covering allows laying a new one on it, the use of this technique is justified not only for reasons of economy. You can also consider the following advantages:

  • There is no need to dismantle the old covering or perform wet and labor-intensive work on screeding the floor.
  • The surface receives not only additional sound insulation, but also an additional thermal insulation layer.
  • The double linoleum coating completely prevents condensation vapors and dust from entering the room.
  • Convenience and comfort – the floor will become softer and more pleasant.

To see whether linoleum with a felt base can be laid on top of the old one, see the following video:

Which method of fastening layers of linoleum is better to choose?

Regardless of the size of the room where a new coating is being laid on an existing one, proper attention should be paid to bonding the layers and joints. Otherwise, a poorly attached coating will certainly peel up during operation and lead to peeling of the entire canvas. Such troubles, in addition to poor aesthetics, will create dangerous areas for the movement of guests.

There are two main methods for connecting layers:

  1. Hot welding. Commercial types of coatings are joined by hot welding; there is special equipment for this purpose.
  2. Cold welding. In domestic conditions, when using soft, but no less high-quality coatings, the surfaces are joined by cold welding. The product is sold in tubes, resembles regular glue, and is available in two varieties. For just laid canvases, class A glue is used, for gluing joints on the old coating - C. The first, with a more liquid consistency, is applied after the new linoleum sheets (namely the edges) are pre-attached to each other with tape, this will prevent the new coating from slipping on the old one basis. Then a small cut is made in it and glue is poured inside. After 5 minutes, the tape is removed along with any remaining glue that has fallen on it. The result is a thin, neat seam.

New material for laying over the old one should be selected with a backing or purchased separately - this will extend its service life.

Glue options

The adhesive composition creates a strong monolithic base at each application point, which allows you to maintain the width of the joints between adjacent sheets.

Another important advantage of using an adhesive is its strength and resistance to increased loads: the coating will not be able to swell, for example, from the legs of a chair, and if it is necessary to move the furniture to another place, a wave-like defect will not arise, as is the case with loose laying of roll coverings.

And the last argument in favor of using glue is durability. The glued base will last much longer, maintaining its original aesthetic appearance. Adhesive compositions for the material in question are produced in three varieties:

  • dispersive;
  • universal;
  • reactionary.

Dispersive

The composition consists of acrylic or carboxymethylcellulose with the addition of latex, chalk and other additives. This type is non-toxic, practically odorless, has excellent waterproof properties, and does not lose its qualities after freezing (for example, during transportation). Used for gluing linoleum based on: felt, fabric, polyurethane foam.

It is further divided into:

  • acrylate– for gluing homogeneous species linoleum or heterogeneous in places where the traffic of people is high or moderate;
  • boostilate– carboxymethylcellulose base with latex and chalk – an ideal composition for insulated types of felt-based coverings;
  • gumilax– based on latex with rubber, intended for natural linoleum;
  • conductive– used in combination (simultaneously) with antistatic flooring in rooms with a large number of electronic devices or equipment;
  • bitumen and dispersion mastics– ideal composition for fabric bases.

All dispersion adhesive compositions are applied with a notched trowel to the old base and the new one is immediately laid on it.

Reactionary

In composition, it is a complex chemical compound. The base consists of epoxy resins and polyurethane. This glue has the property of combining (reacting) with the base of the coating, firmly attaching it to the old surface. The resulting connecting layer is characterized by a high level of water resistance, durability, strength and resistance to high loads.

This adhesive composition is indispensable when laying coatings in commercial and production premises. It is characterized as the best in terms of adhesion of layers, but has a number of disadvantages:

  • high price of the product;
  • acrid pungent odor;
  • fire hazard;
  • explosion hazard.

Laying linoleum using this adhesive composition is often called cold welding, precisely because of the reaction that occurs between the surfaces. There are three types: A, S, T, each has its own level of concentration of adhesive components.

Work order

In the case when a decision is made to lay a new layer of linoleum on the old one, the choice of the first should be based primarily on the thickness of the substrate, but not the working surface (top layer). This is a guarantee that the material will remain intact for a long time and will not tear immediately.

An important requirement is the evenness of the old coating. All changes and irregularities will immediately appear on the new layer, and this can lead to damage. That is why a special role is given to the substrate (its thickness).

Preparatory stage

If the old base meets all the requirements, then the following preparatory work must be carried out:

  1. Remove skirting boards, thresholds, connecting strips. Putting them back later or replacing them, specially choosing the type and color to match the new ones is everyone’s business.
  2. The presence of air bubbles should be eliminated; un-glued areas should be fixed with glue.
  3. If there are wide seams or cracks, they can be repaired using sealant.
  4. If areas are too damaged, it is advisable to remove them and replace them with new patches (of the same type and thickness, in order to avoid sudden changes).
  5. Clean and dry old dirt.
  6. It is advisable to sand the surface of the old coating and prime it with a deep impregnation agent to increase adhesion (adhesion) between the layers.

If old roll covering has generally lost its elasticity, the surface is too damaged, warped and there are areas where delamination of the material is visible, then You cannot lay new linoleum on this type of linoleum.

Laying technology

After the preparatory work you can begin laying new roll material; this process is also carried out according to a certain method:

  1. The canvas is spread on the floor so that one of the cuts is slightly adjacent to the surface of the wall, the excess is cut off (along the contour of the wall) with a special knife. If the covering does not consist of a continuous sheet, but several, they should be laid out in the proper order and only then should you begin to trim off the excess.
  2. The new coating is left to rest for several days so that it takes on the desired shape. If necessary, cut off the excess again before fastening.
  3. The canvases are glued using the following technology: first, one edge is folded back, an adhesive composition is applied to the old base, upper layer is laid back, simultaneously displacing the air. Then they move, smoothing the canvas, to the second part. They do the same procedure there.
  4. If the installation consists of several canvases, then the edge seams between them are cold welded. It is very important that the seams of the new coating do not overlap with the old ones, and that all pieces are glued securely, without layers of air.
  5. Installation of baseboards and thresholds is carried out when the glue is completely dry.

In contact with

When the old floor covering wears out, replacing it is necessary to give the room an attractive appearance. Linoleum is often used as a floor covering, as the most practical, beautiful and abrasion-resistant material. During the installation process, the problem arises of how to glue the linoleum so that the joints are completely sealed and invisible. Regular glue will not work for these purposes.

How and with what to glue linoleum joints

There are several ways to glue linoleum end-to-end at home. Each of them has its own disadvantages and advantages; which one to choose depends on your financial capabilities and the type of linoleum.

Ways to seal joints:

  • masking tape (adhesive tape);
  • welding (cold or hot);
  • thresholds;
  • soldering iron

To glue with tape or masking tape, align the joints, apply double-sided tape to the floor underneath and peel off the protective layer. Connect the edges of the linoleum and glue.


Advice! The connection of the joints must be very precise.

The disadvantage of this method is that when water gets between the joints, they separate, so such gluing is unreliable.

Advantages:

  • cheap;
  • easily.

Cold welding

The use of cold welding is one of the simplest and most reliable ways to join the edges of linoleum.

You will need:

  • colorless glue for welding (can be bought in tubes, inexpensive);
  • stationery knife;
  • masking tape.


When gluing, the type of linoleum is decisive. Based on this, glue is selected:

  1. “A” is liquid and represents perfect option for connecting joints of hard linoleum, fresh polyvinyl chloride flooring, the consistency allows you to remove the smallest cracks.
  2. “C” - glues joints with a maximum thickness of 5 mm, forms a special layer on the surface of the seam, securely fastens the canvases and fills even wide cracks.
  3. “T” - used for gluing linoleum on a thick felt base, forms an elastic transparent seam, and is used more often by professionals.

Adjust the covering sheets as accurately as possible, the seam should be perfectly even. If necessary, trim and straighten the edges.

Advice! Bonding will be better if before the procedure the linoleum lies on the floor for a while and straightens out well.


Apply masking tape to the front and back surfaces of the linoleum. This allows you to protect the coating from contamination by the adhesive composition and marks the place of gluing. Connect the joints and fill the seam with glue along the entire length - after spreading, a thin strip should remain.

Important! Avoid getting adhesive on front surface floor covering, since it is impossible to remove stains that have appeared.

Leave the glue to dry for 10 minutes, then remove the masking tape. The adhesive composition will dry completely after 2 hours.

Disadvantages: not suitable for linoleum with insulation or a soft base, since precise joining of such material cannot be achieved, the seams are noticeable and look ugly.

Advantages:

  • you get invisible seams that can even be made curly;
  • anyone can master the cold welding method; it’s not difficult at all;
  • relatively inexpensive method.

If the procedure is carried out correctly, the seam will not be noticeable.

Another way to glue linoleum together is hot welding. The method is used in most cases for bonding joints of commercial flooring. This is explained by the fact that it is problematic to reliably connect the edges of such thick multi-component linoleum.


You will need:

  • a construction hair dryer with a special nozzle that allows you to heat the desired areas;
  • hand cutters or a special milling machine (for cutting grooves);
  • cords that are the same color as the floor covering;
  • a special knife for removing excess protruding cord material.

Advice! The hair dryer must be quite powerful, since the sheets must be heated to 500-600 ° C. Good equipment is equipped with a special sensor, and the heating temperature can be adjusted based on what material is being bonded.

Before you start welding the joints, you need to glue the linoleum itself to the base with PVA glue, which will ensure the immobility of the canvases. Heat the coating sheets with a hairdryer - the joints become airtight when the polymer compounds harden.


Advantages:

  • the result is seams with ideal density that are difficult to damage mechanically or chemically, using detergents;
  • Such joints look very aesthetically pleasing.

Flaws:

  • very rarely used at home, as they are necessary special tools and materials;
  • ordinary household linoleum can be damaged by exposure high temperature construction hair dryer;
  • Experience with tools and materials is required.

Advice! It is better to entrust hot welding to professionals.

Glue gun

A similar tool can be bought in a store. The glue gun is connected to the electrical network, which ensures heating of the adhesive composition.

Cut the edges of the linoleum to the base, clean from dust, dirt and material residues. Then fill the gun with adhesive. Plug the tool into a power outlet and fill the joints with heated glue. While the glue has not cooled down, its excess can be removed; after it has completely hardened, this will be very difficult to do.

Types of glue:

  • “A” - suitable for sealing seams on all types of coatings;
  • “B” - used to restore old linoleum, as it perfectly joins the recesses and levels the surface;
  • “C” - connects polyester materials, used, in most cases, by professionals.


Thresholds

Metal thresholds are usually used to make the joint between two materials of different structure more aesthetically pleasing. For example, laminate and linoleum.

Advice! In order to qualitatively join two floor coverings of different thicknesses using a threshold, it is necessary to install them at the same level. To do this, place a backing or ordinary plywood under the one below, then attach the threshold.


If set to one level two various coatings fails, then you can use special thresholds designed for such cases. They can be plastic, metal or wood.

Advantages:

  • inexpensive;
  • Easy to install, no professional knowledge required.

Flaws:

  • the threshold will protrude;
  • It is impossible to connect two canvases several meters long.

Most often, the method is used to connect linoleum sheets in a doorway.


This method of gluing joints is considered outdated, but some still use it to connect small pieces of linoleum. It is advisable to use a soldering iron if the room area is small and there are few joints on the floor covering and they are almost invisible.

The essence of using a soldering iron is that it heats the edges of the linoleum, as a result of which they melt and join together. After hardening, the resulting seam is trimmed, if necessary. The joint location may differ from the rest of the coating texture. To smooth the surface, run a rubber roller along the still soft seam. Press down on the joint.


Advantages:

  • simplicity of the method;
  • availability.

Flaws:

  • the joints are not very beautiful;
  • the seams are fragile, so in places where people often walk, it is not recommended to connect the joints in this way;
  • Not all modern varieties linoleum can melt under the action of a soldering iron.

A soldering iron designed specifically for linoleum may differ in size and design.


How to glue linoleum end-to-end at home and make the seams flawless? The following recommendations will help:

  1. When cold welding, the needle should deliver the compound as deep as possible into the seam.
  2. The adhesive composition used for cold welding is very aggressive, for this reason you should work with it extremely carefully.
  3. The adhesive layer should be applied evenly along the entire length of the seam. It should be no higher than 4 mm.
  4. It is not recommended to rush to remove excess adhesive. Wait until it is completely dry to avoid the adhesive peeling off from the edges of the linoleum.
  5. Fresh cold welding is elastic and can spring back; if it is stretched and the excess is removed, a depression will remain.
  6. Carry out work wearing rubber gloves.
  7. Be sure to secure the linoleum by gluing it to the base before connecting the joints if the room area is more than 20 square meters. m.
  8. Before and after gluing, clean the surfaces from dirt and dust, since only clean and dry joints can be properly joined.
  9. Protect the surface of the linoleum by sticking masking tape (scotch tape) on it, as adhesives act as solvents and can ruin the floor covering.


The edges of linoleum, connected by welding, look much better than joints glued together with ordinary double-sided tape.

The best option for combining two flooring sheets at home would be, since it does not require special skills, and also professional equipment, tools and materials. It is important to choose the most suitable adhesive composition based on the surface material.

Hot welding should not be used at home. For high-quality connection of joints, professional knowledge and experience in working with equipment and materials will be required.

Cold and hot welding will perfectly connect the two canvases. An almost invisible seam is formed that is resistant to mechanical damage, moisture and household chemicals which is used for cleaning the floor.