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» Cutting chipboard without chips at home. How to cut chipboard without chipping in a home workshop. Cutting panels at home

Cutting chipboard without chips at home. How to cut chipboard without chipping in a home workshop. Cutting panels at home

Let’s try to briefly figure out how to cut chipboard without chipping at home. Currently, cabinet furniture, which is also made from chipboard, is very popular. Laminated chipboard is a finely sanded chipboard coated with a paper-resin film. The coating is durable and beautiful. In addition, chipboard compared to solid wood cheap material, and due to laminated coating, there is no need to paint or varnish the finished product.

The texture and color of the surface are very varied, but main drawback The problem with chipboard is that if it is not cut carefully, the material may chip.

How to cut chipboard

Chipboard can be sawn hand saw with fine teeth, jigsaw, circular saw. The cut area is taped with masking tape and cut along the cut line with a sharp knife. The knife cuts through the laminate and the top grain of the wood underneath. Further, when passing the saw, the chipboard will not chip. Finishing the end under a C-shaped overlay edging when making furniture, this method is quite suitable. And under melamine self-adhesive tape It's better to use another method.

Using a jigsaw or circular saw, we cut the chipboard with a margin of 2-3 mm. from the cutting line. I sawed along the guide with a jigsaw. You can use any smooth strip or rule as a guide. In my case, fiberglass lath is 150 mm wide. thickness 4 mm. As described above, chips formed on the chipboard.

Next, set the guide exactly along the cutting line and manual router Using an edge cutter we remove these 2-3 mm. which we kept in reserve. The design of the edge cutter has a bearing on the shank equal to the diameter of the cutter itself. As a result, we get a perfectly smooth edge, to which you can easily glue self-adhesive melamine tape. Also, when cutting curved cuts, you cannot do without using a router. Using a jigsaw, we make a guide with the required radii and also go through the end with an edge cutter. The method of cutting chipboard without chipping is also suitable for cutting laminated plywood and MDF.

Any home craftsman sooner or later he faces the need to cut chipboard. This could be making furniture with your own hands or covering walls. MDF panels or chipboard. As you know, sawing chipboard is not difficult, but making an even cut without chips is not an easy task.

Do it yourself or order it?

A custom cut will be smoother

High quality sawing chipboard difficult to do manually due to big size sheets. Dimensions standard plate 2440x1200, and that's not the limit. However, if you work with chipboard or MDF quite often, it makes sense to get an expensive tool and work for your own pleasure. If you only need to cut a few sheets, you can go two ways:

  • Cut the slabs yourself using available hand tools;
  • Order cutting of chipboard in a specialized workshop.

What to choose is up to you, and we will consider each of these options.

Cutting panels at home

It is quite possible to saw a sheet of chipboard or laminated chipboard by hand. True, in this case you are unlikely to be able to avoid the appearance of chips and burrs, but you can try to reduce their number and size.

There are several rules that should be followed when cutting chipboard panels:

  • sheets must be cut on a level surface hard surface. For sawing large panels, you can adapt two large tables (their height should be the same!);
  • to prevent chipping, stick sticky tape or good masking tape along the cutting line, which will hold the edges of the laminated layer;
  • For sawing with a hand saw, select a blade with a grinding tooth. The saw teeth should be sharpened well. You need to drive the saw with slight pressure, under acute angle to the surface, constantly monitoring its position;
  • To cut chipboards and laminated chipboards using a jigsaw, the cut line should be scratched or even cut through. It is best to use a sharp knife to cut through the durable laminate layer;
  • install a file with fine reverse teeth;
  • select the maximum speed of the jigsaw, turn off the “pendulum”;
  • fasten an even strip along the cut line and move the jigsaw strictly along it;
  • The jigsaw should be pressed firmly against the surface being cut.

All these recommendations help to correctly saw and cut chipboard, but chipping, nevertheless, cannot be completely avoided. Therefore, if it is so important to get a perfectly smooth, even cut line, without chips or saw marks, you should contact specialized workshops where they will cut out any shape from a sheet of chipboard for a reasonable fee.

Precision and quality

Accurate cutting is the key to success

Format cutting machines for sawing laminated chipboards and chipboards have high quality cutting, which allows you to reduce subsequent costs for processing cuts (grinding, removing chips and burrs, and so on). That is why such machines can be used to cut any complexity and configuration, which means almost inexhaustible possibilities in furniture production. Fantasy children's furniture, comfortable tabletops computer desks, figured through carved decorations in the doors kitchen facades– all this is possible using machines.

There are two types of panel cutting machines:

  • vertical, which are a strong, rigid, vibration-resistant welded bed (frame), installed vertically with a backward deviation of 50°, with guides located above and below, along which the saw beam moves. It is a bracket for the saw unit, which moves up and down along the beam, and also rotates 90°, which allows you to make both vertical and horizontal cuts. The cutting precision is amazing. A special scoring unit is used for sawing laminated chipboard, as well as hard, corrugated or porous boards. The rotation speed of the saw reaches 15 thousand revolutions per minute;
  • horizontal, consisting of a table for the stove, a carriage for moving the saw along the saw mechanism and the saw mechanism itself, consisting of one or two cutting units. The cutting units themselves are equipped with a main and scoring saw. The principle of operation is simple: the main saw deeply cuts through the chipboard, and the scoring saw accurately and clearly cuts the bottom edge (veneer or laminated surface). The saw unit can also be tilted up to 45°.

The miter saw is a “domesticated” and greatly reduced copy of the horizontal saw. It will not be possible to cut a wide sheet of chipboard or laminated chipboard on it, but it can handle small parts quite well.

We cut other types of panels

Cutting MDF differs from cutting chipboard panels. The high density of the material quickly dulls the saw teeth, so it often has to be sharpened or completely replaced. Unfinished MDF can be cut using a regular machine, but laminated board requires a machine with an additional bottom saw. This is especially important when cutting slabs with a double-sided finish.

Fiberboard can be cut at home using an electric or hand jigsaw. Of course, the file must be sharp, with a fine tooth; the jigsaw must be set to maximum speed. Install the fiberboard horizontally on a support that should not interfere with sawing (between two tables or chairs, for example), secure it with clamps if necessary.

The electric jigsaw should be held with both hands, pressed firmly against the surface, and moved smoothly, strictly along the marking line, without jerking or pressing. The same applies to working with a hand jigsaw.

In cases where it is necessary to cut many sheets of material, it is more convenient to contact a specialized company. This will save you time and effort.

Video on cutting chipboard using a circular saw

It is not always easy to cut chipboard beautifully and without chips. See how to do it correctly:

Everyone knows that laminated chipboard is our chipboard, which is covered with a paper-resin film. The lamination process takes place under special conditions: pressure 25-28 MPa, temperature 140-210 °C. The surface is durable, smooth, and beautiful. The laminated chipboard coating is very resistant to mechanical stress and to thermal ones. Because of these qualities, laminated chipboard has become simply necessary for furniture production and for interior decoration.

Some craftsmen like to make furniture themselves. They buy chipboard good quality from manufacturers or in special construction stores. Since the color range of laminated chipboard is very rich, you can easily choose required material. The surface of laminated chipboard also has the most varied structure, since it can be smooth or imitate wood. different breeds or stone.

To make special furniture or unique interior with your own hands, it’s not enough to just buy laminated chipboard and draw it into details. The laminated chipboard coating is very thin, its structure is fragile. If you cut laminated chipboard roughly and incorrectly, the cut will turn out ugly, torn, and cavities will form on the edges. To be able to cut laminated chipboard correctly and not get chips and cracks, you need to know some little “tricks” of the job.

Rules for sawing laminated chipboards

To cut laminated chipboard at home, use a hand saw with fine teeth, a circular saw or an electric jigsaw. To complete the job without any problems, you need to do the following:

  1. Secure the adhesive tape tightly exactly along the cut line. The tape will prevent the saw teeth from damaging the coating film.
  2. Use a sharp knife to cut through the coating and the layer underneath along the cutting line. In this case, the saw will only cut inner layer Chipboard, and touch the coating only tangentially.
  3. The hand saw, when working with it, should be placed at an angle (very sharp) to the surface of the slab.
  4. When cutting with a power tool, you need to use a minimum feed.
  5. When the part is cut out, you need to cut the edge of the coating at an angle of 45° with a sharp knife.
  6. The cut is polished using a fine file, the cut is processed towards the center from the edges.

The edge of the sawn laminated chipboard should be covered with a special overlay to prevent any chips or cracks on it in the future. To protect the cut, you can use self-adhesive melamine tape, or a C-shaped edge, or a T-shaped edge.

LDSP is a very common chipboard covered with a paper-resin film, which is also finely sanded. Lamination occurs at a temperature of 140-210 degrees Celsius and at a pressure of 25-28 MPa. After the entire lamination procedure, the surface turns out to be beautiful, durable, resistant to thermal influences and mechanical damage, which gives the chipboard a very attractive appearance when making furniture and when finishing the interior of a room.

A large number of craftsmen prefer to make furniture themselves and for this they buy high-quality laminated chipboard from manufacturers or in ordinary construction stores. A wide range of colors when laminating the surface allows you to easily choose required material. Textures also have a variety: it can be embossed to look like wood spores or shagreen, or smooth, and also imitate a natural stone or wood.

But in order to make an exclusive interior or unique furniture yourself, it is not enough to simply purchase laminated chipboard. The laminated coating has a very fragile structure. If not correct actions The cutting of laminated chipboard turns out to be very ragged, and deep cavities appear on the edges. In order to cut laminated chipboard without cracks and chips, you need to know a few tricks when making a cut.

Basic rules for cutting laminated chipboard

You can cut laminated chipboard at home using a circular saw, a jigsaw, or a hand saw with fine teeth. For all work to be successful, you should:

  • Secure the adhesive tape very tightly along the main cut line, which does not allow the teeth to harm the front part of the surface.
  • Using a sharp knife, make a cut along the cutting line in the laminated coating. In this case, the saw will cut the inner layers of the chipboard, having only a tangential effect on the coating.
  • When working, a hand-held saw should be positioned at a very acute angle relative to the surface of the board.
  • Sawing with electric tool with minimal feed.
  • On this part, cut off the surface edge layer at an angle of 45 degrees with a thin knife.
  • Sanding the cut area should be done with a small file, sanding the cut in the direction from the edges to the center.

To subsequently protect the surface from cracks and chips, you should use overlays: C-shaped overlay edge, self-adhesive melamine tape, T-shaped edge.

The furniture in the store is beautiful and attractive. Road. And it doesn’t always turn out to be exactly the desired addition to the interior as it was pictured in the wildly over-the-top imagination.

Another thing is custom-made furniture. The master came (at least that’s what they call themselves), tried on everything, asked everything, assessed everything, and left to fulfill the order. Sometimes for a long time. Less often is not quite what was required. But the price of custom-made furniture is often even higher than its counterpart, which is languishing in the store.

Guided by such considerations, the heads of Russian families with average incomes often think that it would be nice to acquire the skills of the legendary Papa Carlo themselves and sculpt masterpieces of furniture architecture right at the place of their future residence. That is, at home.

Starting, as a rule, with “light infantry” - stools, bedside tables, stands - simple hacksaw and ax workers inevitably face one problem. Her name is Smooth cutting of chipboard. By making reciprocating movements with the same hacksaw, or (even worse) by moving a vibrating jigsaw along the drawn marking line, they get anything but straight cut material. Well, maybe even. But this is a rare rarity.

But for cabinet furniture, geometrically perfect ends wooden slabs have, one might say, critical importance. This is the quality of fit of the elements among themselves, and appearance decor and so on in general.

In what ways did our ancestors, who were more skilled in this matter, achieve this level of processing?

When working with a hacksaw, the tool itself is most important: its choice depends on the material being processed, its qualities and properties. For the now widespread chipboard, it is highly advisable to use a hacksaw with small teeth set at half the thickness of the blade. A larger spread will result in a wide cut and unwanted chips; narrow - jamming the tool in a sheet of chipboard, which leads to mild psychosis. In addition, if a hacksaw is equipped with hardened teeth, this is only a plus for it - the setting is preserved better and the sharpening is lost more slowly. It is important.

However, cutting long cuts with such a hacksaw is fraught with significant fatigue, since the small and frequent “teeth” quickly become clogged with wood dust and are no longer able to effectively perform their functions in this state. But still, at home, using a tool with exactly these parameters is most preferable. The sawing itself should be done at the most acute angle of the cutting edge of the hacksaw to the slab being cut. This is less tiring, and in addition, it gives the desired even cut.

Among the electrified devices in this area, such figures as an electric jigsaw and a miter saw are known.

The first is characterized by a rather riotous character when carried out uncontrollably around the workpiece. The methods for restricting his freedom are quite simple and unpretentious. This is, first of all:

  • guide – smooth and straight, preferably a metal ruler, secured with clamps along the marking line. By resting the sole against it, the tool covers its distance almost perfectly, without “blockages” or chips.
  • the file itself - its parameters, this is its rigidity and purpose - for a simple chipboard - with small teeth directed upwards and without setting, for wood - set large teeth, predatorily sticking out in different directions from the plane of the canvas. But you should remember about the first ones that, after about a meter of cutting, their blade will inevitably heat up, lose its qualities and “tear” to the side. Almost always this happens with 100% inevitability;
  • adhesive tape pasted from the side where the teeth exit to the surface. Or better yet, both. You never know... Chips appear in these places. However, it is useful to monitor the strength of the bonding of the adhesive tape itself to the surface being treated: if it is subsequently removed, it is capable of creating characteristic flaws, even worse than a file;
  • two parallel cuts with a carpenter's knife on both sides of the marking line for the entire length of the intended cut. This also saves from chipping, and is especially important for laminated chipboard sheets.

After sawing, you can refine the cut with a router or grinder However, firstly, this is due to circumstances, and secondly, too many tools are already required for a cabinet that will appear in life once and for many years.

There is only one thing that can be said about a miter saw: it is necessary.