So that everything grows in the garden
It's grass for you, boxes full for us. I'm taking it away, I'm taking it away. I select, I select. It's a gain for me, a loss for you. Amen.
They read it in the spring, in the morning in someone else’s garden, in the evening in their own, on the new month. Where they read, there will be no harvest, but you will have a good one.
This text is an introductory fragment.
From the book Conspiracies Siberian healer. Issue 04 author Stepanova Natalya IvanovnaTo lend money (to give a loan) Carry a handkerchief under your arm for three days, and when you go to ask for money, wipe your face with this handkerchief, standing on the threshold, and say to yourself: Lord my God Christ, My Angel has brought the petition. My Lord, You said:
From the book Conspiracies of a Siberian healer. Issue 04 author Stepanova Natalya IvanovnaSo that everything grows well in the garden. In clear weather, so that the stars are visible in the sky, go around the garden crosswise and whisper: The earth gave birth, the earth rewarded, the Earth enriched, Mother of God, save. Amen.
From the book Removing damage and the evil eye by whispering. Prayers and spells author Vinogradova Ekaterina A.A spell to make everything grow in the garden. In clear weather, so that the stars are visible in the sky, go around the garden crosswise and whisper: The earth gave birth, the earth rewarded, the earth enriched, Mother of God, save. Amen. Gently loosen the soil in your garden beds and lovingly offer them to your
From the book Conspiracies of a Siberian healer. Issue 07 author Stepanova Natalya IvanovnaAn urn with ashes in the garden When trouble happens, people lose from grief and despair common sense. They think that if they bury the ashes loved one in the garden or vegetable garden, then he will be closer to them. Then, when the pain has dulled somewhat, the time of doubts and fears comes.
author Stepanova Natalya IvanovnaTo prevent your bones from hurting after working in the garden In the spring, after working in the garden, many people complain of aching bones and joints. To avoid this, do this. Having dug up the garden, bow to four sides and say: Mother Earth Niva, give me back my strength. I you
From the book of 7000 conspiracies of a Siberian healer author Stepanova Natalya IvanovnaSo that the actor is popular (so that people don’t dote on their souls, don’t see enough, don’t hear enough) They say when entering a pool, river, lake, etc.: I am a singer-queen, I am a golden marten, I am a dear sable, a nightingale singer. Whoever looks at me will not be surprised, an asterisk to all the stars, to all the nightingales
From the book of 7000 conspiracies of a Siberian healer author Stepanova Natalya IvanovnaFor those who go to plant in the garden Before leaving the house, step on your left foot with your right foot and say: I will give to the earth, and the earth will give to me. And no one will stop me from doing this. Amen.
From the book of 7000 conspiracies of a Siberian healer author Stepanova Natalya IvanovnaFor growth in the garden In clear weather, when the stars are visible in the sky, walk crosswise around the garden and whisper: The earth gave birth, the earth rewarded, the earth enriched. Mother of God, save. Amen.
From the book of 7000 conspiracies of a Siberian healer author Stepanova Natalya IvanovnaFrom theft in the garden When you finish planting, walk around the garden crosswise, saying: Lord, protect my garden, put your cut on the thief. Walk, thief, not with your feet; take, thief, not with your hands. Whoever enters my land will take fear into the heart of that thief, he will get nothing from my ridge
From the book Book of love spells and conspiracies for all occasions author Stepanova Natalya IvanovnaTROUBLES IN THE GARDEN AND VEGETABLE VEGETABLE For those who go to plant in the vegetable garden, before leaving the house, step on your left foot with your right foot and say: I will give to the earth, and the earth will give to me. And no one will stop me from doing this. Amen. For those who are going to mow. When you get ready to mow, place the scythe next to the fence, but this way,
From the book A Course in Miracles by Wapnick KennethB. To have peace, teach peace, to learn it 1. All believers in separation are accompanied by an primordial fear of retribution and loneliness. They all believe in rejection and attack; that's all they perceive, teach and learn. These crazy ideas are clearly the result of disconnection and
From the book Conspiracies of a Siberian healer. Issue 01 author Stepanova Natalya IvanovnaPlot against pests in the garden To prevent pests from spoiling the future harvest, do not forget to read the special plot: Don’t hit, worms, don’t eat, sowing cornfields, sowing goblins, sowing winter crops. Gray worm and white worm, Small harm and great harm, Go to the west of the sun, To the green
From the book Water teaches you how to manage people and get what you want from them. Slanders about water author Stefania SisterA conspiracy so that your family will be attracted to you, respect you, have many friends. You will need: well water, a container with wide edges like a ladle, a church candle. Time of the ritual: evening Place: indoors Moon phase: third, fourth Suitable days of the week:
by Luzina LadaSo that grass and ants grow in your garden, we have boxes full of them. I'm taking it away, I'm taking it away. I select, I select. It's a gain for me, a loss for you. Amen. Read in the spring, in the morning in someone else’s garden, in the evening in your own, on the new month. Where they read - there will be no harvest, but you will have
From the book Conspiracies, amulets, rituals by Luzina LadaFor work in the garden, Lord help me! If only the Lord would allow the earth to give birth in such a way that both I and people could have it. Give birth, O God, to everyone’s share! Pronounced when sowing.* * *Give birth, O God, to a cibul, like my doula! When sowing onions.* * *When planting cabbage, the housewife wraps the nursery pot,
From the book 300 protective spells for success and good luck author Stepanova Natalya IvanovnaFrom theft in the garden When you finish planting, walk around the garden crosswise, saying: Lord, protect my garden, Put your shortcut on the thief. Walk, thief, not with your feet, Take, thief, not with your hands. Whoever enters my land, Fear will take that thief to his heart, He will take nothing from my ridge
Every gardener and gardener dreams of fertile soil on which to create a garden, beds, and flower beds. But with time fertile layer The soil is becoming thinner, and diseases and pests are infesting it. How to correct the situation, read our material.
The soil shows its fatigue in different ways. It can turn to dust, become covered with moss, or even rust. But for every problem there are ways to solve it. The main thing is not to wait for your yields to be equal to the planting material used.
If you have been growing plants with a shallow root system in the same place for a long time and skimping on fertilizing, then there is nothing surprising in the thinning of the fertile layer. After all, your green pets probably used everything useful material on growth and development, and you did not apply enough fertilizers to normalize the situation.
What to do?
Try adding compost to the soil (3 buckets per 1 sq.m.) before digging. This organic fertilizer can significantly improve the quality of “tired” soil by providing plants with the necessary microelements.
Another great way is green fertilizers (green manure). They can be sown between main crops or in vacant areas after the crop has already been harvested. It is best to select green manure in accordance with the needs of the plants that you plan to plant in this area. For example, lupine will be a good predecessor for tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, eggplants or zucchini. Mustard will help fight nematodes and prepare the soil for planting potatoes or winter crops. It’s a good idea to sow rapeseed before carrots or beets, as it will serve additional protection from viral-bacterial rot.
And the most suitable green manures for improving “tired” soil are, perhaps, legumes (peas, beans, alfalfa). Nodule bacteria on their roots enrich the soil with nitrogen. And perennial legumes with a powerful root system also extract useful substances from the deep layers of the soil to the surface.
If you do not plan to harvest legumes, but decide to use them as green manure, do not mow the plants before flowering, since nodules form on their roots during this period.
And don't forget about crop rotation. After all, as you know, different plants receive nutrients from different layers of the soil. Therefore if upper layer has become thin and has lost fertility, plant plants with a strong root system.
Let's say you are a conservative to the core and prefer to plant traditional vegetables in the beds (like cucumbers, tomatoes, cabbage or zucchini), which require a large amount nutrients. At the same time, you avoid fertilizers, believing that the harvest should be environmentally friendly, you forget about mulching, because your grandparents didn’t do that. But he’s not averse to digging up the soil properly and pumping up his muscles at the same time. And therefore it is not surprising that there is no time fertile land in your garden, after a few years, it begins to absorb moisture poorly and scatters under gusts of wind.
What to do?
You can, of course, replace the top layer of soil, but this is quite expensive.
Try starting with fertilizers. Add 2-3 buckets of compost per 1 square meter, covering it to a depth of 10 cm. This will make the soil heavier and at the same time make it more nutritious.
Pay attention to the type of soil in your area. After all, some types of soil, for example sandy, dry out quickly, retaining almost no moisture, and therefore require special care. It is not recommended to dig them up more than once a year.
To prevent the soil from becoming dusty, mulch it with available materials, for example, young grass, straw, compost, sawdust, bark, and freshly cut weeds. Mulch will not only protect the soil from further erosion. While decomposing, it will work as organic fertilizer, gradually releasing nutrients to the crop.
Be careful when mulching the soil with fresh organic matter. IN large quantities it can destroy your green pets.
Hard, wet soil that is difficult to push a shovel into may be a consequence of improper care. For example, if deep digging clay soils, in which heavy loam appears on the surface, occurs in rainy weather, then a water- and moisture-proof crust may form on top of the ground.
What to do?
Sometimes like is cured by like, so before the onset of cold weather the soil can be lightly dug up to a depth of 10 cm. Experienced gardeners They believe that if you simply dig up, but do not break or turn over clods of earth, then during the winter they will freeze properly and become loose.
If there is clay on the soil surface, you can add sand for digging (1 bucket per 1 sq.m).
It is also worth attracting earthworms to the site. You can, of course, dig them up from your neighbor. But if earthworms are uncomfortable, they are unlikely to stay in your beds.
These invertebrates enjoy decaying organic matter. Therefore, it would be a good idea to mulch the soil around the plants, for example, with rotted compost.
You can feed your green pets with dandelion infusion, which will also attract earthworms. To do this, 1 kg of dandelion shoots and roots must be poured into 10 liters of water, and after two weeks, strain and dilute with water 1:10.
Often the acidity of the soil changes simply as a result of watering. If the water is soft, the acidity of the soil, as a rule, increases, and if it is hard, it decreases. The acidity level is also affected by the plants grown and the fertilizers applied.
What to do?
IN in this case Liming the soil helps.
There are a number of plants that do not develop very well in freshly limed soil, so it is advisable to normalize the acidity at least a year before planting them. Such capricious crops include:
Alkaline soils are not very common. Sometimes increased content alkalis are a consequence of incorrect agricultural practices. This happens, for example, if you are too carried away by deoxidizing the soil.
Soils with a pH above 7.5 prevent plants from absorbing iron. As a result, your green pets develop less well, which is usually easy to notice by yellowing leaves.
What to do?
You can acidify the soil by mulching with high-moor peat, pine needles or coniferous tree bark.
Mulching also prevents moisture evaporation, weed germination and wind erosion of the soil. It is best to do this in spring or autumn after removing weeds, applying fertilizer and surface loosening.
You cannot mulch the soil before plants sown in open ground have sprung up.
As popular wisdom says, “it’s better to under-salt than to over-salt.” If whitish salt traces appear on the soil, most often this indicates improper feeding of plants with mineral fertilizers.
What to do?
Salt, as you know, dissolves in water. After harvesting, try watering the soil deeply several times. There should be plenty of water - up to 15 liters per 1 sq.m., but it is important not to overdo it so that your area does not turn into a dirty puddle.
As soon as the salt goes to the lower layers, mulch the soil with peat.
Insects, bacteria and harmful fungi do not sleep in the summer, populating the site at an accelerated pace. And they sleep in winter - including in the soil, so that next season start the battle for the harvest with you again.
What to do?
The easiest way to control insects overwintering on a site is to treat the soil with insecticides. Since most often a potential threat in the form of eggs and larvae of pests is hidden in the ground, you need to pay attention in the store Special attention for larvicides that destroy larvae and caterpillars, as well as ovicides that affect the eggs of insects and mites.
Mechanical methods of struggle will not be superfluous. For example, if late autumn dig up the soil in the beds (without breaking the lumps), the pest larvae will become prey for birds. And some insects simply will not be able to burrow into the ground again and overwinter.
Experienced gardeners believe that if you sprinkle the soil with an EM solution when loosening, this will help weaken harmful bacteria.
It is also important to remove fallen leaves, as pest larvae often overwinter under them.
In order to cope with diseases, there are also a number of drugs. For example, Alirin B is a beneficial soil microflora designed to suppress fungal diseases. The drug is compatible with many insecticides, biological products, plant growth regulators and fungicides.
Not only metals can “rust,” but also soil and even plants.
If you use hard water for irrigation big amount iron, sometimes it appears on the surface of the soil and between the veins of plants. However, a fungus can also cause the appearance of a red coating on your beds.
What to do?
Usually in such cases, soil free of plants is spilled with boiling water. If this does not help, in the fall you can also use the drug Fitosporin-M (according to the instructions) or its analogue, which also inhibits the effect of pathogenic fungi.
Do not dissolve biological products in tap water, as the chlorine contained in it will kill beneficial bacteria. It is best to use melt or rain water.
In the future, it is important to water your green pets only with settled or soft rainwater.
Moss can appear in garden beds, flower beds, and even on the lawn. Most often the reason for this is high humidity, excessive shading, as well as dense or acidified soil.
What to do?
We told you how to deal with the last two problems just above. And to normalize soil moisture, you can dig shallow drainage channels along the perimeter of the area into which excess water will drain.
It is also important to consider that moss, like any weed, primarily invades free areas. So if vegetables do not want to grow under the canopy of a branchy tree, plant there plants that tolerate shade well, for example, forget-me-nots, ferns or hydrangeas.
Moss is usually removed from garden beds. mechanically. And if it tries to take over your lawn, slowly but surely displacing the grass, you can use ferrous sulfate (90 ml per 20 liters of water). This amount of solution can treat 300 square meters of area.
If your dacha is a place for relaxation, and not for hard work in the garden beds, try to transfer moss from the category of enemies to allies. Moss gardens are extremely popular today in landscape design. So if you're not ready to say goodbye to an old tree that's shading a large area, and you don't want to dig up the soil while contaminating it with herbicides, just show a little imagination. And moss will certainly give your garden paths, as well as rockeries with a unique flavor of antiquity and tranquility.
The earth is not a dead substance that exists on its own. Each handful of it is filled with many living organisms that directly affect the harvest. If you properly care for the soil from the very beginning, apply the necessary fertilizers, and observe crop rotation, then you will not need our advice on how to restore soil fertility.
It would seem that potting soil is much easier to improve and disinfect than in a garden bed - the volume is small, you can control literally every centimeter of the soil. You just have to get a little wrong with the proportions and that’s it, goodbye to the harvest. IN open ground You can sow green manure, add stinking manure, pour boiling water on it, and potassium permanganate - even if you screw it up a little, the soil will be restored. There is no room for error with potting soil...
Soil disinfection- this is not for the lazy. But if you don’t take at least basic measures, you can ruin all your work. Where does the soil in bags come from? Often, this is waste soil from greenhouses, sifted and enriched with peat, mineral fertilizer and ballast fillers. Often unidentifiable herbs sprout from it, but this can be survived... And this soil is also “enriched” with pathogenic bacteria, mold spores, aphid larvae and other bugs.
Potting soil can be disinfected in a number of ways, which will be discussed in this article.
My grandfather, a winegrower and gardener with 50 years of experience, treats the soil for seedlings in 3 stages: calcination and adding ash and yeast to the soil. He simply fries the garden soil in a huge frying pan, stirring occasionally and moistening it with a spray bottle. Mix a three-liter jar of soil with a heaped teaspoon, then add yeast. described in detail what is what about using ordinary yeast for the needs of a garden on the windowsill. Of course, this takes up precious time, but it guarantees the absence of fungi in the soil and the death of any living creatures. Ash is a fertilizer and an additional sterilizer, and yeast populates the soil with its colonies and helps the plant feed, enriching it with nitrogen. This method is not the only one, nor is it the most convenient.
Another option roasting in the oven(suitable for a small volume of soil): pour the wet soil into the baking sleeve. Bake for 40 minutes at 180 degrees. I think it's a great idea.
Place a sieve on a pan of boiling water, place a layer of gauze, add soil and cover with a lid. You can stir the soil occasionally. The procedure lasts from 20 minutes to 1.5 hours, depending on the amount of soil. After steaming, the soil should breathe for some time. Add yeast or any available bacterial fertilizer to the warm soil. It is effective to steam the soil in several passes in small portions.
The most popular biological fungicides: Fitosporin, Barrier, Barrier, Fitop, Integral, Baktofit, Agat, Planzir, Alirin B, Trichodermin. All of them have a non-chemical effect on fungi and pathogenic bacteria - the “right” bacteria. For the first time, I used the Ukrainian analogue of Fitosporin - Phytocid M. I planted mini-tomato seeds in the soil treated with it. In general, biological fungicides are praised by flower growers. The main thing is to strictly follow the instructions. It is written on the packaging that the diluted Phytocid should be stored for no more than a day, but I got a three-liter jar and I have been watering all my plants with this solution for the second week now. The watercress is delighted with this watering; I have never had such lush harvests!
Write about chemical fungicides necessary, but not used. At least for our windowsill gardens. I will write only about those drugs that have hazard class 4 (low-hazard substance).
Albite. The composition contains terpene acids, extracts from soil bacteria and microelements. Available in paste form. Prevents root rot from developing powdery mildew, brown rot, and other nasty things. It is considered a biological fungicide with a chemical effect.
Potassium permangantsovka(potassium permanganate). A long-familiar but ineffective method of soil disinfection. It also becomes a potassium fertilizer.
There are a great many drugs of this kind, but they are hardly suitable for us.
Copper sulfate, iron sulfate. They disinfect and at the same time inhibit plant growth. They don't suit us.
And about the last resort for today - mustard powder! Effective against fungi, bacteria, viruses, thrips, nematodes. Loosens the soil and stimulates plant growth. Apply to the soil as follows: per 5 liters of soil, a tablespoon of mustard powder. Combine with nitrogen fertilizer.
Update 11/29/2016
Since writing this article, I have become much more attentive to the sources of information on which I base my material. Despite the fact that disinfecting potting soil is traditional for post-Soviet countries, it is not practiced anywhere else. The application of biofertilizers with effective microorganisms (Baikal, Fitosporin, etc.) has no proven effectiveness in field conditions, although own experience(biased) there is a result. According to some data described in the article about EO preparations, homemade infusions with effective microorganisms are better than industrial mixtures (infusions with banana peels, sauerkraut juice, yeast).
There is so much information that in it you will definitely find something that will respond to your inner personal desire and decision, because as they say: be sure to listen to all the advice and only accept independent decision. Once the plot has been purchased, it means there are already plans. Plan your plantings: where there are apple trees - nuts, where there are bushes - berries, where there are paths, where there are flowers, where there are greenhouses, where there are beds, where there is a lawn, where there is a recreation area. And based on this, grow your soil. In the literal sense, it must be created. If you can buy rotted manure, it's The best decision. If you can buy fresh manure cheaply, then you can, let it sit there and ripen if the smell doesn’t bother you. If you are not prepared for the presence of manure, then organic matter that will fluff up the heavy soil can easily be obtained from sawdust, if you have them and black lowland peat in the area. As we wrote earlier, a lot depends on the characteristics of the site; if it is not flooded with water, then there is no need to raise it much, otherwise it will dry out in the summer. You can collect the mown grass in a heap, or you can select a certain area where you will dump it all summer, level it, trample it, and in the spring you will dig it up and the soil will be more pliable. Cover some part of the meadow with something dense and heavy: old carpet, linoleum, carton boxes They’ll fit, you’ll dig it up in the spring, it’ll be easy. You will also have to buy land; you can use it to fill the beds made from any material: boards or slate. The purchased land is not fertile; it will take you two years to improve it. If there are bodies of water nearby, bring rotted reeds from there; if there is a forest nearby, then get leaves and branches from there; a chopper will always come in handy. Instead of sand, I bought expanded clay, even the coarse fraction is suitable, moss from the forest: sphagnum and just green, I bought birch charcoal, it’s not cheap, but I really liked it in practice, read about such a concept as TERRA PRETA, you’ll gain more knowledge. And we water all this abundantly and systematically with humates, they are now available. Waste can be composted, but now I make some furrows, like potato furrows, and immediately put kitchen waste in them, cover them with grass, sawdust, earth, and everything is processed in the soil, no need to drag it out. compost heap. You can water it with a urea solution or a composting accelerator. Oats will help out: dig up as much of the earth as you can, sprinkle the oats generously, it’s better to lightly cover it with sawdust and water it, or you can move it with a rake and water it, add spring fertilizers, or just urea for better growth. Leave it in the winter, you don’t even need to mow it, and you won’t recognize your land. Good luck!!! I hope that at least something is useful!
