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Diameters of external PVC sewer pipes. Sewer plastic pipes: diameters, prices. Prices for fecal hoses

Repairing absolutely any bathroom involves replacing plumbing fixtures, pipes and, of course, tiles. It has a number of advantages that are superior to other finishing materials:

  1. High-quality tiles can serve their owners for many years;
  2. This material practically does not require careful maintenance - no effort is required to clean it and you just need to wipe the tiles damp cloth with cleanser;
  3. A dense layer of glaze protects it from various caustic chemicals;
  4. Laying tiles is easy and absolutely safe.

Many people do not know how to properly lay tiles in the bathroom and are afraid to begin this process on their own. However, you should leave all doubts and carefully, slowly begin laying it. It is worth saying that before performing all the work, it is necessary to clearly calculate the amount of material and prepare the tools that may be needed at any time: brush, putty knife, roulette, ruler,level, roller, foam sponge, tile cutter And drill, and special crosses for seams.

If you decide to lay the tiles yourself, then you need to follow the technological process that has been proven over the years.

How to get started?

First you need to measure the walls in the bathroom and calculate the coverage area, and then purchase tiles of the size and design you like. To get started you will need:

A specially created glue that is ready for use, or it is a dry mixture that is diluted with water before use;

For correct installation necessary use level, tape measure and ruler;

To prepare the glue, you will need a bucket or other similar product, and to stir it, you will need a high-speed electric drill with a special attachment.

  • For processing seams on final stage work will require jointing;
  • Notched spatulas for applying glue;
  • A tile cutter, and if you don’t have one, you can use a very simple advice: place the tile in water, and after a while, move it with a special knife in the right place;
  • Synthetic sponge;
  • Moisture-resistant primer;
  • Waterproofing;
  • To process the edges of cut tiles, you need a corundum block;
  • Plastic crosses so that the seam is perfectly even.


Preparatory work for laying tiles yourself

IN technological process a very important role is played by the preparation of the walls. For the coating to look beautiful, the surface to be laid must be well leveled. To do this, you need to complete a series of preparatory work.

First of all, the old coating is removed, even if it is attached very securely and its removal will require time and some physical effort. In this case, the risk that the tile will fall off will be minimal.

The next stage is cleaning the walls from small elements and dust, as well as checking their verticality level. Most bathroom walls are uneven, so they need to be plastered. Experts recommend that before starting the leveling process, treat the working surface with an emulsion of rubber and bitumen. This way you will protect the walls from excess moisture, improve adhesion to the tiles, and prevent the development of fungus.

If possible, you need to let the plaster dry thoroughly, which will take about two weeks.

Final preparatory stage, but not the last in importance, - coating walls with primer resistant to high humidity. This coating will fill all the pores on the working surface, promoting good adhesion to the adhesive.

Mistakes when laying tiles. Video

Laying tiles in the bathroom with your own hands

When the wall is ready, markings must be applied to it. This can be done using planks (thickness no more than 2.5 cm, width 5 cm), a level and a plumb line. Place the tile on a table or floor, install a strip underneath it, and mark the seams and joints. Next, hang a plumb line in the upper corner of the wall, indicating the place where the installation will begin. Carry out this procedure in all corners of the walls that are supposed to be tiled.

Install the strip with the applied markings using a level (horizontally) below the marking point. Fasten it securely. Do the same procedure with the other plank, only installing it vertically using a level. Pin. The resulting angle should be the starting angle for laying the tiles.

The process of laying tiles on the wall

When the wall is prepared, the planks are installed, you can begin treating the wall with an adhesive solution. This is best done with a spatula, trying to apply the glue evenly.

Advice: to prevent the glue from drying out prematurely, the wall area processed at a time should not be more than 0.5 m in length and 0.5 m in width.

The glue is applied, you can proceed directly to installation, which must begin from the starting angle obtained by the planks. During the installation process, try to apply force towards the floor. If necessary, the tiles can be moved over fresh adhesive for leveling.

Advice: After laying each tile, check how it is laid using a level.

The rest of the tiles are laid in a horizontal row. Use plastic cross-shaped spacers to create gaps. The top row is laid only after the bottom row is laid.

To cut tiles at home, a manual tile cutter is usually used. Easy to install using this tool required size and pruning is done.

Grouting joints

The final stage of installation is grouting the joints. For this purpose, a special solution is used, it is applied with a spatula with a rubber nozzle. The solution must be applied carefully, without leaving free space in the cracks. Its excess can be easily removed with a soft, damp sponge. After the grouting is completed, let the solution cool and “polish” the surface with a soft cloth.

Laying tiles on a wall in a wooden house

Laying tiles in wooden house possible in several ways:

  • For cement. The wall is treated with an antiseptic to prevent rotting and covered with a layer of roofing material to protect it from cracking. The area of ​​the wall prepared for this type of finishing is sheathed with slats on which a mesh (metal) mesh is hung. A layer of cement is applied, the surface is plastered and after it dries, installation is carried out;
  • On drywall with increased moisture resistance. The wall is covered with plasterboard, carefully puttied, and after drying, liquid primer is applied. Next, you can lay the tiles in the manner described above.

​Video of proper tile laying

In this material I will tell you how to lay tiles in the bathroom with your own hands. It would seem like this small room, what is there to tell. But in fact, there are many nuances that we could talk about for hours. For example, an inexhaustible topic for discussion could be some new collection of tiles that can be posted on non-standard combination, or using unusual design solutions when laying out.



I will tell you how to lay tiles on a wall in a bathroom using the example of the Cayman collection from the Ukrainian manufacturer Golden Tile. It is made in black and white colors with an imitation of patent leather texture. I saw her in some photos on the Internet and I liked her. In addition, black and white colors are classic and will remain relevant even after decades. The cost of 1 square meter of backgrounds is 700 rubles/m².
The dimensions of the main wall are not very large - only 180 cm. Considering that the tiles measure 25x40 cm, this is 7 whole rows and about 3-4 cm left.

Quick navigation through the article

Preparation

Initially, the bathroom was empty with straightened walls. If on your walls old finish– it must be completely removed; if the walls are uneven, they must be leveled. Sometimes this stage takes longer than tiling the bathroom itself. But according to the technology, you need to do it exactly so that the layer of glue on the wall is uniform everywhere and does not exceed the thickness specified by the manufacturer.

First, the walls are generously covered with primer. deep penetration using a roller.

Then the bathtub itself is installed exactly horizontally. This is important, because the laying of tiles in the bathroom will come from the bathroom. All types of bathtubs have a slight bottom slope for draining water, so the side should not be strictly horizontal.

Bath installation


The steel bath has 2 big drawbacks– loud noise when drawing water and rapid cooling. These problems can be easily solved by applying to the bottom of the bathtub polyurethane foam. Before doing this, do not forget to assemble and secure the siphon and legs to the bathtub in advance.

After installing a 170 cm bathtub, a 10 cm gap remained in the wall. Therefore, the remaining 10 cm had to be sealed with a homemade shelf made of several bars screwed to the wall, which were covered with plasterboard on top. There is no need to worry about water getting in; after lining, the base will be reliably protected.


To continue the even installation from the bathroom level around the perimeter of the entire room, you need to attach a temporary profile shelf to the wall along the level.


The floor will have a cut of half a tile, since according to the standard the height of the bathtub from the finished floor to the side should be 60 cm, but our wall tiles have a height of 40 cm.

Also, before laying tiles in the bathroom, be sure to run silicone plumbing sealant along the wall so that not a drop of moisture penetrates there. Read about that in the article about grouting.

Layout

To plan the layout, you need to decide in advance on the size and collection of tiles. To avoid unnecessary problems, it should fit the size of your bathroom as well as possible, at least on the front wall. Unsightly narrow cuts will greatly spoil the appearance of the cladding.

To decide how to properly lay tiles in the bathroom, I plan the layout on paper or in the Sketch UP 3D editor. I create several options and choose the best one.

If we imagine a wall with a width of 180 cm and a tile of 25 cm, then we get 7 whole rows and a narrow trim of 4 cm (including seams). And even if we start laying from the center, there will be 2 cm left and right.

The feature of this layout was the black corner tiles that could not be cut, they had to be uniform. Fortunately, the Cayman collection has friezes (borders) 3 cm wide, which allow you to solve problems with trimming.

In the Cayman collection, floor tiles have glossy surface and dimensions 30x30 cm. The distance from the screen to the opposite wall is 93 cm, but a trim of 3 cm will look ugly. We kill 2 birds with one stone: replace it with a similar black one floor tiles, but with a matte rough surface.

Laying order

Most the best way styling in my opinion - from the bathroom level. This creates the most reliable waterproof seam (silicone + grout) + the edge of the side will be slightly recessed into the cladding. This option is also more beautiful, because you are guaranteed not to get a narrow strip above the side if you were laying the tiles from the floor.

The procedure for laying tiles in the bathroom is as follows:

  • First we tile everything above the level of the bathroom to the ceiling. The first row should not go straight along the side of the bathroom; you need to retreat about 2 mm (the thickness of the cross) in order to then rub this seam. There will be a suspended ceiling on top, so we leave space for installation plastic baguette along the perimeter. Stretch ceiling can be installed at any height, so we don’t have to worry about adjusting trims near the ceiling - we make them locally.
  • Then we lay the remaining rows below the level of the bathroom in the rest of the room.
  • We make a frame under the bathtub and veneer it. It will be made of high-quality rigid metal frame covered with plasterboard. Ceramic tile has a lot of weight, so you shouldn’t save money and buy a cheap thin-walled “foil” profile, it’s better to take a branded one Knauf profile or do wooden frame from bars.
  • And at the end – we prime concrete base and lay the tiles on the floor. In some cases, this stage may come first.

Laying

We dilute the tile adhesive using a hammer drill with an attachment and begin laying. The adhesive is applied to the mounting base of the tile using a notched trowel or comb. In this particular case, a spatula with 6 mm teeth is used.

To obtain maximum adhesion, you can additionally coat the walls with a thin layer “to strip off”, but the speed of work will decrease. Since the walls are smooth, after pressing the tiles we will get a thin, uniform layer that will not “lead” it when it dries.

After applying the glue, press the tile and press it with small wavy movements “back and forth” to distribute the glue inside and get rid of voids. This is much more convenient and reliable than tapping it with a rubber mallet.

It is better to lay each horizontal row with tiles from one pack, since almost always domestic producers violate the calibration. Because of this, the tiles may differ by several millimeters, and this is critical with 2 mm joints.

Since I have every vertical row comprises different types tiles, I cannot use this rule, but before laying, I divided all the tiles by size into several groups (small, medium, large).

Plastic crosses are inserted between the tiles. Their thickness is selected according to the size of the tile and its quality so that they can compensate for the discrepancies in the seams. Also for compensation uneven seams Plastic wedges may come in handy.

Covering the screen under the bathtub

The frame is assembled as follows:


Grout

All that remains is to sand the seams a day after installation. Before doing this, you need to remove any remaining glue from the seams. We dilute the mixture and apply it inside the seams with a rubber spatula.

After 20-30 minutes, the seams will harden a little and you will need to wash the surface with a damp sponge, but do not wash the mixture out of the seams. The sponge must be clean, so you must constantly dip it in a container of warm water.

When it starts to appear on the cladding white coating, you need to wash it thoroughly again with a clean cloth.

Conclusion

Do-it-yourself bathroom tile installation is complete. All that remains is to install the socket under washing machine, faucets, shower holder, coat hooks, heated towel rail, cabinet with sink and shelves for hygiene items.

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How to lay tiles in the bathroom efficiently and beautifully: practical advice that will be useful to you

And again, I greet you, dear readers. Today I plan to talk about how to lay bathroom tiles correctly without making common mistakes.

The topic is of considerable interest, since the decoration of bathroom premises places special demands not only on the selection of facing material, but also on the technology of its installation.

Features of laying ceramic tiles

The technology for laying ceramic facing material depends on factors such as the type of surface to be finished (walls, floors, slopes, window sills, etc.) and the type of materials used for rough finishing of the working surface ( cement plaster, gypsum plaster, drywall, others slab materials, floor screed, etc.).

Depending on the type of surface to be finished, floor or wall tiles are used, which differ in thickness, density and weight. For the floor, thick coatings with an anti-slip matte surface are selected, while such requirements are not imposed on wall cladding.

When buying inexpensive tiles, check the level of their evenness selectively right in the store. To do this, we place two tiles with their front surfaces facing each other and see if there is an uneven gap between them. If the surface is uneven, you should not buy such material, since getting a smooth surface will be difficult or impossible.

By the way, curvature front surface- This distinctive property facing materials domestic production costing up to 300 rubles per 1 m².

In accordance with the type of base on which the installation will be carried out, certain means for preparing the surface are selected, as well as certain types of glue, which may differ in the degree of subsequent hydrophobicity and adhesion.

It is clear that I described the features of the selection of materials superficially. If necessary, write in the comments, and I will talk about this in more detail in a separate article.

Now let's move on directly to how to lay tiles correctly so that they last a long time and do not fall off due to moisture and temperature changes. As an example, I’ll tell you about the most difficult case, namely wall cladding.

The bathroom is a room where there is always enough high humidity. To repair it, you should select Construction Materials, which are resistant to moisture and tolerate temperature fluctuations well. A fairly popular option for finishing a bathroom is laying tiles, which have numerous positive qualities. However, there is a problem - the process of installing it yourself is quite complicated. Therefore, in order to lay tiles in the bathroom, you should first study all stages of the work and watch the video tutorial.

Tile – advantages and choice

In addition to the fact that the material has an attractive appearance And provides excellent waterproofing, it has many other advantages.

Advantages and disadvantages of tiles

  • Long service life.
  • Environmental friendliness.
  • Fire safety.
  • Moisture resistance.
  • High strength.
  • Wear resistance.
  • Easy care.
  • Wide variety of textures and colors.
  • Resistance to aggressive chemical compounds.
  • Fairly low cost.
  • Slip resistance.

At large quantities positive characteristics, tiles have their own disadvantages:

  1. The material has high thermal conductivity, so a floor made of tiles is almost always cold.
  2. The tile has a high degree of rigidity, as a result of which it is not suitable for decorating children's rooms.
  3. During delivery and installation of tiles, there may be defects (chips, cracks).

How to choose the right tiles for the bathroom

Having decided on the color and pattern, when purchasing, you need to pay attention to characteristics and quality of tiles. All information about the material is on its packaging.

  • Floor tiles are indicated by a black foot on a white background.
  • Repeating the same icon means high level material.
  • The wall tile packaging features a hand.
  • The foot on the shaded background indicates the increased wear resistance of the tile.

To compensate for sometimes defective specimens and damage, you should purchase tiles with a reserve. To do this, to square meters coverage needs to be added ten percent.

To ensure that the purchased material is the same shade, you need to pay attention to the article number, the numbers and letters of which must match.

Decorative finishing is purchased individually.

Before you start laying tiles with your own hands, you should buy the necessary related materials and prepare your tools.

Along with tiles you will need to purchase:

Tools that will be needed during installation:

  • tile cutter;
  • plumb line;
  • putty knife;
  • Master OK.

Preparing the surface

Most better surface for laying tiles is brick or concrete. The old coating must be dismantled. The tiles are removed with a hammer drill. This work is quite long and dirty, so it requires patience. Putting ceramic material should be on a flat surface.

  • The verticality of the walls is checked using a plumb line. Even minor deviations need to be corrected.
  • The surfaces are leveled with a primer using a level, a beacon and a rule.
  • The floor in the bathroom needs to be screeded.
  • To protect against mildew and increase adhesion, smooth surfaces primed. Finishing material selected taking into account the specifics of the room.
  • According to the instructions on the packaging, the base is treated with two layers of synthetic waterproofing. This event is mandatory for rooms with high humidity.

After completing the preparatory work, you can begin laying the tiles.

Preparation of adhesive solution

Ready-made glue is needed wait a few minutes and start laying tiles.

How to lay tiles in the bathroom correctly. Stages of work

On a primed and dust-free surface you can start laying tiles.

DIY installation of tiles on walls

  • In order for the first row to be mounted evenly, a strip should be placed on the floor and leveled. The tiles must be glued along this strip.
  • To ensure the evenness of the next rows, vertical slats are nailed into the corners of the bathroom, into which nails are driven and threads are pulled. This will allow you to monitor the horizontal evenness of the laid material during the work.
  • Using a notched trowel, glue is first applied to the underside of the ceramic product and then to the wall.
  • The tile is applied to the surface and pressed lightly. The glue should be distributed evenly.
  • Adjacent tiles are glued in the same way, with crosses inserted between them.
  • The thickness of the seam should be from three to four millimeters.
  • If a whole tile does not fit on the wall, then its excess is cut off with a tile cutter. It is recommended to glue the cut parts of the tiles in the corners, which will subsequently close washing machine, shower cabin or lockers.
  • If a bathtub is already installed in the bathroom, then a guide corner is glued to its surface that is in contact with the wall. Subsequently, the seams between it, the tile and the bathtub will need to be filled with colorless silicone.
  • The evenness of the installation should be constantly checked vertically, horizontally and diagonally.
  • After gluing each tile, the protruding excess glue is carefully removed, and the surface is wiped with a dry cloth.

After the glue has hardened between the seams, crosses are removed.

How to cut ceramic products correctly

You need to learn how to perform this operation correctly, since during installation need for cutting occurs quite often.

  • The tiles are soaked in water for about forty minutes.
  • Using a marker, mark the cutting line.
  • The tiles are laid on hard surface and along the marked line from the far corner towards you, a tile cutter makes a cut.
  • The tile is placed on the table so that the cut line is at its edge.
  • The part of the product lying on the table is held with one hand, and with the other hand you should gently press on the part located on the weight.
  • To make the cut line less sharp, it can be sharpened on a corundum block.

How to lay tiles on a bathroom floor

On a horizontal surface It is easier to install ceramic products - they will not “run away”.

  • Planning the installation starts from the highest point of the floor. The least amount of glue is applied to it. In other places, layers of adhesive mass will be applied in a thicker layer for leveling.
  • Laying should begin from the most visible wall, which is located at front door. This is due to the fact that poorly cut tiles will be glued to the opposite wall, covered by furniture.
  • To ensure that the tiles are evenly positioned throughout the entire area of ​​the room, including in the corners, beacons are placed according to the level. The distance between them must be less than the length of the rule or level. Tiles can be temporarily glued as beacons.
  • Glue is applied to the surface of the ceramic product, the tiles are laid on the floor and tapped with a hammer to the level of the stretched thread. If the tile has sunk lower, it should be torn off and more adhesive added.

Once the work is completed, you will not be able to walk in the bathroom for 24 hours.

How to tile around obstacles correctly

Often, when installing tiles in the bathroom, you have to deal with pipes, door frames, thresholds, sockets. In order for the surfaces to look beautiful after repair, these obstacles should be properly circumvented.

Installing tiles around a large pipe.

If the ceramic product will only fit at one angle on the pipe, then a curved cut is made.

  • A thick sheet of paper is placed in place.
  • All excess is folded over and the paper is cut along the resulting lines.
  • The result is a template for cutting.

Laying around switches.

  • The product is applied to the switch and the excess places are marked with a marker.
  • Trimming is done along the marked lines and a place for the switch is cut out.
  • By applying it to the switch, the accuracy of the work done is checked.

Mounting around a difficult obstacle.

An obstacle is considered difficult if several products fall on the hole. In this case, each sector should be marked in a specific place. This must be done with all the tiles that fall on this obstacle. Holes in ceramic products cut using a special drill.

Grouting joints

  • To prepare the grout, the dry powder should be diluted with water and allowed to brew.
  • The grout is rubbed into the seams using a rubber spatula.
  • After the mixture begins to harden, the surface must be wiped with a cloth until it shines.
  • It is recommended that you inspect each seam to ensure there is no excess or pitting.
  • In order for the seam to be perfect, you can tap a piece of wire onto it with a hammer, the diameter of which should be slightly larger than the width of the seam.

High-quality grout will give the surface a finished and aesthetic appearance.

By following all the tips and watching the video instructions, you can lay high-quality tiles in the bathroom with your own hands and enjoy their appearance for many years.

In order for the cladding to look perfect and not crack or collapse in the first year after repair, you need to properly prepare the base.


Material calculation

To purchase required quantity elements, you can come to the store, name the area of ​​the bathroom and the seller will tell you how much you need to buy. But it would be better to calculate the materials yourself; when calculating, it is worth taking into account some more points:

  • installation technique and option: type of seam and its width;
  • possible fight that occurs when figure cutting or drilling holes;
  • fugue color;
  • calculate the total amount and add 15% for losses;
  • On average, a bag is consumed for four squares of surface glue mixture and 1 kg of grout.

Subtleties of choosing tiles

The surface is prepared, the estimate is ready. Now you can go to the store for ceramics.

Here are some tips for choosing quality tiles.

  1. The packaging of the tile products is marked with the batch number. When purchasing a product from several batches, you may end up with a discrepancy in the tone of the ceramics.
  2. Inspect the tiles: no chips, sagging or bubbles are allowed.
  3. All purchased ceramics must be the same size, otherwise it will not be possible to lay out even seams.
  4. Take two tiles and put them together internal parties. The geometry of the first grade tiles must match perfectly. Usually such products are transferred wax paper or apply wax to protect against scratches during transportation.
  5. Stack the tiles right sides. There should be no gap between products. The permissible gap for grades 2 and 3 is no more than 1 mm. More - marriage.

Advice. Do not buy tiles with traces of a marker on them - this is how defects are marked in production.

Horizontal marking

If you first arranged a high-quality finished floor, then the tiles of the first horizontal row can be tied to floor covering. This is an ideal situation. The tiles are placed directly on the floor with a certain gap. But this option is often not feasible for a number of reasons:

  • the floor is not rebuilt, but only the walls are tiled. In addition, the floor is rarely made strictly horizontally;
  • There are communications lines near the floor that need to be circumvented.

First, calculate the number of tiles that will be included in the vertical row. Often you have to raise or, conversely, lower the line of the supporting row so that the whole ceramic fits under the ceiling with a small gap (about 5 mm). Otherwise, you may encounter a situation where there remains a distance of 2 cm under the ceiling, where you need to squeeze a strip of cut tiles. This is not easy to do and general form It won't be so great.

The fitting begins from the ceiling, marking the horizontal elements, taking into account the seams. Going down, note the level of the second row. The remaining distance will be left to adjust the tile to size. This way, all the cut tiles will be near the floor and will not spoil the appearance of the bathroom.

At the level of the second row, make a mark on each wall using a level. Connected together. Now a profile is mounted on the drawn line, which will support the laid out row.

Advice. It is better to use a profile for assembly as a support bar plasterboard structures. It is perfectly flat and simply mounted to the wall, which cannot be said about wooden slats.

Vertical marking

Rows perpendicular to the floor are tried on individually for each wall. Calculate the number of tiles included in a horizontal row along with the seams. In most cases, it turns out that the tiles need to be cut. A thin stripe in the corner doesn't look very nice, but you can get around it by using a little trick:

  • move the tiles in the row so that tiles of the same width meet in the corners. The tiles will be positioned symmetrically, the wall will look harmonious. Decorative elements, if they are intended to be used, they will also look good;
  • Another way is to place the vertical trim row in the least conspicuous place: in the corner that will be covered by the shower stall.

Having finished with the calculation and fitting, mark the vertical lines in the corners according to the level where the uncut row will be located. The result will be a drawn rectangle that will serve as a guide. This way you will not deviate from the vertical and horizontal axis when laying ceramics.

Ceramic laying technology

Having prepared the markings, you can apply the tile adhesive and begin facing works. The glue is applied with a trowel and leveled with a notched trowel to the height of the “tooth”. Unevenness is corrected with a rubber hammer. The horizontal will be provided by the nailed profile, and the vertical will be checked by a level during the installation process. In general, the sequence of work is as follows:

  • A layer of glue is applied to the wall and tiles. The ceramics are first leaned against the profile and then pressed against the wall. There is no need to press hard. Using light movements, slightly rotate the tile so that it grips firmly to the wall. Please note that you should immediately try to place the element correctly, since taking it away will be too problematic. You can slightly adjust the position by moving it to the side and pressing it with a rubber hammer. You cannot press the tile with such force that the mortar protrudes; the gaps between the elements must be as clean as possible. After the cladding has dried, the seams are filled with grout;

  • lay out the first horizontal strip;
  • crosses are inserted between the tiles so that the seam is the same width;
  • After laying the first few tiles, check the plane with a level: there should be no gaps between the tool and the tile. Adjust with a hammer;
  • lay all the tiles, except those that require trimming, they are laid at the very last line;
  • when the laying of the first row is finished, check the horizontal and vertical, as well as the plane of the masonry;
  • use a tile cutter or grinder to cut strips that are laid in the corners;
  • with an experienced hand, glue can be applied to the wall for several tiles at once, which are laid immediately, and then crosses are inserted between them. The level is adjusted to the general row;
  • if you decide to take a break, then first remove the mortar along the edges of the ceramics and in the areas that are left for the cut ceramics, otherwise you will have to beat it off later, and this may affect the laid ceramics, affecting the strength of adhesion to the wall;
  • After the cladding has completely dried and all crosses have been removed, begin applying grout. When using a silicone or epoxy fugue, the edges of the ceramic are glued masking tape. Cement does not require such scrupulousness. Apply the grout to the seams with a rubber spatula, pressing lightly without creating bubbles or voids. We rub all the vertical seams, and only then the horizontal seams. When the mixture has set slightly, you need to smooth out the seam with a joint, deepening it a little. Excess material is removed with a damp sponge.

Laying tiles is not a quick process and is quite painstaking; it requires attention and accuracy. Doing it yourself will not only allow you to make high-quality cladding, save money on the tiler’s work, but most importantly, enjoy the work done.

Wall tiling: video