In order not to clutter up your summer cottage or house premises with garden tools, you can build a frame shed with your own hands. He will become convenient place for storing various household equipment. It is not very difficult to build such a building, the main thing is to follow the technology.
Construction of a shed begins with determining the location. The shed should not be conspicuous; it is better to place it in the backyard. The approach to this building must be made as free as possible in order to bring in or take out large objects and materials: watering containers, gas-powered tools, etc.
The width of the entrance door is calculated based on the size of the garden wheelbarrow, which may have to be rolled inside the building. It is better to build a barn on a small hill, this will protect the building from melt water, which can wash away the foundation and destroy the entire structure.
Barn on a small hill
You can build an auxiliary structure from any lumber: boards, timber or OSB boards. The foundation can be used of any type - columnar, strip, monolithic or prefabricated.
The barn can be of various shapes - square or rectangular, with pitched roof or ridge type. There are also no special problems with roofing; corrugated sheets, ordinary slate or roofing felt are suitable if finances are limited. Colored colors will help bring the building to life. roofing material. Now on sale you can find both corrugated sheets and slate of various colors and shades.
First you need to draw up a construction plan or diagram, which will help you more accurately calculate the quantity required material. A correctly drawn up building plan will allow you to take into account all the nuances of construction, so that during the work you do not have to purchase additional materials. When purchasing timber and boards, pay attention to their humidity, which should not be more than 22%. Also, the wood cannot have large knots, blue stains, or traces of wood-boring beetles.
To make a frame shed you will need the following structures:
Vertical supports of a frame shed
To create a pitched roof slope, one of two is used possible methods. If the vertical posts of the frame are made of the same length, then on one side of the perimeter of the building they are built up with bars with a cross-section of 50x50 mm, of which 4 pieces are required. According to another method, when installing vertical posts on one side of the building, either higher beams or slightly shorter beams should be installed. When using any option, the roof slope will be ensured.
To make rafters, you will need a board with a cross-section of 50x100 mm in the amount of 4 pieces, each 4 meters long, taking into account the roof overhangs. The lathing is made from a board with a cross-section of 22x100mm, which will require approximately half a cube. The rough ceiling is made from sheets of multilayer plywood, chipboard, fiberboard or OSB boards. The wind board is made of edged lumber with a cross-section of 25x100 mm. 6 boards of 3 meters each will be enough.
Boards with a section of 50x100 mm
The type of fastening depends on the thickness of the beam: the joint into a paw (half a tree) can be fixed with nails. The joint-to-butt connection is made with steel angles and strips. The work will also require self-tapping screws, screws, and L-shaped metal plates for fastening the timber at the corners. The main fastening element will be nails various sizes. They are selected to such a length that when driven into two connecting boards with outside, the tip should extend 1.5–2 cm from the reverse side. This connection will be more reliable.
All wooden elements of the building are treated with an antiseptic, which extends their service life. Best applied protective composition in two layers.
You can't build a shed without a good foundation. A strip foundation will reliably protect the structure from moisture and give it strength. In this case, the floor of the barn will rise relative to the ground level by 40–50 cm.
First, the foundation is marked on the ground, which will require pegs and a durable thin cord. Then a ditch is prepared with a depth of 40–50 cm and a width of about 30 cm. A sand cushion is poured onto the cleared and leveled bottom (it needs to be moistened and compacted a little), and polyethylene is laid on top so that the cement laitance does not absorb into the sand, thereby reducing the strength of the concrete .
Marking the foundation of the shed on the ground
After this, formwork is installed along the edge of the trench, with a height in accordance with the size of the base. In the upper part of the formwork, spacers are installed between its walls so that the boards do not move apart under the weight of the concrete. Next, a reinforcement cage is laid throughout the trench, where the rods are connected to each other with steel wire.
For pouring, grade 200 or 250 cement, crushed stone or pebbles, sand and water are used. Experts recommend pouring the foundation without long breaks in work, so that air voids do not form. It is better not to start work during rain, as concrete mixture will become liquid. Such concrete will take much longer to dry, and its strength may decrease. After 3-4 weeks, you can begin work on the construction of a frame shed.
They begin constructing the basement part when the concrete poured into the formwork gains the necessary strength, after which the formwork is dismantled. First, roofing material is spread on the concrete, which will act as waterproofing. Several rows of red brick are laid along it. Don't forget to re-bandage the seams in the brickwork. In the top row along the entire perimeter of the building in brickwork are laid wooden blocks every one and a half meters, onto which the beam of the lower trim will subsequently be attached.
Pouring the foundation of a barn
When installing the plinth, it is necessary to use a building level, keeping the masonry horizontal. If the horizontality of the basement part is violated, the frame of the shed will skew and build reliable design will not work. Having laid out the basement level and cleaned all the seams from mortar build-up, leave the structure for a couple of days to harden. After this, you can begin installing the frame elements.
First, roofing material is again laid on top of the plinth to protect the timber from moisture. It is better to put two layers of roofing felt and only then proceed with the installation of the lower trim.
For this purpose, timber with a section of 100x100 is used. The joints at the corners need to be made into a “claw”. At each end of the beam, a recess is made equal to half its thickness. The length of the cutout according to the cross-section of the timber will be 100 mm. This way, when connecting, you will get an even angle. If necessary, the junction of two beams can be worked with a chisel. The strapping beam is attached to the embedded wooden parts in the base with nails. Be sure to drive them in obliquely and check that the timber is laid horizontally.
The next stage of building a barn is installing the floor. Here you need boards with a section size of 50x100 mm, which will serve as logs. Place them on the edge, resting on the beam of the lower trim, in increments of 60 cm. Fasten everything with nails suitable size. To make further work more convenient, you can assemble a subfloor from plywood or any old boards. Afterwards, if necessary, they can be dismantled or filled with other material. When the base is ready and you can move on it without the risk of falling, the installation of the vertical elements of the shed frame begins.
Construction of the floor of a frame barn
For vertical racks you also need a beam, the cross-section of which will correspond to the dimensions 100x100 mm. It is attached to the side of the lower harness using L-shaped metal fastenings or nails 150 mm, using an oblique face. The distance between installed racks is at least 1.5 meters. For reliability, they are fixed diagonally with temporarily installed boards with a cross-section of 40x100 mm.
Intermediate vertical posts are additionally secured with jibs so that their verticality is not disturbed. After installing the top trim, they can be removed.
Location of vertical posts for installation door frame depends on where it will be located and on its type. If a single leaf door is selected, there are two ways to attach the supports:
Installation of a frame barn door frame
After measuring, the top strip is nailed to the height of the opening so that it is at the level of the top of the window blocks, for which the seat is prepared in the same way.
To install a pitched roof, one side of the shed must be raised to a slope not exceeding 25°. Then the rafters are installed. The material is boards with a cross section of 50x100 mm, installed on the edge. In a structure with a pitched roof, the rafters are fastened with iron staples or nails, which are driven in using the “sloping face” method.
Installation of a pitched roof for a frame barn
Then the sheathing is installed. It can be sparse or continuous, it all depends on the type of roofing material chosen. For waterproofing, roofing felt or other modern membrane materials are laid, and after that the roofing material is installed.
The frame can be sheathed with any material, but usually corrugated sheets or planed boards are used. You can also use clapboard, but this option will be a little more expensive.
This new development in the field of construction for the rapid construction of utility buildings and auxiliary premises in summer cottages. All parts are packed in compact boxes, so they can be delivered quickly and conveniently to your location.
Advantages of ready-made frame structures:
Ready frame construction plastic shed
In general, the construction of a frame utility block is a simple procedure. It is important to calculate everything in advance and remember that, according to the existing law, it can be built in a place that is located at a distance of no less than 3 meters from the neighboring plot and 5 meters from the extreme line of the road. Everything else is up to you.
The 3x6 shed is one of the most popular formats. I have already published one report on the construction of a 3 by 6 meter shed, now I decided to add another one. This time a barn with a pitched roof.
Let's start with the foundation. Since the site is located on the banks of the Mother Volga (the upper earthen layer, and below it - river sand), decided to pour concrete foundation. I dug eight holes 600x600x600 mm. He mixed the concrete and poured it into the finished holes. I installed reinforcement in the concrete (vertically upward) so that I could then attach the platform for the shed to it.
I made the platform out of brick - laid out the brickwork, measured it level the next day and added it where needed cement mortar so that it is even.
Once dry, I began to assemble the lower frame of the shed.
For this, a board 50x200x6000 mm was used. The vertical posts of the frame are made of 50×100 mm boards. Here is a photo of the finished shed frame:
As for the roof: a 6 by 3 barn required 8 rafters. I took rafters 50x150x5000 mm. Cuts are made on the rafters and fastened to the frame with nails. You can also attach it with metal corners, but it seemed more convenient this way. Here is the diagram for fastening the rafters:
Here's a closer photo of the rafters:
I did not do any lathing, since the roof is galvanized 2500 mm. The roof took 2 sheets of galvanized steel with a slight overlap.
Shed cladding from edged boards 25x150 mm. The overlap is about 2.5cm. Fastened with galvanized nails 90mm. I decided to paint the board right away, before covering it. It seemed easier this way. And when the board dries, the unpainted areas will not be visible.
At the front of the barn, I first tried on the door, then began to plank it.
If anyone is interested, I painted it with Azure paint, impregnation V33. Bought in Leroy, it took about fifteen liters for the shed. I applied 2 layers. The paint seems to be good.
And here are the final photos of the 6 by 3 meter shed:
The construction of the shed took about a week of leisurely work. The barn stood fine over the winter, no problems were found.
Hard to imagine Vacation home or a dacha without outbuildings. Stored in sheds gardening tools, summer swings, hammocks and folding furniture, here you can also house farm animals, poultry, store hay and feed. As a rule, outbuildings are constructed from materials that remain after the construction of the house. The owner can only choose a drawing of the barn, decide on its size and roof structure.
Barn construction
The most optimal size for an outbuilding is 3x6 meters. This area is enough even for the construction summer shower and a toilet inside the building, and you can also arrange a summer kitchen here.
You can make a drawing of a shed using photos found on the Internet, or come up with your own original shed, and then transfer the idea to paper. It is not recommended to build even the simplest buildings without a drawing. After all, all the dimensions and inconsistencies will become visible on paper.
The roofs of barns are most often made pitched. A flat roof retains too much precipitation, snow masses, requires careful waterproofing. Roofs of complex shapes are also inappropriate for sheds, because this building is not intended to decorate the site, but to serve household needs.
The optimal solution for a shed would be a pitched roof. Unlike a gable roof, there is no need to install a ridge; you will need half as many rafters. It is easier to assemble a pitched roof, and precipitation and snow disappear from it very quickly, without threatening the waterproofing.
Important! The angle of inclination of a pitched roof should be greater than 18 degrees. Such a slope will allow precipitation to freely leave the roof and protect the structure from winds and cold.
The optimal value of the pitched roof angle is 18-25 degrees.
The walls of an outbuilding can be erected from absolutely any materials, it can be:
Shed made of foam blocks
If you need to buy materials for building a shed, it is better to opt for foam concrete. Porous blocks have many advantages over other building materials:
Despite the lightness of foam blocks, it is imperative to build a foundation for the shed. Considering the size of the building (3x6) and the weight of the structures, it is better to choose a strip foundation. For resistant, dry soil will do and a columnar base.
A strip foundation for a small outbuilding is poured to a depth of about 40-60 cm, and it is necessary to take into account the depth of soil freezing on the site in winter.
The ground at the site chosen for construction is cleared of debris, roots and vegetation. They mark the perimeter of the barn and dig a trench for the strip foundation.
A “cushion” of sand, crushed stone and gravel is poured into the bottom of the trench and compacted thoroughly. Now you need to secure the formwork for the foundation from old boards, plywood or slate. Metal reinforcement is installed inside the boxes, which should strengthen the foundation.
Concrete is poured. The solution is pierced in several places with a metal pin, ridding the foundation of excess air. Now you need to leave the foundation for several weeks so that the concrete can gain the necessary strength.
Once the concrete has dried, you can begin building the walls. First lay out the bottom belt.
Attention! Blocks or bricks of the bottom row must be placed on a layer of waterproofing. The strip foundation is covered with a layer of roofing felt or coated bitumen mastic so that moisture from the concrete does not reach the walls of the shed.
In accordance with the building drawing, the walls are laid out, making window and door openings. The outbuilding box made of foam blocks is ready.
Wooden barn
Much more often it turns out that the owner has leftover wood, and he decides to build a wood shed. For such work, at least minimal carpentry skills are required, because you will have to work with both a saw and a plane.
A building made of wood weighs very little; a columnar foundation can serve as its base. To do this, markings are made on the site, transferring the perimeter of the future building to the ground.
Posts are installed at the corners of the barn. Several more supports should be located in the center of the rectangle. The distance between the supports is 80-120 cm (depending on the size of the shed and the type of soil on the site).
The depth of the supports depends on the level of soil freezing in the construction region; on average, it is 40-60 cm. After the trenches for the supports are dug or drilled, wooden formwork is installed in them, a sand and gravel “cushion” is filled in, and metal reinforcement is laid.
Now you need to pour the concrete. After 5-6 days, when the foundation has hardened, you can dismantle the formwork and begin building walls.
First, you need to make the bottom frame of the building from timber. Before laying the wood, the foundation supports are covered with a double layer of roofing material. At the corners, the timber is connected with metal brackets and checked for level.
Install vertical supports in the corners of the barn, always checking the level. They are fixed with temporary spacers. Taking into account door and window openings collected from wooden beams the entire frame of the barn.
After assembling the frame, they begin covering the walls. This can be done with boards, moisture-resistant plywood or other sheet material.
Important! The wood must be treated before building a shed. antiseptics to prevent it from rotting. To protect against fire, fire retardants are used, which are also impregnated with beams and boards.
Installation of a barn roof
Assembling a shed roof with your own hands step by step consists of the following steps:
Advice! Sheds with a pitched roof must be inspected after each winter: defects, leaks, and damp wood must be identified and eliminated.
Photos of finished sheds will help you decide on the type of construction and size utility room. But most owners of suburban areas and summer cottages choose small outbuildings, with parameters of 3x6 meters. And the roofs are made pitched; this design is easier to implement, cheaper and performs well in operation.
The first building to appear on the new summer cottage- this is, of course, a barn, large and roomy. At first, until the bare territory of the dacha is “overgrown” with full-fledged outbuildings, a house, summer kitchen and a garage, a simple barn with a pitched roof will for a long time remain the only shelter for equipment, building materials and country property.
Depending on the plans for the future development of the summer cottage, the availability of free time and money, solve the problem of the utility room on suburban area can be done in several ways:
Of course experienced summer residents with experience will not hesitate to cast their votes in favor of last option, this is the most balanced and thoughtful decision.
Advice! To immediately build a shed from foam blocks on a “clean” site is not correct from a planning point of view; often outbuildings of this type have to be demolished or moved in favor of a summer house or garage.
In addition, the construction of stone, prefabricated, panel sheds, as well as the purchase of a container, will require an order of magnitude greater investment and time than is necessary for wooden building with a pitched roof and a simple foundation. The main thing is that, at considerable expense, there are no tangible advantages over a lean-to wooden shed measuring 3x6.
The most difficult element homemade shed is its roof. Choose a pitched roof for your shed, you can’t go wrong. Even experienced craftsmen They prefer to put pitched roofs on barns; they are not so beautiful, but easier to build and more reliable in operation. Moreover, you can make a shed roof with your own hands step by step even with minimal construction experience.
The only one prerequisite is the correct orientation of the shed roof and the entire shed building relative to the wind rose in order to reduce the risk of rainwater flowing under the upper overhang and roof gables:
The construction will be very simple and easy; if you assemble the foundation correctly, the wooden frame box with a pitched roof can easily withstand winds of 18-25 m/s. If in the area where you plan to install the shed, there is no strong winds, then when building walls you can limit yourself to vertical drains from boards and timber, as in the drawing. For open areas, it is recommended to strengthen the vertical load-bearing supports with side struts, as in the photo.
The same applies to the design of a pitched roof. For quiet areas, you can build a pitched roof without using beams ceiling, but in this case top harness The walls and mauerlat will need to be supported with additional vertical supports made of timber. For windy areas, a pitched roof must be reinforced with floor beams and supports in the middle of the rafters.
All joints and connections are made with black carpentry screws 50 mm, 70 mm and 110 mm. To reduce the cost of construction, you can use ordinary nails and construction angles, but such savings are not always justified.
After choosing a site for building a shed, you will need to plan and remove soil on an area of at least 3x6 m in size. It makes no sense to make a larger building area. To prevent vegetation from pestering you, the cleared space can be covered with salt and sand.
After marking the location of the supports, at the installation points of the pillars we dig 12 holes, 15 cm deep and the size of a standard cinder block. At the bottom of the mini-pits we pour a 5 cm layer of a mixture of crushed stone and sand, after which we lay columnar supports from cinder blocks on masonry mortar with the addition of PVA.
Before laying out, you will need to pull horizontal cords, along which you can control the height of each support, so that the entire supporting surface of the pillars is in the same horizontal plane.
After a day, you can install the strapping beam. All corner joints and T-shaped mortises are made with the ends “half-timbered”, each connection is reinforced with self-tapping screws screwed into the beam at different angles.
At the next stage, you will need to install load-bearing vertical posts; they are highlighted in orange in the drawing. Next, we sew up the floor and lay the rafters of the pitched roof.
We make the central load-bearing racks from 50x100 boards, for the rear wall you will need to cut three 220 mm racks, for the front wall - four 250 mm racks. We first fix each support on the bottom trim with one self-tapping screw, then construction level We set the exact horizontal position and additionally secure it with small half-meter struts, as in the photo.
After all the racks are installed, we strengthen them with additional temporary struts and tie the upper tier of the frame under the future pitched roof. To give the entire structure of the barn additional rigidity, before assembling the elements of the pitched roof, it is necessary to cover the floor with a tongue-and-groove board.
Next is everything installed elements, floor boards, rafters, sheathing material, side posts, lower and upper trim must be treated with an antiseptic and preservative. During the time it takes to assemble the rafters and roof of the pitched roof, the procedure must be repeated twice.
For the upper overhang of a pitched roof, installation of rafters and sheathing, you will need to secure an additional horizontal beam Mauerlat, as in the diagram.
Gash seat on rafter beam performed according to markings or a prepared template. After installing and leveling the position of each beam, it is recommended to fill the space between the beams with short boards; they will fix the rafter from horizontal displacement and at the same time strengthen the base of the pitched roof.
At the final stage, we sew up the rafters of the pitched roof with a sheathing board. If the roof of the barn will be used bituminous materials– flexible tiles and roofing felt, additional installation will be required on the boards OSB sheets or hammer the sheathing completely with wooden clapboard.
The easiest way to cover a pitched roof is with corrugated sheeting. The metal surface will withstand any disasters that may occur in a summer cottage, and laying and fastening roofing material is much easier and faster than euro-slate or roofing felt. A polyethylene film is laid as waterproofing, the edges of which will be released from under the awnings and nailed to the top edge of the wooden walls of the barn.
Laying the roof on a pitched roof begins with the bottom left sheet, as in the diagram. Each element is joined to the previous one in a row in an overlap of two waves, on bottom sheet make an overlap of 15-20 cm. Places of overlap, the lower and upper edges must be pierced with roofing nails with a silicone washer.
Wind strips are nailed to the sides of the roofing pie, protecting the pitched roof from water flow and gusts of wind. We nail a similar strip for installing a drainage gutter under the lower overhang. We protect the upper overhang of a pitched roof with a screen made of two wooden planks.
The assembled frame of a shed, as a rule, is not insulated for the winter, so as a material for lining the walls, you can use clapboard, a regular edged board or sheet panels OSB. To install the cladding, you will need to install additional vertical slats and struts on the walls. Joints and gaps between OSB boards And edged board it is necessary to blow out with polyurethane foam, cut off excess polyurethane foam and be sure to paint over it with weather-resistant paint.
The selected version of a shed with a pitched roof, measuring 3x6 m, can last up to 15 years without repair, subject to the proper choice of protective paint and varnish materials. This design has one undeniable advantage– a shed made of timber with a pitched roof can be relatively easily disassembled and moved to a new location after a summer house or a new shed made of foam blocks is built.
I present to your attention another shed made of timber measuring 4.5 by 3 meters. Some of the photographs, unfortunately, were lost, so I will try to describe all the incomprehensible moments in words.
For the foundation, 9 holes 500x500 mm with a depth of about 600 mm were dug. Sand is poured into the holes, compacted and spilled with water. I laid it on the sand paving slabs 400x400 mm, on tiles - foundation blocks (FBS) 200x200x400 mm. The blocks were leveled.
Bottom frame made of timber 100x100x4500 mm (3 pieces) - for the long side and timber 100x100x3000 mm (2 pieces) for the short side. I made cuts on the timber so that the bottom trim was even (see the corners of the trim in the photo below). First we lay a 4.5m beam, then a 3m beam on top and fasten the whole thing with nails.
I immediately laid the floor - for this I took a thin 25mm board (looking ahead, I’ll say: don’t repeat my mistake. Take a thicker board so that the floor doesn’t “walk”).
The frame was assembled from 40mm boards. He collected it on the ground, then lifted it and nailed it with nails. See the result for yourself in the photographs:
It's time to move on to the roof. There were no particular difficulties here: I assembled the roof frame, made the sheathing and laid ondulin.
The walls were lined with clapboard:
And the view from the inside:
At the same time I inserted windows (made them small and taller so that no one could get in):
By evening the shed lining was ready:
The first step is to prepare the foundation. The simplest way is, as we wrote earlier. During the construction of this barn, a concrete foundation was prepared. For the foundation, holes were made with a depth of 800 mm and a diameter of 200 mm. For the formwork, twisted roofing felt was used, which protruded 500 mm above ground level. The fittings were welded from three rods. The last stage of the foundation is concreting. Use a hydraulic level to ensure the foundation is level. And here is the finished foundation:
A 100x100 mm beam was taken for the frame. To ensure that the frame is reliable and does not wobble, a truss is needed. Farm (from lat. firmus- durable) allows you to save geometric shapes barn. A 100×50 mm board was used as a truss (in the photo of the board dark color- this is a farm).
The next stage is lathing the roof of the barn. I used unedged board 100x25 mm. Corrugated sheets were chosen as the covering. Sheets of 2500 mm were purchased. Since we don’t need this length, the sheets were cut to 2000 mm. The remains of the cut sheets were later used to cover the foundation of the barn (see last photo).
For the ridge and ebbs, straight sheets of iron were cut and bent as required. The sheets are attached with an overlap (15-20 centimeters) using self-tapping screws.
The outer edges of the timber and the lower frame of the barn were impregnated with waste to protect the wood from rotting. The frame of the shed was upholstered with 150x25 boards with a slight overlap (approximately 20mm).
The next step is painting. A walnut colored impregnation was used. The first layer was applied with a brush, then two more layers with a spray gun. You can see for yourself what happened:
A 40x100 board was laid on the floor of the barn. The bottom of the barn, as I wrote above, was sealed with the remains of corrugation.
A door was made from the remains of a 100x25 board. Installed the door, painted and installed windows. Here's what we ended up with:
All that's left is to finish the steps and you're done! I worked alone and only on weekends. There was no construction experience. In the end, building a 6x3 shed on my own took two and a half months. Looking back, I will say what was done wrong:
To give you an idea of how much it will cost to build a shed with your own hands, I came up with the following estimate:
TOTAL: 46,740 rubles. I didn't count the windows because I already had them. If you add, for example, PVC windows, the barn will cost about fifty thousand.
A barn on a country plot is vital. Otherwise, you will have to store gardening tools and equipment in the house itself. Naturally, this will not contribute to comfortable living. A barn is a simple, lightweight structure. Making it with your own hands is quite possible for most skilled men.
An outbuilding in the form of a barn on a country plot is vital. It is intended for storing gardening and gardening equipment, ranging from a simple shovel or hoe to a walk-behind tractor, watering pump and other expensive equipment. In addition, storing pesticides, fertilizers or a small supply of gasoline in other rooms is simply unsafe.
Thanks to the frame shed, it will be possible to store all garden tools
The main advantage frame structure is its quick erectability and low construction complexity. The benefits are as follows:
If we talk about the shortcomings of structures of this kind, they arise only in connection with design or execution errors.
A frame shed is built quickly and easily
Preparation for building a shed consists of the following activities:
Let's look at the supporting structure. The barn does not need a massive foundation. It can be installed on concrete blocks small in size, using them in the corners and in the middle of the walls. However, in areas with high wind loads, it is better to use screw anchors. This is a miniature version of a screw pile. It is enough to install them at a distance of two meters from each other, the total need for such parts will be 8 pieces.
If you use the frame diagram, you can make a durable shed with your own hands
The site for this building is prepared as follows:
Thus, the likelihood of stagnant water under the shed is reduced, which will easily drain through the drainage.
The amount of materials needed to build a shed can be conveniently calculated in tabular form.
| Name | Purpose | Quantity (pcs) | Size(cm) | Standard data (pcs/m3) | Notes |
| Anchor | Support structure | 6 | |||
| Pine beam 100x100 Total by type of material: | Bottom strap length Bottom trim width Upper harness by lenght Upper strap width Rear stand Rear stand Front pillar Doorway | 2 2 2 2 4 1 5 1 11 | 600 400 600 400 200 200 300 90s 200 600 | 16,6 | From segments From a segment Total requirement 0.7 cubic meters |
| Beam 100x50 Total by type of material: | Additional sheathing in openings Ukosiny Window openings 60x20 cm | 24 8 2 2 11 | 150 300 160 600 | 33 | Total requirement 0.33 cubic meters |
| The board is not edged Total by type of material: | Overlapping external cladding back wall Same for the front wall Same for the side walls | 48 48 32 56 | 200 300 300 600 | 28 | Total requirement 2.0 cubic meters |
| Beam 50x150 mm | Translations | 7 | 400 | 22 | Remaining 7 pieces x200 mm Total requirement 0.33 cubic meters |
In addition to the above, you will need a plastic film for moisture protection. With a width of three meters it needs 20 linear meters for the outer protective layer and the same for the inner one. Depending on price indicators, it can be replaced with roofing felt.
The final roof covering is taken for the simplest of financial reasons. Regular slate or fiberglass, galvanized or painted corrugated sheeting will do. When calculating the need, you need to take into account overhangs with a width of 0.3–0.5 meters.
It is better to make the interior decoration from sheet material. Leftovers from finishing the house will also come in handy.
Thermal insulation in an unheated barn room has the opposite meaning. IN hot weather It is important to keep the temperature from overheating in the sun. In such a situation, without thermal insulation, it will be very uncomfortable to be in it. It is important to do and high-quality waterproofing walls
A frame shed can also be built on poles
For such a simple structure, the need for tools is small.
To build a shed you need to perform a series of sequential steps:
To build a shed you do not need a strong foundation. Often it is simply installed on brick stands. This directly depends on the nature of the soil at the location. If the subsoil layer consists of clay or heavy loam, this can lead to significant soil movements, as a result of which the structure can be warped, damaging the walls and jamming the doors. In such a situation, you need a fairly deep foundation, the supporting part of which will be below the freezing level of the soil.
The following types of support bases meet these conditions:
It makes no sense to consider other foundation designs. They are heavier and more expensive to construct: strip, grillage and other types of support bases, and they are inappropriate for a structure weighing several hundred kilograms.
A columnar foundation with a concrete grillage serves as a reliable support 
Lightweight foundation on piles will withstand loads on unfavorable soils 
A pile-screw foundation with a wooden grillage for installing a shed does not require excavation work 
Strip foundation - a lightweight option for lung installation buildings
The base for the shed is ready for further installation when the timber frame is installed and secured over the supports. It should represent a regular rectangle, the diagonals of which are equal to each other. The check is carried out by measuring with a long tape measure or cord.
Frame assembly:
As an option, you can consider making a shed frame from a profile pipe measuring 60x60x3 mm. The dimensions of the building are the same; the distance from the base of the lower frame to the top should be two meters.
The profile pipe for the frame will ensure long-term operation of the shed
The work is performed in the following order:
Further work on a wooden or steel frame is carried out almost identically:
Unedged boards are perfect for finishing the walls of a barn.
For the ceiling in a barn it is better to use sheet material
The subfloor in the barn is made of boards
Thermal insulation of the floor is made with expanded clay. It is advisable to use a fraction of 5–10 millimeters. To insulate walls, it is better to take rolled or slab materials, using leftovers from building a house.
Volume of this bulk material determined by the backfill area and layer thickness. The floor area is: 6 x 4 = 24 square meters, the backfill layer taking into account the layer thickness of 0.1 meters will be 24 x 0.1 = 2.4 cubic meters For the ceiling you will need the following amount: 24 x 1.16 = 28 meters, 2, 4 + 2.8 = 5.2 cubic meters. The coefficient of 1.16 takes into account the angle of inclination of the side walls.
The need for this material is determined by the area of the walls:
Thus, total area insulation for covering the walls will be: 12 + 20 + 18 = 50 sq. m.
Sheathing the walls of a barn with planks is inexpensive and lasts a long time. 
Glass wool reliably maintains the temperature in the barn 
Laying OSB boards on the floor is a practical option for a barn 
Material with low thermal conductivity will protect the shed from overheating in the summer 
Plywood is an excellent material for finishing the ceiling in a barn
All wooden parts need to be treated with fire-resistant impregnation and antiseptic. Otherwise, the barn will not last long.
The apparent simplicity of construction should not have a relaxing effect on the owner of the site. One way or another, you need to take into account the characteristics of the soil. If the movements lead to a distortion of the structure, the door may jam or break window frames. And also the slightest inaccuracy or error in the choice of materials for construction will lead to the loss of incurred costs.
The first building that appears on a new summer cottage is, of course, a barn, large and roomy. At first, until the bare territory of the dacha is “overgrown” with full-fledged outbuildings, a house, a summer kitchen and a garage, a simple shed with a pitched roof will long remain the only shelter for equipment, building materials and dacha property.
Depending on the plans for the future development of the suburban area, the availability of free time and money, the problem of utility room on a suburban area can be solved in several ways:
Of course, experienced summer residents with experience will without hesitation cast their votes in favor of the last option; this is the most balanced and thoughtful decision.
Advice! To immediately build a shed from foam blocks on a “clean” site is not correct from a planning point of view; often outbuildings of this type have to be demolished or moved in favor of a summer house or garage.
In addition, the construction of stone, prefabricated, panel sheds, as well as the purchase of a container, will require an order of magnitude greater investment and time than is necessary for a wooden building with a pitched roof and a simple foundation. The main thing is that, at considerable expense, there are no tangible advantages over a lean-to wooden shed measuring 3x6.
The most difficult element of a homemade shed is its roof. Choose a pitched roof for your shed, you can’t go wrong. Even experienced craftsmen prefer to install pitched roofs on barns; they are not as beautiful, but easier to build and more reliable in operation. Moreover, you can make a shed roof with your own hands step by step even with minimal construction experience.
The only mandatory condition is the correct orientation of the pitched roof and the entire shed building relative to the wind rose in order to reduce the risk of rainwater flowing under the upper overhang and gables of the roof:
The construction will be very simple and easy; if you assemble the foundation correctly, the wooden frame box with a pitched roof can easily withstand winds of 18-25 m/s. If there are no strong winds in the area in which the shed is planned to be installed, then when building walls you can limit yourself to vertical drains from boards and timber, as in the drawing. For open areas, it is recommended to strengthen the vertical load-bearing supports with side struts, as in the photo.
The same applies to the design of a pitched roof. For a quiet area, you can build a pitched roof without using ceiling beams, but in this case, the upper frame of the walls and the mauerlat will need to be supported with additional vertical supports made of timber. For windy areas, a pitched roof must be reinforced with floor beams and supports in the middle of the rafters.
All joints and connections are made with black carpentry screws 50 mm, 70 mm and 110 mm. To reduce the cost of construction, you can use ordinary nails and construction angles, but such savings are not always justified.
After choosing a site for building a shed, you will need to plan and remove soil on an area of at least 3x6 m in size. It makes no sense to make a larger building area. To prevent vegetation from pestering you, the cleared space can be covered with salt and sand.
After marking the location of the supports, at the installation points of the pillars we dig 12 holes, 15 cm deep and the size of a standard cinder block. At the bottom of the mini-pits we pour a 5 cm layer of a mixture of crushed stone and sand, after which we lay out columnar supports from cinder blocks using masonry mortar with the addition of PVA.
Before laying out, you will need to pull horizontal cords, along which you can control the height of each support, so that the entire supporting surface of the pillars is in the same horizontal plane.
After a day, you can install the strapping beam. All corner joints and T-shaped mortises are made with the ends “half-timbered”, each connection is reinforced with self-tapping screws screwed into the beam at different angles.
At the next stage, you will need to install load-bearing vertical posts; they are highlighted in orange in the drawing. Next, we sew up the floor and lay the rafters of the pitched roof.
We make the central load-bearing racks from 50x100 boards, for the rear wall you will need to cut three 220 mm racks, for the front wall - four 250 mm racks. We first fix each support on the lower frame with one self-tapping screw, then set the exact horizontal position according to the building level and additionally fasten it with small half-meter struts, as in the photo.
After all the racks are installed, we strengthen them with additional temporary struts and tie the upper tier of the frame under the future pitched roof. To give the entire structure of the barn additional rigidity, before assembling the elements of the pitched roof, it is necessary to cover the floor with a tongue-and-groove board.
Next, all installed elements, floor boards, rafters, sheathing material, side posts, lower and upper trim must be treated with an antiseptic and preservative. During the time it takes to assemble the rafters and roof of the pitched roof, the procedure must be repeated twice.
For the upper overhang of a pitched roof, installation of rafters and sheathing, you will need to secure an additional horizontal beam of the mauerlat, as in the diagram.
The cutting of the seat on the rafter beam is carried out according to the markings or according to a prepared template. After installing and leveling the position of each beam, it is recommended to fill the space between the beams with short boards; they will fix the rafter from horizontal displacement and at the same time strengthen the base of the pitched roof.
At the final stage, we sew up the rafters of the pitched roof with a sheathing board. If bituminous materials are used for the roof of the barn - flexible tiles and roofing felt, additional OSB sheets will need to be laid on the boards or the sheathing will need to be hammered solid with wooden clapboard.
The easiest way to cover a pitched roof is with corrugated sheeting. The metal surface will withstand any disasters that may occur in a summer cottage, and laying and fastening roofing material is much easier and faster than euro-slate or roofing felt. A polyethylene film is laid as waterproofing, the edges of which will be released from under the awnings and nailed to the top edge of the wooden walls of the barn.
Laying the roof on a pitched roof begins with the bottom left sheet, as in the diagram. Each element is joined to the previous one in a row in an overlap of two waves, an overlap of 15-20 cm is made on the bottom sheet. The overlap areas, the lower and upper edges must be pierced with roofing nails with a silicone washer.
Wind strips are nailed to the sides of the roofing pie, protecting the pitched roof from water flow and gusts of wind. We nail a similar strip for installing a drainage gutter under the lower overhang. We protect the upper overhang of a pitched roof with a screen made of two wooden planks.
The assembled frame of a shed, as a rule, is not insulated for the winter, so lining, ordinary edged boards or OSB sheet panels can be used as a material for lining the walls. To install the cladding, you will need to install additional vertical slats and struts on the walls. The joints and cracks between the OSB boards and the edged boards must be blown out with polyurethane foam, excess polyurethane foam must be cut off and painted over with weather-resistant paint.
The selected version of a shed with a pitched roof, measuring 3x6 m, can last up to 15 years without repair, provided that protective paint and varnish materials are chosen correctly. This design has one undeniable advantage - a shed made of timber with a pitched roof can be relatively easily disassembled and moved to a new location after a summer house or a new shed made of foam blocks is built.
