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» Window profile GOST 30674 99. Basic standards in the field of production and installation of windows. Requirements for PVC profiles

Window profile GOST 30674 99. Basic standards in the field of production and installation of windows. Requirements for PVC profiles

When finishing walls, a lot of time is spent leveling the surface. Therefore, for those who wish to carry out major renovations or make a new department after the construction of the facility, it is very important to simplify this task. One of the most common materials for leveling is plasterboard. However, it cannot provide high structural strength, and must also be replaced after removing the adhesive-based decorative trim. More advantageous material in this situation it is MDF. It is made with or without a decorative layer applied, allowing you to create your own colors. Decorating walls with MDF panels with your own hands is quite simple and does not require special skills or abilities in carrying out facing work.

Installation technology

MDF panels have various shapes in the form of square, rectangular or stacked slatted slabs. Therefore, at the first stage it is necessary to decide on the most suitable sizes, as well as the type of decorative finishing. If you plan to do the work yourself without outside help, then it is better to choose those that are smaller in size. If it is necessary to reduce the time required for work, large panels are used.

Before installation work It is necessary to lay the panels in the room so that they can acquire normal humidity. This will prevent the formation of cracks at the joints or the appearance of mechanical stress. When the temperature changes by 300C, the elongation can be up to 10 mm. The walls must be treated with special impregnations. They destroy harmful microorganisms and do not allow them to develop further.

MDF is mounted on a wooden or metal profile sheathing. This allows not only to create a strong and reliable design, and also ensure ventilation of the main wall material. Wooden lathing is more common, since its properties are close to MDF, and it is also relatively cheap. However, if the bars have not been dried naturally, then during use they may bend, and the MDF sheet may, at best, come off, and at worst, become damaged. Due to the fact that the wall may become damp, it is necessary to pave waterproofing layer. As a result, mold and mildew will not form in the niche. Additionally, you can put thermal insulation layer to improve the energy efficiency of the room. Usually mineral wool mats or polystyrene foam are laid.

If the main walls are initially flat, then you can refuse to install the sheathing, choosing to mount it on an adhesive base. The amount of deviation from evenness should be no more than 3 mm/m2. In addition, with this installation method it will not be possible to install a thermal insulation layer.

If you attach MDF to a metal profile with your own hands, you will need to purchase additional special fasteners. They are end switches and connectors special form, which quickly and reliably snap into place, resulting in the panels being securely fastened.

We calculate the quantity of materials

The first step is to measure the length and width of the walls using a tape measure. It is worth doing this for each of them, since they may differ slightly in size. After this, you need to calculate the number of slats for the sheathing. Draw a sketch on paper in accordance with the scale, and then evenly place the slats in a horizontal or vertical position. At the same time, the distance between them is kept the same within 40-50 cm, taking into account the tight fit of the upper and lower planks to the floor and ceiling. The panels are installed perpendicular to the guides.

The cross-section of the wooden beams of the sheathing is selected taking into account the magnitude of the maximum unevenness of the wall, as well as the need to ensure sufficient structural strength. Therefore, in the case of wooden bars, the cross-section must be at least 25x40 mm, and for a metal profile with a shelf width of 20 mm and a steel thickness of 2 mm.

The number of MDF panels is determined taking into account their size and the best location along the walls in order to reduce the amount of excess. However, do not forget about observing the pattern when choosing panels with decorative finishes. The stock quantity of material must be at least 20% of the total quantity.


We carry out preparatory work

If construction or dismantling work was carried out before installation of MDF panels, then it is necessary to remove dirt and also wipe dust from the walls. If there are problem areas on the wall that are peeling or cracking, you need to determine how reliable they are and whether the sheathing will fall off during installation. To do this, just tap them with a hammer.

Before attaching MDF wall panels to an adhesive base, it is necessary to determine the degree of deviation of the surface from a perfectly smooth surface. The simplest, but inaccurate method is to shine a flashlight from the corners of the wall and determine where shadows are created. Then, using a tape measure, you need to roughly measure their size. If deviations are more than 4 mm, you will have to perform partial leveling or install sheathing. You will also need to sand off the old finish with an abrasive material.

After this, the surface of the walls is treated with antiseptic impregnations. While they are drying, it is necessary to use laser level determine the places for attaching the sheathing, and apply the corresponding marks with a marker. If there is no laser level, use a tape measure to measure distances, and use a level to align them relative to the horizontal or vertical.

The wooden sheathing must be treated with impregnations against pests and fungi, and then painted. This will significantly extend its service life. It is not worth cutting them in advance, just like MDF panels, since it is quite difficult to determine their exact dimensions. The material should be prepared as the installation work progresses in order to minimize the amount of waste, and the connecting seams are obtained without visible gaps.


Installation of sheathing

Installation begins from the floor if the sheathing is horizontal, or from the wall in the case vertical arrangement. Take a guide, apply it to the surface of the wall, and then mark the most convex places (one on each side is enough). These will be the dots zero level. Then equidistant points with a selected value from the interval 40-50 cm are laid off from them. These will be places for additional fastenings, in which you will have to drill holes for plugs or dowels using a hammer drill. For these purposes, a fastener diameter of more than 4 mm and a length of 5 cm is sufficient. The dimensions of the holes must correspond to them.

Then a strip is applied and tight fixation is performed at two selected points. At the same time, make sure that it is parallel to the wall, otherwise the panels will become skewed. Deviation is permissible only if the walls in the room are not parallel and it is necessary to align them or there was a design idea to do them that way. Since the first guide sets the initial level, it must be installed slowly, clearly measuring distances and establishing the correct position.

The fastening of the bar at other points is carried out so that it maintains its position, but at the same time is firmly fixed. That is, in places where the guide does not fit tightly to the wall, it is necessary to install wooden wedges or rigid steel beacons with the required dimensions. You can make them yourself or purchase ready-made ones, and adjust the dimensions during installation to the level of the gap from the walls.

The second one secures the upper guide. For it, two conditions must be met: it must be parallel to the wall and the bottom bar, and also be located in the same plane as the first guide. Therefore, they take the rail and fix it at a point on one side of the wall, but not tightly, but so that it is movable. Then a similar procedure is performed on the opposite side. Using a plumb line, check the location of the guide in the same plane as the already installed one, and adjust their parallelism with a level. After alignment is completed, final fastening is carried out.

All remaining slats are attached in the same way according to the markings applied. There is no need to use careful level checks, since it is enough to apply a level bar and check that the guide is in the same plane as the others. After completing work on one wall, they begin to work on the rest. In places where the sheathing adjoins the window and doorways it is necessary to install guides along their perimeter.

Cladding with MDF panels

First, the panel is cut to the height of the room. If you plan to install suspended ceilings, then the height should be 2-3 cm lower than the ceilings. If the wall dimensions are exceeded, a 3 mm indentation is made from the corners on both sides. This is due to the fact that the panels must be fastened together according to the principle of a tenon fitting into a groove.

The cladding process consists of the following stages:

  1. A J-element is installed in the corner of the room, if provided by the MDF manufacturer.
  2. They take the panel, place it flush against the wall and snap it into the lock, and then screw it onto self-tapping screws in several places along the tenon. If there is no connecting element, then a tenon is cut off from the end of the panel so that it can be pressed tightly against the corner. Using self-tapping screws or special fasteners, fixation is carried out on self-tapping screws with a distance from the corner of 5-10 mm.
  3. Finally secure the panel, making sure it is in the correct position.
  4. They take the second panel, coat the groove with glue and put it on the tenon of the already installed one. The tenon is screwed onto the self-tapping screws. In the grooves, you can make connections using clamps, which are a steel bracket that allows you to securely fix one panel to another. In this case, there is no need to additionally screw, glue or nail the panels. Decorative finishing on adjacent panels should fit together naturally.
  5. Cover the surface with panels up to the next corner of the wall. The panel that borders the wall must be cut at an angle of 450 at the end part on the side of the groove.
  6. They begin to lay out the next wall with a panel with a cut of 450, but from the tenon side.
  7. The last panel needs to be rounded at the end so that it can be inserted into the groove that was installed in the first stage. Additionally, the panel can be fixed with self-tapping screws along the connecting seam.

Alternative methods of fastening panels

  1. Apply glue to the wall surface. The glue is applied to the entire surface of the wall in a wave-like manner so that excess glue does not come out of the panel, but forms a uniform layer. Due to the elasticity of the adhesive connection, the panel does not detach from the wall during temperature changes.
  2. For glue to the sheathing. Used in cases where panels have decorative coating. The glue is applied to the sheathing in an even layer. Because of small area The panel contacts must be screwed onto self-tapping screws at the top and bottom.
  3. Fastening with staples or nails to the sheathing. Quite simple and reliable way, but has a significant drawback - the decorative coating is damaged. Due to the rigidity of the fastenings, there is resistance to thermal expansion of the panels. Therefore, it can only be implemented in cases where the same indoor microclimate is maintained throughout the year.

Conclusion

Installing an MDF panel yourself is quite simple. To do this, it is enough to take correct measurements, cut them to size and choose the appropriate mounting method. In this case, there is no need to prepare the wall surface, except for cases where it is planned to install the panels on an adhesive base without lathing. The most important thing is not to rush when setting the position of the guides and the first panel. The result will be a perfectly flat and smooth wall surface without significant financial costs.

Choice facing materials for walls may cause headache due to the huge range that it offers modern market. Now consumers prefer safe materials, but not everyone can afford them. MDF panels are an environmentally friendly material and at the same time relatively inexpensive, so they are chosen quite often. How walls are decorated with MDF panels and what the features of the material are, we will look at in the article.

The planks are suitable for cladding any room: kitchen, bedroom, corridor, living room. The panels are used for cladding in the presence of curved walls, since the design hides imperfections and does not require careful preparation, which allows you to save on the purchase of additional materials.
Planks are made by pressing under the influence of high temperature. This is how small particles stick to each other. If you install the planks on the frame, you can lay an additional layer of thermal insulation for the room. This is especially true for apartments with poor heating and private houses.

Another saving point is ease of installation. For installation it is not necessary to call specialists; the work can be done on your own. After installation, the panels do not need to be processed additionally - they are completely ready. Where there are advantages, there are also disadvantages. MDF panels are no exception. Their surface can be scratched if handled carelessly. They also cannot withstand strong blows.
In the event of a fire, the slats will support the combustion. Therefore, the wiring must be insulated very well. To prevent them from burning, they are treated with special compounds, but these are additional costs and work.
But despite this, the panels will last for many years.

The main thing is not to use brushes or detergents with abrasive components. Finishing the cooking area with slats in the kitchen is also not permissible.

Types of panels

Like any material, MDF panels are classified into groups according to certain criteria: texture, size, shape, manufacturing technology.

There are several ways to make planks:

  • Whole-pack;
  • Laminated;
  • Moisture resistant.

Whole-pressed, as the name implies, is made by pressing fine particles tree. These planks will last a long time, they are durable and smooth. Decorative properties Such panels immediately catch the eye.
Laminated panels are also made by pressing, but after production the plank is covered with a special film. That is why this type has a wide selection of colors. Only the best wood fibers are used to make waterproof planks. They can be installed in rooms with high humidity: kitchen or bathroom.

According to their form they are distinguished into:

  • Rack and pinion;
  • Tiled;
  • Leafy.

Slat strips are very easy to install, which is why they are most often purchased. For installation, a frame is required, which is simply filled with panels. The length and width of the planks can be different, you can choose required size for a room of any size.
Tile planks are similar to regular tiles, only more larger area. The tiles are installed in the same way as the slats - on the frame. This is a kind of cassette ceiling. Leafy can reach large sizes. More often they are decorated with drawings.

According to their texture, the planks are divided into:

  • Veneered;
  • Glossy;
  • Painted;
  • 3D panels.

Veneered planks imitate a natural wooden surface. The MDF sheet is covered with veneer, which is made from different varieties tree. This type is highly expensive.

Glossy panels are covered with film to achieve the desired effect. As you know, glossy smooth surfaces are much easier to clean. However, any damage on such a surface will be visible to the naked eye.

Painted planks are not used so often for cladding, although paint adds variety; more often, furniture is made from painted planks.

The surface of the planks can be glossy or matte. Drawings are applied to 3D panels that imitate various materials. Three-dimensional drawings or photographs are also applied. Such panels can be made to order, it all depends on your imagination.

How to choose panels

Before work, you need to calculate the amount of material. However, you should not buy the material end-to-end; buy several panels in reserve in case they are damaged during work or during transportation.

Calculating the amount of material is simple. Measure total area walls and divide by the size of the panels. This is how you get the right number. The cost of the planks depends on the design and characteristics. Waterproof glossy panels with a 3D pattern will cost the most. Do not buy thin panels; their thickness should be at least 1 cm.

Preparing walls for paneling

Careful preparation for frame structure not required. The main thing is to treat the wall with an antifungal compound. Everything else depends on your personal desire. But still, if you still spend renovation work, then it’s better to put the wall in order. Moreover, over time it will be much more difficult to do this. This is especially true for stains; the longer they remain on the surface, the more difficult it is to remove them.

The preparation process consists of several stages:


Necessary tool for the job

During the installation process, you will need plumb lines, which can be made from rope and weights. For marking you need a level and a tape measure. For installation, a screwdriver and an electric drill. If you need to cut panels, use a jigsaw. It is also suitable for cutting metal parts.

Installation methods

You can install the strips on metal or wooden frame, as well as using glue. The choice of frame material depends on the room. So in a room with high humidity it is better to use metal, and in a private house wooden.

Glue installation involves flat surface, therefore, preliminary work on preparing the wall must be completed completely and with care.

Glue

Installation with glue does not take much time. But later, if an individual strip is damaged, you will not be able to remove one panel without damaging the others.
The glue is applied to the panel in thin lines in three or four rows and glued to the wall. There is no need to press with force, a little pressure is enough. This fills the entire wall. Excess glue must be removed immediately before it dries.

Frame

First decide on the installation method of the panels: horizontal or vertical installation. The frame profile is installed perpendicular to the direction of the panels.

For horizontal positioning of the frame, marking lines are drawn using a level, and for vertical positioning using plumb lines. The frame guide strips are installed at a distance of 50 cm.

Wooden frame

The bars are installed on the wall using dowels. A hole is drilled in the plank, a dowel is inserted into it and a self-tapping screw is screwed in. The fasteners are placed in increments of 40 cm.

Metal carcass

The metal profile is also attached with self-tapping screws. First, it is pressed against the wall and the location of the screws is marked, then holes are punched and then the profile is screwed on. After its installation, hangers are attached to it.

Fastening MDF panels to the wall. From location starting bar The evenness of installation of subsequent ones also depends, so check it with a level. Using a tenon, secure the panel in the corner to the guide profile. Additionally, secure it with self-tapping screws. Next, the tenon is installed in the groove of the previous panel. Thus, the wall is completely filled. The last strip usually has to be cut off. It is secured with self-tapping screws and subsequently closed decorative corners.

When renovating a house, you always want to kill two birds with one stone and combine high quality low cost materials. At first glance, such an idea seems utopian, but what if we told you that it is quite real?

In this article we will not only talk about how to cover walls with MDF panels, but also show a short video on how to cover walls with MDF.

Something that must not be forgotten

Before moving on to a detailed answer to the question of how to cover walls with MDF panels, let's take a little time useful tips. In order for the repair to be of high quality and last for many years, it must be done in compliance with all rules and regulations.

Often, such rules are neglected, and then, when the finishing begins to deteriorate, they complain about low quality materials And all the rest.

Most often in such situations, the problem lies with the person who did the repairs, so here are some practical tips:

  • Before covering the walls with MDF panels, be sure to prepare the base. The walls need additional protection to prevent fungus from forming on their surface. This can be done using special soil. deep penetration or impregnation for concrete or stone surfaces.
  • If the sheathing for the panels is made of wooden blocks, treat them all with wood impregnations, which protect the bars from moisture absorption and from bark beetles. There is no need to skimp on impregnation; the better the wooden guides are protected, the longer the finish will last, and it will not have to be edited.

  • In fact, walls covered with MDF do not need additional protection, but if you install them, for example, in the kitchen (see Wall decoration in the kitchen: choosing a material), where it is traditionally difficult environment, you might consider varnishing the panels. This will not affect the appearance in any way, but it will give additional protection from moisture and mechanical influences.
  • Wall covering with MDF panels can be done in several ways. We’ll talk about this in more detail below, but for now we’ll just say that you need to decide on the method even before purchasing the material. The fact is that the panels may differ in the groove configuration, and for example, MDF for fastening with a stapler is not suitable for fixing with clamps.
  • Modern manufacturers produce a wide variety of panels that differ in quality characteristics. There are laminated and moisture resistant. Of course, the price for them is also different, but in some cases there is no point in overpaying, for example, if you are covering the walls of a bedroom (see Decorating the bedroom: looking for options), then spending on laminated MDF will be simply pointless.

Advice! If you decide to do the repairs yourself, before you start work, be sure to watch how to cover walls with MDF panels video. This will help you understand the essence of the process and glean some subtleties that we cannot mention due to the scope of the article.

So, we have decided on the intricacies of the process, which means we can proceed directly to installation, and it begins not with the panels themselves, but with careful preparation of the surface and the manufacture of the sheathing.

Preparatory work

In fact, covering walls with MDF is not difficult; it is much more difficult to prepare the walls and assemble the sheathing. The subsequent quality of the finish and how long it will last without alteration and restoration will depend on this.

First of all, we prepare all the necessary tools so that we don’t have to look for them throughout the house later. Everything should be at hand, and then the process will go much faster and easier.

So, to finish the panels we will need the following set of tools:

  • Roulette.
  • Pencil.
  • Building level.
  • Hammer.
  • Wood saw.
  • A hammer drill and a drill for it, with a diameter corresponding to the selected dowels.
  • Brushes or paint roller.
  • Construction stapler and staples for it.

Now that everything is at hand, let's move on to the next stage.

Wall marking

Before you cover the wall with MDF and make the sheathing, you need to clearly decide which way your panels will go, horizontally or vertically. It is necessary to decide at this stage, since the installation takes place in a perpendicular order.

If you have decided on this issue, then you can proceed to applying markings. We'll talk about vertical installation panels, since it is considered more common.

First of all, we need to secure the outer bars, and to do this we find the lowest point from the ceiling and from the floor. We retreat approximately five centimeters from these points, and using building level draw a line around the entire perimeter of the room.

Now we have the extreme lines, and, starting from them, we divide the entire wall into equal sections, approximately 40-60 centimeters each. This distance is enough so that the panels do not sag and stand level.

Now that all the lines have been drawn, we put marks on each of them approximately 50 centimeters apart. At these points, the guide battens will be fixed to the wall, so you shouldn’t waste time on trifles; the more often the fasteners are in place, the stronger the structure will be.

Construction of sheathing

Instructions on how to properly assemble the sheathing are clearly shown in the video in this article. Be sure to watch it until the end to clearly understand the whole process, and in the meantime we will continue.

In those places where we placed marks on the horizontal lines, using a hammer drill we drill holes of the required depth. Now, using dowels, we nail the metal braces to the wall, which will hold the guides, and bend their ends perpendicular to the wall.

To make the sheathing, you can use three materials, each of which has its own pros and cons:

  1. Wooden beam. The cheapest, but at the same time weak material. As you know, wood is susceptible to many negative impacts, and subsequently certain difficulties may arise with it.
  2. Metal profile for drywall. Metal is more resistant to various influences, but upon contact with moisture, it begins to become covered with rust, which after a certain time can appear on the surface of the panels.
  3. Galvanized profile. The most expensive material of all listed, but at the same time the most stable. The galvanized profile is not afraid of contact with water and easily tolerates temperature changes, so it can be used in rooms with an aggressive environment, such as the kitchen or bathroom.

Important! If you need to cut a galvanized profile, under no circumstances use a grinder for this. From high revs, that's all protective covering it will simply burn out and the profile will remain unprotected.

Panel installation

So, our sheathing is ready, which means we have directly approached the question of how to cover the walls with MDF panels. In fact, the worst is already behind us and the process of installing panels is the easiest stage. You can start installation from any side that is convenient for you, there are no specific rules here, we just take the panel, place it against the corner and, using a stapler, through the ridge, fasten it to the sheathing.

One of the photos shows how the installation begins, and that the next bracket is driven into the ridge. We remind you that we are talking about how to sheathe walls MDF boards using a stapler, and if you choose clamps, the technology will be slightly different, and you can read more about this in one of the articles on our website.

Next, insert the next panel into the groove, the one we just secured and repeat all the steps. This way, all the walls are sewn up, and there shouldn’t be any difficulties at this stage. The walls are ready, and all that remains is to fix the decorative corners. They are mounted with PVA glue. Everything is simple and clear, so we won’t even focus on this.

And in conclusion

Well, now we have figured out the question of how to sheathe walls with MDF. As you can see, there is nothing complicated or impossible here. The main thing is not to be afraid of difficulties, and to boldly get down to work, and if you still have questions, then you can read other articles on our website, where, we are sure, you will find answers to all your questions.

If your apartment has not been renovated for a long time, and the walls have lost their appearance– the best replacement for wallpaper or tiles will be MDF panels. They are ideal for interior decoration premises, as they have an attractive appearance and are made from environmentally friendly pure materials. Besides, high-quality installation panels can be completed by anyone with basic technical and construction skills. Today we will talk about the features of finishing a room with MDF panels and give step by step instructions on installation.

What is MDF

MDF is a panel finishing material obtained from woodworking waste through dry hot pressing of fine chips. When heated, wood releases a substance called lignin, which acts as a glue. The structure of MDF resembles felt made from wood fibers. The main advantage of such panels is their high moisture resistance. As a result, they are often used for covering walls, floors and ceilings in rooms with high humidity air, for example, in the bathroom or toilet. However, due to its attractive appearance, such finishing is often found wide application in halls and offices. Surfaces lined with MDF in the corridor and loggia also look great. Material cost compared to tiles– low, but the walls will be perfectly smooth.

If you decide to install the panels yourself, then first you should prepare the necessary tools and materials for the work.

What you will need for installation

For a quality finish MDF walls you will need the following materials and tools:

  • Insulation ( mineral wool, penofol, polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam). We'll look at each type in more detail a little later.
  • MDF panels. There are many models that differ in thickness, color and structure, so the choice is yours.
  • Slats or galvanized profiles for installing sheathing. Width and thickness – 40 and 20 mm, respectively. The length is selected depending on the size of the wall.
  • Self-tapping screws are needed to fasten the panels to the sheathing.
  • Clamps are special elements necessary for fastening panels to each other and to the sheathing. Often available complete with panels.
  • A plumb line is a nut or any other small metal object, tied to a fishing line or thread.
  • Building level.
  • Yardstick.
  • Pencil or marker.
  • Plane.
  • Metal corner (metal square). Needed for cutting pieces of panels for slopes.
  • An electric jigsaw is used to cut MDF. You can also use a hacksaw or circular saw. The latter, due to its compactness, is very convenient to use. It can cut both wood and metal - simply by changing the complete wheels.
  • Hammer drill with concrete drill.
  • A screwdriver, drill or screwdriver with a screw attachment.

Toolkit in the photo

Preparing the walls

Preparing walls before installing sheathing

Before you start facing works, you need to make sure that the room is suitable for installing panels. If strong swelling of wallpaper, drywall, or peeling of plaster is visible on the walls, then you should first clean them of old finishing materials. Also, do not forget about baseboards and decorative corners (if any) used to hide the joints of walls and ceilings.

Helpful advice: Old finish It is advisable to remove completely, that is, up to the main wall. This way you will save on fasteners and reveal hidden surface damage.

When the walls are cleaned, you can proceed directly to installing the sheathing under the MDF panel, but first, let's find out what types of lathing there are.

Types of sheathing

The most popular technologies for installing MDF wall panels today are:

  1. Wooden sheathing. This design is easy to make and does not require large quantity fastening elements. However, wooden sheathing requires pre-impregnation. special means, in order to prevent the appearance of fungus, rot, and mold. If the room has high humidity, then you should not use wooden sheathing in this case.
  2. Lathing made of galvanized profiles. Often, metal structures are used as sheathing for drywall, although they are quite suitable for covering walls with MDF panels. But galvanized profiles are not suitable for forming a frame on the floor due to their low strength. As for the ceiling, a structure made of light metal rather than timber is just right here.

Installation

The installation of lattice structures made of metal and wood has several differences. For example, when using galvanized profiles, they should be fastened only with powerful and long self-tapping screws. Using dowel nails in this case does not make sense - the tenacity between the profile and the fastener itself will be lost.

Most important point, on which the strength of the fit of the fasteners and the entire structure depends, is the fixation of the body of the self-tapping screw or dowel-nail (with wooden sheathing) at least 35 mm in the wall. For example, if the thickness of the rail or profile is 20 mm, and the MDF panel is 10 mm, then the depth of the groove for the mounting socket and, accordingly, the fasteners should be about 65 mm, or preferably more. The diameter of the fasteners is selected from 4 to 6 mm, depending on the density of the wall. The stronger it is, the smaller the diameter of the screw should be. All fasteners are equipped with a special socket. When drilling a groove, the diameter must be compared with the diameter of the body of the socket, and not its head, otherwise the safety margin will be insufficient.

Installation of a wooden structure

Installation of wooden sheathing

We start with the installation of vertical racks. We install slats in each corner in pairs - so that they form a right angle, as well as along the edges of door and window openings along the entire height of the room. To ensure that the racks take an exactly vertical position, we use a plumb line. Now in order:

  1. We apply the strip to the wall and outline it on either side with a pencil or marker.
  2. We make holes for fasteners using a hammer drill with a concrete drill. For structural strength, the drilling pitch should be in the range from 0.4 to 0.5 m.
  3. We drive the sockets for the fasteners into the holes and make marks of their location on the rack itself.
  4. We drill holes in the rail with a diameter slightly smaller than the mounting hole.
  5. We install the racks in place using self-tapping screws or dowel nails.
  6. We install horizontal bars in the same way. The step remains the same. Don't forget to decorate the slopes with slats.
  7. At the end, we remove the ledge elements at the joints of the structure using a plane.

Fastening the metal base

The procedure for installing a structure made of galvanized profiles is completely similar to the above. First, the racks are placed in the corners of the room and in the places of openings for marking the walls. Afterwards, holes are made for fastening and installation of vertical profiles. UD type profiles are used as racks. In the marked places, horizontal profiles of the CD type are inserted into them in accordance with a step of 0.4–0.5 m. Afterwards, the transverse strips are attached to the racks and the wall. Elements between each other metal structure connected using ordinary self-tapping screws. As was said earlier, such a sheathing needs to be attached to the wall only with powerful fasteners (dowel-nails will not work).

Helpful hint: for cutting metal profiles It is recommended to use a grinder or a hand-held circular saw with an appropriate attachment. The efficiency of a jigsaw even with a metal file is much less.

About thermal insulation

Installation of insulation

The installation of the sheathing is complete, but before moving on to the installation of MDF panels, the walls should be insulated. This will allow you to save a lot on heating the room, and also increase its thermal insulation. In addition, insulation additionally prevents the formation of mold, mildew and moisture in the voids of the sheathing. It is recommended to fill the cells in the sheathing with one of the following insulation materials:

  • Penofol is a relatively new multilayer insulation material that consists of polyethylene foam and polished foil with a reflectance coefficient of 97%. It is fireproof, environmentally friendly, has good noise insulation and low vapor permeability.
  • Mineral wool. The material has gained great popularity due to its high thermal insulation and moisture resistant properties.
  • Styrofoam. Air is the best heat insulator, and this material 98% consists of it. All this is thanks to the polystyrene granules that are formed in the foam during the production process. The material has high moisture and vapor resistance.
  • Extruded polystyrene foam. This type of foam is obtained by melting with extrusion. The seal is not cheap, but it fully justifies its price. The material has excellent thermal insulation, as well as a high compression ratio. Therefore, it is often used to insulate floors.

Installation of this thermal insulation material very simple:

  1. Sheets are cut from a roll of insulation in accordance with the cell sizes (lathing pitch).
  2. After this they are attached to the wall using construction foam or silicone glue.
  3. Protrusions formed polyurethane foam are removed using a utility knife.

After insulating the walls, we move on to the most interesting part - the technology of wall cladding with panels.

Installation of MDF panels

Installation of panels

Laying the product should start from the corner. The installation procedure is as follows:

  1. We apply the panel to the corner and check whether it fits tightly to the sheathing. Then we evaluate the evenness of the surface using a building level.
  2. If all is well, from the corner side along the entire height of the structure we fasten the panel with self-tapping screws to the sheathing.
  3. Subsequent strips are connected using clamps, which are inserted into the groove of the panel. It is advisable to fix these staples with nails to the sheathing.
  4. We slide the ridge of the next one into the groove of the first corner panel. In this case, it is necessary to control the tightness of their fit. If cracks are found, you should slightly trim the ridge of one panel with a knife and try to put it in place again.
  5. We attach the MDF plank to the sheathing using self-tapping screws along the entire height of the structure.
  6. The installation process is then repeated.
  7. The last panel must be pressed all the way to the penultimate one and secured at the free edge with self-tapping screws.

Important: If the last plank does not fit into the remaining space, you can still carefully shorten it in width using a jigsaw.

Slope finishing

This procedure is similar to installing panels. In addition, when finishing slopes, there are two decoration options. The first is to install the panel lengthwise, the second is to install it across. If the slope is small and its width does not exceed 1.8 times the width finishing panel– transverse cladding is performed. At wide slopes you can resort to any of the methods.

Helpful information: great view have slopes sheathed across, with alternating dark and light tones.

The finished look is given by fittings, thanks to which you can hide the corner joints between the panels. Folding corners cover up defects well. WITH inside You need to apply glue to them and press the product tightly to the sheathing in the corner. To hide the joints with the floor and ceiling, you can use a plinth.

Video instructions for working with wall panels

As you can see, there is nothing complicated in installing MDF panels, and this work can be done without help construction foreman. We hope that our article will help you produce high-quality finishing premises that will not only insulate your home, but will also last for many years.

Wooden boards become more and more expensive every year. Not everyone can afford to decorate and furnish a room from natural material. The choice, most often, falls on an inexpensive, practical substitute.

MDF appeared on the building materials market a long time ago and quickly gained popularity. MDF has been going on in Russia for several decades. You don’t have to be a master of the highest order to quickly and inexpensively give a room a new, ennobled look. All you need is precision, accuracy and basic home craftsman skills.

What are MDF?

This construction material It is produced by hot pressing of dry crushed waste from wood processing enterprises. Under the influence of steam, sawdust becomes soft and pliable. The smallest fibers, twisting, are connected to each other even without the intervention of adhesive components. As a result, the structure of the panel becomes similar to felt, but compacted with enormous pressure. What do MDF panels look like visually? The photos used in the article will give you an idea about them.

MDF boards are not distinguished by any super-strong characteristics, but due to the absence of adhesives in their composition, they are completely harmless. The panels can be installed using any wood glue.

Tool used

Of course, you can’t provide everything, but the main tool, which you can’t do without, should be at hand:

  1. Roulette. It is better to use a 5-meter specimen.
  2. It can be made from a regular harness with a nut attached to the end.
  3. Drill attachment. Perfectly replaces a screwdriver.
  4. Metal bench square with different legs. It is useful for cutting slopes.
  5. A jigsaw or any fine-toothed hacksaw. It is advisable to have two hacksaws - with a transverse and longitudinal cut.
  6. A grinder for cutting metal profiles if the frame will be assembled from them. The tool must have a protective casing.
  7. The usual tools that every owner should have: a knife, screwdrivers, a pencil or marker, a set of drills, a hammer, small nails (shoe nails).

Preparatory work

Before attaching MDF panels, you will have to do a lot preparatory work. It is necessary for the reliability of the fastener. WITH wooden surfaces everything is clear - here the installation process is much simpler. Difficulties arise with brick walls.

First of all, you need to remove the baseboards. It is better to remove swollen or crumbling plaster completely, down to the base. Hidden defects in the main walls will be immediately noticeable and need to be eliminated.

Installation process

Finishing with MDF panels is carried out in two ways:

1) using glue;

2) installation of a rigid frame.

The frame is assembled from wood or from special MDF (this is made of thin metal).

It is easier and cheaper to make lathing from. Although the entire frame will need to be processed later fire-fighting composition. This will also take some time. Wall panels They are attached to the slats using clamps (another name is clips). The slats themselves are located perpendicular to the wall panels.

Frame method

So, let's look at how to attach MDF panels. Depending on the size of the boards, the number of rows of slats will be different. In a standard room, where the ceiling height does not exceed 2.5 m, 4-5 runs along the entire wall will be enough. The main thing is that after installation the panels stand tightly and do not “play” after any touch.

The top bar of the frame is attached 15-20 cm below the ceiling. The bottom bar is fixed at the same distance from the floor. The middle frame slats are placed in equal proportions between the outer bars. It is advisable that the distance between the slats does not exceed 50-60 cm. Also, do not forget about fastening the frame around the perimeter around windows and doors.

Where the groove is located on the panel, a clamp is attached. After trying on the upper and lower elements and making sure that the wall board is level, the outer clips are fixed to the planks with self-tapping screws. After this, the remaining fasteners are added - according to the number of frame runs. The next board is inserted with a tenon into the groove of the first panel and is also fixed with clips along all the planks.

Do not forget that the very first panel is rigidly fastened along all the slats with self-tapping screws on the tenon side. The outer board, which is rarely intact, is also tightly attached. All traces of installation are usually hidden behind decorative corners. Great option V in this case - MDF profile. It will organically fit into the overall design of the room.

Glue method

Another way to attach MDF panels requires a perfectly flat and clean wall. The load-bearing surface can be any - plywood, concrete, brick or plasterboard. Panels are often glued using “liquid nails”. This glue is suitable for any surface.

This installation method has serious disadvantages. Dismantling the premises is difficult. The board keeps breaking. To level the wall, you have to clean off the remnants of hardened glue, and this is quite difficult.

Replacing several wall boards with new ones will also entail a lot of problems. The entire remaining wall may rise up, lose all harmony, and, accordingly, its attractive appearance.

In addition, the inside of the MDF boards is not treated with a moisture-repellent composition, and if they get wet load-bearing wall The panel will swell over time and begin to warp.

Which way is better?

If the height of the walls is large or you decide to lay MDF panels horizontally, along the length of the room, it will be better suited frame option. This method also provides for insulation of the walls, however, this will slightly reduce the volume of the room. This method is also useful in cases where there is a large uneven surface.

A room with low ceilings and smooth walls It’s faster and cheaper to “ennoble” it using the adhesive method. Here the loss in room size will be minimal.

It’s worth deciding on the performers upcoming work. Installation of MDF panels consists not only of the direct installation of the boards themselves. Before starting work, you need to decide on the quantity of purchased material and fasteners. We must also remember that there are certain nuances that to an ordinary person, may be unknown to the average person. In the future, finishing walls with MDF panels will take time, proportional to your experience.

Pre-treatment and repair of main walls also require some knowledge and skills. The solution comes naturally - it’s better to entrust the repairs to professionals.

Now you have an idea of ​​how to attach MDF panels. There is nothing tricky or extremely complicated in such work, but the master, of course, will do it both better and faster. However, it all depends on the thickness of the wallet and the amount of experience you have in carrying out such work. The choice is yours.