Such projects are used to increase living space, improve appearance and expanding the basic functionality of the building. At the same time, it is extremely important to study carefully what a high-quality extension to wooden house. Projects should be designed taking into account the complexity of their implementation. To do this, you will have to familiarize yourself with the features construction technologies. With this article, accept correct solution it will be much easier. Go!
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This photo clearly explains the convention of the name. A large extension to a wooden house can significantly improve the original technical and aesthetic characteristics. The main thing is that there are enough sizes for large-scale plans. Of course, we must not forget about the financial and time components of the project.
Something to remember! It is better to complete the construction of such structures in one warm season. Otherwise, there will be additional costs for winter preservation. Accurate planning will help you save money at several stages. In particular, wholesale purchases of the necessary basic and finishing materials will be useful.
To build an extension with your own hands, you need to realistically assess your own strengths. The most complex work operations can be entrusted to specialized specialists. But even in this case, your own knowledge will be useful for carefully monitoring the performers.
For your information! It is better to hire highly qualified professionals. Slave labor was abolished due to lack of efficiency. Involving relatives and other dubious helpers may result in unexpected additional costs of materials, time and money.
In any case, the target task should be correctly formulated in order to accurately create a set of design documentation. The house extension projects discussed below will help you make the right decision. When studying in detail, pay attention to the nuances that are important to you. Remember that these examples can be used in various combinations to successfully meet individual needs.
It is better to place the appropriate layers on the outside. This prevents the dew point from moving towards the room and prevents moisture from penetrating into the walls. In such places it is better to use foamed polymer boards, which do not need to be additionally protected from water.
The following table provides data that will help you make the correct calculation taking into account the temperature conditions in a certain region:
| Wall thickness, cm | Weight 1 sq.m. structures, kg | Material consumption per 1 sq. m. walls | Permissible outside air temperature, °C | Notes | ||
| Brick, pcs. | Masonry mortar, l | Piece of construction mixture, l | ||||
| Clay brick (silicate and ordinary) with a volumetric mass of 1900 kg per 1 cubic meter. | ||||||
| 25 | 480 | 102 | 65 | 25 | -3 | |
| 51 | 950 | 204 | 127 | 25 | -20 | |
| 770 | 1410 | 308 | 193 | 25 | -40 | |
| 42 | 720 | 152 | 85 | 50 | -20 | |
| 55 | 950 | 204 | 117 | 50 | -33 | |
| 68 | 1190 | 256 | 150 | 50 | -40 | |
| Multi-hole brick (effective) with a volumetric mass of 1300 kg per 1 cubic meter. | ||||||
| 25 | 350 | 103 | 50 | 25 | -7 | Solid masonry, internal plaster, external jointing |
| 38 | 520 | 154 | 76 | 25 | -21 | |
| 64 | 860 | 259 | 128 | 25 | -48 | |
| 42 | 530 | 154 | 66 | 50 | -30 | Air gap, external and internal plaster |
| 68 | 870 | 259 | 118 | 50 | -55 | |
Use this information when selecting materials. The final cost of the project depends on many factors. Sometimes it is more profitable to make a large initial investment but reduce operating costs.
Such solutions are used when high level groundwater and on soft soils if significant loads are expected. A rigid connection to the main foundation is not made.
The video below shows how to pour the foundation for an extension to a house:
Similar materials are not difficult to find when choosing another technology.
In this case, the supports of the additional part of the structure perform the main load-bearing functions. This example shows a small angle of inclination of the slopes. This means that in winter time the significant weight of the snow cover will have to be taken into account. The corresponding loads must be taken into account when calculating the truss structure and when choosing materials for the surface.
Important! The above examples can be applied in practice if a rigid connection of the foundations is ensured. Otherwise, the roof of the extension to a wooden house is made independent of the main structure.
| Photo | How to add an extension to a house. Main stages of work with comments | |
 | Project basis – an old house With slate roof. The entrance part consisted of a “dressing room”, which had dubious aesthetic and insufficient insulating characteristics. | |
 | After inspecting the property, a decision was made to build an extension to a wooden house using frame technology. For this lightweight one-story structure, the load capacity of a strip foundation is sufficient. | |
 | In accordance with the plan, they dig a trench and install it from boards. In the upper part they install crossbars(1) to maintain structural integrity after pouring | |
 | Install inside (diameter 8-12 mm). To fasten the rods, you can use wire or special plastic clamps. | |
 | After pouring construction mixture protruding parts (M12) should remain on the surface. They are useful for a rigid connection with the walls of an extension to a wooden house. | |
 | After the mixture has completely hardened, the formwork is carefully removed. Exact time depends on external temperature conditions, percentage and parameters of components. | |
 | Please note that at the stage of preparation for pouring, special pipes are installed for subsequent installation electrical cables, water supply, others utility networks. In this project, holes were made in all foundation walls for space under the wooden floor. | |
 | Not only the contour is concreted, but also separate areas for mounting supports, a fireplace, and other heavy equipment. A similar technology with reinforcement is used. | |
 | Through a layer of roofing felt on strip foundation install support boards. Their reliable fixation is ensured by anchors. Next, the ribs of the transverse joists are mounted. | |
 plywood | The wall frame is installed sequentially. To maintain the vertical position of these elements, temporary supports are used. | |
 | Here the walls are installed on all sides, which creates a closed contour of a full-fledged living space. | |
 | At the next stage it is installed truss structure. The photo shows that the author delayed the implementation of the project, so the installation had to be postponed to winter period. IN in this case we're talking about only about unfavorable conditions for performing work operations. "Wet" technological processes were completed on time, during the warm season. | , a layer of waterproofing. Mineral wool mats are inserted into wall cells and covered with film. Outside secured vinyl siding. Inside there is a lining. Installation of window and door blocks. Finish decorative finishing performed at their own discretion.
Here we talk about how to make an extension to your house using frame structure. When using other technologies, appropriate instructions must be used. Don't forget to enter necessary changes with increasing loads on the foundation.
For better orientation in this segment of the service market, extensions to a wooden house with prices and general characteristics are given below:
| Name | Width x Depth, cm | Main material | price, rub. | Notes |
| 600x600 | Beam, 150x50 mm | 250000- 285000 | The kit includes installation of a foundation made of blocks and treatment with an antiseptic. | |
| Terrace | 600x300 | Beam, 150x50 mm, lining | 140000-175000 | You have to pay separately for windows, doors, and roof installation. |
| Two-story frame extension | 600x600 | Timber 100x50 and 150x50, lining, blockhouse. | 580000-620000 | Replacement of window and door units, filing of the external part of the roof, up to the standards of the living space, are paid separately. |
If you are offered to build an extension to your house inexpensively, check the list of materials and work carefully. To check, use your own list of mandatory activities, which can be compiled based on the materials in this article. Check the cost of delivery, installation, finishing, garbage removal. This approach will eliminate any unpleasant surprises. You need to study the text of the contract in advance. If you encounter any difficulties, consult with an experienced lawyer.
This photo of a house extension demonstrates the benefits of glazing. Regardless of the weather, you can admire the surrounding space in comfortable conditions 
A thorough overall analysis of the situation will help you make the right decision. Eliminate errors based on the incorrect statement “Money is everything!” The real benefits come to the person who makes his “little gray cells” work.
Even if there are no problems with financing, topical knowledge will be useful. They will help:
The information from this article will be useful for performing individual operations or the entire project on your own. It is impossible to foresee all the problems encountered in practice within the framework of one publication. Ask additional questions in the comments. Communicate with like-minded people, experienced craftsmen and authors of implemented ideas. This will simplify the construction of a high-quality extension to a wooden house.
Today we have not an ordinary homemade project, but a very complex project: we will tell you how, with the help of straight hands, you can make an extension to your house yourself!
First of all, construction begins with a floor plan. Having calculated the required area, I marked the ground measuring 3 m by 5 m and dug a trench for a strip foundation 50 cm deep and 40 cm wide. Then I laid a bunch of reinforcing rods and welded brackets to the rods. Further in the article there will be a description and photographs of why I made these staples. I don’t even want to remember the process of manually mixing concrete with a shovel and pouring it)) I’ll just say one thing: it would be better if I called a mixer with ready-made concrete and poured it))). Having placed the formwork from the boards, I brought the foundation 20 cm above ground level and leveled it. M-400 grade cement was mixed with sand screenings in a ratio of 1 to 3. The strength result was impressive. 
After the concrete had hardened, I began pouring the concrete podium for installation gas boiler measuring 1m by 1m, laying it in two places with a mesh and placing the formwork. 
Having filled the brackets protruding from the foundation with concrete, I received cushions for laying floor beams (joists) on them. I needed the staples to avoid the pillows from sinking into the ground and, as a result, the floors from being skewed. I placed them in accordance with the recommendations for floor installation. That is, at a certain distance from each other and strictly according to level. 
At this point the foundation work was completed. Then I started building the walls. First of all, I waterproofed the wall material from the foundation by spreading roofing felt over the entire area. After all, concrete conducts moisture very well, and if moisture insulation is not made, then mold may appear on the walls, and the walls themselves may crack. 
My next step was marking the wall itself. The distances of the sides from the wall to the opposite wall did not differ and the diagonals of the corners were the same. Having outlined the corners, I began laying foam blocks measuring 20x40x60 cm. 
The plans included finishing the exterior walls with siding, so I used a beacon strip and a corner from the siding to position the block in such a way that after finishing, the siding of the extension would not “dance” from the siding of the house. To bind the blocks together, a mixture of cement and sand was used in a ratio of 1 to 3. Special mixtures and glue are also sold. Before laying on the mortar, the blocks were wetted with water. This greatly simplifies the laying process. The blocks were pressed into place using a rubber hammer. 
Any masonry is built from the corners, so I was no exception and followed the recommendations exactly, adjusted for doorways. To obtain blocks of shorter length, an old hacksaw was used) She did her job perfectly. But there are special saws available for sale. 
To connect the walls with the main house, I made T-shaped brackets from reinforcement and, having drilled through the wall, drove them in with the expectation that they would fit into the seam between the blocks. 
Erected walls taking into account window and doorways using building level one and a half meters long and plumb. Those. the blocks were laid strictly vertically and horizontally. This is especially important for door and window openings. The thickness of the seam can be used to adjust the height of the blocks relative to each other. 
When the height of the walls reached the required level, U-shaped channels were made from a metal corner measuring 5 cm by 10 cm for laying blocks above the door and window openings. The length of each was the sum of the length of the opening plus 40 or 60 cm for laying on the wall. To do this, put the corners on the block with the long side facing each other and welded them together using welding machine and reinforcement to obtain a gap between them. The gap is needed for screwing self-tapping screws into blocks during the installation of doors and windows. 
Next, I simply placed the channels on the blocks and screwed them with self-tapping screws for complete fixation. It would be possible to turn them over differently and put the blocks on top, but I put a board in them from below for fastening window frames and doors. 
Having laid the foam blocks on top of the channels, I sawed a 100x150 cm beam and laid it on top. I screwed it to the foam blocks with 200 mm self-tapping screws and fastened the beams together with reinforced corners. It is necessary for ceiling beams and rafter system. 
Screwing a 50x75 mm block to the wall of the house. I received support for the ceiling beams. Important!!! For each roof, the thickness of the beams and rafters for the roof, as well as the distance between them, is calculated individually. Beams 50x75 mm. screwed it to the beam with corners. 
Since the height of the extension was the same as the level of the house, after installing the beams I had to remove part of the slate above the house to obtain a roof slope over the extension. After this, the rafters were assembled. To fasten the rafters, 250 mm nails were used. 
I laid a sheathing of boards measuring 25 mm by 150 mm on the rafters, laid a thermal vapor barrier on the rafters and began laying the metal tiles. 
The metal tiles were purchased almost from the factory and had the length I needed. It didn’t even have to be cut or adjusted to length. Having laid out the sheets on the roof and slipped them under old slate, I aligned them relative to each other and the walls. After fastening, I cut off the excess parts of the sheathing. 
I laid the logs on the pillows and laid the floors from 40 mm thick boards. 
Next, the doors were installed and
If your home plan does not include an additional room, garage or other space that you need, you need a frame extension. The easiest way is to make an extension to a wooden house. You don’t have to hire specialists, because if you have at least some construction experience, you can do all the work yourself.
Extensions are necessary when, while planning your home, you overlooked the need for any premises, or you did not have enough finances to build additional rooms, a garage or a bathhouse. When you need an extension:
Once you have decided what exactly you will build, you must determine the following points:
As the name implies, the basis of this structure is the frame. However, even before installing the frame, you may need a foundation. It can be a lightweight, columnar or strip foundation. Considering the moment of some shrinkage, it is better not to make fastenings with the foundation of the house already installed. Most often, a strip foundation is chosen. Its essence is simple: a trench is dug in which the formwork is installed. Poured concrete mortar, consisting of 1 part cement, 3 parts sand and 5 parts crushed granite. After the foundation hardens, the formwork is removed.
If construction takes place on unstable (for example, clay or loose) soils, it is necessary to allow some time for the foundation to settle.
The second stage of construction of the extension to frame house– installation of the frame. Its basis is wooden beams treated with protection. The wood must be treated with bioprotection against insects and fire protection, which prevents the wooden structure from burning.
Most likely, you will use 15 cm thick material for insulation. These are average values for our region. Based on this, you will need lumber from the 150 line. The pitch of the frame posts will be 59 cm, where the sheets will fit perfectly thermal insulation material 60 cm.
Insulation of a frame extension to a wooden house can be done different ways. The most commonly used insulation materials are:
The insulation of an extension is generally similar to the insulation of any frame house, but it also has its own characteristics. Since in places where new frame walls are attached to existing walls, problems often arise. hard to reach places for insulation. As a result, cold paths appear there, nullifying all work on the general heating of the frame extension. To insulate such joints, you can use:
Jute is an excellent insulation material that needs to be caulked in the corners.
Be careful: if there is felt in the jute, moths may develop over time and eat this material. Choose jute that contains only plant materials - hemp or flax fibers.
Before laying jute, study the technology and be sure to use personal protection, at least closed clothing and gloves.
Liquid insulation is good because it is extremely easy to apply with a spray can into the most inaccessible places. The synthetic composition does not attract insects, its service life is several decades. Liquid insulation is attached to almost any surface and hardens very quickly.
Important: liquid insulation materials do not like ultraviolet radiation, under the influence of which they can change their structure and color. Do not work with this material in direct sunlight.
If you are insulating with mineral wool, it is better to overlap it. This way we will avoid cracks that allow cold to pass through. The insulation for a frame extension must be well fixed; for this, staples or glue are used.
If you decide to insulate a frame extension using foam sheets, then they are placed close to each other, fixed, and the joints are foamed. It is better not to use foam sheets for internal insulation, since the smell of construction chemicals may be present in the house for some time.
With the addition of a bathhouse, everything is much more complicated than with an ordinary extension. The reason for this is the need to supply all communications. And if, as a rule, there are no difficulties with the light, then difficulties may arise with the drainage system and the supply of water to the bathhouse.
What to pay attention to:
Otherwise, the extension bathhouse differs little from an ordinary bathhouse, about the construction of which you can read.
There are two ways to install the roof of a frame extension with your own hands. The first way is to establish a new building under common roof at home, and the second is the construction of a separate small roof (usually pitched).
You can use any roofing material, but by far the most common is regular 8-wave slate. Its length is 175 cm and it is laid with an overlap. Calculate quantity roofing material you can, knowing the area of the future roof and the size of the overlap (it should be at least 5 cm, and better - 10).
To protect the area where the new roof meets the house, a galvanized iron flashing should be installed. The iron sheet is bent at an angle that depends on the angle of the roof. The galvanized iron sheet should not be less than 30 cm in width.
One part of such an apron must be attached under the roof overhang, and the second must be attached directly to the slate of the extension to the house.
Important: Use only 100-120 mm slate nails, the ends of which are not bent, otherwise the slate will crack from temperature changes. We leave them as is or cut them with a grinder.
In addition to slate, you can use other roofing materials.
After the roof is done, it's time to think in the field. We can also make it ourselves. In short, the construction of the floor is done in several stages:
The subfloor is arranged like this. A cranial block (5X5 cm or slightly less) is attached to the sides of the genital joists. Placed on a block edged boards, the thickness of which should be 2-2.5 cm. The following layers: glassine, insulation, glassine again. The subfloor is a supporting frame for the finished floor, and also creates an air cushion for even greater insulation. After this, we begin laying the finished floor.
The finished floor can be of the following types:
If you decide to go with wood, use a milled board. Very convenient are those that are connected by tenons in grooves. Dimensions can be as follows: 28-44x98-145mm. On the back side they have vents that provide ventilation and air circulation. The size of the vent is about 20 mm.
You can also use for a wooden floor: tongue-and-groove boards, which are sold with tongue-and-groove slats and tenons of various shapes (straight, segmented and trapezoidal).
Important: if you use a board to create a floor, the installation is carried out taking into account the annual rings on the wood. They must look in different directions!
After the finished floor, you can do the finishing.
Concrete floors are easier to make. After a layer of insulation and insulation, concrete screed. Finishing can be placed on top of the screed. You can make a screed with your own hands if you know the technology. However, the concrete floor has one drawback - it is cold. Therefore, it is worth thinking about a “warm floors” system in the extension if it will be a living space.
Ready-made tubes fixed to grid cells - a good move
Warm floors are done like this:
Except water warm home, you can make an electric one, which is even easier.
When the floor is ready, we install doors and windows. They are attached using self-tapping screws, spacers, nails and wedges. Installation is done by level.
You can read about wiring electricity to a new room. Wiring can be carried out both from outside the house, there and through common wall with an extension.
The walls of the extension must be insulated not only outside, but also inside. For this, a superdiffusion membrane, foil materials and insulation are used.
The superdiffusion membrane is a modern insulating “breathing” product. Sometimes, in order to save money, plastic film is used instead, but this material collects moisture, as a result of which mold spreads along the walls of the house.
Foil materials are applied to the wall with an overlapping aluminum surface and secured with conventional slats.
When choosing insulation, it is best to choose mineral wool or ecowool. They are functional, inexpensive and durable.
A layer of insulation covers a vapor barrier, which is covered with sheets of OSB, chipboard, plywood, lining, DSP, etc.
Next comes the interior finishing of the room. For an extension you can use not wooden beam, but also a metal profile. Exterior finishing may be different - you can select options and watch pictures and videos.
One of the advantages of living in the private sector is the opportunity self-construction according to your own design - you can build a house of any size (of course, within the available area land plot) and then, if necessary, increase its size. If the strength of the foundation allows, the house can be increased in height or, conversely, increased in length or width - so to speak, make an extension to it, which will be discussed in this article. Together with the site, we will look at the materials and technologies that will allow us to independently solve the question of how to make an extension to the house? And we’ll start by studying materials, where we’ll figure out which materials are best used and under what circumstances.
How to make an extension to a house with your own hands photo
In general, there is one iron rule that is better not to break. It sounds like this: what the house is built from is what you need to make an extension to it from. At least that's how it used to be, when choice building materials and technology was limited to brick, other blocks and clay. Today, during advanced technological progress, things are a little different - there are technologies that make it possible to violate this rule, and rudely. Nowadays you can easily attach a brick building to a wooden house, cover it with the same material and get a solid-looking structure. In general, it is not at all necessary to become attached to the old building in terms of material.
Now, in more detail about the most popular materials, with which you can quite simply solve the question of how to make an extension to the house with your own hands?
How to make an extension to a house photo
In addition to the options described above, you can consider the technology of building an extension using the monolithic concreting method. Moreover, real heavy concrete for these purposes it is not necessary to use - the best option In such a case, the so-called cinder concrete may turn out to be. Slag houses are very warm in winter and cool in summer - they are durable and can last for a very long time.
The main problem in making the foundation of an extension is connecting the new and old foundations. If it is done incorrectly or not done at all, then no matter how you join the walls of two separate buildings, a crack will still appear at the place where they join. Moreover, end-to-end, with all the ensuing consequences - heat loss, condensation formation and, as a consequence, the appearance of fungus and mold in this place. In general, it’s not very pleasant. That is why Special attention it is necessary to pay attention to the following points.
In principle, these three nuances will be quite enough to reliably connect two foundations together. Alternatively, if, of course, you can get to the bottom of the foundation of the existing house, the extensions can be added a little under it.
Dock to a brick or any other block house frame structure not a problem at all - vertical beam wooden frame or the profile of the metal frame of the building is simply attached to the wall of the building using anchors and that’s it! There are practically no nuances here - except perhaps maintaining the vertical level of this beam and sealing the joint. The last operation is performed either using polyurethane foam, or by means of the so-called PSUL tape (pre-compressed sealing tape).
How to make an extension to brick house photo
Another thing is joining a brick or block building with a similar house. Here things are somewhat more complicated, and you cannot do without special embedded parts or ligaments. Provide reliable connection walls without ligating the blocks is possible only by driving iron embedded parts every 4-5 rows of blocks. Holes are drilled in the wall of the existing building (two, one on each side of the block at a distance of 3 cm from the edge) - reinforcement is driven into them, which should protrude from the wall of the house by at least 30 cm. When it fits new block, the cement will reliably connect the two walls into a single whole product. As an option, again, you can use a hammer drill to make potholes, which, when paired with reinforcement, will provide a reliable connection between the two block walls together.
How to make an extension to a wooden house photo
And in conclusion to the topic of how to make an extension to a house, a few words about connecting walls with a block or brick extension. This combination of buildings is also common, and it would be useful to know how they are connected. In fact, you will have to make a metal girth for the blocks - it is attached to the wall wooden house using powerful self-tapping screws and represents some semblance of a channel, into which a block or Brick wall. By and large, this is the same option that is used to join wooden extension to a brick house, only exactly the opposite.
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A private house Over time, it needs expansion - there is a need to expand the kitchen, add a veranda or furnish additional room. Therefore, the owner of the house has a question - how to make an extension to the house with his own hands? Below are the stages of construction using frame technology.
A frame extension to a house has important advantages:
Diagrams and drawings of the extension project are understandable to any novice builder. The technology is similar to assembling a construction set, but the end result is a comfortable and cozy additional room.
Construction of an extension to the house begins with preparatory activities. Carefully inspect the construction site, remove all debris and vegetation from it, mark the area and stock up on the following materials and tools:
Be sure to provide a drainage system under the extension. To do this, compact the soil under the veranda and make a slope in this place to allow water to drain. Below is step-by-step instruction construction of an extension.
1. Installation of supports. Nail it to the wall of the house wooden board at least 5 cm wide, which will become a support. Along the edges of the marked area for construction, install wooden structures- “cast-offs.” They need to be installed a little further than the marked area. Stretch a strong rope over them. Make sure the dimensions of the markings are correct so that everything is at right angles.
2. Dig a trench along the width of the foundation, one meter deep. Prepare a cement mixture of sand, gravel and cement with the addition of water. Do wooden formwork. Start installing support pillars, make the distance between the pillars no more than 1.5 m. Place a cushion of gravel about 10 cm thick at the bottom of the trench. Cut the pipes in advance and install them vertically in the hole, securing them with boards. Next, fill the gaps between the support posts and the walls of the trench with the prepared solution. To ensure that the vertical position of the pipe in the pit is not disturbed, secure the supports with spacers and wait three days for the solution to harden. After it hardens, the formwork can be removed.
3. Creating a floor. At the next stage of creating an extension to a wooden house with your own hands, take boards for the joists. Two boards are mounted to the supports with metal fastening corners at the end of the extension - place the rest between them. When installing joists, do not forget to check their horizontal position with a level. Transverse logs are mounted using 120 mm nails and grooves to the longitudinal part of the extension foundation.
4. Installation of the base for the walls and roof. The work begins with screwing the beams to the base of the floor using dowels and a hammer drill. The side beams are nailed to the walls. Videos and photos of this work can be found in our article. The stability of the structure is ensured by diagonal beams laid at the outer corners. Don't forget to mark the door and window openings. The entire structure is reinforced with transverse insert lintels. From the outside, the base of the extension is covered with a block house. It is advisable to lay a layer of glassine on the sheathing boards before covering; it will protect the building from moisture.
5. Arrangement of the roof. After installing windows and doors, the roof is covered with metal tiles. Cover the area where the roof adjoins the building with a galvanized iron apron.
6. Interior work. A do-it-yourself extension to the house will soon be built, there are still interior work. The walls and ceiling are covered with natural wooden clapboard. Before this, they can be insulated with penofol. To create a floor, you first need to make a rough floor. A rough block is laid on the sides of the floor joists, and edged boards are laid on it. Insulation in the form of mineral wool is placed on them, and then proceed with the installation of the finished floor.
We hope that our instructions helped you learn how to build an extension to your house. If you carefully study the sequence of work and properly prepare building materials and tools, as well as be patient, you can easily make a beautiful veranda yourself.
