Cladding walls with brick is a reliable and durable way of finishing a facade, which can transform appearance Houses. However, brick itself does not insulate walls much, so if you want your home to be warm and energy-saving, you need to place insulation between the main and facing walls. In this article I will tell you in detail how to insulate the walls of a house under brick cladding.
The technique of facing bricks with insulation is quite complex and includes several main stages:
Below we will get acquainted with the main nuances of work at each of these stages.
Before you begin work on insulating the wall and further finishing it, you need to decide on the type of insulation. Currently, there are quite a lot of thermal insulation materials, however, the following thermal insulators are most often used for the stated purposes:
The thickness of insulation for walls made of brick or other materials depends on the climate in your region. If the winter temperature often drops below 25 degrees Celsius, 150 mm thick insulation should be used. If you live in a warmer climate, 100 mm thick insulation is sufficient.
As you can see, all materials have their own disadvantages and advantages. Therefore, everyone must decide for himself which better insulation use.
In addition to insulation, it is necessary to prepare other materials. You will need:
The next step is preparing the walls. To do this, you need to do the following manually:
If the house is recently built, you can start insulating and cladding it after completion interior decoration, i.e. after the walls have dried. Otherwise, the wall material will absorb moisture, which will lead to a number of negative consequences, such as wet insulation, mold, etc.
At this point, the work on preparing the facade is completed.
The diagram shows the construction of a brick wall with insulation
The next step is the installation of insulation. It must be said that insulation is often mounted on flexible connections during the construction of the facing wall. However, it is more convenient to first “grab” the slabs with dowels, then build the wall and install flexible connections.
Regardless of what type of insulation you use to insulate the walls, the installation instructions look like this:
During the installation process, make sure that there are no gaps between the insulation boards, as well as between the insulation and the waterproofed blind area.
To attach the insulation, simply press it against the wall and drill holes for the dowels through the slabs. After this, insert umbrellas into the holes and drive expansion nails into them.
To begin with, to simply “grab” the thermal insulation, a couple of dowels per slab are enough;
People often ask on forums whether insulation is needed between gas silicate and brick? Despite the fact that gas silicate itself has a low thermal conductivity coefficient, additional insulation will make your home even more comfortable and energy-saving.
It should be noted that according to this scheme, insulation is installed only on monolithic, brick and wooden walls. If the walls are made of aerated concrete, the work is carried out somewhat differently:
Vapor barrier in aerated concrete house it is necessary to install not only between the block and the brick, but also from the inside, i.e. from the side of the room.
After installing the insulation, you can begin laying bricks.
First of all, I would like to note that facing wall has quite a lot of weight, so it must be built on a foundation. If the foundation of the house was not originally designed for the construction of a facing wall, an additional shallow shallow foundation needs to be built around the perimeter of the house.
On our portal you can find detailed information about how it is done. The only thing, keep in mind that between the insulation and facing wall There should be a space of a few centimeters.
Before laying bricks, it is necessary to waterproof the foundation. To do this, lay several layers of roofing material on top of it. Further work is carried out in the following sequence:
Here, in fact, is all the information on how to insulate walls under facing bricks. The only thing, in conclusion, I would like to note is that the cladding process itself is quite complex, requiring highly qualified masons, so it is better to trust this stage work for specialists. True, the price of this service is also not small - on average it starts from 800 rubles per square meter.
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Conclusion about your home as a whole. Considering that you will be insulating attic floor(through which there were the most significant heat losses), and the fact that the thickness of the missing wall insulation is only 20-30mm, then we can advise the following. Insulate the attic this year and see how much more comfortable it becomes over the course of this summer and winter. If it’s normal, then, in principle, you don’t have to touch the walls. If it continues to be cold in winter (or hot in summer), then arrange facade works, and it is possible to take a foam thickness of 40mm to make it more convenient to install.
We continue our traditional series of articles from Yuri Voedilo (professional builder and repairman). Yuri writes:
IN Lately Heating prices are growing enormously, so many people pay great attention to external wall insulation. Therefore, I decided to pay attention to this topic. This article will discuss the insulation of external walls. brick house facing bricks. Next we will talk about the tricks of laying the brick itself and the need bulk insulation. Also, in the article we will give examples of laying out an arch.
The house is enclosed ceramic bricks has a very pleasant and neat appearance. But only under the condition that the brick is laid correctly, that is, the seams should be smooth and clean, and the brick itself should not be stained with mortar or have cracks.
To work we will need the following tools:
First, let's prepare a solution. All by standard scheme one part cement grade 400 and three parts sand, preferably not river sand, since the solution is river sand sit down very quickly. But if you don’t have any other sand, then add a plasticizer to the solution; you can buy it at any hardware store. The density of the mortar should be such that it can be easily scooped up with a trowel and applied to the brick. More and more often, they add to the mortar on which brick laying will be carried out. different types pigments (special dyes). Therefore, a little advice: before buying a brick, consider combining the color of the brick with the color of the seam itself. In our case, the client wanted a classic seam color, that is, gray.
There is a lot of information on the Internet about how to lay bricks, so I don’t think it’s worth writing about the basic principles. But there is not so much about the features of laying ceramic bricks, because... high-quality insulation brick houses require special attention.
The work will begin by laying out the corners. Masonry from facing bricks You only need to lay it on waterproofing. To do this, use roofing material or thick polyethylene film. In our case, the waterproofing was built into the foundation itself, so we started laying the masonry directly on the foundation. Having retreated 4-5 centimeters from the main wall, we will carry out the masonry. We retreat these 4-5 cm for an air gap, I will explain why later. You need to lay ceramics in the same way as ordinary bricks, but only under a metal rod with a cross-section of 8 by 8 or 10 by 10, 12 by 12 millimeters.
And this is how it is done: a metal rod is placed directly on the masonry itself along the front edge of the brick, and a solution is applied near it. In such a way that the thickness of the applied solution near the twig itself is no higher than the twig itself. And on the back side the solution was ten millimeters higher. This effect can be easily achieved if you use a construction trowel to cut the mortar along the twig and hold the trowel at an angle.
The vertical seam is applied in the same way, only the rod is placed vertically to the end side of the brick (poke). The twig itself will not stand, so you will have to hold it while applying the solution.
Note: after about 2-3 hours of work, you need to rub the seams with a small brush. At the same time, if there are holes or tears in the seams, be sure to seal them! Otherwise, when the temperature changes +/- degrees, water will get in there and when it freezes, it will tear the seam, and after a while, the brick itself. All drops of solution from the wall must also be wiped off with a rag, as after drying it will be much more difficult to wipe off. By the way, after some time, white spots may appear on the wall. This is the salt that was in the sand. There is nothing scary here; it can be easily wiped off with a rag, or you need to wait until the rain washes it off.
Laying facing bricks is a painstaking process that requires care. Therefore, be patient.
In order to lay an arch out of brick, we first need to make a frame for it. We don't need beauty here. The main thing is strength and even bending. Take a sheet USB thick 10 mm and use a jigsaw to cut out two half-moon strips at least 6 centimeters wide. The length and curve of the crescents are individual for each window.
Next, these crescents need to be twisted together, as shown in the photo below. For this we use old bars, their thickness can be different, but the width is the same from 10 to 12 centimeters. And the length is equal to the height of our windows.
We insert the bars between the two crescents and twist them with screws 45 mm long, after which the frame is ready for use.
Having installed the frame in the place where it will be arched window, we begin to cover the frame on top with bricks.
Only now we will lay the brick not horizontally, but vertically with the butt side on the face of the masonry. But since the length of the brick is 25 cm, and the width of our masonry is 17 cm (brick width 12.5 cm + air gap 4-5 cm), the brick will have to be cut to length. To cut bricks we will use a grinder with a diamond wheel for concrete.
The adjacent bricks of the main wall will also need to be cut at an angle. The arch should be flat in relation to the main wall at the same level or protrude outward by 2-4 cm, this is a matter of client taste. After a day, three arch frames can be safely disassembled. The arch is ready.
We will still fill the air gap that we left between the main wall and the ceramic brick. This an integral part of lining the house with facing bricks with insulation. The next question is: what kind of insulation should be between brick wall and facing bricks? To do this, we decided to use loose foam, which is sold in bags. Why this and not sheet foam?
Here's why. The first advantage: if for some reason the walls of the building were not level, then the loose foam plastic will not react in any way when backfilled. But with leafy ones you will have to suffer. The second advantage: mice can get into sheet foam and create a lot of passages and holes for themselves. It is impossible to make a move in loose foam because mice cannot climb on it. As they rake with their paws, they sharpen like a truck in the mud, remaining in place.
Before pouring foam into the wall, you need to close the cracks around the perimeter of windows and doors using mineral wool or sheet foam. Moreover, the latter is better, since when filling slopes it will be easier to apply putty on the foam.
Note: in order to safely insulate the walls of a brick house from the outside in windy weather, I do not recommend pouring polystyrene foam. All the foam will scatter all over your yard in the best case, and in the worst case it will even sweep away your neighbors.
Attention! We received feedback that with such insulation over the course of a year, polystyrene foam filled in this way can sag three meters in height of the house, about 60-70 cm. We have had experience in dismantling such walls. Experience shows that insulating voids has little effect. In this material, the photo showed that they had the opportunity to attach ordinary polystyrene foam to the walls, even with foam adhesive. And then lay the masonry. The difference in the price of materials is not significant.
This can be corrected by blowing perlite into the resulting voids in the upper part of the masonry.Yuri, the author of the article answers: To ensure shrinkage, we tamped foam chips every meter of height. In addition, for filling after two or three years, it is enough to remove the hem and do the filling. And yet, the difference in price is not significant, but there are two but... 1. In such foam, mice are found three times less often and not for long, since it is not convenient for them to make moves there and they simply fall down. 2. Using sheet foam you need more or less Smooth surface, for bulk it is of no use.
Advice: few builders know this secret: when all the work on insulating a house with bricks is completed, spare no expense and buy a couple of canisters of liquid silicone at a construction supermarket. And carefully paint all the brickwork, especially the seams, they can even be filled in. After drying, a barely noticeable transparent film will remain on the wall. Thanks to it, your home will look like new for 5-10 years longer. If you don’t have enough money for liquid silicone, then replace it with a primer deep penetration, just remember no drips on the brick, otherwise after drying you will be in for a very unpleasant surprise. And so, all work on laying facing bricks and insulating the brick house is completed. Although this type of insulation is a little expensive, it will serve you for many years.
Brick is the most common material for constructing load-bearing walls. It is successfully used both in multi-storey industrial construction, and in private low-rise buildings. The only drawback of brick is its low thermal insulation qualities. To solve this problem, additional insulation of the walls is carried out. Brickwork with insulation inside makes it possible to build warm house at minimum costs time and finances.
More recently, the issue of thermal insulation of brick buildings was resolved in a simple way- increasing the thickness of the wall. Yes, for middle zone The usual wall thickness was 3 - 3.5 bricks, and in the northern regions it could reach 1 - 1.5 m. This is due to the high thermal conductivity coefficient of the brick, which causes large heat losses.
It was so thick forced measure in the absence of effective and inexpensive thermal insulation materials. Another factor promoting the use of thick wall technology in Soviet time, brick was relatively cheap. This made it possible to simplify masonry technology by eliminating the use of thermal insulation materials.
However, recently this approach has become too wasteful from a financial point of view: in addition to the cost of bricks, the costs of arranging reinforced foundations are increasing.
Another problem that you may encounter when installing brickwork without thermal insulation is a shift in the dew point indoors.
In construction, the dew point is the point inside or outside street walls buildings where the cooled steam contained in the air begins to condense. The transformation of steam into dew occurs upon contact warm air with cold surfaces.
The most preferable option is to locate the dew point outside the building, in which case the condensing moisture will simply evaporate under the influence of wind and sun. It is much worse if the dew point is shifted indoors. Dampness generated by internal surfaces walls, negatively affects the microclimate in the house, becoming a source high humidity and the cause of mold and mildew.
Uninsulated walls winter frosts cool over their entire thickness, resulting in steam condensation on their internal surfaces.
In areas where sub-zero temperatures are established in the cold season, the technology of laying bricks with insulation is the only acceptable one.
One of the types of insulated walls is three-layer brickwork. Its design looks like this:
On the image:
No. 1 - interior decoration.
No. 2 - load-bearing wall of the building.
No. 3 - insulation between brickwork.
No. 4 - ventilation gap between the internal insulation and the facing wall.
№5 - outer wall with brick lining.
No. 6 - internal reinforcement connecting the internal and external walls.
Brickwork with insulation inside, like others construction technologies, has its pros and cons. To her positive qualities should include:
Among the disadvantages of multi-layer walls are:
A wide range of insulation materials that meet the recommendations of SNiP can be used as a heat-insulating material.
Firstly, the thermal conductivity of the material must be such as to ensure protection of interior spaces at the maximum minus values typical for a given region.
You can familiarize yourself with the thermal insulation performance of insulation in the manufacturer’s instructions on its packaging or in the tables technical characteristics SNiP. By comparing these indicators with winter minimum temperatures, we can calculate required thickness insulation layer.
Secondly, the insulation must have sufficient vapor permeability. Otherwise, moisture will accumulate inside it, which will lead to its loss of thermal insulation qualities.
And thirdly, the internal insulation must be fire resistant. Due to its non-flammability, it will not only not support combustion, but will also create a fire-retardant layer inside the masonry.
A large family of insulation materials based on mineral fibers have excellent heat-saving characteristics. They are made by churning molten minerals in a centrifuge: glass, basalt, slag, etc. Low heat transfer in in this case achieved due to the high porosity of the material - air gaps do not allow cold to penetrate through the mineral wool.
Absolutely not flammable, but very afraid of dampness. When wet, it almost completely loses its heat-saving properties, so when laying it, care must be taken to ensure effective waterproofing.
Foamed - another one often used in three-layer masonry thermal insulation material.
It is produced by saturating liquid polystyrene with air, which after hardening takes the form of porous round granules. To fill wells in the wall, it can be used in the form of sheets or as bulk material. It is much less afraid of dampness than mineral wool, but unlike it it is flammable, so walls insulated with polystyrene foam should be protected from open fire. Even if the fire does not damage the brickwork, it will cause burnout and melting of the polystyrene foam inside it. To replace the insulation, you will have to carry out labor-intensive and expensive work to dismantle the facing part of the wall.
In private construction, sometimes three-layer masonry is made by backfilling internal wells with various mineral fillers: slag, expanded clay, etc. This technique is somewhat cheaper and simpler than laying mini-slabs or expanded polystyrene sheets, but its effectiveness is much lower. This is due to the lower thermal protection of slag and expanded clay.
Slag is very hygroscopic - it tends to absorb and retain moisture, which can cause an increase in its thermal conductivity and premature destruction of adjacent layers of brick.
Laying a wall with insulation is carried out in several stages.
For the construction of a waterproofing layer, it is not recommended to use “blind” materials, such as roofing felt. This will eliminate the possibility of free gas exchange between external environment And interior spaces Houses. In external wall Ventilation ducts should be left every 0.5 - 1 m - vertical seams between the bricks that are not filled with mortar.
Three-layer brickwork allows you to solve many problems that arise when using housing in winter. The process of constructing such walls is shown in the video below..
The use of polystyrene foam as insulation for external walls with some kind of federal regulatory documents not limited. However, there is Order No. 18 of the Ministry of Regional Construction dated May 23, 2008 “On the use of three-layer wall enclosing structures with inner layer from slab effective insulation and a facing layer of brickwork during the construction of civil buildings in the Moscow region.”
This order of the Ministry of Regional Construction states that those used in last years During the construction of frame-monolithic multi-storey residential buildings, three-layer external wall structures with an inner layer of slab insulation and a facing layer of brickwork have significant damage to a significant number of buildings in use. As a rule, design defects are identified during the operation of buildings and the elimination of construction defects by the operating organizations is almost impossible.
The air exchange process through external walls - “wall breathing”, is a natural and inevitable physical process release of moisture in the form of steam from inside the house to the outside. And if the layers of the “pie” of the wall have different vapor permeability, with the outer ones being less than the inner ones, as is the case with foam plastic and aerated concrete blocks, then such moisture has nowhere to go due to different bandwidth materials. As a result, it accumulates in the form of condensate at the boundary of such a difference in vapor permeability. And if the outer facing layer is thin enough, and the inner one is thick enough, so that during severe cold weather the temperature in the place where condensate accumulates will be less than zero, this leads to freezing of moisture inside the material, which in turn leads to loss of thermal insulation properties and destruction of the insulation.
In addition, the microclimate in the premises of the house can be affected by the accumulation of moisture in the wall. Because the wet wall no comfortable microclimate is beneficial.
In order to prevent possible negative consequences of using such solutions in enclosing structures, the Ministry of Regional Development prohibits municipalities of the Moscow region, developers, design and contracting organizations from using three-layer wall enclosing structures with an inner layer of slab effective insulation and a facing layer when designing buildings and structures in the Moscow region. from brickwork.
These are sad things for polystyrene foam and other effective slab insulation materials based on it when used for thermal insulation of external walls in three-layer wall enclosing structures. However, there remains the possibility of using these materials in ventilated facade systems.
Of course, it is possible to use three-layer wall enclosing structures in private housing construction. Just take into account that the facing brickwork in this case will only perform the function of exterior finishing and is derived from the thermal insulation calculation.
