Wooden houses are traditional for Russian cities and villages - they reliably serve their owners according to a lot decades and even often cross the century mark. But sooner or later the time comes when insulation wooden house outside becomes a necessary measure, since, under the influence of wind, moisture and ultraviolet rays, the wall parts dry out and become covered with cracks, through which cold easily enters the rooms. To reduce heating costs, you need to invest in wall insulation, and this will pay off in the first winter.
By carrying out the exterior work, the homeowner will solve three problems at once - make the house warm, reduce the penetration of street noise into the rooms and update the external design of the building.
But, before buying material and starting work, you need to find out which of the modern insulation materials would be better suited For wooden building, and in what sequence it is necessary to install it.
Currently the most popular materials for insulation are wooden buildings the outside is polystyrene foam in panels and different types of mineral wool, made in the form of mats or rolls. But besides them, in last years Sprayed insulating compounds, such as penoizol or ecowool, are increasingly being used, as well as thermal panels, which include not only an insulating layer, but also a decorative finish.
Expanded polystyrene is the most affordable material for insulation. He has good performance characteristics, provides the opportunity for significant savings on heating.
Expanded polystyrene is produced in panels of various thicknesses, sizes 1 × 1 and 1 × 0.5 m, with a density from 15 to 40 kg/m³. For external insulation work, medium-sized material is usually used. density - order 25kg/m³ and thickness from 50 mm. It must be remembered that the higher the density of the insulation, the lower its thermal insulation qualities, but the higher the resistance to stress. Therefore, high-density polystyrene foam is used mainly for floor insulation.
Expanded polystyrene is lightweight, as it consists of a foamed mass filled with air, so it becomes a good barrier to both cold and sound waves. Expanded polystyrene has low thermal conductivity and therefore guarantees long-term preservation of the heat accumulated in the room.
It is easy to cut and attach to the wall. It is resistant to temperature changes and ultraviolet radiation, and also almost does not absorb moisture, so it has a fairly long service life.
But, in addition to numerous advantages, polystyrene foam also has its significant disadvantages:
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Characteristic:
Foamed polystyrene foam (EPS) KNAUF Therm DACHA
Characteristic:
Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) URSA XPS N-III-G4
Xcharacteristics:
Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) RAVATHERM XPS STANDARD
Characteristic:
Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) PENOPLEX 45
Characteristic:
Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) Technoplex
The panels are attached to the surface in two ways - on the lathing or directly on the plane of the walls using glue and “umbrella” (“fungi”) fasteners. The choice of technique depends on the surface on which it will be mounted.
If the house is built from timber and its walls have smooth surfaces, you can use both options, but it’s easier to get by with adhesive.
Fixing the fastening - “fungus” 
Corner reinforcing mesh - serpyanka In this case, you can only make decorative plaster finishing - siding or there will simply be nothing to secure the lining to. But light finishing material can be attached to plastered walls, for example, plastic tiles under brick or stone.
Find out detailed information with instructions on how to from our new article.
Since installation work according to the second option (on the lathing) is carried out in the same way as when insulating with mineral wool, they will be discussed below.
Why is it worth insulating your house? Mineral wool is not a new insulation material; it is time-tested, as it has been used for decades, and during this period it has not lost any of its popularity.
One of the best insulation materials- mineral wool Mineral wool consists of numerous fibers bonded together with special compounds. Three are produced different types mineral wool, and they differ in the base material of manufacture - this stone wool, glass wool and slag wool.
Of course, they have other differences - moisture resistance, thermal conductivity, resistance to certain external influence, as well as the thickness and length of the fibers.
Slag
This material is made from blast furnace slag, which, after processing, is drawn into fibers with a length of 10 to 20 mm and a thickness of up to 10 microns.
When choosing insulation for a facade, you should immediately abandon this option, since it is hydroscopic. If moisture gets on it, it can cause mold to grow inside the material. In addition, if it is located next to metal profile, then it can happen oxidation reaction, since slags contain residual acidity.
Slag wool has a fairly high thermal conductivity for insulation, and according to this characteristic it is also not entirely suitable for insulating the walls of private housing.
Glass wool
Glass wool is made by melting glass melt, the length of the fibers of the material is from 15 to 45 mm, and the thickness is no more than 12-15 microns. This insulation is well suited for protecting walls from the cold outside - glass wool is heat-resistant and non-hygroscopic. In addition, it is light in weight and has good elasticity. Glass wool is produced in mats or rolls, and due to its elasticity, the packaging does not have excessively large volumes, since the material is easily compressed.
Glass wool made in mats is denser and stronger. It not only insulates the walls well, but also provides excellent protection from the wind, and, in addition, it is much easier to install between the sheathing bars.
The disadvantage is that when installing it, you need to carefully protect your eyes, face and hands, and respiratory organs, since thin glass fibers, if they come into contact with fabrics, can injure them or cause severe irritation. Therefore, when working with this material, it is necessary to wear a respirator, goggles, gloves and a protective suit.
Stone wool
Basalt rocks serve as raw materials for the production of stone wool. It, like other types of insulation, consists of fibers, has low thermal conductivity and high hydrophobicity, as well as the ability to withstand high temperatures, so it can be called a heat-resistant material. This type of wool is not so elastic, so its shape and volume are quite stable. Thanks to all my positive characteristics, it is excellent for insulating facades.
Basalt (stone) wool is a material with virtually no disadvantages Basalt wool is available in the form of rolls or slabs; it can be denser or softer, but for walls it is necessary to choose the most dense material.
All of the above types mineral wool have a hardness classification. This indicator needs to be clarified, since not all brands are suitable for insulating facades. For such work, you need to choose material grade PZh-175 - this is a rigid slab, or PPZh -200, which means increased rigidity of the slab.
A decorative coating is mounted on top of the sheathing - siding, block house or other materials
Mineral wool
In addition to materials in the form of mats and rolls, in Lately began to use liquid insulation, which is sprayed onto the walls. These include such as ecowool and polyurethane. When choosing such insulation materials, you should pay attention to their characteristics - they can become an excellent alternative mineral wool or rigid polystyrene foam.
A wooden house covered with polyurethane foam can be considered protected for many years from the negative processes of mold, exposure to dampness, wind, low and high temperatures.
Modern way thermal insulation - spraying polyurethane foam However, this spraying method is not often used, since it requires special equipment and good skills, and inviting a professional with special equipment is quite expensive. However, it must be taken into account that the service life of this material reaches up to fifty years, while other insulation materials become unusable after more than short term. Therefore, having spent once on insulation, you can forget about repairing the facade for many years.
After covering the walls with polyurethane foam, they acquire properties such as hydrophobicity, low thermal conductivity, and resistance to almost any external influences.
The advantages of this technology also include the following qualities:
Application of polyurethane foam
Any surface for installation of sprayed materials must be prepared. In particular, bars of the same size as the thickness of the spray layer planned to be installed are nailed onto its surface - these will become a kind of beacons. Using these guidelines, protruding frozen sections of foam material will be cut off.
When applying insulation, the device operates under high pressure- more than 100 atmospheres. The master uses a pneumatic gun to spray the material on the surface of the wall. Once on the surface, the polyurethane foams in 2-3 seconds. The setting and beginning of hardening of polyurethane foam occurs almost immediately.
To achieve the necessary heat and sound insulation effects, the coating must be sprayed in three layers.
Sprayed polyurethane is divided into materials for internal and external use. For external application, use “Ecotermix 300”, “HEATLOK SOY”
For example, the video shows the application of polyurethane to wooden walls from the inside of a house. The spraying process on the outside is practically no different.
Ecowool is an insulating and soundproofing material, also applied by spraying. The raw material for its production is recycled cellulose with the addition of borax and boric acid, which are non-toxic and non-volatile. The insulation looks like gray powder.
Another method of thermal insulation of walls is spraying ecowool The environmental cleanliness of the material is confirmed by the fact that it does not contain synthetic compounds, petroleum products, or other substances that can emit fumes hazardous to human health.
When the material is applied to the surface, it fills all holes and voids, forming a monolithic insulating layer without joints.
Additives from borax and boric acid are excellent antiseptics for insulation, preventing any forms of biological life from growing in its thickness.
An important positive quality of ecowool for wooden buildings is its heat resistance - material smolders, but does not ignite with an open flame.
Application of an insulating layer of ecowool
The wooden surface for spraying must be prepared - the sheathing is fixed to it the right size— it will regulate the thickness of the spraying. In addition, it will play the role of supporting elements so that the not completely hardened material does not slide out under its own weight.
To spray ecowool on walls, you need a special installation, the hopper of which is filled with dry material. There it is loosened and moistened, and applied to the surface through a special gun under pressure. The process itself is quite simple, but it cannot be carried out without a special apparatus.
In addition to the materials and technologies described above, to date There are many other insulation materials. Therefore, if the goal is to make the house warm and save family money on energy bills every day, then you can always find a material that meets all the criteria.
The thickness of the thermal insulation layer depends on the thickness of the wooden walls and the climatic characteristics of the region of residence.
Knowing the required thickness of insulation is important. Excessive “coat” can only damage a wooden house, while insufficient coat will not allow creating comfortable conditions accommodation. In addition, this parameter directly affects the design of the frame - it is important to know how far away from the wall its guides should be placed under the external one. Carrying out independent calculations is not so difficult, especially if you use the proposed calculation method.
The point is What total heat transfer resistance of a multilayer wall structure R should not be less than calculated for a specific climatic region of the country. For convenience, these values are plotted on a map of the Russian Federation. In this case, we are interested in the upper value (purple numbers) - for the walls.
The wall is not only the log house itself, but also interior decoration(if it exists or is planned, a layer of thermal insulation and external finishing facade (important - external finishing made according to the principle of a ventilated facade is not taken into account). For each layer, its thermal resistance index is calculated.
For example, the following diagram can be given:
1 – wooden wall (timber or log). There is a nuance - thickness log wall(right) may be slightly smaller than from timber. It is worth paying attention to this when taking measurements and further calculations.
2 – walls, if any. Often, in log houses, the walls in the premises are left unlined - so as not to lose the naturalness of the coating. But they can easily be covered with plasterboard (for painting or wallpapering), plywood, natural lining or panels made of wood composites, OSB sheets, etc.
3 - Thermal insulation layer - it is its thickness that must be determined.
The structure may have several layers. So, if the outside is provided with cladding without a ventilated gap, close to the insulation material (for example, using natural boards or lining). then it will also need to be taken into account.
The figure also shows:
4 — vapor permeable diffuse membrane.
5 – frame details (lathing).
6 – siding or lining, mounted according to the principle of a ventilated facade, with a gap (7). This is the finishing, as already mentioned, no matter what material it is made from, there is no tangible contribution to the overall thermal resistance will not contribute to the wall structure, and we do not take it into account.
So, in order to determine the required thickness of insulation, you need to know the thickness of each layer and their thermal conductivity coefficient.
Rn = Hn / λn
As a result, the calculation formula takes the following form:
Hу = (R– H1/ λ1 – H2/ λ2 – H3/ λ3 … ) × λу
Find odds for various materials It’s easy to find reference books – there’s a lot of it posted on the Internet. Measuring the thickness of existing layers is also not difficult.
How to properly insulate walls wooden house Today we will look at it in detail. After all, this is about the comfort of the room and extending the service life of the wood.
How to insulate walls in a wooden house largely depends on the structure itself and the materials used. After all, at first glance, a simple task must be performed according to certain rules, and here a lot will need to be taken into account. In the video in this article and photo you can find additional necessary information, which will help you do everything right.
Wall insulation for a wooden house is attached in several stages, each of which is important. After all, if the technology is not followed, the end result will be negative. The instructions below describe the entire progress of the work, point by point.
Before starting work, it is necessary to take measurements and calculate the material. And also, it is necessary to make calculations for further choice insulating material, taking into account, among other things, its properties (thermal conductivity). Do not forget that in such work, membranes are used (vapor insulating and waterproofing).
When calculating, it is established:
Attention: The need for work to establish the dew point is not discussed. This is an inseparable part that ultimately provides the meaning of the whole work. You need to understand that the humidity of a room depends on the location of the dew point, and humidity means rotting, smell, and, ultimately, premature decay.
Internal thermal insulation of a wooden wall can be made with many materials; they differ in their characteristics and installation methods. You just need to make the right choice.
Let's determine what are the necessary requirements for the quality and properties of insulation:
How to insulate the wooden walls of a house will largely depend on the material chosen. This is interconnected, since the method and method directly depend on the type of material.
From possible ways, used indoors – use:
| Mineral wool
| It comes in slabs and rolls of varying densities. In essence, there is almost no difference in application. Any of these materials suggests - closed type application, that is, after installation, it must be closed (finishing material in the form of slabs, sheets, boards and slats). This insulation does not burn, is non-toxic, and has low thermal conductivity. But it is afraid of moisture, which means it is necessary to use insulating membranes (insulating films). |
| Foam boards (expanded polystyrene)
| It is not recommended to use it indoors in a residential area due to possible toxic emissions (hydrogen cyanide, styrene, etc.). It is possible to use extruded polystyrene foam (see How to insulate walls with polystyrene foam), but such material is also designed for installation and subsequent closing. |
| Glass wool
| Relatively inexpensive material, a little greater thermal conductivity than mineral wool (a thicker layer will be needed). There is a special option for interior work, and with the obligatory use of films for covering. When working, it is also necessary to observe safety measures (protect the respiratory tract from fine particles, use protective equipment). After installation, it must be closed. |
| Isolet
| This material is environmentally friendly, it consists of flax fibers and wood shavings.
|
| Polyurethane foam
| It is used using special equipment; it itself does not burn, but when high temperatures, toxic substances are released.
|
The insulation for the walls of a wooden house must be airtight, otherwise heat loss cannot be avoided. After all, from the moment the building is built, during its operation, the wood dries out, the house “shrinks,” and there is a constant movement of materials. As a result, cracks and cracks form that need to be sealed to stop heat loss.
The joints between the logs (or beams) are caulked. This is done available material, or the same as what was done before (tow, jute, sealant). As a result, heat loss must be stopped.
Attention: You should not rely on the fact that the house is not relatively old (or new); cracks may appear throughout the “life” of the building. It is necessary to check the condition of the wall (plywood, “lining” will not solve the problem with cracks).
We must not forget about fire safety. To prevent possible fire, there are special compounds.
Insulation of a wooden wall from the inside is done with mandatory ventilation passages. The tree must breathe.
Let’s now look at how to insulate wooden walls step by step. After all, preparations for the work have already been carried out and all materials have been purchased. All work is done in the following order.
The design of thermal insulation of wooden walls involves the installation of sheathing.
It can be made from two materials:
| Wooden
| The wooden grill is easy to install. And attaching the material is much easier; here you can do everything with your own hands without any problems. You can adjust it without any problems, because it is cut with a simple wood saw.
|
| Metal
| The metal for these purposes is galvanized, so for external insulation it will be the best option. After all, he is not afraid of moisture. The negative part is the inconvenience of fastening. Here it will be much more difficult to adjust the sheathing to hard to reach places. And its price will be higher from wood. |
So:
Attention: In cases where ventilation strips have been nailed down, the beam is attached directly to them, ensuring the preservation of the ventilation space.
When the distance between the beams is maintained, the insulation “becomes” tight; usually, no further strengthening is required. But during work, it is noticeably more convenient when everything is held securely. Especially if work is carried out on the ceiling.
| Insulation adjustment
| The insulation must lie tightly in the sheathing and not be deformed, otherwise it will lose its properties. You attach the timber according to the width of the insulation. In non-standard places, it must be cut to the required size. |
| Laying insulation
| Laying is done on panels. First you need to try them on and only then put them on. You never need to fasten it right away. |
| Attaching the insulation
| Fastening is done using plastic parachutes. They should fit tightly into the hole. |
After the installation of insulation is completed, it is covered with a vapor barrier film. This is done for all types of insulation, with the exception of foam. You should examine the purchased insulation very carefully.
It works in one direction (steam and moisture pass there, but not back). Different manufacturers have different side markings (red stripe, rough side, mesh design).
It is undoubtedly possible to insulate a wall in an apartment with wood, but if it is clapboard, then its thickness will still not allow for decent insulation. Therefore, it is better to use other materials as insulation.
All photos from the article
Wooden houses have a number of positive qualities, but they have one significant drawback - a high heat loss coefficient. To solve this problem, it is necessary to insulate the walls following a certain technology. In this article we will look at how and how to insulate walls in a wooden house.
If a wooden house is used for year-round residence, and not just as a summer country house, then it must be insulated. Otherwise, heating costs will be high, despite the fact that comfortable temperature is unlikely to succeed, especially during the period severe frosts. In addition, insulation also provides sound insulation of rooms ().
First of all, it should be said that a wooden house can be insulated in two ways:
Each type of insulation has its own technology, which we will review below.
First of all, let's look at how to properly insulate the walls of a wooden house from the outside. It should be noted that external insulation is currently the most popular.
The only thing is that it is of high quality and does not have a negative impact on the walls of the house, you need to choose the right material. When choosing the best way to insulate the walls of a wooden house from the outside, you need to pay attention to such a property of insulation as vapor permeability.
Mineral wool, which is sold in the form of slabs, rolls and mats, has this property. Another advantage of this material is fire safety, which is no less important for a wooden house.
The only serious drawback of mineral wool is its susceptibility to moisture. As a result, when installing insulation, it is necessary to take care of high-quality waterproofing.
As for expanded polystyrene, it is not recommended to use it, since it does not allow steam and air to pass through at all, and this in turn leads to the formation of mold. In addition, polystyrene foam is not an environmentally friendly material.
Note! External insulation of a house can only be done in dry weather. It is advisable to do this procedure in the summer.
By purchasing or building a wooden Vacation home, its owners may soon be faced with the need to insulate it. There can be quite a few reasons for the low temperature inside a wooden house. Often this can be due to low-quality wood and insufficient thickness of logs. Therefore, in order to somehow correct the situation, you will need to insulate the wooden walls of the house. Work on insulating the walls of a wooden house is not particularly difficult; the main thing is to understand the technology of insulating wooden walls.
Wood, due to its structure, has a number of unique qualities and requires a special approach to operation. The main feature of a material such as wood is its ability to “breathe”. This means that wooden walls can themselves regulate the microclimate in the house. You should also remember about the natural origin of logs, which are susceptible to mold and rot. It is the naturalness of wood that imposes certain restrictions on materials and methods of insulating a wooden house.
Let's start with materials for insulating a wooden house. They must have the following characteristics:
According to these basic requirements, the following materials are most suitable for insulating wooden walls:
In addition, facing bricks can also be used to insulate a wooden house, aerated concrete blocks, siding. Of course, stone in combination with insulation will create the most effective thermal insulation, but then you will have to sacrifice the external beauty of a wooden house.
Important! But to insulate wooden walls, use extruded polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam, polyurethane foam, various sealants or polystyrene foam are strictly not recommended. These materials have extremely low vapor permeability, which in turn is fraught with the appearance of mold and fungi on wooden walls, and ultimately rot.
When preparing to insulate wooden walls, special attention should be paid to the technology for creating a thermal insulation layer. The main rule that should be followed is the following: the vapor permeability of each subsequent layer should be higher than the previous one, in the direction from interior spaces to the street. According to this simple truth, the thermal insulation of a wooden house is created, which is a multi-layer cake. The structure of such a cake for insulating walls from the outside consists of lathing and counter lathing, thermal insulation, wind and moisture insulation. Internal insulation of wooden walls also follows this rule, the only difference being that instead of windproofing, vapor barrier is used.
Important! If you just can’t decide how best to insulate wooden walls, from the inside or outside, then there is definitely one answer - you should choose insulating wooden walls from the outside. This is due to several reasons:
Of course, insulating a wooden wall from the inside is also possible, but only if it is impossible to create external insulation.
Calculation optimal thickness insulation layer is one of the most important stages in insulating any house, especially a wooden one. This task must be approached with all responsibility, since an error in the calculations will, at a minimum, entail extra financial costs for insulation, and at maximum will lead to damage to wooden walls. Therefore, if you are not familiar with formulas and calculations, it is better to contact specialists on this issue. We will look at an example of a calculation with comments and explanations, by which you can determine what layer of thermal insulation is required for your home.
To perform calculations, you will need to refer to SNiP 02/23/2003 “Thermal protection of buildings”, as well as TSN (territorial building codes). In these regulatory documents all necessary initial data for calculations and calculation methodology are provided. The calculations themselves are based on the thermal resistance of materials, which is constant and individual for each region. For example, in the Moscow region this figure is 4.15 (m2*°C)/W. It is also worth noting that when calculating, one should take into account the thermal resistance (R) of each material in the thermal insulation cake and sum them up. To perform calculations, you need the thermal conductivity of the materials used and their thickness.
The formula for calculating thermal resistance is as follows: R = P/ K.
Where P is the thickness of the material, K is the thermal conductivity coefficient of the material. For example, the outside of a wooden wall is finished facing bricks, and between them there is a layer of mineral wool. Then the total heat transfer resistance of such a wall will be equal to the sum of the resistances of each of the materials.
Based on the above formula, we will calculate the thickness of the thermal insulation layer. The formula for calculation is P=R*K. We take data on thermal conductivity from the table of thermal conductivity of materials or from the packaging of the material used, and thermal resistance from regulatory documents.
For example, for Moscow and the region, the heat transfer resistance is 4.15 (m2*°C)/W. If we insulate a 20 cm thick wooden wall with siding with mineral wool, then for wood the thermal resistance is 0.806 (m2*°C)/W, and for mineral wool 0.045 (m2*°C)/W. Accordingly, the insulation layer must have a thermal resistance R=4.15-0.806-0.045=3.299 m2*°C.
Now we take the thermal conductivity coefficient of mineral wool 0.41 W/m*K and multiply it by the thermal resistance P = 3.299*0.041=0.135 m. Similarly, you can calculate the layer thickness for any other insulation in different regions of the country.
All that remains is to calculate the insulation area and purchase all the materials necessary for this. First of all, this is the mineral wool itself, wind and moisture protection, as well as vapor barrier. In addition, you will need wooden slats with a thickness of 130x50 mm, a height equal to the height of the insulated wall, and fasteners for them. As a fastener for wooden slats You can use regular long screws or metal corners with holes for screws. The number of slats is taken on the basis that the distance between them should be 2 - 5 cm less than the width of the insulation mats. Fastening elements are purchased at the rate of 1 - 2 fastening points per 1 linear meter. We also purchase slats 50x30 mm or 50x20 mm for the counter-lattice. The total number of such slats is taken on the basis that the counter-lattice frame consists of 3 horizontal rows along the entire perimeter of the house.
As already noted, insulating wooden walls from the outside is the simplest and most affordable way insulation. You should start insulating a wooden house in a year or two. This is important, since the tree shrinks during this time, which leads to a change in the height of the building. In addition, when shrinking, new cracks will appear that will have to be caulked well.
Do-it-yourself insulation of wooden walls from the outside can be done in various ways. Let's consider the most common one - mineral wool insulation with siding trim. The work takes place in several stages:
1. We check the walls for the presence of cracks and the tight fit of the logs or beams to each other.
2. If necessary, caulk all the cracks found.
3. First we measure total length walls from edge to edge. Then we divide it into equal intervals 2 - 5 cm long, smaller than the mineral wool mat.
4. Apply markings for the sheathing on the wall.
5. Prepare the bars for the sheathing by cutting them to the required length.
6. First, we fix the bars around the perimeter of the wall. One above the foundation, one under the canopy and two at the edges.
7. In the resulting box, we place and first secure the frame around the window and doorways, and then the vertical bars of the sheathing according to the markings.
Important! If the length of one bar is not enough to cover the height of the wall, then the missing pieces must be placed in a checkerboard pattern in each subsequent rack. For example, the 1st rack consists of a long piece on the bottom and a short piece on top, the 2nd rack consists of a short block on the bottom and a long piece on top.
8. Now we take the mineral wool mats and insert them between the frame posts. Since the distance between the bars is slightly less than the width of the mat, the mineral wool will be held inside by a spacer. To reduce the number of cold bridges, mineral wool can be laid in two layers. To do this, it is enough to buy mats of smaller thickness. For example, with a thickness of the total insulation layer of 13 cm, you can use mats 50 mm or 70 mm thick. In this case, each subsequent layer is laid with an offset relative to the first.
9. On top of the insulation we lay a layer of moisture and wind insulation made from a superdiffusion membrane. We attach it to the frame using a stapler.
10. We stuff the counter lathing, thus creating a ventilation gap of 30 mm between the insulation and the finishing material.
11. Finally, the facade is finished with siding.
If you plan to finish with facing bricks, then it is better to use ecowool granules or sawdust granules as insulation. These materials, when backfilled between wooden wall and the cladding will fill all the voids, thereby creating reliable thermal insulation protection. Insulating wooden walls from the outside with mineral wool and finishing with facing bricks is similar in technology to finishing with siding. The difference lies in the ones used finishing materials and the mandatory presence of a brick foundation.
As already noted, insulating wooden walls from the inside is quite a rare occurrence. Typically, this method of insulation is chosen when it is not possible to provide external insulation. The technology for performing the work is in many ways similar to external insulation, but there are a number of differences. Let's take a closer look at the stages and features of the work when insulating wooden walls from the inside:
1. After the house has settled, we check them for the presence of cracks and carefully caulk them.
2. Drill small holes in the crowns for ventilation.
3. We mark the places for installing the counter-lattice.
4. Cut the bars for the counter-lattice and fasten them to the wall. This will create a ventilated gap between the wall and the insulation, which in turn will keep the walls from rotting from the inside.
Important! Since the insulation will not be located over the entire area of the wall, the natural bridges of cold will be the floor, interior walls and ceiling. To cover them, you will need to insulate the surface of the ceiling and floor. You can see what it looks like in the photo showing the internal insulation of wooden walls.
5. We cover the counter-lattice with a superdiffusion membrane and secure it to the bars using a stapler.
6. We mark the places for installing the main sheathing. We start from the corners and bring them to the center. At the same time, do not forget about the door and window openings. In them, the bars will frame the opening around the perimeter.
7. First, we fix the bars around the perimeter of the wall, and then install the vertical ones and in the openings. We take the distance between the bars 2 - 5 cm less than the insulation mats.
8. Take the insulation and insert it between the sheathing strips. As in the case of external insulation, we lay out the insulation in two layers, offset to each other. This will eliminate possible cold bridges.
9. We lay a vapor barrier over the insulation and secure it to the studs using a stapler.
10. After completing the installation of thermal insulation of the walls, we insulate the ceiling and floor. This will allow the wall thermal insulation to be placed behind the floor and eliminate possible cold bridges.
11. We cover the walls with plasterboard and do the finishing.
The method described above for insulating a wooden wall from the inside involves the use of mineral wool mats. In addition to it, you can also use ecowool granules or sawdust granules. But unlike external insulation, granules will have to be blown into the space between the wall and the vapor barrier film, which is somewhat inconvenient and requires special equipment.
Carrying out work on insulating wooden walls requires only skillful handling of the tool. Of course, when comparing external and internal insulation, one can note the complexity of implementation and the demanding nature of work performed inside the house. Therefore, if you do not have sufficient experience, it is better to opt for external insulation, and if it is not possible, turn to more experienced craftsmen.
Insulation of a wooden house from the inside is used much less frequently than insulation from the outside. The reasons for the unpopularity of internal insulation are the following: although insignificant, there is a reduction in the living space of the house; you can easily spoil the microclimate inside if the procedure is carried out ineptly, and this will entail unnecessary air humidity.
When insulating floors in a wooden house, it is necessary to provide air gap not less than 50 millimeters.
Nevertheless, if a decision is made, then the work must be carried out, observing the entire sequence of work and technology.
The procedure itself differs little from the thermal insulation of a wooden house from the street.
The reasons for the appearance of cold in a wooden house are considered to be:
- the appearance of gaps between the bars due to shrinkage, incorrect sealing, etc.;
- insufficient thickness of the heat insulator from the street;
- incorrect installation.
Varieties of modern materials that act as insulation
Scheme of insulation of wooden walls.
Types of insulation:
- basalt mineral wool, produced in sheets of various sizes or in rolls;
- glass wool - often serves as floor insulation;
- expanded polystyrene – universal insulation for all surfaces;
- isoplats - wood fiber or linen boards 12-25 mm thick for floors, walls and ceilings.
Isoplat – universal thermal insulation material for internal wall insulation. It is lightweight and reliable in laying slabs, which are inserted between the sheathing frame and secured with screws. Its slabs are covered with clapboard, painted or covered with wallpaper.
If polystyrene foam is chosen as insulation timber house from the inside, it is important to remember that in itself it is a self-sufficient waterproofing agent. There is no need to use other means of waterproofing walls together with expanded polystyrene. However, rodents love the material. Therefore, in order to avoid the appearance of mice in the house, it is preferable to insulate wooden walls from the inside with mineral wool or isoplate, and floorboards with glass wool or isoplate.
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The technology involves performing several operations
Insulation diagram inside a wooden house.
From inside:
- Preparing the wall surface.
- Caulking cracks.
- Formation of vapor barrier.
- Installation of sheathing on load-bearing wall surfaces.
- Installation of insulation and work on its sealing.
- Creation of a ventilation system.
- Decorating the house inside.
Preparatory procedures
Before starting to insulate the house from the inside, the first step is to superficially clean the load-bearing walls from dust. Then the wood is carefully treated with an anti-insect emulsion liquid and another anti-insect liquid, which also makes the tree more resistant to burning.
It is important to pay attention to surface wiring and those that are hidden in special casings. The wiring is completely separated from the walls.
Caulking cracks
Scheme for insulating the foundation of a wooden house.
After cleaning and fire protection from the inside, they begin to caulk the cracks. If we talk about caulking a house made of timber in general, then in the future they will perform secondary caulking. Only it will be different in time for a house made of timber, in which no one lived, and for a house in which they began to live immediately after construction. In the first case, they wait 1 year, and in the second, they caulk the cracks after two to three years. This is explained by the unequal degree of shrinkage in these two cases.
The cracks are caulked using mainly jute fiber. Using a special thin chisel, fill the cracks with jute, if any. Sometimes the cracks are quite large. Then it is advisable to use tape tow, rolled into a small roller. The gap is filled both inside and outside with jute until the fiber can no longer fit. Small hanging or protruding pieces are left as is.
Formation of a vapor barrier
After all thermal insulation work wooden surface The inside of the house, made of beams, will be located between two layers of thermal insulation (internal and external). This will lead to an inevitable increase in humidity levels, creating a greenhouse effect, as the house will stop breathing.
Humidity can be removed only by creating forced ventilation. The main nuance here is to prevent dampness of the wood and its subsequent decay.
Scheme of floor structures in a wooden house.
To prevent this, a hydro- and vapor barrier film is attached to the entire surface of the insulated wall before installing the heat insulator. The corrugated side of the film is placed against the surface of the beams. This placement of the film coating will protect the wood from moisture and allow the wood to breathe somewhat, removing excess moisture.
Installation of lathing on load-bearing wall surfaces
The lathing, the purpose of which is to hold mineral wool, is made of wooden blocks. The lathing is made from metal profiles only if they plan to cover it with plasterboard of the GKLV brand, where “B” means “moisture resistant”.
To form correct and even corners, corner posts are knocked together in advance. Measure the height of the room and cut it wooden blocks(100x50 mm section).
After this, a block of the same length is cut, but with a cross-section of 50x50 mm. The latter is attached to the edge of a 50x100 mm beam using self-tapping screws in such a way that a stand in the shape of the letter “L” is obtained. One stand is made for each corner of the room. They are fixed directly in the corner using self-tapping screws. Vertical arrangement at the same time controlled using a level.
After fixing the racks at the corners to the surface of the wall located between them, vertical bars with a cross section of 50x50 mm are mounted in increments of 50-60 cm. All bars are treated with a liquid that protects against rotting and burning.
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Installation of insulation and sealing work
Scheme for insulating a subfloor in a wooden house.
Having installed the sheathing, they begin to lay mineral wool. To begin with, the roll is unrolled and a strip of mineral wool is cut to height. The width of the strip should be 2 cm greater than the vertical gap between the bars.
Then a piece of mineral wool is placed between the bars, fixed to the wall surface using anchors with large round caps. This type of work requires the presence of a partner who will help hold or secure the cotton wool.
After filling the space between the battens with mineral wool in one layer, a second layer of insulation is attached on top of the bars. A layer of hydrofilm is attached to the cotton wool, applied with corrugation to the insulation. In addition to the function of protecting against moisture, the film will serve another purpose here - to prevent small particles of mineral wool from entering the space of a wooden house.
Creation of a ventilation system
As mentioned above, after work on the internal insulation of a log house, the humidity inside it will increase significantly.
Scheme of vapor barrier for the walls of a wooden house.
To ensure a normal microclimate, forced ventilation must be provided in all rooms.
It is unacceptable to install direct hoods outside. It is necessary to create an air duct system connected in one chain. Any axial fan of medium and even low power can act as a supercharger. IN winter period it will be enough to include homemade device ventilation for half an hour a day to create optimal humidity in the premises.
Wall decoration
After attaching the second layer of vapor barrier film, they begin to finish the walls. The film is pinned to the bars using a stapler and staples, which will make it possible to attach 30x40 mm slats to the film over the staples. Such slats are commercially available.
Having mounted such a block, sheathing is carried out on it wooden clapboard with a pronounced texture. Insulating the house and then covering it with clapboard will allow you not to lose the original appearance of the wooden interior. Instead of lining, you can install a plank horizontally, which will also be quite a good decision, since this material looks like a small beam.
