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Garden rose is one of the most difficult crops to grow. The plant has a number of biological characteristics, so any violation of agricultural practices can lead to irreversible consequences.
One of them is the degeneration of a cultivated plant into a rose hip, the process of which can be stopped if detected in a timely manner. In this article we will look at why a rose turns into a rosehip, how to understand that degeneration has begun, and what steps can be taken to prevent degeneration.
The similarity of young seedlings of two crops causes errors during acquisition, reproduction or at the beginning of degeneration.
There are three main signs by which the type of plant can be determined:
In some cases, it can be difficult to distinguish two types of plants based on these characteristics. Climbing roses also have 7 leaves, and some varieties are distinguished by small and frequent thorns. Therefore, the main feature can be considered the color of young shoots. Knowing the varietal characteristics of a plant will help to avoid many problems, so when purchasing a seedling you need to get detailed advice.
It is difficult to determine the type of plant only until the period of flowering and lignification of the shoots. After the formation of buds and the appearance of fruits on the rosehip, the difference becomes obvious.
Despite the fact that the method itself is characterized by relative simplicity and high survival rates, there is always a risk of degeneration into a wild form for a grafted plant.
The reason for this may lie in the illiteracy of the gardener and the dishonesty of producers of planting material. This is the acquisition of a seedling that still has rose hip buds below the grafting site. After planting, rosehip shoots will grow from the remaining buds, which will take nutrients. Cultural shoots, without receiving proper nutrition, will soon die or stop developing.
A common cause of degeneration is wrong selection rootstock Some types of rose hips are distinguished by aggressive growth and are capable of forming shoots from roots that quickly suppress the growth of cultivated shoots.
Improper planting of a seedling without deepening the grafting site leads to a rapid weakening of the scion, the place of which will quickly be taken by shoots of more hardy rose hips. The reason may also be a violation of agricultural technology: lack of hilling or shelter for the winter.
Lack of necessary fertilizing, damage by pests, fungal or viral diseases can lead to the death of the rose, and next year a rose hip will sprout in its place.
The transformation of a rose into a rosehip often occurs unnoticed and can last a long time. Therefore, when planting a grafted plant, you need to take a closer look at external signs. It is much easier to correct the situation in the early stages of the process.
Deepening the rootstock by 7-10 cm when planting a seedling significantly reduces the risk of the formation of rose hips. In some cases, this area may be exposed after watering or rain, so hilling will be required. Subsequently, the scion site must be carefully protected; any damage may disrupt the nutrition of the grafted rose.
Of course, all vegetables and fruits carry at least some benefit for our body. The only difference is that some are smaller and others are larger. How is the size of utility determined? One of the most, perhaps even the most important indicator is the content of vitamin C in the product, or, as people say, ascorbic acid (ascorbic acid). And the record holder for this indicator is the well-known wrinkled rose hip (Rosa rugosa).
Ascorbic acid in the fruits of this miracle product is more than a hundred times more than in lemon, and ten times more than in wild garlic. Not every variety of rose hips has this indicator, or rather, such an indicator is found only in two varieties of rose hips: wrinkled and cinnamon.
Most often, on the shelves of our stores and markets there is a completely different variety of rosehip, which is called “dog”. The fruits of this plant are small, and there is practically no vitamin C in them.
This rosehip is practically impossible, except perhaps because of the size of the fruit (but these varieties also have small fruits) and the bracts that are pressed to the fruit (in other species they stand upright) and which are carefully broken off by unscrupulous sellers before going on sale. To provide yourself with a vitamin product, you need to purchase it from trusted sellers or, even better, grow it yourself in your summer cottage.
This plant is very unpretentious. The variety “Rosa Rugosa” is ideal for such purposes. It has large fruits, the diameter of which sometimes reaches three centimeters, and they are suitable not only for drying, but also for making marshmallows, jam or preserves.
Also, wrinkled rosehip has the so-called remontant property, that is, it bears fruit and blooms until autumn, constantly. Thanks to this property, wrinkled rosehip is also very good for decorative purposes, blooms all summer, and is simply ideal as a hedge.
The valuable raw materials of this shrub are not only the fruits themselves. The benefits come from the fragrant petals, which can also be stored for future use.
The fruits and petals can be dried and enjoyed as hot, aromatic and healthy tea all winter. You can also make jam from them. There is a detailed article about this.
The productivity of this variety is simply amazing. From one square meter you can collect 2-25 kg of fruits and up to 0.5 kg of petals.
You can collect petals all summer. With a small frequency of two to three days. This is exactly the period a blooming flower lives.
Fruits from the beginning of August to the very end of October - as the berries ripen. You should not delay this matter too much; in overripe fruits (usually they have a bright red color and too soft pulp) the content of vitamin substances is significantly reduced.
It is best to dry berries from the bush in the oven with the door slightly open at 60 -80 degrees. You can also use an electric fruit dryer.
History has not preserved the name of the first gardener who managed to get everyone’s favorite rose from a wild rose hip. Beginners purchasing plant seedlings are often faced with the question of how to distinguish a rose from a rose hip. Let's try to figure it out together.
Since both crops belong to the same Rosaceae family, roses are often considered a cultivated form of rose hips. Although both plants are similar in appearance, if rosehip is used in landscaping parks and garden areas, then rose is the recognized queen of flowers.
Roses are the result of selection by scientists from around the world. Today it is known that they may differ in the structure of the inflorescences and the color of the petals. This was achieved using the successful method of repeated crossing. Some species of this plant are forms of wild rose hips.
Inexperienced gardeners confuse these two plants because they have external as well as genetic similarities. But, for example, after rose hips bloom, it is possible to obtain fruits that contain a lot of vitamin C.
From this video you will learn how to distinguish a rose from a rose hip in the garden.
It is possible to distinguish one plant from another by the shape and size of the flowers. Rose hips always have no more than 5 petals, while roses have much more. There are also terry varieties rose hips, having small flowers with a pronounced core.
What distinguishes a rose from a rose hip, in addition to the first sign, is the presence of fruits. They usually form in place of flowers and are endowed with a rich red-orange color. This happens in late summer and autumn. The fruits usually have an oval or round shape. There are inside them.
The fruits of wild varieties are dark red in color, while in cultivated varieties the color varies from orange to blue-black. In this case, the pink petals simply fall off at the end of flowering without forming berries.
The shoots of roses are red at first, and become green a little later, in the process of active growth. The second plant's shoots are immediately colored standard green.
It is also possible to distinguish a rose from its leaves. A rosehip branch usually has up to 7 leaves, while a rosehip branch grows no more than 3–5. If the first plant has small foliage, light in color and with a non-shiny surface, then the second plant has hard and dark green foliage.
In addition to the leaf, both cultures differ in the number of thorns. If in roses they are large in size and located far from each other, then in the representative of rose hips they are everywhere. This becomes a problem for the gardener when collecting beautiful and healthy berries. There are thorns even on the surface of the foliage.
It is important to understand which plant seedling you are purchasing. You need to ask whether it is rooted or grafted. If it was carried out on a rose hip variety, the seedling will have a characteristic thickening.
Rose hips are beautiful garden shrubs And bright decoration garden in summer and autumn. In the summer, the rose hips are covered with fragrant silk flowers, and in the fall - with bright rose hips, which stay on some varieties of rose hips all winter!
Wild roses are called wild roses, although it would be more correct to call them species roses. Both cultivated roses and “wild” rose hips belong to the same genus - rose (Rosa). Species rose hips are distinguished by massive flowering, although their flowers are relatively small in size and are not always highly decorative. Despite this, many rose hips are unusually beautiful, and are also less demanding and difficult to care for than cultivated ones: tea roses, floribundas or English roses (Ostinkas).
After mass flowering, rose hips are literally hung with many bright fruits of red, orange or brown. Creating a charming spectacle in autumn and winter garden, not all rose hips, however, are equivalent in their beneficial properties.
4 best roses for collecting rose hips
The rugose rose hip (Rosa rugosa) is widespread throughout Europe and America. The fruits of rose hips, Rosa rugosa and its numerous ornamental hybrids, are rich in vitamin C and sugars, are easy to process and have a wonderful sour taste. The wrinkled rose grows strongly and gives basal shoots, which is easy to propagate. The wrinkled rose is decorative, has fragrant pink or white (Alba form) simple, semi-double or double flowers. The fruits of rugosa rose hips are bright, large, soft, first orange and then dark red.
Rosehip rugosa, rugosa rose (Rosa rugosa) in my garden. Flowers Rosehip rugosa, rugosa rose (Rosa rugosa) in my garden. Fruit
Cinnamon rose hip (May) (Rosa cinnamomea, Rosa majalis) and its varieties are considered the most valuable in terms of vitamin C content. Cinnamon rose hip is common in middle lane Russia, as well as in northern and central Europe. The fruits are large, round, red.
Dog rose, dog rose (Rosa canina). Dog rose hips have many beneficial properties. The berries are very large, round or oval.
Forest rose and others American species rose hips (Rosa woodsii var. ultramontana, gymnocarpa, californica, spithamea). During World War II, hundreds of acres in the United States were planted with these prized rose hips as part of the Victory Gardens program, with almost all of the harvest shipped to war-torn Europe. Now these rose hips have naturalized and taken over vast areas, turning into natural undergrowth.
Climbing rose "Francis E. Lester", rose hips Climbing rose "Francis E. Lester", rose hips
The best rose hips for garden decoration
Species of rose hips and their varieties:
Common rose (Rosa officinalis)
Large leaf rose (Rosa macrophylla)
Gray rose, rose glauca (Rosa rubrifolia, Rosa glauca)
Crimean rose, French rose (Rosa gallica) and mundi rose (Rosa mundi)
Rosa Wichurana, especially its hybrids Alberic Barbier and Ethel
Musk rose (Rosa moschata), especially varieties: Buff Beauty, Felicia, Penelope, Ballerina.
Rosehip red-brown, rose eglanteria (Rosa rubiginosa, Sweet briar, Eglantine Rose, Rosa eglanteria)
From the seeds of musk rose and red-brown rose, it is obtained by pressing healthy oil rosehip.
Chinese roses. Dog-rose fruit Chinese roses large, bright red, many shaped like pins. Chinese rose hips are highly frost-resistant:
Rose moesii (Rosa moyesii), especially the Geranium variety
Rosa sweginzowii
Rosa Mulliganii, Rosa longicupis
Rosa filipes, especially the variety Kiftsgate
Forest rose (Rosa forrestiana)
Rosa setipoda
Golden rose (Rosa xanthina)
Cherokee rose (Rosa laevigata)
Hybrid rose Old Blush
Climbing and bush roses and rose hips with beautiful fruits:
Francis E. Lester
Lyda Rose
Kew Rambler
Pleine de Grace
Rambling Rector
Scintillation
Dortmund
Purple Floorshow
Scharlachglut
Crimean rose (French rose hip) (Rosa mundi) in my garden. FlowersClimbing rose "Scharlachglut", rose hips
When to collect rose hips
Over time, the amount of vitamin C in rose hips decreases, and the amount of sugars increases. The stage of maturity of rose hips can be judged by their appearance: Berries richer in vitamin C are lighter in color, while riper ones rich in sugars are darker. Frosts or the first autumn frosts especially contribute to changes in the composition of rose hips. If you want to get healthier rose hips, then do not delay harvesting and remove the rose hips as they ripen.
Caring for rose hips is somewhat simpler than caring for cultivated roses. Rose hips are less affected by fungi and diseases, do not require the removal of faded flowers and need pruning only once a season. In the middle zone and other cold regions, many rose hips do not need winter shelters. All this significantly saves time on caring for rose hips.
Before the start of the new season, before the rose hips begin to grow, cut the branches to the desired height. The growth of rose hips over a season differs in different climatic zones. So, I prune my wrinkled rose every winter at the root, and by August the bush already reaches two meters. My rose mundi does not grow very actively, so I just shorten it by 15-20 cm each season. When growing rose hips as a climbing rose, prune accordingly.
Rosehip is a useful berry and garden decoration. Rosehip is wrinkled, rose is wrinkled (Rosa rugosa). Seeds
At the beginning of the season, as part of the spring treatment of roses, feed the rose hips and mulch them with a generous layer of rotted horse manure or other organics. Treatment with antifungicides (antifungal drugs), if you carry it out, should be done only at the very beginning of the season, before the rose hips begin to grow, if you plan to use the rose hips for food or for treatment.
Species rose hips reproduce well by root shoots, air layering and seeds. Collect fully ripe berries that have not yet begun to shrivel and bury them in pots with moist soil. Leave outside over the winter to provide the low temperature exposure necessary for successful seed germination. After the end of frost, dig up the rose hips, separate the seeds and test them for germination in a bowl of water. Sow the sunken rosehip seeds in boxes and grow them in a cold greenhouse.
Rosehip in garden design
Bright rose hips decorate the garden until late autumn, and some varieties until the end of winter! Rosehip attracts birds - the gardener's assistants, giving them tasty winter food. Therefore, species roses and rose hips are necessarily present in natural gardens. Rosehip branches with ripe fruits look great in autumn decorative compositions and crafts.
So, how to distinguish a rose and a rose hip? Rose is a cultivated form of plants of the Rosehip genus. Most plant varieties and hybrids were obtained as a result of breeding work, and some were obtained through selection from wild rose hips. Therefore, rose hips and roses have genetic and external similarities.
Rose can be propagated different ways: cuttings or from other vegetative material. However, not all self-rooted plants are able to take root and withstand the harsh winters of the middle and northern regions for the crop.
Rosehip is an unpretentious plant with powerful tap roots, adapted to different soil conditions and prolonged drought. The crop has high levels of winter hardiness, thanks to which it develops calmly even in the harshest conditions. Therefore, the plant is often used as a rootstock for roses in nurseries and private gardening.
In order to reduce the risk of a problem, it is important to approach the purchase of seedlings responsibly. It is better to purchase planting material from reputable nurseries or garden centers, where you can additionally get advice on agricultural technology.
It is necessary to inspect the seedling, make sure that there are no buds under the graft, and evaluate the shoots and leaves for their distinctive features.
At the first signs of rose degeneration, you need to take quick action:
This is not a permanent solution to the problem. The procedure will have to be carried out 2-3 times during the growing season. In the spring of next year, re-formation of shoots is possible, so such measures may be necessary throughout the life of the rose. The growth may appear at a distance of a meter from the trunk of the plant; this also needs to be removed.
If the rose variety is relatively winter-hardy, you can transfer it to its own roots. It is important to know that such bushes reach maximum decorative value in 3-4 years. The procedure is carried out in the spring after the soil has warmed up. To do this, a trench is dug from the trunk, into which the shoot is placed and secured with wire pins.
The rose shoot is sprinkled with loose and nutritious soil, leaving the top outside in a vertical position. To do this, it is tied to a peg. In the spring of next year, the rooted plant is separated and transplanted to a new location.
To prevent the degeneration of a cultivated plant into a wild form, you need to follow a number of care rules, especially if the rose is prone to this. This is additional nutrition and protection from exposure negative factors.
The first feeding of roses is carried out in the second ten days of April. For this they use nitrogen fertilizers: ammonium nitrate or urea. For this, 1 tbsp. l. the drug is diluted in 10 liters warm water. The norm for one bush is 1 liter. The second feeding is done in June, during the period of bud formation. For this purpose, solutions from organic fertilizers: mullein (1:10) or chicken droppings (1:20).
After flowering is completed, the plant is fed with a mineral complex with equal contents of phosphorus, potassium and nitrogen. The final fertilizer is carried out in September, for this purpose potassium magnesium is used (20 g).
Water the rose with settled or rainwater. The procedure is carried out twice a week in hot weather. Consumption per bush 10 l. On cloudy days, they focus on the condition of the soil, avoiding excessive drying. During each watering, you need to inspect the grafting site; it should not be exposed.
In early spring and after flowering, preventive treatment against diseases and pests is carried out. D For this purpose, universal preparations of fungicidal and insecticidal action are used. Mulching the tree trunk with peat or compost will suppress growth weeds, regulate the moisture balance in the soil, feeding the roots useful substances.
Before winter, the rose bush needs to be thoroughly covered.
This event is held in the third ten days of October. Before this, all weak and damaged shoots are completely removed. Healthy stems are shortened by 1/3. The roots are buried to a depth of 20 cm, and the trunk circle is covered with sawdust and spruce branches. To prevent overheating in the spring, after warming, the covering materials are removed and sanitary pruning is carried out.
The basis for the emergence of a certain problem in any crop is the illiteracy of the gardener or violation of the plant’s agricultural practices. When mastering a new plant, first of all you need to study all its biological features, evaluate your strength, time and capabilities. Careful and competent care can work wonders, even when growing such a capricious plant as a rose. It depends only on you whether the rose will be reborn into a rose hip or not.
Features of climbing roses characteristic only of this group
During the period of growth and flowering, it is not difficult to distinguish climbing roses from other relatives.
During the growing season, climbing roses are easiest to recognize. But what to do if the seedling has only a couple of small shoots without leaves, and those are pruned? Then you can rely only on the color of the shoots. In most young bushes they grow red. By this sign you can accurately determine that this is not a rosehip. Its new branches immediately acquire a light green color (Read also article ⇒ The best varieties permanently blooming climbing roses).
When choosing a climbing rose, you cannot rely only on the color of the fresh growth. The same may be true for another variety of roses, for example, a bush one. But there is a sign that in most cases will be the decisive factor in distinguishing the climbing rose from other groups. This is a method of vaccination.
The most common method to obtain a bush rose of the same variety is to graft it. Most growers propagate bush roses:
At the bush roses such a “growth” is located in the root collar. It is into this part of the plant that the bud is grafted during budding. To prevent the variety from degenerating, the graft should always be in the ground when planting, especially in winter. This is one of the reasons why bush roses spud in the cold season.
climbing roses They are rarely propagated by grafting, because they root perfectly by cuttings and horizontal layering. That's why they are called rooted. Their distinctive feature is the absence of a fusion of two parts of different plants, like grafted roses (Read also the article ⇒ Climbing roses: propagation, planting and care).
Lack of bush roses is that they can turn into rose hips if the rootstock “wins.” Cuttings are guaranteed to retain the variety for the rest of my life. This is their advantage.
Therefore, when purchasing a climbing rose, most likely you will not find traces of grafting. Although there are exceptions to the rule, some long-growing hybrids are sometimes propagated "by operation" if its breeding origin requires it.
Still, the most common way to get a new climbing rose is to take cuttings from it or bury a shoot. This is a complete guarantee to preserve the variety and not confuse it with another type of rose.
Standard roses easiest to determine. They are sold formed into one stem with several branches. On each one the grafting site is clearly visible.
Climbing rose seedling has several shoots, even if they are small.
The stem (stem shoot) is always one. It is created over several years from bush rose hips, cutting off all unnecessary branches. The dog rose (Rosa canina) is most often used for this purpose. It takes 2-3 years until the variety can be grafted onto a standard.
Any variety can serve as a scion, from any group of roses, compatible with dog rose, in including climbing rose. As a result, varietal shoots do not grow from the ground, but form the crown of an artificially created tree.
Thus, the rose becomes both standard and climbing. As a rule, varieties with long shoots are grafted onto tall trunks, in which the crown begins at least 1.5 m.
These roses are the most difficult to care for. In winter, you need to cover the graft, which is located quite high. That is why in the fall the trunk is tilted so that old, stiff bushes have to be dug up. Without this you won't be able to put them down.
When planning to purchase a rose, it is better to observe them while hiding. At nurseries, boles are wrapped first, and then all other types of roses.
Spring gives the gardener a better chance not to confuse a varietal rose with a “wild” one when the overwintered seedling begins to grow.
Sometimes at the nursery you can see such a picture. Thin, green shoots appear from the ground next to the dense reddish shoots. This means that the rootstock, that is, the rosehip on which the variety is grafted, has become active. This phenomenon is more typical for grafted bush roses than for climbing roses. This is another distinguishing feature between different types.
In any case, if such a situation arises, you need to get rid of the shoots. Otherwise, the rosehip will suppress the graft, and the variety will degenerate.
You need to watch standard roses even more vigilantly; they may develop not only root growth, but also shoots on the stem. They must be disposed of ruthlessly. Otherwise, years of painstaking work will be in vain.
But this property of rose hips will never manifest itself on self-rooted climbing roses.
Source: rosegardening.org
To prevent the degeneration of a cultivated plant into a wild form, you need to follow a number of care rules, especially if the rose is prone to this. This is additional nutrition and protection from the effects of negative factors.
The first feeding of roses is carried out in the second ten days of April. For this purpose, nitrogen fertilizers are used: ammonium nitrate or urea. For this, 1 tbsp. l. The drug is diluted in 10 liters of warm water. The norm for one bush is 1 liter. The second feeding is done in June, during the period of bud formation. To do this, use solutions of organic fertilizers: mullein (1:10) or chicken manure (1:20).
After flowering is completed, the plant is fed with a mineral complex with equal contents of phosphorus, potassium and nitrogen. The final fertilizer is carried out in September, for this purpose potassium magnesium is used (20 g).
Water the rose with settled or rainwater. The procedure is carried out twice a week in hot weather. Consumption per bush 10 l. On cloudy days, they focus on the condition of the soil, avoiding excessive drying. During each watering, you need to inspect the grafting site; it should not be exposed.
In early spring and after flowering, preventive treatment against diseases and pests is carried out. D For this purpose, universal preparations of fungicidal and insecticidal action are used. Mulching the tree trunk circle with peat or compost will suppress the growth of weeds, regulate the moisture balance in the soil, feeding the roots with useful substances.
This event is held in the third ten days of October. Before this, all weak and damaged shoots are completely removed. Healthy stems are shortened by 1/3. The roots are buried to a depth of 20 cm, and the trunk circle is covered with sawdust and spruce branches. To prevent overheating in the spring, after warming, the covering materials are removed and sanitary pruning is carried out.
The basis for the emergence of a certain problem in any crop is the illiteracy of the gardener or violation of the plant’s agricultural practices. When mastering a new plant, first of all you need to study all its biological features, evaluate your strength, time and capabilities. Careful and competent care can work wonders, even when growing such a capricious plant as a rose. It depends only on you whether the rose will be reborn into a rose hip or not.
Since both crops belong to the same Rosaceae family, roses are often considered a cultivated form of rose hips. Although both plants are similar in appearance, if rosehip is used in landscaping parks and garden areas, then rose is the recognized queen of flowers.
Roses are the result of selection by scientists from around the world. Today there are many varieties known, which may differ in the structure of the inflorescences and the color of the petals. This was achieved using the successful method of repeated crossing. Some species of this plant are forms of wild rose hips.
Inexperienced gardeners confuse these two plants because they have external as well as genetic similarities. But, for example, after rose hips bloom, it is possible to obtain fruits that contain a lot of vitamin C.
From this video you will learn how to distinguish a rose from a rose hip in the garden.
It is possible to distinguish one plant from another by the shape and size of the flowers. Rose hips always have no more than 5 petals, while roses have much more. There are also double varieties of rose hips, which have small-sized flowers with a pronounced core.
What distinguishes a rose from a rose hip, in addition to the first sign, is the presence of fruits. They usually form in place of flowers and are endowed with a rich red-orange color. This happens in late summer and autumn. The fruits usually have an oval or round shape. They have seeds inside.
The shoots of roses are red at first, and become green a little later, in the process of active growth. The second plant's shoots are immediately colored standard green.
It is also possible to distinguish a rose from a rose hip by its leaves. A rosehip branch usually has up to 7 leaves, while a rosehip branch grows no more than 3–5. If the first plant has small foliage, light in color and with a non-shiny surface, then the second plant has hard and dark green foliage.
In addition to the leaf, both cultures differ in the number of thorns. If in roses they are large in size and located far from each other, then in the representative of rose hips they are everywhere. This becomes a problem for the gardener when collecting beautiful and healthy berries. There are thorns even on the surface of the foliage.
It is important to understand which plant seedling you are purchasing. You need to ask whether it is rooted or grafted. If grafting was carried out on a rose hip variety, the seedling will have a characteristic thickening.
Sometimes, having bought and planted a rose on your plot, you may be faced with the fact that what grows in the end is not at all what the seller promised. It’s clear that all roses are beautiful, but I still want to know the specific variety of the one that grew. It should immediately be noted that accurately determining the variety is a practically insoluble problem even for very experienced gardener– too much variety. But it is quite possible to determine the species to which a rose belongs. First of all, determining the type of flower affects the choice of pruning method.
Important! To independently determine the type of roses, you will first have to familiarize yourself with their classification, study characteristic features different types and forms.
The process consists of two stages. The first is to find out as much information as possible from the following list:
The second stage is to correlate the answers received with the description below of the types of roses and their classification.
This is a conditional grouping of roses based on characteristic garden characteristics. Modern classification adopted in 1976 by the World Federation of Rose Societies. Latest version published in 2000.
The vast majority of rose varieties morphological characteristics cannot be attributed to any one natural look plants. That is why the basis of classification is not origin, but decorative and biological characteristics.
For your information! The classification is very conditional. Even varieties belonging to the same type can differ greatly in biological characteristics.
According to the shape of the inflorescences, all types of roses are divided into:
According to the growth pattern, roses can be divided into three categories:
The variety of varieties is divided into several types:
Reference! Park, border and shrub species may include roses from any other category.
Each type of rose has its own unique features.
The most numerous species. They grow from 60 cm to 1 meter in height. The bushes are slightly spreading, the branches are straight. They have very high quality colors. The main characteristic is the pointed shape of the inflorescences. Flowers are double and densely double. They look very impressive as a standard plant.
Roses from a famous English breeder. Tall, have a very large, wide flower. Distinctive feature- the strongest aroma. The number of varieties of this group is already more than 200. However, officially, they have not yet been identified as a separate species. They have incredible demand in the flower market.
This is the name for roses with long shoots that entwine the support. They decorate arches, canopies, and pergolas. There are two types - creeping and climbing. The former bloom once a year and require annual pruning. The latter have several waves of flowering per season. No pruning needed.
Dense, small bushes up to 40 cm tall. Small flowers collected in large inflorescences - up to 100 roses in one. They have almost no smell, but they bloom continuously from late spring to late autumn. They tolerate frost well. In greenhouses and room conditions forcing is possible.
These include ancient varieties that can survive harsh winters in open ground. A bush one and a half meters high. They bloom in early summer for about a month. The flowers look like rose hips. Their color varies from white to purple. Sometimes it is orange. Used in group plantings and hedges. The wrinkled rose also belongs to this species.
This is a new group. Roses of this type are easily recognizable: the branches grow mainly to the sides, sometimes up to 4 m. The height is no more than 50 cm. The flowering is long-lasting. They have shiny leaves. They grow in a continuous carpet. Some varieties of this type bloom once, others 2 times. Serve as an excellent decoration for any site. They don’t get sick and aren’t afraid of frost.
They are not a separate species. These are roses grown using special techniques. A cultivated rose is grafted onto a single, long rosehip shoot. It can be of any variety and type. It turns out a pink tree in the form of a huge bouquet. Counts the best decoration garden
This species was recently bred by breeders. The height of the bush is from 15 to 25 cm. The stems are densely covered with small, shiny leaves. They can be with or without spikes. The flowers are very small, of different colors. They bloom singly or in inflorescences until the first frost. Grown in borders or in containers. Growing in an apartment is allowed. The species tolerates frost well and does not get sick. It is weakly affected by pests.
Low-growing shrubs up to 70 cm high. They quickly take root in a new place. They bloom long and profusely. They differ from ordinary roses in their double flowers with fancy edges and unusual shape. Can be grown in apartments.
Large bushes up to 2 meters high. They can be either upright or semi-climbing. Less capricious than tea varieties. Pruning is not difficult even for beginners. They require shelter for the winter. Flowering is long and abundant. They are used in both vertical and horizontal gardening.
The method proposed above for determining the type of roses, of course, will require some work, but if you delve deeply into its essence, you can very well become the owner of the key to solving any grown flower.
Rose lovers are familiar with this problem when, instead of a rose bush, after planting in the garden, a rose hip grows. It is very difficult for a non-professional to distinguish both plants from each other, because they belong to the same family. However, it is still possible to identify a substitution if you know what to look for. How to distinguish a rose from a rose hip will be described in detail below.
Rose, like its close relative, belongs to the Rosaceae family. This fact explains why these two different plants are difficult to distinguish from each other, especially at the seedling stage.
Rose is a member of the Rosehip genus. Therefore, it is very often found on this bush. It was obtained through painstaking selection work of scientists from different countries of the world. Today, this flower is represented by a variety of varieties, the flowers of which have both different colors of petals and the structure of the inflorescences. To obtain such a huge variety, the method of repeated crossing was used. Moreover, some species are forms of wild rose hips. Therefore, both plants have genetic and external similarities.
It should be understood that rose is a collective name that contains various representatives of this genus. Therefore, it is not surprising that novice gardeners often confuse these plants. TO general points here should be included:
However, despite certain similarities, both plants also have obvious differences. For example, rosehip, despite its external similarity, differs in that after flowering it forms a fruit that is very rich in vitamin C. In this indicator, it is even superior to citrus fruits.
The main distinguishing characteristic of both crops from other plants is the characteristic structure of the flower. It is bisexual and has a double perianth. The flower calyx has five fused sepals. The flowers themselves can be collected in inflorescences or arranged separately.
To distinguish a rose from its close relative, you need to know what to look for when buying a seedling to grow in the garden.
Most common mistake For beginning flower growers who are planning to grow roses, the best option is to buy seedlings of a different species. The main differences between these two closely related plants include the fact that they form different flowers. The differences here are as follows:
However, when purchasing seedlings, it is not yet possible to evaluate the plants based on flower parameters. Therefore, here it is necessary to be guided by other assessment parameters. First, you should ask the seller whether the bush has been grafted. Grafted plants have a small thickening at the bottom of their shoot, which is the grafting site. Below the thickening, the stem may acquire a different color.
It is worth noting that own-root varieties of roses are not grafted. In this case, you need to rely on other parameters by which the rose differs.
In addition to the above points, rose and rose hips differ in leaves, shoots and thorns. Let's look at these parameters in more detail, since it is they that are always the focus of attention.
You can distinguish one plant from another by its leaves. Roses have dark green leaf blades. At the same time, it has slightly rounded tips, leatheriness and density, as well as a shiny surface. Its leaves are larger. A rose produces 3–5 leaves on a leafy branch, while a relative has 7 of them.
Rosehip leaves are rough and dull. They are usually light olive in color. The leaf blade has a pointed tip. Edges may be uneven. Sometimes the leaves are characterized by pubescence and thorns.
The rose has young shoots of a dark red color. Over time, they turn green and woody. But the shoots of the analogue are always bright green. They also form thinner.
Just based on the differences between the leaves and shoots, you can determine which seedling they are trying to sell you.
Those who are not completely convinced by the leaves and stems should rely on such a parameter as thorns when choosing a seedling. The rose is characterized by rare but rather large thorns. Therefore, they are considered more traumatic, although similar formations in a relative are no less dangerous. At the same time, rosehip shoots are completely covered with short and small thorns. Here thorns can be found not only on the stems, but also on the sepals and petioles. It is because of the abundance of thorns that this plant got its name.
Despite the presence of such obvious differences, a rose still manages to pass itself off as a rose hip and vice versa. This confusion is due to the fact that multifaceted breeding work can smooth out the distinctive characteristics of these plants to a certain extent. And only a true professional can distinguish one culture from another.
When growing roses, remember that improper care may provoke the degeneration of bushes towards ordinary rose hips.
From this video you will learn how to quickly distinguish a rose from a rose hip.
Roses are the favorite flowers of many summer residents. Planting material for breeding, it is most often purchased in specialized nurseries and markets. However, not all lovers know that they are grafting this beautiful flower to a rose hip and that sooner or later this powerful bush will definitely show itself.
Blooming rose bush (Photo used under standard license ©site)
Having discovered a rosehip shoot on a rose, it is necessary to take urgent measures, otherwise it will quickly crush the tender shoots. Because of this, it will be necessary to completely dig up and destroy the entire specimen.
Experts recommend starting to fight rose hips as early as possible. You can determine the owner of the root on which the rose is grafted by the fact that it grows directly from the ground, since the grafting node is located under the soil layer.
Red roses (Photo used under standard license ©site)
To eliminate an unwanted shoot, you need to dig the soil directly under the bush until a grafting site appears. In this case, it will be easy to determine where the rosehip grows from. You need to carefully cut out all the shoots that are below the grafting with a sharp knife or pruning shears.
Everything higher cannot be touched - these are pink shoots.
The main thing that should not be done when removing unwanted rosehip shoots is to leave even small stumps.
New dormant buds will appear on them, which will quickly grow, and then a powerful rose hip bush will appear in place of the rose.
Therefore, in the process of removing excess shoots, there is no need to be afraid to dig deep into the ground. It is important to cut out all the shoots below the graft at the root.
However, in some cases experienced gardeners make an exception to the rule. Certain varieties of roses with small flowers, 7 leaves per branch and small thorns, can be quite decorative, although they look like rose hips. They are undemanding to care, grow quickly and bloom profusely. Mature shoots of these roses are brown in color. And buds and flowers can be of very different shades - it depends on what variety they are.
