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» Installation of corner siding. How to cover a house with siding - all stages of work. Tools for work

Installation of corner siding. How to cover a house with siding - all stages of work. Tools for work

How to install siding yourself with minimal losses.

Installation of siding generally does not cause any particular difficulties, but requires strict adherence to the siding installation technology and the recommendations given by the manufacturer regarding the installation of this finishing material.

Repairing an old and dilapidated building is quite difficult and labor-intensive process, especially if we're talking about about a wooden house with a long service life. There are two main ways to solve this problem:

  • Cover the house with clapboard. Doesn't solve all problems. Constant maintenance of the facade will be required: annual repainting, sealing of loose seams, etc.
  • Finishing with siding. This option is more acceptable, since it allows you to complete the work quickly, at the same time insulate the building, and also maintain good quality for a long time. appearance no need for seasonal maintenance

Attention! Siding belongs to the category of ventilated facades, therefore wooden walls will not rot under it, continuing to “breathe » .

The choice of siding as a finishing material in in this case obvious. It is worth noting that this type exterior finishing can also be used for brick and concrete houses, as it allows you to quickly and easily carry out renovation work and give the building a beautiful appearance.

Before carrying out the main work, you need to decide which ones are right for you.

You can see photos of examples of covering a house with siding with your own hands. There are quite a lot of successful examples there.

The following few questions remain to be answered:

  • How to calculate the required amount of consumables?
  • Is preparatory work necessary?
  • What tool will you need?
  • What may include preparing the surface for siding?
  • How to make a sheathing?
  • How to start, continue and finish installation work?
  • What should be considered when?
  • How can accessories help? Etc.

In the instructions for installing siding, we will try to answer all these questions in order.

Siding calculation

Most owners who carry out repairs with their own hands allow gross mistake, performing calculations based on the square footage of the building walls. What's the catch? The fact is that the strips are made in a standard length, it is slightly less than six meters. Then it needs to be joined. As a result of counting by quadrature, many segments remain and often there is simply not enough material. Therefore, it is necessary to calculate the total amount of material in order to avoid overspending as much as possible, taking into account the length and width of the strip.

  1. We measure the length of the wall. For example, it has 8 meters. Consequently, a whole strip can be installed, and then another section of about 2 meters. In the future, the remnants of the cut strip will be additionally used for the remaining two rows. It turns out that for three rows you will need only four planks
  2. We measure the height of the wall. Wooden walls one-story house usually no more than 3 meters to the roof. One row of siding has a working surface of 22.9 cm. Three rows, therefore, will cover 0.68 m. Next, we divide the heights of the walls by the result obtained and by four 3000 cm ÷ 0. 68 ÷ 4 = 11. It turns out that for a blank wall it is necessary purchase 11 strips of material
  3. Window openings. You should not throw away the area of ​​window openings, since you will additionally need material that can be used for slopes. Additionally, it will be necessary to calculate the total number of J corners, joining strips, and starting strips. They are calculated in strict accordance with the length and height of the building

If you have difficulty making calculations, you can use a special calculator, a program that is often available on various construction sites.

Preparation for construction work

At this stage it will be necessary to collect construction tool, install scaffolding, and most importantly, decide whether the work will be done independently or with the involvement of a professional team. If selected last option, then it’s easy to calculate the additional costs. The cost of the team’s services will cost 50-75% of the cost of construction material. If you don’t have the opportunity or desire to spend that amount, then you can do the installation yourself. Agreeing with construction crew, you need to take into account that all problems associated with calculation, preparation and installation will be solved by the workers of this team.

You can calculate it yourself, think about where you can save money and where to add elements, based on your financial capabilities.
You can get acquainted with the siding sizes. And you can find detailed description features of calculating siding for a house.

What tools might you need to install siding?

To cover a building with siding you will need a standard set of tools. Namely:

  • Angle grinder
  • Screwdriver and screwdriver
  • Hacksaw for metal
  • Level
  • Roulette
  • Hammer
  • Hammer
  • Metal scissors

If possible, you can also use a circular saw; it helps to accurately cut the required angle and increase the quality of work.

Is it necessary to prepare the surface?

For wooden house This is a mandatory part of the installation. For brick building Basically, no preparatory work is required. Wooden house is prepared as follows:

  1. The surface is examined to remove rotten boards
  2. The surface is treated with an antiseptic
  3. All decorative and protruding elements are removed

It is quite important to check the windows in the house to determine their compliance with the horizontal and vertical planes. Any unevenness will be clearly visible, so you may have to trim them or replace them with plastic ones. After completing the preparatory work, you can proceed to arranging the sheathing.

How to install profiles under the siding (make lathing) and insulate the walls?

Is it necessary to install sheathing under the siding? In short, yes! The fact is that the lathing is a kind of shock absorber between the walls of the building and the material itself. During the shrinkage of the building, cracks in the strips or their deformation can be avoided. In addition, the lathing eliminates uneven walls. So, she is needed! In addition, it can be used to insulate the walls of a building. How is the sheathing installed?

  1. Two profiles are installed along the edges of the building. They are set in strict accordance with the vertical and horizontal levels. By the way, for installation they usually use a standard profile, which is used for plasterboard structures
  2. The remaining profiles are installed vertically along the thread. Optimal distance between them is about 40 cm. Some, wanting to save money, take a step wider, up to 60 cm. This may be justified if there are no strong gusts of wind in the area where the building is located
  3. Insulation is placed between the profile. For ventilated facades it is best to use one of the soft thermal insulation options
  4. Checking the final result using a rule

Now you can start covering with siding.

Vinyl siding installation

Where to begin?

Setting up the starting line

First you need to do the marking.

Moreover, the requirement here is that the lower part of the bar does not lie on the ground. The gap between it and the blind area of ​​the building should be at least a few centimeters. The strip is fastened using galvanized nails.

It is better to install the starting siding strip immediately along the entire perimeter of the building. This is where the level comes in handy. With its help we mark the zero, and with the help of a construction cord we establish a common horizon for the four sides. Since there is already insulation on the walls, marks can be made directly on the profile.

Installing fittings and trims

The installation process is quite easy, but you should still follow the basic recommendations:

  • Vinyl siding expands under the influence of temperature; this property of the material must be taken into account during installation. The required thermal gap is about 5-6 mm.
  • The material is attached to the sheathing in such a way that it can “breathe”. The nails are not driven in completely, leaving a small gap between the head and the facing material of about 1-2 mm.
  • Fastening is carried out in the center of the hole. Fixing the bar at the side is a violation technological process. The pitch between fasteners is about 30-40 cm.
  • It is necessary to fix the bar only after clicking the panel into the lock. This will be indicated by a click.

Corners must be protected with special fittings. Are there rules in this regard?

The outer corner helps to increase the strength of the finish and at the same time hide the place where the planks join each other. Recommendations for installing this fittings are as follows:

  • Bottom part. Should protrude 10 mm lower than the bottom level of the strip
  • Top. Should not reach the eaves by 5 mm.
  • Fastening. In this case, the step between the dowels should be smaller; a spacing of 20-30 cm is allowed.
  • Additional fittings. If you need to close the end part, you can cut out the plugs yourself from sections of the J-strip

How to install the J bar?

In order to improve door and window openings, it is necessary to install the so-called J-bar. If you have a circular saw at hand, this will be much easier.

  1. A groove is cut into the horizontal bar on both sides. Vertical ones have a special eyelet
  2. A strip is installed around the perimeter of the window, top part which is cut at an angle

For deep slopes, you can use a double-sided J-profile.

[сaution] Siding strips should be installed from top to bottom. It is quite important to leave certain gaps when installing between the end of the plank and the connecting profiles and corners. Siding panels must stand freely. This is necessary to create space for thermal expansion of the material.

If the length of the strip is not enough and you have to extend it, you can use the following tips:

  • Install H profile. The best but expensive solution
  • Install the planks end to end. In this case, the docking points must be taken apart.

Otherwise, installation of siding is not difficult.
Some owners of private houses prefer to use metal siding for cladding their houses. just like vinyl, it is simple.

Helpful Tips:

  • It is best to use a circular saw for cutting corners. It can be rented at any construction supermarket
  • Arched J - profile must be fastened without expansion joint. Only in this case dowel caps are driven tightly

Finishing with siding allows you to restore an old house quickly and efficiently with the possibility of additional insulation and, most importantly, independently. All this is possible only if you listen to the recommendations regarding its installation.

DIY siding installation video

Video instruction from a large Russian manufacturer vinyl and basement siding.

You can improve the appearance of a house or any other extension by installing siding; moreover, it perfectly protects the walls from precipitation and wind blowing. This facade material also used for cladding industrial buildings.

Siding is a practical and popular facing building material. It is produced in the form of panels from 3 to 4 meters long, each of which has a latch lock and an edge with holes for fasteners. Siding has good performance characteristics and aesthetic appearance. From positive qualities you can note:

  • makes the appearance of the building more beautiful and neat;
  • thanks to large selection panels, the house can be given an individual style;
  • High-quality siding has a service life of more than 30 years;
  • installation can be done independently;
  • is a safe material;
  • When dirty, it can be easily cleaned with water and detergent.

Low-quality and cheap siding fades under the influence of the sun after 2 years, since a small amount of titanium dioxide is added to it during production.

Finishing panels are available in a variety of textures and come in a wide range of colors. Siding is produced in several types:

  1. Metal;
  2. Vinyl;
  3. Basement (fiber cement);
  4. Acrylic;
  5. Wood.

Let's take a closer look at each type:

  • Vinyl siding is made from polyvinyl chloride and in appearance can copy finishing materials made of stone, wood and brick. The panels are lightweight and resistant to mold and rot. The material is non-toxic and not damaged by pests. Vinyl products do not conduct electricity and are low cost, but are not resistant to mechanical stress.

  • Metal siding comes in steel, aluminum and galvanized varieties. This material is strong, durable and safe for environment. The panels do not change their original shape due to temperature changes and are resistant to oil and chemical substances. Mold cannot grow on its surface and pests do not eat it. U metal siding there are several disadvantages. When the protective coating peels off, rust forms on the panel. It makes a lot of noise when it rains. Metal siding is more expensive than vinyl siding.

  • Wooden siding or facade lining is the most environmentally friendly pure material and has excellent thermal insulation properties. Made from coniferous and larch wood. To prevent the panels from darkening or cracking, a protective coating is applied to them. The price of the material depends on the type and type of wood.

  • Fiber cement panels are made from high quality cement, cellulose fibers and sand. The outer side of the slab has a special coating that protects it from moisture and sunlight. The material is non-flammable, and it does not rot or grow mold. Fiber cement siding resistant to mechanical damage and deformation. Does not contain harmful substances and is environmentally friendly. Service life is 25-50 years, depending on the manufacturer and external conditions.

Installation of sheathing with waterproofing and insulation

Before installing the siding, you need to make a reliable frame. The sheathing can be made of wooden beams or metal profiles. It is fixed to the walls with brackets. The sheathing posts are attached opposite to the direction of the siding, that is, if the panels are mounted horizontally, then the sheathing is made vertically, and vice versa. The distance between the elements in the structure depends on the weight of the siding - the heavier the material, the more often the racks are attached.

Step-by-step instructions for making the sheathing:

  1. The surface of the walls is prepared, gutters and all protruding parts are removed.
  2. If necessary, the walls are primed, wooden surfaces treated with an antiseptic.
  3. Using a level and plumb line, places for attaching hangers are outlined. They are placed every 40 cm, retreated from the edges of the walls by 15 cm, from internal corner- 10 cm.
  4. Drill holes, insert dowels and install U-shaped brackets.
  5. The beams are fastened along the edges of the wall, and a rope is stretched between them.
  6. The remaining vertical beams are mounted.
  7. Horizontal metal profiles are installed in increments of 40 cm.
  8. Above the base, at the top and bottom of windows and doors, horizontal sheathing elements are secured using a crab connector.
  9. Placed between the posts and under the sheathing mineral insulation, in places of joining it is overlapped. It is attached to the wall with umbrella dowels.
  10. The mineral wool and sheathing are covered with wind and vapor barrier insulation. The edges of the film are laid on top of each other and taped with construction tape. It is secured to the sheathing with double-sided tape and counter-battens.

You can insulate the walls immediately after installing the U-shaped brackets. The thermal insulation material is put on the hangers and secured with umbrella dowels, after which it is covered with waterproofing, and the sheathing is installed for installing the siding.

For regions with warm climates, thermal insulation is not provided, but for cold zones, the thickness of the insulation should be at least 15 cm.

Installation of the starting bar

Before installing the starting strip, flashings are installed. They are secured with self-tapping screws with a distance between them of 40 cm. When joining, the ebbs are placed on top of each other. The overlap width is at least 2.5 cm. A building level is used to indicate an even angle.

The starting or starting bar refers to the load-bearing elements. Installed from the top edge of the ebb or at the very bottom of the wall. The first sheet of siding is installed on it. The initial plank is attached, checking the level, since the evenness of the entire wall cladding depends on its installation.

Installation of the starting strip:

  • from the lower border of the future cladding they retreat upward by 4 cm;
  • using a level, make marks on all vertical posts of the sheathing or make marks on the wall if there is no frame;
  • the initial strip is installed with the upper edge to the marks;
  • secured with self-tapping screws in the middle of the factory holes;
  • the starting strips are attached so that the distance between them is 0.5 cm (this gap is necessary for thermal expansion);
  • the same distance should be from the edges of the corner elements or width corner profile plus 12 cm.

Why do you need a J-profile?

  • J-profile is a universal, load-bearing element of siding trim. It can be regular, arched (flexible) and wide.
  • A regular J-profile is needed to complete a facing row at the end of a wall, to cover the edge of a cornice, or to replace a finishing panel.
  • Wide is usually used to design door and window openings.
  • Arched is used along the edge of an arch-shaped opening. There are notches on the panel where cuts are made at the required distance, so that it can be bent at the desired angle.
  • J-profiles are fixed to the walls with nails or self-tapping screws.

How to attach siding

The siding is attached to the façade of the building or to the sheathing. Fastening methods depend on the type of facing material:

  • Vinyl panels must be secured only to the factory holes.
  • For wooden cladding, it is recommended to use galvanized fasteners.
  • Fastening the elements should be done evenly and directly, in the center of the factory hole.
  • When securing the siding together, press it from the bottom up so that the top panel snaps into the lock of the bottom one.
  • When installing the planks, you need to leave a gap of 2 mm between them and the sheathing to allow expansion of the cladding during temperature changes.

Installation of internal and external corner strips

Corner panels are load-bearing elements. Attached after starting profile. Designed to cover and secure the edges of siding, and also serve as guides.

Installation of corner strips:

  • install the panel so that its lower part protrudes above the starting bar by 0.5-0.7 mm, and the upper edge does not reach the cornice by 5-7 mm;
  • begin to secure the profile from top to bottom;
  • the first self-tapping screw is screwed into the upper part of the factory hole, the rest fasteners placed in the middle of the holes;
  • the distance between the screws is 20 cm;
  • to lengthen the corners, the holes for fastenings are cut off at the top profile to a length of 34 mm so that the planks overlap each other by 25 mm, and the remaining 9 mm are left for a gap;
  • if the starting strips are located close to the corner, then the edges of the nail fasteners at the corner profile are trimmed to the height of the starting strip;
  • internal and external corner strips are installed using a plumb line and level.

How to extend siding strips

When the siding is shorter than the length of the sheathed wall, a connecting strip is installed to extend the panels horizontally. The connecting profile covers the joints of the siding, which makes it more durable and protects it from precipitation getting under the cladding. In addition, this way the appearance of the facade will look more beautiful and look like one whole.

Siding panels can also be lengthened using the “overlapping” method. The profile sheets should be arranged in a checkerboard pattern, avoiding butt joints at the same level in a row. The length of overlap of one panel on another must be at least 5 cm, with the obligatory coincidence of the factory holes for fasteners.

Installation of H-profile

H-profile refers to additional load-bearing elements. Used to connect two horizontal sheathing panels if the wall length is larger size facing material. It is also used when connecting soffit (eaves) siding.

Fastening the connecting strip begins from the top of the wall. The first fastener is made at the top of the hole, subsequent screws are screwed in the middle of the holes. The H-profile should retreat 0.5 cm from the cornice and be 6 mm below the starting strip. On both sides, the connecting profile has a 0.6 cm indentation from the starting panels, that is, it is located between them.

During installation, the siding is not inserted into the H-profile all the way, but so that there is a gap of 5-6 mm for thermal expansion.

Installation of ordinary siding panels

For smooth and neat finishing of the facade of the building, it is necessary to use a level, the length of which must be at least 80 cm.

The first siding panel with its end side is inserted into corner strip, and the lower part is brought into the lock-bend of the initial one and snapped into place. After which, if necessary, it is pulled up to level the horizontality of the row. Tightening the fasteners on the panel is done from the center to the edges. It is necessary to leave 5 mm between adjacent planks for thermal expansion.

The fasteners must not be screwed in completely. A gap of 1-2 mm is left from the screw head to the panel. You cannot pull the profile up after lock connection will snap into place on the starting bar.

Subsequent rows of panels are installed in a similar way - one side of the siding is placed in the corner groove, and the other in the H-profile or in the opposite corner. The installed panel snaps into the lock of the previous one and is screwed to the sheathing.

The siding facing the façade is installed up to the top of the wall, but so that there is space left for installing the finishing strip and the last profile.

Laying the finishing strip of siding

The finishing line is decorative element, which is used to provide a beautiful and sealed finish to the top edge of the last panel. Install with the side with the factory mounting holes facing down and the panel locking mount facing up.

The procedure for installing the finishing strip:

  • the plank is mounted with screws at the very top of the wall, under the cornice;
  • the distance is measured from the top of the finishing strip to installed panels, and 0.3 cm is subtracted from the result obtained; if width profile sheet more distance, then the upper part is cut off from it;
  • in the cut panel (without the top part), holes are made every 10 cm with perforating pliers;
  • of the prepared plank, the lower part is inserted into the lock of the previous profile, and the upper part into the locking mount of the finishing panel and snapped into place.

Fasteners are screwed onto finishing line through 3-5 holes and in their center.

How to go around windows and doorways with siding

Before covering the siding, the window and door openings are trimmed with special additional elements (platbands). Along the perimeter inside windows (doors) are secured with slats to which the finishing profile is screwed.

At the upper and lower window strips, the edges on the inside are cut by 2 cm and bent in the shape of “tongues”. The upper and lower trim are inserted into the finishing groove, then secured with screws to the sheathing. When installing the side window trims, the “tongues” are inserted inward.

If the width of the siding panel does not fit under the window or above the window (or door), it is shortened to the required depth along the width of the opening. At the cut site, holes are made for fasteners, which should be the same size as the factory ones. Then slide the siding panel under the window element and secure it. From below window opening a low tide is installed, the upper edge of which is raised along the entire length from the window. The width of the window sill should be 5 cm larger than the opening.

The profile is mounted above the window (door) in the same way. To cover the walls on the side of the openings, the panels are cut to the required length. Then they are brought under the platbands.

When the walls are covered with highly embossed siding, for example, a block house, then the installation of window trims is done after the installation of the panels.

Gable trim

On final stage start cladding the pediment. If the attic will be used for living space, the gable will be insulated.

First, the roof overhangs and the end part of the roof are prepared. Remove old siding, flashings and wind boards. The roofing material is cut so that it is flush with the front overhangs. The sheathing for the gable siding is done in the same order as for the walls.

Installation of siding on the gable:

  • if the wall of the house and the pediment are separated by a cornice, then ebb strips are installed;
  • J-straps are fixed along the perimeter of the pediment, or the starting strip is fixed at the bottom, and the finishing strip at the top;
  • corners are made from metal profiles and external corner strips are installed;
  • since the shape of the pediment has an angular slope, a piece of siding is used as a template to draw cutting lines on it;
  • the panels are joined together with an overlap or using an H-bar;
  • the top one is a ridge sheet of siding, fixed on top directly through the panel, it is better to drill a hole in advance.

The cornice is finished with a special facing material - soffit. To install the panels, the edges of the cornice are sheathed on the inside with slats. J-bars are attached to them. Soffit siding is quite flexible, so it can be easily installed with a slight downward bend and inserted into the grooves of the J-plank. You will hear a click when the panel is inserted correctly. The distance between them is 0.2-0.3 cm for thermal expansion. The cladding of the building is completed by the installation of roofing strips - drip edges. Placed on the outer part of the slopes.

You can install siding yourself. The main thing is to strictly follow the manufacturer's instructions and follow all recommendations. You should buy building materials in one batch at once, so that there is enough to finish all the walls, plus 5-10% more than the calculated quantity (for adjustment). Additional elements are purchased from the same manufacturer.

Providing a supply of high quality Canadian vinyl siding, official dealers of Mitten Inc. They also provide house cladding services. If you are confident in your abilities and are going to install vinyl siding yourself, we offer several useful recommendations that will help you avoid mistakes.

How to take measurements

For determining total area space that you plan to cover with siding, you can use the geometric partitioning method. The building is broken down into simple geometric figures, the areas of which are subsequently summed up.
You can quickly and easily calculate the amount of material using the calculator on our website.

Installation steps for vinyl panels:

  • Preparatory work. Surface measurements are carried out, equipment is prepared, necessary tools and fasteners, a detailed siding installation diagram is being developed.
  • Installation work. Vertical and horizontal panels are installed in accordance with the siding installation instructions.
  • Installation of spotlights. At this stage, soffit panels are installed to provide ventilation of the under-roof space.
  • Final works. Includes checking the quality of work and removing excess material.

Installing siding on a wall without using a substructure. This is only possible if the wall is flat, otherwise (if the surface is uneven or we are doing insulation) it is necessary to use a substructure.

Siding installation process

Surface cladding with horizontal siding is carried out in six stages:

  • determining the point from which the first row of panels will begin;
  • installation of corners;
  • installation of a starting strip;
  • installation of window edging and doorways, installation of ebb tides;
  • installation of siding panels;

The instructions for installing vertical siding are fundamentally different from those described above. Since vertical vinyl panels are not widely used in Russia, we will present only the main installation steps:

  • alignment of the sheathing (substructure), if it is horizontal;
  • installation of a vertical starting strip;
  • installation of corners at the same level as the starting strip;
  • installing J-profiles around windows and doors to secure siding;
  • installation of vinyl panels.

N.B. If you need detailed instructions on siding installation, you can download it in PDF format.

With its help you can avoid the most common mistakes. However, it must be taken into account that any installation instructions describe only typical aspects of installation work.

Basic tools and equipment

Before you begin installing siding, you need to download the instructions and make sure that you have the basic tools at hand:

In addition, when planning to install siding yourself, do not forget to prepare a jigsaw, hammer, level, chalk and tape measure. It is recommended to protect your eyes with special glasses. You will also need galvanized steel or aluminum fasteners - nails, screws and staples, which must fit into the sheathing at least 20 mm.

When cutting vinyl panels, follow these safety precautions:

Preparing to install siding

The surface for cladding is leveled so that it is level from any angle of view. For long-term operation of vinyl siding, installation according to the instructions must be carried out over insulating material, protecting walls from moisture and freezing. Places where siding comes into contact with stone, plaster, brick and other building materials, as well as the space around all openings, must be insulated.

  • When cladding objects and buildings under construction, from the facades of which all the previous cladding has been completely removed, it is recommended to use moisture-resistant OSB boards.
  • If the object has already been put into operation, it is necessary to first strengthen all loose boards and replace rotten ones, and also, before starting work, remove gutters, shutters, lighting around doors and windows, etc.

Horizontal siding - installation instructions

Step 1: Find your starting point

Do-it-yourself siding installation begins with a visual inspection of the building. It is very important to correctly determine where you will install the first row of panels. It may coincide with the old cladding (for houses in use). If this is a new building, the first horizontal row should cover the upper edge of the foundation. To correctly construct a horizontal starting line, use a plumb line to ensure a clear vertical arrangement corners

Step 2: Install Accessories

The instructions for installing siding include a complete list of necessary accessories (external and internal corners, starting strip, trim, etc.). You need to start with them, and only then move on to hanging profiles. First the corners are set. It is important that there is a small distance of 6.4 mm between the cornice/soffit and the top of the corner.


Step 3: Set the starting strip

If the first panel is installed, then the rest of the siding will also lie flat. Having determined the border of the 1st row, mark the width of the starting panel on it and draw an even horizontal line along the wall. This line will serve as a guide for setting the top edge of the starting profile. Leave a gap of 12.7mm between the edges of adjacent strips.

Step 4: Insulate Doors and Windows

Now proceed to installing the components on the window and door openings. Install platbands, window trims, ebbs, and secure finishing trims. Join the finishing strips at an angle of 45° - this will give the entire structure a finished, neat look.

Step 5. Install cladding panels

A basic, but in principle uncomplicated stage. Do-it-yourself vinyl siding installation is done from the bottom up, from the starting strip. Insert the main panel into the starting profile and nail it in place. But not “tightly”. Touch the panel, move it from side to side. If it moves, it means you did everything correctly and you can continue working. The panels are fixed at intervals of 40.5 cm. Where the siding joins the accessories, leave a gap of 6 to 12.5 mm. The panels overlap each other exactly halfway from the factory mark. Avoid frequent vertical overlaps and try to keep the joints as inconspicuous as possible from the façade.

Then install siding around doors, windows and downspouts (the website has a siding installation diagram for difficult areas). You can use special panels or cut holes in the profile yourself the right size and shapes.

Step 6: Install the top edge of the wall

When installing siding yourself, be especially careful at the final stage. When you reach the top edge, install the profiles in the same way as below window openings and doors (siding installation instructions are illustrated detailed diagrams). Use whole panels under the roof edge, do not cut anything. The panel is cut to the required angle only for installation on gables.

Finish the last horizontal row with a J-profile or finishing overlay. For the top of the J-profiles, 6 mm holes are required, drilled every 60 cm. This is necessary to drain water from the roof of the building. At this stage, if necessary, the transition to the installation of vertical siding begins.

We have introduced you to the basic sequence of work. All details (drawings, calculations for each step) are contained in the proprietary siding installation instructions. You can download the document. Follow our recommendations and everything will work out.

  • Mount the panels so that they can move freely from side to side.
  • Make sure that the panel lock is completely connected to the bottom part; however, when fastening it, you do not need to forcefully pull them up.
  • When driving nails, leave a gap of at least 1 mm between the edge of the head and the vinyl. This will avoid deformation of the panel.
  • When installing siding yourself, do not seal the panels at the junction with the recess of the outer and inner corners, as well as the J-profile. Siding overlaps also do not need to be sealed.

If you don’t know how to choose siding panels or, you can always get qualified help by contacting the company’s managers by phone 8-800-333-08-44, or ordering a call back via special form Online.

– this is modern facing material for finishing buildings with a wide range of colors and textures.

It performs several main functions:

  1. Decorative, as it has an impeccable appearance due to the variety of textures and shades.
  2. Protective: from the influence of various weather phenomena and the external environment.
  3. Insulation: if there thermal insulation material between frame slats.

Siding panels are made from various materials: wood, steel, cement, ceramics, vinyl.

Vinyl siding has gained particular popularity in construction market, thanks to the low price, durability, decorative properties and quality characteristics:

  1. Frost-resistant.
  2. Does not require special care.
  3. Wear-resistant and durable.
  4. Easy to install.
  5. Easy to transport thanks to its small size and weight.
  6. Environmentally friendly and non-toxic.
  7. Does not corrode.
  8. UV resistant.

The undoubted advantage of siding is that you can use it for cladding a house without inviting specialists, with your own hands.

How to attach?


Fastening the panels is recommended with galvanized or aluminum nails, staples to wood, but practitioners often use self-tapping screws, which are convenient for working at heights using a screwdriver and a magnetic attachment. The main thing is resistance to corrosion, otherwise over time the appearance will be spoiled by rusty spots.

The procedure for installing the panels is as follows:

  1. Base covering and drainage installation. The house may have a base in the same plane with the wall or protruding. For the second option, you need a rain drain, which can be made from a siding drain strip, a galvanized corner or a metal-plastic corner. First, the corner is processed, the joint is sealed with silicone. A flashing is installed from the corners, with the joint of the planks overlapping. Below, under the ebb, a rigid rail is attached along the entire length of the base. Using a level, a strictly horizontal line is checked. It is recommended to do low tide around the entire perimeter of the house.
  2. Setting up a starting profile. The starting panel at the bottom of the plinth is mandatory, since the rigidity and appearance of the entire cladding structure depend on it. First, you need to mark the lower level of the sheathing in one of the corners. Then drive a nail 4 cm higher. The same is done in the other corner of the wall. A line is drawn that is drawn along the perimeter around the house with similar markings. The edges of the nail strips are marked on the sheathing. The upper edge of the starting profile is installed along the marking line. The starting line must be strictly horizontal. Further, it will be hidden by subsequent panels.
  3. At the interface of the plinth and the main facade, it is possible to install a border, which will become the basis of the next row.
  4. Installation of corner panels. Corner profiles are attached immediately after completing the starting line. The panels are overlapped to protect the joint from water ingress. It is necessary to ensure that the joint is at the same level in all corners. The main fastening step is 2-2.5 cm. Fastenings are made in the center of the holes and are not recessed to the limit.
  5. Design of door and window openings. Special window J-profiles with a shelf are used for finishing slopes. Finishing profiles are attached around the perimeter. In deep niches, conventional cladding using an angular profile is possible. Under the window opening, row panels are cut to the width of the window, taking into account the required gap.
  6. Installation of facade elements. Row panels are attached from the starting strip. Don't forget about the gaps on both sides of the profile. Every third row is recommended to be checked with a level for horizontalness.
  7. Roof overhangs and gable. For finishing with perforation. This allows the roof to be ventilated. The soffits are fastened every 30 cm. In the design of the pediment, a J-profile or corner profile is used.
  8. Joining siding. The service life and appearance of the building depend on correct docking. Please note:
    • General original rule: join the horizontal position of the siding from bottom to top, and the vertical position from the corner or midline of the wall.
    • When temperature changes, the deformation occurs not in the width, but in the length of the panels. Therefore, play at the joints is required.
    • When installing, do not put pressure on the profile, do not stretch, do not allow rigid joining.
    • The profile is fixed from the middle of the bar to the edges when mounted horizontally, from top to bottom when mounted vertically.


Despite general rules and the order of work, each type of siding has some of its own characteristics:

  1. On vinyl siding, the largest thermal expansion: one panel, 3 m in size, changes length by 10-12 mm with temperature changes. Metal siding is not subject to deformation.
  2. When cutting metal siding Strong heating should not be allowed, as the polymer layer along the edge is destroyed, and over time rust will appear there.
  3. On cold days, vinyl panels should not be cut with a knife or scissors - there will be cracks along the cut line.
  4. Fastening need to be done on metal sheathing, since wooden guides near the ground will quickly become unusable.

Sheathing components and surface preparation

Main components include:

  1. Start profile. In order to give rigidity to the bottom row, not a vinyl, but a steel panel is attached. Placed at the very bottom of the trim so as to remain hidden. The starting panel can be cut down, leaving the part with perforations and a receiving lock.
  2. J-profile. It is used to decorate windows and doorways, covers the side edges of panels on the facade, and can be used as a finishing profile at the junction of angles other than 90 0 .
  3. Corner profile. Designed for joining panels at both external and internal corners.
  4. H-panels. They serve as a connection if the length of the sheet does not allow covering the wall completely. It is possible to connect two J-profiles.
  5. Finish panels. They are used to complete the cladding of building walls. Cover the last siding profiles.
  6. Soffit panels. Serve for decorative finishing cornices, fastened using a J-profile.

Additionally, you will need ventilation vents and other possible accessories made of the same material as.

Surface preparation includes the following necessary work:

  1. Weed removal, dirt, etc.
  2. Dismantling decorative ornaments , platbands, window sills, shutters, etc.
  3. Wooden walls check for the presence of rotten elements, remove and treat with an antiseptic.
  4. Treat with sealant places where moisture can penetrate: cracks, cracks, pipe insertions, etc.

In order to create thermal insulation and reduce the load on the walls, the sheathing is fastened to the prepared sheathing. It is impossible to mount the profile on walls, even fairly smooth ones.

Installation of sheathing


Installation of wooden sheathing

If the new wooden walls are perfectly smooth, no lathing is done. But this happens very rarely. For stone and block surfaces, sheathing is required. Its installation is necessary to ensure support of the siding in one plane.

The sheathing frame maintains free space between the wall and the sheathing, which allows it to retain heat in winter and protect it from overheating in summer.

The material for the sheathing is selected depending on the type of surface:

  1. On wooden wallswooden beams.
  2. On stone walls – wooden beams, PVC slats or galvanized profile.
  3. On brick and concrete walls – galvanized profile.

The procedure for making the sheathing is as follows:

  1. Using a level and tape measure you need to draw straight lines around the perimeter of the wall until you get a closed contour.
  2. Adhering to the wall starting from the corners, vertical guides are attached. If necessary, pieces of wood or foam can be used for compaction. The installation step is 30-45 cm.
  3. Guides, you need to add in places of additional load on the panels, around windows and doors.
  1. Do not connect vertical guides horizontal slats to maintain ventilation under the siding.
  2. Dry the wooden sheathing well To avoid warping, treat with a fire retardant and antiseptic.
  3. Use stainless nails.

At the same time, the building can be insulated with polystyrene foam, glass wool or polyethylene, provided that the ventilation space is preserved. Therefore, the thickness of the timber or sheathing slats should be greater than the insulation layer. Do not allow moisture to accumulate behind the siding panels to prevent mold or mildew from developing.


  1. Do not cut a large volume of profile, based on preliminary calculations. Errors may occur. Therefore, it is better to prepare the material in parts, for each section separately.
  2. Do not drive nails through the siding panel or screw in self-tapping screws. Use only designated holes.
  3. In panel fastening, use nylon washers - they will provide resistance in strong winds.

Finishing with siding is the second life of a house, which has retained its strength and received a new aesthetic appearance.

Do you want your home to look new without making a big investment? Then an excellent and, most importantly, modern option is to decorate the facade with siding. It is used for finishing a wide variety of buildings: the facade of a bathhouse, garage, house and others. It prevents direct sunlight from hitting the walls, protects from rain, protects the house from temperature changes, and is also excellent protection from the wind. Moreover, it is easy to operate. It can be easily cleaned by washing and wiping damp cloth. These are just some of the benefits of choosing wall siding. Now let's look at how to install siding with your own hands, find out what tools you will need for this, and how to prepare for the work.

Tools and equipment

Before starting preparatory work, you should make sure that you have all the tools. To install siding you will need:

  • tin scissors,
  • Bulgarian,
  • sharp knife,
  • hammer drill,
  • punch,
  • jigsaw,
  • stapler,
  • level,
  • hammer,
  • roulette,
  • protective glasses.

In addition to the tools, you should purchase all building materials in advance. In addition to the siding itself and its components, you need to stock up on nails, screws, staples, etc. Now that you have everything at hand, you can begin the preparatory work.

Preparatory work

Please note that you cannot install the siding yourself. Therefore, take care of a reliable partner. Together, using a water level (or its laser variation), you can mark the facade. An exact mark is made at each corner of the building.

Note! It is extremely important that the last mark matches the first mark. If the marks do not match, then the measurements are inaccurate. Accordingly, the procedure must be repeated. If you ignore this, you will end up with uneven walls.

Then you need to find the highest mark using the base as a guide. Next, a mark is placed at each corner from the base, which will show the level of the first strip.

We make sheathing for siding

One of important stages work is the manufacture of lathing. For this you can use wooden blocks.

Note! If the siding will be laid horizontally, then the sheathing should be installed only vertically, and vice versa.

To make the frame, it is necessary to prepare a sufficient quantity of bars with a cross-section of 50×50 mm and 25×80 mm. When purchasing, make sure that they are perfectly level, otherwise after installing the siding the wall will repeat the shape " sea ​​wave" When installing the lathing, you need to ensure the distance between the bars, which should be 30-40 cm. If you want to pre-insulate the facade, then the lathing is first made according to the width of the insulation. The frame for the insulation will be made perpendicular to the sheathing for the siding. It is also necessary to cover the windows with wooden blocks. After laying the insulation, the surface must be covered with a waterproofing film using a stapler. This film must be laid with an overlap of ten centimeters wide.

When everything is ready, you can begin making the frame directly for the siding. You can also use a metal profile for this. This has its advantages. For example, wooden blocks need to be treated with an antiseptic against corrosion. Moreover, under the influence weather conditions the bars may become deformed or dry out. Because of this, the siding may not hold up well. Concerning metal profile, then he is not in danger.

Siding installation. Technology

When installing siding, one mandatory condition must be met. It is to ensure that the siding moves under the influence of temperature changes. For this purpose, nails should be driven into the provided holes in the center. It is also important to drive nails carefully. Do not use excessive force to drive them in.

Note! Do not nail the nail head close to the sheathing panel. It is recommended to leave a gap of 1.5 mm. This also applies to self-tapping screws if you use them to secure siding.

Under no circumstances should the panel be allowed to stretch. Otherwise, the subsequent panel may become uneven, resulting in warping. There can be a distance of up to 400 mm between nails.

Sequence of installation work

Finishing the window opening

The first step is to line the window opening. For this purpose, you should take the window trim and cut it to the desired size.

The strip, which is mounted on the inner perimeter of the slope, is installed to the final strip. To begin with, the plank is installed on the lower slope, then on the side slope, and only lastly on the upper slope.

Installation of basement siding

Before installing siding on the facade, first decide whether it will be installed on the plinth. If yes, then this work needs to be done first. For this, a starting bar is set. It is extremely important to install it exactly horizontally. To accurately fit the first panel to the corner, its edge is trimmed. Next, the next panel is installed. When it comes to the last panel, it needs to be cut so that there is a small gap between the panel and the corner.

Installing siding on a wall

The first step is to mark the base ebb line using a level. It is on top of it that the starting bar will be installed. Next, the H-profile is mounted. It is necessary for beautiful joining of siding. Some decide to do without it. However, over time, dust can accumulate there, and moisture can also accumulate there.

Accordingly, the joint will be visible. Moreover, with strong gusts of wind, this joint may not withstand and tear off. For this reason, it is best to use an H-profile to connect siding. Next, the assembly of the panels begins. Naturally, installation begins with the lower starting strip, onto which the next regular strip is snapped. And so row after row, until the very top. As for the last row, then last panel must be adjusted to the exact size.

This method is used to install siding panels. The main advantage of the technology is that this work can be done without the help of specialists.

If you have already done this work, you can share your opinion. Perhaps you encountered some problems while working, tell us how you dealt with them. If you have questions, please ask us.

Video

This is how it works correct installation siding:

And this typical mistakes installation:

Photo