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It is difficult to find a person who does not know what a potbelly stove is. This metal stove saved more than one generation from the cold and remains in demand to this day. This stove also has some disadvantages - rapid heat transfer. V. Loginov tried to increase the efficiency and improve the design. His undertakings were picked up by the reader of the magazine “SAM” N. Pyankov, both models are described in this article.

In 1996, the SAM magazine published a drawing of a modified potbelly stove with increased efficiency. V. Loginov replaced the ash pan door with an adjustable blower and achieved a significant increase in efficiency. Such a potbelly stove can burn on one load of wood for up to 10-12 hours. After publication in the magazine, craftsmen began to improve Loginov's design. Thus, N. Pyankov left the original dimensions of the furnace, but added a grate to the design and separated the combustion chamber with two metal plates to increase the path of burning gases.

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Design and principle of operation

What is the difference between the Loginov Potbelly stove and other metal stoves? The point is the L-shaped blower. The ash pan door is replaced with pipes welded perpendicularly. The edge of the horizontal pipe is tightly welded, and the edge vertical pipe has a thread for a plug. There are holes made on the thread - by screwing the plug you can reduce the air flow, thereby regulating the combustion process.

Loginov's original potbelly stove

It is important to make a plug with a slight play, so that expansion of the metal when heated will not cause problems. A screen is welded to the sides and back on the stiffeners to increase efficiency. Without such screens, it is extremely uncomfortable to be near the stove - the temperature is too high and can cause burns. The firebox door is also threaded. A 200mm pipe serves as the firebox opening, and a plug with a handle 220mm in diameter is screwed onto this pipe.

You can see more details about Loginov’s potbelly stove in this video:

Modification

Model N. Pyankova differs in the presence of an additional combustion chamber. Unlike more complex structures slow combustion stoves, the Pyankov potbelly stove is made even faster, the model proposed by Loginov. It is enough to weld steel sheets 140-160 mm long to the back and front walls of the furnace at different distances from the top. The distance between the sheets should be 80mm. The grate is installed 80mm from the bottom. Pyankov moved Loginov’s firebox door to the top of the stove and began using it as a hob.

It will not be difficult for a good master to evaluate all the advantages and disadvantages of the two drawings. If desired, you can make a new model of a potbelly stove using only these two developments, changing the rectangular shape to a round one.

Example homemade design(in this photo there is a modernized Pyankov oven), but there is practically no difference in the manufacturing process.

Scheme and drawing

Loginov's drawing is quite clear and accurate. If you have the necessary materials, recreating the design will not be difficult. Here is the diagram (sorry for the quality):

Scheme of Loginov's potbelly stove

For comparison, it is worth mentioning the Pyankov oven. This is the same rectangular potbelly stove, but supplemented with a grate and an additional combustion chamber. It is impossible to regulate combustion in this model; the author did not use Loginov’s blower.

Diagram of the Pyankov furnace

Dimensions

The dimensions of the potbelly stove are very compact. Dimensions of the combustion chamber without heat shields:

• width 250mm;
• height (without legs) 400mm;
• depth 450mm.

When calculating the final dimensions, you need to add 40-50mm to the depth and width. This is the thickness of the stiffeners with a sheet of metal. The height of the legs is chosen as desired; a metal corner is used. Pyankov in his modification increased the height by 50mm and reduced the width by 50mm. This is clearly visible in the diagram.

Advantages and disadvantages

The Loginov stove has its advantages and disadvantages:

Advantages

1. Increased efficiency. One load of fuel can heat a room for 10-12 hours, which is a very good indicator for a potbelly stove.
2. Ability to regulate combustion intensity. By screwing on the ash plug, it is easy to put out or rekindle the fire, and the ash does not spill out onto the floor.
3. Fire safety. The structure is completely closed, with the exception of small holes in the blower. Embers will not fall out of the ash pan, there are no sparks, the door is screwed tightly.
4. Easy to make. No additional cameras or complex parts, rectangular shape.
5. Availability of fuel. Firewood can be easily found everywhere, unlike a gas cylinder or gasoline.

Flaws:

• Difficult to clean. The absence of an ash pan door makes it difficult to clean the stove from cinders. For these purposes, it needs to be tilted and knocked out through the blower.

How to make a Loginov potbelly stove with your own hands?

Making a Loginov potbelly stove does not require special tools or materials. The master must be able to weld, cut and rivet metal, and strictly adhere to the diagram.

Tools

When working with metal you will need the following tools:

• Grinder for cutting metal.
• Welding machine and accompanying protective equipment.
• Gun for riveting metal.
• Tool for cutting threads of different diameters.
• Drill and drill bit for metal.

Materials

Materials for making a Loginov potbelly stove:

• Sheets of metal with a thickness of at least 3mm, with total area 1.35m2.
• Iron rods 45cm long – 6 pcs.
• 100mm pipe for chimney. The length depends on the height of the room.
• Pipe 80mm and 30mm for blower and outlet.
• 200mm pipe about 10cm long for the firebox door.
• Plug 220mm.
• The metal angle for the legs is about 1.2 meters, depending on the intended height of the structure.
• Rivets 6 pcs.

Step-by-step instruction

User manual

The most an important condition operation is good quality welding Using chalk coating and kerosene, check for fistulas and defects. Be especially careful with the chimney seams. Load firewood into the combustion chamber, light the fire, close the door and regulate the process using the blower. To reduce the intensity of combustion, you need to screw on the blower; to put out the fire, just screw it on completely.

Heat emanating from metal at a temperature higher than that from brick or stone. To adjust the blower, always use a thick potholder, do it carefully and quickly. Clean the oven after it has cooled completely. If there are welding defects, operation is stopped and the defects are corrected. Carbon monoxide can cause death.

According to some reviews, this stove can smoke when the firebox door is opened. This occurs due to decreased cravings. The defect can be eliminated by increasing the diameter of the chimney pipe to 150mm and reducing its length. Slow burning stoves are popular among fishermen and tourists. Replacing a thick sheet of metal with light and thin ones stainless steel pipes chimneys, they successfully use the Loginov scheme for winter fishing and tourism. Welding is rarely used for such furnaces.

Price for finished products and used ones

Each city has its own workshops where potbelly stoves are made. There you can order a product of any design and metal thickness. The Loginov stove has not gone into mass production and it is extremely difficult to buy it ready-made. Industrial production reaches high efficiency increasing combustion chambers, improving convection.

Finished products have good appearance, some models have vintage design, various colors. The price ranges from 3500 rubles to 10500 rubles. Used models are not much cheaper - minimum price 2900 rub. You need to take into account the cost of the chimney, which is not included with the stove.

Conclusion

Loginov's design allows minimizing fuel costs. The model can be modified and improved, and is easy to manufacture. Making a potbelly stove yourself is much cheaper than buying a ready-made one, provided you have basic skills in working with metal. Pyankov’s scheme is no worse than Loginov’s and is a little simpler to manufacture - no threads or blower tubes.

For experienced craftsmen, there is the opportunity to turn a potbelly stove into an electric generator. This requires a Peltier element. He transforms thermal energy into electricity. The integrated heating elements heat up and produce 12 volts DC with a power of 60 watts. This is not enough to fully provide electricity, but in conditions of winter fishing, army training grounds and dacha cooperatives without electrification, it will be very useful.

Loginov's potbelly stove is safer and more efficient in operation. Its compact dimensions allow it to be used in any area, and its low weight allows it to be installed even on very flimsy ceilings and joists. The disadvantage of the design is that it is difficult to clean - not everyone is able to lift and tilt a heavy metal stove. One day of work, and as a result, own stove heating with wide range applications.

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Winter in Russia is more than winter. It's no secret that at this time of year it is uncomfortable to be outside a room with heating, but what to do if there is such a need? For example, you need to visit a garage and spend some time there. And the love of the stronger half of humanity for gatherings with friends in the company of their iron horse is known to everyone.

Of course, gatherings with even a slight “minus” outside rarely bring joy if the garage is not heated around the clock. There is a way out if you manage to install a homemade potbelly stove in the garage.

Features: pros and cons

On to the pros homemade stove made from a barrel usually include:

• fast heating with minimal fuel consumption;
• simplicity and accessibility;
• the ability to make it yourself from a variety of materials, even improvised ones;
• unpretentiousness when choosing fuel (firewood, mining, diesel fuel, coal, peat, etc.);
• Sometimes, for better heating and heat exchange, a kind of “labyrinth” of metal sheets is installed on the stove.

It will also be quite true to say that a stove made from a barrel probably has more disadvantages than advantages:

• large heat losses and, as a result, significant fuel consumption during long-term use;
• if you make a potbelly stove from an ordinary barrel, then you need to be prepared for the fact that it will not last a relatively long time due to the insignificant thickness of the walls - they will quickly burn out;
• poor ability to regulate temperature;
• if the potbelly stove is made horizontally, it will take quite large space V limited space boxing;
• the vertical orientation of the stove will benefit the use of space, but the walls will burn out faster than a horizontally placed potbelly stove;
• due to burning out of the walls, the stove can be a fire hazard and will require more attention when heating;
• such a stove needs a high chimney with a height of more than 4 m, which will have to be cleaned regularly.

Most of these shortcomings can be eliminated by making the body of the potbelly stove from a gas cylinder. It has thick heat-intensive steel walls that are well welded.

Preparing an old cylinder for welding is very important due to the likely presence of explosive gas residues inside, even if the neck is removed.

There are several preparation options: you can simply fill the cylinder with water and leave it for a long time, or add alkaline substances to the water to neutralize the gas. However, this method is considered the most reliable:

• the cylinder in a vertical position must be securely buried in order to cut a hole with a grinder;
• fill it completely with water, wait a few hours;
• mark the cutting line;
• cut with a grinder until a through hole appears - water begins to flow out;
• complete the cut and drain the water - the risk of fire is guaranteed to be eliminated.

Principle of operation

Let's take a closer look at the operation diagram of a homemade potbelly stove:

• Combustion air is supplied through the ash pan to the furnace firebox;
• During the combustion process, heat is released, which heats the bricks and walls of the furnace;
• smoke, soot and combustion products are drawn out through the chimney;
• combustion regulation to obtain the necessary heat transfer is carried out by increasing/decreasing the open gap of the blower door;
• a potbelly stove is heated using various types of both liquid and solid fuel(firewood, mining, diesel fuel, coal, peat).

Potbelly stove under development

A potbelly stove, the fuel for which is not wood, but waste oil, has its own characteristics. It can be either a small stove for a regular garage or a device designed for heating large areas. In any case, all models work on the same principle and have similar designs and operating principles.

• The potbelly stove has 2 parts. Used oil is poured into the lower part, where it is heated and brought to a boil.
• The vapors are drawn through a perforated pipe for oxygen access, where their initial afterburning occurs.
• The vapors are completely oxidized and burned in the upper part connected to the chimney.
• The temperature in the lower container is relatively low; the upper chamber heats up to the maximum, heating the room. Its walls can even glow from the heat. Accordingly, this affects the choice of material for making cameras.

Drawing diagram of a potbelly stove during testing with conventional dimensions and proportions.

Let's consider the advantages of potbelly stoves during testing.

• Unpretentiousness and “independence”. There is no need to constantly add firewood or perform any actions, the main requirement is correct adjustment filler neck gap (10-15 mm).
• Efficient heat dissipation.
• There is no soot from the chimney, the stove does not smoke.
• Relative fire safety, since waste fuel is difficult to ignite, and only oil vapors burn.

Flaws:

• noisiness;
• characteristic odor (this can sometimes be eliminated by installing a water circuit or air heat exchanger with a supercharged fan that directs part of the air from the chimney to another room for heating);
• combustion chamber ( connecting pipe with perforation) and the chimney has to be cleaned quite often;
• the coked layer of burnt oil in the lower chamber is also quite problematic to remove.

When using a potbelly stove with waste fuel, you must adhere to the mandatory rules.

• It is not allowed to use waste oil with gasoline or other flammable impurities.
• Filtration of waste from solid particles is required.
• Water should not be allowed to enter the mining area.
• Strong drafts are not allowed.
• Compliance with everyone fire regulations when installing the stove indoors.
• Reliable ventilation is a must.

• It is strictly forbidden to leave the stove unattended or sleep while the stove is running.
• Do not use water for extinguishing!
• Horizontal sections of the chimney hood are prohibited. The permissible angle of inclination of the chimney is 45°.
• The chimney should have a length of 4 to 7 m.
• It is recommended to pour waste into the furnace to a height of less than? volume of the lower chamber.
• It is necessary to have a powder fire extinguisher and/or sand in the immediate vicinity of such a stove.

DIY making

Drawings and dimensions

The potbelly stove will produce maximum efficiency provided that it complies with the calculations made.

Let's look at the design of the chimney.

• The vertical part (up to 2 m) is covered with fireproof thermal insulation.
• The pipe is inclined or parallel to the floor (2.5-4.5 m), the distance from the ceiling in the absence of heat-resistant protection is 1.5 m, from the floor – 2.2 m;
• The diameter of the chimney must be calculated with great accuracy so that its operating speed is less speed combustion of fuel, and it would not throw out all the heated air along with combustion products outside immediately, but would allow it to heat the walls, which is what main feature this type of stove. The calculated permeability of the pipe should be 2.7 times the volume of the firebox. That is, with a firebox with a volume of 40 liters, the chimney should have a diameter of 106 mm.
• If there are grates in the potbelly stove, the height of the firebox is calculated from the top of the grate.
• Complete combustion of fuel can be ensured by creating high temperature, which can be achieved by using a metal or brick three-sided screen around the potbelly stove. Install it with a gap of about 70 mm from it. Heat reflection also has a fire-fighting function.

• Bedding or a fireproof surface under the stove is strictly necessary, because:
  • thermal radiation from the furnace emanates in all directions, including downwards;
  • the floor can become very hot, which can lead to a fire.

Sheet metal is used as bedding; the area is 350-400 mm larger than the vertical projection of the stove on the floor (preferably 700 mm). You can use sheets made from other fireproof materials with a thickness of more than 1 cm.

Chimneys are installed differently in different rooms.

• Part of the pipe is routed through the wall of the garage; this is the most common type.
• The chimney is completely left inside the garage box and exits through the roof. Thus, the garage is heated better, but the installation process itself is much more labor-intensive.

Required materials and tools

To make your own potbelly stove in the garage, you will need the following materials and tools:

• sheet metal for making an ash pan and a hob if the stove is located horizontally;
• metal for the chimney pipe (preferably with two elbows);
• materials for fixing grates and supports;
• oven doors;

• cast iron discs;
• welding machine;
• sander;
• welding wire/electrodes;

• hammer;
• tape measure/measuring tape;
• chisel;
• pliers;
• drill;
• metal stripping brush;
• chalk pencil.

Let's look at the manufacturing process step by step.

• As already mentioned, the stove can be manufactured in horizontal and vertical versions.
• The dimensions of the stove are selected based on the dimensions of the garage box, taking into account all measures fire safety.
• The walls need to be welded from sheet metal more than 4 mm thick.
• The grate is welded inside the firebox or placed on fastenings welded to the walls of the firebox from the inside (removable version). It can be purchased in retail chains or made with your own hands from a sheet of steel by drilling holes no more than 20 mm in diameter, or from thick wire.
• Weld the bottom.

• Cut a convenient hole for fuel supply and 5-7 cm lower for the ash pan.
• The doors can be made from sheet steel yourself, or you can purchase a ready-made cast iron block.
• The stove is installed in the selected location in the garage.
• At this stage the chimney is attached. The longer its area indoors, the warmer it is in the garage, since it also heats the air around it.
• At the last stage of work, you need to put the potbelly stove on its legs. They are made from profile pieces, joined by welding or screwed to the body. You can also use a metal box without a front wall (used as a woodshed), and the materials for the base can be bricks or forged elements.

Where to place it?

Compliance with fire safety rules when using a potbelly stove in a garage is vitally important. Here we're talking about both about the safety of the car and about preserving the life of the person himself. The location of the stove is one of the important tasks. Most often, the corner of the garage box formed by two walls, which is located opposite the gate, is chosen. Direct contact between the stove and the car is strictly prohibited.

The distance must exceed one and a half meters. Similar conditions must be observed for the distance from flammable substances and objects.

The surface of the walls near the stove must be covered with fire-resistant material. They can be additionally lined with brick. If the garage is wooden, then the distance from the surface of the stove to the nearest wall should exceed 1 m.

If a potbelly stove is used for heating or cooking, it is very important to follow the rules of its operation. Their implementation, in addition to fire safety, will help increase its service life.

• Before the first lighting, the stove must be checked and made sure that all connections and components are tight, and all defects must be corrected immediately to avoid the penetration of combustion products and carbon monoxide into the garage room.
• For certain reasons, the chimney must be vented outside. The part of it located inside the garage space must be sealed.
• The chimney is strictly prohibited from being vented into ventilation system. Even if the stove is installed in the basement, it must have a separate chimney.
• The passages of the wall or ceiling of the smoke exhaust pipe must be insulated with fire-resistant, non-fire-hazardous materials.

• A box of sand and a fire extinguisher must be kept in the garage in accordance with fire safety regulations.
• A potbelly stove is also used as a stove and for boiling water. To do this, install a hob with burners on it (usually it is made of cast iron stove) or a tank for heating water.
• The potbelly stove heats up quickly, but also cools down quickly. This disadvantage can be partially compensated for by a brick screen that accumulates heat and returns it to the room as it cools after the potbelly stove goes out.

Direct contact between the screen and the potbelly stove is prohibited. The gap between them is left at least 10 cm.

• Typically, a brick screen has a significant weight, so it will most likely require its own foundation. Let's consider the stages of its manufacture.
  1. Dig a hole about 50 cm deep.
  2. The bottom of the pit is covered with a layer of sand ( average consumption sand 3-4 buckets), compacted.
  3. The next layer is 10-15 cm of crushed stone, which is also compacted.
  4. The laid layers are leveled, then filled with a layer of cement mortar.
  5. Wait for the cement layer to completely harden. The longer the hardening time, the better (usually the time period is more than a day or longer, this will give additional strength to the foundation).
  6. Then several layers of roofing material are laid.
  7. The screen itself is laid out in half a brick, the initial two rows are made with continuous masonry on roofing felt. In the 3-4th row it is necessary to make ventilation gaps, then again continue laying the brick in a continuous layer.

Correct ways Cleaning a potbelly stove mainly comes down to removing contaminants inside the chimney, which is done relatively rarely. Mostly a brush is used. It is quite possible to make it yourself from a cylinder-shaped brush, tying it to a rope.

It is best to use brushes with plastic or iron wire bristles. The diameter of the brush is selected in such a way that there is no significant resistance when passing through the chimney.

Cleaning is used to increase the passage of smoke flow through the pipe and improve heat transfer. Sequence of the cleaning process:

• plug the combustion hole with a rag;
• make 2-3 careful movements with the brush so as not to break the seal of the chimney (stop if the brush moves freely);

Often homeowners prefer to assemble simple and useful homemade products from scrap and unnecessary materials, instead of buying ready-made ones. And a potbelly stove is one of these useful devices.

The main feature of a potbelly stove is that it heats up as quickly as it cools down. Therefore, the scope of its use is narrowed mainly to those rooms where it is necessary to provide rapid heating, while the appearance of the device is often completely unimportant for the user.

You can make a potbelly stove with your own hands, and, if desired, modernize it to achieve more efficient heat transfer.

Are you also thinking about assembling such a homemade product and don’t know where to start? We will help you complete the task - the article discusses the assembly procedure various options homemade stoves, drawings and diagrams are provided.

Also discussed in detail are ways to improve a homemade potbelly stove, as a result of which the efficiency of the stove will become noticeably higher.

The choice of furnace design depends on what material is used as fuel. Each user himself determines the degree of its availability and economic feasibility.

It is the combustible material, which has different temperatures and combustion patterns, that dictates the principles for creating different modifications of the device.

The shape of a potbelly stove can be different, often depending on the availability of suitable material. This could be an old can, a gas cylinder, a metal container - whatever is at hand. The main thing when choosing it is the thickness of the metal and the shape, which requires a minimum of alterations.

Image gallery

A grate made of grate (it can be welded from reinforcement) is placed at the bottom of the chamber, under which ash will accumulate. You can also organize a hob. It is easier to do this on a horizontally located cylinder by welding corners on it on both sides.

It’s good if the barrel initially has legs. If not, you need to weld them or install the stove on bricks.

A potbelly stove made from a gas cylinder can also be used as a basis for the further construction of a hot water column, as it is also called “Titan”. To do this, a stainless container is installed on top of the stove, through which the chimney pipe passes.

The water in a wood boiler heats up quickly, and little firewood is used - in summer time One bookmark in a small firebox is enough.

A metal container with walls at least 3 mm thick is also suitable for a potbelly stove. The open top of the container is closed with a circle of metal sheet and brewed.

A hole is cut out in the lid or wall for the chimney. Its diameter should be at least 100-150 mm. The top of such a potbelly stove will heat up so much that you can cook food and heat water on it.

We also have more on our website detailed instructions with diagrams and drawings for manufacturing.

Features of a sawdust stove

If there is no shortage of sawdust on the farm, then this type of fuel will fully justify its use. Such a potbelly stove does not require frequent loading - the compacted sawdust inside does not burn, it smolders slowly, releasing thermal energy gradually and providing heat for a long time.

A self-made sawdust stove works on the principle long burning. The slow combustion process saves resources - heat does not immediately fly out into the chimney, heating the atmosphere

The basis of the furnace can be a metal barrel with an open top (if the container is sealed, the top is cut off) or a pipe with a diameter of 300 to 600 mm.

Then a metal circle is cut out of a sheet three or more millimeters thick, which should be smaller than the inner diameter of the barrel. In its middle, a hole with a diameter of 100 mm is cut under a cone for compacting sawdust.

The workpiece is welded to the walls of the barrel. Using this circle, the ash pit is fenced off - in it, with the help of shavings or wood chips, ignition will be carried out. The height of the ash pan should be 100-200 mm.

Below the welded circle, a window is cut out, which will serve as a blower. Curtains are welded to the cut piece of metal, making a door for the same hole.

An exit to the chimney is made in the lid of the container. The lid must fit tightly onto the potbelly stove and be made of a fairly thick sheet, otherwise it will quickly burn out.

In order for sawdust to burn gradually, it is necessary to ensure a limited supply of oxygen to the fuel compartment. To do this, a cone-shaped core is inserted inside the firebox, sawdust is poured around it and compacted. The cone is carefully removed, turning, and the lid is put on the barrel.

The same model can be improved by adding an additional cylinder. In this option, the sawdust will be in the inner chamber, and the space between the two compartments will serve to burn gases and increase the heating area. In this option, the outlet of smoky gases is arranged in the lower part of the stove.

How can you improve your potbelly stove?

An ordinary potbelly stove has a lot of positive qualities, but also has many significant disadvantages. It is unable to accumulate heat and heats the room while the fire is burning. Requires continuous fuel supply, on average every 30-40 minutes.

Besides, a large number of heat flies out through the chimney into the atmosphere, bringing no benefit. That is why work on improving the potbelly stove is ongoing.

The standard design of a potbelly stove has many modernized designs that allow:

• save fuel;
• increase the efficiency of the stove;
• increase heat capacity;
• reduce the frequency of fuel filling.

The most common methods for increasing the efficiency of a potbelly stove are creating a slow burning mode, a gas afterburning system, and installing heat-resistant lining of the internal walls.

You can also improve the quality performance of the stove by increasing the heat transfer area using welded pipes and an installed fan that will drive air flows through them.

The industrial model of such a potbelly stove is called “Buleryan”, but besides it, there are many different designs made by handicraft. We recommend watching detailed master class for homemade production.

You can increase the heat transfer time if you line the stove with brickwork. Such a potbelly stove will heat up more slowly, but will also give off heat longer, maintaining the temperature in the room for some time after the fire has died down.

Are you interested brickwork? We have it on our website detailed guide do it yourself with diagrams and drawings.

Option #1 – stove with increased fuel load

This model is designed to increase efficiency and continuous burning time. The basis is taken as a horizontal rectangular potbelly stove on massive, stable legs and complemented with a cassette made of a blind sealed cylinder. Such design additions significantly increase its efficiency.

A flange is welded to a cassette cylinder about 400 mm high. After installing the cylinder into the burner hole, its edge should fall 5-10 mm below the stove plate. To make it easy to install and remove the cylinder, handles are welded to its body.

The cylinder is filled with firewood in such a way that there is some space between them and when installing it on the stove, they can immediately fall onto the burning coals

How does a potbelly stove work:

1. The lower part of the firewood, falling on the coals of the preparatory ignition, flares up. In this case, the upper part, located in the cassette, will not burn due to lack of oxygen, but will dry under the influence of hot smoke.
2. Under the weight of its own mass and as it burns, the firewood gradually falls into the firebox.
3. The hot gas, which is in the cylinder for some time, gives off heat to it, thereby increasing the heat transfer area in the room. In this case, the cylinder cover can serve as a cooking surface.
4. At the same time, the temperature of the exhaust smoke decreases, which means the heat capacity and efficiency of the potbelly stove increases.

As a result of this modernization, the time interval between laying firewood increases and the efficiency of using the stove increases.

Option #2 – long-burning potbelly stove “Bubafonya”

The low efficiency of a conventional potbelly stove is a fact that has long been known and verified by many users.

One of the methods to increase it is to slow down the combustion process by limiting the flow of air into the combustion chamber. This improvement can be found in such stoves as “Bubafonya” and “Filipina”.

This stove model is used in non-residential premises- workshops, greenhouses, and other outbuildings. To work for 9-12 hours, one stack of small firewood, chips, and sawdust is enough. In this model heating device Do not use coarsely chopped or damp firewood.

A potbelly stove can be created from any metal tank. Most often they use a barrel of fuel and lubricants or an old cylinder.

Manufacturing is carried out in the following sequence:

• A combustion chamber is prepared from an accessible cylindrical container, in the upper part of which a hole is cut for the chimney.
• A circle is cut out of metal (at least 10 mm thick), slightly smaller than the inner diameter of the barrel.
• A hole with a diameter of 100-150 mm is made in the center of the circle (the exact size depends on the diameter of the rod pipe used).
• Ribs up to 50 mm high are welded onto one of the planes of the circle.
• A pipe is welded to the center of the circle. Its length is calculated so that the piston, when lowered, rises above the reservoir lid by approximately 100 mm. If you leave the pipe longer than necessary, draft will arise in it and it will begin to smoke.
• Next, they build a lid that will fit tightly on the barrel and cut a hole in it that fits the piston pipe

You can further increase the efficiency of this model by organizing the supply of air from the street into the firebox. Thus, heated air from the room will not fly out into the chimney.

Option #3 – furnace with secondary combustion “Filipina”

The furnace uses two methods to increase its efficiency, based on the principles of long-term combustion and pyrolysis. To make it, you will need two gas cylinders, which will serve as chambers for primary and secondary combustion.

The sequence of actions for making a potbelly stove is as follows:

1. The cylinders are prepared for use by releasing the remaining gas from them and filling them with water. Without this procedure, it is absolutely impossible to cut them, otherwise the sparks that are formed during the operation of the angle grinder can provoke a gas explosion, a certain amount of which always remains in the cylinder.
2. In the first cylinder, which will serve as a chamber for the firebox and ash pan, remove the tap and cut off the top (it is used to make the door), and cut out a hole for installing a chimney.
3. Opposite the hole for the chimney, a pipe is welded, the other end of which should not rest against the lid of the second chamber, leaving free space for smoke to escape.
4. At the outlet of the pipe from the first cylinder, a metal ring is welded; it will serve as a support for installing the upper cylinder. Holes are drilled in it.
5. A metal ring is also welded to the second cylinder where the top is cut, in which the locations for the holes are marked, focusing on the holes already made in the first ring.
6. Before finally installing the second cylinder, an air supply pipe is inserted into it.
7. Place the upper chamber on the pipe, aligning the holes, wind a heat-resistant rope between the rings, and secure the connection with screws.
8. The chimney exit is made from the bottom of the secondary combustion chamber.

To obtain a stable structure, reliable legs are welded to the lower chamber. Install the door on the awnings. It can be further improved by adding the ability to regulate the air entering the firebox.

In few films about war you won’t see a potbelly stove with blazing wood, next to which soldiers are huddled and conferring about something.

A simple shape in the form of a barrel, a knee placed outside through a window and a couple of logs could quickly and efficiently heat even a large room. Why this design was called a potbelly stove remains in history, but even today this stove enjoys well-deserved popularity. Below we will tell you how to quickly make a potbelly stove with your own hands, show you the most effective models, and also see photos and videos of the most successful stove models.

Advantages and disadvantages of using potbelly stoves

By analogy with any other heating devices, potbelly stoves also have certain pros and cons in their operation.

From positive properties The following can be noted:

• use of an unlimited range of solid fuels - firewood, sawdust, coal, wood chips, briquettes, pellets, peat, etc. In some cases, even recycled motor oil is used as fuel;
• the ability to make a potbelly stove with your own hands (see drawings below) practically from scrap materials;
• compact size of the oven, which allows it to be placed even in a small room;
• there is no need to install a chimney, foundation and platform.

Negative characteristics include:

• the need to protect against combustion objects falling out of the firebox - embers, sparks, etc.;
• strong and rapid heating of the oven walls, which increases the risk of injury to others;
• high fuel consumption - it is rational to use such a stove only for short-term heating.

Types of furnace designs

Structurally, a potbelly stove is a rectangular or oval container equipped with a firebox with a door, an ash pan and an elbow for removing smoke (similar to a chimney).

Preferred material - stainless steel or cast iron. Cast iron accepts any type of fuel, but is fragile - sudden cooling of the potbelly stove body is prohibited.

On an industrial scale, potbelly stoves are divided into the following categories:

• oven with hob;
• pyrolysis;
• equipped with a heat transfer-increasing casing.

The main feature of a potbelly stove is that in most cases it is made in a handicraft way, using metal boxes, cans and other suitable containers. Next, we will tell and show how to make potbelly stoves with your own hands - drawings, photos, videos

Furnaces differ from each other in the following categories:

• manufacturing material - cast iron, steel, brick;
• functionality - with a hob, heaters and gas generators;
• type of fuel - solid and liquid.

Classic oven

A sheet metal stove is traditional option, which fully reveals the characteristics of the potbelly stove.

Manufacturing process

Necessary materials:

• metal sheet 4 mm;
• fittings with a diameter of 10-15 mm for the grate;
• corners;
• pipe (diameter according to the diagram);
• Bulgarian;
• welding.

Video 1 An example of making a beautiful potbelly stove with your own hands

Use a grinder to cut out all the body parts from a sheet of metal according to the drawing.

On the back and side walls, hot weld the corners, on which you will then lay the grate and another sheet (in the drawing), which will hold the bricks.

A properly made grate will help increase the burning time of firewood. If it is not a solid steel sheet, but a stacked grate made of reinforcement (up to 15 cm in diameter), the smoldering fuel itself will suck in the necessary air, making combustion more complete and lasting.

Next, cut out 2 doors (for the firebox and ash pan) and put them on the hinges. On the top part, cut a hole for the pipe, to which you weld a sleeve 200 mm high. After this, you weld or put on a pipe to the sleeve, the bending angle of which is 450.

The technology of the most efficient potbelly stove was presented by V. Loginov. The material used is a metal sheet, grate bars are reinforcement, hot welding is used to connect parts, and pneumatic scissors or a grinder are used for cutting.

To increase heat transfer, it is necessary to ensure a certain resistance coefficient of the chimney.

How to determine the diameter of a chimney pipe

Calculate the volume of the combustion chamber (liter) in relation to the pipe diameter (mm) in the ratio 1:2.7. For example, if the volume of the firebox is for furnace gas, resistance must be created. From thermal engineering calculations, the volume of the combustion chamber in liters should be 2.7 times smaller in digital terms than the pipe diameter in millimeters. For example, if the firebox volume is 70 liters, then the pipe diameter will be 182 mm.

Potbelly stove made from a milk can

The second most popular material for making a potbelly stove after metal sheet is a milk can. This is easily explained, since the airtight case is almost ready, and everything else can be done with your own hands literally within a couple of hours.

Manufacturing process

1. Punch through with a chisel or cut out a crescent-shaped slot under the neck. This future is blowing
2. At the bottom of the can, cut a hole for the pipe, where the sleeve will be inserted and the chimney pipe will be put on.
3. It is better to make the grate in such a potbelly stove serpentine or made of reinforcement, but it is necessary to carefully insert it into the can so that there is no need to cut additional holes.
4. The dimensions of the potbelly stove made from a can are in the drawing. Already finished design should be placed on legs or made of brick.

The longer the chimney, the less heat loss will be.

Potbelly stove from a gas cylinder

An excellent material is a gas cylinder, which also fully ensures the tightness of the structure and its safe use.

Materials and tools:

• waste gas cylinder;
• metal sheet 4 mm;
• pipe (diameter see above);
• fittings for a set of gratings;
• corners;
• combustion door;
• Bulgarian
• welding.

1. To begin, knock off the top rim with the tap and cut out a crescent-shaped hole for the blower on the bottom of the cylinder
2. Weld a pipe to the bottom of the cylinder where the sleeve will be inserted and the chimney pipe will be put on.
3. It is better to make the grate in such a potbelly stove made from fittings; in this case, there will be a natural intake of air and the fuel will burn almost completely.
4. The dimensions of the potbelly stove made from a cylinder are in the photo. The finished structure should be placed on legs or made of brick.

Video 2 An example of making a potbelly stove from a gas cylinder at home

The potbelly stove has survived the most different times and has proven that it is the most reliable and in a simple way heating small rooms. Despite the relative simplicity of the design, during its manufacture it is necessary to observe certain proportions in order to increase the burning time of the filling and, accordingly, the efficiency of the furnace.

Photos of the most effective potbelly stoves according to readers

Photo 11 Bubafonya type stove

Photo 12 Potbelly stove that works

Whether in a private country house or in your own garage or workshop, it is always a good idea to have a mobile or stationary stove-stove. Today there are many different models of these heating devices on sale, but they can be expensive. Therefore, if you have experience working with metal, suitable material And necessary tools, stoves are often made independently.

Which model of wood stove to choose with your own hands is up to the master to decide, since these homemade devices may have the most different kind and be made both from new material and from improvised metal objects.

Craftsmen have learned to adapt metal barrels with walls 2.5-3 mm thick, gas or oxygen cylinders, medium-diameter pipes, metal sheets and even rims from large automobile wheels to make potbelly stoves.

Tools for making a potbelly stove

To work with metal you will need special tools, some of them are available in almost every private home, while others will have to be purchased or rented.

• Angle grinding machine - “grinder” and consumables in the form of cutting discs and grinding wheels.
• A welding machine with a power of 200 A, and also consumables - electrodes Ø 3 and 4 mm. In addition, you will definitely need a special mask and protective suit.
• Metal brush.
• Slag hammer.
• Measuring tools - folding meter, long metal ruler, tape measure, chalk or marker.
• Pliers, hammer, chisel.
• Drill with metal drills of various diameters.

The choice of stove model most often depends on where it is planned to be located, since residential premises require a more aesthetic appearance of the heating device and increased safety. Therefore, for installation in a house, the best option is one made from metal sheets or a piece of medium-diameter pipe.

Any of the existing models will be suitable, but it is better to choose one that will help not only bring warmth into the room, but also warm the water.

To finally make your choice, it is worth considering different options and becoming familiar with the process of their manufacture.

Gas cylinder stove

Installation of a potbelly stove from a cylinder can take place in different ways:

• Using one cylinder with a vertical or horizontal arrangement;
• Using two cylinders that are installed perpendicular to each other.

The second model will provide more heat, since the heating area of ​​the oven is almost twice as large.

The cylinder itself has a neat appearance, you can make a hob on it, and if you give the finished stove a decent appearance, it can even be installed in a residential area.

Materials for production

For the manufacture of the first model will need one cylinder, for the second, respectively, two, but besides this for the manufacture of the oven will need:

• A steel sheet with a thickness of at least 3 mm - the jumper between the firebox and the ash pan will be made from it, as well as hob.
• If you want the stove to look more respectable, then you need to purchase a ready-made cast iron door with a cast pattern for the firebox and ash pan.
• If appearance is not so important, then the door can be made from a piece of metal cut from the cylinder itself or from a steel sheet.
• Chimney pipe with a diameter of 90 — 100 mm.
• Reinforcing rod with a diameter of 12 — 15 mm or steel angle for making a grate and legs. made of cast iron can also be purchased at a specialized store, or the bottom of a horizontally laid cylinder in which holes are drilled can serve as a grate.

Any of the models can be made not only from cylinders big size, but also from small ones - this will depend on the space allocated for the stove.

Preparing the gas cylinder

Before starting work, the cylinder must be prepared, especially if the container is not new, but has already been in use. In this case, a certain concentration of gas may always remain inside the cylinder, and if a spark occurs during its cutting, an explosion is possible. Measures for appropriate preparation of the container cannot be neglected, since do work will be extremely dangerous.

Preparation is carried out in the following sequence:

• First of all, unscrew the valve, which is located on top of the cylinder, and clear the hole in which it is installed. The container is left outside or in a utility room for about a day, filling it to the top with water.
• After this time, the water from the cylinder is drained. It should be taken into account that the liquid will have an unpleasant odor, so it should be drained away from your home.
• A washed cylinder can be used for work, since the last remaining gas should be removed from it along with the water.

Making a vertical stove from a cylinder

• The first step is to mark the prepared cylinder - the location of the firebox and ash pan is indicated on it. For this procedure you will need a marker and a flexible measuring tape - thanks to her a fairly rigid but elastic tape can be measured and drawn location door

• The next step is to carefully cut out the marked parts using a grinder. The cut out fragments are almost always used for further work.

Cutting openings for the firebox doors and ash pan

• These elements are boiled, adding sides, hinges and a handle-latch, and they make excellent doors.
• Next, the internal diameter of the cylinder is measured, and according to this measurement, a ring is rolled up from thick wire, which will become the basis for welding the fittings. Thus, a grate for the firebox is made.
• Then, the level of installation of the grate is outlined. The grate should be located 30 ÷ 50 mm below the edge of the cut opening for the firebox door. The grate thus becomes a separator between the ash pit chamber and the firebox. Reinforcing bars are welded at a distance of 8 ÷ 10 mm from each other.

• Hinges attached to the door are welded to one side of the firebox opening. It is very important to accurately align the installation location so that the doors close and open easily.

• On the opposite side of the hinges, a loop-hook for the bolt, open at the top, is fixed. It should keep the door securely closed while the stove is heating.
• The door on the ash pan is secured in the same way.
• It is recommended to cut off the top part of the cylinder for welding on top of the round metal panel, which will act as a hob.
• The chimney can be discharged either through the top of the cylinder or through the back or side wall of the stove. If you choose the second option, the upper hob will be much larger, since it will be freed from the chimney pipe.

If the cylinder stands vertically, it will take much less space than the horizontal option, but you also need to remember that any stove should be located at a distance of 200 mm from the wall, and the walls themselves must be covered with heat-resistant material.

Efficient potbelly stove made from two gas cylinders

To make such a potbelly stove you will need two cylinders, which, when heated, can heat the room much faster. In addition, if desired, it is quite possible to install a water heating tank in the vertical part of the furnace if you install a hermetically sealed container inside, bring the tap out and cut in pipes for supplying and extracting water.

• The first step is to prepare the cylinder, which will stand horizontally. The upper part is cut off from it, so that a round hole with a diameter of approximately 30 - 35 mm less than the inner diameter of the cylinder is obtained.

• In the bottom part of the future firebox, holes with a diameter of 10 - 12 mm are drilled in several lines, which in this case will serve as a kind of grate.

• A metal box is welded under this “grid” - this will ash pan. Then you need to install a tightly closing door on it to prevent coals and ash from falling out. As an air regulator it is used will not be available in this model.
• Legs made from corners or fittings are welded next to the ash pan.

• On top of the horizontally located cylinder, on the side opposite the firebox door, a round hole is cut out onto which the vertical part of the stove will be installed.

• A door is installed, which would best be made from the head of another cylinder. A hole is cut in the center into which a pipe with a diameter of about 76 mm is welded. This pipe is equipped with a valve, with which you can regulate the flow of air into the firebox, and therefore the intensity of firewood combustion. Door hinges It is recommended to place it on top - under the influence of its gravity, the lid will reliably close the combustion chamber window and minimize air suction.

• The most difficult thing in preparing the upper, vertical part of the potbelly stove is the process of marking and cutting out a certain shape, which is ideal for putting on and welded to the horizontal body.

• In this case, an additional heat exchange chamber is installed in the vertical part of the furnace, i.e. smoke entering this section does not immediately go down the chimney, but lingers in the chamber.

• To do this, metal plates with holes are welded inside the vertical body at a certain distance, which can vary from 250 to 400 mm. The holes should be cut close to the edge of the metal round piece. When installing them, the hole on the first jumper should be located on the opposite side from from version on the second jumper and so on. The best option in this case, there will be the installation of three similar jumpers, located equidistant from each other.
• The vertical unit with the partitions already mounted is installed and welded on top to the horizontally mounted housing. A connection pipe is welded onto the top cylinder.

Video: potbelly stove from two gas cylinders

Potbelly stove from a cylinder installed horizontally

This version of the potbelly stove is made from one cylinder, and the operating technology is in many ways similar to the option described above. Therefore, it is only worth considering the difference between some elements.

• Instead of a vertical assembly, only a pipe for connecting the chimney pipe is welded into the rear upper part of the cylinder.

• A rectangular hole is cut out for the combustion door - it can be adjusted in size to the finished cast iron door. If it is purchased in a store, then you should pay attention to the doors designed for blower holes brick kilns- sometimes they are ideal for a potbelly stove from a cylinder.

• You can make a door and from a balloon cut out rectangular part. The size of the sides will fit well into the resulting hole, but in the middle there will be a hole from the valve. It will need to be welded with a patch cut from a metal sheet.
• In both the previous and this version, a hob can be added. For this, for example, from a steel bar, 5 — 8 mm, a rectangle is bent, which is welded onto the container, creating a small but fairly flat surface.
• Instead of wire, you can use two steel strips, welded on both sides of the cylinder along its entire length.

Potbelly stove from a barrel

A potbelly stove made from a barrel is more voluminous and takes up much more space than a stove made from a cylinder. That is why it is able to heat a room with larger area. Such a stove can also be horizontal or vertical, but both the first and second options are used for heating not only utility and technical premises, but also housing.

To make this potbelly stove, you will need a metal barrel, a steel sheet and a chimney pipe with a diameter of 100-150 mm.

Vertical stove

• The barrel is measured and marked on its surface location the vent and firebox doors, as well as the location of the cut. It should extend below the edge of the firebox by 30 ÷ 50mm.
• Then the barrel is cut into two parts, and each of them is initially worked on separately.
• A round plate is cut out of a steel sheet, equal in diameter to the size of the barrel. It provides a hole for the passage of the chimney pipe.
• A hole is also cut in the top of the barrel so that it can be aligned with the hole on the round piece that will become the hob.
• The chimney pipe is welded into the hole in the barrel, and then from above, through the hole onto the pipe, a hob is threaded and laid, which is welded to the sides of the barrel. The air space created between them, which is the height of the side, will help keep the hob hot for a longer period.
• Next, a round metal part with holes cut in it is also welded to the lower side of the upper part - the grate. Another option is to weld two semicircular brackets under the finished cast iron grate. The photo clearly shows how these elements look and are located.
• When the bottom and top panel of this part of the stove are ready, you can use the previously made markings to cut a hole for the firebox door.
• The cut out part is scalded around with metal strips, hinges and a handle with a vertical latch are attached to the door.
• Next, the hinges for the door and the hook for the latch are welded to the body. This process must be carried out very carefully, accurately calculating the distances for installation, since the door should open and close easily, and the latch should fit freely into the holder arranged with a hook.
• An opening is cut in the lower part of the barrel for the ash pit. The door is prepared and hung - the same as in the case of the combustion chamber.
• After this, both parts are connected in single design weld seam.

Horizontal potbelly stove from a barrel

The process of making a horizontal version of a potbelly stove from a barrel is carried out in almost the same way as from a cylinder.

• In the upper plane, a window is marked and cut out on which a door made from a cut piece of metal will be installed. Connections between the door and the hinges and the hinges and the body are made using rivets.

• The standard pressure release hole in the barrel, 20 mm in diameter, is used as a blower. There is no separate door for the ash pan is provided.
• It is recommended to immediately make a stand to place the future stove. It is made from scraps of pipes or corners, so that the shelves ensure the stability of the barrel laid on them, without play.

• The next stage is the manufacture of a grate from a metal sheet 3-4 mm thick. First, the area is measured and, based on the data obtained, it is cut out. the right size panel in which holes are drilled for air supply. The finished grate is placed on the bottom of the barrel in such a way that at the highest point, in the center, the distance between the grate and inner surface barrels was about 70 mm. The grate is not fixed rigidly - it should be easily removed to clean the stove from accumulated ash.

• For the chimney pipe, a special one is made in the rear upper part connecting node. After marking for the required diameter, a grinder cuts diametrical slots at an angle of 15º from one another - a total of 12 cuts. The resulting “teeth” are bent upward - the chimney pipe, which is then inserted, will be attached to them using rivets.

Video: the simplest horizontal potbelly stove made from a barrel

Potbelly stove made from wheel rims

A potbelly stove can also be made from two disks from big wheels and a piece of pipe large diameter— it must be selected to match the diameter of the prepared disks. The height of the cut may vary depending on the preference of the master and the stability of the structure, but is usually limited to 300 - 450 mm.

There is nothing complicated in the design and manufacturing process of this version of the potbelly stove, but it is more suitable for technical and utility rooms than for residential ones.

• Getting ready individual elements for the future stove - two disks, a piece of pipe, a metal sheet and a pipe for the chimney.
• All three parts are welded together into a single vertical structure. To make it easier to adjust the diameter of the pipe to the discs, it is permissible to cut off the outermost rib from the latter along the circumference, on one side.

• Next, an opening for the firebox is marked on the pipe and cut out with a grinder.
• The cut out part is scalded around the perimeter, a valve and hinges are installed on it, thereby obtaining the necessary door.
• Then, you need to make a hole for the ash pan, otherwise the fire in the stove simply won’t burn. To do this, a window measuring 100-120 mm in width and height is cut out in the lower disk.

• A hole for the chimney is cut from the back of the upper disk and a pipe is welded there.
• It is recommended to make a hob for the upper disk from a steel sheet 4 mm thick — 5 mm. It is tightly welded to the edge of the upper disk, thus becoming an additional heat exchanger.
• The same is done with the bottom of the stove in order to create a full-fledged ash pit and increase the safety of operation of the potbelly stove.

In fact, such a potbelly stove is more like a fire fenced with metal, and is neither economical nor easy to use. However, for garage needs and subject to free starting materials- this is a completely acceptable option.

Video: an example of an effective potbelly stove made from wheel rims

Potbelly stove "Gnome"

One of the most popular of all homemade potbelly stoves is the compact one. It looks neat and can be installed in any room. This potbelly stove is a good size for small country houses, as it does not take up much space and is an indispensable assistant in cooking and heating rooms.

One of the most common models is the “Gnome” potbelly stove.

A similar model of potbelly stove can be equipped with internal partitions - plates, then it will receive the properties of additional heat transfer, or you can make the most ordinary body with a division into a firebox and an ash pan.

The first version of the stove will retain heat in the room for a long time, and this is very important if summer residents live outside the city from early spring to late autumn, when the nights are cold.

In order to make such a potbelly stove, you need to purchase a steel sheet with a thickness of 3 — 4 mm, chimney pipe, corner 40 × 40 or 50 × 50 mm. You can make a lid for the burner yourself or buy it ready-made.

• Relying on drawing, on metal details are drawn on sheets potbelly stoves: panels all walls, a grate and two plates for securing them inside the structure.
• The front panel is cut out rectangular holes for the firebox and blower. Cut pieces of metal are used to make doors. They are scalded with a corner and the latches and hinges are immediately attached to them. Then, the doors are attached to the front panel.
• On the same panel, only on its inner side at a distance of 150 ÷ ​​160 mm from the top, one of the plates is welded, which will regulate the output of heated air. The plates must be 80 ÷ 100 mm shorter than the length of the side walls of the housing.
• After that on back wall, at a distance of 70 — 80 mm from the top, the second plate is welded. Together, these two plates form a zigzag labyrinth for the smoke when the stove burns. Thanks to this, each corner of the potbelly stove body will warm up.
• IN hob two holes are cut out - for the burner and for the chimney.
• Legs made of thick reinforcement or angle are welded to the bottom wall of the body. You can choose the option of a frame from a corner, which includes legs and a base for attaching the bottom and lower ribs of the side panels to it.
• Before welding the side parts to the frame or to the bottom panel, it is necessary to mark and weld corners on them along the entire length of the panel; they must be welded at the same level, since their role is to serve as brackets for laying the grate.
• In the panel prepared for the grate, holes with a diameter of 12 ÷ 15 mm are drilled in a checkerboard pattern, at a distance of 30 ÷ 40 mm from each other. Another option for a grate can be a grate welded from reinforcing bars. The possibility of purchasing a ready-made cast iron grate should not be discounted.
• Installation and welding of all walls of the potbelly stove are carried out. The main thing is to achieve complete tightness of the welds, so sometimes it becomes useful to install from the outside metal corner 30 × 30 mm. This will slightly make the overall structure heavier, but will give it additional strength and reliability.
• The top cover with the chimney pipe and the hob is welded.
• To make the stove look respectable, you need to clean all welding seams and cover its surface with heat-resistant paint.

It makes sense to additionally install a screen on the side and rear surfaces, which will increase the safety of the stove and create a powerful convection flow of hot air, significantly accelerating the heating of the room. The screen panels are mounted on racks so that they are spaced from the stove body at a distance of 30 to 50 mm.

Video: master class on making a potbelly stove from steel sheet

What to consider when installing a potbelly stove

A one made independently will bring warmth and comfort to a house or outbuildings, without causing problems, only if safety rules are followed during its installation.

• The surface on which the stove is installed must be hard and fire-resistant. This could be, for example, brickwork or ceramic tiles. Can also be used asbestos sheet, which The top is covered with a metal sheet.
• Heat-resistant plasterboard or asbestos sheets are installed on the walls around the stove. Wall cladding is also suitable ceramic tiles or brick.
• It is prohibited to place flammable materials and compounds near the stove or near the firebox.
• The chimney must also be insulated from combustible surfaces when passing through a wall or attic.
• It is very important for safety to equip a reliable ventilation system so that carbon monoxide cannot accumulate in the room.
• In order for the stove to work for a long time and efficiently, you need to choose only high-quality material for its manufacture.
• Before installing the potbelly stove in its permanent place, street tests must be carried out, paying attention to Special attention on the quality of welds and the accuracy of fit of all parts.