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» Choosing a gate for your dacha (24 photos). Do-it-yourself swing gates, drawings, videos, step-by-step instructions How to install gates in your dacha correctly

Choosing a gate for your dacha (24 photos). Do-it-yourself swing gates, drawings, videos, step-by-step instructions How to install gates in your dacha correctly

Getting to know country house starts from the entrance gate. Therefore this element personal plot must be beautiful and respectable. However, the main purpose of the gate is to provide convenient access for cars to the house and protect the territory from entry by strangers. How to combine these appointments? Let's consider what materials strong gates can be made from, and what types of structures are acceptable for a summer cottage. In addition, we will describe the sequence of creating the most popular entrance systems - swing and sliding.

Basic requirements for gates on a summer cottage

Gates for a summer residence are an integral element of arranging a suburban area. In most cases, gates are made of the same material as the fence. A number of requirements are put forward for the front part of the yard:

  • possibility of unhindered check-in/check-out - optimal width gate - 2.2-2.4 m, height - 1.6-1.8 m;
  • if people visit the dacha plot periodically trucks, then the gate must be made wider - 3.2-4 m;
  • Gate leaves must open effectively and have locking elements;
  • design compliance general style plot and facade of the house.

Naturally, important requirements are the strength and resistance of the manufacturing material to natural influences.

Selecting material for making gates

Typically, metal, wooden or combined gates are installed at the dacha.

For the manufacture of metal gates use sheet metal, corrugated sheets, forged elements, profile pipes, corners and fittings. Structures made from corrugated sheets have gained particular popularity among summer residents due to a number of advantages:

  • affordable cost of building materials;
  • quick construction of the structure - you can install the gate yourself;
  • long period of operation;
  • provided that the protective layer is intact, the corrugated sheet does not corrode;
  • attractive appearance - the material is available in different colors, interesting option- corrugated sheeting with imitation wood or masonry.

The disadvantages of metal country gates include:

  • insufficient strength if corrugated sheets or sheet metal of small thickness are used;
  • under mechanical impact the gate may become deformed;
  • Small scratches provoke corrosion.

Wooden gates are less common today than before - when similar designs were used almost everywhere. Used for the manufacture of gates and wickets budget material(boards and beams) and elite lumber from expensive wood species.

You can assemble a simple gate with your own hands, having dry pieces of wood and a standard set of tools on hand. The work of creating complex structures It is better to entrust it to cabinetmakers who have special equipment for wood processing in their arsenal.

TO combined gates These include those models in the production of which several materials were used simultaneously. In this case, the ratio of raw materials is taken in approximately the same proportions. Combined fencing is considered to be:


Country gate designs: features of manufacturing and operation

Depending on the type of structure, there are two main types of gates:

  • swing;
  • recoil.

Swing gates - classics of the genre. Their popularity is explained by the simplicity of the design - a pair of vertical supports are equipped with hinges for attaching the sashes. The disadvantage of gates is associated with the difficulties of operation in winter time- snow within the opening/closing radius of the doors will have to be cleared regularly.

Important! The gate frame must have a large margin of rigidity and strength, since during opening it is subject to serious loads that can knock down the structure

To create a gate frame, a steel pipe or profile is usually used, fixing individual elements- bolts or welding. Frame cladding - galvanized steel sheets, corrugated boards, boards treated with an antiseptic, or metal grating. It is not recommended to use heavy facing materials - this increases the load on the supports and hinges. When closed, the gate is locked using a powerful bolt or padlock. You can install a latch at the bottom to fix the gate in the selected position.

Post supports can become loose over time, causing the gate to jam. To avoid this, at the installation stage it is important to lay a deep foundation under the supports.

Country houses sliding gates There are two types: rail and console. Such structures were originally used in industrial facilities, and today they are often installed in local areas.

Positive features of sliding gates:

  1. Space saving. Sliding or sliding gates can be installed anywhere on the site. The gate leaves are moved parallel to the plane of the fence using a mechanism.
  2. Ease of use. It is possible to equip the structure with automation - the approaching driver just needs to press a button on the control panel and the gate will open.
  3. Even during snowfall, the “retractable” mechanism functions perfectly, since the gate leaves do not touch the ground.
  4. Attractive appearance.
  5. Resistance to external factors and durability.

The panel of sliding or sliding sashes is made of different materials. However, as practice shows, best option In terms of price-quality ratio, it is profiled sheet metal.

Important! You can make the gate leaf yourself, but the mechanism must be purchased from a trusted manufacturer

A separate group can be identified gate with built-in wicket. Such models are constructed using the same technology as swing gates made of wood or corrugated sheets. In the sash where the gate is planned to be placed, a frame of 4 vertical profiles is welded (2 external ones define the frame boundaries, 2 internal ones define the entrance door opening).

Do-it-yourself swing country gates made of corrugated sheets

Site selection and project development

The first question that needs to be resolved is where to place the entrance gate to the summer cottage. If the house on the site is located in the center of the yard, then the gate is installed opposite the facade of the living space across the yard. For dachas located near the roadway, entry zone It is advisable to plan it away from the house to reduce exhaust gases entering the yard.

If suburban area is located in a natural area with limited traffic, then the gate can be placed close to the facade.

To develop a drawing, you should decide on the dimensions of the gate - measure the width/height of the gate. When measuring the height, it is important to take into account the technical clearance at the bottom of the gate - the size of the gap depends on the type of coverage of the access roads. When laying tiles, asphalt or concrete, 5-7 cm is enough, for unstabilized soil with uneven surface You need to leave a gap of about 10 cm.

Advice. When calculating the drawing, you need to compare the dimensions of the frame and facing material. It is desirable that they coincide - then the installation process will be easier and it will be possible to avoid connecting seams with front side valves

The above drawing can be used as a basis for calculating the amount of material, parameters and mounting location of profile pipes.

Tools and materials

Mandatory and auxiliary tools for making a frame, arranging racks and cladding gates:

  • grinder - for cutting and grinding metal workpieces;
  • grinding and cutting discs;
  • welding machine and electrodes;
  • building level, tape measure, hammer, corner;
  • trowel, shovel;
  • spray gun or brushes for painting gates and posts;
  • rivet and rivets.

Sample list of materials:

  • profile pipe for the frame - optimally - 60*40*1.5, but 40*20*1.5 is also suitable;
  • the pipe for making racks depends on the expected weight of the gate: up to 150 kg - 80*80*4, 150-300 kg - 10*100*5, more than 300 kg - 140*104*5;
  • hinges (adjustable or non-adjustable);
  • mechanical/electromechanical locks;
  • dye;
  • cladding - corrugated sheets.

Installation sequence

The first stage is the installation of support pillars. Metal supports are concreted to a depth of soil freezing - at least 1 meter. The order of installation of pillars:

  1. Support pipes with a cross-section of 100*100 mm should be cleaned of rust, degreased, primed and painted.
  2. Dig two holes along the edges of the proposed gate to a depth of 1-1.5 m.
  3. Place sand and crushed stone at the bottom of the holes - the layer thickness is 20-30 cm.
  4. Place the support in the hole and reinforce it with reinforcement. Use a building level to check the verticality of the post.
  5. Fill the hole with concrete containing: crushed stone small fraction, rack sand, cement.

Leave the foundation to harden for a week. If the door leaf is heavy with forging elements, then the concrete must “stand” for at least two weeks. At this time, you can begin making the sashes.

Sequence of creating a gate frame:


The final stage is covering with corrugated sheeting:

  1. Place the corrugated sheet on top of the frame and secure it with steel rivets or self-tapping screws.
  2. Fastening profiled metal in the areas of the “wave” depression.
  3. Calculation of the number of self-tapping screws is about 10 pieces per 1 sq.m.

The finished sashes of the structure are hung on hinges welded to the support posts.

DIY sliding country gates

For self-made sliding gates need to purchase components sliding system. Set includes:

  1. Guide beam. The length of the profile is equal to 1.6*the width of the opening for the gate.
  2. Roller carriages - 2 pcs.
  3. A board that keeps the structure from swinging while moving.
  4. Lower/upper limiter - reduces swinging of the gate during wind.
  5. End roller - ensures silent operation of the system and reduces the severity of the sash when open.

If the gate control is planned to be automatic, then you will need an automation kit consisting of the following elements:

  1. The gearbox is the “brain” of the working mechanism.
  2. Toothed rack (optimally galvanized). The size of the element depends on the length of the gate. For an opening with a width of 4.5 m, a batten with a thickness of at least 8 mm is suitable.
  3. Photocells.
  4. Signal lamp.
  5. Mounting base.
  6. Remote Control.

Start of work - drawing up a drawing indicating all dimensions. The width of the opening determines the location for the gate to be rolled back.

Important! The length of the gate is equal to the sum of the width of the opening and the rollback location. This value is calculated as the product of the gate opening and a coefficient of 1.6. The height of the sliding system is taken 10 cm less than the height of the fence

The main stages in the production of sliding country gates from corrugated sheets:


The last step is installation automatic system. Before installation, be sure to read technical documentation and instructions for the electric drive. Since different models differ from each other and have installation nuances.

Country gate design: original photo ideas

Before you start installing gates for your dacha, you first need to decide on the material for them and appearance, which would harmonize well with the exterior (facade) of the house and landscape design personal plot.

In addition, you still need to decide on the size of the gate and the method of opening it, since, unlike a gate, gates differ in the opening principle.

And if so, you need to know all this and understand “what’s for what and how.” Standard size the gate is 2.6 m, but can be increased to 3.4 m for the passage of cargo and specialized vehicles.

The methods of opening gates largely depend on the preferences of the owner of the site, however, for example, unlike swing gates, sliding and lifting gates do not require clearing the nearby area from snow in winter period to open them. As for the materials for making gates, the choice is small: metal and/or wood.

The metal frame is sheathed either with wood or metal corrugated sheets. There are also gates with and without a wicket. Let's take a closer look at the features of their production and installation.

So, let’s highlight the main types of gates according to the method of opening them:

Swing;

Gates for a summer residence with a wicket;

Recoil;

Lifting.

All these types of gates are installed after being built with posts for their installation.

Swing gates for cottages

Despite the difficulties associated with operating swing gates in winter, they are the most popular because they do not contain any electromechanical components, are easy to manufacture, and their operation and repair are not complicated by the presence of complex mechanisms. Thus, the easiest way to make a garden gate with your own hands is with a swing opening method.

The first thing to do is metal carcass, which consists of two halves. A rolled metal frame is laid on a flat surface, which is a rectangle (profile) measuring 40x20. The profile is cut with a grinder with a metal circle according to the dimensions of the future frame and they are laid end to end, forming a frame frame, which should consist of two vertical profiles and three horizontal (lower, middle, upper) and then begin to connect them by welding.

In this case, it is very important to firmly fix the profiles in the initial position in compliance with the geometry of the frame, because if this is not done, then during welding the metal will “unscrew” and the geometry of the frame will be disrupted.

In order to give rigidity to the frame so that it does not “play”, elements from the same profile are used, which are called braces. The braces are welded diagonally across the entire frame or to the floor of the frame or in the corners for a length of up to 40 cm. Lastly, hinges, latches and latches are welded.

Welding areas are cleaned with a grinder and a metal grinding wheel, and then the entire frame is cleaned of rust, if any, and painted. oil paint or alkyd enamel in two layers.

While the paint is drying, you can install the posts if they are not already installed. These can be products made of stone, brick or metal pipe, or a profile measuring 80x80. Stone and brick pillars installation is not at all difficult for those who know how to do it themselves, but when installing metal racks there are some nuances. They are fastened into one solid frame before concreting.

The lower horizontal profile should be located at a distance of no more than a meter above the ground, the middle one is located at ground level and parts for fixing the bolts are welded to it, and the upper one connects the risers together from above.

The trench itself is dug to a depth of 1800mm and a width of 500mm. A 300mm thick sand cushion is laid at the very bottom, 500mm of concrete is poured, the frame is laid, secured with supports on both sides and poured with concrete to the ground level. After the concrete has set (three days), the hinges and other additional parts are welded, and the entire structure is processed, like a gate frame. Then the frame is mounted and sheathed with metal or wood.

The sheathing occurs in one direction, from left to right if you are right-handed and from right to left if you are left-handed.

To install metal corrugated sheets, self-tapping screws with gaskets under a foam rubber cap are used to seal the installation site of the screws and prevent metal corrosion.

For wood panels screws for metal have been created in a different configuration, or there are bolted connections.

Gates for a summer residence with a wicket

They are easier to install, since they do not require an additional separate post for the gate; the gate is built into them, therefore, these gates are preferable if there is a fence. Gates with a wicket are made from a metal frame covered with corrugated board or wood, similar to swing gates without a wicket, with the exception of an additional set of profiles.

In the half of the gate in which the gate is planned, a frame is welded from four vertical profiles: two external ones, defining the boundaries of the frame, and two internal ones, forming the opening for the gate.

The middle horizontal profile consists of several fragments that connect the internal to the external and internal vertical profiles to each other.

Passing at the height at which the gate ends, the middle horizontal profile defines the internal opening for it. The braces are welded at the corners to the external vertical profiles.

When assembling profiles for the gate opening, it is necessary to take into account that the opening must be diagonally 2 cm larger than the outer boundaries of the gate frame. This is a tolerance for all kinds of metal deformations and shrinkage.

The gate is made from the same 40x20 profiles and a diagonal brace, but may not have an average horizontal profile. Painting and plating are done in the same way.

Gates for cottages, sliding and lifting

The frame is made similarly from 40x20 profiles, but a guide is welded to the lower profile, which will ride along the roller. The lower rollers, on which the roller itself rides, are welded to the channel, which is located in the foundation under the gate, and the upper ones (supporting the gate) are welded to the pillars.

Catchers are also welded to the pillars - elements that absorb the moment of collision in the extreme open or closed position gate If the gate will not be opened manually, but with the help of an electric motor, a toothed metal strip is welded to the lower profile of the frame, along which a gear rotates, which is located on the axis of the electric motor.

Thus, the gate rolls to the side and returns to the closed position by reverse rotation of the electric motor axis.

Often overhead gates installed in garages of a new type, because they save space and in this case are more practical. Lifting is carried out by a special electric lifting mechanism, which is located above the level of the gate, and, by pulling the cables that are attached to the lower back edge of the gate on the sides, lifts the gate itself.

The disadvantage of this type of gate is that if the electricity goes out, manually pulling the cable to raise the gate will be very difficult and time-consuming. Also, the mechanism itself is expensive and difficult to operate and repair, compared to other types of gates.

1. Gate trim:

The cladding can be made of wood, metal, polycarbonate, or a forged structure.

To ensure that the choice of material is correct, the following nuances should be taken into account:

  • Gates made of corrugated sheets and others metal structures have a number of advantages, they are light and affordable, the material is available in a wide range of structures and shades, but in terms of aesthetic characteristics they will not suit everyone;
  • Forged gates are chic, but they will cost a pretty penny, although they will undoubtedly last you the longest.

On summer cottages more often you can see the swing doors wooden gate . To extend their service life, the wood is pre-treated with special compounds and placed in a metal frame. I propose to consider the option of making swing gates from lightweight material– profiled sheet.

2. Material options for the frame:

  • Metal, welded construction- the most reliable and durable option, perfect for heavy cladding materials, not automatic gates I advise you to choose it.
  • Metal frame with bolts- easier to build, unlike the previous one, but be prepared that this design is not as durable.
  • Aluminum and other light metals- can be used Only for gates with light cladding! this is the very case when the use of such material can ONLY be caused by the choice of a professional (usually for automatic gates).
  • Wooden gate frame- a classic, morally outdated, but a classic. Everything is simple here: if you want it yourself and quickly - wood, no - metal. It won't last long, you'll suffer!

3. Posts for swing gates:

  • Wooden pillars - easy to use and inexpensive material. The disadvantage is that they are not durable, and heavy metal gates cannot be hung on them properly :)
  • Brick pillars- about 10 years ago they were considered an indicator of status and were used where they were not needed. They look beautiful, but concrete ones are in no way inferior to them, and are even superior in durability. They can hold quite a lot of weight, I advise you to build brick pillars inside around metal ones (cover them with bricks), welding hinges and other structural elements to the metal core pillar.
  • Asbestos pillars- easy to use, ready product(sometimes they are mistaken for concrete), better than wooden ones, but in my opinion significantly inferior to metal ones.
  • Concrete pillars- reinforced concrete, massive, noble and, unlike brick, easy to cosmetic repairs. If you want the pillars to be not only structural element, but also as part of the fence design, I advise you to go with this option.
  • Metal poles- For light structures they are simply installed in the ground, but even for not the heaviest gates they should be used concrete foundation at least 20 centimeters away from the pillar and at least a meter deep (ideally one and a half, the depth of soil freezing in our climate zone), so that if the soil around the pillar gets wet, it will not lead.
  • Metal poles on a concrete or brick base- a fairly common hybrid ( strip foundation protruding 30 centimeters or more above the ground and pillars protruding from it), both aesthetically pleasing and economical and top part fences and gates can be quite "easy".

The simplest country gates consist of two leaves, which can be made from various materials. Often the material for cladding is corrugated board or wood. If desired, a wicket is created at the gate. It can also be placed in a separate opening. To make a garden gate with your own hands, you should know what material is best suited for such products.

How to choose gate material

Metal and wooden gates. Combined designs are becoming increasingly popular. For the manufacture of metal gates, profile pipes, fittings and angles are used. The most popular are structures made from corrugated sheets, as they have the following advantages:

  • reasonable cost of cladding material;
  • gate creation speed;
  • ease of creating sashes from corrugated sheets;
  • long service life of the gate;
  • no corrosion on the material;
  • beauty of the material.

It is worth remembering that there should be no defects on the corrugated sheeting, as this can cause rust to appear on the material. The disadvantages of the described material include:

  1. Insufficient strength. Gates made of thin corrugated sheets can be damaged if strong wind or in other cases when a large load is applied to the canvas.
  2. Possibility of corrosion. In order for the facing material to remain intact, it is necessary to ensure that its coating is not damaged.

Wooden gates are less popular, as they are being replaced by more reliable and cheaper designs. To make gates with your own hands, you can use both cheap boards and lumber from expensive wood species.

Simple swing gates (as in the photo) can be assembled with my own hands, having standard tools. If a complex and beautiful design, you should entrust the work to professionals. This is due to the fact that many works in this case must be performed using special equipment for wood processing.

TO combined products These include structures in the creation of which several materials were used. The following types of such products are often created:


If you want to make a gate with your own hands, you should choose the third option. You can also use corrugated sheeting instead of mesh.

Features of the manufacture and operation of different types of gates

Depending on the type of construction, gates can be divided into two types:

  • swing;
  • recoil .

Swing ones are the most popular, as they can be made independently. They consist of two doors, which are secured to supports using hinges. It is worth remembering that they have some disadvantages:

  • difficulty opening in winter, when accumulations accumulate around the doors a large number of snow;
  • large gate opening radius;
  • need for additional space.

It should be remembered that the frame of swing gates must have a large margin of safety, since over time such structures begin to sag. If the frame is not rigid enough, the canvas will quickly warp.

When creating the frame of swing structures, it is used steel pipe or metal profile. Structural elements are fixed using bolts or welding. The frame is covered with galvanized steel, corrugated sheeting or wood, onto which an antiseptic is applied in advance. You should not use heavy materials, as they greatly increase the load on the hinges.

In the closed position, swing gates are secured with a bolt or padlock. To more securely fix the sashes in the lower part, it is necessary to install a latch.

Before you make a gate at your dacha, you should think about the fact that the pillars may become loose over time due to the constant load exerted on them. This is why it is important to create a reliable foundation for the pillars.

Sliding doors are divided into cantilever and rail. They have several advantages:

  1. Ease of use. When installing automation on the sash, opening occurs after one press of the button. In this case, the owner of the site does not need to leave the car or house.
  2. Saving site space. Sliding structures They take up little space, since in the open position they are located along the fence, as can be seen in the photo.
  3. There is no need to clean the area around the gate. This is due to the fact that the gate leaves do not touch the ground and move along a guide.
  4. Durability. If you install sliding gates correctly, you can use them for a long time without worrying about them becoming deformed.

Many experienced builders agree that the best material For cladding sliding gates, profiled metal is used. A separate group should include gates with a wicket built into the door leaf. Such structures are constructed using the same technology, but a frame for the gate is welded inside the canvas.

Gate project development

Before creating a diagram of the future structure, it is worth determining where the gate will be located. If the house is located in the center of the site, it is worth placing the doors opposite the facade of the building. If the cottage is located close to the roadway, the doors should be located as far from the road as possible. This is due to the fact that if the gate is opened frequently, a lot of dust and exhaust gas will enter the area. If the site is located in a natural area, the gate can be located near the facade. By looking at photos of different areas, you can understand where exactly the doors should be placed.

To develop a drawing, it is worth deciding on the dimensions of the future structure. To do this, you need to measure the width and height of the opening. During determination optimal height It is worth considering that there should be a small gap under the sashes. If the entrance is covered with asphalt or concrete, you can leave a gap of about 7 cm. For unstabilized soil, you should leave about 10 cm.

When creating a drawing, it is worth comparing the dimensions of the facing material and the frame. In this case, it is best to create the structure in such a way that the dimensions match. This will allow you to get the job done in more time. short term. Having correctly drawn up the drawing, you can begin to select materials.

Tools and materials for gates

Before carrying out work, you should prepare the following materials:

  1. Profile pipe for creating the frame of the valves. Most often, products with a cross section of 60*40*1.5 are used.
  2. The pipe that is needed to create supports. The choice of a particular option depends on the weight of the sashes. If they weigh less than 150 kg, you can use an 80*80*4 mm pipe. When the weight of the valves is 150-300 kg, pipes of 10*100*5 mm are used. If they weigh more than 300 kg, pipes are used
  3. Loops.
  4. Locks.
  5. Profiled sheeting.
  6. Dye.

It is also important to prepare an angle grinder, a building level, a shovel and brushes for painting the canvas.

Gate installation sequence

The first step is to install support pillars. They are metal supports that are concreted to a depth of more than 1 meter. Installation is carried out as follows:

  1. The pipes are first cleaned of rust. In this case, their surface must be degreased, and then primed and painted.
  2. After this, in pre-selected places it is necessary to dig holes to a depth of about 1.5 m.
  3. A sand cushion about 10 cm high is created at the bottom of the pit. Crushed stone is poured onto it to a height of about 10 cm.
  4. After this, a support is placed in the hole. It must be secured in a vertical position, and reinforcement must be placed in the hole.
  5. At the last stage, pouring occurs concrete mortar with the addition of fine crushed stone.

After carrying out such work, it is necessary to leave the foundation of the supports to harden for about a week. This time is worth spending on making the sashes. Such work is carried out in several stages:

  1. First, the pipes for the frame are prepared. They are cleaned, primed and painted. If this is not done, rust may appear on the material during operation.
  2. After this, it is worth cutting the pipes at an angle of 45 degrees into sections.
  3. Then it is worth decomposing all the segments into flat surface. It is important to measure the diagonals before starting to connect all the parts. If they are equal, the structure is assembled correctly. First, all joints are tacked by welding and after measurement they are finally welded.
  4. Corners are installed at the corners of the frame being created. This helps to increase the rigidity of the structure.
  5. After this, the crossbars are welded to the frame. The stiffening ribs should be welded at a distance of approximately 40-50 cm from the edge of the sash.
  6. The next step is to sand and paint the joints.
  7. Then the sheathing is carried out with corrugated board. On at this stage the corrugated sheet is laid on the frame and fixed with self-tapping screws or rivets. Fasteners must be placed in the depressions of the specified material. When calculating the number of screws, it is worth remembering that for 1 square meter you need about 10 pieces.