Ecology of agriculture: Grafting fruit trees and bushes - this, whatever one may say, is an operation. And you need to prepare for the operation in advance: select and prepare the “patient” - the rootstock; collect necessary tools and materials; prepare
Grafting fruit trees and shrubs is, whatever one may say, an operation. And you need to prepare for the operation in advance: select and prepare the “patient” - the rootstock; collect the necessary tools and materials; to prepare those very important “organs” that, being “sewn on”, should ennoble the modest outbred rootstock. These “important organs” are cuttings. Or, in other words, sections of annual shoots from those trees that you are planning to plant in your garden.
Everything seems to be easy and understandable: I cut off the most beautiful looking shoot from the right tree- now the cutting is ready for grafting. But no - it’s not so simple... This article will be about the “cutting” subtleties.
It would seem, what is a piece of a twig? But we know that in a tiny piece of shoot with 2-3 buds, Nature has invested the amazing ability to give birth to a new full-fledged tree, transferring to it all the properties of the mother plant.
And if we have already decided to put our hands into creating new varieties in our garden, then we must approach the preparation of this segment - cuttings - with all responsibility and respect. Let's see what Nature and many years of experience of gardeners tell us.
When and how are cuttings prepared?
As a rule, cuttings for scion and subsequent storage are harvested twice during the year: at the end of autumn (beginning of winter) and at the end of winter ( in early spring).
Many gardeners prefer autumn harvesting. It is carried out after the leaf fall has ended, when the first significant frosts have already “hit” (about -15°C). By this time, the plants had already entered a state of complete dormancy, the shoots were hardened, and at the same time a certain disinfection occurred (fungi and microbes die from frost).
Meaning autumn harvesting Cherenkov:
How to prepare cuttings in winter, how to do it, and what to pay attention to, says gardener Alexey Nikolaevich Malyshev in the next video
If it was not possible to prepare cuttings in the fall (and for novice gardeners this is a very common, understandable and explainable matter;), they can be cut now - at the end of winter, and in early spring. You don’t need much for this: pruning shears, a little garden varnish or paint and good mood from the fact that you decided and started!
In areas where winters are not too frosty and the temperature does not drop below -20°C, there should be no problems with grafting material at all. In these parts, cuttings can be taken on any winter day.
If winter was accompanied severe frosts, it will be necessary to check whether the shoots are frozen.
But for summer vaccinations cuttings are cut immediately at the time of the procedure. Here, not only storage, but also every minute of delay is undesirable.
Oh, this is also a whole story) Why is it necessary to cut cuttings several months before grafting, and then store them for so long? In order to “catch” the best time for the future scion: the buds on the shoot should sleep. And sleep until the day we need it - we ourselves will “wake up” them by the time of vaccination. Therefore, it is very important to keep the cuttings dormant until the day of grafting.
Let's look at the entire process of storing our cuttings step by step, from beginning to end.
Let's start by setting goals and objectives for ourselves.
Let's start from the last point. In order not to confuse the cut cuttings, before storing them, you need to tie the cuttings of each variety separately into bundles and attach 2 labels on non-wetting material to each bundle, signed with permanent ink.
For example, you can use wooden labels or cardboard signs, signed with marker/paste and pasted over with transparent stationery tape. Why two? More guarantee that it will remain)
Alternatively, this method: my neighbor-grandfather makes one label with the inscription of the variety, and the second with the number of the bunch. And in his notebook he notes 1 - Jonathan, 2 - Calville snowy....
And to find out how to complete all other tasks, move on to the next section - about the rules for storing cuttings.
There are many ways of long-term storage of rootstock material - on the street, in the snow, indoors (basement, cellar, unheated room, on the veranda), in the refrigerator. Each gardener chooses the one that is most accessible and convenient for him.
In those regions of Russia where snow cover remains throughout the winter, the best place for storing cuttings - in the snow, in snow piles.
You can do this: dig a small trench in a dry, non-flooded place to a depth of 30-35 cm, line it with coniferous branches, place the cuttings, cover it again with coniferous spruce branches and cover it with earth, sawdust, straw or leaves. The thickness of the snow cover over the formed storage area during the winter should be at least half a meter.
You don’t have to dig into the ground, but store the packaged cuttings directly in the snow, also under a layer of at least 50 cm. To prevent the snow from melting, sawdust is poured on it or straw is placed on it. So, under a layer of snow, the cuttings will overwinter.
If the pile is properly covered, the temperature inside it will be about 0°. If the shelter is dense, then the temperature is stable, despite frosts and thaws. It is best to choose a place to store cuttings on the north side of the house (barn) - there the snow cover will last longer.
Cuttings can be protected from rodents by wrapping them in a layer of fiberglass, plastic or metal fine mesh, or old nylon stockings/tights.
In the western and southwestern regions, where strong and prolonged thaws are common in winter, when the snow remains wet for a long time, cuttings can be stored in frozen sawdust.
This is done like this: on the north side of the house (utility rooms), the prepared bunches of cuttings must be laid on wet sawdust, covered with wet sawdust on top too - and left in the cold. After a 15-20 centimeter layer has frozen, pour dry sawdust on top of this lump in a layer of up to 40 centimeters.
This entire structure must be covered with plastic film, which will protect the workpieces from getting wet. In this state, the cuttings will remain frozen until spring. And a couple of days before grafting, the bale with cuttings can be brought into the room, where it will gradually thaw.
You can protect yourself from rodents with this storage method by moistening the sawdust without clean water, and a solution of carbolic acid or creolin (at the rate of 50-60 g per bucket of water). According to gardeners, rodents avoid such perfume)
To prevent the bark of the shoots from getting wet when the snow melts, you can place the cuttings in large plastic bottles with screw caps, in tubes, in polypropylene pipes or even simply wrap the bundles in multiple layers of cling film, leaving an air cavity.
Prepared cuttings can be stored in a cold cellar. The old grandfather's method...
There are several storage options: in burlap, in sawdust or sand, in peat, moss (sphagnum) or in another substrate, moistening it if necessary.
In this case, bunches of cuttings, cut side down, are placed in dark plastic bags and sprinkled with wet sawdust (coniferous wood is good for this). There is no need to tie the bags tightly so that the cuttings can breathe.
In this case, bunches of cuttings are placed horizontally in boxes with holes (for ventilation) and covered with damp sand.
Beginner gardeners often have a question: how to determine whether the substrate in which the cuttings are stored is sufficiently moist, or whether it is too dry or wet. There is such a simple folk test: you pick up a substrate (sand, sawdust, etc.) with your hand, squeeze it in your fist, and if moisture is felt, but no water drips, it means the humidity is “suitable”, normal.
To store cuttings in the cellar, it is advisable to maintain a temperature from - 2°C to 0...+1°C. It is better, of course, for the temperature to be constantly 0°C and a little lower, but in the cellar, in addition to cuttings, vegetables and fruits are also stored, therefore it is hardly advisable to switch the entire room to minus mode. Temperature 0...+2°С is an acceptable mode for everyone.
But for grape cuttings temperature regime storage is slightly different: optimal temperature for them it is always slightly above 0°C. For example, at a temperature of +0.4°C, chibuki are easily stored until mid-March.
It is advisable to place a thermometer in the basement to monitor and regulate the temperature in a timely manner, avoiding either overheating or overcooling of the cuttings. When the temperature rises above +3°C, the buds may begin to swell and the cuttings will become unsuitable for grafting.
Air humidity in the cellar should be at 65-70%. If you need to increase the humidity, just place a bucket of water on the floor.
Note! Experienced gardeners note that cellar storage is suitable for cuttings of pome crops and grapes, but sometimes gives poor results on stone fruit crops.
Prepared cuttings (tied and signed) should be placed in a clean plastic bag (or even two) and placed in the refrigerator. If it is possible to set the temperature, it is good to set it no higher than +2°C. This storage option is suitable if there are few cuttings.
Everyone's refrigerator is different, so everyone will have their own storage location: for some, right under the freezer, for others, in the compartment for vegetables and herbs. The main thing to remember is that a refrigerator and a freezer are two different things. And the point of storing cuttings is not to freeze them, but to keep them chilled!
Some gardeners advise putting a damp, clean cloth in a bag, or even wrapping the cuttings in a damp cloth or paper first, and then packing them in bags. This will help maintain the necessary air humidity.
Another option is to wax the cuttings completely or only from the ends, then wrap them in a damp cloth or paper and place them in a plastic bag, which is tied loosely, leaving a small hole for air exchange.
As a rule, in the lower compartment of the refrigerator the temperature is around +2...+ 4 °C. Therefore, it is possible to store cuttings in such conditions until approximately the end of February. But in March, the buds are already starting to grow, especially in stone fruits (plum, cherry plum, apricot and others), so it is difficult to store them in the refrigerator.
Gardeners are resourceful and creative people. They manage to keep the prepared cuttings hanging on the balcony (veranda), outside the window of a city apartment in a net, and hanging on a tree. Of course, the cuttings are stored insulated and wrapped in a clean bag.
And some gardeners, to be extra sure, store especially valuable cuttings in large potatoes. They simply stick the cuttings into it, place it in a bag - and off to the cold!
This is how ingenuity and cold calculation (“cold calculation” is just twice the topic!) can significantly expand the boundaries of our gardening capabilities))
What can happen to the grafting material during long months of storage? Anything: the cuttings can become moldy, dry out, get wet or dry out. In any of these cases they will become unsuitable for vaccination.
Occurs when exposed to low temperatures. Frozen cuttings are no longer suitable for grafting. To prevent this from happening, you need to ensure that the cuttings are under a sufficient layer of snow (sawdust, leaves, soil, etc.). Caution: cuttings should not be stored in freezer!
Frozen cuttings can dry out. Or shoots infected with fungal infections (moniliosis, for example). During storage, such cuttings die and naturally dry out. To prevent this from happening, you need to store healthy material.
Can happen when due to excess humidity and the temperature is not low enough, the buds or cambium begin to leave the dormant state. At this moment, they are practically defenseless against fungi and bacteria, which very quickly infect tissues. To prevent this from happening, you need to maintain the temperature regime and avoid excessive humidity.
It occurs if condensation forms on the cuttings - it provokes the development of mold on the bark. To prevent this, condensation must be avoided. When the first signs of mold appear, it is necessary to remove the condensation and bathe the cuttings in an aqueous solution of alcoholic iodine (1%) or in a 3% solution of copper sulfate.
If the cuttings are in water for a long time, they die from lack of oxygen.
This can happen if the ambient temperature rises to +4...+6°C. Unfortunately, this indicates failure - sprouted cuttings are no longer suitable for grafting.
In any case, if the cuttings are stored indoors - a cellar or refrigerator, on a veranda or balcony - their condition must be checked periodically (at least once every 3-4 weeks). If necessary, moisten the fabric, sand or sawdust, remove mold and disinfect, adjust the temperature, and so on.
Grafting of fruit trees usually begins in April (May), when active sap flow begins in the rootstock. For successful fusion of cuttings with the rootstock, it is very important that the scion is still at rest, and the rootstock is already in an active state.
Therefore, the cuttings are kept in cold storage until the last moment! And they need to be taken out of such shelter no earlier than a day before vaccination. The exception will be those cuttings that were stored in frozen sawdust - they “receive into the light of day” as a frozen lump in two or even three days, because natural thawing takes a long time.
For reference. First, stone fruit crops (plum, cherry, sweet cherry) are grafted, and only then pome crops (apple trees, pears). This is due to the fact that in stone fruit crops, sap flow begins earlier.
Frostbite test
To determine whether the cuttings are frozen, you need to conduct a test: make fresh cuts at the bottom and place them in a container with clean water. If the cuttings are healthy and well preserved, the water will remain clear, but if they are frozen, the water will turn yellowish-brown. published
The cutting of any fruit tree is not just a piece of a twig, but a real shoot with several buds, which has a truly amazing ability to grow into a full-fledged tree. But in order to achieve such a result, you should know certain nuances associated with the selection and correct preparation of cuttings. Below is a detailed description of how to correctly select and prepare apple tree cuttings for grafting in the spring (detailed photo and video instructions are attached).
Because the we're talking about When it comes to creating a full-fledged tree, it is necessary to approach the issue of choosing a suitable cutting very seriously. It is important to observe one simple condition: the mother tree must be productive and consistently bear fruit. It is worth choosing annual shoots (it is important that they ripen well) from that part of the crown that is located on outside and is actively warmed by the sun's rays.
Advice. Shoots located on the south side of the tree take root better. Such cuttings are distinguished by the presence of small internodes and well-developed eyes in the leaf axils.
Try to cut cuttings from the middle tier of the crown, since the upper ones will be too thick and massive for grafting, and the lower ones will not give the required growth.
Regarding the timing of the correct preparation of apple tree cuttings for spring scion, the opinions of gardeners differ. Thus, some believe that the preparatory process is carried out at the beginning of winter, and necessarily before mid-January: shoots cut later are unlikely to take root well.
Other gardeners believe that optimal period For cutting cuttings from an apple tree, you can safely consider the end of winter and even the beginning of spring. It is important to take into account weather: So, the air temperature should not be below -10 degrees. This - optimal conditions for hardening annual shoots.
You can also prepare young shoots almost before grafting, but the plant should not yet have blossoming buds. According to reviews from experienced gardeners, best result achieved by using cuttings prepared at the beginning of winter.
A cutting that is optimally suitable for harvesting as a scion should have the following external characteristics:
If you are new to gardening and want to try grafting a new plant from an apple cutting, it would be a good idea to take note of a few useful tips from experienced gardeners:
Some gardeners do not understand: why is it necessary to make cuttings so early and store them for a long time? And this is necessary so that the buds on the shoots left in a state of “rest” can be awakened at the right time. That is why you should know certain subtleties in order for the cuttings to remain viable by the time of spring grafting.
We bring to your attention the simplest and at the same time effective ways storing cuttings until spring:
Advice. To prevent rodents from getting into your “good”, wrap the twigs metal mesh, nylon stockings or plastic mesh.
Well, and finally, one piece of advice that should be taken into account by those who plan to store cuttings in a moist substrate. Beginner gardeners often have questions regarding optimal indicator humidity of the substrate for storing cuttings. Checking this is quite simple: you need to pick up a little substrate with your hand and squeeze it in your fist. If you feel moisture, but water does not flow, then the humidity is optimal.
These are all the subtleties that you should know in order to plant healthy and fully viable apple tree cuttings in the spring. Good luck!
At this time, the trees are still dormant, the buds are dormant, and the wood contains enough plastic substances to remain in a viable state until grafting. The grafting operation is carried out at a time when sap flow in the tree has already begun; at this time, buds are already beginning to bloom on the grafted trees. The rootstock cutting attached to them immediately receives nutrients, and the growth process is quite fast. However, if the cutting is taken from a tree on which the buds have already blossomed, then the likelihood of it drying out increases significantly, even if it was immediately grafted into a new place.
Strong annual branches with mature wood are used as grafting material. To take cuttings, choose branches located on the well-lit side of the tree. Do not harvest fatty shoots (“tops”); they will take root well, but the time before such a scion begins to bear fruit will greatly increase. In apple and pear trees, the fatty shoot, as a rule, has a greenish bark color and long distances between the buds.
The buds themselves are much smaller, less pubescent and more tightly pressed to the stem than those of the branches of ordinary annual growth, suitable as grafting material.
However, more often there is a desire to preserve a variety from an old tree that is reaching its end. In such trees, the annual growth is small, the length of annual shoots does not exceed 10-15 cm. In this case, they are also suitable, just prepare more of them, so that you have plenty to choose from when the time comes for grafting. Since during pruning there are enough branches suitable for harvesting, take at least 10-15 cuttings of each variety. This quantity will allow you not to be afraid that you will not have enough cuttings for your grafting or losses during storage. In addition, the more varied the thickness of the cuttings, the easier it will be for you to match them to the thickness of the rootstock.
During harvesting, pay attention to how the cutting itself and the wood look when cut. The cuttings must have intact bark: no cracks or wounds. In addition, there should be no brown core on the cut. Both of these signs (bark damage and brown pith) indicate frost damage to the cutting. Such cuttings are not suitable for grafting.
Then the bunches are put into dark plastic bags and put into the basement. Before placing in a plastic bag, the bundles can be wrapped in a damp cloth.
The temperature in the basement should be close to zero. However, not everyone has such a room, and not every gardener needs such a number of cuttings. In this situation a small amount of cuttings can be stored in the refrigerator in the fruit compartment. And if there are a lot of cuttings prepared, you will have to bury them in the snow (in a snow pile).
To do this, make a snowdrift about a meter high on the north side of the house or barn. Dig a hole in it almost to the ground, place bunches of cuttings there, and cover with snow. To prevent the snow from melting, place a layer of straw or sawdust on top of the entire surface of the snowdrift for as long as possible. Thus, you can save the cuttings until the onset of stable above-zero temperatures, when grafting can begin.
I will talk about how to ensure that the vaccination is successful and the survival rate is the maximum percentage, in the following articles.
1016 03/14/2019 8 min.Grafting is a very popular technique among gardeners. It allows you to produce hybrid and dwarf varieties, improve the frost resistance of cold-sensitive apple trees, revive old trees, and simply save space in the garden. Grafting is quite simple; the main difficulty is preparing the cuttings correctly.
A cutting is a one-year young sprout - from 3 to 10 years old, of a well-fruiting apple tree. For grafting, shoots are cut 30–40 cm long and at least 7 mm in diameter. The sprout retains from 3 to 5 developed buds. The cuttings take root well on the mother plant. The method involves creating tight contact between the cambium of the sprout and the main tree. Other than that favorable conditions– warm, stable weather, sufficient watering and fertilizing, the cuttings will certainly take root and will be ready to bear fruit the next year.
The scion chosen is not the most beautiful branch, but one that is suitable according to certain parameters: number of buds, age, condition of the bark. This is especially important if it is necessary or for a tree of not only a different variety, but also a different type: pear, cherry, viburnum, hawthorn.
Grafting onto trees of other species is quite viable, but not as durable as when the rootstock is an apple tree.
It is preferable to harvest the scion in the fall. Then it is possible to avoid too early swelling of the buds and the appearance of foliage on the shoot. The procedure is performed at the end of November or at the beginning of December, when sap flow stops.
Cuttings can be cut at temperatures down to -10 C, but only until the soil freezes. Experienced gardeners claim that light frosts harden the wood and the cutting takes root better.
Cuttings are taken from both young and old apple trees if, for example, they want to preserve the variety of the old tree. The selection principles are the same:
Read about apple tree budding.
Cuttings are cut with a reserve of at least 15 pieces for one tree, since not all of them will survive the winter.
Be sure to use garden varnish after harvesting.
Cuts on the shoots are also treated with garden varnish. This is done so that during storage the wood does not absorb moisture and the buds do not begin to swell prematurely.
Then the blanks are collected into bundles - about 15 pieces each.
Be sure to sign.
The material must be stored so as not to “wake up” ahead of time. To do this, cuttings are cut only after sap flow has stopped, when the buds are already dormant. Then they save it in conditions where awakening is impossible, but at the same time the material retains its viability.
The storage purposes are as follows:
There are quite a few methods for saving scion. The gardener simply chooses the best one for himself.
In areas where it snows all winter, the best storage option is in a snowdrift. And they do it different ways.
The thickness of the snow above the pile should reach 50 cm, otherwise the shoots will freeze.
The place for the collar is chosen on the north side of the barn or building. If all conditions are met, then the temperature here remains at 0 C throughout the winter.
The entire resulting block is covered with plastic film to prevent moisture from entering during thaws.
This way the cuttings are stored until spring.
3–4 days before grafting, the cuttings are transferred to warm room so that the sawdust thaws and the workpieces are ready for engraftment.
If there are a lot of mice in the area, then the sprouts are moistened not with water, but with a solution of creolin or carbolic acid - 50–60 g per 10 liters of water. The smell of the solution repels rodents.
It is perfect for storing scions, but only if it is not wet and does not flood during the thaw. Cuttings are saved in any way.
Instead of sand, the cuttings in the box can be covered with moss or peat, also slightly damp.
You can learn about the preparation and storage of grape cuttings in the fall from.
Both sand, sawdust, and peat should retain some moisture during the winter. It is not advisable to spray sand and sawdust: it is better to place a bucket of water next to the box. If the humidity in the cellar is constantly maintained at 65–70%, then additional measures will not be needed.
The temperature should be kept at -2–+3 C. If the temperature is too low, the workpieces may freeze. At temperatures above +3 C, sap flow begins and the buds swell, and such sprouts are no longer suitable for grafting.
The most uncomplicated and everyone available method– storage in the refrigerator. To do this, the temperature in the compartment must be maintained at no more than +2 C. Some people prefer to place the branches under the freezer, others in the vegetable section - the main thing is to maintain a suitable temperature.
You cannot store material in the freezer. The temperature in this compartment is too low.
You can also save grafting material in unconventional ways.
To prevent the material from becoming unusable, you need to strictly adhere to the temperature and humidity conditions.
The cellar, if it is used for protection, should at least be equipped with a thermometer.
Under other storage conditions, it is necessary to assess the condition visually.
He will tell you about the fungus on the apple tree.
It’s even worse when condensation forms on the branches inside the bag. It provokes the appearance of mold on the bark. If the latter is detected, you need to dry the sprouts, rinse them in a 1% iodine solution or 3% copper sulfate solution. After drying, the cuttings are again placed in sawdust or bags.
About application iron sulfate in spring gardening for apple trees read in.
Before grafting, the material is checked. It's quite easy to do this:
If there is a suspicion that the cuttings are frozen, check it this way: refresh the cut and lower the sprout into water. If the water has not changed color, everything is fine. If it turns yellow or brown, the cutting is frozen and should be thrown away.
Preparing material for grafting does not require effort. However, for good graft survival, it is worth following the recommendations:
Read about grafting apple trees into clefts.
This video will tell you in detail about the growing season.
