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Photo of an adult fool with multiple magnification

To be fair, it should be noted that only some species of collembola are classified as pests. But there are springtails that eat nematodes and enchytraeids, thereby bringing benefits. Insects feeding on rotting organic matter improves soil formation. The white fool is one of those four species of “brothers” that stand out for their harmfulness from the more than 4 thousand that live on earth. We can talk about the danger of insects in the case of a sharp growth of the colony, when there is not enough rotting residue in the pots to feed, and the thinnest thread-like roots of the root system begin to be eaten. Most often, orchids, violets, and gloxinias fall into the risk zone.

Attention! The appearance of springtails in indoor flowers is an indicator of waterlogged soil in pots and flowerpots, improper care for plants.

Prevention is a preventive method of control

Timely prevention will help avoid the appearance of springtails and indoor plants.

A large population of white fools is the cause of illness in indoor pets

• The outer surfaces of flowerpots and pots, flower shelves, window sills, and stands are wiped with detergents.
• Pre-irrigation is organized hot water soil before planting flowers. Larvae and adults brought with the soil are destroyed.
• If necessary, the old soil is completely replaced with new one.
• The dosage is strictly observed organic fertilizers– potential food for springtails.
• Organization of moderate watering and frequent loosening of the soil.
• When transplanting plants, the soil is treated in advance, and the flower container is equipped with an effective drainage system, eliminating stagnation of water.
• If necessary, the lump of earth on the root is dried in a shaded place in the breeze or blotted with soft paper.
• Rotten roots must be cut off.
• To prevent the reproduction of insects, containers for flowers are selected suitable size, devoid of voids in which fungus, bacteria and other food for the fool can develop.
• For the purpose of prevention, planted (or transplanted) flowers are watered with an aqueous solution: 1 liter of liquid and 4g of Fitosporin.

Often high humidity air pollution in the room occurs due to water supply leaks and faulty shut-off valves. Therefore, measures are being taken to eliminate them. Ventilation of rooms to ventilate plants should not be neglected.

Drying

It is impossible to get rid of dura in an orchid, ficus, gardenia, and Dieffenbachia without thoroughly drying the soil in the pot. The soil is dried thoroughly, to a powdery state: the pot should become much lighter than its original weight. If dracaena, lemon and other indoor crops withstand a lack of moisture, then azalea and gardenia immediately begin to shed their leaves and dry out. Therefore, the process is controlled for each plant separately. The roots removed from the soil are carefully examined, and putrefactive, damaged areas are removed.

Attention! Excessive soil moisture is not always a sign that soil podura or other bugs necessarily live in it. There are never any of them in pots with moisture-loving cyperus, just as there are no rotting organic matter.

No chemical attacks

Having discovered small populations of insects, you can do without the use of chemical reagents.

• When a springtail is first detected, completely immerse the entire flower along with the pot in water. The floating insects are immediately collected. The plant should not be watered. The top layer of soil (up to 40 mm thick) is removed, and clean, dry sand is poured in its place.
• If podura pests are found in a flowerpot with orchids, the plant is removed from the bark and the roots are washed well with water. The processed rhizome is planted in the whole bark. The rot is cut off and the sections are dried.
• You can dissolve 0.5 tablets of citramon (ascophen) in 3 liters of water from home first aid kit. When watering flowers, use this solution.
• Place the cut potato (cut side down) into the container with the flower. After a while, remove the vegetable along with the podurs that have penetrated into it.
• Dry lemon and orange skins and place them in pots with plants. Insects cannot stand the smell of citrus fruits and “leave.”
• Do not water the soil with a solution containing decomposing organic matter: milk, tea or coffee, etc.
• The soil and green areas are dusted with wood ash. Crushed into powder, it is sprinkled on the soil with a layer of 10 mm with scanty watering.
• Dry mustard is also used for dusting. Powder is sprinkled on the soil in a pot with a layer thickness of 10 mm with limited watering.
• Water with a solution: 40 g of grated laundry soap, pour 1 liter of water and dissolve.
• Dry mustard (10 g) is silted with water (1 l) at a temperature of 60°C. The solution is infused for 48 hours, after which it is filtered. Used for treating flower seeds before planting.
• The same mustard (1 tsp) is diluted in 1 liter of water. This is how the composition is prepared for watering and simultaneously destroying other pests.

Chemicals to the rescue

If it is not possible to mechanically remove the larvae and adult insects that have settled in the roots of the plant (planting in deep tubs), use insecticides: Agravertin, Fitoverm, Confidor. The solution is prepared in the following proportion: 8 g of the drug per bucket of water. If Intavir is used, then 1 tablet of the product is pre-diluted in 10 liters of water.

The product has been tested many times against indoor pests

Podura in flowers feel very confident, so the plant needs to be watered twice every 7 days with an insecticide solution at the rate of 100 ml of the drug per 0.7 liter pot.

Attention! Insecticides should be applied to the soil to soak it, rather than used for irrigation purposes. Larvae and mature insects live under top layer soil.

Fine-grained sand can be used. It is washed well and dried. The top thin layer of soil (several centimeters) is removed from the pot. The remaining soil is watered with any insecticide against the Colorado potato beetle. A thin layer of sand is scattered on top. Apply granulated Grom-2 or Bazudin, scattering the drugs into large quantities onto a slightly damp soil surface. A thin layer of soil is laid on top and watered abundantly. For greater effectiveness, do not water flowers in pots for 5 days after treatment.

• An infusion of tobacco dust, shag, red hot pepper. Infuse a pound of tobacco waste or shag in 10 liters of water for 48 hours. Add soap shavings (40g) to the strained mixture. The plant itself is sprayed with the finished product and the soil is watered.
• You can also cultivate the soil with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.
• Dry celandine is used. 1 kg of raw materials is poured and infused in water (10 l). The infusion, aged for 24 hours, is filtered. They cultivate the soil.

Radical means of control will not be needed if plant nutrition and watering regime are properly organized and a healthy indoor microclimate is created.

Insects not only affect garden plantings. There are no less types of pests of indoor plants, and damage to house flowers in the absence of proper treatment can be disastrous. To combat this scourge, there are a number of biological preparations that do not harm the plants themselves, but help in exterminating pests.

Types of pests of indoor plants with photos and names

This material is devoted to pests of indoor plants and the fight against them. But before you fight pests of indoor plants, you need to know the “enemy in person.”

Below are photos, names and descriptions of pests of indoor plants, and also lists drugs that will help protect home plantings:

Spider mite . The most common and dangerous pest indoor plants - spider mite. A very small insect, almost invisible without a magnifying glass. Appears on the underside of leaves. In dry air and high temperature multiplies very quickly.

First defeat spider mite is found in the form of light spots from injections and sucking of juices from the leaves. Subsequently, when pests multiply strongly, the entire lower surface of the leaves becomes covered with the finest cobwebs. Sometimes all the apical shoots of the plant are shrouded in cobwebs, the leaves become silver-gray in color, growth stops, and severely affected leaves fall off. The pest damages many, including Chinese rose, aspidistra, and palm trees.

Aphids They live in colonies on young leaves, sucking juices from plant cells, causing them to curl, yellow and dry out.

As you can see in the photo, these pests of indoor plants are small, up to 1 mm, green insects:

The pest constantly multiplies throughout the year. One female gives birth to up to 150 live larvae, which after 7-10 days turn into adults, also capable of reproduction. Starting from the second or third generation, winged females appear that can fly to other plants. Aphids are the main carriers viral disease- mosaics of leaves.

Thrips . Houseplants are damaged by several species of these small, fast-growing insects. They are especially harmful in hot weather. Females lay eggs in the tissue of leaves and flower petals, making tunnels in them. These leaves have a pale silver tint. Thrips live on the underside of leaves. Adult insects can jump onto nearby plants. Greenhouse thrips attacks palm trees and other flower crops.

See what this type of indoor plant pest looks like in the photo below.:

The scutellum of the female is white, round or short oval, the scutellum of the male is elongated, also white.

What other pests of indoor plants are there that cause enormous damage to home crops?:

Soft scale insect - sucking insect. Pests inhabit the underside of the leaf, especially many of them sit along the veins, as well as on the stems of plants.

The female is flat, broadly oval, yellowish-brown, 3-4 mm long. The larvae (vagrants) are very small, spread throughout the plant and stick to the leaves, petioles and shoots. Very common on oleander palms, dracaenas and other indoor plants. When multiplying greatly, the leaves become covered with sooty fungus, which contaminates the plants and they grow poorly.

Hemispherical pseudoscale insect . Also large insect, appearing on the undersides of leaves and on plant stems. The false shield is short-oval, convex, brown in color.

The female lays many eggs under the scutellum, from which very small larvae hatch and spread throughout the plant. This pest affects asparagus, myrtle, cyperus and other plants.

White Podura is a jumping insect that is found in flower pots on the soil surface. Insects have an elongated shape with antennae and three pairs of legs.

They breed in moist soil and live in compost and humus soil. A lot of them appear in the spring. They feed on plant debris, but in pots they can eat underground parts of plants. Potted flowers are also damaged by soil flies, mosquitoes, and furrowed weevil.

Mealybugs . They appear on the underside of leaves along the veins and on the stems. The female is oval (length from 3.5 to 5 mm), all covered with a powdery waxy coating.

She lays eggs in white cotton-like secretions in the axils of the leaves. The hatched larvae spread throughout the plant. Mealybugs cause more damage to azaleas, cacti and others flower plants in rooms and . The females secrete honeydew, and a sooty fungus spreads on the leaves, which heavily pollutes the plants.

What pests affect indoor plants in greenhouses?:

Whitefly - pest. Almost all plants in the room are affected soft leaves. This small insect about 2 mm in length with sucking mouthparts. It is distinguished by a yellowish body and two pairs of white pollinated wings.

It sucks not only leaves, but also petioles, which turn yellow and then die prematurely. The pest produces several generations of offspring per year and room conditions active for all 12 months. Fuchsias, ferns, and geraniums are especially affected by whiteflies.

How to get rid of pests of indoor plants: protection and treatment

How to get rid of pests of indoor plants using modern biological preparations:

• Helps get rid of aphids, thrips, whiteflies, and mites biological drug“Fitoverm” (a 5 mm ampoule is dissolved in 0.5 liters of water and sprayed on the plants). The period of protective action of the drug is 7 days. After this period, spraying is repeated if necessary.
• To protect indoor plants from pests, it is advisable to alternate the use of Fitoverm with Agrovertin or Iskra-Bio. These are also highly effective biological drugs. After spraying the plants, feeding and locomotor activity of insects stops after 4-16 hours, and their death occurs within 2-3 days. The maximum effect from the use of biological products occurs on days 5-6.
• Large pests - scale insects and scale insects - can be destroyed by mechanically collecting them with tweezers. Good remedy against pests of indoor plants living in the soil - the drug "Grom-2".
• Another effective remedy pest control of indoor plants - spraying with sulfur colloidal (5 g per 1 liter of water) will protect them from mites, as well as from scale insects, scale insects and powdery mildew.

For the treatment of indoor plants damaged by pests, “Kleschevit” is indicated - a biological preparation for spider mites on cucumbers and tomatoes in protected soil, as well as mites on currants.

Advantages of the drug:

• High speed of exposure - ticks stop feeding after 6-8 hours, and their complete death occurs after 3-4 days.
• Minimum waiting period - the fruits can be eaten within 2 days after processing.
• Does not cause addiction to insect pests.

Green potassium soap is also an indispensable helper in gardens - it has no odor and is not poisonous to people. Potassium soap should be diluted at the rate of 20 g of liquid green soap per 1 liter of water. Spray secluded places especially carefully - the tops of shoots, leaf axils, apply a foam cap on the buds. Do not rinse off the soap solution!

Nematode

Nematode happens various types, the root usually forms spherical growths or swellings. Stem or leaf nematodes do not form swellings, but cause severe deformation of leaves, stems, and buds. Flowers, as a rule, do not even open. Begonias, gloxinias, ficuses, and ferns suffer greatly from nematodes. Their leaves wrinkle, seem to shrink, turn brown between the veins, young ones grow immediately twisted and ugly.

Some types of nematodes also form galls on flowers; nematode damage is often accompanied by symptoms of bacterial infections.

Fungus gnats

Sciarides or fungus gnats are small annoying midges that appear in flowers and fly throughout the apartment. They do not harm themselves, they do not eat the flowers, but mosquitoes are a sure sign that the plants are systematically flooded. You need to check the soil in pots with flowers, because if you do not eliminate waterlogging, the roots of the plants may rot.

If mosquitoes manage to lay eggs in the soil, they hatch into larvae that feed on rotting organic matter and can partially damage plant roots.

Mining flies

The larvae of these flies gnaw out the core of the leaves, leaving discolored patterns of passages on them - min. They damage the leaves of trees, shrubs, including conifers, and herbaceous plants, in indoor conditions can affect violets (Saintpaulias), succulents (euphorbia, sedum), hibiscus syngonium and other plants...

Root mites

Root and onion mites They feed on the underground part of plants - they gnaw out bulbs and feed on succulent roots. They are detected at a stage when the plant has already been severely damaged - growth is inhibited, the leaves turn yellow, buds and flowers do not form, sometimes one-sided drying out of the crown occurs - in individual branches, but more often the plant has general signs of starvation - chlorosis. Often, wounds on the roots and bulbs become infected, and the plant becomes infected with fusarium.

Promotes more rapid proliferation of root mites high humidity soil. Very often, affected indoor plants, especially small and tender ones, die. The best prevention is soil disinfection and quarantine of all purchased plants.

Occasional pests: woodlice, weevil, enchitraea, caterpillars

There are pests that appear quite rarely in flower pots - these are enchytraea; woodlice and earthworms can be brought in with the soil for planting plants; weevils or woodlice can get into the house from garden soil. If you have something crawling in your pot, look here, you might recognize the pest...

Many of them are not as dangerous as they seem, and sometimes not dangerous at all, for example, poduras or enchitraea can eat rotting plant roots, but in themselves do not cause the death of indoor flowers. Plants die from overwatering and putrefactive infections.

Poduras, springtails, springtails

Some small white fleas are jumping in pots with indoor plants. Gray worms swim in the tray after watering. Small brown spiders crawl around the roots. All these are soil inhabitants - springtails, springtails and podras. Harmless, in essence, inhabitants of soil rich in humus and organic matter. They come to our house with soil from the garden or store-bought soil. But as long as the soil moisture is moderate, the bugs are not visible. When the soil inside the pot does not dry out for many days, the roots of the plants begin to rot, and the duras multiply in large numbers.

Podura is a sign of poor care for indoor plants, systematic waterlogging, frequent watering, or incorrectly selected soil (too moisture-intensive, heavy, non-porous).

No one can avoid the appearance of indoor pests: neither a novice gardener nor an experienced one. Some, scale insects or aphids, attack many types of indoor plants, others are more selective and prefer certain species and in certain conditions. For example, mites rarely harm the ficus benjamina, but the scale insect eats it with pleasure.

If pests are detected, you must first get rid of them mechanically by wiping the leaves and stems with a sponge soaked in a soap solution. It is imperative to remove damaged buds, flowers, leaves and shoots; if the leaves begin to turn yellow or become stained, they will not recover. If the pest is noticed on only one plant, it is better to isolate the flower pot and watch the rest.

Try not to use insecticides unless absolutely necessary, especially toxicity class 2. All chemicals for pest control are unsafe for humans and animals (birds and fish). All of them release toxic substances to one degree or another. Therefore, if it is possible to fight pests with folk remedies, i.e. herbs, onion skins, and biological means plant protection, then you should definitely try them first.

Currently, the issue of using pesticides (plant protection products against diseases and pests) is approached quite carefully, but so far we can see warnings on the packaging of chemicals about precautions, and they cannot be completely safe.

Folk remedies for pests of indoor plants

• Yarrow - 80 g of dry crushed leaves, pour 1 liter of boiling water and leave for 36-48 hours, spray against aphids, thrips, mites.
• Tobacco, shag - leave 40 g in 1 liter of water for two days, strain and dilute with another 1 liter of water, spray against aphids and thrips.
• Onions - leave 15 g of chopped onions in 1 liter of water for 5-7 hours in a tightly closed container, spray against aphids and mites.
• Celandine during flowering - infuse 300-400 g of fresh or 100 g of dry celandine in 1 liter of water for 24-36 hours, spray against false scale insects, aphids, thrips.
• Kerosene -2 g per 10 liters of water + 40 g of laundry soap - against thrips and mites.
• Dandelion officinalis - 300-500 g of crushed roots or fresh leaves infuse for 2 hours in 10 liters warm water, filter and spray against thrips and mites.
• Marigold flowers - pour a glass of dried flowers into 1 liter of warm water, leave for 2 days, filter and spray the affected plants against thrips.
• Alder leaves - a glass of dry alder leaves is poured with one liter of boiling water and left for 24 hours. Then it is heated to 50 °C and kept in this infusion before planting the bulbs and tubers for 5 minutes. In this way, root mites are prevented.
• Wood ash - 1 cup of ash is infused in 5 liters of water, then a quarter of a piece of grated laundry soap is added there, sprayed against ticks and thrips.

Often the joy of purchasing an orchid is overshadowed by the appearance white bugs, similar to small pieces of cotton wool. This is the description given by flower owners when they see a mealybug. Because of its resemblance to lice, the mealybug has acquired a second popular name- hairy lice.

There are 500 species of this insect in the world, but plants on windowsills are more often infested by two species: citrus and bristly mealybug.

Citrus mealybug

Female citrus mealybugs:

1. They have an oval body 4 mm in length, pinkish in color, covered with a white fluffy coating.
2. They leave behind a viscous sticky secretion - honeydew, which attracts other insects.
3. Sometimes sooty fungus grows in the honeydew; the disease does not contribute to the health of the orchid.
4. Female beetles live on average 3 months, but are already able to reproduce on the 15th day after birth.

Males, unlike females, look like midges, fly next to the orchid, and can sit on windows. After hatching from the egg, males live no more than 4 days. They don't have oral apparatus, and they don't need food.

In this type of bug, like the previous one, only females and larvae are pests:

Signs of defeat

It has the following properties:

• Allows increase productivity by 50% in just a few weeks of use.
• You can get a good one harvest even on low-fertility soils and in unfavorable climatic conditions
• Absolutely safe

Causes of the pest

To rid an orchid of white bugs, you first need to figure out what caused the infection:

• First of all, weakened plants suffer; they are not able to synthesize substances that repel insects;
• if you don’t take enough care of the orchid and don’t remove old leaves and flowers in a timely manner, then you can miss the onset of infection with white bugs;
• improper watering (overmoistening or drying out the substrate), attracts pests;
• flaw sunlight, dry air and low temperature external environment leads to a weakening of the protective functions of the orchid;
• due to failure to comply with quarantine, newly acquired plants may develop a pest.

How dangerous is the pest?

Dust and fibers from the bugs stuck to the honeydew interfere with the gas exchange between the flower and environment, besides, a sooty fungus can grow in it, which will infect an already weakened flower.

Adult females and larvae feed on plant juices, sucking out everything useful material. If you do not start poisoning insects and treating the flower in time, this can lead to the death of the orchid and the spread of pests.

How to get rid of white bugs?

Mechanical removal

To remove white bugs you need:

Folk remedies

In advanced cases, surface treatment is not enough, so you should use several folk remedies from a white bug:

Use of chemicals

For insect control chemical industry produces a huge amount of funds. Their action is directed through the intestines, respiratory system, some of them are capable of poisoning plant tissues for bugs, some act by contact method.

Since white bugs are well protected from the outside, it is better to use contact preparations with a large number of young animals that are not yet completely covered with plaque and are vulnerable. For better effect, combined or enteric-contact drugs are produced.

To remove the worm, the following drugs are suitable:

• Biotlin;
• Spark "double effect";
• Confidor Extra;
• Bankol.

Aktara

Biotlin

Confidor

Preparations for combating mealybugs

When using chemicals, you should strictly adhere to the instructions for use, since some of them improper processing can harm the orchid. Do not neglect secondary treatment - bugs can acquire immunity to poison. The treatment is repeated after 1-2 weeks.

Preventing the appearance of white bugs

To prevent the orchid from getting bugs and not having to treat it, you should not neglect preventive measures:

• be sure to observe quarantine for newly acquired plants;
• remove old leaves and flowers;
• inspect regularly;
• wash under from time to time warm shower(no more than 50°).

Other orchid pests

Here are some of the most common causes of the epidemic:

• Open vents and windows. Flying insects easily penetrate through vents and cracks in the window.
• Moving plants outdoors warm time of the year.
• Purchase of an infected plant. Buying another beautiful flower, you may not notice lurking pests, which in indoor conditions begin to multiply quickly, spreading to nearby crops.

[!] Many nurseries, both domestic and foreign, are infested with insects. Despite the measures taken, some of the plants go on sale already infected.

As you can see, there are quite enough ways for aggressors to enter the closed space of an apartment. Of course, in indoor conditions pests attack plants much less frequently than in open ground, but if this happens, fighting them becomes a real difficulty.

The main types of pests on indoor plants and measures to combat them

In order to effectively deal with unwanted guests, you need to know them by sight. Let's look at the main insect pests of indoor plants:

Or the hairy louse is one of the most dangerous and common insects that attacks home flowers. Is different great variety species: seaside, citrus, cactus, bristly, grape, root. These are quite large (up to 5 mm) insects, the body of which is covered with a powdery powdery coating of white or cream shades. They are quite easy to notice: as a rule, pests gather in colonies on leaves and shoots, leaving behind honeydew (honeydew), similar to lumps of cotton wool.

Root bugs are even more dangerous. While its counterparts are easily found on leaves and stems, this type of hairy louse lives underground, on the roots. The plant, at first glance, is withering for no reason, and its bewildered owner is trying to take some measures to save it by increasing watering or feeding. And only the most experienced flower growers They guess to take the flower out of the pot and find there, as if sprinkled with flour, a colony of insects.

Folk remedies:

• Manually collecting insects and washing the plant in the shower.
• Treatment of leaves and shoots with a soap solution (1 tsp crushed solid soap per 1 liter of water or 15 ml liquid soap per 1 liter of water).
• Treating leaves and shoots with alcohol or alcohol tincture (you need to wipe the flower with a piece of cotton wool soaked in alcohol). Use with caution, after first trying it on one leaf, and only on non-hairy plants!
• Root scale insects: complete replacement soil, washing the roots in water, the temperature of which is about 50°C

Chemicals: “Aktara”, “Aktellik”, “Tanrek”, “Confidor”, “Karbofos”.

The damage caused to the plant by scale insects and false scale insects is enormous: with the help of a large mouth, insects stick to leaves or shoots, extracting everything from them nutrients, and not only adults, but also young larvae are harmful. The plant cannot regain its strength, turns yellow and withers, and in especially advanced cases dies. As in the case of mealybugs, a fungus grows on micro-wounds formed from insect bites, which further harms the flower.

Perhaps not a single one can resist the invasion of the aggressor. home plant, and the insect often settles not only on leaves and stems, but also on exotic fruits (lemon, calamondin, kumquat). The fight against the pest cannot be put off; measures should be taken immediately to save the green pet.

Folk remedies:

• Careful manual collection of insects, cleaning all parts of plants with a toothbrush.
• Washing the flower under a hot (about 50°C) shower.
• Meticulous treatment of all above-ground parts of the plant with a soap solution.

Chemicals: “Aktara”, “Konfidor”, “Iskra Zolotaya”, “Aktellik”, “Inta-vir”.

Unlike previous species, it is a very small insect, the maximum size of which is 1 mm. Mites are often invisible to the naked eye, but they are revealed by the silvery web that appears on the leaves, shoots and other parts of the plant, and by light puncture dots on the leaves. There are plenty of types of spider mites that can settle on a houseplant: common, red, Pacific, however, they are almost indistinguishable from each other.

The saddest thing is that once a mite has fallen on a plant, it is almost impossible to remove it completely; some part of the population will remain in the soil and appear as soon as the green pet weakens.

Some indoor views those with succulent leaves are especially susceptible to mites; these are, for example, all domestic citrus fruits, mini-roses in pots, and ficus. However, any domestic crop can become infected, regardless of species. Spider mites should be dealt with immediately, at the first sign of danger, this is the only way to save a diseased plant from death.

Folk remedies:

• Removing the most infected leaves.
• Spraying the plant with infusions of basil, hogweed, creeping tenacious, pyrethrum or Persian chamomile.
• Treatment of the above-ground green part with Fairy's solution. Dishwashing liquid is mixed with a small amount water and whipped into a thick foam, which must be applied to the leaves. After 30 minutes, the solution can be washed off. Before processing, cover the soil with a piece of polyethylene.
• Spraying leaves with solution essential oil tea tree.

Chemical preparations: “Aktellik”, “Fitoverm”, “Aktofit”, “Apollo”.

This insect with an oblong body and elongated abdomen can reach 3 mm, and its color varies from light yellow to black. Amazing fact: some larvae of these insects are born already pregnant, and it is not at all necessary to mate to reproduce their own kind. And adult winged individuals are excellent at flying. Thus, the pest population can grow endlessly, capturing more and more new territories.

Folk remedies:

Chemicals: “Fitoverm”, “Vermitek”, “Aktara”, “Confidor”, “Inta-vir”, “Tanrek”.

It is not found very often on house plants. The large (up to 2 mm) greenish insect is clearly visible even to the naked eye. The main part of the colony is wingless individuals with a thick translucent abdomen and thin, long legs and antennae. However, there are also flying specimens, whose main task is to mate and capture neighboring territories. Most often, greenhouse, peach or nymphal aphids damage indoor flowers.

Folk remedies:

• First of all, the aphids must be washed off with a shower. It does not adhere well to the plant and is easily washed away with streams of water.
• A solution of liquid green or laundry soap (20 grams of green soap per 1 liter of water, 1 tsp of crushed laundry soap per 1 liter of water).
• Aphids are repelled by strong-smelling plants, such as geraniums, standing next to the affected specimen.
• Spraying with citrus infusion (4 tbsp zest per 1 liter of water)

Chemicals: “Tanrek”, “Iskra Zolotaya”, “Aktellik”, “Aktara”, “Konfidor”

Or fungus gnats are, at first glance, ordinary midges, small (up to 40 mm) black flying insects. They are more likely to annoy a person, flying randomly around the apartment. However, not all so simple. Indeed, adult individuals do not harm the plant, but their larvae living in the soil feed on tender roots, undermining the health of the green pet. Actively mating, flies lay future offspring in wet warm earth, which is an excellent environment for the development of worm larvae. Most often, in middle lane In our country, you can find three varieties of winged pests: brasidia, sciara, licoriella.

The fight against them is complicated by the fact that the worms devouring the roots are not visible on the soil surface, and the midges flying around the bowls with the plant, in the opinion of inexperienced owners of home flowers, do not pose a threat. However, a competent gardener, only seeing black flies, immediately understands that the plant is being attacked by sciarids. To make sure that a fungus gnat has appeared on your green pet, you need to remove top part substrate - the larvae are located shallowly.

Folk remedies:

• The best environment for the development of sciarids is moist, acidic and stagnant soil. The use of food waste (residues of tea leaves, shells, potato peelings) as plant nutrition.
• Drying the top layer of the substrate will help destroy the clutch of eggs.

Chemicals: “Aktara”, “Inta-vir”, “Mukhoed”. To combat adult insects, sprays against flying insects should be used: “Neo-dichlorvos”, “Raptor”, etc.

- this beautiful name called a dangerous and very unpleasant insect that harms green spaces. The greenhouse whitefly, a small (up to 3 mm) yellowish flying moth, is especially dangerous for indoor crops. Its body and wings are covered with a white powdery coating, and, in general, the insect resembles a moth.

Damage is caused by both larvae and adults. The insect feeds on the sap of the plant, piercing the leaf with a sharp proboscis, and secretes sticky honeydew. The weakened flower withers, dries up, chlorosis develops on the leaves, and honeydew clogs the pores. Leaves and young shoots, unable to withstand the attack, gradually die off. The result is obvious - insatiable aggressors destroy the plant completely.

Many indoor crops are susceptible to pest attack: hibiscus, fuchsia, gardenia, chlorophytum, dracaena. But geranium suffers especially badly from whiteflies; the flower cannot be saved even by a strong smell that repels all other insects.

The whitefly is very tenacious and often even a single treatment with insecticides does not help. When dealing with it, you need to be patient and, if necessary, repeat the procedure again, changing the active substance.

Folk remedies:

• Before starting treatment, the plant should be washed in the shower. Some insects will be destroyed under jets of water.
• Fumigators against mosquitoes. They cope well with adult flying individuals.
• Green soap solution (see above for concentration)
• Sprinkling the top layer of soil in the pot with ash.
• Fly tape or sticky traps.

Chemicals: “Aktara”, “Golden Spark”, “Prestige”, “Commander”, “Aktellik”.

Other pests (centipedes, slugs, snails, nematodes) on indoor plants are much less common than those listed above. They need to be dealt with in the same way, using effective folk remedies or systemic insecticides.

Chemicals for controlling insects on potted plants

I would like to pay special attention to drugs whose main purpose is to destroy aggressor insects. Their assortment is very rich and a novice florist cannot always figure out what exactly should be purchased.

Below is a summary table of the most popular insecticides suitable for use on indoor plants. The + and - signs indicate the effectiveness of various drugs on certain types of pests.

When using chemicals to control insects, you should strictly adhere to some rules:

And finally, a little useful tips from experienced flower growers:

• The rules for caring for plants should be strictly followed. An unfavorable environment will undermine the health of green pets, and weakened organisms are known to have poor resistance to attack by pests.