The advantages of installing plastic windows are not only performance characteristics, but also ease of installation. A simple process, facilitated by the presence of fastening devices and additional parts in the factory configuration, House master He will be able to master and implement it himself. There are a number of nuances in it that dictate the independent installer to scrupulously comply with construction regulations. You will need patience, accuracy and at least one person to help you. Then installing plastic windows yourself will be done flawlessly and practically free of charge.
Before buying a window, they traditionally take measurements of the opening, taking into account whether it has a quarter or without. Openings with a quarter are a characteristic detail of a foam concrete structure, which significantly reduces heat loss. For an opening without a quarter, you need to order a window whose length will be 5 cm less than the equivalent parameter of the opening. You need to subtract 3 cm from the width value. Gaps along the contour of 1.5 cm are needed for foaming, an additional 3.5 cm from the bottom are needed for the window sill. GOSTs recommend leaving 2.0 cm around the perimeter.
To create an opening with a quarter, measurements are taken at the narrowest point. Windows are ordered by adding 3 cm to the width, the length does not change.
Windows are usually located not in the middle of the opening, but retreating from the outer plane 1/3 in depth. But those who want to install a plastic window with their own hands may have options with an offset to either side. This circumstance must be taken into account when ordering window sills and external ebbs. The widths of both elements calculated according to the location of the window must be added by 5 cm.
Calculations for the width of the window sill are also affected by the location of the battery. It should only cover the radiator halfway. Plus 2 cm for placement under the base of the window. The minimum length margin is 8 cm, but it’s better not to skimp and add 15 cm to cut this part Beautiful.
Note. The window sills and ebbs are supplied with plastic side plugs. Don't give up on them.
The installation technology does not depend on the number of internal chambers in the metal-plastic profile, nor on the number of chambers in double-glazed windows. It depends on the material from which the walls of the building are constructed, and on the dimensions of the window. Based on the above prerequisites, the fastening method and devices are selected.
You can fix the plastic window structure:
The first method is considered the most reliable. It is used primarily for the installation of large and heavy window systems. With through-mounting, the window will firmly resist numerous impact loads that arise, for example, when operating windows with sashes that open in two different positions. In addition, anchors passing through the frame will allow you to more accurately adjust the verticals and horizontals of the mounted structure.
However, those who want to know how to properly install plastic windows small dimensions with solid double-glazed windows, you should be interested in the method of fixation with anchor plates. They will not spoil the appearance of the window, as they will then be hidden under the slopes.
Advice. For installation of anchor plates in concrete or brick opening It is advisable to make small recesses so that you do not have to apply an extra leveling layer before installing the internal slopes.
Often builders combine both methods. The anchors are buried in the walls through the side elements of the frame and through the bottom profile (window base), and the top is fixed only with plates. If you install plastic windows yourself wooden bath, anchor plates are rarely used, they can become loose. Instead of anchors, galvanized self-tapping screws are sometimes used.
To a large extent, the installation process is influenced by the type of building material. If for walls made of foam concrete, hollow or solid bricks the differences are only in the size of the depth of the anchors, then for openings in log cabins and in timber walls special approach. You need to take into account not only how, but also when it is better to install plastic windows in wooden openings, and also how this should be done.
Not in building regulations precise recommendations about the material for ebbs and window sills in wooden houses. Shimmers are usually used standard, attached to the window structure. The window sill can be either polymer or wood. It is not prohibited for the bottom profile to rest directly on the wooden window sill. That is, before installation it may already be there.
There is a nuance not specified in the regulations, but recommended experienced builders for those who are figuring out how to properly install plastic windows. Wood that can allow evaporation to pass through will help reduce technical qualities polyurethane foam. To ensure that the foam “blown out” around the perimeter does not become moistened, window unit It is advisable to equip it with foil polyethylene foam tape along the line of its application.
A distinctive feature of the technology is the use of polyurethane foam, which imparts rigidity to the frame-opening connection. The layer obtained as a result of polymerization of the foam simultaneously serves as insulation and additional fastening. In order for the specified element to save the necessary specifications The foam layer is surrounded by insulating layers.
When it is better to install a plastic window, the owner himself decides. Winter installation is often recommended due to the immediate appearance of all flaws. When choosing polyurethane foam, you must take into account at what atmospheric temperatures the composition will harden better. It is recommended to prefer professional foam, and to work with negative thermometer readings you need to buy a specialized nozzle.
How to perform foaming is described in detail by the manufacturer in the instructions supplied with the product. Foaming usually begins from the bottom, moving upward in a rotary and circular motion. To avoid overconsumption of expensive material, blow out the foam in several stages in sections of 25-30 cm.
Advice. In order to shift the dew point, foaming is performed with unequal density. It is recommended to make the outward-facing layer of foam less dense than the inner one. The foam must be blown evenly around the perimeter, without voids or gaps.
There should be no dust, no debris, no paint residues in the opening - this required condition. Home craftsmen who want to know how to insert a plastic window into a wooden structure need to plan off the top “unreliable” layer if the installation will be carried out in a box that has already been used. The foam adheres firmly to top layer. If there is a suspicion that it will peel off over time, it is better to eliminate it.
Advice. The gaps between the frame and the opening are filled only with foam if the distance does not exceed the limit of 4 cm. If the gaps are larger, it is better to partially fill them with cheaper material: plasterboard, pieces of timber, foam plastic, brick, etc.
Note. You can insert a small plastic window using mounting plates without removing the sashes or double-glazed windows. If possible, there is no need to violate the integrity of the factory structure.
Attention. You can't lay it flat! Place it skewed too. The smallest pebble under the base will cause a crack to appear.
Most video instructions teaching how to install a plastic window yourself dictate fixing the PSUL protective tape before installation. However craftsmen, faced with its adhesive “inconvenience”, convince that it is wiser to attach it after installation.
Advice. It is advisable to place the spacer devices next to the fastening point with a self-tapping screw or anchor. They will protect the frame from deformation.
After completing all operations for 16 hours, it is not recommended to use windows so as not to damage the integrity of the installation seams. Not only skilled owners need to know how to install a plastic window. If the owner of a country estate decides to order the services of a little-known team of installers, he also needs to study the specifics of installation in advance.
If you or someone you know has previously used the services of companies installing double-glazed windows, then you know that installation can be normal and in accordance with GOST. The second option is more expensive, but if all the requirements are met, the quality will be much higher than in the first (you can read more about the standards in GOST 30971-02).
Consists of several stages.
Note! Manufacturers do not provide a guarantee if the measurements were not carried out by their employees. At incorrect installation the windows will soon begin to freeze, and if even the slightest mistake was made in the calculations, the structure simply will not fit into the opening.
However, if you study all the intricacies of the process, then no difficulties will arise during installation. Moreover, this way you can save a decent amount of money.
In most apartments there are openings without a quarter.
Note! A quarter is an internal frame 6 cm wide (or ¼ brick, hence the name) that prevents the window from falling out and strengthens the structure as a whole.
If there is no quarter, then the frame will be installed on anchors, and the foam will be covered with special covers. Determining the presence of a quarter is quite simple: if the internal and external widths of the frame are different, then there is still a quarter.
Note! The measurements must be repeated several times and the lowest result taken.
To determine the width of the window, two installation gaps are subtracted from the width of the opening. To determine the height, the same two gaps plus the height of the profile for the stand are subtracted from the height of the opening.
The symmetry and straightness of the opening are checked, for which a mounting level and plumb line are used. All defects and irregularities must be indicated in the drawing.
To determine the width of the drainage, add 5 cm to the existing drainage for bending. Also, the width of the insulation and cladding is taken into account (subject to subsequent finishing of the facade).
The dimensions of the window sill are determined as follows: the width of the opening is added to the size of the overhang, and the width of the frame is subtracted from the resulting figure. Regarding the offset, it should cover the heating radiator by a third.
Note! measured after installation is complete.
After measurements finished drawing should be taken to the window manufacturer, where all the necessary fittings will be selected. It is worth remembering that installation can be performed in one of two existing ways:
In the first option, you will have to pull the package out of the frame, insert it into the opening and install the glass back. In the second case, the entire structure is attached as a whole. Each option has disadvantages - if you pull out the package, it can; and vice versa, if the window is installed assembled, it can be damaged due to its heavy weight.
This stage of installation begins only after delivery of the ordered windows. Released first workplace, all furniture is covered with plastic film (there will be a lot of dust).
Step 1. If required, the glass unit is removed from the window. To do this, the glazing bead is slightly pryed with a staple and pulled out. First of all, the vertical beads are removed, then the horizontal ones. They must be numbered, otherwise gaps will form after installation.
Step 3. The bolts are unscrewed after the plugs are removed from the canopies. The handle is turned to the “ventilation mode” (in the center), the window is opened slightly and removed. All that remains is the frame with imposts.
Note! Imposts are special jumpers designed to separate the sashes.
Then you need to make a marking for the anchors and make holes along it - two on the bottom/top and three on each side. To do this, you will need ø1 cm anchors and a drill of the required diameter.
If the material from which the walls are made is not dense (for example, cellular concrete), then fastening is carried out using anchor suspensions. The latter should be fixed to the wall and frame with hardened self-tapping screws (eight pieces for each).
Note! To avoid the formation of a thermal bridge in the window sill profile, it should be filled the day before installation. This way the element will not freeze.
This procedure is recommended to be carried out immediately before installing a new window. In most cases, the old ones are thrown away, so the structure can be torn out along with the fastening, and if necessary, the frame can be sawed.
Step 1. First, the seal and thermal insulation are removed.
Step 3. The window sill is removed and the cement layer underneath is cleaned off.
Step 4. Adjacent surfaces are treated with a primer material (by the way, many installers forget about this). In the case of a wooden opening, a layer of waterproofing material is laid around the perimeter.
Note! Installation can be carried out at a temperature not lower than -15ᵒC. Polyurethane foam must be frost-resistant.
Step 1. First, wooden wedges are placed around the entire perimeter, a window is installed on them (this will make it easier to level the structure), only after this is it fastened to the wall. You can leave the backings - they will serve as additional fasteners.
Step 2. The absence of a support profile can be considered a gross violation of GOST standards, since it is not only needed for stability, but also makes it possible to install a low sill with a window sill. In the absence of a profile, they are attached directly to the frame, which violates its tightness.
The correct location of the stand profile is shown in the diagram.
Step 3. Next, the evenness of the window is checked in three planes, for which a mounting level and plumb line are used. It is characteristic that traditional bubble levels are not suitable for this due to insufficient measurement accuracy, so it is better to use.
Step 4. If the window is level, then it is secured with anchors. To do this, a wall is drilled using a hammer drill through pre-prepared holes in the structure (approximately 6-10 cm). The lower anchors are fixed (not completely), the evenness of the package is checked again, after which the remaining points are attached.
Note! The final screed is made only after the final inspection. Do not tighten too much, otherwise the structure will “skew”.
Polyurethane foams and cleaners for construction guns
From the outside, the ebb is attached to the stand profile with self-tapping screws. The joints are carefully sealed with sealant to prevent moisture from penetrating into the structure.
The edges of the ebb are recessed several centimeters into the walls, having previously made indentations using a hammer drill.
Note! Before installation, the bottom gap is also sealed.
After attaching the anchors, the glass unit is inserted back.
Step 1. The glass is inserted and fixed with glazing beads (the latter should snap into place, for which you can lightly tap them with a rubber hammer).
Step 2. The doors are opened and their tightness is checked. IN open position arbitrary opening/closing of the sash cannot happen if the window is installed level.
Step 3. The assembly seam is sealed on the sides. Polyurethane foam will provide high-quality waterproofing and will prevent the glass from fogging up. Before and after sealing, the seams are sprayed with water to improve polymerization.
Note! The seams are filled to no more than 90%, otherwise the structure will “lead.” If everything is done correctly, after drying the foam will protrude out a few centimeters.
Step 4. The perimeter of the window is glued with a special vapor barrier tape, and material with a foil surface is used underneath.
Step 1. The window sill is cut so that it fits into the opening and at the same time rests against the lining profile. There remains a small gap (about 1 cm) for thermal expansion. Subsequently, the gap is hidden by plastic
Step 2. Wooden wedges are placed under the window sill. It needs to be laid with a slight slope towards the room, and then applied with something heavy until the foam dries. Additionally, the window sill can be fixed with anchor plates.
Now you know how plastic windows are installed, so you can safely get to work. The final check of all elements can be carried out only 24 hours after completion of installation (then the foam will have already “set”).
The described technology is also quite applicable to, although it also has its own nuances - such as, for example, installing a parapet to create a partition.
Find out how to do it correctly from our new article.
Technology for installing plastic windows in brick house differs from the rules for installing PVC profile products in concrete or panel walls. Important before you start installation work understand these differences and avoid mistakes.
Installation of plastic windows requires a set of tools and consumables.
Plastic windows in a brick house can be installed on anchor plates or bolts. Their size depends on the depth of the quarters into which the product will be attached, as well as the quality of the brick from which the walls are laid. It can be gas silicate, foam concrete, etc.
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If the installation is carried out in a secondary housing stock, before installing the window, you must first remove it from the opening old frame. To do this you will need:
To dismantle you will need a small crowbar. If the frames are quite massive, then to facilitate the breaking process you can use hand saw on wood or with a jigsaw.
To drill holes for fasteners, you will need a hammer drill, and to attach the frame to anchors, you will need a screwdriver. Will still be needed construction knife with replaceable blades, level, good quality construction guns for foam and sealant.
Installing plastic windows is a multi-stage process. At each stage it is necessary to use various consumables:
Mounting wedges are needed to level the level; if necessary, they are placed under the stand profile.
Polyurethane foam — insulating material for filling the assembly seam, i.e.
The rules for installing plastic windows are explained in detail by GOST R 52749-2007 “Window installation seams with vapor-permeable self-expanding tapes. Technical conditions". This state standard prescribes that before you begin installing a window in an opening, stick PSUL around its perimeter.
This self-expanding material is independent mounting layer, which cannot be covered with plaster, putty or painted over. Otherwise, the insulating material will not perform its functions.
When inserting a frame into a window opening, you should adhere to the tolerances. The deviation of the window frame in the horizontal and vertical plane should be no more than 1.5 mm per 1 m of length, but no more than 3 mm over the entire height of the window.
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The frame is attached to brick wall By following rules:
The inserted block must be checked for deviation from the level and foamed around the perimeter.
PSUL around the perimeter and foam insulation are only 2 parts of the three-layer filling of the installation seam described by GOST.
After foaming the frame, it is necessary to remove the installation mounting wedges from under the stand profile and fill the resulting voids with foam. For better adhesion inner surface The window opening can be moistened with a spray before foaming.
Before installing the low tide outside a waterproof, vapor-permeable tape should be applied. The ebb is screwed to the stand profile with self-tapping screws. The edges of the ebb should be folded onto the outer slopes to avoid moisture getting under it.
A vapor barrier is glued to the inside of the window around the perimeter (except for the lower horizontal part of the frame), which provides an additional sealing layer assembly seam and insulates it from moisture. This tape is available in various widths and can be applied both under wet finishing of slopes (plaster) and dry finishing (slopes made of polystyrene foam or plastic). They also produce universal tapes for slopes.
A vapor barrier is also installed under the window sill board: full-butyl tape with a foil layer.
The frame installed in the opening and foamed around the perimeter must be assembled.
Double-glazed windows are inserted into blind, non-opening parts. To glaze (fasten) an installed double-glazed window, you will need a medium-sized plexiglass hammer. The beads are cut at an angle of 45° and inserted into the frame around the perimeter of the glass unit with some force. In order for the glazing bead to finally snap into place, it must be lightly knocked down with a hammer.
If the window unit being installed has opening sashes, it is necessary to hang them on their hinges. This task is not difficult to cope with, since modern window fittings are very easy to use.
But putting the sash in place is not enough. You should check its functionality and, if necessary, adjust it in the hinge part using a special adjusting key.
To check how accurately a plastic window is level, you need to open the sash. If it does not slam shut or open wider by inertia, it means the block is installed correctly.
The installation of wooden windows, like plastic ones, cannot be considered complete if the window sill is not installed. The window sill board snaps into place and is attached to the stand profile.
If, during dismantling, voids are identified under the window, you can fill them with insulation, for example, rolled or tiled, and then install a window sill.
For final finishing opening, you need to understand how to properly install the slopes. They can be plastered or assembled from sandwich panels made of expanded polystyrene foam.
At latest version the panels are cut to size locally, taking into account the geometry of each slope. A U-shaped plastic profile, otherwise called starting. A panel is inserted into it. The voids foam.
Foam is a polyurethane foam sealant that, due to its properties, requires a certain amount of time to fully expand and harden. Typically from 1 to 24 hours.
Sandwich panels are closed where they meet the wall decorative profile, most often F-shaped.
The junctions of the slopes and the frame to the window sill are sealed with sealant.
Mount a PVC profile window and install wooden window- not the same thing. Installing windows in a brick house involves certain nuances. You need to have everything on hand necessary tool, including adjustment keys for window fittings, as well as a supply of fasteners and special mounting tapes.
It is equally important to choose the right mounting foam and sealant. As an alternative to the latter, so-called liquid plastic can be used. This is a special adhesive-sealant that hardens very quickly, but also creates a particularly strong sealed seam.
If you are not sure that you can handle the installation yourself, it is better to seek the help of specialists.
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PVC windows have long proven themselves with the best side. They are multifunctional, reliable and durable. However, these indicators directly depend on how well the installation was carried out window system. There are only two methods: installing windows on plates and the unpacking method. With the first method, you do not need to remove the glazing bead and remove the glass unit from the frame. The window structure is secured using anchor plates, which allows you to install the window without any special skills.
Both methods have their own nuances, positive and negative qualities.
This fastening method is characterized by the fact that before installation, the frame must be completely disassembled: the blind and opening doors are removed, and only then installation is carried out through the profile with self-tapping screws.
The unpacking method is mainly used when installing large windows
After installing the profile, the system will have to be assembled and adjusted again. This option is used for large windows with an area of 4 square meters for reliable fastening of such a large structure.
Straightening plates are installed between the glass unit and the profile Here it would be appropriate to mention the straightening plates, which are installed to avoid contact between the edges of the glass unit and window profile. Their presence will ensure uniform distribution of the weight of the glass unit and ventilation of the rebate space. The plates are made of plastic, the width of the element corresponds to the width of the glass unit.
When installing PVC windows on plates, there is no need to remove the glass unit Installation of windows on plates begins with the acquisition of these same plates. There are models for universal use and those made for use with a specific profile system. They are usually supplied with structures of complex shapes. Their peculiarity is that they have special “ears” and can be inserted into existing grooves on the surface of the frame.
Anchor plates with lugs are used with complex window structures Plates without ears are fastened with bolts, and with ears - with self-tapping screws. Requirements for bolts: 4.5*25 and the presence of a metal drill.
A standard window requires at least five plates. One plate is fixed in the central part of the frame, and two on both sides: one on top and one on bottom. In this case, you should retreat 20 cm from the border of the frame.
To install a standard shaped window, 5 plates are enough Installing windows without unpacking involves fastening the frame with anchor plates from the outside of the window opening. In this case, there is no need to remove the glazing bead and glass unit. When unpacking, fasteners are provided through the frame with preliminary disassembly of the window system into constituent elements: sashes, double glazed windows.
Fastening with plates is appropriate for use on windows of medium and small size, most often it is standard windows residential buildings and apartments. Large window systems (more than 4 square meters) are attached to anchor dowels through the frame, since the weight of such a structure is significant and the plates will not support it.
Large window systems are installed using anchor dowels Using anchor dowels they also secure door frames. In professional circles among installers of metal-plastic structures, this installation method is considered the most reliable, but it has some disadvantages:
When installing windows on dowels, there is a high risk of glass damage If you want to install the window yourself using this method, you will need to buy 10*132 mm dowels. Among the tools, you will need a powerful hammer drill - this device is professional and expensive equipment that is rarely used on the farm, so it is not advisable to purchase it for the installation of one or two windows. You can look for a company that deals with delivery construction equipment for rent, usually hammer drills are the most popular product.
By installing the window on plates, all these problems will not have to be solved. You just need to buy the plates themselves.
A few more reasons why you shouldn’t bother with bolt-on mounting when installing it yourself, but prefer plates. In order to attach the anchor bolt, it will be necessary to drill a hole in the PVC window frame. As a result, depressurization of the glass unit chamber is possible.
As a result of the fact that during drilling, the reinforcement of the system may be disrupted, problems are observed in the future when the window system freezes. As a result, excessive moisture formation occurs inside the room and mold appears on the surface of the slopes.
When fixing a PVC window with bolts, depressurization of the double-glazed window may occur. If you lack experience and do not know the properties of the material from which the structure is made, it may happen that it will stretch if installed incorrectly. It will be almost impossible to correct the geometry of the window frame.
There are still positive qualities to attaching plastic windows to anchor bolts:
This method of attaching a window system is as simple as possible and accessible to everyone.
Compared to the unpacking method, the method is considered absolutely safe for the window system, but the only disadvantage is that some fastening elements (plates) will remain visible after installation. However, they can also be properly camouflaged by hiding them under the slopes when they are finished.
Inserting a plastic window using plates is easier and safer than fixing it with bolts There is another recommendation from experts: if the window has an opening sash that will be used very often, then the window may fail. This type of fastening is recommended for moderate opening or for fixed windows.
Considered alternative combined method fastenings: the upper part of the structure is mounted on plates, and the lower part is fixed with anchor bolts.
Self-tapping screws should be used as a fixing element. Glue or foam are not suitable. The use of a percussion mechanism to create holes is only possible for concrete surfaces.
To avoid damaging the window frame with the drill, it must be of sufficient length. Additionally, you can protect the surface of the frame by installing a piece of PVC near the hole to be drilled.
Self-tapping screws are used as fastening elements When installing a window in a brick opening that has vertical voids, holes for fasteners are formed in the interblock seams. To control the immersion of the self-tapping screw into the body of the frame, it is necessary to use a screwdriver with an appropriate function that limits the torque.
The first step is to fasten the anchor plates in increments of no more than 1 meter. In order for the frame to maintain a stable position, the fastening elements relative to the corners of the frame should be located at a distance of no more than 25 cm.
The distance from the plates to the corners must be at least 25 cm It is important to remember that the distance from the border of the window structure to the opening must be at least 2 cm. If this condition is not met, it is necessary to make recesses in the surface of the opening to accommodate fasteners. To do this, the plates are installed on the frame, then it is installed in the opening.
On the surface of the wall, use a pencil or chalk to mark the future location of the fasteners. Then the frame is removed and in place of the marks, using a chisel, a recess is made into which the plate should fit and be tightly fixed. This will allow you to subsequently effectively mask the plates when finishing the slopes.
At the next stage, a window structure is placed in the opening and its position is leveled using wooden blocks prepared in advance. Their thickness should not exceed 3 cm and their installation occurs only horizontally, while vertical alignment occurs, which is controlled using a level.
Vertical alignment is done by level When the position of the frame is leveled, you can begin to secure the plates using 6*40 dowels at concrete base or self-tapping screws in other cases.
Gaps are sealed using polyurethane foam To avoid frame distortion, the plates are secured in order. First, fix the lower left corner, then the right, monitoring using a level. The top plates are secured last. At the final stage, the seams are sealed using polyurethane foam.
Hello. Today we will talk about window fasteners. Personally, I prefer a frame dowel with a diameter of 10 mm. Why? Let's learn more about how to fix plastic windows.
The choice of fasteners for windows primarily depends on the material of the wall into which you will mount your window:
Secondly, on the type of construction and technical specifications installation:
1. Anchor or frame dowel. It happens with a diameter of 8 mm, but practice shows that optimal diameter frame dowel - 10 mm. In my opinion, the most reliable and convenient fastening for windows.
Available in different lengths: 72 mm, 92 mm, 112 mm, 132 mm, 152 mm, 182 mm, 202 mm. Used as follows:
2. Anchor plate. For each type of window profile, especially popular ones, a certain type of anchor plate is produced. But since, according to the technology, the plates need to be screwed to the window frame, you can use any window plates (only for the sake of economy, of course).
By the way, regarding screwing the plates into the frame. There are so-called crab plates. That is, they cut or snap into the profile. So, if there is a quarter in the opening, many installers do not screw such plates. The window will not fall out, and this is the most important thing. After all, a quarter holds the window.
It must be said that there are cases (nowadays less often) when window installers, grossly violating installation technology, do not use fasteners at all. Simply fix the window with wedges and fill it with polyurethane foam.
I hope such cases will pass you by.
3. Wood screws. Used for attaching windows to wood. The cheapest fasteners, and this is probably the only plus.
4. Concrete screw. I think it is only used in Europe. I went to the professional store “” in St. Petersburg, where you can buy a lot of things, and talked with the sellers. They don't have these screws.
Brick is good material for the construction of buildings. But attaching plastic windows to brick is sometimes problematic. What exactly is the difficulty?
If you use a frame dowel, then it is better to drill holes in the frame for this dowel not in advance, but locally. This is necessary in order to get the anchor directly into the middle of the brick, and not into the mortar between the bricks. Of course, no one does this (by the way, neither do I). After all, this is a waste of time.
Frame dowel, it is advisable to choose the maximum long length(minimum entry into brick 6 - 10 cm). If the brick is hollow, then use the 202nd anchor.
Apply anchor plates You can put it into a brick if you are sure that the brick is not hollow. But even a solid brick can be Bad quality. And it will be very difficult for a non-professional to attach the plate into it.
The ideal option for fastening windows for wood is anchor plates. And no one can convince me of this. Frame houses or timber, plates only.
From my bitter experience I will tell you how I fixed windows with screws in top part boxes in a timber house. And there was a casing, and a gap of about 4 cm. A year later, the timber began to shrink, and these screws, together with the timber, went straight into the double-glazed windows.
As a result, several double-glazed windows were replaced under warranty. Got the money. After this incident, if I use screws, then only in exceptional cases, and only in the side parts of the window frame.
By the way, even during construction frame houses, professionals do not recommend using hardened screws. Wood is a living material and when moved, screws break, and a nail, for example, bends. The same principle applies to the anchor plate.
Anchor plates for wooden houses good for the following reasons:
The aerated concrete wall is loose. Can be mounted on a frame dowel with a maximum length of 202 mm. This is the easiest and fastest way.
But it's more correct fix plastic windows onto the anchor plates through a special dowel for aerated concrete. It's a little longer and more complicated. In addition, you need to buy or have a hex bat in your arsenal.
If we mean good quality concrete, from which, for example, lintels are made over window openings, then drilling such concrete with a diameter of 10 mm under a frame dowel is a bit difficult, but it is possible.
In this case, it is better to use anchor plates. But the panels and block houses, it is just more efficient to mount it on a frame dowel. It's more reliable and faster.
At the beginning of the article, I said that the choice of fasteners for windows also depends on the type of structure. So I want to talk about this type of glazing of loggias and balconies.
As a rule, the window fasteners fall into the very edge of the top concrete slab or into the edge of a brick bottom and side wall. Therefore, attaching loggias to the edge of the wall using a frame dowel can be quite dangerous.
Anchor plates are a great way out of the situation.
And finally, I would like to say about a big plus anchors, which is at the same time a disadvantage for anchor plates.
When the window frame is attached to anchors, at the time of drilling you level only one vertical plane. And you adjust the second vertical plane after inserting the anchor.
When fastening with anchor plates, you will have to set two vertical planes at once and only after that make holes with a hammer drill. This requires certain skill and skill.
