Problems with waterproofing and hydraulic concrete, unfortunately, are only remembered when the building or structure has already been constructed. For almost all structures made of concrete, or simply put, protecting everything built from concrete from water penetration is, to put it mildly, a hot topic. The task of waterproofing vegetable pits is very important, because rotten potatoes and spoiled preparations will probably delight you in winter.
Simple and effective method waterproofing your vegetable pit - using the KT Tron material system.
b) joints, cracks.
The material has a penetrating effect, so the groove under it does not require pre-treatment with penetrating compounds, which distinguishes the KT Tron line of materials from other brands.
Waterproofing concrete with a penetrating compound:
It is necessary to ensure that the surfaces treated with waterproofing materials of the KT Tron system remain wet for 3 days, that cracking and peeling of the coating should not be observed, and that the temperature regime is maintained.
To moisten treated surfaces when waterproofing vegetable pits, the following methods are usually used: water spraying, covering the concrete surface with plastic film.
Groundwater poses a danger of creating in the cellar high humidity, capable of leading to destruction made of reinforced concrete structural elements on which the building stands. Vegetables and other products stored in the basement can also suffer from rotting fungi and other types of microorganisms for which dampness is an ideal breeding ground. Penetrating from the cellar into the living quarters of the house, representatives of flora pathogenic for humans cause respiratory diseases, allergies and other acute and chronic diseases.
When building a cellar and the foundation of a house, it is very important to use external and internal waterproofing, allowing to protect the structure from the adverse effects of groundwater, rain and melt water. This is one of the most critical stages of construction, consisting of a set of measures.
The main function of waterproofing is performed by a properly constructed drainage system and blind area around the building, which remove precipitation from it. Insulating the foundation and floor of the cellar prevents groundwater from entering. If necessary work were not carried out during the construction phase, internal waterproofing will reduce humidity.
Important! Asbestos cement, plastic or ceramic pipes are used as drainage pipes. Their purpose is to collect and drain water to a specially equipped place.
10. Then layers of crushed stone and sand are laid on the bottom of the pit, the thickness of each of which can be from 10 to 15 cm. The surface of each of the filled materials is compacted.
Important! It should be taken into account that sand protects rolled types of waterproofing from damage by crushed stones that have sharp edges.
11. After the base is prepared, one of the types is laid roll waterproofing, for example, roofing felt. Welding the joints of the material is done using a gas torch. There must be at least two layers, each of them is covered with bitumen mastic. But, if the groundwater exceeds the level at which the cellar floor is located, the number of layers is increased by another one or two.
Important! If food will be stored in the cellar, the floor should not be insulated. This will allow you to maintain indoors optimal temperature, both in winter and summer.
12. Construction of formwork and subsequent pouring of concrete. Rigid mixtures that do not allow water to pass through are best suited for making concrete. In addition to the floor, the walls of the cellar can also be made of concrete; they can also be built of red brick. Sand-lime brick cannot be used in basement construction.
If the cellar was built earlier, but needs waterproofing, you can dig out the walls almost to the foundation and build a blind area and a clay castle around them.
Important! Thanks to clay castle The pressure wall is protected from the effects of groundwater.
5. Soil is poured into the resulting void between the castle and the walls. A blind area is created from clay and crushed stone on the ground surface with a slight slope in the direction opposite to the building.
6. The part of the walls that rises above the soil level is covered with coating-type waterproofing.
First of all, all existing joints at the boundary between the floor and walls are treated with bitumen mastic. Concrete structures that are newly created and not completely cured are lubricated with penetrating type insulating materials. If the cellar was built a long time ago, mastic is simply applied to them.
After treatment with bitumen mastic, plaster is applied, for which it is used cement mixture. If there are cracks in the walls, for the construction of which blocks or bricks were used, a 2-centimeter layer of waterproofing mastic is applied to them. They cover her coating mastic having a light texture. This will give a uniform shade to the walls. Then plastering is done using a cement mixture.
The walls can be made rigid by attaching a frame made of reinforcement, onto which 3 or 4 cm thick plaster is applied. The high-quality preservation of food in the cellar is facilitated by the application of biologically stable coatings.
1. Penetrating materials
They allow you to block the flow of moisture through small capillaries in concrete. It consists of a cement mixture, chemically active substances and fine sand. The plasticity of the structure and fine grain size contribute to deep penetration into the thickness of the surface (up to 10 cm) with subsequent crystallization in it. Occupying the capillaries, the crystals prevent the flow of water through them.
An additional advantage of using materials of this type is that concrete is more resistant to low temperatures, prevents the growth of bacteria, and lacks toxic components.
Penetrating materials include Hydrotex, whose penetration depth is 10 cm, and Penetron, which can penetrate 20 cm inside the wall.
Important! These types of insulating materials are applied only to wet concrete surface, they are very effective in increasing the ability of concrete to resist the influence of groundwater.
2. Painting materials
Materials of this type include bitumen, polymer, bitumen-polymer and polymer-cement mixture. They are applied in three or more layers, the thickness of which ranges from 2 to 6 mm. The inclusion of polymers, such as latex, in the mixture improves the properties of the materials. Mastic containing nairite (BNM) is used at low temperatures, applied in a layer of 4 mm.
The disadvantage of materials containing epoxy resins is considered to be excessive rigidity, but their advantages include the possibility of use for both external and internal waterproofing, ease of application and low cost.
3. Pasting materials
They have been the most popular for many years. These include roofing felt, roofing felt and other materials in rolls. They are laid on the floor on a layer of mortar before pouring the concrete screed. Except roll types can be used polymer materials in sheets. Typically, materials are laid in three layers, between which polymer primers are used as an adhesive composition - for materials made from polymers, molten bitumen - respectively, for materials containing bitumen.
4. Impregnating materials
Applied to the floor of a wood cellar prepared for cladding ceramic tiles, laying linoleum. These are waterproofing mixtures that contain substances with astringent qualities - bitumen, polymer-based varnish.
5. Cast type waterproofing
This is one of the most reliable methods of waterproofing. A structure in the form of a fence is installed above the surface of the cellar. The resulting space is filled with mastics or other special solutions. After they harden, a continuous waterproofing surface is obtained. According to the temperature values of the poured mass, cold, hot and asphalt-polymer types of cast waterproofing are divided.
When creating waterproofing, it is necessary to take into account that all its types, excluding roll, must have a continuous surface. Special attention should be given to seams and joints on the surface. In a cellar room that has a well-functioning ventilation system, waterproofing is more effective.
Waterproofing the cellar helps protect not only the cellar itself, but also the entire house from high humidity. This increases its service life and allows you to create an optimal microclimate in it. Methods of waterproofing, type of material and method of its application and combination with other types are selected based on the characteristics of the structure and existing conditions.
Today, many car owners prefer to care for their vehicles and carry out repairs themselves. If you are one of them, then you need own garage, which will have special devices. This can be called inspection hole .
Its construction only seems simple at first. In fact, the work must be carried out in accordance with accepted building regulations. The recess must be made strictly according to size. The inspection hole is made so that it is light and dry. Groundwater protection holes in the garage is a priority for the car owner.
Pit in the garage when there is one groundwater , may cause problems. Proximity to such waters often causes constant dampness in the garage. Mold appears on the walls, cracks appear on the floor and walls. When the water rises, the building may be flooded.
There is another problem. It is as follows. When you make a viewing hole, it may be observed temperature difference. It will be colder in the recess.
IMPORTANT! With absence high-quality waterproofing foundations and garage pits, cold air will go up. As it rises, it will cover the bottom of the car with condensation, which may cause rust. In addition, the room will be stuffy and humid.
There are two reliable ways to solve the question: “How to make a hole in the garage if groundwater is close?” The first is based on careful waterproofing device. The second assumes removal of the pit away from the car parking lot. You can choose any option, but it is recommended to cover the structure with boards of suitable size. Pre-wrap them with plastic wrap.
If you decide that inspection hole you no longer need it, then you can fall asleep. This will require sand and gravel. Place sand at the bottom of the hole, then add gravel. No need to use earth! You can also clay fill a hole in the garage.
Do waterproofing you can do it on your own, without turning to specialists. Do primary protection as follows:
Available for sale different materials, which are excellent for protecting the recess. Bituminous materials Manufacturers produce it in the form of rolls. Cover the shelves and niches that are in the recess with material. Divide the roll into fragments; you need to lubricate all parts with special solvents in advance.
Lay the material so that the sheets overlap by at least 10 cm. Pay attention to joints. To glue them together, you need to use a torch, or cover the joints with molten bitumen. Some car owners use for this purpose solvent.
Polymer membranes. They are laid overlapping on the frame and used for reinforcement. metal grid. Cover the entire surface of the pit with material. The membranes are connected by welding. A hot air stream can be used. Since the method is based on the use of welding equipment, it is better to entrust such work to specialists.
Penetrating materials. Buy a special mixture, mix with water. The solution should be applied to a slightly damp surface of the inspection hole. After crystallization, the pores in the concrete are reliably sealed.
Liquid rubber. Apply the material to a damp surface. This method is suitable if the temperature environment is in the range from + 10 to + 24. After finishing spraying, wait a few hours.
Waterproofing during the construction of a garage must be done in a complex, it must be internal and external. It is important to correctly determine pit depth.
When making calculations, be sure to take into account how thick the preparatory layer will be. The height of the ceiling of the pit is also important.
Dig a pit, taking into account the indentations. Make them wide at least 1 meter. Level the bottom of the pit, making a slight slope towards the walls from the center. Make a water seal out of clay and lay it. The layer should be at least 10 cm, compact the base.
To drain water from the object, do drainage trenches. Their depth must be at least 0.5 m. Do not forget that the trenches must be made with a slope. Lay on the bottom geotextiles, position it so that it protrudes a meter beyond the edges of the trench.
Place a 5 cm layer of gravel on the geotextile. Buy drainage pipes and place them in the trenches. Make a slope of 50 cm by 1 linear meter. To install drainage pipes, buy asbestos-cement products, either polymer or ceramic pipes. They need to be taken to the place where there will be collect water. Cover the pipes with a layer of gravel 30 cm thick. Wrap the “pie” with a geotextile sheet protruding above the trench.
Fill the pit with crushed stone and sand. Alternate layers, tamping each of them. Sand is needed for waterproofing protection, because it can be broken through by the sharp edges of large factions. Place on the base roofing felt, be sure to weld its edges using gas burner. Coat with bitumen mastic. Repeat the procedure, laying the material in 3 layers. If groundwater can rise above the pit, then you need to make even more layers.
Prepare the formwork, pour concrete floor. Use those mixtures that contain modifying additives.
Watch the video on how to waterproof a hole in a garage with your own hands:
If the facility is in operation, but there is a need for protecting the inspection pit from groundwater, then you can do the following:
If you want to make the coating more rigid, apply plaster to the frame made of reinforcement. The layer thickness can be 4 cm. If necessary, apply an antiseptic composition to the plaster. It is best to use at work waterproof, not ordinary cement.
Penetrating protection is safe and will prevent garage flooding. The mixture must be applied to wet concrete, so the capillaries will be closed with crystals. You can use this method to protect even old surfaces.
Before treatment, clean all floors and walls from dirt, remove stains. This will open up the pores. The composition is best applied in layers; use a spatula to work. You can use in hard to reach places brush. Above waterproofing cover with cement plaster. A special injection composition is suitable for repairing cracks. Manufacturers offer a range of polyurethane-based materials.
By following the rules, you can easily figure out how to do inspection hole in the garage if groundwater is nearby. This will get you pretty good save money.
Essential: Anything made of concrete tends to let water through. Only structures made of special concrete - very expensive and rarely used - do not require additional waterproofing. Regular premises- cellars, garages, vegetable pits, etc. - made from ordinary concrete. Therefore, in the absence of proper waterproofing of a cellar or vegetable pit, in the spring these rooms are flooded, in the fall water gushes like a fountain from the seams and joints, in the summer moisture oozes through the thickness of the walls.
And in such a situation, nothing helps - neither roofing felt, nor caisson, nor special plaster mixtures etc., since they are usually used internally.
Wherein waterproofing material resists water pressure not against pressing, but against tearing. If the owner took care of the waterproofing of the cellar or vegetable pit in advance and glued/plastered the walls on the outside, then the material resists water more successfully. But the water pressed a little more or a small hole appeared in the coating, and all efforts to protect it from water become futile.
Moreover, such a coating is difficult to repair: it is difficult to find the location of the leak, because water can come out tens of meters from the point where the waterproofing layer is broken. It is difficult to waterproof a flooded cellar, because most materials are used on a dry surface. Not to mention the problems that repairmen face when working with damaged external waterproofing.
Finally, in winter time or during rain it is impossible to carry out waterproofing repair work on the outside. It is more logical to use the following for waterproofing a vegetable pit or cellar: Construction Materials, dry building mixtures, which do not create a coating on concrete. Such waterproofing cannot be destroyed because it becomes part of the concrete structure, and does not need to be repaired because it lasts as long as the concrete itself. Such waterproofing materials can be used inside or outside the room. There is no need to dry the surface before applying waterproofing. Moreover, the surface should be thoroughly moistened.
For them there is no problem of resistance to water pressure - whether it is pressed by water from the outside or from the inside, it makes no difference for such waterproofing materials.
Such waterproofing becomes part of the concrete, a single concrete whole. This is not impregnation, not plaster, not sheet material. These materials are called “penetrating waterproofing”. How does the material work? Penetrating waterproofing is a dry mixture with special properties. The mixture is diluted with water and a thin layer of 1-2 mm is applied with a brush to the damp concrete surface.
It doesn’t matter whether it’s from the inside or outside of the structure: the waterproofing components react with the components of concrete and begin to penetrate deep into the walls or floor through capillaries and microcracks to a depth of 90 centimeters. As it moves, the capillaries of the concrete are blocked by insoluble crystals. Crystalline formations of waterproofing become part of the concrete. These crystals, while blocking access to water, do not interfere with the movement of steam - the design “breathes”. The higher the moisture content of the concrete, the more successful and faster the reaction between the components of the mixture and the concrete and the formation of crystals occurs. The thin layer formed on the surface of the concrete serves only to secure and temporarily hold on the concrete those very active chemical components that play main role in waterproofing a structure. After some time, this layer can simply be removed.
It is reliable, simple and economical way waterproofing vegetable pit. Concrete treated with a penetrating mixture can withstand water pressure of 20 atmospheres. By using mixtures for waterproofing a vegetable pit or other structure, the owner saves significantly on materials (when calculating the processing of one square meter surface), on time and labor costs (one person can easily cope with, for example, waterproofing a garage during the day, without knowing anything about technology and materials).
And most importantly, waterproofing a vegetable pit is done once and for the entire service life of the structure (at least fifty years). The mixtures are certified for use in contact with drinking water. In particular, they are used not only for waterproofing vegetable pits and cellars, but also for waterproofing concrete pools, treatment facilities and so on.
Many owners of private houses set up a vegetable pit on their property. You can also place it under the garage. It's perfect for long-term storage pickles, fruits and vegetables. This does not require special devices - if you properly arrange this room and provide the necessary air flow, the products will be stored for a long time, remaining just as fresh and healthy.
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Making a vegetable pit in a garage or on a plot is not so difficult, but you still have to take into account a few basic points so as not to create emergency situation. So, if the selected location is located within the city, it is important to make sure that there are no utilities - pipes or electrical cables. Of course, outside the city the probability of stumbling upon them is not so great, so this question arises first of all for those who want to equip a cellar under the garage. However, it is still worth using special search devices or reviewing area plans to eliminate the possibility of unpleasant surprises.
Studying the soil in the place of the future underground - another one important stage. It is necessary to find out at what level the groundwater lies and whether it passes through the space where it is planned to dig a hole. If they flow above the bottom of the cellar, the likelihood of flooding at any time is very high. For the reliability of the structure, the water must be at least half a meter below the bottom of the pit.
If they get too close, there is no need to abandon the arrangement - you can equip the cellar with reliable waterproofing. But this still comes with a certain risk, since water can find a miniature crack and penetrate inside. Therefore, it is better to consult with specialists on all issues - they will tell you whether it is worth starting construction on this site.
Vegetable pit with your own hands
In addition to waterproofing, which is not always necessary, there are also works included in mandatory list. So, it will be necessary to install ventilation - at least natural -. This is necessary to maintain a stable indoor climate, remove gases that can form during fermentation of products, and supply the cellar with fresh air necessary for long-term storage of vegetables and fruits.
In the cellar, you need to ensure a humidity of at least 85 percent, and preferably 95. In addition, it is important to know in a vegetable pit: the optimal value is from two to five degrees Celsius. These conditions are similar to those maintained in a refrigerator. They are considered the most suitable for preservation useful substances in products and prevent their spoilage. To monitor these values, you can install special devices in the cellar. To prevent vegetables and fruits from sprouting during storage, you need to keep the room dark.
Before starting work, you need to carefully examine the place where you plan to build a vegetable pit. Of course, if it is already planned installed garage or a house, the choice is small, but in some cases it may turn out that the selected area is unsafe. In this case, you will have to abandon this idea or change the place.
Based on the collected data, a work plan can be drawn up. It should include:
Vegetable pit is ready
For clarity, it is best to build a diagram with calculations. Often design errors are identified at this stage, so do not neglect it, otherwise they may need to be corrected in practice, and not on paper.
When calculating the desired dimensions, it is worth considering that the pit should not be too wide. Optimal sizes - up to two meters wide, maximum - two and a half. The standard depth of such a storage facility is 1.7 m.
It is best to leave a space of about half a meter near each wall for waterproofing. In addition, in most cases it will be necessary to insulate the room. All this will require a place that needs to be provided in advance. Thus, the foundation pit must exceed the planned dimensions by half a meter on each side.
How to decorate the room inside - leave it minimalist or come up with a special design - everyone will decide for themselves. However, it is advisable to make the descent into the cellar traditional, in the form of a leading down wooden stairs with strong, wide steps. Above it there will be a hatch covering the entrance to the pit. This design is quite simple and at the same time easy to use.
DIY cellar
After careful planning, you can begin building your own vegetable pit. The first step is to dig a pit for the future cellar. Then you need to dig a trench in it in which the foundation will be installed. Crushed stone is poured onto the bottom (the thickness of its layer should be at least ten centimeters), and on top of it - construction sand a layer of fifteen centimeters. Both levels need to be properly compacted and leveled.
Then you can fill the base with heated bitumen or another similar composition. If you want to make the storage very reliable, you can put a waterproofing material - for example, roofing felt - directly on the sand and cover it on top reinforced concrete. However, such work will be more labor-intensive and cost much more. Not all cases require such powerful waterproofing. Sometimes wooden planks are placed on the floor on top of the concrete.
After the floor in the vegetable pit of a garage or private house has been filled, you can move on to the walls. They are most often built from concrete or brick. The following requirements are established for them:
After the walls are built, they are coated with hot bitumen. At the same stage, they can be insulated, and then reinforced with a mounting wall and covered with plaster.
The strength of the ceiling is especially important if there is any building above the cellar. Having made a vegetable pit in the garage, it is worth remembering that a car will be standing above it. In the case of a private house, everything is even more serious. If the area at the top is empty, then the requirements for the structure are somewhat reduced - the main thing is that it is reliable and does not collapse down.
The ceiling can be laid out either from bricks laid on boards, or from concrete - in this case you will need a frame made of reinforcement. At this stage, it is necessary to provide all the required openings: the entrance where the ladder and hatch will be installed, and the ventilation passage points. Most comfortable spot for the manhole - the center of the underground. In this case, all walls will remain free, along which many shelving can be installed. Final stage- ceiling insulation. To do this, it is coated with bitumen and thermally insulated with foam plastic or expanded clay.
Do-it-yourself dry basement, cellar and pit in the garage
In some cases, when groundwater is too close and there are fears that no amount of waterproofing will help, it is possible to install a vegetable pit with metal walls. It is best to purchase a ready-made container for these purposes. required sizes- for example, part of a tank or a piece gas pipe, the diameter of which is almost two meters. It will already have waterproofing installed, and all that is needed is to weld the ends.
Excavation of a pit of the required size should be placed metal structure install inside and on the sides drainage system. It should consist of PVC pipes with a diameter of at least 0.2 meters. It is best to fill all free space with a mixture of sand and gravel. This will help prevent the vegetable pit from moving due to groundwater.
When water appears in drainage pipes it can be pumped out with a pump. Exhaust and supply ventilation are especially important in such buildings. If it is not installed, condensation will constantly accumulate on the floor, and the room will be high humidity, which can lead to rotting of vegetables and damage to valuables. In addition, to remove excess moisture from the air, you can place a container of salt in the cellar. The ceiling needs to be insulated.
Although both concrete and bricks seem quite durable, they still have microcracks through which water can penetrate. It also doesn’t hurt to insulate a pit made of any material, since in cold weather it can easily freeze. There are several basic materials used in this:
Even if it is known that groundwater lies deep and the hole is not in danger, minimal waterproofing will not hurt. It is worth considering insulation if vegetables or fruits that are sensitive to temperature changes are stored in the cellar, as well as in regions with severe frosts in winter.
The easiest way to ventilate a vegetable pit is natural. This does not involve any additional devices, a minimum of structures and the usual laws of physics are used. To do this, two air ducts of the same cross-section are mounted in opposite corners. Supply ventilation should have an outlet 0.2 meters from the floor, pass through the ceiling of the room and go outside, rising at least 0.2 meters above the ground. The exhaust pipe should be located under the ceiling, in the ceiling. It needs to be brought out as high as possible.
Due to the difference in pressure inside and outside the room, air will naturally penetrate inside. In case it is too cold outside, you can provide special dampers on the pipes. In addition, it is possible to install nets that protect against dirt and insects.
This method is the simplest, but it has many disadvantages, the main one of which is its dependence on weather conditions. IN warm time air may not move in or out at all because the temperature and pressure will be the same everywhere.
If the cellar is large, it is best to install forced ventilation, which includes mechanical elements - fans. Of course, electricity consumption will be a noticeable disadvantage, but the efficiency of such a system will be much higher, and it can function in any weather.
Installation of the system must begin with the same pipes for exhaust and supply ventilation. In this case, they do not have to be placed straight - you can also place them at an angle, since air will be forced along them special device. When selecting ventilation power, you need to proceed from the volume of the room. A device that is too strong can freeze the cellar; a device that is too weak will be useless and will not bring a noticeable effect.
A design that combines both natural and forced ventilation will function best. To do this, insert into the ventilation duct to remove air exhaust fan. It removes air currents from the room and provides an inflow fresh air from another ventilation pipe.
If you follow all the rules, correctly draw up a work plan and strictly follow it, anyone can install and equip a vegetable pit. If at any stage problems arise, you can seek help from specialists.
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