The first thing a person usually pays attention to when entering an apartment is the walls and ceiling. While small defects on the walls can be somehow hidden, cracks and roughness on the ceiling are difficult to hide. Despite the popularity of suspended ceilings, plaster remains the simplest and most in an economical way finishing.
Questions often arise: what is the difference between puttying and plastering and is it really necessary to putty the ceiling before painting? The purpose of puttying is to level the surfaces of walls, ceilings or window slopes. It is most often used to eliminate small cracks and has the form of a special paste-like mass. Another function of putty is to prepare a perfectly smooth and even surface.
The composition of the plaster is completely different. This composition can be applied to surfaces made of brick, foam blocks, and concrete. The main difference between plaster and putty is the grain size. The structure of putty is fine-grained, while plasters are coarse-grained. The maximum layer of plaster is 50mm, while putty cannot be applied in a thick layer. Drying speed is another factor in which plastering and putty differ. Obviously, a thick layer dries slower than a thin one.
Puttying alone will not eliminate large defects in the ceiling surface
Thus, plaster is used for rough surface finishing. (Except for those cases when finishing decorative plaster is applied to the ceiling.) This is an intermediate treatment of walls or ceilings, while putty can be finishing or starting. Puttying is done after plastering and applying a primer.
If the surfaces contain small defects, they can be corrected using putty. But if it is necessary to level the surface or eliminate gross defects, you cannot do without plaster. Plaster creates a rough surface, while putty creates a smooth surface.
No need to hire construction team To eliminate ceiling defects, it is quite possible to do it yourself.
To perform the work you need to purchase the following set of materials and tools:
Before plastering the ceiling for painting, you should carefully prepare the surface.
The preparatory stage includes the following procedures:
If there are pockets of fungus on the ceiling, what spoils appearance and harmful to health, they are a must treat with solution copper sulfate(based on 5 grams per 1 liter of water).
The ceiling is cleaned using a special scraper or spatula. You can easily remove both wet and dry paint. In order to clean the ceiling faster and more efficiently, It is recommended to moisten the surface, after which it should be washed thoroughly.
After all the preparatory operations, waiting for the surface to dry completely, you can proceed to the next stage.
Before plastering the ceiling for painting to increase the level of adhesion (sticking of the solution to the surface) It is recommended to apply two layers of priming. In the main areas this can be done with a roller, but in hard-to-reach areas it is better and more convenient to use a brush. While the primer dries, you can prepare the solution.
Machine plastering will significantly reduce time costs, but it is only applicable over large areas
On the packaging of the dry mixture, the manufacturer indicates the preparation procedure and proportions of the solution.
The algorithm of actions is as follows:
Can be purchased ready solution V hardware store, you can do it yourself. Most often used to level the ceiling gypsum plaster trademark Rothband.
Depending on the type of solution, the consumption of the self-prepared mixture differs. The approximate amount of mortar per 1 m2 for plastering ceilings can be calculated using tables.
Consumption of plaster per 1 m2
when leveling ceilingslime– cement mortars (mortar composition: 1 part cement: 1 part lime: 6 parts sand)
Consumption of plaster per 1 m2 when leveling ceilingslime– cement mortars (mortar composition: 1 part cement: 2 parts lime: 5 parts sand)
When preparing a solution with your own hands, it is important to take into account the correct ratio of components.
Dry mixtures for plastering ceilings have a wide variety of compositions and many subtleties of their intended purpose. Therefore, you need to carefully study the manufacturer’s recommendations for the use of a specific mixture.
Once the primer has dried, you can proceed to plastering the ceilings. If there are depressions on the surface, they should be lined with reinforcing mesh.. If the surface is flat, there is no need to use a serpyanka.
When plastering usually install beacons, which is the most crucial moment. If the beacons are fixed correctly, in the end you will get the most even plastered surface. Therefore, it is important that all technological sequence leveling the surface using beacons.
The process of installing beacons is not difficult, but requires care.
It is as follows:
It should be noted that maximum thickness the future plaster layer should not be more than 50mm, so the height installed beacons should not be greater than this value. To check the correct installation of beacons in the horizontal plane, it is recommended to use a two-meter level.
If it is intended to apply several layers, it is necessary to take into account that the next layer of gypsum mortar is applied 20-25 minutes after applying the first one, cement mortar - after 2 hours, lime mortar - after it dries a little and turns white.
To plaster ceilings for painting you will need:
To obtain a perfectly smooth surface after complete drying, it is recommended to putty, which is finishing before painting the ceiling. To decorate the ceiling, it is important to have a smooth and even surface.. If flat surface It is easy to obtain as a result of plastering, but it acquires smoothness only as a result of puttying, which is an important factor for subsequent painting. In this case, the painted and smooth ceiling will be a harmonious continuation interior design. The principle of putty work practically coincides with the principle of plastering.
Properly performed work makes it possible to forget about plastering the ceiling for many years.
When working with lime plaster eyes and hands should be protected
Price for work excluding materials manually on average is from 450 rubles. for 1m2. Machine-made ceiling plaster is somewhat cheaper and costs from 350 rubles. for 1m2. The cost of plastering the ceiling with your own hands is naturally lower. But if you are not confident in your own competence, it is better to turn to the experts.
More information about ceiling plaster can be seen in the video:
Certainly, ceiling structures They also take a little centimeters away, depending on the material used. So, the distance between the suspended ceiling and the ceiling surface will be equal to the width of the profile (about 4 centimeters).
Important. For subsequent painting of the ceiling, it is necessary to create a completely flat surface. Only in this case, the end result will be impressive.
Now we come to the main question, how to level the ceiling with plaster? First, you should take a good look at the area and decide whether it is worth plastering at all. The fact is that it is not necessary to proceed with this labor-intensive procedure if the surface unevenness is no more than 5 mm. In this case, you can only cover the ceiling with putty using a spatula and a rule.
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We have already talked about a layer of solution that exceeds 5 cm earlier. It is better not to start this idea, which threatens human life and health. And beginners are recommended to plaster the ceiling only with a layer not exceeding 3 centimeters.
A ceiling that has many problems must undergo careful preparation before plastering begins. The entire surface should be well moistened with water. It is better to do this procedure 2-3 times, taking a break between them - 2 hours. This way, it will be easier to remove the old plaster, and there will be much less dust. The old coating must be cleaned down to the very base. In places where the solution is difficult to remove, you can use a hammer drill. Thoroughly clean the seams between the coating from pieces of plaster. After this, all dust and dirt must be removed from the surface using a damp sponge.
Important. If indoors high humidity, and there were traces of fungus or mold on the ceiling, be sure to treat it with an antiseptic primer.
After applying the antiseptic mixture, the ceiling will no longer be attacked by fungus. It is worth noting that using any product containing chlorine can only destroy mold. However, after treating the surface with antiseptic primer, the fungus will never appear again. Therefore it is better to this operation and don’t skimp on little things.
Now you need to coat the ceiling with primer deep penetration. Thanks to it, the concrete layer will be well fixed, and the adhesion between the base and the plaster will improve.
Plastering the ceiling can be done using cement-lime mixtures. You can also use modern gypsum-based plasters for the ceiling. It is with the help of this composition that you can easily bring the ceiling to perfect condition. Gypsum coating can withstand a small percentage of building shrinkage. Under the same conditions, the cement-lime finish may crack.
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Gypsum plaster has excellent adhesion to the concrete surface; it is worth paying attention to the fact that it is mainly ceiling has a concrete base. In this case, the solution can simply be spread on the surface, and not just thrown on, as is the case with cement-based lime mortar. That's why even a beginner can handle the gypsum mixture.
For better leveling of the ceiling, installation of beacons is used. This makes it possible to eliminate even significant differences existing on the surface. To do this, use a laser level to determine the lowest point of the ceiling. Having retreated 10 mm below the point, a section of plaster is beaten off and profiles are installed.
In order for the beacons to be fastened evenly, you need to fill the nails along the line and pull the fishing line over them. Using the line as a guide, we make several piles of mortar along the line and press the profile into them. The distance between them should be less than the rule you will be working with. More details can be seen in the video. With the help of beacons you will never be mistaken with the height of the solution layer.
Advice. Working with a short rule is much easier. The long rule makes it possible to install beacons on longer distance between themselves. In this case, the surface can be made more even.
Using a spatula plaster mixture placed on the ceiling in such a way as to hide the beacons. By moving the rule in a zigzag manner, excess plaster is removed. According to the technology for applying the mixture to the ceiling, a layer should be applied no higher than 2 cm. If unevenness still appears on the surface, apply a second layer of solution only after the first layer has completely dried.
Important: If the ceiling is plastered in two layers, then install between the beacons plaster mesh immediately after treating the surface with the first layer. In this case, the plaster will not crack.
The last operation to level the ceiling is putty. If used for surface treatment gypsum mixture, then you can immediately finish the ceiling with the final putty.
If this is your first time repairing the ceiling, it is better to apply two layers of putty, but in a thin layer. Two thin layers will give a smoother surface than one thick one. In this case, after applying the first layer, you need to wait until it dries. And only after that proceed to applying the next layer of solution. This is done using a wide spatula.
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Now you can start sanding the ceiling surface. To do this, use a grater on which a sanding mesh is applied. if you have Sander, with its help you will cope with this operation faster. When sanding the ceiling, be sure to use a respirator and goggles.
The decision to use textured plaster to finish the ceiling can be assessed ambiguously. For example, for the kitchen this option is not acceptable at all. The fact is that removing dust from such a finish will not be easy. In this case, you can use textured polymer-based plaster. If you are preparing the ceiling for painting, it is better to re-prime it. In this case, less paint will be used, and the ceiling will last longer.
It has long been known that a person’s first impressions of a room are formed when they see the ceiling. And although many options for its design have appeared - suspended, tensioned, decorated, but classic plaster the ceiling does not lose its relevance.
The first thing the eye stops on when examining the ceiling is whether it is level or not. The presence of cracks, holes, depressions and humps is noted. To avoid all this, the surface is leveled before final processing. Finishing It can be different - painting, decorative putty or some other finishing, but such coating is usually carried out on a flat surface.
In professional jargon, there are the following leveling methods - “dry” and “wet”. The first of them involves the use of various boards (such as plasterboard, etc.), thanks to which a new, flat surface will be created. With the “wet” method, various mixtures and solutions are used and the ceiling is leveled with plaster.
Which method is preferable is a matter of personal choice, but there are certain rules by following which it is possible to assess the compliance of the leveling method with real conditions. If differences in ceiling height exceed 5 cm, then for leveling it is best to use the same plasterboard slabs. Plaster of such thickness will already pose a certain danger, since when performing work with violations of technology or general requirements, it may peel off.
If the ceiling is fairly flat and the height differences do not exceed 2 cm, then ceiling plaster can be used to correct the surface. Basically, to get good quality When painting the ceiling, it is not necessary that it be perfectly smooth. The most important thing for painting is that it be smooth. But a flat ceiling gives a significant advantage in aesthetic terms.
For leveling, plaster mixtures using cement or gypsum are used. Gypsum-based mixtures are considered more environmentally friendly, dry faster and create less dirt during operation, and cement-based mixtures are cheaper than gypsum ones.
According to experts, mixtures using gypsum are best used for interior work, and cement for external ones.
Plastering the ceiling with your own hands means that the work will require the following tools:
Some of these tools are shown in the photo below:
Before you begin leveling the ceiling, you need to bring it into proper condition. The surface must be prepared for applying the mixture. This work begins with the removal old plaster and paints. How to remove plaster from a ceiling? Use a sharp spatula, sharpening it as you go if necessary.
If the ceiling is covered with ordinary lime, then it must be moistened with plain water. To make it easier to remove water-based paint, it is recommended to add iodine to the water. For removing water-dispersion paints You can use special washes.
In addition to paint, it is necessary to remove all loose pieces of plaster and any irregularities protruding from the surface. You also need to get rid of the plaster from the joints of the slabs. To do this, you can use a hammer or the same spatula. Only plaster that breaks off without effort or has already come away from the slab should be removed from the joints.
It is imperative to check the surface for the presence of fungus, especially if there was high humidity in the room. It is dangerous to human health. To remove fungus from small areas, they can be treated with a solution of copper sulfate. If affected big square, then they chop off the outer layer of the surface and treat the infected area with a burner flame.
After completing all of the above work, the cleaned and prepared surface is treated with a deep penetration primer. Smooth areas are treated with a roller, and with a brush – the joints of the slabs and the places where pipes pass.
To avoid confusion in the future, we must now distinguish between these two concepts. Putty is the final stage of work before finishing the surface; the thickness of the resulting coating layer should not exceed three millimeters. Putty is usually performed using a fine mixture of gypsum.
Ceiling plastering is carried out using coarse mixtures based on cement or gypsum. Its purpose is to level the surface with height differences of up to five centimeters. Puttying is carried out after leveling with plaster, preparing the surface for finishing.
This question is quite simple, you just need to follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for preparing the mixture. General rules are:
The mixture is applied to the ceiling using a spatula; it is better to use a plastic spatula for application, and a metal spatula for leveling. Or use a trowel for this - a special trowel with a curved handle. A picture showing the process of applying the mixture is given below:
After the plaster has been applied, it is leveled and rubbed.
The task of how to level a ceiling with plaster, despite its relative simplicity, can be broken down into several completely independent, albeit similar, operations. The fact is that there are no identical ceilings, and often you have to solve the problem of its alignment in relation to a specific situation.
In such a situation, after applying the primer, small cracks and holes are sealed. Apply the finished mixture into them with a spatula and level it. Possible here different situations, for example, leveling out small defects in the base, when you can get by with a thin layer of plaster. The whole process of how the ceiling is plastered, watch the video below:
In cases where the ceiling is not too smooth, it is necessary to apply general plaster over the entire ceiling in a thick layer.
Additionally, it can be noted that if the defects are large and a lot of mixture has to be used, then ceiling plaster on a grid is used. A layer of painting mesh, also called serpyanka, is attached to the ceiling. Serpyanka looks like gauze and is a reinforcing mesh. It is attached to the ceiling, then plaster is applied to it. It is necessary to use a mesh when the thickness of the plaster layer is more than a centimeter.
Wooden ceilings require their own surface preparation. It is impossible to level such a ceiling with a thin layer of plaster. In addition, if they walk on the second floor or attic, the floor will sag, and this will cause the plaster on the first floor ceiling to peel off. Therefore, plastering of a wooden ceiling is done using a mesh or old recipes using shingles. Stuff the shingles in two layers located at an angle:
The heads of the nails should not extend beyond the surface of the slats.
Subsequently, plastering is carried out in the usual way– throw the plaster onto the surface or apply it with a spatula, followed by leveling and grouting.
If the ceiling is quite “crooked”, then to level it, beacons are used, which are additionally installed on the ceiling, thanks to which a flat plane will be created. The rule is moved along this plane, leveling the applied plaster. Photos of installed beacons can be seen below:
The entire procedure for plastering beacons is almost no different from the standard one. Watch how ceiling plaster is made, video at the end of the material.
Plastering a plasterboard ceiling, or better to call this procedure putty, is practically no different from the usual one. All formed dents, depressions and damage on the surface of the slabs are filled, the joints of the slabs can be glued with serpyanka, if the total thickness of the plaster exceeds 15 mm, then it is necessary to use a mesh over the entire surface.
Usually the ceiling is prepared for painting. But the finishing operation does not necessarily have to be painting. For example, to obtain unusual-looking surfaces, decorative plaster on the ceiling (the same decorative bark beetle plaster) can be used. A variant of this finish is shown in the photo below:
You can also use other special types of plaster that create certain patterns on the ceiling, for example, imitating the surface of stone, or, through the use of special tools and application techniques, obtain original views coverings. What it might look like when applied textured plaster on the ceiling, can be seen in the photo below.
The putty technology itself does not change depending on the type of application surface. But the preparation for plastering a concrete ceiling in a new building, previously puttied and painted, and also a plasterboard ceiling is very different. In order for you to be satisfied with the final result, you need to approach the surface preparation correctly.
How to level the ceiling in an apartment in a new house? First of all, you need to find all the irregularities (deepening and bulges), so to speak, carry out flaw detection. Professionals have a special device for this - a flaw detector, but everything can be done without it.
To obtain an ideal horizon line you need laser level, if you are not so picky, then you can use an ordinary level and make marks. We’ll talk about how to plaster the ceiling with your own hands in a new building a little later.
It is quite difficult to level the ceiling yourself, so you need to call a partner. To plaster the ceiling along the beacons you will need the following tools:
From materials, take metal beacons, starting putty and abrasive mesh. If everything is ready, you can start.
Sequence of work:
You learned how to level the ceiling with plaster in a new house. But what to do if you start repairs in old apartment?
The most important difference from preparation concrete surface is a routine job of cleaning it from old layers. It could be pasted wallpaper or just putty from an old renovation that is already starting to crumble. This is usually done by hand using a scraper and water. If the layers don't come off well, sometimes you may need a hammer.
The nice thing is that the ceiling is already flat and to plaster a plasterboard ceiling you only need to properly seal all the joints of the sheets. To do this you need a spatula (narrow and wide), as well as a knife. You should also purchase reinforcing mesh tape, putty for joints and an abrasive mesh.
Stages of work:
Plastering a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands is not a difficult task, but it is responsible. If you use regular putty to fill the seams, it doesn’t matter whether it’s starting or finishing, cracks are guaranteed to appear later.
There is already a question of saving time and money. In stores you can buy ready-made, already prepared putty, which is sold in buckets and is immediately ready for application. This putty is of course more expensive, but purchasing it saves a lot of time during repairs. So if you value more time than money, it's definitely your choice.
You can plaster the ceiling with your own hands using ordinary plaster, which is sold in the form of a dry mixture. Before starting work, you will have to mix it with water to obtain desired result and only then start plastering the ceiling with your own hands. For such work, a power tool (drill) must be used and it takes a lot of time and effort. The shelf life of such a mixture is much longer than that of ready-made putty.(up to six months versus several days). This is also a good option to save money and spend it on necessary purchases, and it is well suited for do-it-yourself decorative plaster of the ceiling.
There is also a difference in the time it takes to complete the work. For initial (rough) work, initial putty is purchased, it is also called “Start”. It doesn't shrink as much and is suitable for leveling strong unevenness.
But to level the ceiling for painting, a special one is used. finishing putty("Finish"). It is of better quality and gives strong shrinkage, and of course perfect alignment. In practice, it is becoming increasingly popular to use only the finishing version. Then the approach is important, if it is done by a master of his craft, then the result will be pleasing to the eye years later. It is everyone’s choice of how to plaster the ceiling in a room.
It is important that the surface is ready for plastering the ceiling with your own hands for painting. A completely flat ceiling is the key to the final result. If you cannot level the ceiling with plaster yourself, ask a specialist to help you, otherwise your money and time will be wasted.
There should be no sections, holes, bulges or any noticeable or subtle irregularities on the surface. For this suitable for work starting putty, which is designed specifically for this.
Before applying decorative plaster to the ceiling with your own hands, you need to cover the surface with a strong penetration primer. This process prevents water from leaving the mixture, and it hardens under normal conditions and becomes as dense and strong as possible, without shrinking. The most common and convenient tool This is what a roller is for.
It gives better coverage due to tight contact and saves time compared to a regular brush. The fastest result will be obtained by using a spray bottle, but this requires respirators and the spray bottle itself. And the primer may not adhere perfectly due to uneven distribution. Then you can do a poor job of plastering the ceiling with your own hands before painting.
In addition to basic tools such as spatulas different sizes and a roller, you can’t do without a special bath that should contain a primer, stepladders, a flashlight (for a more thorough search for irregularities), an electrical device such as a drill or hammer drill with a stirring attachment. All this is needed to apply decorative plaster to the ceiling (photo)
All work takes place in two stages, or rather layers.
From the bucket with the mixture, scoop up about 150 grams of putty with a narrow spatula and spread it evenly along the edge of the wide spatula with a sliding motion.
Start moving the spatulas along the ceiling, keep the angle around 15 degrees c, apply the putty in cross movements and grab small pieces of the ceiling.
Then you will be able to plaster the ceiling, covering up even the smallest flaws with your own hands.
Don't press too hard or too lightly, try to press with the same force all the time, as a result, the layer thickness should be approximately 0.3 millimeters.
For one square meter On average it takes 10 minutes. But if it comes out slower, it’s okay, the main thing is to do it well. Do not leave marks from the spatula and do not miss any uneven surfaces. It was First stage, where they learned how to properly plaster a ceiling.
On average, the first layer dries within 24 hours, sometimes six or seven hours are enough. To plaster the ceiling with your own hands with the second layer, you need to wait this time, otherwise during the process you will notice that the previous layers begin to come off when you run a spatula over them.
The hardening time is also affected by the temperature in the room, the thickness of the rough layer and humidity. Of course, the layer that was applied with the initial plaster plays a role in the first place.
The purpose of the second layer is to perfectly level the ceiling. The layer usually does not exceed 0.2 or 0.3 millimeters. And the waste of material is noticeably less. But plastering the ceiling with your own hands, even with a second layer, does not mean finishing the job. Even after it there can, and most likely, are small flaws.
With the help of a flashlight and a stepladder you can spot them and deal with them. This should be done only after 3-5 hours after work. This will not take much time, but will significantly improve the result. And only after a day of drying comes the turn of final sanding.
Here you can watch how we plaster the ceiling with our own hands (video).
An important element Creating warmth and comfort of any home is the ceiling. It is attached to it beautiful chandelier emitting soft light. You can make the ceiling surface of an apartment or house elegant, solemn, and stylish using various construction techniques and finishing methods.
At modern capabilities choice building materialsCeiling surface repairs can be carried out different ways:
Any of these finishing options, each of which has its own pros and cons, is preceded by processes such as priming and plastering.
In a newly built house or apartment with concrete ceilings plastering begins with preparing the base. It is best to make the ceiling surface rough. To do this, apply a notch along the entire perimeter special tools or manually (using an ax).
After exposure in this way, notches remain on the surface of the ceiling., which will allow the plaster to adhere better in the future. After completing the priming work, you can begin treating the surface with cement mortar. They seal the ceiling part of the floor slabs.
An important factor What needs to be taken into account is the humidity in the room (no more than 30%).
In case of non-compliance with this parameter, as well as when applying cement plaster in another temperature conditions there will be a possibility of its poor fixation.
When we're talking about about an apartment or house in which they lived for a long period of time, then, having started plastering work, it is necessary to dismantle old surface(remove layers of paint, wallpaper and other materials). This process takes longer and requires labor.
The lime can be wetted with water and then removed with a spatula. old water-based paint, for example, is removed with a solution of iodine and water. For 1 bucket of water use a bottle (bottle) of iodine composition. If there was fungus on the ceiling, you can remove it by moistening the base with a mixture of copper sulfate and water (use 5 grams of the mixture per 1 liter of water).
Whitewashed and mortared ceilings are soaked with water, then use a spatula to remove the old layers. After dismantling, the surfaces are thoroughly washed off with water and given time to dry.
In a building with wooden ceiling plastering work ceiling surfaces they begin by pre-filling it with a mesh of metal or shingles (shingles). These auxiliary materials will help the subsequently applied layer of plaster to adhere tightly to the ceiling.
The ceiling lined with plasterboard slabs must be cleaned of dirt. An important point is that there is no need to install beacons.
A primer is applied to the dried surface at the joints of the plates (where the seams are). Such points are processed most carefully.
The points where the sheets are connected to each other (screws are screwed in) are tightened more tightly or a special tape is used. All protruding parts are pasted over with it, then the seams and irregularities are smoothed out during the puttying process.
After the primer layer has dried, the ceiling is puttied, and thus prepared for painting or wallpapering.
Drywall should be plastered if its surface is very moisture resistant.
When the sheets do not have such a quality characteristic, it is best not to carry out the plastering process.
If necessary, pasting plasterboard ceiling thin wallpaper It is possible to pre-plaster it. This is done so that the gypsum boards are not visible through the wallpaper.
Before you begin the process of plastering the ceiling surface with your own hands, you need to select a primer and putty.
For different types ceilings (concrete, wood, plasterboard) will require special mixtures and solution compositions for processing.
The following solutions are used for plastering ceilings and walls:
The modern construction industry offers wide range solutions and compositions for finishing ceilings.
Which one to choose for plastering in the best way can be found out by reading its quality characteristics. Finish plaster applied different solutions depending on the ceiling base.
The gypsum composition can be used for plastering work.
Its feature is its ability to withstand mechanical damage well. The ceiling will not crack after treatment with this mixture.
Polymer acrylic plaster is considered universal mixture. It can be used for any reason. It is moisture resistant and durable.
Decorative plaster divided into textured, relief, flock, terrazite, structural mixtures.
All of them are compositions that create volumetric view ceiling surfaces:
Cement compositions include sand and lime additives. They are not considered particularly durable, because over time, damage from mechanical influences. Cracks also appear in the ceiling.
Among the new mixtures often used in Lately, special place allocated to the new composition. Sand included cement mortar replaced with foam chips. The plastering solution is considered an insulating mixture. It also includes components such as pumice powder, foam granules, and perlite sand.
Foam chips non-toxic, absorbs sound well and has high thermal insulation. The material is fireproof and can withstand high sub-zero and plus temperatures.
The ceiling is very well leveled with a solution filled with foam chips.
Silk plaster consists of silk fibers. It also contains cellulose, glue and a number of additives that make the composition durable. These components make the putty porous, increasing sound insulation. Its qualities help retain heat, which can evaporate through a cold ceiling.
The mixture must be diluted with water, the result is a creamy composition. It is the type of its density that, when applied to the ceiling and walls, forms a layer that allows you to reliably hide defects and depressions. The result lives up to expectations. The surface is solid, without seams or joints. It is good to cover with this plaster concrete bases, after application, completely flat and smooth ceilings are obtained.
Speaking about tools and devices for work, it should be noted that putty is carried out using metal spatulas (of different widths), brushes, and rollers.
You will need a plaster mixture, a container of water, a trowel, a drill with an attachment or a mixer, a sanding float, and glue.
It is advisable to use a protective mask and goggles to prevent layers of old materials to be dismantled from getting into your eyes and respiratory tract. For drywall you will need a primer and putty.
In order to properly make the ceiling surface perfectly smooth and beautiful after plastering, auxiliary materials called beacons (beacons) are installed. The process of working with ceiling bases is labor-intensive. Each centimeter of thickness is applied with an additional layer of solution. Using beacons, this process can be reduced to a minimum.
They are attached to the ceiling base in such a way that the tops of these materials form a common, very flat plane. Beacons are made using different material. These could be wooden slats, metal profiles in the shape of the letter “T”, strips of plaster mortar.
The most time-consuming of the three methods is creating beacons from plaster.
They make stripes along the ceiling, acting as guides. The entire base of the ceiling is then leveled using them.
Making strips takes a fairly long period of time, but the advantage of the work is that upon completion of the work there is no need to remove such materials from the ceiling and seal the places where they were attached.
An advantage is the ability to make beacons of any height, since plaster is used as a raw material for their production.
Metal profiles T-shape often used for applying plaster to a ceiling base up to 1 cm thick. If it is necessary to create a thicker layer, a solution is placed under the beacons, thus allowing the required height to be achieved. It is easy to work with such profiles, but when applying a thick layer to the ceiling, the process of setting the beacons to the same height takes a lot of time.
Wooden slats You can also level the ceiling. But wood absorbs moisture in large volumes, so before work it is best to keep the slats in water so that when they dry, they do not change their size and thickness.
Convenient is their ease of installation and use.
Any type of beacons selected for installation on the ceiling in the bathroom, kitchen or living rooms, precedes the process of marking it. The methods for installing beacons for ceilings and walls are similar.
First you need to check the ceiling surface with a level or tapping thread. Determine the lowest point on the ceiling and make a mark (using painter's cord). From this point the installation of beacons begins.
Using masking tape, mark the ceiling on a line. Next, using a level (including a laser), the angles between the lines are checked so that they are strictly 90 degrees. Then the slats (beacons) are attached to the guide lines using screws.
The distance between the rows of slats should be no more than 20 cm. The screws are leveled so that after work the ceiling base can cover all defects and problem areas (protrusions, depressions). Where the lowest point of the ceiling surface was, the lighthouse is raised to maximum height, thereby aligning it with other lighthouses around the entire perimeter. As a rule, it is better to use a steel lath with a length of 60 cm to 1 m 40 cm. When plastering, it will move along the beacons over the entire area of the ceiling.
Preparation for further work ends here. Those interested can watch the video.
Before plastering different ceilings You must remember to prime any of them.
After the primer has dried, you can begin installing the beacons and the plastering process. For different types For ceilings (wooden, plasterboard, concrete), a special plaster mixture is used.
The technology of work is not particularly complicated. Initially, a solution or putty is prepared.
To make the mixture very plastic, it is customary to add PVA glue to it. Applying such a solution to the ceiling will ensure its quick setting and strong fixation on the surface. Whatever the thickness of the plaster layer, such a solution will not allow the ceiling to crack or crumble in the future.
Using a special mixer, make a mixture of water and PVA glue, gradually adding plaster to this liquid. Mix everything until a homogeneous mass is obtained.
The resulting solution is applied to the ceiling using a spatula. Application is done in large blobs; you need to make sure that they are next to each other. Fill all the voids and recesses with mortar, and then take a rule rail and run it along the beacons, as if on rails.
The result is a smooth fabric. In places where the plaster is superfluous, it is removed with a spatula.
In this way, the solution is poured, and a lath is drawn over it like a ruler, leveling the ceiling surface. After the entire ceiling is covered, the solution is given time to set for about 30 - 40 minutes and then they take the lath again - as a rule - and cut off all the protrusions and irregularities over the entire area. At the same moment, the beacons are taken out, and the places where they were attached are smoothly sealed with mortar. When this stage of work is completed, the solution is given time to completely dry, and after that the plastered surface should be treated with water. After washing, it is rubbed (smoothed) with a spatula. This completes the work on plastering the ceiling surfaces.
