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» Insulation of a brick house from the outside. How to insulate a house made of sand-lime brick? Insulation of a silicate brick house

Insulation of a brick house from the outside. How to insulate a house made of sand-lime brick? Insulation of a silicate brick house

Professional insulation of a house is a complex and lengthy process that will delight residents with comfortable and warm room V winter time. Thanks to the insulation of a brick building, you will be able to reduce energy costs for home heating.

The insulation of brick walls differs from the insulation of concrete or wooden structures. To identify the material for thermal insulation, you will need to install the type of brick.

There are two types of brick by density:

  1. The hollow one weighs less; inside there are voids filled with air.
  2. Solid - solid type of brick.

There are two types of masonry: solid and construction with the formation of air voids. During the second type of masonry the heat-insulating element is poured into the inside of the wall- special air pocket.

Why is thermal insulation needed?

The main function of thermal insulation is energy saving and payments for housing and communal services. The walls and ceiling can be covered with heat-insulating material on both sides, and the windows and floor - on the inside.

Additionally, you can seal window and door cracks, as well as cover the walls separating the house from the street with insulating material.

Thermal insulation of the room will help get rid of mold and other fungi that live inside damp and cold walls.

Mold formed due to a large difference in temperature external and internal surfaces of the wall. It is better to insulate a brick wall on both sides.

Modern materials

The strength of the finish depends on the choice of materials and degree of thermal insulation. Some materials are better suited for finishing the inside of walls and cracks, while some are produced specifically for the outside.

As materials for insulation brick houses are used:

  • mineral wool;
  • Styrofoam;
  • extruded polystyrene foam;
  • polyurethane foam;
  • plaster;
  • thermal panels.

Let's look at each type in more detail.

Mineral wool

Mineral wool is a substance consisting of fused silicone fibers mixed with metallurgical waste.

The most important advantages of mineral wool are its high heat conductivity coefficient, as well as no flammable elements in its composition. Vata is a durable material, it is difficult to tear or break its integrity.

cotton wool easily repels water and does not absorb rainfall. The substance ideally isolates the room from sound signals and noise. The material does not melt or deform under high temperature. It is resistant to chemicals and biological agents. Mineral wool is easy to install.

Resins, phenol and heavy metals that make up cotton wool, may adversely affect the human respiratory system. Expanded polystyrene, silicate fiber and polyurethane foam are considered less harmful materials for construction.

Styrofoam

Foam plastic occupies a leading position among materials used for insulation of residential premises.

He low cost, easy to install. A thin layer of polystyrene foam is enough to insulate a living space and isolate it from external noise.

Styrofoam has the following advantages:

  • does not deteriorate under the influence of chemicals;
  • has increased density;
  • does not absorb moisture, rain and precipitation;
  • does not lose shape under the influence of mechanical damage;
  • it is enough to lay a layer of foam plastic that will be ten times thinner than the wall to prevent the cold from penetrating into the room;
  • the material is durable and can last up to half a century;
  • weighs little;
  • resistant to decomposition processes;

Polystyrene foam is used as a heat-insulating material for insulating roofs, walls, façade structures, foundation slabs and ground floor.

Extruded polystyrene foam

Expanded polystyrene is produced by mixing particles with a blowing agent polymer metal. A sheet is melted from a liquid mixture of these substances. After hardening the sheet becomes light and durable.

Advantages:

  • the material is durable and can withstand heavy loads;
  • resistant to action chemical substances And high temperatures;
  • does not allow or absorb moisture;
  • lasts a long time;
  • does not allow harmful fumes to pass through;
  • ecologically pure;
  • does not ignite.

Due to its low vapor permeability, expanded polystyrene promotes the formation of mold and mildew.

This feature contributes to the destruction of the supporting structure of the house and deterioration in the health of residents. This material is used only for insulating facades in buildings whose height does not exceed nine floors.

Polyurethane foam

Polyurethane is a type of plastic. He has a foamy texture, A gaseous substance in its composition reaches 90 percent.

Polyurethane is easy to manufacture and can be made directly on the construction site.

The advantages of this material include:

  • adheres well to any type of wall: brick, concrete, stone, wood, etc.;
  • there is no need to carry out additional treatment of the wall surface;
  • increases the strength of walls and partitions;
  • does not respond to temperature changes;
  • forms a single solid structure without gaps or seams.

Material may wear out quickly as a result of negative action ultraviolet rays. This material must be protected with plaster.

The insulation does not burn, but will begin to melt under the influence of high temperatures, so you should not use it near smelting shops and in production.

Warm plaster

Plaster is inexpensive has adhesion to different surfaces , does not ignite, has a bactericidal effect, is non-toxic, resistant to moisture penetration.

If water gets on the plaster it can cause it to freeze and development of fungal formations inside the wall.

Thermal panels

Thermal panels give the facade a respectable appearance, as well as perfectly insulate a residential building. They consist of several layers of polystyrene foam and polyurethane foam with the addition of air. Artificial stone is used for decoration.

The benefits include:

  • environmentally friendly solution for thermal insulation;
  • installation does not depend on the time of year and weather conditions;
  • their use reduces the installation time.

The disadvantages include:

  • Before installation, the wall surface must be carefully leveled;
  • They are not cheap, especially the corner elements.

What is the best way to insulate a living space?

The insulation is selected depending on material, from which the walls are made.

Housing from concrete slabs thermally insulated with foam plastic or mineral wool. Stone house insulated using the same mineral wool or polyurethane foam.

It is good to insulate walls made of gas silicate blocks with mineral slabs or polystyrene. These materials have good thermal insulation properties and have a long service life, they will be good protection from the cold for walls made of gas silicate.

For insulation of houses made of foam blocks the following materials are used:

  • mineral wool;
  • expanded polystyrene;
  • cork;
  • penofol;
  • polyurethane foam.

For insulation of residential premises made of aerated concrete good fit:

  • plaster;
  • Styrofoam;
  • mineral wool;
  • polyurethane foam.

These materials perfectly protect walls aerated concrete house from freezing and will increase the service life of the building.

Brick walls insulated with the following materials:

  • mineral wool;
  • expanded polystyrene;
  • Styrofoam;
  • polyurethane foam;

How to properly insulate a brick house from the outside with your own hands?

It is not difficult to insulate a living space using foam plates. It is enough to adhere to the following algorithm of actions.

Previously from the wall surface debris and dirt must be removed. Then level it with plaster.

Important: treat the wall with primer to achieve evenness, and then wait for it to dry. The foam plates will lie firmly on the primed surface.

Then you need nail horizontally starting profile . The plates are glued to the wall starting from the bottom edge. You can treat the wall with glue or apply the substance directly to the slabs using a spatula.

The laying of the plates must be done staggered. When the glue dries, the boards should be secured with dowels. The gap between the plates must be sealed with the same material or filler.

At the last stages of masonry the slabs are secured using a mesh, and the dried facade must be covered with plaster.

Insulating a house with your own hands is not an easy task, but it can be done with some preparation. Depending on the material of the walls, insulation is selected. The choice of material is also influenced by its cost, heat-insulating and waterproof qualities, as well as environmental friendliness and safety for the health of residents.

Insulating a brick house with your own hands: video instructions.

Content

Brick is a classic material for building a house, designed to last for many decades of use. The thermal conductivity of brick walls depends on its thickness - the number of rows of masonry. If in the first winter after construction the wall freezes in brick house, this means that the construction technology is violated or the thickness of the enclosing structures is insufficient. In this case, it is necessary to resolve the issue of thermal insulation of the external walls of the building. Priority should be given to external insulation, but its installation is not always possible. Let's look at how to insulate a brick house from the inside, what materials are preferable to use and how to properly carry out the installation of thermal insulation.

How to insulate internal brick walls of a house Features of wall insulation

Human activity is associated with a large release of heat and moisture. Bodies radiate heat Appliances. Moisture is released during breathing, during cooking, using water for hygiene procedures, washing dishes, and watering flowers. And the warmer the air, the better it retains moisture.

If the walls are not insulated enough, condensation will form on them when the heated, humid air cools. It will provoke the development of fungus, and on the surface of the walls and ceiling there will be dark spots. Fungal spores are harmful to human health - they enter the respiratory system, causing asthma attacks or allergic reaction. In addition, mold has a destructive effect on the materials from which the walls are built and irreparably damages the finish.


Wall with and without insulation

Before insulating the walls of a brick house from the inside, it is advisable to understand how this will affect the operating conditions of the external walls and the microclimate in the room.

Where to place the insulation?

It is correct to insulate buildings from the outside, otherwise condensation of moisture from steam cannot be avoided when warm air comes into contact with a cold front (dew point). Let's consider three types of brick walls:

  • There is no insulation. The dew point is located in the thickness of the wall, so it accumulates moisture in winter months, becomes damp and breaks down over time.
  • The insulating layer is located on the side of the room. The wall freezes through, causing the dew point to shift toward the room, to the inner surface of the enclosing structure. Because of this, moisture condenses between the heat insulator and the wall. To avoid dampness of the wall, it is necessary to provide effective ventilation of the room.
  • The insulating layer is laid on the street side. The wall does not freeze, so it remains dry and freely releases steam outside. It is important that there is a ventilation gap between the insulating layer and the brickwork to remove moisture coming from the room.

Internal instead of external

It is obvious that insulating a brick house from the inside is not The best decision. However, you have to resort to it if:

  • The building is an architectural monument, and it is prohibited to make changes to appearance facade.
  • The walls of an apartment in a multi-story building freeze. According to current standards, it is forbidden to install structures that change the appearance of the building without permission.
  • The buildings are located close to each other, which makes it impossible to carry out work on external insulation of the walls.
  • The external masonry of the house is made of expensive facing bricks and it's a pity to close it new finishing, but to lay a new outer layer of decorative brick After installing thermal insulation, additional serious financial investments are required.

The disadvantages of insulating internal walls include reducing the space of the room due to the fastening of insulation and the base for finishing. The thickness of the thermal insulation “pie” is usually at least 10 cm.

When installing a heat insulator inside the house, it is important to consider that the insulation internal surfaces walls threatens condensation, which should not be allowed.


The ventilation gap improves the thermal conductivity of the wall

Vapor permeability

In order for the living space to breathe well and the air not to be overly humidified, high-quality ventilation is necessary. It is easy to breathe in buildings with brick walls, since the material is vapor permeable due to its porous structure. And so that excess moisture does not condense under the layer of insulation on the wall, but freely leaves the room, it is necessary to comply important rule– vapor permeability should increase towards outside, i.e. to the street.

This means that when insulating brick walls from the inside, you cannot use materials that allow steam to pass through better than the brick itself. Otherwise, this will lead to condensation settling on the structures. That is, covering a freezing wall with plasterboard will provoke constant dampening of the structures during the cold season.

Material selection criteria

When choosing how to insulate a brick wall from the inside, it is important to take into account the thermal insulation parameters of the material, as well as its vapor permeability. To protect freezing brick walls from contact with steam, choose one of three options:

  • They use a polymer heat insulator that does not allow steam to pass through. Extruded polystyrene foam, high-density foam (loose material is vapor-permeable), penofol, sprayed polyurethane foam will help to insulate walls from the inside.
  • Mineral wool insulation (as well as loose foam) is laid using high-quality hydro- and vapor barrier. Fiber insulation allows steam to pass through and tends to accumulate moisture. Basalt wool does not collapse under the influence of water, but its insulating properties deteriorate sharply.
  • A thick layer of heat-insulating plaster is applied to the enclosing structures.

When deciding how best to insulate your brick house, take into account the method of installing the heat insulator. In almost all cases, you can do the insulation from the inside yourself. An exception is spraying polyurethane foam, since the work requires the use of special equipment.

Properties of materials and installation technologies

Let’s figure out which insulation is best for the walls of a brick house, taking into account the advantages and disadvantages of each option, as well as the installation features of popular materials.

Note! The thickness of the thermal insulation layer is calculated individually, taking into account the heat loss of the house and the thermal insulation properties of the selected material!

Mineral wool

Internal insulation brick walls with mineral wool slabs have a certain specificity due to the vapor-permeable structure of the material. The heat insulator must be covered on both sides with a vapor barrier film, ensuring tightness in order to prevent heated moist air from contacting the enclosing structures.


Scheme of insulation of internal brick walls with mineral wool

Work progress:

  • a vapor barrier film and joints are attached to the wall (with an overlap on the adjacent planes of the walls, floor and ceiling) roll material are securely taped;
  • a vertical sheathing is installed in increments slightly smaller than the width of the heat insulator, the depth of the cells should correspond to the thickness of the insulation;
  • Mineral wool slabs are inserted into the cells;
  • attached on top vapor barrier material with hermetically sealed joining seams;
  • a counter-lattice is inserted to secure the sheathing made of chipboard sheets, plasterboard or other materials.

Extruded polystyrene foam

Advantages modern material– excellent thermal insulation properties, lightness and strength. Extruded polystyrene foam is fire resistant. It is possible to insulate structures with this material by analogy with mineral wool, but the lathing promotes the formation of cold bridges, which lead to the formation of condensation zones.


Scheme for insulating brick walls with polystyrene foam indoors
Let's look at how to properly insulate a brick wall from the inside using extruded polystyrene foam:
  • the surface is cleaned, leveled with a thin layer of plaster and primed;
  • using polyurethane foam or foam glue, slabs of foamed polymer are glued to the wall - the elements are placed with a shift of half the width to avoid long vertical seams;
  • the joints are filled polyurethane foam, after hardening, the excess is cut off.

The best option after this work may be gluing reinforcing mesh and plastering the surface for painting or wallpapering. You can also use “fungi” dowels to attach pieces of metal profiles about 10 cm long, onto which you can then sew drywall. But the use of “fungi” violates the integrity of the heat-insulating layer.

Styrofoam

The advantage of polystyrene foam is its low cost; in all other respects it is significantly inferior to extruded polystyrene foam. Main disadvantage material – flammability with release of toxic substances. Foam plastic with a density of at least 35 kg/m 3 can be used as a heat insulator. To insulate the walls of a brick house from the inside, high-density material (about 50 kg/m3) can be installed using the technology of fastening extruded polystyrene foam, and looser, steam-permeable material can be used as mineral wool. In this case, the joints between the thermal insulation elements and the sheathing are sealed with polyurethane foam.


Scheme of insulating walls from the inside with foam plastic

Penofol

Thermal insulation made of polyethylene foam can have a foil coating on one side or on both sides. The material is characterized by its low thickness and high thermal insulation properties. Penofol with a thickness of 4 mm can replace mineral wool with a thickness of 80 mm. At the same time, it is often used together with mineral wool slabs to increase the thermal insulation properties of the “pie”, while simultaneously reducing its thickness. In this case, it is attached instead vapor barrier film after laying the heat insulator into the sheathing.

You can make thermal insulation of walls and partitions from foam foam alone. Slats with a thickness of 20 mm or more are stuffed onto the walls to create an air gap. Using staples, horizontal strips of penofol are mounted with a foil layer to the room, gluing the joints with aluminum tape. Then they fill the counter-lattice for cladding the walls for finishing. The foil layer reflects thermal radiation, helping to retain heat in the house.

Sprayed polyurethane foam

Sprayed polyurethane foam will help create a warm wall without cold bridges. The foamed polymer is applied in an even layer to the prepared surface using special equipment. If the estimated layer thickness exceeds 3–4 cm, it is recommended to install formwork lathing, which will serve as the basis for fastening the sheathing under finishing. The disadvantage of the material is high price works


Internal insulated walls with polyurethane foam

Plaster

Plastering walls – classic way insulation. This a good option, if you don’t want to turn the room into a sealed box with artificial ventilation, since the plaster layer is “breathable”, like the brick wall itself. The disadvantages include the duration and labor intensity of “wet” work - you will have to plaster in several layers to achieve the required thickness of thermal protection.


Application of plaster for brick walls

Conclusion

Knowing how to insulate a brick wall from the inside using different kinds materials, their advantages and disadvantages, easier to choose suitable option. If you plan to do the whole complex of work with your own hands, you must follow the instructions, because violating the technology can have serious consequences in the form of mold on the walls and gradual destruction brickwork. We must not forget that internal insulation requires arrangement supply and exhaust ventilation which will remove excess moisture.

In private construction, brick is still particularly popular for building the walls of a house. Houses built of brick can be found almost everywhere. But, despite its excellent performance qualities, such a house requires insulation. The issue of insulating a brick house is especially acute today, when the cost of energy is quite high and every kilowatt of energy has to be saved. The solution in this situation is to create reliable thermal insulation of the house, which can reduce heat loss to a minimum. All work on arranging thermal insulation can be done on your own, especially since there is nothing complicated in how to insulate a brick house.

Specifics of insulation of a brick house

When planning to insulate a brick house, you must remember that insulating a house is a whole range of work aimed at reducing heat loss through the roof, walls, floor and foundation. And in order to answer the question of how to properly insulate a brick house, you will first have to find out what kind of brick and what kind of masonry the house is built from, consider the types of insulation of a brick house and decide on the materials for its insulation.

Features of brick walls

Unlike concrete or wooden walls, the brick walls have a row characteristic features. Firstly, the walls can be made of solid or hollow brick. The thermal conductivity of a brick wall depends on this, the indicator of which is in the middle between wood 0.2 W/(m K) and concrete 1.5 W/(m K) and amounts to 0.4 W/(m K). Secondly, the masonry can be continuous and with an air pocket (well masonry). Depending on what type of brick is used and what kind of masonry is made, the thickness of the walls changes, and at the same time performance characteristics And required thickness thermal insulation layer.

Important! The average thermal conductivity values ​​are shown above. Depending on the type of wood and the materials used for the production of brick and concrete, thermal conductivity indicators may fluctuate in one direction or another. Thus, concrete with the addition of expanded clay has a thermal conductivity of 0.66 W/(m K), solid sand-lime brick 0.7 W/(m K), and pine 0.09 W/(m K). Therefore, before you start insulating the walls of your house, it is important to know what they are made of and how thick they are.

Regarding the masonry method, it should be noted that with continuous masonry, insulation is placed over the entire area of ​​the wall on one or both sides. In this case, the thickness of the layer directly depends on the thickness of the wall: the thicker the wall, the smaller the layer will be required. In the case of well masonry, the insulation is placed inside the wall, between the bricks. This approach is also called in-wall insulation. It can provide additional thermal insulation by air gap between the outer and inner walls, and when using heat-insulating material it can reduce heat loss by half.

Types of insulation

There are three types of insulation: external, internal, and internal. External insulation is the most popular and involves placing insulation on the outside of the building. This approach will provide additional protection walls from various types natural phenomena. Unfortunately, external insulation of a brick house has its drawbacks - the seasonality of the work and the fairly high cost of materials. Internal insulation of a house, in addition to wall insulation, includes insulation interfloor ceilings, floor, attic and roof. Internal insulation can be carried out almost at any time of the year. The third type is intra-wall insulation; it can only be performed at the stage of wall construction. Therefore, those who purchased an already built house will not be able to perform this type of insulation.

Characteristics of thermal insulation materials

It is necessary to select materials for insulating a brick house with special care, paying attention to their characteristics. There are several reasons for this. Firstly, some thermal insulation materials can only be used for interior decoration, some are for outdoor use only. Secondly, the total weight and thickness of the insulating layer will depend on the density of the material and its thermal conductivity coefficient. Thirdly, from the resistance of the material to various types negative impacts depends on its durability and ability to maintain its performance qualities. Fourthly, than more natural material, all the better. Below are the main characteristics with their brief description, to which special attention should be paid.

  • Coefficient of thermal conductivity. The lower this indicator, the smaller the thickness of the thermal insulation layer will be.
  • Water absorption coefficient. Just as in the case of thermal conductivity, the lower this indicator, the better. The water absorption of a material indicates its resistance to moisture absorption.
  • Density. Essentially, this indicator reflects the mass of thermal insulation. The higher it is, the heavier the material.
  • Flammability class. There are four flammability classes in total. Materials of class G1 stop burning without a fire source, so their use is more preferable in construction.
  • Durability of the material. With this indicator everything is simple. It indicates how much this material will serve without losing its performance characteristics.
  • Vapor capacity. The ability of the material to “breathe”, allowing moist air to pass through it, will be very useful for internal insulation of premises, which will only increase comfortable living in the house.
  • Soundproofing abilities. Some heat-insulating materials also have excellent sound-proofing properties, which allows you to significantly save on special sound-proofing materials.
  • Environmental friendliness. This indicator only indicates the naturalness of the materials and will be useful for those who strive to make their home as safe as possible for living in it.
  • Difficulty of installation. This indicator only affects the speed and ease of installation, which will be especially useful for beginners in the construction business.

IN modern construction Do-it-yourself insulation of a brick house is carried out using various materials. Below are the usual artificial materials and natural ones that are gaining popularity again:

  • Mineral wool. Perhaps the most commonly used thermal insulation. Its thermal conductivity coefficient is 0.041-0.044 W/(m.K) and its density is from 20 kg/m3 to 200 kg/m3. Among the disadvantages, high moisture absorption should be noted. More suitable for internal insulation.
  • Expanded polystyrene (foam). The second most popular insulation material. Thermal conductivity coefficient 0.033 - 0.037 W/(m.K), density 11 to 35 kg/m3. This material practically does not absorb moisture, but at the same time its vapor permeability is practically zero. In addition, it is fragile, flammable and releases toxic substances when burned. Can be used both inside and outside the building.
  • Extruded polystyrene foam. Thermal conductivity coefficient is 0.028 - 0.032 W/(m.K), density is from 25 to 38 kg/m3. Unlike regular foam, extruded polystyrene foam is stronger, but otherwise they are almost identical. Suitable for external and internal work.
  • Expanded clay. The thermal conductivity coefficient ranges from 0.10 to 0.18 W/(m.K), density 200 - 800 kg/m3. Quite a narrow range of applications. Mainly added to concrete for foundation or construction monolithic frame Houses. It can also be used for in-wall insulation.
  • "Warm" plaster. The thermal conductivity coefficient is 0.065 W/(m.K), density 200 - 340 kg/m3. This material has quite a lot of advantages - sound insulation, vapor permeability, low water permeability, non-flammability, etc. But there are two significant drawbacks. The first is that the maximum layer of such plaster should not exceed 50 mm, the second is that it is heavy, which entails the need for a reinforced foundation. But in general, this is an excellent insulation material for both external and internal work.
  • Cork insulation. The thermal conductivity coefficient is 0.045 - 0.06 W/(m.K), density 240 - 250 kg/m3. This natural material Ideal for internal insulation due to its performance properties. The only serious disadvantage is the high degree of flammability. Best used for internal insulation.
  • Ecowool or cellulose wadding . The thermal conductivity coefficient is 0.032 - 0.038 W/(m.K), density 30 - 75 kg/m3. Ecowool obtained as a result of processing cellulose perfectly absorbs moisture and does not tolerate mechanical loads. Used only for internal insulation. It is usually used to insulate attics.

When starting to insulate an already built brick house, first of all you need to do small project, indicating in it all areas that require insulation with the materials used and their quantity. It should be remembered that for internal and external works are used various materials. If the house is under construction, then everything necessary calculations indicated in project documentation All that remains is to purchase everything you need and start working.

As noted earlier, this type of insulation can only be carried out at the stage of wall construction. To do this you need to do the following:

  1. First we lay the outer wall, where every 5 rows of brick we insert a metal pin made of wire with a diameter of 5 mm into the seam. We select the length of the pin in such a way as to recess it by 2 - 3 cm and the remaining part of the wire should be 2 - 3 cm greater than the thickness of the heat-insulating material used;
  2. as soon as an external wall 1 - 1.5 m high has been erected, we begin installing the thermal insulation in place, resting the materials on the pins;
  3. at the end we carry out the masonry interior wall, after which we raise the outer one again. And so on to the very top.

The method described above is suitable for materials produced in mats or slabs, such as polystyrene foam, mineral wool or extruded polystyrene foam. You can also use expanded clay. To do this, you will have to erect both walls at once to a height of 1 - 1.5 m, leaving a gap of 10 - 15 cm between them and tying them together with metal pins at the seams of the masonry. Then we pour expanded clay inside and continue building the walls. For this method of insulation, you should choose expanded clay of a large fraction. Since it has less density and hence its overall weight will be less.

Important! You don’t have to limit yourself to just in-wall insulation of a brick house. The walls of such a house can be additionally insulated from the outside.

Insulation of a brick house from the outside

External insulation of a brick house consists of insulating the walls, basement and outer walls of the foundation. The technology for insulating a brick house from the outside consists of cleaning the walls of the building from construction debris and dirt in order to further attach a multi-layer thermal insulation cake to them or install a curtain structure with thermal insulation placed inside on top of the bare walls. Materials you can use include polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam, and “warm” plaster. In this case, one simple rule must be observed - the sequence of arrangement of materials for insulating the walls of a brick house from the outside should be such that the vapor permeability of each subsequent layer increases towards the outer edge.

To insulate the walls of a brick house from the outside with polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam, you need to do the following. Perform basic plastering of the walls to smooth out the main unevenness, then clean the surface of dirt and treat it with a primer. Then, in one of two ways, either with glue or with the help of facade dowels “umbrellas”, we fix the sheets of thermal insulation to the wall.

If you chose the first method, then you need to apply glue to the surface of the sheet and press it tightly against the wall. We carry out the work from the bottom up, placing the sheets gradually row by row. In this case, we shift each next row relative to the previous one, arranging the sheets in a checkerboard pattern. In this simple way, the stability of the entire structure is achieved. When fastening using facade dowels, we perform the same operations, with the difference that the glue is applied pointwise to the surface of the sheet in small portions. Then, after gluing, we drill a hole in the wall through the sheet into which we insert the dowel. We reinforce the resulting surface with a special mesh, plaster it and finish it with paint or decorative plaster.

Video: insulating a brick house from the outside with polystyrene foam

Another popular way of external wall insulation is to create ventilated facade. The creation work is as follows. The first thing you need to do is place a layer of vapor barrier on the surface of the wall, then create and anchor a metal or wooden frame. After this, we place between the frame slats thermal insulation material, on top of which we lay a layer of waterproofing. For a ventilated façade, basalt or mineral wool. We fix the heat- and waterproofing materials to the wall using the already familiar façade dowels with a wide head. At the end we install external cladding from siding, porcelain stoneware or other material.

The simplest and most accessible option for external insulation is to use "warm" plasters. The work consists of cleaning the walls from dirt, after which their surface is impregnated with a primer. Next it is fixed on the wall plaster mesh and beacons on which “warm” plaster will be applied. After the plastered walls have dried, they can be finished with decorative bark beetle plaster, clinker tiles, decorative facade brick or just paint it.

Insulation of the foundation and basement of a brick house is carried out by analogy with walls, with the only difference that it is not customary to create a ventilated façade for the foundation or basement. Most often, insulation is performed with polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam, clinker tiles or “warm” plaster.

Insulation of a brick house from the inside

Heat loss through external walls is only part of total heat loss. Most of the heat is lost through the roof and floor of a brick house. Of course, to more reliably retain heat, you can insulate the walls from the inside, and this will require very little effort. Let's consider the internal insulation of a brick house as it is being built, starting from the floor and ending with the roof.

Floor insulation in a brick house

It is best to insulate floors in a brick house during its construction. It is also possible to insulate an already built house, but this is associated with increased labor costs. This is due to the need to dismantle and repair an existing wooden or concrete floor. Floor insulation is carried out using polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam, mineral and basalt wool or expanded clay. Separately, we should highlight the “warm floor” system, which, in combination with conventional insulation, will retain heat and provide additional heating to the house.

During the construction of a new house, insulation wooden floors is done as follows:

  • Having created a structure of joists and a subfloor made of waterproof plywood, we lay a layer of waterproofing on top of them. Edges between each other waterproofing material let it overlap, and bring the edges along the perimeter up with an overlap of 10 - 15 cm;
  • Next, we place insulation in the space between the joists. If desired, a layer of vapor barrier can be laid on top of the insulation;
  • the next will be a rough floor made of boards, on top of which the finishing floor and floor covering will be laid.

If the house has two or more floors, then the insulation of the floors of the upper floors will also be insulation of the ceiling in a brick house. In fact, you will have to create a wooden floor on joists with insulation inside on the second floor.

Creating thermal insulation in an already built brick house begins with dismantling and repairing the wooden floor. After which, if necessary, excess soil is excavated, a new substrate of sand and crushed stone is backfilled and compacted. Finally, the structure is assembled from logs and insulation according to the scheme described above.

While a wooden floor can still be dismantled with minimal labor, a concrete floor will require enormous effort and a lot of time to remove the old screed. Therefore, it is extremely important to insulate concrete floors during the construction stage of a house. The work itself is as follows:

  • After creating and compacting a cushion of sand and crushed stone on the ground, we perform rough screed, lay a layer of waterproofing on top;

Important! To reduce the thermal conductivity of concrete, expanded clay should be added to it. Such concrete will have a thermal conductivity of 0.66 W/(m K), and not the usual 1.5 W/(m K).

  • Next we lay the thermal insulation. For concrete floors, polystyrene foam and extruded polystyrene foam are used. In addition to these materials, others can be laid. The main thing is to choose a material with the greatest strength and density of more than 160 kg/m3;
  • A layer of vapor barrier is laid on top of this multi-layer cake and a finishing screed is poured, after which the finishing floor covering is laid.

Insulation of walls from inside a brick house

In most cases, insulation of walls inside a brick house is not carried out due to the presence of external thermal insulation. But sometimes internal insulation is still necessary. Especially when the thickness of the walls or the maximum layer of thermal insulation with outside not enough to keep warm. To insulate brick walls from the inside, mineral and stone wool, polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam, cork or “warm” plaster.

Internal insulation of the walls of a brick house is as follows:

  • clean the walls from dirt and saturate them with primer;
  • using wooden beams or metallic profile, arrange the frame and secure it to the wall. The frame posts are placed in increments of 40 cm or 60 cm;
  • if necessary, having trimmed the thermal insulation to fit the width of the opening between the posts, we lay it inside the resulting structure;
  • We cover the top with plasterboard, plaster and apply the final finish.

Important! Internal insulation of a brick house with polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam is extremely undesirable due to the toxicity and flammability of these materials.

Insulation of the attic and roof of a brick house

When it comes to the question of how best to insulate a brick house, it is impossible to ignore such parts of the house as the roof and attic. After all, it is through them that up to 40% of the total losses heat. The reason for this simple laws physicists, according to which warm air lighter than cold and therefore all the heat goes up. Therefore, in order to maintain heat in a brick house, it is so important to insulate the roof and attic.

To insulate the attic you need to do the following:

  • if you use floor beams as joists, you can build the already familiar structure of a wooden floor with insulation, but with minor changes;
  • We cover the beams themselves and the space between them with a vapor barrier;
  • then fill the space between the beams with ecowool, mineral wool or basalt wool;
  • On top, for ease of movement around the attic, we lay a subfloor made of rough boards.

Important! To maintain the performance properties of the thermal insulation of the attic and roof, it is necessary to equip high-quality ventilation of the under-roof space.

Insulation of the roof of a house is carried out as follows:

  • We lay it across the entire area of ​​the structure between the rafters and secure a vapor barrier. We let the edges of the material overlap each other and glue them with tape;
  • We place thermal insulation material in the space between the rafters. It can be polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam, mineral or basalt wool, as well as any other insulation with low thermal conductivity and low density;
  • We lay another layer of vapor barrier on top and, to maintain the insulation in place, we attach the sheathing in increments of 0.4 - 0.5 m.

Despite the large amount of work involved in creating thermal insulation for a brick house, everything is quite simple. Anyone who knows how to use a tool and has minimal experience can carry out insulation. construction work. In order for everything to be done correctly, it is necessary to adhere to SNiPs and recommendations of specialists.

Hello! My husband and I bought a house built in 1976 from white sand-lime brick, in which no one has lived for 7 years. The windows are boarded up, the roof is slate, and in the attic there is probably slag and residue (from operating the stove) as insulation. We bought it last October and started right away. major renovation rooms. They drilled a well, brought water into the house, and made a septic tank. Heating - convectors. Plastic windows were installed. The area is wet, groundwater close, 50-60 cm near the house, and 20-30 cm on the site. The house is located on a hill relative to the site. During the inspection of the house before purchasing, we took into account the fact that the house is dry, the floors are not rotten, but this is apparently due to the constant ventilation of the clogged windows. The wall pie is like this: a brick, a brick-wide void and again a brick. There is no insulation in the void. The foundation, as it turned out later, is only 20 cm high, the base is 10 cm. Between the base and the masonry is either bitumen or mastic, i.e. Waterproofing seems to be present. In some places there was a blind area, in others there was not. The walls were lined with moisture-resistant plasterboard from the inside, and on some walls they glued them directly to the walls, having previously treated them with an antibacterial solution against fungus; on other walls, first the profiles, then the GC, to align the angles at 90 degrees. When the first room was sheathed, puttied, the corners began to get damp, then no one lived in the house, only the repairman came, there was little heating and they were guilty of the fact that the house had not yet warmed up, it was January. THEN the repairman made round holes in each wall at a height of 20 cm for ventilation. And the dampness has gone, only the blowing through these holes is not bad, especially when closing the door. This room was covered by April vinyl wallpaper and moved in to live. In the summer, on cool days, we slowly turned on the convectors and heated the house. But it was still somehow humid. Now they've moved the furniture away, and the wall behind the sofa is wet, the sofa is standing next to outer wall, pulled the drawers out of the wall - and there was mold on the bottom of the drawers. How to deal with this? Tell! When installing the floors, they did the following: they removed the old wooden floors, laid down a film, poured a screed, laid 5cm foam plastic, a reinforcing mesh, again a screed, a film, a backing for the laminate, a laminate. Wet walls only in the place where the furniture is close to the wall, the closet is 2 cm away - the wall is dry, but the things in the closet are wet. In the summer, they dug up the house and poured concrete around the perimeter to reinforce the foundation, 40 cm wide and 50 cm deep. Is it possible to insulate the house from the outside with polystyrene foam, or will this not solve the moisture problem? The walls are all crooked, they thought they would somehow be leveled with polystyrene foam to match the plaster. Help with advice!

Reducing heat loss and creating comfortable conditions In a brick building, reliable thermal insulation contributes. Insulation of a house made of sand-lime brick is necessary and is due to the instability of the material to moisture. Additional thermal insulation corrects this drawback. Insulation is selected depending on the type of brick and type of masonry.

How are they insulated?

Moisture absorption and moisture permeability of structures in buildings made of sand-lime brick is eliminated by insulating them. Besides, thermal insulation keeps the house warm in winter and cool in summer. The insulation of walls depends on them. There are two types of insulation:

  • from the inside;
  • outside.

Internal insulation of structures in houses made of sand-lime brick is rarely done, since the dew point moves inward, which contributes to the formation of condensation on the walls and requires installation effective system ventilation. In addition, the slopes, floor and ceiling will need to be insulated. The insulation can be basalt slabs made of fiber and foam glass.

To insulate walls from the inside, use only environmentally friendly safe materials with low flammability to avoid the release of harmful substances into the room.


Otherwise, the house can be insulated with polystyrene foam.

The outside of sand-lime brick is insulated using the following materials:

  • mineral wool;
  • Styrofoam;
  • polyurethane;
  • expanded polystyrene.

Material calculation

To effectively insulate a house and avoid moving the dew point inward, you need to correctly calculate the thickness of the insulation. The thickness of the material depends on its thermal resistance. The average indicator of this value for walls in private and multi-storey buildings should be at least 3.5. The lower the thermal resistance of the wall, the thicker the layer of insulation material will be. The calculation is performed using the formula: R=d/k, where d is the thickness of the material, k is the thermal conductivity coefficient. Indicators k are a constant value and are given in the table.

For polyurethane foam, you need to calculate the thickness of the insulation.

For example, calculate the thickness of the polyurethane foam layer for insulating a structure made of sand-lime brick with a thickness of 0.5 m. First, determine thermal resistance walls: R = 0.5/0.7 = 0.71. This indicator is calculated for polyurethane foam: R (p) = 3.5-0.71 = 2.79. The insulation layer is found using the formula: d = R (p) x k = 2.79 × 0.02 = 0.0558 m. Thus, the polyurethane foam layer must be at least 55 mm.