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» Extension to a cinder block house. Do-it-yourself extension to a house made of foam blocks. Attach a kitchen from cinder blocks to an old wooden house.

Extension to a cinder block house. Do-it-yourself extension to a house made of foam blocks. Attach a kitchen from cinder blocks to an old wooden house.

The most good option increasing the area and size of a private house is an extension to the dwelling. Most often it is made from foam blocks. Foam concrete has excellent fire resistance, sound insulation and thermal protection.

If you use porous blocks, you will get a fairly light structure that will not overload the foundation. In addition, this building will be durable and compatible with main buildings built from almost any materials.

Once the foundation is ready, you can proceed to laying the walls. When the foundation structure has completely hardened, the builders should treat with special waterproofing mastic. Next, all this is insulated and bitumen is poured.

New extension to wooden house It is not difficult to build from foam concrete or expanded clay blocks, in this case you do not need to have any serious skills - building an extension to a house from foam blocks is done in the same way as a regular building from cinder blocks or gas blocks.

You need to lay a layer of roofing felt on top of the foundation and lay out the first row of blocks. They are placed on a regular sand-cement type mortar, starting from the corner. Subsequently, the blocks are mounted on glue, which is specially designed for such purposes (either winter or summer type is taken).

Subsequently, the upper plane of the finished row is moistened with water, and the mixed adhesive composition is applied to the side and bottom parts of the foam concrete that is being mounted.

It is worth remembering that the thickness of the seam should not exceed three millimeters, thereby significantly reducing the risk of further possible occurrence of so-called cold bridges.

If you decide to use a rigid connection of individual parts of the building, then it is better to do this using a rod with a diameter of ten to fifteen mm (standard length 300 mm) or special metal brackets, which are made from reinforcement.

The rods need to be driven into the wall approximately to the middle. The rest of them between the blocks lies in the seam. If an extension made from foam blocks to your wooden house or from expanded clay blocks or aerated concrete needs to be more rigid, it can be protected from deformation.

For these purposes, reinforcing belts are laid in the corners and every four to five rows in order to increase strength. Using a circular saw, grooves five centimeters deep and three by three cm in size are cut in the stacked blocks, after which the middle is removed.

Pre-welded reinforcement is placed and fixed into the created grooves, and glue is poured. After the walls were laid out, you need to start installing jumpers. They are installed on foam blocks if the opening is no more than 1.75 meters wide.

If you have a size larger than this indicator, then for the purpose of strengthening you need to use sand-lime brick. Modern construction means that most often lintels are made in two main ways:

  1. With in-place formwork - using U-shaped blocks.
  2. With removable formwork made from special bars - sawn foam blocks are laid out from the inside, reinforcement is installed, and then the blocks are wetted and the concrete is tamped down.

The last stage is the ceiling, or rather, its construction. An extension made of ordinary blocks or expanded clay blocks is covered using hollow or gas concrete slabs. Today there is great demand in construction industry pine timber.

Concerning wooden beams, then they must be planed, dry and impregnated with a special antiseptic substance. The lining is made of OSB, some kind of boards or plywood.

2 Extension to a wooden house and the difficulties of its connection

Many people have the false opinion that a wooden house can only be attached or wooden type kitchen or veranda. If in the future joint cladding is carried out using siding, then the main building can be successfully supplemented with a light and aesthetically beautiful foam concrete structure.

To ensure that the connection is correct from a technical point of view and unnoticeable, the extension must be carried out taking into account such rules.

The condition of the entire house should be analyzed in detail - first the walls are inspected, and bad damaged logs are replaced. This is done to avoid uneven shrinkage and possible separation of parts of the building from each other.

It is also worth finding out the features on the foundation, dimensional characteristics and the depth of its laying. To prevent gaps between the walls on the foundation of the house and the created extension, and also to prevent them from deforming each other, they must be joined together.

For this purpose, a special ditch is undermined in the designated place under the dwelling, and strong steel reinforcement is driven into the old foundation, the continuation of which must be mounted into the foundation of the extension.

2.1 Operating technology

Based on the size of the extensions, a trench is dug to a depth of at least half a meter, a sand cushion is made, which must be compacted well. Next, the formwork is installed.

A strong reinforcing belt is laid along the entire perimeter of the created tape, which is filled with concrete mortar and carefully compacted at the same time. This composition hardens for approximately three days, after which the formwork is removed.

It is best to start construction after complete shrinkage of the entire base, that is, after one or two years. This will make it possible to minimize possible subsequent subsidence.

Over time, some private buildings require expansion various reasons. For example, an increase in the number of occupants, installation of a sewer system in the house, or the need to close front door from direct exposure to cold. Therefore, there is a need for an additional room, expanding the kitchen, creating a room for a bathroom, or simply building a veranda.

A do-it-yourself extension to the house can be made of wood, brick or combined version, which includes several building materials.

Premises requirements

To avoid having to make additional changes to the attached room, it is better to immediately think through all the nuances of the extension, since each of them requires a special approach.

Additional room

If you need to add another living room to the house, you will have to try, since this work is almost equivalent to building small house. The floors, walls and ceiling of the building must be well insulated, otherwise the heating installed in it will not be effective - this is one of the main conditions for a living space. Second important condition for normal living, this means the absence of dampness in the room, which means reliable waterproofing is needed.

Kitchen or bathroom

When constructing these premises, before installing the foundation, they bring engineering Communication- in particular - sewer pipes. You may have to install separate plumbing.

In addition, it is also worth paying attention to the insulation of all elements of the structure, and think about reliable waterproofing of the floor.

Veranda

A veranda is a lightweight structure that mainly serves to protect the main entrance to the house from wind and rain or is used for summer holiday. It may be closed, have a door and one or more windows, and May be and completely open, that is, it consists of a flooring, low walls and a roof raised on pillars.

This structure does not require special insulation, but it will still be necessary to waterproof the foundation.

Construction of the foundation for the extension

The foundation for the extension can be strip, made of brick or stone blocks, or columnar. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. To settle on one of them, you need to find out how each structure works and choose the one that is more suitable for a particular extension.

Information about building the foundation

Strip foundation

So, the strip foundation is arranged in the following sequence:

  • First you need to mark and trace the place where the extension will be installed. This is done using a rope, which is stretched on the ground and secured with pegs.

  • Next, following the markings, a trench is dug to the same depth as the foundation of the entire house. Before pouring concrete, it would be a good idea to secure the reinforcement that connects the foundations of the main building and the extension.
  • The width of the trench should be 100-150 mm greater than the planned wall thickness.
  • After the trench has been dug, further preparation begins. First, the bottom is filled with a sand cushion 100-120 mm thick. It must be compacted thoroughly.
  • The next layer is filled with crushed stone or broken brick, which is also compacted using a manual tamper.
  • Next, waterproofing is placed in the trench along the entire perimeter, which should extend to the ground surface by 40-50 cm, since it should cover not only the inside of the foundation, but also the formwork for its above-ground part.
  • A welded reinforcement structure is installed on the waterproofing film, which should follow the shape of the foundation, and over its entire height.
  • Then the reinforcement is poured with a rough concrete mortar of cement and gravel to ⅓ of the height of the trench, and after this layer hardens, the next one is poured to one-half of the remaining height.

Installation of formwork for strip foundations
  • After filling this layer, you can work on the device wooden formwork to form the above-ground part of the foundation - the plinth. Waterproofing film left inside the formwork, straightened along its walls and secured on top of them so that it does not slide into the concrete.
  • Concrete is poured into the prepared formwork to the top. Then the solution is pierced in several places with a shovel so that there are no air cavities left inside it. You can lightly tap the formwork - such vibration will help the concrete to compact as much as possible.

  • Having completed pouring the foundation, the concrete is leveled to the required level and left to dry, spraying it with water daily to strengthen it.
  • After the concrete has completely hardened, the formwork is removed and the foundation is waterproofed from the outside.
  • Before starting the construction of walls, it is recommended to additionally cover the foundation with waterproofing compounds or roll materials. For this process use liquid rubber, tar, bitumen mastic and roofing felt.

  • The space inside the strip foundation can also be equipped in different ways - concrete screed or a flooring of floor beams and joists with a wooden floor installed on them.

Video - construction of an extension to a house on a strip foundation

Columnar foundation

In addition to a strip foundation, a columnar foundation can be constructed, which is built from brick or concrete, or a combination of these materials. This option is mainly used for the construction of verandas or additional living rooms, since communications associated with water supply or drainage in an uninsulated or even open underground will require additional thermal insulation.


A columnar foundation is most often installed if it is planned to install a boardwalk.

The work is carried out in several stages:

  • The first step is marking the area chosen for the extension. The pillars should be one and a half meters apart from each other.

  • Excavations are dug for each pillar separately. Their depth should be 500-600 mm, with a square side of 500 × 500 mm. Towards the top, the pits should widen slightly - about 100 mm on each side.

Foundation pillar installation diagram
  • Next, the bottom is strengthened in the same way as when installing a strip foundation, using sand and crushed stone, and waterproofing is laid.
  • If the support pillars will be built from brick, it is recommended to lay a layer of coarse cement mortar on the bottom. Only after waiting for it to harden, do brickwork.
  • If the pillars are concrete, a reinforcement structure and formwork are installed at the bottom of the pits to the height of the future pillar. The waterproofing film is placed inside the formwork and secured on top of it;
  • Concrete is poured into the formwork in layers. Each layer must set well before the next one is poured;
  • The top of the column is well leveled and sprinkled with water daily until it hardens completely;
  • After the pillars are ready, the formwork is removed from them and they waterproofed roofing material, which is glued onto heated bitumen mastic.
  • The gap remaining between the soil and the pillars is backfilled, compacting every 100-150 mm of backfilled soil mixed with crushed stone.
  • Several layers of roofing material are laid on each of the pillars - it is necessary for waterproofing the wooden blocks that will be laid on top of the pillars.

Installation of the base floor of the extension

If a strip foundation is chosen, both wooden and concrete floors can be installed on it. A columnar foundation without lintels requires the installation of a wooden floor.

Concrete floor

To make a reliable and warm floor screed inside a strip foundation, you need do work step by step, adhering to a certain technology.

  • To begin with, excess soil is selected from inside the finished strip foundation. It is first loosened and then removed to a depth of approximately 250-350 mm.
  • A ten-centimeter sand cushion is poured and compacted onto the bottom of the resulting pit. Crushed stone can be laid on top of it, but to insulate the screed, instead of crushed stone, expanded clay is used, poured in a layer of 15-20 cm.

  • Expanded clay is leveled, and a reinforcing grid is laid on it. After its installation, a system of beacons is installed on top at the selected horizontal level. Some rooms, such as a bathroom or open terrace, may also require a certain slope of the surface for the unhindered flow of water that falls on the floor to the drainage system.
  • Next, lay out on the prepared surface cement mortar and is leveled using the rule. After a day, it can be covered with plastic film - then the concrete will mature more evenly, which will give it additional strength.

When the walls of the extension are erected, any decorative coating or wooden floor.

Floor on wooden beams

  • Floor beams are wooden blocks quite thick, about 150 × 100 mm in cross section. You cannot skimp on them, since the overall strength of the floor will depend on their reliability.

  • Beams are laid on pillars or strip foundations, on top of a fabricated roofing felt substrate, and can be fixed to concrete different ways- using through fasteners, corners and other metal devices. The beams at the intersection points are also fastened together using strong corners.

  • They will hold securely because wood flooring The “black” and “white” floor also serves as a kind of binding fastening.

Video: construction of a frame extension with a wooden floor

Construction of extension walls

Brick or frame walls, columnar is mainly used for frame buildings. If you plan to make brickwork on the pillars, then you will have to make additional concrete lintels between the pillars.

Frame walls

  • The frame for future walls is erected from timber and secured to the previously installed crown beams. The beams can be attached to the beams separately, but sometimes it is much more convenient to assemble the wall elements in a horizontal position, on a flat area, and then install them in a vertical position already assembled.

  • To connect the frame to the wall of the house, a perfectly accurate vertical marking is made on it, along which a separate block or assembled frame element will be fixed.

  • For reliability, all bars are connected to each other with metal corners.

  • Having installed the entire frame of the extension, it is better to immediately sheathe it with boards or plywood (OSB) with outside. Sheathing will immediately make the structure more rigid.

  • Upper horizontal beam, running along the house, is attached to the main wall using reliable metal corners or anchors.
  • Insulation of the walls is carried out after the installation of the roof.

Video: another example of building a light extension to a house

Brick walls


  • Before you start building brick walls, you need to carefully check the horizontalness of the foundation surface and, if necessary, level it to perfection. If the base is uneven, the masonry may crack due to deformation during shrinkage.
  • It should be noted that brick extensions are best made to also brick house. To connect the extension to the main wall, during the construction of the walls, holes are drilled in it to two-thirds of the depth, every two or three rows of masonry. Reinforcement is embedded in them, which should protrude from the wall by about half a meter. It should be in the seams of the future masonry. To ensure that the seams in these rows are not excessively wide, the reinforcement must be chosen not too thick, or you will have to make a recess in the bricks of the row on which the reinforcement will be laid.
  • If brick extension gets a job wooden wall, then a hole is drilled through it, into which reinforcement with a transverse stopper is installed from inside the house, which will hold it in the wall. The reinforcement is also installed as the wall is erected, every two or three rows.

  • Before starting masonry, a string is stretched along the future wall, along which it will be easy to control the horizontality of the rows, and the verticality is constantly verified using a plumb line.
  • The thickness of the walls will depend on what function the extension will perform. If this is a living room, then the masonry should be at least one or two bricks. If the room will serve as a veranda or utility room, then half a brick will be sufficient.
  • Having built brick walls, they are tied along the entire top with a concrete belt. Formwork is made for it, a reinforcement structure is laid in it and poured with concrete mortar. After the solution has completely hardened, the formwork is removed from the belt, and you can begin installing the ceiling.

It should be noted that building brick walls is not as easy as it seems, therefore, if you have no experience in this work, it is better to entrust this process to a qualified mason or choose a different type of wall.

Extension ceiling and roofing

After erecting the walls, it is necessary to do ceiling. For it you will need bars - beams, which are installed on top part walls, at a distance of 60-70 cm from each other, and secured with special corners.

If the beams are laid on a brick building, they can be embedded in a concrete belt, having first wrapped the edge of each of them with roofing felt.


The next step is to line the beams with boards or thick plywood, on which insulation will be laid on top, between the beams.

The roof of the extension can have different designs, but generally the lean-to option is chosen, which is worth considering.


  • This structure consists of rafters on which the roof is laid. Installing this type of roof is quite simple, the main thing is to choose correct angle slope It must be no less than 25 30 degrees - this is necessary in order for precipitation to winter time do not linger on the surface, otherwise they may simply damage it.
  • Having determined the slope angle, a mark is made on the wall or façade of the roof in the form of a horizontal, even line along which the block supporting the rafters in the upper part will be attached. The lower support for them will be the previously laid floor beams or the edge of the wall. The rafters should extend beyond the boundaries of the constructed walls by 250 300 mm, in order to protect the walls as much as possible from rainwater.
  • The rafters are also secured using metal corners.
  • It will be more difficult to resolve the issue of roof slope if the extension is installed on the side on which the slope of the main building of the house is located, since there will simply be nothing to secure the transverse beam there. Therefore, you may have to remove several bottom rows (sheets) roofing material from the roof of the house to use its beams for securing rafter system and consolidation of common coverage.
  • You need to decide in advance what kind of roofing will be laid on top of the rafter system. If this happens soft roof or flexible tiles, then a solid material is laid on top of the rafters and secured, for example, plywood or frequent transverse lathing.
  • If large sheets will be fixed (roofing iron, metal tiles, slate, etc.), then they can be overlapped with directly installed rafters.
  • When the system under the covering material is ready, it is recommended to lay waterproofing on it. In the first case, plywood is covered with it, in the second, it is fixed to the rafters.
  • Above waterproofing material the roofing is laid, starting from the bottom of the rafter system and rising to the top. If it is necessary to combine the roof, then when joining, the top row of the extension roof is slipped under the last row of the roof slope of the main building.
  • If the roof adjoins the upper part of the roof to a wall or the front part of the roof, then the joint between them must be waterproofed.
  • When the roof over the erected extension is ready, you can begin to insulate the walls and floor.

Prices for metal tiles

Metal tiles

Insulating the extension from the inside

If the room is residential, then reliable thermal insulation is indispensable. If the ceiling is already sheathed and insulated, then you can proceed to insulating the floor.

Floor insulation on beams

If floor beams were installed on a columnar foundation for the floor, then the work proceeds as follows:

  • They are fixed to the floor beams cross beams from smaller bars.
  • It is recommended to install a subfloor on the joists; in this case, it is better to lay the boards for it as a continuous flooring, otherwise the heat will be blown out of the house.

  • Next, the entire rough coating is coated with a fairly thick clay solution, and after drying, a vapor barrier film is laid on it.
  • Mineral wool is placed tightly between the joists and expanded clay or slag is poured.

  • On top, the insulation is again covered with a vapor barrier, and a wooden floor made of boards or plywood is laid on it.
  • A decorative coating can be immediately laid on the plywood, or an infrared film floor can be installed underneath it.

Concrete floor

A concrete floor can be insulated as follows:

  • Mineral wool laid between the fixed on concrete base lag and then covered with boards or plywood.
  • One of the “warm floor” systems (electric or water), which fits into the final leveling screed;
  • Infrared film laid on a thin thermo-reflective substrate, and covered with a decorative coating;
  • Dry screed and gypsum fiber slabs.

When the floors are insulated, you can move on to thermal insulation of the walls.

Frame walls

  • For internal insulation The walls use mineral wool produced in mats. They are conveniently laid between the frame bars. This work is simple and can be done fairly quickly.
  • When the walls are covered with insulation, it is tightened vapor barrier film, securing it to the bars with staples.
  • Then the wall can be covered with natural wooden clapboard, OSB boards or plywood, plasterboard or gypsum plasterboard - there are a lot of options, there is plenty to choose from.

Expanded polystyrene can also be used as wall insulation, but its environmental and performance qualities are much worse than those of high-quality mineral wool.

Brick walls

Brick walls are usually finished on the inside with plaster or plasterboard, and insulation is carried out on the outside, but it is also done differently.

Insulation, if space allows, can be carried out in the same way as in a frame building, by securing bars to the walls and laying mineral wool between them, and then covering the structure with plasterboard slabs. Wallpaper or any other decorative material can be glued to this coating.

To do everything right, you need to study in detail each stage of the construction of the extension and adhere to the developed technologies. If you don’t have confidence in your capabilities, or you feel a clear lack of skills and experience in construction, it is better to entrust this rather complex work to qualified craftsmen.

We are adding a living space measuring 3.50m by 10m. This cinder block extension will be divided into three rooms - an entrance hall, a bathroom and a boiler room. Below is detailed instructions building this structure with your own hands. What are we doing?

First of all, it is necessary to mark the boundaries of the structure being built. To do this, pegs are dug along its planned perimeter. The foundation for the extension to the house will be built along the boundaries they create. A rope (string) is stretched between the pegs.

Next, a trench is dug the right size. Only then is the formwork constructed. IN in this case- these are old, but smooth boards. If these materials are not available, you can rent formwork in St. Petersburg. To prevent unwanted destruction of the foundation in the future, before pouring we add reinforcing materials: metal rods and wire. All rods located at a distance of no more than 40 centimeters are well secured to each other. They can simply be tied with steel wire or secured with electric welding.

After preparing the entire structure, you can pour the foundation for the extension with concrete. The solution is prepared immediately before carrying out work according to standard proportions: for 1 part of cement, take 3 parts of ordinary sand and 5 parts of crushed stone. To avoid the formation of voids, the solution is compacted. After the final pouring, we leave the foundation for 3-4 weeks so that it dries well and becomes durable.


Why cinder block? Cinder block in front of others building materials has one clear advantage - it is lightweight. Its low weight greatly simplifies the work process. Therefore, an extension to a cinder block house can be done independently, without the involvement of construction crews.

Row 1 is the most important. Therefore, waterproofing is done first. It will protect the base of the building from moisture. In this case applied horizontal waterproofing special hydro vapor barrier tapes. There are now many on the market modern materials. This is coating with mastic, spraying with a special insulating solution, rolled roofing felt, etc. After all preparatory work Let's move on to the masonry. The thread or fishing line is pulled according to the level. We throw the solution on the foundation and lay out the first row. The thickness of the mortar is approximately 1-2 cm. All walls are laid out in the same way, taking into account openings for windows and doors.


The most difficult work in building an extension is installing the roof base and laying the roof. The work takes a lot of effort and expense. You can't handle it here alone. Additional labor will be required. After purchasing all necessary materials, floor beams made of timber 15 cm by 15 cm are laid. Next, the rafters are installed. A plank sheathing is mounted on them. Already on this sheathing a metal roofing covering is laid.

The decision to build an extension can be detrimental to the foundation of the main house. Often, due to inexperience, people lay the wrong foundation and after a few months cracks appear between the house and the extension.

The article describes the process of building an extension to a house made of foam blocks with all possible mistakes and tips on how to extend its service life. How to make window and door lintels and what danger awaits when planning an opening wider than 1.75 m.

Finally, you will find some ideas for decorating and using your extension.

Why are many house extensions made from foam blocks?

Most people, when choosing a material for an extension, are increasingly inclined to use foam blocks. They have both pros and cons, but there are more pros. The main advantages of the properties of foam blocks:

  • Even a non-professional builder can handle the installation. Thanks to this, you can save on hiring specialists and complete the extension yourself from start to finish;
  • Quick installation - the adhesive solution between the foam blocks dries much faster than the concrete solution;
  • The material is fireproof - does not support combustion and does not burn;
  • Minimal settlement is ensured by the porous structure;
  • Environmentally friendly - the composition is safe for nature;
  • The porosity of the material also ensures low thermal conductivity - masonry made of foam blocks in 2 rows does not need to be insulated;
  • The service life of foam block buildings reaches 50 years or more.
  • The loose structure of the blocks allows you to cut them with a hacksaw, but it is better to use a circular saw;
  • Strength of structures - a plastered wall made of foam blocks is difficult for intruders to break through;
  • Due to its lightness, it can be used for construction on all types of soils and save on a powerful foundation;
  • Low cost compared to brick.

Minor disadvantages of the material:

  • Big influence atmospheric influences on the material require the construction of the structure in dry and warm weather and finishing or waterproofing after construction;
  • Attractiveness appearance acceptable only for the loft style, which is not yet very widespread in the country.

Step 1: Planning

At this stage, the conditions for construction are studied: soil, material of the house and its age. An extension project is being developed taking into account the number of storeys, the number of windows, the presence of doors and stairs.

The composition of the soil determines the type of future foundation. For example, on clay soil with close proximity groundwater It is reasonable to make a floating foundation. Otherwise, a few months after construction, the extension will begin to move away from the house. On earthen or rocky soils, a strip foundation adjusted for shrinkage is sufficient.

You can build an extension from foam blocks next to a wooden, brick or clay house. The construction process will differ in the way the mortgages are attached at the joint. Old houses sank deeper into the ground. Therefore, the age of the house determines the size of the expansion joint - the distance by which the extension must sag in order to be equal to the main structure.

The desire to make a two-story extension from foam blocks is best realized partially - it weighs a lot and greatly affects the draft. In this case, the 2nd floor is made of particle boards (chipboards). An economical and safe option, but the final decision depends on an analysis of the construction conditions and the desires of the home owners.

Before construction starts:

  • A project for a future extension is being developed;
  • An expansion joint is indicated;
  • The number of foam blocks, cement, consumables is calculated;
  • A place for temporary storage of building materials is being prepared.

Step 2: Selecting the type of foundation

The main types of foundations that are used when constructing an extension from foam blocks:

  • Tape- a strip of reinforced concrete along the perimeter of the building, used if a garage or basement is planned in the extension. For the construction of a one-story extension made of foam blocks, a shallow foundation with a depth of 50-70 cm is suitable. For a two-story building, a deep foundation laid 20-30 cm below the soil freezing depth;
  • Columnar- a system of pillars in places of increased load on the ground, suitable for light panoramic extensions for the construction of immovable and non-heaving soils;
  • Pile- variety columnar foundation, but using large metal poles. Withstands a weight of 2-5 tons, used in construction on soils with high buoyancy;
  • Slabmonolithic slab made of concrete as the foundation of the entire house.

In private construction, when constructing additional buildings, strip or slab foundations are often used.

Step 3: Pouring the Foundation

There are 2 options for connecting the foundations of a house and an extension: rigid, when the foundation of a new structure is adjacent to the old one, and using an expansion joint. Rigid is used for the recent construction of a house that has just completed its shrinkage period. Not used if the soil composition is dominated by clay. Making an expansion joint is simple, economical and suitable for inexperienced builders.

A rigid foundation connection is formed between the following types of foundations:

  1. "Tape-tape"— a part of the foundation of the house 1.5-2 m long is excavated, a sand cushion is laid, reinforcement 12-14 mm is driven in at a depth of ¾ of the base, and the frame of the extension is formed;
  2. "Stove-stove"- used when there are protrusions from the base, which are made during the construction of a house from foam blocks. The base of the slabs under the house should protrude at least 30 cm - in this case, the reinforcement will be exposed and connected to the extension slab.

An expansion joint is more reliable and reduces the risk of destructive effects of precipitation. The extension is being built on separate foundation close to home. In this case, it is better to use a closed contour of the base. Sheets of roofing material are laid between the bases and along the perimeter of the new foundation. When using this option, settlement of the extension will not damage the foundation of the house.

The ideal option is if the foundation of the extension was laid when pouring the foundation of the entire house and temporarily with decking for waterproofing.

Step 4: Building the Walls

The placement of gas silicate blocks starts from the corners of the extension:

  • The bottom of the foam blocks is moistened for better adhesion to the connecting solution;
  • The first 2-3 rows are additionally protected with a waterproof compound to protect against capillary moisture;
  • Before applying the next layer of solution, the top of the foam blocks is moistened;
  • The first row is laid using a level; if there are small irregularities, the quality of the masonry will suffer;
  • External masonry is usually done using an adhesive solution - the layers between the blocks are less than 2-3 mm, due to which the total area“cold bridges” and the weight of the extension is reduced. Internal partitions can be done using concrete mortar to save money;
  • The preparation of the mixture is indicated on the glue packages; it is applied to the horizontal base of the block soaked in water, and then to the vertical one;
  • The horizontal surface of the masonry is leveled by grinding with a float. Dust is swept away or removed with a construction vacuum cleaner.

Every 4 rows of masonry, reinforcement is laid in the corners to tie the structure together and prevent cracks. Using a circular saw, a square is made with sides 3 cm and a depth of 5 cm. The groove for laying the reinforcement is knocked out with a hammer and chisel. The space around the reinforcement is sealed with an adhesive solution.

Step 5: Lintels for Doors and Windows

The desire to make a panoramic veranda in an extension of foam blocks faces the problem of the maximum possible opening width of 1.75 m. The heavy load exceeds the tensile strength of the foam blocks. For such cases, silicate bricks or cinder blocks are used in construction.

When calculating the height of the lintels, the thickness of the floor is taken into account - it increases due to the installation of heated floors, leveling, and creating tiers.

Jumpers are made with removable or permanent formwork.

The first option follows the instructions:

  • Frames are made from reinforcement of the required length;
  • Support bars are installed on both sides of the opening, and panels are attached to the horizontal formwork from the “magpie”;
  • Foam blocks are sawn to length for laying inner surface formwork;
  • A frame made of reinforcement is placed inside, with a side with a large number of rods located below. The structure is secured with spacers;
  • The blocks are re-wetted for better adhesion, filled with a concrete solution with inside openings and compacted;
  • The poured surface is leveled to the level of the masonry and smoothed.

When making lintels with permanent formwork, U-shaped blocks are used. This is a more expensive option, but it saves time construction work. To install U-blocks, follow these steps:

  • At the top of the opening, in the corners, a block is placed with a support cut out at 25 cm;
  • Using a level, unevenness on the horizontal surfaces of the supports is eliminated;
  • U-blocks are installed on a regular adhesive solution with the hole facing up;
  • The reinforcement frame is laid on top, large quantity the rods are concentrated at the bottom. The structure is rigidly secured with spacers;
  • Each layer of foam block masonry above the lintel is compacted using a trowel.

When installing windows, contact your nearest bank in advance to receive “warm credits”. The state compensates part of the cost of energy-saving windows. Usually, the amount reaches 10% - for this money you can order a white shelter metal-plastic windows wood lamination.

Step 6: Reinforced belt to increase the load-bearing capacity of the walls

A belt made of reinforcement rods provides extensions with protection from wind loads and increases bearing capacity walls It is made during the construction process, directly on the walls due to its heavy weight. To mount the reinforcing belt, do the following:

  • Prepared wooden templates Reinforcement bars are laid at the corners of the row. The frames are welded together and leveled;
  • Reinforcing belt lined with longitudinal strips of foam blocks, cut circular saw;
  • The template is well wetted and filled with concrete mortar.

Formation technology reinforced belt resembles the installation of jumpers.

Step 7: Roof

The overlap is done a few days after laying the upper reinforced belt, when the strength of the concrete increases. For a foam block extension, slabs of aerated concrete or wooden frame. In the second option, all elements are coated with compounds to protect against fire, pests, and tribes.

Metal tiles are the most popular and attractive roof type, but slate is also used. For construction flat roof For a warm extension, follow the instructions:

  • Installed along the perimeter load-bearing beams;
  • A layer of boards is laid on top, roofing material or roofing felt is laid with an overlap of 15 cm;
  • The next layer is a dense layer of expanded clay (porous reddish-brown pebbles), check that there is a slight slope in the direction of precipitation flow;
  • Pouring the insulating layer with cement mortar;
  • Treating the screed with a bitumen primer and laying roofing felt.

If the width of the roof for the extension does not exceed 6 m, timber with a cut of 15*10 cm is used.

To construct a roof made of monolithic concrete slabs, I-beams are used as supports. For a roof span of 5 m, beams of 15 cm are purchased. The recommended grade of concrete is 250.

To achieve the correct consistency of concrete, a concrete mixer is used. The composition of the solution is crushed stone with a grain size of 20 mm and cement PC-400. The solution is mixed in the following proportions: 3 parts cement, 4 parts sand, 2 parts water. If necessary, water is gradually added to the concrete mixer.

The boards are attached to the bottom of the beams, and roofing felt is laid on top. Next layer - reinforced mesh profile with a diameter of less than 1 cm and a cell size of 20 * 20 cm. To predict the future repair of a flat roof, the mesh rods in the places of the lining are secured with knitting wire. In some cases, glue may be used. The main thing is that the mesh does not slide off when pouring the screed.

Before the screed is formed, fine-grained crushed stone is poured under the mesh. This creates a gap of 4 cm to separate the mesh and the roofing material.

It is best to completely fill all parts of the roof in one day. It is not advisable to fill the roof in one or more stripes. This will improve the quality of work. After pouring, the concrete is compacted manually or using special equipment. During compaction, you need to carefully monitor the position of the mesh - it should not move, tear or slide off. At the final stage, the structure is covered with plastic film. This will prevent the evaporation of moisture from the surface at elevated temperatures and preserve upper layer from cracks.

Concrete is kept under the film for 3 days. Completely dry concrete floor covered with a layer of insulating materials. The slope towards the sliding of future precipitation is taken into account. At the end, at the final stage, the final screed is done, the installation of the rolled carpet. If desired, the monolithic roof is additionally insulated before covering it with metal tiles.

Step 8: Exterior and interior decoration

At the end of the construction of the extension, it is insulated with foam panels. Insulation is carried out from the outside so that the dew point does not end up inside the structure. The foam is laid in one or two rows around the perimeter of the extension using standard technology.

The outside walls are finished with plastering and painting, siding, block-high, and decorative stone.

The peculiarity of foam blocks is that during construction they produce enough flat wall and for her interior decoration Plastering and painting is enough. Some ideas for interior decoration of the extension:

Without use exterior finishing, need to protect the extension waterproofing layer. Otherwise, the foam blocks will become saturated with moisture and begin to gradually deteriorate.

Conclusion

Extension made of foam blocks - economical option rapid expansion of living space. If desired, such a structure can be erected independently in 2-3 weeks. The main thing is to analyze the conditions for construction in advance and correctly draw up a project.

Today we will look at all the nuances of building a new house or extension from the so-called cinder block, or as people also call it: “wall stone”. First of all, it’s worth talking about the material itself; what is a modern cinder block? It is made from construction waste and cement using vibration pressing or natural shrinkage. According to GOST, the size of the cinder block should be: 20*20*40 (height 200 mm, width 200 mm, length 4000 mm). But since this material can be made at home, you can safely use other sizes. Basically, it is made hollow, so that air is retained in the middle of the block, but there are also solid cinder blocks (foundation), which I use for laying the first rows. This material is well suited for load-bearing structures, as it can withstand heavy loads, unlike materials such as aerated block or foam concrete, but we will talk about the advantages and disadvantages a little later.

Building a cinder block house: main stages

And so you wanted to build a new house, you have already decided on its dimensions, the only question left is the choice of material. In our case, we will build a house from cinder blocks.

Stage 1 - construction of the foundation

The first thing any construction begins is the construction of the foundation. The foundation for our structure must be strong since the weight of the cinder block is quite large, from 18 to 28 kg 1 pc. The width of the foundation is from 30 to 40 cm. For a one-story building, a foundation measuring 70 to 100 cm will be sufficient. For a two-story building, the foundation must be dug to a distance of at least 150 cm. If you adhere to these standards, subsidence of the foundation will be minimal.

Before you start digging a hole for the foundation, you need to measure out the diagonals correctly, example in the photo:

Once you have taken all the measurements and tightened the string, you can begin digging the foundation for your cinder block house. For pouring the foundation, the best solution is prepared according to the following scheme:

  • 3 buckets of screenings;
  • 1 bucket of cement (grade PTs-1 M-500);
  • 3 buckets of fine crushed stone 10-20.

Before pouring, it is necessary to tie the reinforcement so that our foundation does not collapse after many years. The photo shows one of the options for tying the reinforcement:

It is advisable to fill the foundation with continuous casting, within one day; if this is not possible, then try to make a minimum gap in time, this will allow the foundation to become one solid structure. Then comes the drying period of the solution. According to GOST, the solution takes 28 days to completely set, but you can begin to build a structure already in the 3rd week after pouring the foundation.

Stage 2 - erection of walls (laying cinder blocks)

Before starting masonry, you need to waterproof the foundation so that moisture does not get into the blocks, this can be done using roofing felt or other modern means. Next, we begin laying the cinder block; the most important thing in laying is to set the corners correctly. The first 2 - 4 rows must be placed very carefully, because the evenness of the future structure depends on them. First, the corners are set and the string is pulled from them, after which the entire row is laid; the photo shows an example of how to lay a cinder block correctly:

We make the solution 1/4 (1 part m500 cement and 4 parts sand). For this material, when laying, a mortar layer of 1 - 1.5 cm is allowed. It is better not to make a large layer of mortar, because this will cause additional freezing in winter period. Laying is done very simply and quickly, the main rule is to align the blocks along the cord and level, then you will not have problems in the future.

Also, when laying, you definitely need a checkerboard tie, it starts from the corner. That is, each subsequent row should not meet at the seams of the bottom row, but end in the middle; this will make the structure stronger and more stable. This type of masonry is used for almost all materials (brick, shell rock, gas block), so we will not dwell on this.

Stage 3 - installation of lintels for windows and doors

For this type of material, you can use both jumpers from the corner and make fills using reinforcement. If you choose a corner, then its size must be at least 60. It is exposed to the solution on both sides, and the blocks are placed inside. It also happens that the blocks will need to be trimmed by a few centimeters. A grinder with a circle on concrete is excellent for pruning. The photo shows how you can install a corner under a window:

Next we finish the last rows. If your house is two-story, then beams or metal channels, on which the floor between the first and second floors will be supported and the masonry continues until the desired height is reached. Beams can be poured into a concrete belt, which will allow them to hold more securely; you can also fasten the rafter board into a concrete belt, but this is optional.

At this point, the construction of the house is completed, the question remains behind the roof. But since the roof is complex design, we will talk about this in the next article.

Advantages and disadvantages of cinder block

This material has many advantages, but at the same time it also has many disadvantages; many builders praise it, many on the contrary. But still this material deserves attention.

Pros of cinder block

  • Low price;
  • Good load-bearing capacity;
  • Can be produced at home;
  • Ease of laying;
  • Hollow;
  • There are several types;
  • Durability

Disadvantages of cinder block

  • Poor frost resistance;
  • Low sound insulation;
  • Poor environmental safety;

But as practice shows, this material lends itself well to insulation, for example, foam plastic or mineral wool. And in the current period of crisis, this material is successfully used for the construction of not only industrial buildings but also for the construction of full-fledged houses and buildings.

We also invite you to watch a video about building a cinder block house.

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