Beautiful, stylish, original... many more adjectives can be chosen while admiring the beautiful two-level plasterboard ceiling. This is precisely the unusual design of these ceilings. The fact is that each ceiling looks different.
And the more imagination you show when developing sketches of the ceiling, the brighter it will characterize you and decorate the hall, bedroom, living room or kitchen.
At first glance, it seems that only a tandem of a designer plus professional builders can create such beauty. But no, to install gypsum board ceilings you don’t need to finish art school, have higher education majoring in construction. No need for a kit special tools. You just need to have an idea of what kind of ceiling you want to make and get. And also get a little creative. The rest is a matter of technique.
Despite the fact that visually all ceilings are different, the final decoration and good design. Some are more concerned about the design, while others are more concerned about the design, although these processes can be connected, complementing each other.
The technology for installing a two-level plasterboard ceiling is identical for each type (single-level, multi-level). And to make it easier for a beginner, this article will provide step by step instructions- how to install 2-level plasterboard ceilings. But first, a little theory...
First of all, there are several important points to consider:
Advice.
If you have a perfectly flat ceiling, then you can mount the second level of the frame directly on it. This way you will save space.
You can purchase lamps of any power. Plasterboard systems do not impose any restrictions on your choice. Such as, stretch ceiling or plastic, where there is a danger of using powerful lighting devices (can lead to deformation and even fire).
Advice.
To protect drywall from moisture, a primer is used in several layers.
(single-level, two-level and multi-level)
This selection is needed so that you can calculate and know exactly what to buy, what this or that element looks like, and for what purpose it is used. We hope that thanks to this detailed description you won’t buy too much and save money and nerves.
As a rule, ceiling plasterboard is used. Its thickness is 9.5 mm.
For the second tier, which does not have lamps and sidewalls, you can use arched plasterboard. Its thickness is 6 mm.
Designed for splicing two CD profiles.
The profile is attached to it to the ceiling.
Used when the length of the direct suspension is not enough for installation. That is, the second level of the ceiling is lowered too low.
For connecting CD profiles at different levels.
Advice. When installing, try to reduce the number of extensions of this type of profile.
Designed to connect CD profiles at the same level.
Advice.
Crab can be substituted. How to do this can be seen in the photo.
Its purpose is to connect the CD profile perpendicularly and at the same level.
The choice depends on the material from which the walls and ceiling are made.
Self-tapping screw "flea" Self-tapping screws for metal 3.5 by 9.5 mm. - “flea”.
Serpyanka tape (self-adhesive)
For gluing seams or interlining for completely covering the ceiling.
(ceiling, spot, halogen or LED).
Advice. The wiring for the lamps is started before the plasterboard work begins.
Knowing what you want to see on the ceiling will ultimately make it much easier for you to calculate the material and work.
Before making ceiling drawings, familiarize yourself with what types of two-level plasterboard ceilings exist.
The first method is to install a second level without installing the first. Used if you have an ideal ceiling surface. And the lamp is supposed to be placed in the frame.
The approach is the same. But the lamps are also mounted on the side of the frame.
Installation of two frames. The lamps are mounted in the second of them.
The installation approach is the same. But the lamps are also located around the perimeter of the second tier.
Similar approach. But for side lamps, instead of a frame, a polypropylene profile is provided, which is glued to the second-level frame using putty.
Using one of the presented basic types of installation, you can easily create sketches of a two-level ceiling that will appeal to all family members.
It should be noted that there is disagreement among professionals about the order in which the tiers should be installed. There are two ways.
We will talk in more detail about the first option for installing a two-level ceiling. This will give you basic information about installation. The second option, more complex, will be described below and illustrated in the photo.
We make a two-level plasterboard ceiling consistently and in accordance with the instructions, then the work will be done efficiently.
Finishing the ceiling is not like screwing in a light bulb - you can't do without removing the furniture.
Clear out the room and the approaches to it, this will make installation easier. It is important to prepare the surface itself. Agree, it’s better to do something free space rather than constantly bending around, cutting off, and washing off any leftovers. All loose plaster should be removed. Some craftsmen leave it, but everything that doesn’t hold up well will sooner or later fall away.
To do this you need to take the following steps:
- measure the height of the corners in the room;
Determine the angle with the smallest height.
It will serve as a starting point for marking. After all, we need the structure to be level relative to the horizontal;
- make markings.
On the walls for the profiles we mark a straight line. We place dots on the ceiling for direct hanging. There is no need for extra markup; it will only confuse. For these purposes, it is convenient to use a laser level or a water level.
Advice. You can make a water level of the required length yourself using a nylon hose (for example, from a medical dropper) with a diameter of 10-15 mm. and filling it with water.
It may happen that in your room not only the angles are different, but also the length of the opposite sides. In this case, try to level it horizontally first. And then draw a clear pattern on the ceiling and level the structure around the edges. This way you can visually center the ceiling.
They are guides and are mounted on the wall, along the perimeter of the entire structure. Fastening pitch - 600 mm. And also on the ceiling.
The method of connecting the profile on the wall and in the corner is shown in the photo (right and left, respectively).
If you plan to form rounded elements, you need to draw a picture on the wall and attach the UD profile to it. But first, you need to make notches on the profile.
And fasten it along the line drawn on the ceiling.
At the same time, we maintain a fastening pitch of 600 mm.
If your ceiling surface is ideal, then you can skip this step. And start right away with the installation of the second level.
The resulting frame will look like the one shown in the diagram and photo.
The use of crabs will give rigidity to the frame.
Advice.
Where the sheet was cut, a chamfer must be provided. To do this, use a knife to cut off part of the material from the sheet of drywall.
This is necessary so that the putty fits better on the seam. And the seam did not come apart over time.
To do this, we draw lines on the wall for the UD profile, and on the ceiling we draw the future drawing.
Having a diagram on the ceiling will not only simplify the installation process, but will also help you understand what your structure will look like after the work is completed. And, therefore, you will have the opportunity to make the necessary adjustments.
We install a ceiling frame from metal profile(UD-profile), fixing on the wall and ceiling.
We already know how to make a frame of the desired shape (round the profile).
Material prepared for the website www.site
To do this you need:
As a result, you should end up with a side frame like this.
Then follows:
You got it ready metal carcass. After which, it should be covered with plasterboard and proceed to finishing work.
Advice. When assembling the frame, look at the drawings. Otherwise, it may happen that the jumper will be placed in the place of the future lamp.
The photo and picture show how to bend drywall for an arch and how the CD profile and sheet of drywall should be prepared.
Their device is very simple; it is important to correctly make notches on the sheet without cutting through the front layer of cardboard.
If possible, cut right size From the whole sheet the question can be solved easily. If not, cut out the segments and install them in parts.
It should be noted that in this case the frame must be stiffer. Because each self-tapping screw is screwed into the profile.
The result of your efforts should look something like what is shown in the photo.
We sew the seams with sickle tape.
Apply a little putty to the tape with a small spatula.
Anton Tsugunov
Reading time: 4 minutes
The ceiling is the most noticeable part of the interior of the room. Its slightest shortcomings immediately catch the eye, so you should approach the decoration of this part of the room with particular care. The originality of the design will help in creating a unique ambiance of the room, therefore Lately Two-level plasterboard ceilings with lighting are becoming increasingly popular.
At first glance, such designs can only be done by a team of professionals working under the guidance experienced designer. But two-tier ceilings created using plasterboard, photos of which you can see below, can be done with your own hands. To install them, you don’t need any special skills or tools; you just need to be very careful and use a few general recommendations.
The average cost of installation of a two-level ceiling without finishing is 600–700 rubles/m2 in Moscow and St. Petersburg, and for St. Petersburg this is rather the lower price level; in the capital there are chances to find more budget offers.
The cost of lighting will depend on the type and number of lamps used, approximate price installation and connection of one device – 400 rubles.
When making a double ceiling, we will use the standard list of materials used when installing gypsum boards:
The tools you will need are the simplest:
Before you figure out how to make a two-level plasterboard ceiling, you need to decide on its design. And this is very difficult. Just look at the photo to see how many options you can consider. In technical terms, depending on the location of the levels, two can be distinguished:
The second option is preferable when the ceiling layer must hide various communications underneath. It also frees you from many labor-intensive operations, reducing work on preparing the base area to a minimum.
The most common are two-level ceilings in the form of borders or projections located around the perimeter of the room. In this design, it is convenient to place lighting in them, various options which are shown in the photo.
Having measured the height of the second level, a line for attaching the guide profile is drawn on the wall around the perimeter of the room. It is better to use a spirit level or laser level. A drawing of future borders is transferred to the ceiling surface, and the location of future lintels and places for attaching hangers are marked in 600 mm increments.
You can do it even simpler and screw the strips of drywall that form the end of the border directly to the ceiling profile. Then the bottom guide will be attached to the drywall. But it’s better to make jumpers anyway - they will give the frame the necessary rigidity.
At the stage of assembling the frame, before installing the horizontal jumpers, it is most convenient to carry out all the work related to the installation and connection of lamps. Fiddling with the wiring when the frame is fully assembled is not always convenient, and there is a high probability of “knocking down” the level ceiling with a careless movement.
It is advisable that the places where the horizontal and vertical jumpers are attached do not coincide. After all, it is along these profiles that the pieces of drywall will be joined. Spaced connections will reduce the gaps between individual elements.
The result should be a fairly strong frame for the future second level of the ceiling, for example, as in the photo.
After completing the installation of the frame, all that remains is to cut the sheets of drywall to size and attach them to the profiles with self-tapping screws. The fastening step is 15–25 cm.
Drywall often needs to be bent to create curved surfaces. To do this, one of its sides is moistened with water using a sponge and rolled with a needle roller, after which it is carefully bent. If it is necessary to create a strong bend, in addition to wetting, shallow cuts can be made on one side at regular intervals. They will help to achieve the required radius of curvature.
Smooth surfaces are already going out of fashion today, and more and more often owners are wondering how to make a two-level ceiling from a plasterboard sheet, arranging hidden lighting on it.
If the standard solution, when the ceiling is an ideal plane, does not suit you, you need to use one already invented by someone unusual design, or create something of your own. In the first case, it will be easier for you, since most often you can find a diagram for assembling profiles for drywall and calculating the required number of sheets. However, the second option is attractive because upon successful completion of the work you will become the owner of a unique design.
Before you make a two-level ceiling, decide how it will fit into the design of the room. An additional level can serve for various tasks, for example, as a room zoning, and, of course, for placing additional lighting points. As a rule, they consist of a base, which can be either the ceiling itself with a perfectly smooth surface, or cladding with dry plaster, as well as a box in which the lighting is mounted.
There are two types of securing the entire structure. The first option is rigid fixation, when in addition to the main leveling layer, the second tier is also attached to the walls. Flaw this method is that during earthquakes the frame can deform, which will lead to displacement and cracking of the skin. The second type is a floating structure, without a rigid connection to the walls. Being strong in itself, it will only sway slightly during earthquake tremors, without disturbing the casing.
The manufacture of a structure in several tiers differs from standard leveling plasterboard sheathing only in the complexity of the frame. This must be taken into account and not immediately take on unusual design ideas, but try your hand at making a ceiling with a fairly simple geometry. Wavy, curved lines are considered the most difficult to implement; it is easier to work with rectangular shapes. Let's consider the principle of installation on standard solution box located around the perimeter of the room.
We select the distance from the ceiling at which the lower level (more distant from the floor) will be located, place markers on the wall and mark a line along them with a coated cord.
Since the second tier in our project will become part of a box that goes around the perimeter of the ceiling, we determine in advance where the end of the structure will be located, facing the center of the room. We beat off a line along the markings, along which we in turn attach the guides. Thus, we have two rectangles of profiles available: one along the wall, the second a little higher, along the ceiling.
Behind the ceiling guides on the wall side we attach hangers to the ceiling, after which we mount jumpers to them and the wall guides so that they reach exactly to ceiling profiles. To do this, we pull a cord under the latter, along which we will orient the scraps of the aluminum U-shaped profile of the appropriate length.
After all the jumpers are fixed to the suspensions, we mount guides on them exactly along the ceiling profiles.
To do this, we use a plumb line or a laser level; you can also navigate using a previously stretched cord.
The main thing is that the ceiling and bottom profiles are in the same vertical plane.
Two guides located one above the other form the basis for the end of the box, which will cover the perimeter of the room and at the same time become back wall niches, after the formation of the last one. We need to cut several strips from a sheet of drywall, the width of which will be the distance from the ceiling to the edge of the lower profile.
We use self-tapping screws to secure the prepared fragments of dry plaster along the entire inner end of the frame.
Directly on the fixed strips of drywall, we mark the position of the profiles under the upper level and use the markers to mark the lines with coated thread.
Then, according to the markings made, we attach the guides, measuring along the long sides of the structure 60-centimeter sections for the profiles that will be installed at the specified pitch.
The next marking can be done either with a pencil directly on the ceiling, or with the help of a cord attached to self-tapping screws screwed into the strips of drywall.
We cut the metal profiles along the length of the short side of the internal end cladding of the structure, and then insert them into the guides along the cords or drawn lines, securing them to the ceiling with direct hangers.
We estimate the location of the sheets of dry plaster on the upper level, for which it can be useful, and at the places of their joints we install jumpers between the base profiles.
We fasten the drywall to the guides, screwing in the screws at the joints in a checkerboard pattern. Also, fastening elements must be used in the center of each sheet, the width of which is 120 centimeters, that is, fastening to the intermediate profile.
We carefully putty everything corner connections sheets of drywall, processing edges and joints.
We smooth out the putty coating as much as possible, when it dries, we rub it with fine sandpaper. In other words, we prepare the above areas in advance for painting or another type of finishing.
We mount the drywall on the lower level guides so that the edges of the sheet fragments extend 10-15 centimeters beyond the end of the box.
It is at this stage, before you finally assemble the two-level ceiling with your own hands, that it is advisable to install lighting points by attaching lamps to the end trim. However, you can go the simple route by using an LED strip placed in a niche. Having decided in favor of the second option, we simply sheathe the frame, forming a second level and a niche by removing sheets of dry plaster. All protrusions that make up the shelf must be at the same level.
Pin your profile
It is behind it that you can hide the LED strip or other lighting sources. We screw narrow strips of drywall to the guides, trying to completely hide the aluminum profiles.
All trims made for dry plaster cladding must be the same width. Next, you can begin puttying work.
Attention! The width of the light strip provided by hidden lighting sources, as well as its intensity and brightness, directly depends on the depth of the niche and the height of the side.
As a rule, when there is a desire to arrange additional lighting after the ceiling is covered with plasterboard, light sources such as soffits are used. They are convenient because they can be directed to any point in the room, especially if they are placed in the corners. However, if the installation of two-level ceilings is yet to be done, you can take care of other lighting options.
In particular, point lighting sources are very interesting, the modifications of which differ great variety. But, due to the fact that the lamp in a niche is usually hidden from prying eyes, you don’t have to go to great lengths to select the most beautiful spotlight. Can be installed in a niche and soffit. A completely different matter is an LED strip, which is a set of tiny light sources on a flexible base. There are also diodes enclosed in a transparent tubular shell. Most suitable option It is better to choose before building a two-level ceiling in order to connect the devices to the electrical network during the installation process.
Indoor renovations don't come without costing time, money, and headaches. The ceiling is important detail finishing works. The two-tier ceiling has several variations, one of the more affordable and aesthetically attractive is multi-level ceiling made of plasterboard with lighting - it will be the main accent of the room. There is also a plus in the low installation time, and the process itself takes place without a lot of debris and dirt. The most important thing is freedom for the artist, you can choose absolutely different shapes and colors, and also ensures water resistance in the event of a flood from neighbors. Even if such a nuisance occurs, you just need to drain the water from the structure, preferably with the help of a specialist. If during work there are unevenness, cracks and other incidents finishing will mask all imperfections
The only disadvantage can be considered the dust emitted upon contact with human health, which is harmful to human health. plasterboard sheets. In general, the double ceiling will look very impressive and will become the main decoration of the interior, and a backlit solution will add sophistication.
What is this article about?
If the main ceiling has perfect view and the absence of unevenness, and you just need to divide the rooms into zones and hide the cables - then in central block or the box is installed around the perimeter with an island. In the case of an uneven ceiling surface, the method of installing 2 plasterboard tiers is suitable. Initially, the base area is set plasterboard ceiling, and the parts of the next level need to be hemmed under the original frame. Or attach a guide profile for the main surface of the ceiling to the side of the mounted box. Also, the second level box can be oval or round; in general, you can choose any shape to suit your imagination. The final finish should look something like this.
Before work, existing chandeliers are removed, and if there are large irregularities, they must be eliminated. To start work on the ceiling, there must be a design project, a small copy of the ceiling on paper, in which, in addition to appearance There must also be diagrams for the placement of lamps, and the location of the curtains must also be taken into account. It is very important to respect the ceiling proportions and scale. Lined paper is ideal for a sketch; this will be a lightweight option for transferring reference points - the starting points of the contours of bends or corners, from which the rest of the details and elements of the ceiling will actually begin to be built.
It’s worth picking up all the necessary tools in advance:
You can look at the cost diagram for 1 sq.m. and calculate it for your perimeter.
It's worth your time important stage Special attention, and do everything carefully. It is necessary to set aside the distance from the lowest corner, moving down, the distance should correspond to the distance to the lowest level of the ceiling.
Using a water level, transfer the mark to all existing internal and external corners rooms and use the upholstery to draw lines between them.
Rub the cord with dark powder and beat it diagonally. Mark the center of the room, compensating for any unevenness in the ceiling and walls. Draw lines longitudinal to the hidden edges of the second tier. Draw a grid for suspensions of the 1st tier in the inner perimeter of the boxes, that is, place marks - each 50 cm from each other along the longitudinal boundaries of the return two lines. On the remaining lines, place points 60 cm apart. There should be a right angle at the intersection of all lines.
An ideal solution for marking would be a laser projector; it is easy to use - placing it in the middle of the room, a 600 mm grid structure is installed, and the resulting grid can be immediately drawn on the surface. Next, you need to drive self-tapping screws into the base ceiling in the center of the circles; they are outlined using a pencil along the slats with the required length. A cardboard template is also prepared in advance to draw out the curved elements.
Lighting in the ceiling is part of the decoration, giving an elegant look and an interesting detail, but it cannot be considered as lighting on its own, since it will not give the desired lighting effect. Central lighting in the form of luminaires and lamps should be taken care of separately. The most popular lighting sources for backlighting include neon tubes, LED strips and duralight. The last two are LEDs mounted one behind the other. Their plus is the power supply - 12 V or 24 V. You can also choose tapes with a monochrome glow of red, blue, green or white. They are usually referred to as SMD or RGB all-rounders. Station wagons can change color; monochrome ones have only one color. RGB work with the controller and remote control.
LED lamps are divided into the following types: regular, moisture-proof, and moisture-resistant. Conventional ones are only suitable for dry rooms, as they come without protective coating. Waterproof have a varnished surface, suitable for wet rooms. Moisture resistant sealed in polymer pipe or housings, it is better to use them in objects with high moisture - aquariums, swimming pools, etc. So the type of lamps is selected according to the type of room. pros LED lamps in economically low energy consumption, durability, ease of installation, reasonable price and resistance to overheating.
Neon tubes are filled with a mixture of inert and luminous gases. Their brightness depends on the current strength regulated by the convector
Their power is greater - 100 V, installation takes place every 5 m. And also a lot of electricity will be required to install transformers, since neon does not have enough normal voltage. Compared to neon tubes, neon cords look much more advantageous. Powered by AA batteries and a controller included in pairs - these are the main advantages. But the lack of power does not allow them to illuminate independently, so it is better to use them in conjunction with LEDs, or to illuminate some interior details.
I would like to immediately show a video explaining this process in detail:
You will need a couple of profiles - UD and CD. UD is a guide profile mounted both on the wall and on the ceiling, as well as at the fastening point of the side, if it is present in the center of the structure. CD is a more rigid, load-bearing profile from which the lintels and racks are created; the plasterboard sheet is attached to them.
In the photo shown, the gypsum board holds the suspension due to its rigidity, so the shelf does not have any support as such.
In such cases, the weight of the lighting equipment is taken into account.
There is another type of design. Here the elongated crossbars hold the extension of the shelf. This design will require more supporting profile, and in terms of reliability it will be much stronger.
To assemble the box, you need to secure the guide profiles along the contours on the wall, the internal boundaries of the second tier and along the ceiling. Next, cut out pieces of the CD profile with a small “sponge” on one side; this must be done by measuring the distance from the profile on the ceiling to the level of the contours on the walls, and subtract about one and a half centimeters from this. Insert the resulting pieces into the profile, screwing approximately every 50 cm.
Screw the guide profile to the “sponge”, the sharp part of which is turned towards the wall, along the bottom of the suspended profiles so that the guides are connected by pieces of the supporting profile. Then you need to cut the CD profile to the required length and insert it into the guides, then screw it on. Cover the side edge of the frame with plasterboard material. Do the same with the bottom plane. The work with the boxes is completed. When working with boxes, it is worth considering in advance the installation points of the lamps and the location of the wires. To make the frame more rigid and the sheet firmly fixed, then the middle of the pieces of the supporting profile is fixed on a suspension, or when the box is more than 50 cm wide.
Fix the plasterboard sheets in the center by hanging corners and crosses. Make a skeleton to which the drywall will be attached. Such fittings can be used for profile ties.
Installation is carried out according to this principle - fastening the profiles to each other during plasterboard installation, and to the ceiling. With the legs down and in a top-down position, screw the U-shaped profile where the drywall lies perpendicular to the ceiling surface. Insert and secure the lowering rates into the groove of the profile, then secure U-shaped profile the same as in the previous case, but the legs should be directed towards the wall, and where the lower profile wall insert is cut to the highest shelf of the P - letter, and curved upward, the lower profile is fixed.
Then it is fixed around the perimeter of the P-profile, the legs should be away from the wall.
Then the lower level guides, which are necessary for drywall, are attached.
The gap between them should be about 50 cm.
Leave space when installing the skeleton to install the string in the opening for the cornice or curtain.
Then, using scissors, make artistic curves; to do this, cut out about 5 cm of the P-legs to the top shelf at equal intervals.
Attach the lower profile mesh to spare hangers.
Attach plasterboard sheets to the lowest level of the ceiling surface. Cut special openings for lamps.
Do the same by securing the plasterboard structure to the side rails. Then fasten the corners along the perpendicular edges low ceiling and the vertical inner wall. Putty the joints.
After drying, choose either putty or primer and paint the ceiling. Then the lamps are inserted into the holes under them and the strings are pulled under the curtains. The finish is to paint the ceiling according to your choice and taste.
Assembling the ceiling with your own hands will not be difficult if you study everything in detail, and the double ceiling will become the main decoration of the room.
Two-level plasterboard ceilings are very popular in interior decoration due to their spectacular appearance and the possibility of installing hidden lighting. Today we will tell you how to create such a structure with your own hands.
Two-level ceiling structures It’s really possible to equip it even in rooms with a low floor-to-ceiling level. They undoubtedly fit perfectly into any room design and look especially impressive in combination with hidden lighting. They can be made with my own hands, without much experience and global labor costs.
So, if you decide to install a two-level ceiling yourself, draw up a preliminary work plan. Typically it includes:
Decide immediately on the lighting for your ceiling.
It could be:
The first option is suitable for arranging lighting when the ceiling is still at the installation stage. Wires for lamps, as well as power supplies and drivers for LED strips are located above suspended ceiling and are mounted in front of the casing. The second option is for those who already have finished design, but backlighting is not provided initially. The wires are mainly laid along the outer part and covered with a decorative cornice, like lighting fixtures.
Also decide on the shape and location of the second tier of the structure.
Finally, you just have to choose your lighting source. Most often, LED strips, flexible neon or duralight are used. We will focus on LED strip, as the most popular option.
So, let's look at the advantages of this type of lighting:
Please note before purchasing individual characteristics different tapes:
There is nothing complicated about installing a two-tier ceiling with a niche. If you want to build such a structure, follow the simple steps step-by-step instructions. Please note that saving on materials is strictly not recommended. The strength and uniformity of the entire surface depends on their quality.
For work you will need the following materials:
Tools:
First of all, prepare the surface and the room itself. To do this, remove all furniture that gets dirty easily or will interfere with installation. Ideally, you should have a completely free room.
If you have expensive wall or floor coverings, cover them with thick plastic film to avoid inevitable clogging with installation dust, putty, and scratches.
Crumbling and fragile elements of the old ceiling covering, try to remove it.
Let's start the installation by arranging the first level frame. In some cases, when the ceiling does not require preliminary leveling, it is not necessary to construct it; you can immediately create a second tier.
The frame for the first level is no different from the frame for a regular single-level ceiling and is done as follows:
1. Mark horizontal lines around the perimeter using a level and a pencil along the lowest point of the surface difference.
2. Secure along the lines starting profiles PPN for dowels or self-tapping screws, corresponding to the purpose and surface material.
3. Every 50-60 cm, fix U-shaped suspensions (distancers) to the ceiling surface. The step between the rows of spacers is 40 cm.
4. Insert the PP profiles into the grooves of the guides and secure them to the legs of the suspensions using self-tapping screws with a 13 mm press washer, keeping the level in the longitudinal direction. Place the PP every 40 cm, at the location where the suspensions pass.
5. To add rigidity to the structure, cut jumpers from the PP profile and install them using special connectors - “crabs” between longitudinally running profiles.
6. The frame is ready. After making sure that it is even, cover it with gypsum plasterboard sheets using drywall screws.
When the first tier is ready, begin installing the second.
1. On the first tier of the gypsum board, draw the outermost line of the second, the shape that you yourself have previously chosen. Let's say this is an S-shaped line.
You will need to create 3 elements of this shape from the PP profile. To do this, take the profile and make notches on it every 3-5 cm, cutting 1 side and shelf with metal scissors. Then, carefully bending it along the cuts, fasten the resulting element to the ceiling according to the shape of the drawn line. Set aside the two remaining blanks; you will need them soon. You can use a special perforated profile for curved surfaces.
2. Screw jumpers from the profile to the S-shaped profile every 40 cm. Their length will indicate the height of the future 2 second level with an increase for drywall. Attach a second profile to them, bent in the same shape.
3. Mark the line of passage of the starting elements on the wall exactly at the level of the lower figured element of the tier. Secure the guides with the grooves facing outward with dowels or self-tapping screws (depending on the surface).
4. Fix the cut profile to the ceiling instead of hangers, with a step of 50 cm on the line and a distance between rows of 40 cm.
5. Screw longitudinal PP to them, previously inserted into the wall guides and lower shaped elements. Just like with the first tier, you should use “crabs” to add jumpers to strengthen the structure.
6. The frame is ready. Before the next step, route all the necessary wiring through it.
7. Now attach plasterboard sheets to the resulting frame, cut to a given shape with an offset of 10-12 cm.
8. Attach the third profile with notches that remains to you to the resulting protrusion, bending it in accordance with the existing curved line.
9. Cut strips of drywall the width of the mounted board and the gypsum board underneath it. Make notches on it, without touching the bottom layer of cardboard, every 5 cm. Very carefully, starting from the middle, fasten these strips to the sides, covering them.
10. Putty the surface according standard scheme puttying plasterboard structures.
11. Insert an LED strip into the resulting niche, in the side profile. Side reverse side you need to cover the gypsum board and stick the tape, but you can just carefully put it in it. So, if necessary, it can be quickly changed.
See how you can illuminate the ceiling using an RGB strip in the article: “LED strips for lighting: types, types, connection.”
If you already have a fully formed ceiling, and for some reason it is impossible to create a frame second tier, you can install a polystyrene foam cornice into which hidden lighting is placed.
The cornice is wide decorative element and can have a variety of shapes, but, in general, it is rarely fastened due to the low strength of the material and poor heat resistance.
Meanwhile, it is very easy to attach it to a surface previously treated with a primer, using liquid nails as an adhesive.
It can also be painted in almost any color.
Thus, you can create interesting design structures on the ceiling and not necessarily in the form given in the instructions. Following the basic principles of installation, it is quite possible to implement your own original ideas with hidden type lighting, open when instead LED strip Spotlights or combined ones are used.
