The invention relates to forging and pressing equipment, namely, to devices for supporting the sheet when cutting with scissors. A device for supporting a sheet when cutting with scissors contains a frame, supports placed along the side edges of the sheet and connected to the upper knife beam, the supporting surfaces of which are directed towards the longitudinal axis of the sheet, and mechanisms for rotating each of the supports around the longitudinal axis. It contains guides fixed to the frame, sliders installed in these guides with the possibility of vertical movement from the upper knife beam, and return elements associated with them, each support at one end is fixed to the frame at its sides with the possibility of simultaneous rotation in the vertical plane and around the longitudinal axis, and the connection of the supports with the upper knife beam is made by means of sliders rigidly fixed at the other end of each support. The supports are each equipped with a locking element, its supporting surface has a width of at least one third of the working space of the scissors, and the mechanism for rotating the supports is made in the form of a converter of translational movement of the support into rotational movement. The said converter can be made in the form of a flexible element covering the support, fixed at one end to the frame and the other on the supporting surface, or in the form of a rack and pinion gear, the gear of which is mounted on the support, and the rack is fixed to the frame. The return element is made in the form of a spring or a power cylinder, the element for fixing the support is made in the form of a ratchet or cam mechanism, and the supporting surface is in the form of pins with rollers. 7 salary f-ly, 6 ill.
The invention relates to press-forging equipment, namely, to devices for supporting sheets when cutting with scissors. A device for supporting a sheet when cutting with scissors is known (AS N 1563863, class B 23 D 33/02, 01/04/87). The known device contains a frame, supports with supporting elements, and a mechanism for rotating the supports around their longitudinal axis. In the known device, the supporting elements are cantilevered from the end of the sheet, which does not allow cutting thick sheets, since they will cause deflection of the supports at the initial moment of lowering the knife (under the influence of the total weight of the knife and supports) and, consequently, a decrease in cutting accuracy and an increase in and increasing the load on the lower knife. In addition, with such a structural design of the supports, the range of cut sheets in width is small, since the length of the supporting elements is short (when rotated, they must fit into the working space of the scissors). A device for supporting a sheet when cutting with scissors is also known, which is closest to the claimed one in terms of technical essence and achieved effect, see a.s. N 893422, class B 23D 33/02, 01/30/80. (prototype). In the known device, the supports are fastened at two points and they are located on the sides of the sheet, and their supporting surfaces are directed towards the longitudinal axis of the sheet. This makes it possible to eliminate the deflection of the sheet and expand the range of processed sheets in width, however, with this arrangement of supports, they must be lowered at the end of the working stroke. For this purpose, in the known device, the supports are fixed to the upper knife beam and are lowered with it. At the same time, the range of processed workpieces in terms of thickness is significantly reduced, because a large workpiece weight requires a more massive device, the weight of which will cause lateral loads on the guides of the upper knife beam, hence their increased wear, and most importantly, it reduces the main vertical cutting force, thereby worsening the performance characteristics of the scissors. The supporting surfaces of the supports in the known device represent one of the flanges (bottom) of a standard corner profile and the cut sheet is supported along the edges, which can cause longitudinal deflection when cutting wide sheets and reduce cutting accuracy. In addition, with such support (along the edges), manipulation of the sheet is practically eliminated, which makes it impossible to perform oblique cuts. A disadvantage of the known device is also the need to readjust it when changing the width of the sheet. The basis of the invention is to create a device for supporting a sheet, the fastening and movement of the supports of which would not place additional loads on the guides of the upper knife beam, and the design of the supporting surfaces would eliminate deflection of the sheet and ensure the processing and free manipulation of sheets of the widest range of widths and thicknesses at performing oblique cuts and would not require readjustment when changing the sheet size. This problem is solved by the fact that a known device for supporting a sheet when cutting with scissors, including a frame, supports placed along the side edges of the sheet and connected to the upper knife beam, the supporting surfaces of which are directed to the longitudinal axis of the sheet, a mechanism for rotating each of the supports around the longitudinal axis , according to the invention, is equipped with guides fixed to the frame, sliders installed in these guides with the possibility of vertical movement from the upper knife beam, and return elements associated with them, each support is fixed at one end to the frame at its sides with the possibility of simultaneous rotation vertical plane and around the longitudinal axis, and the connection of the supports with the upper knife beam is made by means of sliders rigidly fixed at the other end of each support, while the supports are each equipped with a locking element, their supporting surface has a width of at least one third of the working space of the scissors, and the mechanism support rotation is made in the form of a converter of translational movement of the support into rotational movement. In this case, it is advisable to make the supporting surface of each of the supports in the form of pins, one of the ends of which is rigidly fixed to the support, and the second is equipped with rollers; According to one of the options, it is advisable to convert the translational movement of the support into rotational one in the form of a flexible element, one of the ends of which is rigidly fixed to the frame, and the other to the supporting surface. In another embodiment, the mentioned converter is made in the form of a rack and pinion transmission, the gear of which is mounted on a support, and the rack is fixed to the frame. It is reasonable to make the return element in the form of a spring, one of the ends of which is fixed to the frame, and the second is connected to the slider. In another embodiment, the return element is a power cylinder fixed to the frame, the rod of which is connected to the slider. The locking element is made in the form of a ratchet mechanism, the wheel of which is mounted on a support, and the pawl is made in the form of a double-armed lever mounted on an axis with the possibility of contacting the upper knife beam during the working stroke of the knife. In another embodiment, the locking element is a cam mechanism, the cam of which is fixed to a support, and the roller is made in the form of a double-armed lever mounted on an axis with the possibility of contact with the movable upper knife beam during the working stroke of the knife, and, as in the first embodiment, the axis is fixed in the slider. In the following, the invention is illustrated by examples of its specific implementation and drawings, where figure 1 schematically shows a general view of the proposed device; Fig.2 is the same, top view; Fig. 3 is a support rotation mechanism, version with a flexible element, view B-B; Fig.4 schematically shows the second embodiment of the support rotation mechanism, with a toothed rack; Fig.5 shows a mechanism for moving the free end of the support in a vertical plane and a locking element that serves to fix the horizontal position of the supporting surfaces; Fig.6 shows the support attachment point. The device for supporting a sheet when cutting with scissors contains two supports 1, fixed at one end to the frame 2 along the side edges of the sheet 3 being cut. The supports 1 on the frame 2 are secured using a double hinge 4 (Fig. 6), or a ball joint (not shown) . Each of the supports 1 has a supporting surface fixed to the longitudinal axis of the sheet 3, formed by pins 5, rigidly attached to the support 1 and equipped with rollers 6. The distances between the pins 5 are selected to prevent transverse deflection of the sheet 3, in this case 400 mm. The length of pins 5 is at least one third of the working space of the scissors. The maximum length is selected from the condition of preventing the pins 5 from bending under the influence of the weight of the sheet 3, and they should not interfere with each other when turning. The diameter of the pins 5 is also selected from the conditions for ensuring the necessary rigidity when processing sheet 3 maximum thickness from the nomenclature used. Supports 1 are placed in close proximity to the sides of the frame 2 for more rational use workspace. This placement of supports 1, the dimensions and design of the supporting surfaces make it possible to cut sheets of any thickness and width and freely manipulate them to obtain any cutting direction when working on markings. On the bracket 8 of the frame 2 there are guides 9, on which a slider 10 with a protrusion 11 is installed with the possibility of reciprocating movement to interact with the pressure element 12 of the upper pressure beam 13. The free end of the support 1 is rigidly connected to the corresponding slider 10, which, in turn, , its lower (according to the figure) end interacts with the return element, made in the form of a power cylinder 14, the rod 15 of which is connected to the slider 10 (Fig. 1), or in the form of a spring (not shown), connected at its ends, respectively, to the frame 2 and slider 10. The mechanism for rotating the support 1 around its longitudinal axis is made in the form of any known converter of translational motion into rotational motion. According to one option, this is a flexible element 16, covering the support 1. One of the ends of the said element. One of the ends of the said element 16 is fixed to the frame bracket 2, and the second to one of the pins 5 (Fig. 3). In another embodiment, this is a rack and pinion mechanism, the gear wheel of which 18 is fixed to the support 1, and the rack 19 is on the frame 2. A ratchet wheel (not shown) or, in another embodiment, a cam 20 is rigidly fixed to the support 1 and interacts with a two-armed lever 21 with a pawl (not shown) or, respectively, with a roller, and the said lever 21 is fixed to the axis 22 of the slider 10. On the double-armed lever 21 there is a protrusion 23 for interacting with the pressure element 12 of the upper movable knife beam 13, equipped with a knife 24. The device operates as follows: sheet 3 moves along the supporting surface formed by pins 5 with rollers 6 at a distance specified by the markings, and the presence of rollers 6 facilitates manipulation of sheet 3 when making oblique cuts, as well as feeding a wide sheet 3. After installing sheet 3 in the required position, the feed is turned on and the upper movable knife beam 13 moves down. The pressure element 12 slightly presses the protrusion 23 of the double-armed lever 21, which, turning around the axis 22, disengages from the cam 20 mounted on the support 1 and releases it. This moment coincides with the beginning of cutting of sheet 3. At this initial moment of cutting, supports 1 are kept from rotation by flexible elements 16, as a result of which the supporting surfaces of pins 5 are located horizontally and support sheet 3, excluding its longitudinal and transverse deflection. With the further stroke of the knife 24, the pressure element 12 acts on the protrusion 11 of the slider 10 and the latter begins to move downwards in the guides 9 of the bracket 8 (according to the figure), moving the associated support 1 in the vertical plane due to the hinged fastening of its end to the frame 2. Rod 15 power cylinder 14 also moves down. At the moment the supports 1 move down, the converters of their translational movement into rotational movement begin to work, the tension of the flexible elements 16 of which, due to the rigid fastening of their ends, weakens when the supports 1 are lowered, which allows the pins 5 under the influence of their own weight and the weight of the sheets 3 to rotate 90 degrees in vertical plane and go down. In this case, the supports 1 simultaneously rotate around the longitudinal axis, occupying an inclined position to ensure free movement of the knife 24. Because only one of the ends of the supports 1 moves down, the mechanism for their movement, individual for each support 1, has small overall dimensions and requires virtually no effort from the upper knife beam 13 during their interaction, moreover, it is fixed to the frame 2, in therefore, unwanted vertical loads on the upper knife beam 13 are completely eliminated. After cutting the workpiece, the movable upper knife beam 13 moves upward. Rod 15 of power cylinder 14 under pressure working environment returns to its original position by moving the sliders and associated supports upward (along the picture). In another embodiment, the reverse movement of the sliders 10 occurs when the spring straightens (not shown). When the supports move upward, the flexible elements 16 are tensioned and, sliding along the supports, rotate them around the longitudinal axis, by the pins 5, on which one of the ends of the mentioned elastic elements 16 is fixed. The supporting surface occupies a horizontal position. According to one of the options, the rotation of the support 1 to bring the supporting surfaces into a horizontal position is carried out during the movement of the gear wheels 18 attached to the supports 1 along the racks 19 (Fig. 4). Then the cycle repeats. Thus, fastening the supports on the frame and moving down only their ends, located in the zone of action of the knife, by means of sliders, also attached to the frame, makes it possible to simplify the movement mechanism and prevent the occurrence of loads from the weight of the device and the sheet, causing lateral force on the guides of the upper knife beam, which reduces the main cutting force, worsening the performance of the scissors. The presence of a locking element makes it possible to hold the supports with supporting surfaces in a horizontal position at the initial moment of cutting, thereby eliminating the deflection of the sheet, which causes a decrease in cutting accuracy. Making the supporting surface in the form of pins reduces the metal consumption of the device. Equipping the pins with rollers makes sheet feeding and handling easier. The length of the pins is at least one third of the working space of the scissors, which allows you to process sheets of any width, passing them either along one of the sides if their width is less than one third of the working space, or in the middle, if the sheet width is more than one third of the working space, or if necessary process two narrow sheets at the same time, and also freely manipulate them when making oblique cuts, and when changing the standard size of the sheet, no readjustment of the device is required, which increases the productivity of the scissors. The implementation of the mechanism for rotating the supports in the form of a converter of translational movement of the ends of the supports in the vertical plane into a rotational one allows for the combination of these actions in time, which increases the productivity of the scissors. It is preferable to make this converter in the form of a flexible element, one of the ends of which is rigidly fixed to the frame, and the other to the supporting surface, which simplifies the design.
Claim
1. A device for supporting a sheet when cutting with scissors, containing a frame, supports placed along the side edges of the sheet and connected to the upper knife beam, the supporting surfaces of which are directed towards the longitudinal axis of the sheet, and mechanisms for rotating each of the supports around the longitudinal axis, characterized in that that it is equipped with guides fixed to the frame, sliders installed in these guides with the possibility of vertical movement from the upper knife beam and return elements associated with them, each support at one end is fixed to the frame at its sides with the possibility of simultaneous rotation in the vertical plane and around the longitudinal axis, and the connection of the supports with the upper knife beam is made by means of sliders rigidly fixed at the other end of each support, while the supports are each equipped with a locking element, its supporting surface has a width of at least one third of the working space of the scissors, and the support rotation mechanism is made in in the form of a converter of translational movement of the support into rotational movement. 2. The device according to claim 1, characterized in that the supporting surfaces of the supports are made in the form of pins, one of the ends of which is rigidly fixed to the support, and the second is equipped with rollers. 3. The device according to claim 1, characterized in that the translational to rotational displacement converter is made in the form of a flexible element covering the support, one of the ends of which is rigidly fixed to the frame, and the other to the supporting surface. 4. The device according to claim 1, characterized in that the translational to rotational displacement converter is made in the form of a rack and pinion gear, the gear of which is mounted on a support, and the rack is fixed to the frame, and the working length of the rack corresponds to the working stroke of the knife. 5. Device according to claims. 1 4, characterized in that the return element is made in the form of a power cylinder fixed to the frame, the rod of which is connected to the slider. 6. Device according to claims. 1 4, characterized in that the return element is made in the form of a spring, one of the ends of which is fixed to the frame, and the second is connected to the slider. 7. The device according to claim 1, characterized in that each element for fixing the support is made in the form of a ratchet mechanism, the wheel of which is mounted on the support, and the pawl is made in the form of a double-armed lever mounted on an axis with the possibility of contacting with the upper movable knife beam during the working stroke of the knife, and the axis is fixed in the slider. 8. The device according to claim 1, characterized in that the elements for fixing the supports are made in the form of a cam mechanism, the cam of which is fixed to the corresponding support, and the roller is made in the form of a double-armed lever mounted on an axis with the possibility of contacting with the upper movable knife beam during the working stroke of the knife, and the axis is fixed in the slider.
Knife– a cutting tool consisting of a handle and a blade (the working part of the knife), and the sharpened part of the blade is called the blade.
Cleaver- resembles an ax rather than a knife itself - it has a wide and heavy rectangular blade designed for chopping. The cleaver is used for cutting meat along with sinews and large bones, as well as for other heavy kitchen work.
Scissors– used when cutting fish, for cutting herbs, spices, and mushrooms. Using scissors, you can quickly and conveniently cut herbs while controlling the size of the pieces.
Secateurs– special scissors for cutting poultry.
Peeler– has a very short blade (no more than 10 cm), which makes the knife compact and makes it easier to work with. There are options with a concave (for potatoes) and straight (for vegetables and fruits) cutting edge. This type of knives can have both smooth and serrated sharpening.
Mezzaluna- a special knife consisting of 1-2 curved blades with handles at the ends, shaped like a crescent. A mezzaluna with one blade is used for cutting pizza, and a model with two blades is used for chopping meat into minced meat and finely chopping herbs or spices.
Universal– has a blade middle length with a rounded cutting edge. The sharpening in such knives is usually smooth. A utility knife is suitable for most tasks that arise during simple home cooking: peeling vegetables, slicing bread and meat (including thin slicing), and so on.
Povarskaya– in appearance, such a knife resembles a universal one, but differs in a more massive and wide blade (and sometimes longer). A chef's knife is also used for a variety of tasks, especially for cutting large pieces.
Cutting– similar to the universal model, but its blade may be longer. Additionally, the point of a carving knife is usually placed in the center of the blade. Used for cutting large pieces of meat and fish, massive vegetables and fruits, such as melons and watermelons.
Boning– has a long thin blade, widened at the handle. This knife is designed for separating meat from the bone (can also be used for cutting poultry). The sharpening of boning knives is generally smooth.
For bread– characterized by a long blade of the same width and a serrated cutting edge. This allows you to cut the softest bread with virtually no crushing.
For fillet– has a long, thin and flexible blade with a smooth sharpening, shaped like the blades of universal or boning models. This knife is perfect for carefully slicing large pieces of fish and meat, separating fillets from bones and skins from meat.
For slicing– the blade of this knife resembles the blade of a boning knife: long and thin, widening towards the handle. Used for thinly slicing meat, fish, poultry, and ham.
For the steak– has a small blade with a slightly upward-curved tip and a serrated cutting edge. It is more of a cutlery than a kitchen knife, as it is used for cutting the finished dish.
For oil– characterized by a wide blade rounded at the front without a point. This knife is more of a cutlery than a kitchen knife.
For cheese– has an upward-curved blade with large holes, which prevents soft types of cheese from sticking to it. This knife has a double edge, made in the shape of a fork for convenient transfer of cut pieces. The grind on cheese knives is usually serrated.
For sandwiches (sandwiches)– has a blade of medium length with a slightly curved tip and a serrated cutting edge.
For decoration– features a wavy blade. Its purpose is decorative cutting of vegetables, butter, cheese.
For tomatoes– has a small blade of a regular shape. This knife is designed for cutting soft vegetables and fruits with thick skin and soft core (apples, lemons, cucumbers). The cutting edge is always serrated, which allows you to cut soft foods without crushing them.
Most Japanese knives have a wide blade with a cutting edge located below the handle.
Santoku– universal option Japanese knife. The length of the blade is 14-18 cm. This knife can be used for cutting into thin slices and cubes, as well as for crumbling and chopping. A good option for meat, fish and vegetables. The sharpening of the Santoku is smooth, but much sharper than regular knives.
Deba- a heavy knife, differing from the santoku by a longer blade (16.5-22 cm). Deba is used mainly for filleting fish (you can also fillet poultry, but it is not advisable to chop the bones).
Nakiri– a knife for cutting vegetables with a blade length of 12-18 cm. A good option for household work.
Gyuto- Japanese analogue of a multi-purpose chef's knife. Blade length – 18-30 cm.
Serrated– serrated sharpening blade. Such a blade can cut food well, even when dull: the teeth “bite” into the product and the knife works like a saw. This significantly extends the life of the knife. Serrated blade knives are ideal for slicing soft vegetables and fruits or slicing fresh bread. However, the capabilities of such a knife are not as wide as those of analogues with a smooth blade, and it is impossible to sharpen the teeth.
Important: There are knives with semi-serrated blades, when the teeth do not occupy the entire cutting edge. This gives them great versatility.
With holes– found in cheese knives and some universal models. Such blades make it easy to separate the thinnest slice from the knife.
Notched– found in santoku and some utility knives. The purpose of the grooves is similar to the previous type of blade: to reduce the adhesion of the product to the knife.
Important: When choosing a knife, pay attention to the surface of the blade. There should be no scratches or nicks on it.
Stainless steel– occurs in two types:
Carbon (laminated) steel– three-layer steel, consisting of relatively soft stainless steel (lining) and hard high-carbon steel (core). So flexibility of stainless steel compensates for the fragility of high carbon while maintaining the hardness of the blade. In addition, the blade is easy to sharpen. However, such a knife is sensitive to shock loads (that is, it is not suitable for chopping) and is not cheap.
Important Note: Do not use hot water to wash carbon steel knives.
Damascus steel– consists of several layers with different carbon contents. This steel is very durable, has a long service life, excellent flexibility, and in addition it is characterized by a beautiful pattern. At the same time, due to the complexity of production, the cost of such knives increases significantly.
Polymer coated steel– as a rule, a stamped steel blade with a special coating applied. It prevents food from sticking, protects the steel blade from corrosion and gives the knife an impressive appearance. In addition, this blade is easy to clean. On the other side, polymer coating prone to abrasion, so many advantages are quickly lost.
Ceramics– is characterized by high hardness, which gives such blades greater sharpness and ensures long-term preservation sharpening. Ceramic blades are lighter than their steel counterparts and are not susceptible to scratches. However, ceramics are sensitive to shocks and falls (may break). In addition, the cost of such knives and their sharpening is very high.
Important: Ceramic knives should only be stored in paper cases to avoid exposure to sunlight.
Plastic– is rare. These blades are suitable for cutting very soft foods, such as butter, some vegetables and fruits.
Length
The type and purpose of the knife depends on this parameter. For example, in vegetable peelers the blade length is no more than 12 cm, while in bread knives it is usually no less than 20 cm. The length is measured from the tip to the neck - the thickening between the blade and the handle. If you choose between models of the same type, then a knife with a longer blade allows you to work with large pieces of food, but is less convenient and costs more.
Steel hardness
The purpose of the knife and the sharpening of the blade depend on this indicator. For example, a knife with too low a hardness can only work with very soft products and is unable to hold an edge for a long time. The hardness of steel is measured on the Rockwell scale and designated as HRC. Steel hardness range kitchen knives varies between 48-57 HRC. For comparison: hunting knives– 58-62 HRC, for axes 62-70 HRC.
Sharpening
One-sided– the blade is sharpened on one side, which allows you to achieve the thinnest and sharpest cutting edge. Hunting and Japanese knives are sharpened in this way.
Double-sided– the classic and most common option for sharpening kitchen knives.
Bilateral asymmetric– characterized by the fact that the right side of the cutting edge differs from the left.
Mounted– the blade of the knife continues in the pin onto which the handle is mounted. This handle can be given any look, which means almost unlimited design possibilities.
Invoice– the knife blade goes into a steel strip, on which plastic or wooden plates are placed on both sides. This is a more durable version of the handle.
Solid forged– the blade of the knife and the handle form a single whole. The most durable type of handle.
Important: The knife blade must run along the entire length of the handle.
Lining material
Plastic- an inexpensive and fairly durable material that can be given any relief and color. In addition, it is resistant to moisture, does not oxidize and is easy to clean. Thanks to all these qualities, plastic has become a widespread material and is found in most knives in the low and mid-price segment.
Tree– an impressive-looking, durable and shock- and drop-resistant material. On the other hand, it is sensitive to moisture, which is why it loses its advantages and is affected by mold, which is unacceptable for kitchen utensils. Therefore, knives with such handles cannot be washed in dishwashers. Wood is found either in the cheapest models, or in very expensive ones, where specially treated elite wood species are used.
Stainless steel– highly durable, pleasant-looking and hygienic material. However, steel handles are more likely to slip out of your hands than plastic and wooden ones.
Stainless steel with cover plate– combines all the advantages of the previous option with greater reliability in operation, since the lining made of rubber, corrugated plastic and other similar material reduces the likelihood of the knife slipping out of your hands.
Purpose holder– keep knives in one place and position, which simplifies their storage and operation.
Block– a wooden block with holes for different types knives and kitchen scissors. A classic and compact holder that is most often found. At the same time, wood is sensitive to moisture, which negatively affects the hygiene of the block.
Magnetic– a magnetic strip to which the knives are attached. Unlike a pad, which can be placed almost anywhere, a magnetic holder can only be mounted on the wall. On the one hand, this saves space on the kitchen table, on the other hand, installing a magnetic holder is more difficult. In addition, the knives are likely to come into contact with the wall, which is undesirable.
Scissors – used for cutting fish, cutting herbs, spices, and mushrooms. Using scissors, you can quickly and conveniently cut herbs or certain dishes (for example, pizza), while controlling the size of the pieces.
Important: when choosing scissors, you should pay attention to the following details:
Secateurs– special scissors for cutting poultry, fish or rabbit. The pruning shears have a recess at the base of the blades for cutting through bones, which makes working with thick poultry or rabbit bones much easier. The handles of such scissors move apart in different sides using a special spring, and the corresponding lock holds the blades in a closed state.
Important: when choosing a pruner, pay attention to its handles - they should be embossed. Such handles will not slip even from wet hands.
For slicing(slicer) - the blade of this knife resembles the blade of a boning knife: long and thin, widening towards the handle. Used for thinly slicing meat, fish, poultry, and ham.
Sharpening– careful processing of the knife blade to restore its former sharpness. Sharpening is required for dull knives. It is recommended to sharpen the knife once a month (or once every 2 months), based on the frequency of its use.
Edit– more simple work, giving the knife even greater sharpness. Editing is done with fairly sharp knives. To avoid breakage and deterioration of the cutting properties of the knife, it should be trimmed before and after use.
Tools
Sharpening stone- the simplest and almost eternal adaptation. Working with a bar requires a significant investment of effort and time (minimum 30 minutes). Another disadvantage is the need to determine and maintain the optimal sharpening angle (20-25°) during operation. This skill only comes with experience.
There are many types of sharpening stones - ceramic, natural (usually quartz), diamond, Japanese water stones. The best, most durable and most expensive are diamond sharpening stones. But you can also use ceramic bars, which, although inexpensive, are very resistant to wear.
Important: the main characteristic of a sharpening stone is the number of abrasive grains per 1 mm cubic. Meet various systems grain sizes (FEPA, JIS, ANSI), having corresponding numbers, for example, F 2000. FEPA is the standard for Europe and the CIS countries, JIS is the Japanese standard, ANSI is the American standard.
The higher the number, the finer the grains in the whetstone. For rough sharpening, bars with an index of 1000 are used, for smoother sharpening from 1000 to 6000, for polishing - from 6000 and above.
Musat- looks like a file and is used for straightening a knife without sharpening it. You can also use musat to maintain the sharpness of a knife, but it cannot sharpen the blade. The angle at which editing is performed is 20-25 °.
There are two types of musats:
Diamond and ceramic grinders, which are sometimes found on sale, are not grinders in the literal sense, but sharpeners.
Important: when working with musat, you should pay attention to the following nuances:
Mechanical sharpener– cheap and easy to use and provides good sharpening quality, sufficient for kitchen knives. Working with a mechanical sharpener compares favorably with sharpening with a whetstone in its ease. However, it will be impossible to sharpen a hunting or sports knife with its help.
Electric sharpener– a more expensive option, characterized by versatility of use (kitchen, hunting, sports knives, scissors, etc.). Another plus is the automatic determination of the desired sharpening angle for each blade. An electric sharpener provides high quality sharpening and can “save” even a very dull knife. However, an electric sharpener does not allow you to adjust the sharpness of the blade.
Grinder(with felt or abrasive wheel) – professional equipment, which is used in industrial conditions (factories, knife sharpening stations). The sharpening machine must be operated by a specialist, otherwise the knife can easily be damaged. A product sharpened on a machine becomes very sharp, but dulls faster than a blade sharpened by hand or using an electrical device.
Package
Blister– a plastic case formed according to the shape and size of the knife. Such packaging is mainly used for one knife and, as a rule, is not suitable for storing and transporting the device.
Box– a wooden or cardboard container to hold a set of knives. The box allows you to store and transport knives. Expensive or special sets (for example, for meat) are packaged in a metal case. There are also sets placed in a nylon bag - more compact and lighter than a box and case.
Case– an ideal option for especially sharp knives (santoku), allowing you to store and transport the knife without the risk of damaging surrounding objects. In addition, the cover protects the knife from corrosion and impact (important for ceramic knives).
Knife set– the presence of two or more knives in the delivery set. Models differ from each other in appearance, purpose and size. In addition, the kit may include forks, cutting boards, and musat (a file for straightening knife blades). Purchasing a set is much more convenient and cheaper than buying knives individually.
Important: You should periodically edit soft knives with musat.
Scissors set– the presence in the delivery set of two or more scissors, differing from each other in size and purpose. Has the same advantages as a set of knives.
India has done well with this steel. I set the edge line and formed the inlets. Basically, after that, the knife shaved the hair on my hand. The borides brought the cutting edge to a state where sharpening could be completed. But the last stone was Hard Arkansas, which (with a slight increase in angle) cut its thin and frequent score, significantly adding sharpness to the knives and durability.
The latter, taking into account the reduction to 0.15-0.2 mm and, provided a pleasant aggressive cut for both knives, which should certainly please their owner.
ZAT (Dnepr, Ukraine)
ZAT (Dnepr, Ukraine)
http://www.site/
ZAT (Dnepr, Ukraine)
In the Blog about Sharpening itself, for last years got close large selection articles on the operation of this and other manicure tools, their choice, advantages and disadvantages. If you choose something from Stalex and/or follow the new products of this brand, then the information will definitely be useful to you. Take note... If you are looking for a tool with a different name, pay attention to the selection of articles. And be sure to read the information from the "" section - it is unlikely that you will find it anywhere else.
And by the way. Where do you sharpen? Our workshop is always at your service. Comfortable. Promptly. Qualitatively. Our services are used by manicurists from all over Ukraine.
ZAT (Dnepr, Ukraine)
ZAT (Dnepr, Ukraine)
http://www.site/
Soft steels are a completely different matter. As a rule, these are inexpensive knives and few people are willing to pay for their full sharpening, choosing its reduced a budget option. But the day gets interesting when the owner of the knife chooses a premium level sharpening. There is already room for natural stones here - from to initial stage to the finishing stones of the level, or.
For harder steels (for example, such as), the work of natural stones often begins with, and ends, for example, with or the same. Of course, this is only generalized and does not take into account complete sets, which depend, among other things. depending on the purpose of the knife and the wishes of its owner.
If we take the last year - from last summer to this summer, then three stones became a discovery for me - green and burgundy Brazilian slate (I already mentioned them above), as well as. If the first ones, together with other finishing stones, have practically solved all the issues with the finish, incl. for the same soft steels, I consider Hindostan one of the best finishing stones for kitchen knives - I like the aggressive and at the same time soft cut obtained after using this stone.
Well, the use of the same Brazilian slates on soft steels made it possible to remove Llyn Idwall from these sets. Damn it, but still - how amazingly this stone works on the M390! I have never regretted buying it.
I sharpen quite a few kitchen knives made of X30Cr13, so I pay a lot of attention to this issue. It so happens that I use Translucent Arkansas with them mainly on chefs. If I’m in the mood, I can work on it, which significantly increases durability and extends the life of the knife at least until the first edit.
I understand all the reader’s skepticism regarding the existence of cold hardening, but I myself was like that until I figured out this issue, having received a hardened edge. Before I forget, I’ll also note at this point that yes, it makes sense to use oleic acid at this stage (see the link at the end of the article). IMHO, only here it is necessary to distinguish between technical and cosmetic olein, plus monitor the thickness of the layer when applying it. Again, this is subjective, but technical olein works noticeably better.
Using the word “hardening” so boldly, I note that I have achieved an increase in the retention of the razor sharpening (when the knife shaves the hair on the arm) to 15 days without any editing. I think that for the budget X30Cr13 with its conditional 50-52 HRC (according to impressions) this is a good result.
But here there is a second side - the fragility of the edge increases significantly, after a week chips already appear on it. Interestingly, here the chips somewhat increase the aggressiveness, which the knife with the Translucent Arkansas finish cannot boast of.
To what extent does editing on musat work well with hardening? He's a bad friend. After 2-3 cases of using the musat, with the restoration of the working sharpness of the knife, you can forget about any hardening effect. Until the next sharpening, which may not be soon.
Today, the most mysterious stone for me remains. The stone works quite delicately and every time I choose a stone for finishing, my hand itself bypasses it. This season I want to wait for the right opportunity, when I have knives from different steels at the same time, plus more time, and experiment with this stone - from grinding in Jasper to its place in the set.
I have long played enough with planing hair and cutting it while hanging, but it will be very interesting for me to choose a set so that, despite all the subtlety of Jasper’s work, the output will be acceptable aggressiveness.
Have a nice day everyone and keep your knives sharp!
ZAT (Dnepr, Ukraine)
Not because of what I do with my eyes spectral analysis metal, but simply because there are not so many options here. And I don’t quite understand the words about D2 itself on Chinese replicas.
So, if it is used, which is considered a Chinese analogue of D2, then all the talk about American steel has no basis.
Sharpening. India Kors did a good job with the rough roughing of the leads, and with the India Fine stone (already released in the Republic of Kazakhstan) it removed rather large risks from the previous stone. Then the work went noticeably faster - and the finish was achieved with a minimal increase in angle. I noticed that I like this stone more and more. Neither soft nor hard, very pleasant to work with and always pleases with the result.
The result was a sharp knife with a tasty aggressive cut and a final cutting thickness of 0.5-0.8 mm. By the way, the fit of the blade turned out to be quite good and the leads turned out to be almost symmetrical on both sides of the blade.
I note that the handle itself turned out to be comfortable and the knife fits well in the hand - see the photo above.
Indeed, if a manufacturer is trying to sell a high-quality and easy-to-use tool, then he will also think about the case that almost always accompanies it.
In the photo in the header, on the right, there is a cover for ECLAT nail scissors. By the way, this tool is written in great detail and interestingly in a selection of articles about, which has been collected over many years in the Blog about Sharpening. Despite the simplicity of this case, I was quite surprised when I noticed that the scissors did not fall out of it by themselves - i.e. it fulfills its role quite well, although it is made of what seems to be a very simple and unlikely to last (this is just my guess) material.
On the right in the top photo are leather cases from the STALEX company. Be sure to read the information about this tool that is always available. This case is well known to all nail technicians who use STALEX nail clippers - if handled carefully, it lasts for the entire service life of the tool, and it itself quite reliably and in all cases protects the blades of the nail clippers during storage and transportation.
I have already talked in detail about OLTON cases in the Blog about Sharpening, for example in "". I will only note that the pliers of the same name fit into the case developed by the manufacturer AKUTO with great difficulty.
Researchers from the Greater Britain Office for National Statistics found that spending on hotels, restaurants and household furniture was linked to life satisfaction.
At the same time, insurance costs and Cell phones are not associated with a comfortable life.
But the Office notes that total spending and income matters less than personal circumstances when measuring life satisfaction.
Good health, marital status and economic activity have the greatest influence on a positive assessment of life satisfaction.
The study found that age also matters: Young people have higher levels of life satisfaction than those over 40, but life satisfaction rises again in subsequent years, falling only for those over 80.
INCREASING INCOME
An important factor for the level of life satisfaction is living conditions.
In Britain, those who own their homes or have a mortgage rate their life satisfaction much higher than those who rent.
Households with dependent children are also more satisfied with life than those without children, the study says.
While spending is generally more important than earnings, households with incomes between $31,000 and $57,000 would feel happier if their incomes increased.
The Office of Statistics, which is now looking beyond the official GDP figure to try to form a broader picture of the economy, said: “There is no evidence of a statistically significant relationship between household disposable income and overall life satisfaction after controlling for other characteristics [e.g. age, marriage and employment status]".
"You are more likely to have greater life satisfaction if you have more expenses, and expenses appear to matter more than household income in how people experience life satisfaction," the agency said.
HEALTH
Retirement also has a positive impact on Britons' life satisfaction.
At the same time, unemployment or disability has a significant negative impact, the study says.
Health has a greater impact on life satisfaction than any other characteristic in the analysis. The number of those who have poor health, but report their satisfaction with life, is 5.7 times less than those who have good health.
Health was also an important factor in the last study in 2013. At the same time, marital status now plays a greater role in people’s life satisfaction than it did six years ago.
The Office of Statistics' findings are based on two separate studies: an annual population survey and a separate study of the impact of taxes and benefits.
Our ancestors began using scissors three and a half centuries ago and used them for shearing sheep. The first device was a single piece of metal in which two blades were connected to each other like tweezers. The device was terribly inconvenient. Only the great Leonardo da Vinci gave scissors modern look and a design with "two ends, two rings and a stud in the middle." And the French adapted them for kitchen work, who began to use the tool for cutting up bird carcasses. Modern chef's scissors differ from household tailor's scissors in having reinforced handles and especially sharp blades, because they are designed for cutting tough products, and not light threads and fabrics.
Universal assistant
Multifunctional kitchen scissors are similar to their tailor's counterparts, but they have one feature - small teeth that allow you to hold slippery objects (fish or meat fillets). Sometimes there is a recess at the base of the blades for opening beer bottles and jar caps, and between the handles there is an oval cavity with teeth for cracking nuts. With the help of a kitchen all-rounder, you can easily cut bacon, ham, salad greens, fish, meat or poultry fillets, as well as open milk cartons or remove twine. However, if you need scissors to cut up a chicken or duck carcass, a universal assistant will not work - it just can’t handle bones.
Multifunctional kitchen scissors will cost at least 300 rubles, and their famous branded colleagues will cost 1000-1500. In any case, be sure to hold the instrument in your hands before purchasing. It should fit perfectly in the palm of your hand, regardless of whether you are right-handed or left-handed.
Bone device
To butcher a whole rabbit or goose, it is better to purchase a more substantial version of kitchen scissors. By appearance they resemble garden pruners - they have curved blades with teeth that easily crush bones and separate bird wings. Additionally, some specimens have a semicircular notch in the middle for cutting particularly strong bones. It is considered good form if scissors for cutting poultry, like any other kitchen scissors, are made of high-quality stainless steel, because they are constantly in contact with water and food acids.
Scissors for cutting poultry cost from 500 rubles and more. Their handles can be metal or plastic. It's better to choose last option, since the hand does not slip on the plastic and it is more pleasant to hold than cold metal.
Device for tails and fins
If you like to treat yourself and your family to fresh fish, then you know that the most unpleasant part of the cooking process is cutting off the tenacious, spiny fins and tails. Special scissors for cutting fish will help you cope with this difficult task. They have short blades and powerful handles without rings. Their main purpose is to cut off fins and tails. Since after such cutting, meat and bones can get stuck in the teeth or at the junction of the “ends,” choose collapsible scissors: their blades move as far as possible in different directions, and in your hands you end up with two components of a once single structure. They can be easily washed and reassembled.
Fish scissors cost about 600 rubles. Their blades are usually very sharp, so it is better to choose a model that is equipped with a safe handle lock when closed.
For dill and parsley
If you can’t quickly, evenly and finely chop dill or parsley, purchase special scissors for greens. As a rule, they have grass-colored handles and neat small but very sharp blades. True, sometimes the imagination of manufacturers does not stop at traditional version- some devices have three or five parallel sharp “ends” on one handle, which can significantly speed up the cutting process.
An assistant for chopping greens costs 300-500 rubles. It is especially convenient to use it in cases when you need to chop a little dill, parsley or cilantro directly into a plate with borscht, dumplings or salad.
Pizza cutter
Everyone is familiar with the round roller knife for cutting pizza. However, there is another option for “cutting” Italian flatbread - using special scissors. They not only allow you to cut pizza evenly, but also beautifully place the pieces on plates - some copies are equipped with an additional spatula for this, while others have blades that themselves form a “shovel” when closed.
Everything exotic is expensive, so a pizza cutter will cost you 1500-2000 rubles. Although there are cheaper scissors (500 rubles), curved, which can be used not only for Italian pastries, but also for Russian pies. They cut carefully, do not crumble the product into pieces and do not scratch the surface of the baking sheet.
Expert opinion
Alsou Khasyanova, sous-chef of the Kitaygorodskaya Stena restaurant
Kitchen scissors should not be washed in the dishwasher - chemicals, strong water jets and impacts with other objects can quickly dull them. Better to rinse them first cold water(this will remove the smell of fish), then remove fat and food residues with hot water and detergent, then take another cool “shower” and wipe dry. Don't forget to sharpen your assistants regularly on our own(the kit sometimes includes a sharpener) or in the workshop.
"LAZY COOK BOOK" TASTY AND FAST" in the BOOKS section >>>
Edited: 10/07/2019
Seatpost(also called " verb") is the tube that connects the saddle and the bicycle frame.
The upper part of the post contains a lock to which the saddle is attached, and the lower part is inserted into the frame's seat tube. The pin is clamped in the pipe using a special seat clamp with bolts or an eccentric. Clamps with an eccentric are much more convenient; you can open the pin with one movement and install the desired height. For clamps with bolts, you need either hexagons or a screwdriver with keys. By the way, it is very convenient when all the necessary cycling tools: hex wrenches, screwdrivers and others are collected in one compact multitool, which the cyclist can put either in or in his pocket.
It is simply a pipe with a saddle lock on one end. The most common type today. They are quite easy to use, do not require any maintenance, are strong, lightweight, reliable, and durable. Their only drawback is limited comfort, which, however, is enough for 90% of cyclists. After all, if you install a correctly selected and adjusted saddle, correctly, then the ride will be quite comfortable.
Sometimes butted tubing is used to reduce weight. These are pipes whose wall thickness varies in different places. 
Typically, such pins have thicker walls where the pin enters the seat tube (where the loads are heaviest), and thinner walls closer to the top.
Butted seatposts are more expensive than their standard counterparts, but lighter, so if weight is critical for you, look for these models.
Your health directly depends on its strength and reliability. Imagine how you will feel if it breaks during a trip? Introduced. Agree, not very good, to say the least.
The strongest, lightest and most reliable are titanium ones - they are unlikely to ever break, but for the average cyclist they are too expensive.
Next come the steel ones - these also very rarely break. In addition, unlike aluminum ones, they do not break immediately. Aluminum tends to “accumulate fatigue.” It breaks immediately, but the steel will first crack, and only then, in this place, will break. It is precisely this property of steel as a metal that allows you to notice the crack in advance and replace the pin. Of course, if the bike is not inspected from time to time, then the steel pin will break on the next bump.
In addition, I personally do not consider the argument that an aluminum pin is lighter than a steel one to be very compelling. An extra hundred or two hundred grams will not save you.
Carbon pins stand apart. Carbon itself is a very strong and durable material. The peculiarity of these pins is that what to buy real carbon pin, and not a fake from a Chinese garage at a “promotional price”. Otherwise, you will get one of the situations like in the photos below.
Carbon is also a fairly fragile material, so when clamping the pin in the seat tube, do not overdo it with the “heroic strength”. Otherwise, it will crack at the clamping point, and then break at the most inopportune moment.
I would advise purchasing a carbon pin only for bicycles with . And most likely, anyone who has enough money for a real carbon frame will also have enough money for a high-quality carbon post.
For all other lovers of riding, I would advise purchasing a regular steel pin as best ratio prices and quality. It will serve faithfully for decades, and you are unlikely to feel it as your underside.
It differs from hard ones by a special mechanism that softens shocks and shocks that occur during a trip.
Depreciation systems are very diverse and some examples are presented in the picture below. We will not describe them all. Some models compensate for shock by moving only up and down. Others, receiving a push from below, swing the saddle down and back, which provides more effective shock absorption. On the other hand, this increases the distance to the handlebars, which is not very convenient for some cyclists.
When choosing them, keep in mind that they are quite expensive, weigh more than rigid ones, and some models require regular maintenance.
If necessary, you can find more detailed information about them on the Internet.
Their distinctive feature is that the seat height can be changed during the trip. This may be necessary, for example, when climbing a mountain - when you need to sit higher, but on a flat section of the road or going down a mountain you can sit lower to reduce resistance to air flow. 
They come in the form of two pipes inserted into each other with a clamp - the so-called telescopic pins. It is impossible to say that they are very comfortable, since to change the height of the saddle you need to stop, get off the bike and adjust the height. They are usually installed on bicycles with a frame that has restrictions on the length of the post, but when the saddle needs to be raised high. Although there are models in which the height change lever is located directly under the saddle, which allows you to change the height on the go, but how convenient it is - everyone decides for themselves.
Hydraulic seatposts do not have this drawback; they can be smoothly adjusted during a trip using a special lever or shifter mounted on the steering wheel. Then the height of the saddle changes “with a slight movement of the finger.” They are, of course, convenient for cycling in mountainous areas, but they are very expensive, heavy and require regular maintenance.
Progress does not stand still and now some manufacturers are launching seatposts with wireless control. By pressing a handlebar switch, the cyclist can raise or lower the saddle while riding.
Of course, today the price of such a solution from SRAM is too high for our people and is about 800 euros, but... who knows, maybe in a couple of years SRAM will establish mass production, bring reliability to the required level and lower prices. Or we will earn more and any cyclist will be able to install such a miracle of engineering. After all, today no one is surprised.
Although, in my personal opinion, not everyone needs it. For an ordinary city bike, an ordinary, cheap and reliable steel pipe is quite enough.
Quite rare and too specific type. They are made almost individually for the height of a particular athlete. It is cast together with the frame and, of course, is not adjustable in any way. The purpose of all this is to lighten the entire bike. This is most often done with carbon bicycle frames.
When setting up, it is very important not to insert it into the frame above the special mark marked on the pin. It must remain inside the tube by at least 10-15 centimeters, otherwise the seat tube of the frame will simply break over time from constant heavy loads on its upper part. 
Serious manufacturers usually apply special depth marks to their products.
Second point. If the pin does not go down and you feel that something is blocking it in the pipe, there is no need to drive it in with a hammer.
Firstly, You can break both the pin itself and the frame.
Secondly, it is quite possible that during the manufacture of the frame there was a drop of metal left from welding or the seam was not welded carefully. With these blows you will not cut down a drop, but this very place in the frame will become a point of tension and it is here that the frame can burst over time.
There are different diameters of both the pins themselves and the seat tubes on the frame. Of course, before purchasing a post, you need to check whether it matches the diameter of the seat tube on the frame. If it’s more, then you definitely won’t be able to fit it into the frame. But if the diameter of the pin is smaller than the pipe, then for its reliable fastening you can use special adapters for different diameters.
The most common diameters:
Some manufacturers produce frames with their own seat tube diameters and, accordingly, you need to look for pins that match the diameter. These are, for example, diameters such as (in mm): 26.0; 26.8; 29.2 (Trek, Stels steel); 29.6; 30.8 (Giant); 30.9 (Specialized); 31.2 (Atom fxc); 31.4; 31.8; 33.9 (Shulz)
In general, almost complete list of seatpost diameters in mm looks something like this: 25.0 / 25.4 / 26.0 / 26.4 / 26.6 / 26.8 / 27.0 / 27.2 / 28.6 / 29.0 / 29.2 / 29.4 / 29.6 / 29.8 / 30.0 / 30.2 / 30.4 / 30.8 / 30.9 / 31. 2 / 31.4 / 31.6 / 31.8 / 32.4 / 33.9 / 34.9
When selecting an adapter, carefully ensure that the pin sits tightly in the frame seat tube and does not wobble. Even a small gap of half a millimeter, in which the seatpost swings, will eventually lead to the destruction of the seat tube. And riding on a swinging saddle is not comfortable. If it is difficult to find such an adapter, try simply wrapping the pin with electrical tape or use thin metal plates to close the gap between the pin and the pipe.
There are several options:
If you have an old one, you need to find out its diameter. How?
If you are buying a seatpost for a new frame, you need to measure the inner diameter of the seat tube. There is only the option of a caliper or ruler.
Compared to the diameters of the pin, choosing its length is much easier. Typically, pins with a length of 350 to 400 mm are installed. On and road models from 270 to 300 mm
There are different designs for attaching the saddle to the seatpost:
There are models of curved pins (for example, as in the figure on the right), which are used if necessary to change the position of the cyclist's body, moving it a little back. The size of the rear stem is selected individually to obtain a comfortable riding position for the cyclist.
So, when choosing a seatpost, consider a few points:
