The same as when installing other types flooring, two main requirements are put forward for the base, the first of which is the absence of bumps and depressions on the surface, i.e. ideal plane, and the second is brand strength. All requirements for floor screed under parquet are described in documents SNiP 3.04.01-87 “Insulating and finishing coatings" and VSN 9-94 "Instructions for installing floors in residential and public buildings."
The evenness of the base can be checked using a horizontal rod, at least two meters long. It must be placed on the base of the floor, while the gap between the lath and the screed should not exceed two millimeters, and the slope can be up to 0.2% of the entire floor area, but not more than 50 millimeters. Only such a screed can be used for laying any type of parquet, be it classic piece parquet, parquet or solid board.
If there are still unevenness on the floor screed, they must be eliminated. In cases where differences in height do not exceed 20 millimeters, they can be leveled using grinding machine or self-leveling mixtures, for example Vetonit 3000. If height differences of more than 10-20 millimeters are noticeable on the base, then the screed will have to be re-filled.
There is also a requirement for self-leveling mixtures, according to SNiP 2.03.13-88 “Floors”, their compressive strength should not be less than 150 kilograms per square centimeter. To ensure that the strength of the screed produced meets the standards, when preparing the solution, cement-sand mixtures brand M150. If you are going to glue the parquet directly to the base, then you need to make a more durable screed, for the preparation of which M300 cement-sand mixtures are used.
If the screed does not imply the passage of any communications in it, then its average thickness is about 40 millimeters. It is worth considering that even such a small screed will take about months to dry, at the rate of one week for every 10 millimeters of screed. If for some reason you cannot wait that long, then it is better to use a semi-dry screed. It will significantly reduce the time of complete drying, but at the same time significantly increase the cost of the material. This is the only way to reduce deadlines. To achieve this, many craftsmen try to force dry the screed using construction hair dryer, but it is not advisable to do this, since air currents can cause the solution to become loose, and cracks may appear on the surface, which significantly reduces the quality of the base. But even when the screed dries naturally, rare cracks are not excluded; they will need to be sealed separately with a special solution.
Laying parquet on concrete screed- one of the most popular methods of finishing floors in residential premises. We will tell you how to lay parquet boards on a concrete floor and make a beautiful floor covering with your own hands.
Parquet can turn your floor into luxury element decor of the room, provided that the installation technology is followed parquet board on concrete. It includes a number of rules and requirements that must be taken into account.
Classic parquet boards are made from solid wood of a certain species:
And as we all know, wood is a rather finicky material, since it is more susceptible to climate change and temperature changes than others.
In addition, it is important to comply with the requirements for the foundation. In our case, the base is a concrete screed, so we will only talk about it.
Important!
Regardless of the quality of the parquet board, the method of laying it, the glue used and the method of fixing the coating, the base must be smooth, durable and have acceptable humidity.
Based on this, we can list the basic requirements for materials and foundation:
To accurately determine the moisture content of materials, you can use special device- hygrometer.
Important!
The screed must have time to gain its design strength, for which you must wait until at least 28 days have passed from the moment the floor is poured.
It is impossible to speed up the process by heating or additional ventilation of the concrete.
As already mentioned, the preparation of the base for parquet is given Special attention. Therefore, we want to examine this topic in more detail.
There are two options - an old screed and a floor that requires concreting. In the first case, it is necessary to inspect the old floor and, if necessary, bring it into compliance with the requirements listed above. If there is no screed, you will have to build it yourself or with the help of specialists.
Usually, rough screed present in apartments. Now you need to check its quality and evenness.
The first step is to check the floor using the two-meter rule for level differences from the plane. To do this, the rule is applied to the floor in different places and different positions, measuring the gaps that appear between the ruler and the surface. We remind you that the norm is 2 mm per 2 meters.
If abnormal changes occur sporadically and are caused by local bumps or potholes, then you can limit yourself to scraping or using a coarse abrasive in these places. You can use a grinder with an emery wheel.
If there are numerous differences, then it will be more expedient and easier to level the floor using a self-leveling mixture, which can be purchased at any hardware store. Before using the mixture, the floor is cleaned of dust and dirt, primed with a special compound to increase adhesion, the solution is prepared according to the manufacturer's instructions and poured onto the floor, leveling it with a needle roller.
The minimum thickness of the layer, depending on the composition of the mixture, can be from 1 to 3 cm. The leveling layer must also have time to gain strength and dry. The ripening period of the material is indicated on the packaging and usually ranges from one to several days.
It is also possible to level the floor using joists and plywood, but we are considering laying it on concrete, and therefore we will leave this method for another article.
Important!
When the surface material has fully matured and reached its design strength, it is necessary to ensure that its moisture content does not exceed the permissible value.
To do this, it is better to use a special hygrometer, and if you don’t have one, apply a piece of plastic film to the floor for a day, and then look at the surface that was in contact with the floor (the presence of condensation will indicate increased humidity).
If the old screed has significant defects - cracks, potholes, holes - they should be eliminated. Cutting reinforced concrete with diamond wheels will allow you to remove illicit areas of concrete around the defective area, which can then be filled with new mortar and leveled. If it is necessary to lay new pipes or risers, diamond drilling of holes in concrete with special crowns is used.
The price of a professional installer is quite high, and therefore we suggest installing the coating yourself.
Our instructions will help you with this:
Important!
The parquet board should be brought into the room in advance so that it has time to acclimatize.
A few days or a week is enough for this.
Laying parquet boards on a concrete screed is a popular and widespread method of floor finishing, used all over the world. With the help of our guide and video in this article, you can understand the technology of such installation.
A wooden floor is always beautiful, original and warm. The unique atmosphere of comfort created is incomparable with other types of flooring. Parquet is used to create an individual, refined and noble floor covering. From piece parquet you can create a fashionable, unique pattern, which is why it is still popular today, despite the fact that laying block parquet is complex and time-consuming. However, it is not necessary to call a specialist; after studying the technology and following all the rules and recommendations, you can do all the installation work yourself. The task is also simplified by the fact that all modern parquet planks are made with a tongue-and-groove system, which helps to securely fasten the parquet elements together without gaps.
Not only the color scheme of the parquet depends on the type of wood, but also its durability, since different types of wood have different hardness and resistance to moisture. For example, pine and other conifers are not used for parquet production due to their exceptional softness. On pine parquet, even if it is covered with several layers of varnish, marks from heels and other sharp objects will remain.
The most common species used for parquet are oak, walnut, maple, cherry, ash, beech and others.
Classics of the genre. It is hard, resistant to moisture, has beautiful design, the color scheme of which may have various shades brown. The only drawback of oak is that it darkens over time. The rest of it performance characteristics on high. When purchasing oak parquet, pay attention to the duration of its drying; the accelerated drying option is not suitable.
It has the same hardness as oak, but at the same time has an even warm and soft yellowish or reddish tint, for which it is valued. Beech is a capricious breed. Under the influence of changes in temperature and humidity, it bends and deforms, so it requires careful care and compliance optimal conditions operation.
Maple parquet At first it appears white, but over time it turns a little yellow. In terms of hardness, it is practically not inferior to oak, and in some species this figure is even higher. You should pay attention to the drying time; quickly dried maple wood becomes deformed over time.
Cherry parquet - Brown with a distant shade of pink, but darkens slightly over time. It has less hardness than oak, however, it is quite popular because it can be easily processed and trimmed.
Exotic option. It is valued for its beautiful patterns in the cross-section of the trunk and for its extensive color scheme- all shades of brown. Merbau is not afraid of moisture, but is so saturated with resins that it is difficult to process.
Choose wood for parquet based on the operating conditions in a particular room. For example, cherry can be used in a child's room, maple in a den, and oak can be used everywhere. It is not at all necessary to make the entire parquet floor from one type of wood; you can combine it from different species different shades unique drawing.
Parquet planks are available in various sizes. The length of the plank can be 15 - 40 cm, width 3 - 9 cm, and thickness 1.5 - 2.2 cm.
It is necessary to select planks according to size, taking into account the area of the room: small planks will visually enlarge the room, and large ones will reduce it. From an installation point of view, the size of the planks is also important. If the parquet strips are large, then the number of joints will be smaller, but then the requirements for the quality of drying of the material will be much greater. The larger the bar, the less elasticity it has.
The optimal width of parquet planks is 5 cm. If it is necessary to use planks bigger size, buy those that have cuts on inside, they are more resistant to deformation.
What should you pay attention to when purchasing block parquet?:
The most durable and valuable are the planks of the so-called radial cut, i.e. loose along. A characteristic feature are straight lines on the surface and a solid color. Radial parquet is more expensive than other types.
All work on laying parquet begins only after finishing the ceiling and walls, laying communications and checking them for leaks. When laying parquet, certain humidity and temperature indicators must be observed. So the residual humidity of the walls should not be higher than 6%, the humidity of the floor should not be higher than 5%, and the relative humidity of the air should be 35 - 60%. Optimal temperature- 18 - 23 °C.
Failure to comply with these conditions will result in deformation of the coating. If you lay parquet at high humidity levels, it will swell and take on moisture. And when all the work is finished, over time it will dry out, begin to “shrink” and gaps will appear between the dies. Fixing this is much more difficult and expensive than doing everything right from the beginning.
The surface on which piece parquet will be laid must be perfectly flat, maximum error 1 mm per 1 m2.
includes the following stages of work:
All of the above measures must be completed, otherwise over time the parquet will dry out, begin to creak, or fall off altogether.
Preparing durable and level base, perhaps, one of the most important tasks in laying parquet. The durability of the coating as a whole will depend on the quality of the fastening surface. The cost of laying piece parquet, if you order it in profile construction organizations, usually does not include base preparation.
If parquet is to be laid on concrete floor, then the first thing you need to do is waterproof it. To do this, the surface of the floor slab must be covered with a superdiffusion membrane or 200 micron polyethylene film. The joints of the film sheet are made with an overlap of 15 - 20 cm and are taped with construction tape. The waterproofing film is applied to the walls by 10 - 15 cm and temporarily secured to it with tape.
Then you need to fill in the leveling screed, which will also serve as a mounting base for the plywood. The thickness of the screed should be 4 - 5 cm. It is imperative to check the horizontality of the coating and the absence of defects - holes, potholes, height differences and others.
Important! Before starting subsequent work, the screed must be completely dry. This will take about a month or two. You should not rush and continue laying parquet flooring, as the wood will draw moisture from the screed, and this will lead to inevitable deformations.
When the screed dries, its surface is covered with special primers, which increase the adhesion of the base to the glue and at the same time act as waterproofing.
Then moisture-resistant plywood with a thickness of 12 mm is taken and cut into squares of 50x50 cm or 75x75 cm.
Functions of moisture-resistant plywood under a piece package:
Important! The thickness of the plywood should be 5 mm less than the thickness of the parquet strip. But using sheets smaller than 12 mm is impractical; they do not perform their functions. In this case, you can lay the plywood in two layers, staggered.
Next, the surface of the screed is lubricated with glue and squares of plywood are laid on it, pressed tightly and fixed with dowel nails or self-tapping screws. It is imperative to leave at least a 1 - 1.5 mm gap between the squares of plywood to prevent deformation of the parquet if the plywood begins to expand.
It is also important to leave a gap of 2 - 3 mm between the wall and the plywood; this will be an expansion joint. You can insert special wedges into the gap to prevent the gap from moving.
It is not necessary to attach the plywood to concrete base, you can do it the old fashioned way - the floor is on joists. To do this, you don’t even have to level the concrete base. It is enough to waterproof it by spreading a waterproofing film.
Then the logs are laid in increments of 35 - 40 cm. You can use 50x50 or 50x80 mm timber as logs. The logs are secured to the floor using corners and dowels. In the process of laying the logs, it is necessary to ensure that their surface forms an even plane. To do this, in places where there are differences in heights of the concrete base, you can place wooden stands or trim off the excess.
When the logs are installed, plywood is nailed. Glue is no longer used here, only self-tapping screws. The step for attaching the plywood squares to the joists is 10 - 15 cm. It is necessary to nail the plywood not only at the edges, but also in the middle to all the joists. The gap between the squares is also required.
Before laying parquet on an old wooden floor, it must be checked to ensure it is in good condition. There should be no creaks, dips or other defects anywhere. If something similar is observed, it is necessary to partially dismantle the flooring and repair the joists. After the renovation is completed, the surface of the old wooden floor is sanded. Parquet can be laid directly on wooden base floor, without plywood.
The work of laying block parquet is very important; you cannot rush here, reducing the repair time. It’s better to take a break for a day or two or a week than to have to redo all the work. After all, one mistake and all the coverage is down the drain.
The technology of laying parquet involves several ways of laying it:
Floating method installation involves fastening parquet planks only to each other using a tongue-and-groove system. They are not attached to the base in any other way. To prevent such a floor from creaking, they lay soundproofing material, for example, a traffic jam. Parquet planks fixed in this way will expand and contract freely depending on temperature and humidity conditions. The floating floor is repairable - just disassemble it and put it back together. But the strength of such a coating is very doubtful; one is enough lock connection loosen so that the entire floor begins to warp and deform.
Laying parquet with glue It is considered more durable, but also less repairable. The base is generously lubricated with glue, then parquet flooring is laid, connecting with a tongue-and-groove system. This method is considered more labor-intensive and expensive due to the consumption of glue.
Installation with parquet adhesive and fastening with nails or self-tapping screws- the most durable and popular method. Such a floor is practically not subject to deformations, since they are restrained from all sides. But at the same time, it will no longer be possible to repair such parquet. All hope for a long service life.
To make the pattern on the parquet smooth and beautiful, it is advisable to draw it on paper. It is important to take into account the exact dimensions of the room and the parquet planks. If suddenly the drawing turns out that some row is not whole, then the drawing must be redone so that there are trimmed rows along the edges of the room, and only straight rows in the center.
The beginning of laying parquet also depends on the pattern. Let’s look at the example of a “Christmas tree”.
Important! During the installation process, the master must sit so that the tongue of the planks is located towards him.
All further work can be done after at least a week so that the glue has time to dry well. Although some experts recommend waiting six months, then the parquet planks themselves will take their final position.
The good thing about block parquet is that it can be laid in different patterns, placing the planks at different angles and in different sequences.
"Deck"- the easiest way to install. The planks are placed exactly, parallel to each other, offset by 1/3 or ½ of the length of the plank. The first plank is located near the wall; for a tighter fit, a tenon is sawed off from it.
"Herringbone"- the planks are connected to each other at an angle of 90 °. The planks should have two tenons - one on the longitudinal side, the second on the narrow end. There should also be two grooves on opposite sides. This method of laying is quite complicated, since the rows must be perfectly aligned.
"Squares" and “braid” are formed quite easily. First, 2/3/4 planks of parquet are joined together and laid, then the other 2/3/4 planks are connected, but laid perpendicular to the first. This way the rows alternate, creating an organic geometric pattern.
"Braided" with inserts from different breeds tree.
"Rhombuses" are laid from peculiar diamond-shaped parquet strips.
"Sheremetyevskaya Star" It is laid out from two types: rectangular planks and inclined diamond-shaped ones.
In addition to the above options, there are combinations of them with various shapes and patterns.
The price for laying block parquet depends on the layout of the planks. The simplest “deck” layout costs 7.5 - 8 USD. for 1 m2, “herringbone” will cost 9 USD. per meter, and artistic parquet can cost from 17 USD up to 35 USD and even more. All these prices are indicated without preparatory work and further finishing - grinding and varnishing. The average cost of laying parquet with sanding and varnishing is 17 USD. for 1 m2.
Grinding is necessary in order to make the surface as smooth as possible and remove defects that arise during the work. Grinding can be done with special grinding machines or an ordinary grinder with a circle of sandpaper. Of course, the option with a grinder is more preferable, and there will be less dust.
The first and second time grinding is carried out large grain to cut off large uneven areas. Third time - fine grain to achieve smoothness of the coating and remove roughness that appeared after the first sanding. Then the floor must be thoroughly vacuumed, removing all fine dust.
It doesn’t hurt to fill all the cracks in the parquet, even if there are no visible large defects. The entire floor is rubbed with a special wood putty, all cracks and irregularities are filled. After drying, the floor must be sanded again with fine grain and excess putty must be removed. Then the floor is vacuumed again. To improve the adhesion of the varnish to the parquet and at the same time ensure that the varnish does not penetrate deep into the wood structure, the surface of the putty parquet floor is coated with a primer.
The varnish protects the wood from moisture and mechanical impact. The total number of layers of varnish on parquet can be from 3 to 9. The more layers, the deeper the image. The varnish is applied with a roller to the entire surface at once, after which the floor is left to dry thoroughly for 24 - 36 hours. It is necessary to carry out varnishing work in clean soft shoes.
Important! While the varnish is drying, do not open the windows or leave them open. entrance doors, turn on air conditioning, ventilation, or otherwise provide a draft. The varnish should dry in as windless conditions as possible.
All subsequent layers of varnish are also applied with a roller with a drying interval of 24 - 36 hours for each layer. The last layer must dry for at least a week so that you can walk on it carefully, and you can bring furniture into the room only after at least a month, or even two.
Parquet varnish can be glossy or matte. Glossy makes the floor shine, brightens the room and highlights the pattern. Matt lacquer used to reduce the brightness of the pattern on wood and to create an atmosphere of warm comfort.
Laying block parquet can cost approximately 2 to 4 times more than laying solid boards. But at the same time, the coating will be more refined and durable, and there is also less risk of squeaking. The key to success in creating beautiful, prestigious parquet is the patience of the craftsman.
Anton Tsugunov
Reading time: 4 minutes
Parquet is valued for its wear resistance, durability and attractive appearance, and at the same time it is one of the most expensive and capricious floor coverings. Its professional installation will also be expensive, so many people decide to install the parquet floor themselves. Strict adherence to the instructions will allow you to avoid errors in operation and ensure ideal condition this luxurious coating will last for many years. Let's look at the most commonly used technology and find out how parquet is laid on a concrete screed
Parquet is called planed, perfectly smooth boards made of solid wood. This material It is one of the elite ones, and accordingly its price is quite high. The planks have the following dimensions:
More affordable and less picky in relation to subfloor The material is parquet board. It is a multi-layer coating, the top layer of which is made of valuable wood veneer, and the 2 lower layers are coniferous species wood. The length of such boards is up to 220 cm, and the width is up to 25 cm.
Laying parquet on a screed – effective solution for floor covering equipment. However, before making it, the reasonableness of such a decision should be carefully assessed. After all, wood is natural natural material, very susceptible to temperature fluctuations, high humidity. Therefore, it is reasonable to use it only in rooms with guaranteed suitable temperature and humidity conditions.
If it is too dry, the parquet dries out, loses its shape and appearance, cracks form, and if you lay it in a damp room, the parquet planks will rise when saturated with moisture. Optimal parameters:
The technology of laying parquet on a concrete screed, subject to all necessary nuances not particularly difficult. Conventionally, the process can be divided into several stages.
Important! Parquet can be laid directly on the screed only if the conditions of low humidity of the base are met - up to 6%, or even better - up to 3%. It is highly recommended to use an additional layer of plywood, chipboard or OSB.
It is recommended to lay parquet on a screed without plywood in two ways - using brackets or using the tension method. It is not worth gluing the planks due to the large difference in the thermal expansion of the materials. If you still decide to use an adhesive composition, it must be elastic.
Parquet boards can be safely laid on a concrete floor without using a plywood backing. To find out, we recommend watching the training video:
Cases where the base surface ( concrete slab) perfectly flat (permissible difference - no more than 1 mm per m2), hard and dry, extremely rare. Therefore, block parquet is laid not on concrete, but on cement-sand screed, or its analogue – .
Additionally, the subfloor is inspected for cracks and other imperfections, which are filled with putty or cement mortar.
Please note that before laying parquet, it is necessary to completely clean the surface of the base from remnants of old coatings, oil stains, construction and household debris. It must be removed from dust, carefully cleaned, and treated with a primer.
Important! A freshly poured screed should be given time to dry. If its thickness is up to 5 cm, then it will take 4–6 weeks.
After the base has been prepared, a special film with waterproofing properties should be laid on it. The strips are laid with an overlap of approximately 20 cm. The edges are secured using tape, and the film supply is placed on the wall for laying under the baseboard. The underlay used during the installation of laminate or parquet boards is not suitable for parquet.
The role of restrictive wedges is performed by a special self-adhesive rubber cord, which is installed around the perimeter of the room. The same element compensates for possible thermal expansion of the slats.
If you decide not to take risks and lay a stabilizing plywood layer on the screed, which will protect the parquet from swelling and damage, do the following:
The parquet planks are brought into the room where the work will be carried out several days before it begins for the purpose of acclimatization.
At proper preparation base, laying parquet on a screed should not cause any difficulties. This process must begin from the end side towards the window.
If we lay planks on a screed using steel brackets, then the procedure is approximately as follows:
If we're talking about about stretched parquet laid on a screed, the procedure is as follows:
When using plywood flooring laid on a screed, the planks are attached to it using parquet glue applied with a special spatula. Next, it is recommended to shoot the parquet flooring along the edge - several pins or nails per element. This will not only make the fastening more reliable, but will also allow you to squeeze out excess glue and ensure a more uniform fit of the planks.
After installation, the floor covering must undergo a rough sanding procedure. Before it, all minor defects, cracks and chips are covered with putty. Then the base is refined using fine-grained grinding machine attachments.
The completion of the frame decoration of the room is the installation of a parquet board on a concrete base. To create a warm cozy interior- This is an inexpensive and environmentally friendly solution. Wood retains heat well; product collections have many colors, textures and shades of natural wood. You can install parquet boards on concrete floors yourself, if you adhere to the chosen installation technology that is suitable for the specific room.
Today, two product modifications are offered: solid parquet boards and multilayer parquet boards. The fundamental difference is that the second, due to its production method, is significantly more resistant to changes in temperature and humidity operating conditions, while the first can potentially withstand more grinding cycles. The top layer of both materials is valuable wood species (beech, hornbeam, maple, oak, etc.). However, the possible list of wood species of the top layer (thickness 0.5 - 6 mm) of multilayer products is much wider, including especially valuable and exotic types of wood.
During production, elements of a locking system (tongue and groove) are formed in each board, which makes installation easy. The mutually perpendicular arrangement of fibers (2 - 3 layers) of materials creates anti-deformation stability of the boards, which is not ensured massive board. Geometric dimensions The products of both types do not differ significantly. However, methods for producing multilayer boards offer many options. decorative design(depending on the number of rows of dies placed in the decorative outer layer of one product): three-row, two-row and single-row (visual analogue of natural dies) parquet.
The installation process determines quality and reliability parquet flooring. Regardless of the quality of the parquet board, adhesives, installation and fixation methods, the concrete base must be level (height differences no more than 2 mm per 1 linear meter). The slope of the screed surface to the horizontal plane should be no more than 0.2% of the length of the room, within 0.5 cm of the total difference.
If the defects are not eliminated, the coating will begin to creak, and lock system wear out prematurely. Low humidity (no more than 5%) of the screed is important. The optimum humidity in the installation room is 40 - 60% at temperatures of 18 - 23 degrees. The parquet board is stored unpacked for 2 days in the room where it will be laid; the packaging is removed before installing the covering.
Parquet flooring is installed on a concrete floor, and is also height adjustable wood materials(logs, screw racks). There are several methods for installing parquet flooring: adhesive, floating, using fasteners. In the first two options, a solid underlay is laid out and parquet with boards is placed on top. With the latter method, the planks are mounted directly on the joists (distance 0.3 - 0.4 m) or on multilayer plywood laid on the joists (planks more than 2 cm thick are used). The floating method involves the use of only locking connections for connecting planks.
Continuous thermal and waterproofing substrates are laid under the boards, which additionally provide shock absorption. The method is used in rooms up to 60 m2. With the adhesive method, the planks are fastened to the supporting substrate and to each other. Used as a basis moisture-resistant types plywood. The method of installing the covering using fasteners involves fixing the planks to the base with special hardware at an angle of 45 degrees. The fasteners should not interfere with the joining of the dies to each other.
Scheme for laying parquet boards using the “floating floor” method. On the floor (plywood sheets 20 mm high, which are rigidly attached to the concrete base) is placed waterproofing layer, for example, polyethylene film 200 microns thick. Its continuous surface is formed by placing pieces of film overlapping (an overlap of 0.15 - 0.2 m) and gluing the joints with tape. There is also an overlap of 0.1 - 0.15 m on the walls. The waterproofing is covered with a backing made of cork (polyethylene foam or dense polystyrene foam). Mats made of cork and expanded polystyrene are placed end-to-end, but staggered, and sheets of foamed polyethylene are overlapped and glued with tape.
Sheets plywood base installed staggered with gaps of up to 5 mm and a distance from the walls of 10 - 15 mm. Parquet floors can be laid parallel to the walls or diagonally (material consumption increases). Installation is preceded by calculations to determine the best direction for installing the dies and their width in the last row (they should not be visually narrow). The dies are joined with a tongue-and-groove connection. The wall along its entire length should also be separated from the floor covering by a gap (width 15 - 30 mm) - a compensator for the expansion of the material.
A tenon facing the wall is cut from the planks of the first row. A row of panels is assembled by inserting the tenon of the next die under acute angle into the groove of the bar in front. A tight connection is achieved by striking the block with a hammer. After assembling the first row, wedges are placed between it and the wall.
The second row of planks is mounted staggered (the end seams are shifted by 1/3 of the length of the dies in each row) with the first. The running step may be different. To do this, the first die in it is made shorter by 1/3 of the length. This row is assembled as a whole and then connected to the first.
The tenons of the dies of the second row are inserted at a slight angle into the grooves of the first row, after which the connection is sealed with a hammer through a block or clamp. In the third row, the outer die is shortened by 2/3 of the length. In the 4th row, the outer die is installed intact. Further work on the installation of rows proceeds in a “one to four” cycle.
The boards of the last row are narrowed in width (taking into account the gap between them and the wall). The grooves of the dies can be glued. This will increase the reliability of the connections, but will prevent the forced replacement of damaged elements. Lastly, the wedges are removed from the walls, which will close the expansion gaps.
Laying parquet using the adhesive method. The parquet floor is installed, starting with applying glue to a layer of moisture-resistant plywood that is pre-rigidly screwed to the screed. The substrate, cut into small sheets, is installed on the concrete base staggered with gaps of up to 5 mm between them and the formation of a compensation gap with the wall. The technology provides for rigid fixation of everything with glue solid wood dies. The greatest strength and reliability are provided by two-component polyurethane adhesives. They are safe when dry, but toxic when used.
The scope of application of the installation method is premises with a large area. Laying of the covering strips is carried out according to a pre-selected pattern. Installation is similar to the floating method. However, the dies from the second row are not assembled into rows, but are installed as a set. The glue is applied to the plywood and dies with a notched trowel. The grooves at the ends of the panels are also filled with adhesive.
Then the parquet panel is mounted into the lock, pressed into the glue, leveled in height and achieved with hammer blows. Then all subsequent ones are laid out in a similar way. The dies are additionally reinforced with pneumatic nails into the groove so that there is no interference with the connection. The leaked glue is removed immediately. After 7 days, the floors are scraped, sanded and puttied. Wall gaps are filled with elastic compensator material (cork). Finally, the surface is primed, covered with wax (oil) or varnished. Skirting boards are mounted to the walls using clamps.
