A luxurious bathhouse, made with your own hands from the floorboard to the door handle - isn’t this a source of pride? After all, how interesting it is to understand the little things, learn about new technologies and bring every detail to perfection! There are, of course, stages in the work that are quite complex - such as manufacturing, installing doors to the bathhouse and insulating it. Just a couple of mistakes and an unpleasant draft will become omnipresent. Or even worse - frost forms on the door in a matter of seconds after kindling...
All of the above can be easily avoided if you know how to make a door to a bathhouse - cut it out door frame, insulate it, and install it correctly. And, the most important thing is compliance with the basic requirements:
Many companies today sell a special entrance door to the bathhouse - but at an exorbitant price. But it can be done quickly, easily and at minimal cost.
So, how to make a door for a bathhouse - let’s figure it out instead of the portal website
So, it is advisable to make the height of the entrance bath door no more than 160-170 cm, so that precious heat does not escape into the street. Optimal distance between the jambs - 60-70 cm, and the width of the door is made of such dimensions that will prevent heat loss as much as possible. It is advisable to make the doors to the bathhouse with your own hands single-leaf - so that they open outward.
In total, there are two doors in the bathhouse - one at the entrance to the bathhouse, the second to the steam room. But it happens that the dressing room is also a washing room, especially when the bathhouse, due to budget limitations, was built to be quite miniature. By the way, if glass is needed in the door, then you can only take it special - tempered. Further, the door itself should not turn out to be too voluminous or massive - its main task is thermal insulation, and not protecting something valuable from thieves. Yes, it won’t be difficult to break one from the outside - but even in the event of a fire, vacationers themselves can easily demolish it. And it’s hard to imagine what would happen if a person choking on smoke tried to open a stuck door to a bathhouse, which was made using the latest technology with maximum protection.
The ideal material for making a bath door is wood. It was from this that everything was always made in the old Russian baths - because it perfectly withstands all changes in air humidity and temperature. The handle for the door to the bathhouse can also be made exclusively from wood - otherwise you can get seriously burned. And, by the way, plastic to wood in this case is not the best alternative. But it is advisable to treat the inner surface of the door with antiseptics - the same as for the walls of the bathhouse. But not with drying oil or varnish - all of them will release toxic substances into the hot and humid air that those who are taking bath procedures at that moment breathe.
The most proven option for a do-it-yourself bathhouse door is tightly knit linden or aspen boards, always in one layer. As soon as the base is ready, the door needs to be insulated - this is important. Moreover, the insulation must be thorough - made of cotton wool, tow, polystyrene foam, felt and mineral wool. The outside will be covered with boards or dermantin, or, in extreme cases, with simple plywood. But under no circumstances should the bath door be heated or deformed by humid and hot air.
An amazing fact: many bathhouse attendants notice that the bathhouse doors they made themselves have served faithfully for many years, and there is not a trace of deformation on them, but just expensive works art purchased from companies for a lot of money with a quality guarantee “especially for the Russian bath” begins to lose its appearance already in the second year. And all because when something is done for oneself, it is always done according to technology, without saving material and certainly without any hackwork. But no one will be responsible for the conscientiousness of workers in the basement of some company. And in the end it turns out that beautiful door, which smells pleasantly of wood, the next year after drying it begins to “delight” with serious cracks and loss of shape.
So, the most optimal sizes do-it-yourself sauna doors – 1.8 m x 0.7 m. Good wood for these purposes it is alder, aspen and linden. If only available conifers– then they must be processed so that the resin does not release later.
To make one, follow these instructions:
How tight and reliable the fit of the boards and dowels on the glue is - that is how long the door for a bathhouse made by yourself will last.
But this is just door leaf. And it still needs to be installed in the log house. And there are some subtleties here.
So, if the door is installed incorrectly, it will expand by 1 mm each time you use the bath and gain moisture. And this is a fungus and its destruction. That is why at one time frame structures with panels began to be actively used - so the door swells only along two vertical beams, and the panels are inserted into the groove itself with a gap of 4 mm - this allows them to “walk” regardless of the entire structure. Important point: You can install the door only when the bathhouse frame has already collapsed - this is at least 6-8 months after its assembly. Otherwise, the geometry of the door will be hopelessly damaged - distortions and even serious cracks will occur.
You can use this method, but today they most often do it differently: the door is made with an overlap on the frame on special screw-in hinges - this creates a feigned gap of 5 mm on the side, although it is completely invisible neither from the back nor from the front. front side. And any seal can easily be squeezed into this fusion.
How are these loops different from regular ones? It's simple: card cards are simply hammered into the entire thickness of the canvas, and after installation they cannot be adjusted - except by lining the washers. But screw-in hinges are used in a different way: the canvas is overtaken around the perimeter, a quarter of the protruding part 18x16 is cut out on it, and you get a rebate on the canvas without a box. The screw-in loop is screwed with the leg into this quarter, and the second into the box. That's the whole technology - if at all times craftsmen made bathhouse doors with one hammer, what can we say about today!
All that remains is to check the door - if it opens freely and completely and closes without any gaps - everything was done correctly.
A bathhouse in the country is as integral an attribute and a source of pride for our person on vacation as a barbecue. And just like a solid device for preparing delicious meat, good bath you can build it yourself. As a last resort, order a ready-made log house assembled, and make the doors and windows yourself. The sauna door should be perfectly steam-tight and easy to open. If it is poorly fitted to the box, then heat will be blown out through the cracks. Achieve this High Quality quite possible if you make it yourself.
There is a huge difference between the door from the dressing room to the street and the door to the steam room or washing room. Although all these doors are bath doors.
Such a door can be anything - wooden, metal with some kind of cladding, plastic, MDF or chipboard. The main requirement is that it must have good thermal insulation. It is unlikely that you will like to sit on a bench, relaxing, after a steam room and a font, and at the same time feel the cold from the door. But it is resistant to high temperatures and very high humidity she doesn't have to be.
On metal door with a well-insulated box, condensation will not accumulate, but in winter it is dangerous to touch it wet hands With outside
A plastic door does not freeze like a metal one and is cheaper
TO wooden log house A wooden entrance door is most suitable, but it must be protected from rotting
When choosing insulation for metal front door When entering a bathhouse, you need to remember its purpose and operating conditions.
Corrugated cardboard, which is positioned as insulation, cannot be used as insulation. Its thermal conductivity is very high.
Corrugated cardboard does not retain heat well, so it cannot be used as insulation for an entrance door
In the same way, you cannot use foam blocks; they are very flammable and emit a lot of toxic gases when burned.
Foam blocks emit toxic substances when heated and are very flammable, so bathhouse doors are not insulated with them
Insulation can be done polyurethane foam, which will penetrate into all corners of your structure, but it is also flammable and also emits gases when burned.
It is also not recommended to use polyurethane foam to insulate a bathhouse door, because it emits harmful substances when heated
It is better to use non-flammable mineral wool, it is environmentally friendly and cheap, but due to its high hygroscopicity, it is necessary to lay a vapor barrier on both sides - foil or polyethylene. However, it can “settle” inside the door during operation.
When insulating with mineral wool, it is necessary to lay a vapor barrier frame
Excellent insulation for such doors is heat-reflecting insulation “Isover” made of polyurethane foam with one-sided or two-sided foil coating. It has minimal thermal conductivity and is not flammable.
Fiberglass insulation Izover “Sauna” retains heat well and has a special foil coating to protect against wet steam
The most The best decision- ready-made Rokwool insulation. This mineral wool basalt rocks, non-flammable, produced in the form of timber or canvas, therefore not subject to deformation.
Rokwool insulation is made from stone wool and is sold in the form of slabs or timber
Doors to the steam room are used in much more difficult conditions, and more stringent requirements are imposed on their material.
Glass doors are not used in steam rooms due to possible damage due to temperature deformations
Heat-resistant plastic is more resistant to deformation, so it can be used as a material for a steam room door
The wooden door to the bathhouse must be absolutely airtight and withstand large temperature changes
Wooden bathhouse frame door It is better to insulate with mineral wool
It is much more difficult to make a combined door to a bathhouse than a wooden one
IN log sauna it is most logical to install a wooden door 
The door in the bathhouse can be decorated with a wooden carved handle 
Craftsmen create unique designer doors for a bath 
glass door with a pattern can be placed at the entrance to the sauna 
A narrow door to the steam room helps reduce heat loss 
Doors made of wood are often a real work of art 
Plastic doors do not heat up like metal ones and last longer than wooden ones
Let's assume that our bathhouse is a log house. This is the most common and optimal design.
Doors and windows can only be inserted into a frame, from the moment of manufacture of which sufficient time has passed, ideally at least a year, i.e. after its complete shrinkage. But even after this, you have to constantly caulk the building, since the logs are constantly moving relative to each other.
The door will be subject to extreme stress high temperature and humidity. It is very important that steam not only does not escape when closed door, but also so that it goes out to a minimum when people enter and exit.
Therefore, the door to the steam room is traditionally made low. Its height depends on the height of the finished ceiling of the steam room itself, and it, in turn, depends on the height and number of “floors” - shelves. But very high ceiling
it never happens in the bathhouse - usually it is at the level of 220–230 centimeters.
The steam is at the top, and if it is not dispersed with brooms and towels, you can easily notice that its thickness is usually 60–70 centimeters. With a well-designed bathhouse, this is enough. The steam cools and sinks, fresh portions take its place, but the thickness of this layer is practically unchanged. The height of the door lintel should not reach the vapor layer, preferably even with some margin. We count: 230–60 = 170 centimeters, subtract the “reserve” of 10 centimeters, the result: optimal height
doors -160 centimeters.
Another condition is a high threshold. It prevents the coldest air, which is usually located near the floor, from entering the steam room when people enter and exit and protects against drafts when the door is closed. There is another funny advantage: when we raise our leg, we involuntarily remember the low ceiling and avoid unnecessary head impacts.
The width of the door depends not only on the above factors, but also on your convenience. Usually it is not very wide, but not too narrow so as not to squeeze through. Let's take the width to be 70 centimeters.
The drawing indicates the dimensions of the door and door frame
The door should not be greatly deformed, swell or dry out due to changes in temperature and humidity. Therefore, it must be made of dense, high-quality wood.
There are several options for choosing wood for making a bathhouse door:
We choose coniferous pine - this is a harmonious relationship between price, properties and ease of processing. It has a fairly high density - 520 kg/m.
Purely wooden door It can be two- or three-layer - the middle is made of tongue-and-groove boards, sheathed on both sides with clapboard, in this case vertical strapping is required. But this is a labor-intensive and material-intensive task.
It is quite difficult to make a door from a tongue-and-groove board with a vertical frame
It is especially difficult to correctly make a strapping profile: this requires professional carpentry tools.
The profile of the strapping must be very precisely adjusted to the existing tongue and groove board. For this you need professional tools and special skills
We will make a single-layer door without insulation. This means that it must be assembled from thick boards without cracks. This in turn means that the board must be tongue-and-groove.
A tongue and groove board is a board with a groove on one side along its entire length and a protrusion on the other. Products from such a board are assembled like a Lego set: a tongue and groove is inserted into a groove, often with glue. A correctly produced tongue and groove board has no roughness, knots or defects and is not deformed in a helical manner.
The tongue and groove board must be straight and level, without helical bends
Knots will fall out over time, and when exposed to temperature and moisture this will happen very quickly. If you still couldn’t buy a board without knots, you can restore the boards - cut out the knots with a so-called Forstner drill and insert plugs with glue in their place. But this can only be done for the outside of the door.
Any knots in the board can be drilled out using special tool and insert wooden plugs in their place
To produce a door, we also need a beam with a cross-section described by the formula c/d<2, где c и d - стороны бруса.
The beam must be rectangular in shape with an aspect ratio of 1:2 or less
| Position | Name | Specification | Quantity |
| 1 | Pine tongue and groove board | 46x125x3000 mm | 4 pieces |
| 2 | Profiled pine beam for strapping | 50x50x3000 | 1 piece |
| 3 | Pine timber for door frame | 60x130x3000 | 4 pieces |
| 4 | Simple pine board for platbands | 25x100x3000 | 4 pieces |
| 5 | Wooden bath handles | 2 pieces | |
| 6 | Beam for pigtail | 100x200x3000 | 2 pieces |
| 7 | Wood glue | ||
| 8 | Door hinges brass hinged | The orientation of the hinges is selected depending on the location of the door | 3 pieces |
| 9 | Wooden bath door locks | 2 pieces | |
| 10 | Anchor bolts, self-tapping screws |
We choose a tool that is familiar to us. Not every household has a milling machine, although it is more convenient and quicker for them to select grooves when staking and tying. But you can get by with a chisel and hammer. True, then the process will take much longer.
You can buy tongue-and-groove boards, or you can make them yourself - provided that you have a milling machine or a hand cutter and you know how to work with them.
The tongue and groove board must be processed with a plane
The tongue and groove boards are connected to each other so that the gap between them is no more than 1 mm
Dovetail keyway connection
Now you can start assembling the box and decorating the doorway.
After assembling the leaf and door frame, hinges are inserted into them and a ready-made kit for installation is obtained
The opening is cut according to the existing dimensions of the already assembled door.
The casing is attached to the bathhouse frame only vertically
It is almost impossible to completely make a glass door for a bathhouse with your own hands. Therefore, if the opening is completely non-standard and completely excludes the purchase of a ready-made door, then they cut the glass sheet of the required size, select and order the door frame, hinges and handles in the store. And it’s really good if you can buy a standard ready-made glass door. But you can install such a door yourself.
A glass door in a sauna house made of logs is absolutely impossible due to the deformation of the frame. It can only be installed in brick or block buildings.
The size of the glass door is usually predetermined during the construction of the bathhouse. In addition, such doors are used not in steam rooms, but in saunas and hammams. Therefore there is no need to reduce the door height. There are preset dimensions for finished doors.
Ready-made glass doors have standard sizes
But sometimes, knowing in advance the desired size of the door, you can create the required opening when laying the bathhouse.
When building a bathhouse, you can lay an opening for a door of a specific size
The finished kit is disassembled into two parts: glass and box
The door frame elements are adjusted to the hydraulic level and fixed with anchor bolts
Beautiful wooden handles complement the elegant glass door design
A glass door made of tinted glass looks great in any bathhouse, the main thing is that it is not subject to stress when the building deforms
Share with your friends!The door to the bathhouse should be as airtight as possible and have low thermal conductivity. Modern tempered glass products are airtight and beautiful. These can be seen in saunas. But a simple wooden structure will not be able to cope with the task of preserving heat. It will dry out and let the cold into the steam room. It is necessary to perform additional insulation of the bathhouse door. Our experts will tell you in this article how to insulate a bathhouse door with your own hands using various methods. The information will be useful to beginners and experienced professionals.
The door to the bathhouse must be insulated.
In a traditional Russian bathhouse, a small wooden door is installed. Its maximum size is 180x70 cm. The old one dries out and cracks appear on the canvas. It is also necessary to insulate a new sealed door; the fact is that the gaps between the door leaf and the frame remain in any case. A gap of 0.5 cm is necessary so that when the structure swells it does not stop functioning. If you do not insulate the entrance box, then heat loss into the steam room will be 60% higher. According to statistics, 20% of heat escapes through uninsulated windows, 10% through the ceiling, 10% through the floor and the rest through a poorly insulated door.
To insulate the bath door, various materials are used: polystyrene foam, various types of basalt material, fiberglass. But you should not use any type of insulation in the steam room. The material must be environmentally friendly, not afraid of moisture and allow oxygen to pass through well.
There are several ways to insulate a door, the most common being from above or inside the frame structure. When insulating from above, the material is covered with a facing material, for example, linden lining, to give an aesthetic appearance.
The main criterion when choosing a material is vapor permeability. The use of various polystyrene foam and polyethylene materials leads to the destruction of the wooden structure. She stops breathing and the wood becomes wet from the wet steam. We won’t talk about the combination of moisture and wood again.
Among the most popular breathable materials are: felt, basalt wool, ecowool, foil insulation.
Attention! You should not use foam rubber to insulate the door to a steam room. It absorbs moisture well and keeps it inside for a long time. The canvas will begin to rot and the structure will quickly become unusable.
Felt can be natural wool or mixed (30% synthetic fiber/70% natural, 50%/50%). Only natural material is suitable for the steam room. If a spark hits it, synthetics will quickly catch fire, while natural wool will smolder and smoke heavily. This will be a signal to the owners.
Felt for insulating doors is only completely natural. Pros of felt:
The main disadvantage of the material is the high price. For comparison, 1 m of natural felt costs from 1800 rubles, fiberglass from 120 rubles.
Basalt wool is a natural material that breathes and allows steam to pass through well. Consists of natural basalt fibers. Sold in rolls or mats. To insulate the entrance box in the steam room, use insulation no more than 1 cm thick.
Basalt wool is suitable for insulating a bath door because it is not afraid of high or low temperatures. The material has advantages:
It was believed that basalt wool has no negative sides. But scientists recently discovered that the fiber adhesive releases toxic phenolphthalein fumes when heated. And judging by the reviews, when interacting with wet steam, basalt begins to smell unpleasant. Therefore, we do not recommend using basalt insulation.
Foil insulation for steam rooms has a lot of advantages:
The downside is that you can only insulate a bathhouse structure with such material from the inside of the steam room, since when finishing the exterior, moisture will get to the wood.
When the material is selected, it is necessary to decide on the method of insulating the bathhouse entrance structure. We will tell you about a few of the simplest ones that are easy to do with your own hands.
Among the various insulation methods, the following stand out: in a frame, using Energoflex, with a thermal curtain. To work you will need tools:
The work is carried out in the following stages:
In the end, you should get a structure that, when the door is closed, will rest against the door jamb and will not allow cold air to penetrate inside the bathhouse. The door leaf does not get wet and will last a long time.
Scheme for insulating a bathhouse door using a thermal frame The work, even without additional skills, will take no more than 2 hours. The method is suitable for beginners and is considered one of the simplest.
Despite the complexity of the title, the work is performed using a simple method:
As a result, when closing, the pipe will spring back and close the gap between the jamb and the canvas.
Moreover, even if it becomes distorted or dries out, the soft tube will not stop closing the cracks. The only negative is that the door leaf must be sealed or it will have to be additionally insulated with a frame or simply covered with foil insulation.
A thermal curtain is one of the proven and most accurate ways to insulate the entrance to a steam room. The work is carried out using the following method:
The structure is ready.
Scheme for insulating a bathhouse door using a thermal curtain. If desired, it can be pushed in and the cold will not penetrate inside the bathhouse. And due to indirect contact with the wooden panel, the door will last longer.
If natural felt is used, then the door can simply be covered. The work is carried out in the following stages:
The result will be a structure with a beautiful appearance and felt rollers along the edges. The door will be warm and durable.
Any of the listed methods is suitable for do-it-yourself insulation. And there will be no questions about how to insulate a door in a bathhouse, and the video will tell you in more detail how to insulate a door with basalt wool:
Modern entrance structures are sold with insulation inside, so you only need to insulate the gap between the panel and the opening with your own hands. It will be easier to complete the work by watching the thematic video in this article, and the photos will clearly demonstrate all stages of the work.
Doors and windows in the bathhouse should be smaller in size than in ordinary residential premises - this will help retain heat.
Doors are usually single-leaf, opening outwards.
Bathhouse doors can be designed in different ways. One option is a door made of boards. The outside is upholstered with one of the insulating materials, and the outside is covered with drying oil, fiberboard or thin waterproof plywood.
Another option for a bathhouse is a warm and comfortable door made of two wooden frames, the sizes of which are different (the outer frame should easily fit into the inner one). For the purpose of a tight fit, it is very important that the outer frame strictly corresponds to the dimensions of the door jamb.
Its edges should be slightly beveled. Both one and the second frame are sheathed on both sides with fiberboard and filled with thermal insulation material. After this, the inner frame is inserted into the outer one and secured to it with screws.
In the washing room it is allowed to install a steam- and moisture-resistant door from one frame. Fiberglass sheets are fixed to this door on both sides. The space that remains between the sheets is filled with some kind of lightweight thermal insulation material.
Door locks are usually made from above and below. For safety reasons (so as not to get burned), the upper lock is made of wood. At the bottom, you can simply use a metal hook.
Door handles are also made of wood. Such handles can be made from any available material, even from interesting twigs and roots found in the forest. Before installing handles on doors, they are treated with a protective compound.
In a bathhouse, the windows should look like horizontally elongated rectangles, since it is this shape that allows for the best retention of heat in the room. Windows can be located both in walls and in doors. Depending on the opening method, the window may have a different area.
As a rule, its area is from 5% to 7% of the floor area of the room. The window should be positioned in such a way that you can look out of it while lying down, sitting in the steam room, or standing in the washing room.
Regardless of whether the windows have double or single frames, they must have double sealed glazing (if the frame is single, then the glass is attached to both sides). Of course, making a window in such a window will be quite problematic, but it will greatly facilitate the process of ventilating the bathhouse.
If your bathhouse is built of brick, then the windows in it can be made of glass blocks. Thanks to them, soft diffused lighting will be created. In addition, such windows do not require curtains, and they are more durable and hygienic than conventional windows.
To install artificial lighting in a bathhouse, it is customary to use anti-fog sealed lampshades of milky or yellow color.
In order to ensure good ventilation, it is necessary to provide an vent above the top shelf. An vent is a small round or rectangular hole in the wall.
This window is closed with a removable plug made of chock with a handle upholstered in soft material. The vent can also be closed with a sliding wooden flap.
In addition, to ensure good ventilation, an inlet opening is made near the stove (at a height of about 25 cm from the floor) or in the lower compartment of the door. This hole must also be closed with a valve or flap.
The next stage of the internal arrangement of the bathhouse is the manufacture of shelves for the steam room. If the bathhouse is quite spacious, then there may be two or three shelves. The top shelf is made the widest, i.e. It is customary to steam on it while lying down. The lower shelves may be a little narrower. The shelves are placed one above the other or in the letter “G”. The second option is more appropriate in those baths where the steam room is combined with a sink.
So that you can comfortably steam while sitting on the top shelf, the distance from the ceiling to it should be 115 cm - 120 cm. The distance between the middle and top shelves should be 40 cm. The lowest shelf is usually made at a height of 25 cm from the floor. In addition, it is very important to take into account that the top shelf is located 50 cm - 10 cm above the top level of the stove stones.
The highest quality shelves are made from aspen, poplar or linden boards - such shelves do not contain resins, dry quickly and are pleasant to the body.
The basis of the design of the shelves is a frame made of beams (beams made of coniferous wood). The boards are fastened across the frame, leaving a small gap between them. The boards are secured with stainless steel screws. To prevent the screw heads from burning the body, they must be inserted into the boards from the side of the beams.
For greater comfort, the middle and upper shelves can be made removable, located on stationary supports. The lower shelf can be made in the form of a portable bench.
It must be remembered that all elements of this equipment (even the smallest ones) must have bulges or a slight slope that allows water to flow out unhindered.
In the interior design of a bathhouse, every little detail is important that can bring additional comfort to the steaming procedure. Wooden footrests, shelves, floor grates, headrests and other elements - all these elements will help you more fully experience the beauty of the bathhouse.
Wooden surfaces inside the bathhouse should not be coated with varnish or paint, otherwise the wood will instantly lose its pleasant natural appearance and warmth.
Beams and rafters must be pre-treated with special protective impregnations, since these structures will be constantly exposed to humidity and high temperatures. The ceiling itself needs to be insulated:
The main criterion for insulation is its fire safety, as well as its resistance to rotting processes.
Before you begin to line the ceiling with clapboard, it is necessary to line the space between the ceiling and the roof with a vapor barrier material. It can be used either as a special material or simply as plastic film.
After the arrangement of the bathhouse is completed, it is necessary to carry out a test fire. Thanks to this, all existing (if any) shortcomings of the work will be identified. Having corrected the detected shortcomings, you can safely begin taking long-awaited bath procedures.
Many, tired of the bustle of the city, try to find an “outlet” for themselves in a private house or on a country plot and often decide to build a bathhouse. In this case, it often happens that we do not know how to correctly carry out all the stages of its construction and, in particular, how to make a door for a bathhouse with our own hands.
In this article we will tell you how you can make such a structure with your own hands, what dimensions it should have and much more.
The bathhouse must have at least 2 doors installed - the entrance and the one that will lead to the steam room.
The door to the steam room has its own specifics:
Whatever kind of sauna you plan to build, do-it-yourself sauna doors must first of all reliably retain heat and steam in it, and only then serve as an interior item for the building. In this regard, bath doors should be wooden and solid and preferably made using old Russian technology ().
Advice! If your bathhouse will be heated “on white”, then it is recommended to install a door with one leaf. If you prefer a smoky bath, then the door should have two leaves.
When making a door to a steam room with your own hands, pay attention to its size.
In order to retain heat better, it will need to be made several sizes smaller than for a living space:
In the steam room, it is advisable to install single-leaf structures that open outward. The gap from the door to the floor should not exceed 5 cm.
For a steam room, it is advisable to make the door from linden, alder or aspen. You can also use coniferous wood, but then you will need to treat their surface so that the resin does not release.
Necessary materials for the manufacture of such a design:
The door leaf for the bathhouse is made in a certain sequence.
We will now tell you how to make a bathhouse door with your own hands:
Note! The spike should be a little larger so that later when planting it can be added to the harness.
Assembling a bath door involves installing a frame around the door leaf.
For this:
Note! Gaps between the groove and the tenon are not allowed.
The side of the door that will be exposed to steam should be protected with a vapor barrier material, on top of which you can then sheathe the structure with thin boards. A structure that will not be affected by moisture can also be made from a frame, which will need to be sheathed on both sides with special sheets of fiberglass.
The space between them will need to be filled with foam plastic or mineral wool.
The main factor when installing a door to a steam room is the arrangement of the threshold. Ideally, its height should not exceed 15 cm. As for the structure that will separate the steam room from the washing room, in this case it is not necessary to create a threshold.
It is customary to leave a small gap between the floor and the door in the lower part for the passage of cold air into the steam room. The height of such a gap should not be more than 5 cm.
The entrance door to the bathhouse is mounted with your own hands using a frame, using ridges on the logs and grooves in the casing to eliminate the possibility of deformation of the structure during shrinkage of our structure. We will make the box for the opening from square or rectangular thick beams. It will need to be installed in the opening using the ridge method.
In the walls of our building, on the lower horizontal log, make nests and cut out ridges. You will subsequently insert bars with pre-selected spikes into them. Place a massive log at the bottom of the doorway to later use as a threshold.
If your bathhouse was built from brick, then you should make the frames for the doorway more massive. For these purposes, take boards 6 cm thick and 10 cm wide.
The depth of the quarters, which are selected from the blank, must correspond to the dimensions of the bath structures. Their average width should not exceed 3 cm. The connection must be made using spikes.
The box must be assembled and installed according to this principle so that the bath door can open outward. Level the box and secure it to the wall. When adjusting the structure, if possible, make sure that the box fits as closely as possible to the jambs and threshold.
Now you know that you can not only build a bathhouse yourself, but also make a door in it so that it can maximize heat retention in a given room. All you may need to implement your plan is a little patience, attentiveness and a little free time, and at the end of the work you will receive an ideal product that will help you extend the service life of the structure you have built several times (
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